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SM A LP AGE AND SON, 

CaiJtors, 

MADDOX STREET, BOND STREET, 

LONDON, W. 

| LIBRARY OF CONGRESS.} 



W3| UNITED STATES OP AMERICA. JM 
UNITED STATES MAIL STEAMERS. 



LUGGAGE STORED AND FORWARDED. 



DR. J. COLLIS BROWNE'S 

CHLOEODYNE 

IS THE ORIGINAL AND ONLY GENUINE. 



The Public are CAUTIONED against the unfounded state- 
ments frequently made, "that the composition of CHLORO- 
DYNE is known to Chemists and the Medical Profession." 
The fact is, CHLORODYNE was Discovered and Invented by 
Dr. J. COLLIS BROWNE (ex- Army Medical Staff), and so 
named by him, and it has baffled all attempts at analysis by the. 
first Chemists of the day. The method and secret of the pre- 
paration* have never been published. It is obvious, therefore, 
that anything sold under the name, save Dr. T- COLLIS 
BROWNE'S CHLORODYNE, is a spurious imitation. 

CAUTION.— Vice-Chancellor Sir W. P. Wood stated that 
Dr. J. COLLIS BROWNE was undoubtedly the Inventor of 
CHLORODYNE. 

CHLORODYNE is admitted by the Profession to be the most 
wonderful and valuable remedy ever discovered. 

CHLORODYNE is the best remedy known for Coughs, Con- 
sumption, Bronchitis, Asthma. 

CHLORODYNE effectually checks and arrests those too often 
fatal diseases — Diphtheria, Fever, Croup, Ague. 

CHLORODYNE acts like a charm in Diarrhoea, and is the only 
specific in Cholera and Dysentery. 

CHLORODYNE effectually cuts short all attacks of Epilepsy, 
Hysteria, Palpitation, and Spasms. 

CHLORODYNE is the only palliative in Neuralgia, Rheumatism, 
Gout, Cancer, Toothache, Meningitis, etc. 

From Lord Franis Conyngham, Mount Charles, Donegal, December 
nth, 1868. 

"Lord Francis Conyngham — who this time last year bought some of Dr. 
J. Collis Browne's Chlorodyne from Mr. Davenport, and has found it a most 
wonderful medicine — will be glad to have half a dozen bottles sent at. once 
to the above address.'"' 

*** Earl Russell communicated to the College of Physicians that he had 
received a despatch from her Majesty's Consul at Manilla, to the effect that 
Cholera has been raging fearfullv, and that the ONLY remedy of any service 
was CHLORODYNE.— See Lancet, December 1, 1864. 

Sold in Bottles, at is. ijd., 2s. 9d., and 4s. 6d. each. None 
is genuine without the words '-'Dr. J. COLLIS BROWNE'S 
CHLORODYNE " on the Government Stamp. Overwhelming 
Medical Testimony accompanies each bottle. 

Sole Manufacturer, J. T. DAVENPGEiT, 
33, GREAT RUSSELL STREET, BLOOMSBURY. LONDON. 



GEORGE REES' 
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Covent Garden, 
Opposite Drury Lane Theatre ; and 



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town. Londonderry, and Belfast 

LONDON: NORTON AND SHAW, 

7, <■• ' Covent Garden, W.C., and E us ton Square, N.-W. 



A 



THE OFFICIAL 



GUIDE TO THE LONDON & NORTH-WESTERN 
RAILWAY, 



TO TOURISTS. 

The Editor will be glad to receive any notes or corrections that may be 
forwarded to him by Tourists making use of this Guide. These may be 
addressed to the care of the Publishers, London. 

TIME TABLES. 

Official. — London and North-Western Railway Company's detailed 
Monthly Time Table. Price id. This book contains 158 pages of valuable 
information upon every subject of interest and use to the Railway Traveller, 
including particulars of the fares to and from all the principal places in the 
United Kingdom and to the Continent. 

Bradshaw's General Railway and Steam Navigation Guide for Great 
Britain and Ireland. Monthly, price 6d. 

For Ireland— The Official Railway, Coach, Car, and Steam Navigation 
Guide. Monthly, 3d. 

For Scotland — Murray's Time Tables for the Railways, Steamers, and 
Coaches. Monthly, 3d. 

The above Time Tables may generally be obtained at the Railway 
Bookstalls. 







































STEPHENSON. 



THE OFFICIAL 

€fmmt% IJictaesqtte (Sulk 

TO THE 

LONDON k NORTH-WESTERN 
RAILWAY, 



AND OTHER RAILWAYS WITH WHICH IT IS 
IMMEDIATELY IN CONNECTION, 

EMBRACING INFORMATION RESPECTING 

TOURS IN ENGLAND, IRELAND, AND SCOTLAND. 

SPECIALLY PREPARED FOR THE USE 
OF AMERICAN TOURISTS. 

EDITED BY G. SHAW. 




LONDON: 
NORTON AND SHAW, 

7, GARRICK STREET, W.C., and EUSTON SQUARE, N.W., 

PUBLISHERS ON BEHALF OF THE 

LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN RAILWAY COMPANY; 

LIVERPOOL : 4, PARKER STREET ; 

and at DUBLIN Atm BELFAST, 

BOSTON, U.S.: 

ESTES AND LAURIAT, 143, Washington Street. 

TORONTO, CANADA: 
ADAM, STEVENSON, AND CO., Publishers. 

717 ' 



V 



-& 



« 



PREFACE. 



THE primary object in the preparation of this Guide has been 
to offer to the reader a concise, trustworthy, and, at the same 
time, portable companion to all places of remarkable interest 
within the limits of the British Islands, suitably embellished and 
enriched with numerous coloured plates and illustrative engravings, 
and a useful series of new and correct maps. A secondary object 
has been to use the elaborate network of the London and North- 
western Railway Company's lines in their numerous ramifications 
and connections to convey the traveller from place to place. 
Almost the entire country described in these pages has been 
personally traversed, and the information thus laboriously ac- 
quired used in the preparation of this work. In those few in- 
stances in which this has not been the case, the information has 
been sought from original sources, and used only when it might 
be with good reason considered reliable. 

A glance at the contents pages of this work will show the 
reader that by accepting this work as his Guide to the tourist 
districts of England, Scotland, Ireland, and Wales, he will be 
enabled to see every object of great interest or historic renown. 
In conducting the traveller his interests have been studied in 
recommending the shortest and most direct routes, and in those 
cases in which the London and North-Western Railway system 
offers a more circuitous approach, the author has unhesitatingly 
sacrificed the interests of the company to the convenience of the 
tourist in recommending a line, even when in direct opposition 
to that company. 

While this course has been adopted in the necessary cases, 
rather than make the work a mere advertisement of the 
London and North- Western Railway, it will be evident to the 
reader that this wide-reaching company offers unparalleled re- 
sources to the traveller who desires to visit the many romantic and 
beautiful districts which gem the island home of the English 
race, or those centres of industrial efforts and manufacturing 
activity for which England is famed. On no other line in Great 



PREFACE. 



Britain can the tourist see so many places of interest. By means 
of its own line, or those of other companies with which it has 
through-booking arrangements, it can offer the best and quickest 
routes between London, Birmingham, Manchester, and Liverpool 
to and from all parts of Scotland, Ireland, and Wales, possess- 
ing, as it does, the shortest sea-routes between England and 
Ireland. This will be yet more evident when it is considered 
that the London and North -Western Railway offers to the 
tourist the best and quickest routes to and from the following 
districts and towns : — 

The south-west of Ireland, including Killarney, Glengarriff, 
Cork, Queenstown, and the Blackwater. 

The west of Ireland, embracing Limerick, Kilkee, and thence 
by the coast to the Cliffs of Moher, Lisdoonvarna, Galway, 
Connemara, Achill, and Sligo. 

The north of Ireland : Lough Erne, Donegal Llighlands, 
Londonderry, Giant's Causeway, Lough Neagh, and Belfast. 

The east of Ireland : Newcastle, Carlingford Bay, Dundalk, 
Drogheda, Dublin, Wicklow and Wexford. 
North and South Wales. 

In Scotland : Moffat, Abottsford and Melrose, Edinburgh, 
Glasgow, Greenock, the Trosichs, Oban, Staffa, Iona, Caledo- 
nian Canal, Inverness, Isle of Skye, Aberdeen, Dundee, Perth, 
Highland Railway, and Stirling. 

In England : Carlisle, English Lakes, Lancaster, Preston, 
York, Scarborough, Harrogate, Leeds, Manchester, Liverpool, 
Chester, Buxton, Crewe, Shrewsbury, the Pottery Districts, 
Stafford, Derby, Lichfield, Woiverhapton, Birmingham, 
Leicester, Coventry, Kenilworth, Leamington, Warwick, 
Stratford-on-Avon, Rugby, Market Harborough, Stamford, 
Peterborough, Northampton, Cambridge, Oxford, Aylesbury, 
Watford, St. Albans, Harrow, and London. 

For the American tourist landing at the ports of call in 
Ireland, Queenstown and Londonderry, the London and North- 
western Railway Company have the best and quickest route to 
London and Liverpool and the other great towns in England. 
The journey between Liverpool and London, 200 miles, only 
occupies five hours. By this route tourists may visit Crewe, 
Shrewsbury, the Pottery Districts, Stafford, Derby, Lichfield, 
Wolverhampton, the Black Country, Birmingham, Coventry, 
Kenilworth, Warwick, Leamington, Stratford-on-Avon, Rugby, 
Peterborough, Cambridge, Oxford, and St. Albans. 

The London and North- Western Railway Company also 
book to all parts of the Continent from all their principal stations, 
and by the routes, mentioned on page 578, etc. 



PREFACE, 



Among the minor advantages of the present work is the light 
which it affords upon the internal working of this the most im- 
portant and wealthy of British railways, showing, as it does, the 
vast capital that lies buried in its permanent way, bridges, tunnels, 
rolling stock, and enormous constructing works at Crewe and 
elsewhere, and also the numerous ramifications of its interests 
and connections. In this connection it may be worthy of men- 
tion, that through the free access to important official documents 
which have been consulted in the preparation of this work, the 
public are put in possession of information never before published. 

And lastly — what will be an obvious characteristic — the ex- 
ceeding cheapness of this volume, comprising, as it does, in 
addition to a copious text, forty-eight coloured engravings, nu- 
merous wood engravings, and ten new maps. In no other work 
of the same class is so much given for so low a price. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

PAGE. 

History I 

Liverpool and Manchester Railway ..... 2 

London and Birmingham Railway ..... 3 

Manchester and Birmingham Railway .... 5 

List of Tunnels ........ 6 

Euston Station 8 

Board of Directors ........ 9 

Extent of the System 12 

List of Canals . . . . . . . . .13 

CHAPTER II. 

The Permanent Way 1 4 

List of Steam Vessels 18 

CHAPTER III. 

The Crewe Works 19 

CHAPTER IV. 

Carnage Department, Wolverton . . . . • 43 

Waggon Works, Earlestown Junction . . . 53 

CHAPTER V. 

Points, Signals, and Telegraphs . . . . • 54 

CHAPTER VI. 

Mail Department 63 

CHAPTER VII. 

Newspaper Department ....... 75 



CONTENTS, ix 

CHAPTER VIII. 

PAGE. 

Parcel Department .81 

Pneumatic Despatch Company 82 

Merchandise Department ....... ib. 

CHAPTER IX. 
Railway Clearing House . 85 



IRELAND, 

SECTION I. 

QUEENSTOWN TO DUBLIN 89 

EXCURSION I. 
Blarney Castle and St. Anne's Hill . . .96 

EXCURSION II. 
Youghal and the Blackwater 99 

EXCURSION III 
Cork to Killarney 109 

SECTION II. 

Killarney to Dublin, via Mallow and Limerick 
Junction 129 

SECTION III. 

Killarney to Galway, vid Limerick, Kilrush, Kil- 
kee, Cliffs of Moher, and Lisdoonvarna . .134 

SECTION IV. 

Dublin, via Maynooth, Mullingar, and Athlone, 
to Galway . 140 

SECTION V, 
Tour through Connemara 146 



CONTENTS, 



EXCURSION IV. 

PAGE. 

Westport to Athlone . . . . . .156 

EXCURSION V. 
Sligo to Mullingar • .156 

SECTION VI. 
From Sligo, via Bundoran, Lough Erne, and En- 

NISKILLEN, TO LONDONDERRY 157 

SECTION VII 

Londonderry to Portrush and Giant's Causeway, 
by Coast Road to Larne, and from the latter 
by rail to Belfast 159 

Londonderry to Belfast, via the Giant's Causeway 160 

EXCURSION VI. 
Direct from Portrush for Giant's Causeway, by 
Rail, via Antrim and Carrickfergus Junction . 168 

SECTION VIII 
Belfast to Newry, via Portadown . , . . 173 

EXCURSION VII 
Belfast to Newry, via Newcastle . . . .176 

SECTION IX. 

Newry to Dublin, via Dundalk, Greenore, and 
Drogheda 179 

SECTION X. 
Londonderry to Dublin, by direct line. . . 183 

SECTION XI 
Dublin 184 

Excursion to Howth, via Clontarf . . . .189 

SECTION XII. 
Two Days' Circular Tour through Wicklow . 190 



CONTENTS. 



NORTH WALES. 



[SECTION XIII. 

PAGE. 

From Dublin or Kingstown to Holyhead . . 200 

SECTION XIV. 

Holyhead to Chester, vid Bangor, Llandudno, 
Bettws-y-Coed, Rhyl, Corwen, Denbigh, and 
Holywell 203 

SECTION XV. 

Holyhead to Chester, via Bangor, Caernarvon, 
Llanberis, Afon-Wen, Portmadoc, Ffestiniog, 
Harlech, Barmouth, Aberystwith, Dolgelly, 
Bala, Corwen, Llangollen, Ruabon, and Wrex- 
ham .215 



ENGLAND. 

SECTION XVI. 
Chester to Liverpool, via Birkenhead , . , . 229 

SECTION XVII. 
Chester to Liverpool, via Runcorn . . . .231 

SECTION XVIII. 
Chester to Crewe 233 

SECTION XIX. 
Liverpool ......... 234 

EXCURSION VIII. 
Liverpool to New Brighton, Egremont, Etc. . 257 



xii CONTENTS. 



EXCURSION IX. 

PAGE. 

Liverpool to Eastham 25S 

SECTION XX. 

Liverpool to London, via Crewe, Stafford, Birming- 
ham, Coventry, Rugby, and Watford . . . 259 

EXCURSION X. 

Coventry to Kenilworth, Leamington, and War- 
wick 281 

SECTION XXI. 
Stafford to Rugby 289 

SECTION XXII 

Crewe to Stafford, via Burslem, Stoke-upon-Trext, 
Trentham, and Stone 291 

EXCURSION XI 
Etruria to Hanley ....,,. 293 

EXCURSION XII. 

Stoke-upon-Trent to Longton, and to Trentham 
Hall 294 

SECTION XXIII 

Birmingham to Dudley, Wednesbury, Wallsall, 
Lichfield, Burton-on-Trent, and Derby . . 296 

SECTION XXIV. 
Nuneaton to Leicester 304 

SECTION XXV. 
Rugby to Stamford 308 

SECTION XXVI 
Blisworth to Stratford-on-avon . . . . 310 



CONTENTS. xiii 

SECTION XXVII. 

PAGE. 

Blisworth, via Northampton, to Peterborough . 315 

SECTION XXVIII. 
Bletchley, via Bedford, to Cambridge . . .318 

SECTION XXIX. 
Bletchley to Oxford 323 

SECTION XXX. 

Bletchley, via Buckingham and Banbury, to Blis- 
worth 327 

SECTION XXXI. 
Leighton to Luton 328 

SECTION XXXII. 
Cheddington to Aylesbury 329 

SECTION XXXIII. 
Watford to St. Alban's 330 

SECTION XXXIV 
London 332 

EXCURSION XIII. 

To Kew, Richmond, Hampton Court, and Windsor 
Castle 355 

EXCURSION XIV. 
To Greenwich, Woolwich, and Gravesend . . 358 

EXCURSION XV 
To the Crystal Palace ...... 360 

SECTION XXXV 
Liverpool to Manchester 362 



CONTENTS. 



SECTION XX XVI 

PAGE. 

Manchester (London Road Station) to Buxton, 
Haddon Hall, Chatsworth, Matlock, and 
Derbyshire ; 378 

SECTION XXXVII 

Manchester (Victoria) to Leeds, Harrogate, York, 
and Scarborough 399 

SECTION XXXVIII. 
Manchester to Crewe 415 

SECTION XXXIX. 
Crewe to Oswestry and Shrewsbury . , . 416 

SECTION" XL. 
Whitchurch to Oswestry and Aberystwith . .418 

SECTION XLI. 
Stafford to Shrewsbury and Welshpool . .419 

SECTION XLI I. 
Shrewsbury to Hereford 420 

SECTION XLLLI. 

WOOFFERTON TO DROITWICH, lid TENBURY AND 

Bewdley 422 

SECTION XLLV. 

Hereford to Birmingham, via Malvern, Worcester, 
Droitwich, Kidderminster, and Stourbridge . 423 

SECTLON XLV. 
Crev\E, via Warrington, to the North . . .427 

SECTLON XLVL. 
Liverpool to Carlisle 430 

SECTION XLVLL. 
Preston to Lytham, Blackpool, and Fleetwood . 436 



CONTENTS. 



SECTION XLVIIL 

PAGE 

Lancaster to Morecambe, Furness Abbey, Etc. . 437 

SECTION XLIX. 
Oxenholme Junction to Windermere •. . . 442 

SECTION I. 
Penrith to Whitehaven, and Maryport . .451 



SOUTH WALES. 

SECTION LI. 
Shrewsbury to Swansea and Pembroke . . . 453 

SECTION LII 
Hereford to Abergavenny, Newport, and Cardiff 457 



SCOTLAND. 

SECTION LIIL 
Carlisle to Glasgow, via Carstairs Junction . . 459 

EXCURSION XVI 
Beattock to Moffat and its Neighbourhood . 462 

EXCURSION XVII 
Carstairs to Lanark and Douglas . . . .465 

SECTION LIV 
Carlisle to Glasgow, via, Ayr (Land of Burns) . 467 

SECTION IV 
arlisle, via Dumfries to Stranraer . . . 477 



CONTENTS. 



SECTION LVI. 

PAGE. 

Glasgow 480 

EXCURSION XVIII 
Hamilton and Bothwell Castle , . . . 485 

SECTION LVII 

Glasgow to Stirling, the Trossachs, Loch Lomond, 
Dumbarton, and Glasgow ..... 488 

EXCURSION XIX. 

Stirling to Cambuskenneth Abbey, Rumbling Brig, 
Castle Campbell, Etc. ...... 504 

SECTION LVIIL 
Glasgow to Edinburgh by Caledonian Railway . 506 

EXCURSION XX. 
Edinburgh to Roslin, Hawthornden, Etc. . . 532 

SECTION LIX. 

Glasgow to Greenock, down the Clyde, through 
the Crinan Canal, to Oban, Etc 536 

EXCURSION XXI. 
Oban to Staffa and Iona ...... 544 

SECTION LX. 

Oban, via Ballachulish and Glencoe, to Fort 
William 550 

SECTION LXI 
Fort William to Inverness, via the Caledonian 
Canal 551 

EXCURSION XXII. 
Inverness to Isle of Skye and Back . . . 553 

SECTION LXIL 

Inverness, via Forres and Highland Railway, to 
Perth and Stirling ...... 556 



CONTENTS. xvii 



SECTION IX I II 

PAGE, 

Inverness, via Elgin and Aberdeen, to Perth and 
Stirling 563 

EXCURSION XXIII 
Aberdeen to Balmoral and Blair Atholl . . 567 

SECTION LXIV. 
Stirling to Edinburgh and Carlisle, via Melrose 
and Abbotsford . . 569 



TO THE CONTINENT. 

SECTION IXV. 
Choice of Routes 578 

SECTION LXVI. 

London, via Folkestone, to Boulogne ; or via Dover, 
to Calais . 579 

SECTION IXVII 
London, via Dover, to Calais ..... 582 

SECTION IXVIII 

London, via Brighton and Newhaven, to Dieppe ; 
and via Littlehampton, to Honfleur , . . 585 

SECTION IXIX. 

London, via Southampton, to Havre .... 590 

SECTION LXX. 

London, via Colchester and Harwich, to Antwerp 
and Rotterdam . . . . . . . . . 596 

Index 601 



MAPS AND PLANS. 

TO FACE PAGE 

Ireland .......... 89 

Killarney Lakes . . . . . . . .117 



b 



xviii CONTENTS. 




TO FACE 


PAGE 


Dublin . . . . . . . 




I84 


North Wales 




200 


London and North- Western Railway and its Communica 




tions . . . 




229 


London ........ 




332 


Environs of London 


. 


355 


The Lake District 




437 






459 


O .4 








. COLOURED PLATES. 






TO FACE 


PAGE 


Portrait of Stephenson {frontispiece). 










25 


Queenstown Harbour 




90 








Lower Lake, Killarney ..... 




121 


Ross Castle, Killarney .... 




126 


Cliffs of Moher 




I.S9 


Glendalough and Twelve Pin Mountains . 




I48 


Kylemore Lough, Connemara . 




ISO 






158 


"Tleaskin Head, Giant's Causeway 




l62 


Powerscourt Waterfall .... 




194 


Glendalough, Wicklow . . . 




197 


Menai Suspension Bridge .... 




203 


Britannia Tubular Bridge .... 




204 


Conway Castle . . . . 




206 


Waterloo Bridge, Bettws-y-Coed 




208 


The Swallow Falls, Bettws-y-Coed . 




211 


Pont Aberglaslyn ..... 




217 


Pass of Llanberis ..... 




219 


r Run corn Bridge ..... 




232 


London and North- Western Hotel, Liverpool 




235 


St. George's Hall, Liverpool 




237 


Exchange Buildings, Liverpool . . 




243 


Kenilworth Castle ..... 




28l 


The Avenue, Guy's Cliff, Warwickshire 




286 


Shakespeare's House, Strat ford-on- Avon . 




311 


St. Paul's Cathedral, London . 




341 


The Houses of Parliament 




345 


Westminster Abbey ..... 




34o 


The Tower of London .... 




352 


The Crystal Palace ..... 




360 


The Quadrant, Buxton .... 




. 380 


Chatsworth 




388 



COL UK ED FLA TES. 


xix 


TO FACE 


PAGE 


Leeds Town Hall 


402 


Kirkstall Abbey, near Leeds 












404 


Windermere 












443 


Coniston Lake . 












445 


Ulswater .... 












447 


Friars' Crag, Derwentwater 












449 


Glasgow Cathedral . 












481 


Loch Katrine and Ben Venue 












496 


Loch Lomond . 












490 


Edinburgh Castle 












5*2 


Holyrood Palace 












522 


Fingal's Cave, StarTa 












545 


lona .... 












547 


Strathcarron, Loch Carron in th 


e Dis 


:ance 








554 


Melrose Abbey 












57i 


Abbotsford . 












575 


WOODCUTS. 






PAGE. 


Entrance to Euston Station 


IO 


Entrance Hall, Euston Station ...... 


II 


Erecting Shop, Crewe Works ...... 


24 


An Express Train in Motion ...... 


25 


An Express Locomotive ....... 


26 


The "Rocket" 


27 


Diagram showing a Tender "picking up water," while in 




motion '........ 


2Q 


Retort for making Bessemer Steel . 


3° 


Eight-ton Steam Hammer ....... 


32 


The Circular Saw 


34 


The Boiler Shop ........ 


36 


The Rail Rolling Mill 


39 


Sleeping Saloon Carriage ....... 


46 


Plan of ditto ......... 


47 


Interior of ditto ........ 


48 


First-class Carriage converted into a Sleeping Compartment 


5o 


Ordinary Tri-composite Carriage . . . . . 


5i 


First Passenger Carriages used on the London and North- 




western Railway ....... 


52 


Interior of Signal Box at Crewe Station . . . . 


58 


Exterior of ditto, showing the number of wires . 


62 


Post Office Van, Mail Bag Exchanging Apparatus, showing 




Bags ready for delivery ...... 


65 



WOODCUTS. 



FAGE. 

Station Post, showing Bags hung ready for receiving by 

the Mail Bag Exchanging Apparatus . . . 67 

Interior of Sorting Carriage on the London and North- 
western Railway ....... 69 

Holyhead and Kingstown Mail Steamer Connanght . . 72 

Interior of Post Office Sorting Cabin on board the Con- 

naught 73 

Landing the American Mail at Queenstown . . . 74 
The Times Office, Printing House Square, at the hour of 

publishing ......... 77 

Interior of Messrs. Smith and Son's Railway Van , . 78 
Blackrock Castle . . . . . . . .91 

Blarney Castle 97 

Myrtle Grove I OO 

The Black water . . . . . . . .101 

Lismore Castle .107 

Gougaune-Barra Lake . . . . . . .110 

Glengariffe . . . . . . . . . 113 

The Arbutus . .114 

Brickeen Bridge . . . . . . . .120 

The Tunnel connecting Ross and Muckross Demesnes . 121 

Valentia 128 

Amphitheatre on the Coast of Kilkee . . . .137 

Lough Gill 155 

Ladies' Wishing Chair, Giant's Causeway . . . .162 
Giant's Loom . . . . . . . . . 163 

Giant's Organ 164 

Carrick-a-Rede Bridge 165 

An Ocean Mail Steamer rounding Holyhead , . . 201 
Last Half-mile of Ascent of Snowden .... 218 

The Ffestiniog Railway, starting from Portmadoc . . 220 
On the Ffestiniog Railway . . . . . .222 

Runcorn Bridge {facing) ....... 232 

George's Landing Stage, Liverpool ..... 250 

Kenilworth in Elizabeth's Time ..... 282 

The Great Gatehouse, Kenilworth ..... 283 

Fireplace, Kenilworth ....... 284 

Leicester's Tomb ........ 288 

Interior of Shakespeare's House . . . . . 311 

Shakespeare's Monument . . . . . . . 313 

St. Alban's Abbey . . . . . . . .331 

Poole's Hole ......... 385 

Haddon Hall ......... 390 

Terrace Steps, Haddon Hall . . . . . . 393 

Furness Abbey ....,,.. 440 

Chapter House, Furness Abbey . . . , .441 



LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN 
RAILWAY COMPANY'S GUIDE. 



CHAPTER I. 
HISTORY. 

SEVENTY years ago Trevithick announced that he would 
exhibit to the public, within an enclosed space on what is 
now the site of the Euston station of the London and North- 
Western Railway Company, a steam-coach rami ing round an 
elliptical railway. On the day fixed a great number of persons 
assembled to see it, but although the steam-coach performed its 
work to the satisfaction of the spectators, and it was announced 
that the exhibition would be repeated on the morrow, Trevithick 
suddenly closed the place and withdrew himself and his loco- 
motive from the scene. His whimsical temper was, however, 
so well known that this excited no particular wonder, though it 
disappointed a much larger crowd than that which had assembled 
on the previous day. * 

It is somewhat singular that this, one of the first experiments in 
railroad travelling, should have taken place on the spot destined 
to become in the course of little more than thirty years afterwards 
the head centre of the most important British railway company 
to which the nineteenth century has given birth — the London and 
North- Western. This railway company is formed out of 
the London and Birmingham, Grand Junction, and Manchester 
and Birmingham Railway Companies, amalgamated by Act of 
Parliament, passed July 16th, 1846. 

* Smiles's Lives of the Engineers, vol. iii,, p. 41. 



2 LONDON AND NORTH- WESTERN GUIDE. 

As, however, the Liverpool and Manchester line, which forms 
part of the London and North- Western system, was the grand 
experimental line of the world, being the first undertaken to 
serve the uses for which railways are now made, we purpose 
giving a short sketch of its origin and construction. 

The Liverpool and Manchester Eailway. 

Owing to the relations between the port of Liverpool and the 
manufacturing town of Manchester there grew up between these 
places an immense traffic, to meet the requirements of which the 
united resources of road and canal were found to be unequal. Raw 
cotton could not be conveyed into Manchester, nor manufactured 
fabrics carried out of it, with sufficient expedition by the carts and 
waggons on the one, and by the boats and barges on the other ; 
while in reply to complaints of delay the carriers carelessly 
informed the merchant or manufacturer that, if he were dis- 
satisfied, he might carry the goods himself. In 1821, therefore, a 
committee of Liverpool gentlemen was formed for the purpose 
of considering the formation of a tramway between Liverpool 
and Manchester, it being left quite an open question whether 
the goods trains should be drawn by horses, fixed engines, or by 
locomotives, as on the Stockton and Darlington line. Passenger 
traffic was only just hinted at as a thing which might possibly be 
included ! 

A trial survey was made amid great opposition on the 
part of almost all classes. Not only did Lords Derby and 
Wilton and Mr. Bradshaw, the agent for the Bridgewater Canal 
Company, oppose it, but even the cottagers rose up in arms. 
Gamekeepers harassed the surveyors as they would poachers, 
and farmers defended their fields with presented pitchforks. 
The mob, however, concentrated its hatred on the bearer of 
the theodolite, and it was found necessary to hire a professed 
" bruiser" to carry the instrument. Unable to cope with 
this champion at close quarters, the mob retired and from a 
distance smashed the theodolite with brickbats as they would 
kill a noxious animal. Afterwards a second survey was made, in 
which George Stephenson assisted ; and he, upon Mr. James, the 
principal surveyor, falling into difficulties, eventually completed 
it. The Liverpool and Manchester Railway Bill went into 
committee on the 2 1st of March, 1825. It was fiercely attacked 
and resolutely defended. Stephenson was examined, and then 
made his celebrated answer to the question whether it would not 
be an "awkward circumstance" if a cow should get upon the 
line, by replying, ' ' vara awkward — for the coo. " The bill was 
withdrawn, but engineers of greater weight with the public than 
Stephenson having been engaged, the line was surveyed again, 



LONDON AND BIRMINGHAM RAIL WA K 3 

and the bill went a second time into committee on the 6th of 
March following, and was passed after having cost the projectors 
no less than ^27,000. 

George Stephenson was now engaged as engineer at a 
salary of ^1,000 per year, and the works were commenced in 
earnest. The road across Chat Moss, which every other en- 
gineer had pronounced to be an impossibility, was accomplished 
at a comparatively small cost, and on the first of January, 1830, an 
experimental train of passengers went over it. It was not until 
the line was almost completed that the proprietors began in earnest 
to consider what system of traction should be adopted. Most of 
them were in favour of fixed engines ; very few advocated loco- 
motives. The directors, however, in their report of March 27th, 
1828, had stated "that after due consideration they had authorised 
their engineer to prepare a locomotive engine, . . which would be 
effective for the purposes of the company without being an annoy- 
ance to the public." 

A prize of ^"500 was offered for the best locomotive, and this 
was won by Robert Stephenson with the Rocket (see fig. 5, page 
27). Before the trial, however, this locomotive was by no means 
the favourite with the public — they were predisposed in favour 
of the Novelty, and the Rocket had absolutely to fight its way 
into favour. The line was opened for public traffic on the 15th of 
September, 1830, on which occasion Mr. Huskisson, M.P. for 
Liverpool, was unfortunately killed. The spot where this ac- 
cident occurred is marked by a monument, seen at Parkside, on 
the left, when travelling from Manchester to Liverpool. 

The London and Birmingham Railway. 

Two years later a bill was introduced into Parliament 
for making a line of railway between London and Birmingham. 
Though the feeling against the scheme was very strong in all 
towns on the intended route, this bill passed the Commons, but 
it was condemned almost without a hearing in the House 
of Lords, upon the motion of Earl Brownlow. In the following 
year, however, it was introduced again, and passed almost with- 
out opposition, the landowners, seven-eighths of whom before 
objected, having been literally bought over to sanction it. There 
was still considerable opposition out of doors, the land of one 
person, a clergyman, having to be surveyed whilst he was in 
the pulpit. Many towns shrank from the contact of the 
railway, dreading the supposed pestilential breath of the loco- 
motives. The Northamptonshire graziers feared that the smoke 
would injure the wool of their flocks ; they asserted that horses 
would run about distracted, and that cows would not graze on 
the sooty grass, while birds would drop down, stifled by 



sulphurous effluvia. The bill) however, received the royal assent 
on the 6th of May, 1833* 

The scheme for the London and Birmingham Railway began 
in the latter town in 1830. Two routes were proposed, one 
vid Coventry, the other vid Oxford, but George Stephenson 
decided in favour of the former. He and his son Robert were 
appointed engineers, and the latter walked over the entire length 
of the line no less than twenty times before it was completed. 
In the construction, of this line, difficulties of a different kind from 
those on the Liverpool and Manchester Railway were met with, 
for new ground will always present fresh obstacles to be over- 
come. The length of the lately-completed line was only thirty- 
two miles. It was now proposed to make a line 1 12J miles long, 
and to do this it was necessary to bore or cut though many hills, 
and to make embankments across many valleys ; and this had to 
be done by persons most of whom were new to their work. 
The men who had dug out the canals of a preceding day were 
a nucleus, which, absorbing miners and labourers, has developed 
into the present generation of "navvies." But we must bear 
in mind that, at the time when this railway was commenced, no 
such class, strictly speaking, existed. The contractors, too, were 
new to their work ; this is sufficiently proved by the fact 
that out of eighteen only seven finished their contracts. The 
others either became insolvent or had to be helped by the 
company. 

Primrose Hill was the first high ground J bored, and the stiff 
London clay, swelling or contracting according as the weather 
was wet or dry, made this a matter of no slight difficulty. 
Stephenson, who lived at Haverstock Hill at this time, had the 
tunnel (845 yards) lined with an immense thickness of brickwork, 
fearing lest it should " cave in," like the Preston Brook tunnel on 
the Grand Junction Railway. At Watford a tunnel 1,725 yards 
long was cut through the chalk ; at Northchurch a shorter one 
(530 yards), and one of nearly the same length at Stowhill, and 
between them the still shorter one of Linslade (290 yards). 

But at Kilsby ridge was the chief difficulty in the way of 
tunnelling. This hill had been fairly tested by trial shafts, and 
was found to consist of oolite shale, and was let as such to the 
contractor. But it was found, upon boring, that between them 
lay a quicksand under a bed of clay forty feet thick, and when the 
workmen came to this a deluge of water burst in upon them 
from above, and they were saved with difficulty. The contractor 
took to his bed at this unexpected discovery, and though the 
company released him from his obligations, he never rallied, but 
died shortly afterwards. The energies of Stephenson had to be 
brought to bear upon this undertaking. He erected steam- 



MANCHESTER AND BIRMINGHAM RAII WA K 5 

engines of 160 horse-power each, and conquered the water by 
sheer force. Thus the difficulty was surmounted, but only at a 
greatly increased cost of that part of the line, for the expense of 
making this tunnel was in reality ^300, 000, whereas the original 
estimate was only ^99,000. 

The most formidable cuttings were at Tring, Denbigh Hall, and 
Roade. Tring cutting is an immense chasm, opened through 
the chalk ridge of Ivinghoe, two and a half miles long, and for a 
quarter of a mile fifty-seven feet deep. 1,500,000 cubic yards of 
chalk were taken out, forming to the north an embankment six 
miles long and thirty feet high. Roade cutting is one mile 
and a half long, and in some places sixty-five feet deep, cut 
through clay and hard rock. Constant pumping was necessary to 
keep the works going. The contractors gave it up, and the 
company had to take it in hand. Steam-engines were set to 
pump, locomotives to draw, and 800 men and boys to dig, 
wheel, and blast, for which last purpose 3,000 barrels of gun- 
powder were used. 

On the 20th of July, 1837, the line was opened as far as 
Boxmoor, and on the 16th of October this was extended to 
Tring. On April 9th, 1838, a further extension was made to 
D,enbigh Hall, and on the same day that portion between 
Birmingham and Rugby was opened, the intermediate distance 
being worked by stage-coaches. The line between London and 
Birmingham was opened throughout on the 1 7th of September of 
the same year. 

The Manchester and Birmingham Railway. 

The Manchester and Birmingham Railway arose out of two 
distinct projects which were before Parliament in the session of 
1837, one of which was for a line of railway to run from Man- 
chester to the Tamworth station of the Birmingham and Derby 
line, the other to form a communication by rail between Man- 
chester and the Grand Junction Railway at Stafford ; Mr. 
Stephenson was engineer for the former, and Mr. Rastrick for 
the latter. 

The Parliamentary contest between the promoters of these 
two lines was at last settled by the appointment of a military 
engineer to examine the country and report on both the pro- 
jected routes. An amalgamation of interests was in consequence 
agreed upon, and the Act of incorporation received the royal 
assent on the 30th of June, 1837. The whole line was opened 
for public traffic in August, 1842. 

Some idea of the magnitude of the tunneLwork on the Lpndpn 
and North- Western Railway and its extensions may be gained 
from a glance at the following table : — 



6 LONDON AND NORTH* WESTERN GUIDE. 


3 


List of Tunnels upon the various lines of rail 


, showing their length, 




Name of line. 


Name of tunnel. 


London to Birmingham 


Primrose Hill 




55 55 


Kensal Green 
Watford 




55 55 

5 5 5 5 •" • 


Northchurch 

Linslade 

Stowhill 




5 5 55 " ' 


Kilsby 
Beechwood 




5 5 5 5 " * 


New Street 




Stour Valley 


,, (north of) 




Peterborough 


Wansford 




Oxford 


Wolvercott 




Rugby and Stamford 


Morcutt 




Trent Valley 


Shugborough 




Grand Junction 


Wednesfield Heath 
Preston Brook 




Chester and Crewe 


Waverton 




Liverpool and Manchester 


Lime Street 




5 5 55 


Waterloo 




55 55 


Byrom Street 




55 5J 


Crown Street 




55 55 
55 55 


55 

Wapping 




Bolton and Kenyon 


Kenyon 




Clifton Branch 


Clifton 




Crewe and Manchester 


Stockport 




Huddersfield and Manchester 

J> 55 


Staley- Bridge 

55 




J> 55 


Standedge 




55 55 


Huddersfield 




Leeds and Dewsbury 


Morley 




Macclesfield Branch 


Macclesfield 




55 55 **• 


Prestbury 




Chester and Holyhead . •. , 


Aggregate length 




Bangor and Caernarvon 


55 55 









TUNNELS. 



situation, and the nature of the soil through which they run. 



Situation. 


Length. 


Nature of soil. 




Yards. 




1 1 mile post 


845 


London clay 


4} f'l 


347 


Originally an open cutting 


m 


1,725 


Chalk and quicksand 


29i 


53o 


Chalk and gravel 


40f 


290 


Sand rock 


68 


5°9 


Oolite clay 


76f „ 


2,435 


Lias clay and oolite shale 


9H . >, 


300 


Shelly marl, and hard rock 


Birmingham 


329 


Sand and sandstone rock 




854 


Red sandstone rock 


103 mile post 


616 


Shale, rock, sand, and peat 


2 miles from Oxford 


H3 


Soft blue clay 


33^ mile post 


452 


Blue clay 


4 miles south of Stafford 


790 


Gravel and rock 


Near Wolverhampton 


176 


Shale and coal measures 


184^ mile post 


79 


Marl 


i85t „ 


156 


Sand 


Liverpool 


2, 086 


\ 




,, 


840 






5, 


2,689 
288 




-New Rock 


J, 

,5 


120 

2,233 


> 




18 mile post 


34 


Marl 


2 T ,, 


1,276 


Sand 


6 miles from Manchester 


297 


,, 


Staley Bridge 


665 


Clay, shale, and rock 


I mile west of Morsley 


200 


\ 


station 






Between Diggle and 
Marsden 


5,323 


J- Shale and rock 


Huddersfield 


1,067 




Near Leeds 


3,37o 


/ 


1 7^ miles from Manchester 
15 » „ 


342 
264 


[ Clay and sand 


of tunnelling 


4,73i 




>j 


855 





We have said that the Liverpool and Manchester Railway 
was the grand experimental line of the world ; and in like 
manner the London and Birmingham was intended by Stephen- 
son to be the model line. It is certainly no small credit to the 
genius of that engineer that, through all the battles of the 
guages, of longitudinal or transverse sleepers, and the thousand 
and one vexed questions of railway engineering, this line 
has held its own, and that the characteristic peculiarities of 
other lines have been virtually set aside. Something is due 
doubtless to the almost royal position which the London and 
North-Western Railway Company holds among the railway 
companies of the United Kingdom, which induces the pro- 
moters of other lines to construct them so that they may run in 
harmony with the leading line of the country. 

These three lines of railway, a brief sketch of the rise and 
completion of which we have given above, were the commence- 
ment of the gigantic system of iron highways, which, starting 
from the spot where in the early part of this century Trevithick's 
locomotive ran its ephemeral round, now traverses 1,641 miles 
of the United Kingdom, and is known as the London and 
North-Western System. 

Euston Station, 

at once the great starting-point and terminus of this system, is 
approached from Euston Square between two lodges, one of 
which (the western) is a branch office of Messrs. Norton and Shaw, 
the celebrated tourist agents and guide book publishers. Mid- 
way between these lodges stands a statue of Robert Stephenson. 
Crossing the northern division of the square and passing between 
the two great railway hotels, the Euston and the Victoria, the 
severe, but imposing entrance portico of the station (fig. I ), with its 
ornamental iron gates, rises before the spectator with a dignity 
becoming its position, in front of the chief station of the London 
and North-Western Railway Company. On each side of this 
portico, which is built in the Doric style, from designs by Hard- 
wick, are two offices — one is used for the post and postal telegraph 
office, and the others respectively for the royal mails, parcels 
office, lavatory, etc. Passing from this entrance to the station a 
carriage area, about 135 feet long by an average of 66 in width, is 
crossed, this having at its northern extremity verandah work of 
iron and glass to protect passengers from the weather as they 
alight from their vehicles. 

On entering the station the tourist finds himself in the large 
entrance hall (fig. 2), a spacious room, 126 feet long by 61 feet in 
width and 62 in height, at the extremity of which is a staircase 
leading to the board room and various offices, and near the foot of 



this staircase is a statue of the elder Stephenson. On each side of 
the hall are doors leading to the booking offices, and thence to the 
waiting and refreshment rooms, and also to the platforms, which, 
together with the lines of rail within the station, are covered over 
with a glazed roof of great extent, supported by iron pillars. 
The cost of this station was upwards of £ 100,000; and its extent 
is above six acres. 

The shareholders' meeting room at Euston station is large, and 
contains a painting, by Joy, of the late Lord Wolverton, formerly 
a chairman of the company, and a bust by Wyon, of Admiral 
Moorsom, who also held that office. The room is used for the 
meetings of the board of directors, a number of gentlemen chosen 
from the most important of the proprietors ; the directors and 
other officers for the year 1875 being shown in the following 
list :— 

Board of Directors. 

Richard Moon, Esq., Woodlands, Harrow Weald, Stanmore, 

Middlesex, chairman. 
James Bancroft, Esq., Broughton Hall, Manchester. 
John Pares Bickersteth, Esq., Grove Mill House, near Wat- 
ford, Herts. 
James Bland, Esq., Quarry Bank, Liverpool. 
Col. James Bourne, M.P., Heathfield House, Liverpool. 
The Hon. Thomas Charles Bruce, M.P., 42, Hill Street, Berkeley 

Square, London, W. 
William Cawkwell, Esq., 48, Regent's Park Road, London, 

N.W. 
George Crosfield, Esq., Walton Lea, Warrington ; and 22, 

Hyde Park Street, London, W. 
Richard Ryder Dean, Esq., 97, Gloucester Place, Portman 

Square, London, W. 
Sir Hardman Earle, Bart., Allerton Tower, Liverpool. 
A Fletcher, Esq., Allerton Wootton, Liverpool. 
Henry Russell Greg, Esq., Lode Hill, Handforth, Manchester. 
Lord Richard Grosvenor, M.P., 76, Brook Street, London, W. 
John Hartley, Esq., Tong Castle, Shifnal, Salop. 
John Llick, Esq., M.P., Mytton Hall, near Whalley, Lancashire. 
William Edwards Hirst, Esq., Lascelles Hall, Huddersneld. 
William Nicholson Iiodgson, Esq., M.P., Ncwby Grange, 

Carlisle. 
John King, Esq., junior, Chepstow Street, Manchester. 
J. Knowles, Esq., M.P. Darnhall Hall, Winsford, Cheshire. 
The Hon. William Lowther, M.P., Ampthill Park, Ampthill. 

Beds ; and Lowther Lodge, Kensington Gore, London, W. 




Entrance to Euston Station. (Fig. i.) 




Entrance Hall, Euston Station. (Fig. 2,) 



12 LONDON AND NORTH- WESTERN GUIDE, 

Matthew Lyon, Esq., Leamington. 

William Dalziel Mackenzie, Esq., Gillotts, Henley-on-Thames. 
Michael Linning Melville, Esq., Hartfield Grove, Tunbridge Wells. 
Lord Alfred Paget, 56, Queen Anne Street, London, W. 
George Sheward, Esq., 17, Leinster Square, Bayswater, London, 

W. 
Oscar Leslie Stephen, Esq., Bardon Hall, Leicester; and 5, 

Whitehall Yard, London, S.W. 
The Duke of Sutherland, K.G., Stafford House, St. James's 

London, S.W. 
William Tipping, Esq., Brasted Park, S even Oaks, Kent. 
Llenry Ward, Esq., Rodbaston, Penkridge, Stafford. 
J. M. Wood, Esq., Leigham Court Road, Streatham, S.W. 

Chief Traffic Manager, G. Findlay, .Esq. 
Secretary, Stephen Reay, Esq. 
Solicitor, Richard Francis Roberts, Esq, 
Civil Engineer, William Baker, Esq. 
Mechanical Engineer, Francis W. W t ebb, Esq. 
Marine Superintendent, Captain C. B. C. Dent, R.N. 
Superintendent of the Line, G. P. Neele, Esq, 
Chief Goods Manager, Thomas Kay, Esq. 



Extent of the System. 

The following table, showing the gigantic proportions of the 
company, will be interesting to some of our readers : — 



Authorised 
capital. 


Value of 

locomotives, 

without tenders. 


Value of carriages 

and waggons 
at present in use. 


English 

money. 


American 
money. 


English 

money. 


American 
money. 


English 
money. 


American 
.money. 


£ 

63, 582.365 


Dollars. 
317,911,825 


£ 

5,640,000 


Dollars. 
28,200,000 


£ 

3,260,259 


Dollars. 
16,301,295 



At the present time (September, 1875) there are 1,587 miles 
of line opened in connection with the London and North- Western 
Railway ; and q&l miles of new branches are in course of con- 



LIST OF CANALS, 



13 



struct! oil and approaching completion. But in addition to their 
railways, the following canals are also under the control of the 
directors : — 



Name of canal. 



Shropshire Union 
Canal 



Lancaster Canal 

Sir John Ramsden's 

Canal 
Huddersfield Canal 

St. Helen's Canal 
Birmingham Canal 
Navigation 



Rochdale Canal Na- 
vigation 

Leeds and Liverpool 
Canal 



Extent. 



From Ellesmere Port to Wolver- 
hampton, with branches to Middle- 
wich and Shrewsbury, and from 
Newtown to a junction with the 
above at Harlestown, with a branch 
to Llangollen and some minor ex 
tensions 

From Kendal to Preston, and branch 
to Glasson Dock 

From Huddersfield to Cooper Bridge 

From Ashton-under-Lyne to Hudders- 
field 

From St. Helen's to Widnes... 

From Birmingham to Wolverhampton, 
Lichfield, Tamworth, with various 
branches in the South Staffordshire 
district 

From Manchester to Sowerby Bridge, 
with branch to Heywood ... 

From Leeds to Liverpool, with 
branches from Lathom to Tarleston 
Lock, and Wigan to Leigh 

Total 



Length. 



Miles. 



203! 
60 

4 



i°4 
1 6| 



160 
35 

143-i 
642I 



We have thus given a rapid resume of the history of the Lon- 
don and North -Western Railway and its present position. Let 
us now glance at the several departments by which the operations 
of the company are carried on ; and afterwards conduct the reader 
on an imaginary tour to the various places served by the system 
and its auxiliaries, 



CHAPTER II. 
THE PERMANENT WAY. 

IT will be readily understood by those who give a little con- 
sideration to the matter that even the best constructed railway 
requires a constant supervision and as constant an expenditure to 
maintain it in good working order. It is not enough that it has 
been skilfully planned by the civil-engineer and honestly made 
by the contractors ; for hundreds of miles of artificial roadway, 
made of and traversing every description of soil, at one time 
piercing hard rock, at others crossing the sands of the sea, must 
be liable to injury from numberless causes. Heavy storms, 
persistent rains, frost, snow, and the effect of sudden transitions 
from hot to cold weather, and from wet to dry, all act with 
injurious effect upon the railway. It may be slowly undermined 
by springs or suddenly washed away in some places by floods ; 
the metals suffer from constant wear and tear of rapid or heavy 
traffic, the keys which secure the rails in their chairs become loose, 
the misnamed ' * sleepers, " continually shaken, become restless and 
unsteady, culverts and drains get choked or broken through, the 
piers of bridges may sink, and the roofs of tunnels may "cave 
in" ; so that it is evident that constant and careful supervision 
can alone insure the safety of those who travel by rail. 

In order to prevent danger or inconvenience to the passengers 
from any such occurrences as we have mentioned the London 
and North-Western Railway Company's line is portioned out, 
according to the nature of its works, into distances of from 
seventeen to thirty miles, and over each of these divisions there 
is appointed an "overlooker," whose portion of the line is 
subdivided into "lengths," to each of which there is a foreman, 
and a gang of two or three men. 

Every morning before the first train passes the foreman is 
required to walk over the whole of his length, not merely to look 
over it, but to ascertain from actual inspection that every one of 
the wooden plugs, or keys, which secure the rails in the chairs is 
firmly fixed and driven home, and that the rails are properly in 



gauge ; and so well are all these rules and arrangements attended 
to and carried out that the whole of the line is thus daily 
inspected before the arrival of* the first "up" and first "down" 
trains ; the overlooker examining and verifying the work of the 
foreman and his gang. 

Should a foreman detect any fault in any part of his length he 
proceeds to remedy it at once. At a distance of 800 yards above 
or below the spot, according as it is on the down or the up line, he 
plants a red flag, and this is kept flying until his men have made 
the necessary repairs. In case of a landslip or other obstruction 
notice is immediately sent to the proper quarter, and a "break- 
down" party is at once conveyed with tools and all necessary 
materiel to the spot ; and, when the metals become worn, or 
the sleepers unsteady, a "relaying" party is promptly set to work 
to renew the defective part of the line. 

One very important point in all these operations is to repair 
any damage without impeding public traffic, and this is so skil- 
fully managed that many miles of rails can be taken up and 
turned, or others relaid, in an incredibly short space of time. 
While the men are engaged in this work they are protected by 
the red flag, and attended by an official who informs them of the 
approach of a train, when, if any piece of rail has been taken 
up, it is immediately laid down again, and temporarily secured in 
its place for the train to pass over. In like manner the driver of 
the engine is warned by fog-signals of the proximity of the work- 
men, and he slackens speed accordingly to enable them to get 
the temporary rail ready by the time the train reaches the spot. 
This being done, the men stand clear of the rails and on the 
outside of the line, and the train passes on its way, probably 
without any of the passengers being aware of what had been 
going on, or of the break that had happened in the line but a few 
minutes before. In this way many miles of rail have before now 
been taken up and relaid in one day, and, in the meanwhile, as 
many thousands of passengers have travelled over that part of the 
line without inconvenience or hurt. 

All these above-mentioned operations are under the direction 
of the civil-engineer of the company, as are also the repairs of the 
bridges, viaducts, tunnels, etc., which are conducted by a class of 
officials educated and trained to remedy the injuries to which 
these parts of the permanent way are severally liable. The 
stations, sidings, sheds, drainage, etc., are also carefully in- 
spected, and any inefficiency reported. Every part of the 
company's line is thus watched and supervised day by day, in 
order that nothing likely to cause danger or inconvenience to the 
public may occur. 

In foggy weather additional precautions are taken; indeed, 



1 6 LONDON AND NORTH* WESTERN GUIDE. 

ballasting is not allowed to be done at these times, except under 
very urgent circumstances. 

But it is not enough that the permanent way be thus carefully 
looked after ; the rolling stock which passes over it is also very 
closely inspected, for both may be endangered if either of them 
be not in good order. Therefore as soon as an engine has 
finished its course for the day, has blown off its steam, and has had 
its fires raked out, it is cleaned and examined in the engine- 
house. The driver first goes carefully through all its parts, 
noting down in a book anything that may be defective or missing. 
After he has done with it, it is again examined by the "foreman of 
the fitters," and if he find anything out of order which the driver 
has omitted to mention, the latter gets reported. To make 
assurance trebly sure, the engine is examined a third time by 
the superintending engineer, and the foreman of the fitters stands 
a chance of being reported in his turn if anything have escaped 
him. There is also a boiler inspector, whose duty it is to 
report upon the safety of that part of the engine. 

In like manner the carriages are cleaned and examined, and 
the soundness of the wheels tested, the grease-boxes are filled, 
the buffer-rods cleaned and oiled, the cushions dusted, and 
everything done that can secure the safety and comfort of the 
passengers. 

The engine-driver is required to be at his post at least thirty 
minutes previous to the advertised time of departure of the 
train. He has then to sign his name in a book, and if his 
signature be not perfectly steady he is suspended, or may be 
discharged. If all be right, he receives his coke ticket and his 
time card, upon which he sets down the time lost at every 
station. Finally, his chronometer is wound up and set to 
correct time, and he is then ready to take his place and start. 

We have in this chapter given the tourist these particulars in 
order that he may know how great a care is taken by the 
London and North-Western Railway Company that he and other 
travellers on their lines shall, as far as human foresight avails, 
accomplish their journeys with ease, speed, and safety. How 
needful this care is he will see, when he reflects upon the following 
statistics. In the first place the number of passengers travelling 
over the permanent way of this company per clay, between their 
560 stations, is more than 100,000 ! Then the weight of goods 
and minerals (coal and coke included) carried over it per day is 
estimated at an average of 73,000 tons, while the number of " train 
miles" run per annum over this system is not less than 29, 000,000 ! ! ! 
Moreover, to conduct this enormous traffic requires 40,000 ser- 
vants and officials at a weekly cost of about £50, 000, and an 
annual consumption of coal amounting to 600,000 tons ! ! ! 



THE PERMANENT WAY. 17 



We have next to mention a few other statistics with regard to 
the permanent way, which we trust will prove of interest as show- 
ing the magnitude of the works over which the careful supervision 
above-mentioned is maintained. First, the number of miles 
run of the London and North- Western Railway is 1,641 ; this, 
however, does not represent one fourth of the length of rail 
used, which may be estimated at 10,000 miles, and its aggre- 
gate weight at nearly 700,000 tons ! ! ! From Willesden station to 
Bletchley there are already three lines of rail, and a fourth is being 
rapidly completed. When this is done the up and down lines 
on the north-east side will be for goods traffic and "stopping" 
trains, and those on the north-western side of the permanent 
way will be reserved for express and fast trains. The form of rail 
used by the London and North- Western Railway is that known 
as the "bull-headed." This form of rail is found more durable 
than the old " fish-belly ' ; rail, the form of which is seen in the 
illustration (fig. 17, page 52), and some examples of which were 
until recently to be seen in use near Watford. The sleepers, now 
universally of wood, were formerly, in the early days of railway 
engeering, large blocks of stone, it being supposed that this alone 
would stand the rough usage to which these misnomers were 
subjected. These square masses of stone had, however, after- 
wards to be taken up, and those of our readers who feel an in- 
terest in bygone "ways and means " may, in towns and villages 
on the London and North- Western Railway, often meet with 
these large granite blocks doing duty as paving or kerbstones, the 
holes pierced in them for the pins, or the hollows cut for the 
chairs, still plainly showing their former use as railway sleepers. 

While upon the subject of the permanent way, we must not 
omit mentioning some of its minor enemies, which might other- 
wise not occur to the reader ; we speak of the mole and the rat. 
The mouse, the mole, and the toad were mentioned by Virgil, 
more than eighteen centuries ago, as enemies to the perma- 
nency of the threshing-floor, and slight as the injury to the 
railway might seem to be from the burrowing of rats and other 
vermin, or the choking of drains by them, it is not overlooked 
on account of its insignificance, and there are in some districts 
men calling themselves rat-catchers to the London and North- 
western Railway Company. 

Leaving the permanent way, we now pass by an easy transition 
to the London and North- Western Railway Company's extension 
of their traffic over the common highway of the Anglo-Saxon 
race — the sea. 



18 LOADON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 



London and North-Western Railway Company's Steam- Vessels, 

The London and North- Western Railway Company are the 
owners of a fine fleet of steamers, rendered necessary for the sea 
passage between England and Ireland, via Holyhead. The 
following table shows their names and tonnage : — 



Name. 


Tonnage. 


Earl Spencer . 


859 


Eleanor ..... 


917 


Duchess of Sutherland 


908 


Countess of Erne 


829 


Duke of Sutherland . 


860 


Alexandra ..... 


827 


Stanley ..... 


769 


Telegraph ..... 


827 


Ad. Moors om .... 


787 


Cambria ..... 


759 


Dodder ..... 


162 



Two other steamers considerably larger and more powerful 
than the above, and intended for the Dublin service are now in 
course of construction by the Messrs Laird, 

These fast steam-vessels ply twice daily each way between 
Holyhead and North Wall Dublin, and once daily between Holy- 
head and Greenore, carrying on an average 15,000 passengers 
monthly. At Greenore will be found every accommodation for 
passengers. There are also trains in connection with the 
steamers between Greenore, Dundalk, and all parts of the North 
of Ireland. The London and North- Western Company's steamers 
carry on an average 10,000 passengers monthly, this number 
being quite distinct from those carried between Holyhead and 
Kingstown, and which in the month of April, 1873, stood as 
follows: — Saloon passengers, 3,133^; second cabin, 2,674^. 
Total, 5, 80S. 

The London and North- Western Railway Company are also 
joint owners of the splendid line of steamers running between 
Eleetwood and Belfast, and of the ferry steamers between Liver- 
pool and Birkenhead (Monks Ferry), 



CREWE WORKS. 19 



CHAPTER III. 

DESCRIPTION OF THE CREWE WORKS OF THE LONDON 
AND NORTH-WESTERN RAILWAY COMPANY. 

THESE works, which are now the largest railway works in 
the world, were established in March, 1843, for the pur- 
pose of repairing the locomotive engines, carriages, and waggons, 
required for working the Grand Junction Railway, now a part 
of the London and North- Western Railway system. 

The portion of the works at that time devoted to the use 
of the Locomotive Department became too limited for the effec- 
tive maintenance of the locomotive stock, and an addition of 
workshop accommodation was made to this department by the 
removal of the Waggon Department from Crewe to Ordsall 
Lane, Manchester. 

In 1853 an addition was made to the works at Crewe by the 
establishment of works for the manufacture of rails. 

In 1857 an amalgamation of the northern with the north- 
eastern divisions was effected, by which the Crewe works became 
the centre of the Locomotive and Carriage Departments of the 
northern division of the line, the locomotive centre of the 
southern division being at Wolverton. 

In 1859 further accommodation for the Locomotive Department 
here was still urgently required, and this was obtained by the 
removal of the Carriage Department to Saltley, Birmingham, in 
the latter part of that year. 

In 1862 the Locomotive Department of the southern division 
of the railway was amalgamated with that of the northern 
division, and Mr. Ramsbottom, who was at that time locomotive 
superintendent of the northern division, was appointed locomo- 
tive superintendent and mechanical engineer for the whole 
system. From this time the locomotive works at Wolverton 
have gradually been handed over to the Carriage Department, 
additional accommodation having been provided at Crewe by 
the erection of suitable workshops, in lieu of those vacated at 



20 LONDON AND NORTH- WESTERN GUIDE* 

Wolverton. These changes, together with the removal of the 
Waggon department to Earlestown in 1853, placed the several 
centres of the Locomotive, Carriage, and Waggon Departments, 
at Crewe, Wolverton, and Earlestown respectively. 

In 1864 a very important addition to the Crewe establish- 
ment was made by the erection of works for the manufacture of 
Bessemer steel. The whole of the available land at the ' ' Old 
Works " being then occupied, it was necessary to place these 
works at a short distance down the Chester and Holyhead line. 
Up to this time the Chester and Holyhead Railway had gone 
through the centre of the works, and owing to the increasing 
traffic, both in the works and on the railway, it was deemed 
advisable to divert this portion of the line, so as to run entirely 
outside of the works. 

Advantage was taken of the piece of land situated in the fork, 
between the old line and the deviation, to build additional 
workshops, which, from their proximity to the new line, have, by 
general consent, received the appellation of the "Deviation 
Shops." To these shops the millwrights, pattern-makers, and 
moulders were removed from the old works in the end of 
1867. 

To keep pace with the continued development of the railway, 
a new boiler-shop and smithy were built in 1870 at the steel 
works, where the engine-repairing shops, in lieu of those vacated 
at Wolverton, had already been built. The tender building and 
repairing-shop and the engine-painting shop were removed in 1874 
to larger premises at the steel works. The directors having de- 
cided to make and repair the railway signals, hitherto done by 
contract, the old tender-shop has been altered for this purpose. 

When the workshops now in course of erection are completed, 
the covered area of the whole establishment at Crewe will be 
about twenty-three acres, the total enclosed space being about 
eighty-five acres. 

In 1 87 1 Mr. Ramsbottom, to whom the development of the 
works is largely due, retired from the service of the London and 
North- Western Railway Company, and Mr. F. W. Webb, who 
had previous to 1866 been Mr. Ramsbottom's chief assistant, 
was appointed as his successor. 

Although these works are essentially locomotive works, yet 
they produce a considerable quantity of warehouse machinery 
and other general machine work, such as is in use at the various 
stations on the line. The preparing capabilities of the works 
are now so wide in their range that the company are now the 
manufacturers, after the purchase of the raw materials (in the 
shape of pig-iron, spiegeleisen, and scrap wrought iron), of every 
part of the locomotive engines and other machinery constructed 



CREWE WORKS, 21 

at Crewe, with the exception of brass tubes and copper plates. 
Several engines have, however, been constructed, every part of 
which was manufactured at Crewe. 

The total number of locomotive engines which have been con- 
structed at these works, from their commencement up to the end 
of May, 1875, i s I >9 21 > J 4^ were made in one year — that ending 
November 30th, 1872. Besides these there are upwards of 1,700 
locomotive engines repaired annually, there being usually about 
250 in the workshops under repair at one time. 

The " Old Works," as the original establishment is now called, 
are entirely devoted to the manufacture and repair of locomotive 
engines, and comprise one shop used solely for erecting new 
engines, three repairing-shops, wheel-shop, fitting and turning- 
shop, smithy and forge for light forgings, spring- shop, copper- 
smithy, and signal-shop, also the offices and general stores. 

The forge and smithy here contains 113 smiths' fires, nineteen 
steam-hammers, ranging in weight from i\ cwts. to as many tons, 
twelve heating-furnaces, and two trains of rolls, capable of rolling 
the ordinary sections of merchant-iron from a quarter of an inch 
up to three inches in diameter, and also most of the ordinary 
sections of angle and T iron. With the exception of the forg- 
ings and smith's work which are made in the above-mentioned 
smithy, the various parts of the engines are brought here in 
their rough state, from the other parts of the works, as, for 
example, the framing and other wrought iron plates from the 
plate-mill ; the crank and straight axles, tyres, spring- steel, cou- 
pling and connecting-rods, and other steel forgings from the 
forge at the steel works ; cylinders, wheels, hornblocks, axle- 
boxes, and other iron and brass castings from the foundry. 

The lighter portions and "finished work" are taken to the 
fitting-shop, the interior of which, on entering, presents a bewilder- 
ing appearance, countless numbers of pullies and straps running 
in all directions, apparently in hopeless confusion, but which are 
each performing their various duties, that is, driving an endless 
variety of machines of all kinds, namely, turning-lathes, planing, 
shaping, slotting, boring, and drilling-machines. Here locomo- 
tive cylinders are bored, planed, and fitted, the pistons, valves, 
valve-motion, axle-boxes, slide-bars, connecting-rods, coupling- 
rods, injectors, boiler-fittings, etc., undergo the various operations 
necessary to reduce them to the required proportions, all being 
prepared and fitted up to standard gauges and templates suited 
to the various classes of engines, but without respect to the in- 
dividual engine for which they may afterwards be used. Inter- 
changeability of parts is thus obtained to a large extent, resulting 
in great economy in repairs, and so far is sameness of parts 
carried that four of the standard classes of engines have their 



22 LONDON AND NORTH* WESTERN GUIDE. 

pistons, slide-bars, cross-heads, valves, valve-motion, and con- 
necting-rods exactly alike, any of which could, if required, be 
interchanged, and the coupling-rods of three classes of six-wheel 
coupled engines, of which there are large numbers, could be 
taken off any one of the engines and put on any other of the 
three classes. As an example of the accuracy resulting from the 
use of standard templates and gauges in the manufacture of the 
various parts of the locomotive engine, it may be stated that 
when one of a pair of cylinders, of an inside- cylinder engine, has 
been damaged, as frequently occurs, it has been replaced by a new 
one, which has been bolted to the remaining cylinder, without 
any further fitting. One portion of the fitting-shop is devoted to 
the manufacture of injectors, boiler-fittings, and other brass work, 
and here troughs covered with iron gratings have been formed in 
the floor for receiving the turnings. Into these troughs the 
turnings and borings which fall on the floor are swept, and are 
thus collected with greater facility, and are found to contain less 
foreign material than when collected in the usual way. The iron 
and other foreign materials, with which they become mixed, are 
separated from them, and thus prepared for re-melting, by comb- 
ing them through with a series of horseshoe magnets, placed 
on an endless revolving frame. A highly interesting adjunct to 
this shop is an upper room, devoted to the preparation of bolts, 
nuts, pins, and other small articles. Here a great many of the 
boys are placed on first entering the works as apprentices, and 
remain for a time, preparatory to being drafted out to more 
important work, and as they far outnumber the journeymen 
employed in the room, it is usually spoken of as the " nursery." 
Here are miniature lathes, slotting, and shaping-machines, 
besides a host of screwing, nut-tapping, and facing-machines. 
Nearly the whole of the work done here is given to the boys as 
piece-work, and some of them will face as many as 500 nuts per 
day, or chamfer 1,500. Here also the special tools and labour- 
saving appliances, used in the various parts of the works, are 
constructed. 

Simultaneously with the preparation in the fitting of the parts of 
the engines already referred to, the frame-plates, wheels, axles, 
etc., are prepared in the wheel-shop. This shop is fitted with the 
largest and most powerful machines, suited for the work to be 
done, the largest wheel-lathe being capable of turning the tyres 
of a pair of engine-wheels eight feet nine inches in diameter. The 
crank axle machinery is here very complete and carefully arranged, 
so that after one machine has done its special work to the axle it 
is passed on to the next in order, until it is completed. Specially 
notable in this group are the "roughing "-lathes, in which there 
are seven cutting-tools in each lathe employed at one time in 



CREWE WORKS. 23 

" roughing out" the crank axles, and the nibbling-machine, 
designed by Mr. Ramsbottom for cutting out the "throws " in 
the cranks, which has no fewer than 160 cutting-tools arranged 
round the circumference of a large disc. One marked feature of 
this shop is the mechanical arrangements used for lifting the 
wheels and axles into the lathes and other machines. This 
consists of light travelling jib-cranes, which run on a single rail 
laid on the floor of the shop, parallel with the lathes, and are 
worked by a light cotton cord, about f of an inch in diameter, 
running at the rate of about a mile per minute, and by which 
motion is transmitted to the various parts of the cranes. These 
cranes travel along the shop at the rate of eighty feet per minute, 
and lift their loads at the rate of nine feet per minute. 

The various parts of the locomotive having been thus prepared 
in the several shops, they are then taken to the erecting-shop, 
where the engines are built. A view of this department is given 
in fig. 3, showing workmen employed in the various operations for 
which the erecting shop is designed. The frames, being first put 
together, are now ready to receive the boilers, which, having been 
prepared in the boiler- shop, are then brought and fixed in their 
places, and after the various mountings have been fitted, the skele- 
ton locomotive is picked up by two overhead travelling cranes, one 
crane taking hold of each end, and the engine is carried outside of 
the shop, where the boiler is tested by steam to the ordinary work- 
ing pressure, and by hydraulic pressure up to 200 pounds per square 
inch. This having been done, it is again taken into the shop, where 
the boiler is covered, and the remaining parts, namely, pistons, 
valves, valve-motion, wheels and axles, springs, connecting and 
coupling-rods, etc., are put in their places, the complete engine is 
again laid hold of by the overhead cranes, and is carried by them 
out of the shop and taken to the paint-shop. The usual time re- 
quired in the erecting-shop for building an engine is about four 
weeks ; while the shortest time in which any engine has been built 
in this shop was fourteen working days. A tender for each engine, 
tank-engines excepted, having been built in the tender-shop at the 
same time that the engine was being built in the erecting-shop, is 
also taken to the paint-shop. The engine and tender, having 
been painted, are then coupled together, and after being tried on 
the line are ready for train service. The overhead travelling 
cranes, referred to in the erecting-shop, although different in con- 
struction from those in the wheel-shop, are similar in principle, 
being worked by a small cotton cord, running at a high velocity, 
and imparting motion to the various parts of the crane. This 
type of crane, designed by Mr. Ramsbottom, has been found so 
convenient and expeditious in working that the whole of the 
engine-repairing shops have been provided with them. 



CREWE WORKS. 



The leading types of locomotive engines made at Crewe are the 
express passenger engines (see fig. 4), having outside cylinders six- 
teen inches in diameter, twenty-four inches stroke, and single driv- 
ing-wheels seven feet six inches in diameter; the coupled passenger 
engines, having inside cylinders seventeen inches in diameter, 
twenty-four inches stroke, and two pairs of driving-wheels six 
feet six inches in diameter, coupled ; the goods engines, having 
inside cylinders seventeen inches in diameter, twenty-four inches 
stroke, and three pairs of wheels five feet in diameter, coupled ; 
and the coal-engines, for coal-trains and heavy goods, a six-wheel 
coupled engine, similar to the goods, but having a larger boiler, 
and wheels four feet three inches in diameter. The total number 
of locomotive engines in stock on the 31st of May, 1875, was 

2,157. 

After contemplating one of these giant engines made at Crewe, 
it may be worth the reader's while to turn to that early passenger 
locomotive, the Rocket, which in the year 1830 won the prize 
for excellence at Rainhill. Alighting at the Kensington station of 
the London and North- Western Railway, he will find in the Patent 
Office at the South Kensington Museum the very engine of which 
mention is made on page 3 of this work, and of which fig. 5 
is an illustration, and will be struck by the difference between it 
and the locomotives of the present day — the smallness of its 
size, the thinness and rudeness of its ironwork, the absence of 
spring buffers — their place being apparently supplied by a wooden 
beam — the want of steam-whistle and gauges, the uncased 
boiler, and the exposure of the cylinders to the cold current of 
air through which the locomotive passes en route, and the placing 
of that machinery upon which the very life, so to speak, of the 
engine depends in a situation where it would be most exposed 
to injury, not to mention the fact of those wheels in which 
strength and unity of parts are so much wanted being fitted with 
a wooden rim and spokes of no great thickness. 

Yet at the same time it would ill become him to " smile supe- 
rior " in the presence of the first successful passenger locomotive, 
a machine, to which the world is so much indebted, and which 
possesses much which is retained in all the engines of the present 
day — the tubular boiler, the steam draught, reversing levers, and 
the inside flange to its wheels, the merits and demerits of which 
were a matter of discussion in the days of Stephenson. The 
steam-pipe, too, though net kept hot, as it is in the present race 
of locomotives, by passing through the boiler, still has a sheltered 
position, and probably the best which the maker of the engine 
could then give it. To despise the Rocket, the forerunner of 
all passenger locomotives, would, therefore, be as ill judged as to 
admire Simonides and forget Cadmus. 




The Rocket. (Fig. 5.) 



28 LONDON AND NORTH- WESTERN GUIDE. 

The Lady of the Lake, one of the 7ft. 6m. express passenger 
engines belonging to the London and North- Western Railway 
Company, was exhibited at the International Exhibition in London 
in 1862, and obtained a bronze medal for excellence of work- 
manship. The engine Watt, one of the same class, ran the 
special train which conveyed the Queen's messenger bearing the 
despatches, containing the decision of the American Government 
in the case of the " Trent " difficulty in 1862 from Holyhead to 
Stafford, a distance of 131 miles, without a single stoppage ; the 
journey was made in 144 minutes, being at the rate of fifty-four 
and a half miles per hour. This remarkable run was made without 
stopping by the aid of Mr. Ramsbottom's "pick-up " apparatus, 
for supplying the tenders with water while running, an apparatus 
with which most of the tenders are fitted, and by the use of which 
the size and weight of the tender can be much reduced for running 
a given distance. A section of a London and North- Western 
tender fitted with this apparatus is shown in fig. 6. 

The " Steel Works," which consisted, at the time of their 
opening in 1864, of a converting-house with two converters, 
cogging-shop, and a small forge, have been much enlarged, the 
steel-making plant being now capable of producing 30,000 tons 
of steel per annum, and besides the addition of a large forge and 
rolling-mills, there have also been erected four locomotive 
repairing-shops, boiler-shop, boiler-smithy, furnace-shed, and 
plate stores. 

The converting plant consists of four 5 -ton converting vessels, 
arranged in two groups, with the cupolas placed behind them. 
The pig-iron is first melted in an ordinary cupola, the air being 
supplied to the cupola by a Roots blower, after which it is run 
down a trough formed in the sand into one of the convert- 
ing vessels. The sides of the vessel are thickly lined with 
ganister, a kind of refractory stone, the bottom of the vessel 
being formed with a great number of small holes for the admission 
of air ; through these holes the air is injected, being forced 
upwards through the molten metal, the oxygen of the air com- 
bining with and eliminating the carbon of the iron, and carrying 
on a fierce combustion inside the vessel, as can be seen from the 
showers which are thrown out of the mouth of the vessel, until 
the whole of the impurities are ejected. The "blowing," as this 
stage of Bessemer process is called, is carried on for a period vary- 
ing from fifteen to twenty minutes, until the metal in the vessel is 
thoroughly decarbonized, when the vessel is then turned on its 
side, and the blowing is stopped. A quantity (varying accord- 
ing to the quality of steel required) of spiegeleisen, an iron highly 
charged with carbon and manganese, and which has been previ- 
ously melted in one of the furnaces, is then run into the vessel 



CREWE WORKS. 31 

containing the decarbonized iron, and combines chemically with 
it ; thus a "known percentage of carbon and manganese is added 
to the metal in the vessel, and steel of the required degree of 
hardness is obtained. The vessel is now turned down and the 
liquid mass of steel which it contains is poured out into a huge 
ladle, carried on the end of a crane ; this crane is then swung 
round, and the steel is run out through a small hole in the bottom 
of the ladle into cast iron ingot moulds, which are ranged round 
the casting-pit in a semicircle, and .so formed into ingots, thus 
ending a process which presents at every stage what may be 
termed an exhibition of real fireworks, far surpassing any artifi- 
cial display. The ingot moulds are now removed, and the red- 
hot ingots are lifted out of the casting-pit by hydraulic cranes, 
and are taken away on the tramway to be worked up into rails, 
axles, plates, etc. A view showing the manufacture of Bessemer 
steel &t Crewe works is given in fig. 7. The air is supplied 
to the converting vessels by a very fine pair of horizontal ' ' blow- 
ing "-engines, of 45ohorse power, by Hick, Hargreaves, and 
Co., of Bolton. The steam cylinders are thirty-six inches in 
diameter, and five feet stroke, and the air cylinders forty-eight 
inches in diameter, and the same stroke as the steam cylinders. 
The walls of the engine-room are ornamented with the coats 
of arms of their Royal Highnesses the Prince of Wales and 
the Duke of Edinburgh, in commemoration of their visits to 
the works in 1866 and 1867 respectively. 

The forge machinery consists of a " cogging "-machine, a 30-ton 
and two 10-ton duplex steam-hammers, also four vertical steam- 
hammers, ranging in weight from 15 cwts. to 8 tons (see illustration, ' 
fig. 8), a tyre-rolling mill, a plate-rolling mill, a merchant-mill, 
and a mill for rolling spring-steel, together with saws and shear- 
ing-machines. The cogging-machine consists of a pair of large 
segmental rolls, five feet in diameter, and are geared to an engine, 
which is reversed, together with the rolls, by hydraulic power. 
This machine is employed in ' ; roughing down" steel ingots into 
blooms for rails, previous to their being taken to the rail works 
to be rolled into rails, there being at present no rail-mill at the 
steel works ; but Mr. Webb is now preparing to put down a power- 
ful mill here for this purpose. The 30-ton hammer was designed 
by Mr. Ramsbottom, and consists of two ponderous blocks, each 
weighing 30 tons, moving upon rails, and carried by eight small 
wheels. These blocks are moved by large steam cylinders placed 
immediately behind them, and on steam being admitted to the 
cylinders, the hammer-blocks are propelled with enormous force 
against the mass to be forged. This hammer is principally em- 
ployed in drawing down the steel ingots for crank axles, straight 
axles, and tyres. 



CREWE WORKS. 33 



The large saw shown in fig. 9, and used for sawing off the 
crop ends of the forgings, is seven feet in diameter, and is driven 
by a special engine at a very high velocity, the teeth running at 
the rate of 13,000 feet per minute. The end of an axle nine 
inches in diameter is sawn through while hot by this saw in 
less than half a minute ! The tyre-mill is driven by a pair of 
horizontal engines, and is employed in rolling solid steel tyres, 
and not only rolls the tyres required for the locomotive 
engines and tenders, but also supplies the whole of the tyres 
required by the carriage and waggon departments, the number 
rolled for these departments often reaching 650 per week. 
The plate-mill has rolls twenty-four inches in diameter ; it is 
driven by a pair of vertical reversing engines, constructed with 
link motion and reversed by hydraulic power. As an illustration 
of the ease with which this mill can be reversed, it may be stated 
that it has actually been reversed seventy-three times in one minute, 
the rolls making a quarter of a revolution in each direction. 
The rolls are adjusted with great nicety for the required thick- 
ness of plates by an arrangement of tightening down gear, by 
which both ends of the rolls are simultaneously lowered after 
each pass of a slab, thus securing greater accuracy in rolling to 
thickness than can be obtained by the ordinary method of 
screwing down. This operation is performed by hydraulic 
power and is manipulated by a boy. Steel plates for stationary 
boilers have been rolled in this mill twenty-four feet long, four 
feet nine inches wide, and § of an inch thick, and also plates 
for locomotive fire-box seventeen feet long, six feet wide, and 
T 5 -g- of an inch thick. The merchant-mill is of the same size 
as the plate-mill, and is suitable for rolling the heavier sections 
of merchant-iron, but is principally employed in rolling axles for 
the carriage and waggon departments. The axles are rolled in 
the mill with the required taper, being small in the middle and 
tapering out to a large diameter at the ends, this shape being 
imparted to them by suitable grooves in the rolls. 

The hydraulic power for performing the several operations re- 
ferred to is obtained from a pair of pumping-engines, the water 
from which is conducted in pipes laid underground to all parts 
of the w r orks, and is rendered serviceable in numerous ways. 

In the steel works there are twenty-two furnaces for heating 
the steel, all of which, with the exception of two, are Siemens's 
regenerative gas furnaces ; there is also one large annealing gas 
furnace, principally used for annealing steel boiler plates, and 
four for making steel by the Siemens-Martin process. The gas 
for these furnaces is generated in a series of gas-producers, 
twenty-two being employed for this purpose ; the^gas is conveyed 
from the producers to the furnaces in underground flues. 



CREWE WORKS. 35 



Steam is supplied to the various engines and steam-hammers 
by two ranges of stationary boilers, ten being of the Cornish 
type, five feet nine inches diameter, thirty feet long, with a single 
flue, and eight being of the Lancashire type, seven feet diameter, 
thirty feet long, with double flues ; these last have only recently 
been made at the works, and are constructed entirely of steel 
plates. 

The locomotive engine repairing- shops are a range of buildings 
993 feet long and 106 feet nine inches wide. They are fitted 
with wheel-lathes for turning the tyres of the engine-wheels when 
worn, and also numerous other machines required for effecting 
the necessary repairs to the various parts of the locomotive 
engines. They are also fitted with overhead travelling cord- 
cranes, the same as those in the erecting and repairing- shops at 
the Old Works. 

Each group of repairing shops, both here and at the Old Works, 
is furnished with boiling-pans, for removing the oil and grease 
from the various parts of the locomotive engines, when they are 
taken apart for repairs. By this means each part is well cleaned 
at very little cost, and the grease, having been collected, is after- 
wards converted into soap. 

The boiler-shop (a view of which, showing workmen engaged 
in the various branches of boiler-making, is seen in fig. 10) 
is 350 feet long and 107 feet six inches wide, and is devoted 
to the construction of locomotive, stationary, and other boilers. 
This shop is also fitted with overhead travelling cord- cranes, 
similar to those already referred to, but more lightly con- 
structed, and is equipped with machines of all kinds required 
in the preparation of the boilers, such as shearing, punching, 
drilling, and tapping-machines, and plate-bending rolls. The 
plates, after having their edges sheared to the required size, 
are accurately punched by a self-acting dividing-table, and after 
being annealed are bent in the bending-rolls and riveted up by 
the steam riveting-machines, two of which are constantly em- 
ployed. Several attempts to introduce steel into the manufacture 
of the boilers had been made here from time to time, but were not 
followed by any satisfactory results ; Mr. Webb has, however, been 
successful in using steel for this purpose, and three hundred and 
fifty locomotive and fifty stationary boilers have now been made 
almost exclusively of this material. A locomotive fire-box and also 
a complete locomotive boiler were sent from this shop to the Inter- 
national Exhibition in London in 1873 ; both of them were very 
fine specimens of boiler work, and were constructed entirely of 
steel. The greatest care is taken to insure reliable plates for 
the boilers, test-pieces being cut from each plate. A small 
hole I of an inch in diameter is punched into one of these 
. ^ 



pieces, and this hole is widened out by taper drifts until it be* 
comes a hole two inches in diameter ; another is bent nearly 
double, These pieces are cold when the tests are made, and unless 
they stand these severe tests the plate? are rejected. A piece is 
also tested for tensile strength and analyzed for carbon, and a 
complete register of all the tests, and also the position which 
each plate occupies in every boiler, is kept. As a proof of the 
excellence of the materials and workmanship used in the con- 
struction of boilers, it may be stated that out of 2, 500 locomotive 
boilers made at Crewe, since 1855, and up to the end of June, 
1875, there has not been a single case of explosion. In connec- 
tion with this shop is a smithy containing sixty smiths' hearths, 
and a furnace shop containing two plate furnaces, used for flang- 
ingand bending the boiler plates. 

Here are also the new tender-shop and painting-shop pre- 
viously referred to. These have been built on land recently 
purchased outside the original limits of the Steel Works. The 
former is 530 feet long, and is used for building new and re- 
pairing old tenders ; the latter, 350 feet long and 150 feet wide, 
is used for painting the engines and tenders, there being usually 
about a hundred of these in the shop at one time. 

Extensive brick-making plant has also been erected here ; it 
consists of two brick-making machines, with a large circular kiln 
on Hoffmann's principle, and the necessary drying sheds. The 
turn out from this plant was about five millions and a half of 
red bricks in the year ending May, 1875. Fire bricks are also 
made here, the old bricks being ground up for this purpose. 
Four ovens for burning have recently been erected; they are capa- 
ble of producing about eighty thousand fire bricks per month. 

The "Deviation Works" are, as previously stated, a range of 
shops built alongside of the deviation of the Chester and Holy- 
head Railway, and comprise a brass foundry, iron foundiy, mill- 
wright's shop, joiner's and pattern-maker's shop, and saw-mill. 

The brass foundry has a range of crucible furnaces in the centre 
of the shop, and a large melting furnace for heavy castings, and 
turns out an average of about ten tons of brass castings per week. 
Both in this and the iron foundry a considerable quantity of the 
moulding is done by machines and plated patterns for the smaller 
articles. The iron foundry has two large and two small cupolas, 
the pig-iron being lifted to the charging floor by a hydraulic lift ; 
it is also fitted with light overhead travelling cranes, and has four 
hydraulic jib-cranes, which are found to be extremely useful. The 
weekly out-put of iron castings from this foundry is usually about 
a hundred tons. 

The millwright's shop is devoted to the manufacture and repair 
of all shafting and machinery in the works ; to the construction 



of Granes, warehouse machinery, and stationary engines for 
the various goods stations on the railway ; as well as pumping 
machinery, and coal and water apparatus for supplying the loco- 
motive engines at the various steam-sheds and watering-stations. 

The joiner's and pattern-maker's shop, too, is fitted up with a 
great variety of wood-working machinery, comprising mortising, 
tenoning, tongueing, grooving, planing, surfacing, and dovetail- 
ing machines, and circular saw benches. The pattern-loft is 
overhead, and in a cellar underneath the shop is a saddler's 
shop, where machine-straps, hose-pipes, and other leather work 
are prepared. A large " Crispin" sewing-machine is employed 
here for this purpose. The saw-mill in connection with this 
shop is fitted with the heavier descriptions of wood-working 
machinery, such as log and deal frames, squaring-machines, rack- 
saws, and circular saw benches. At this place also is the labo- 
ratory for analyzing samples, such as pig-iron, spiegeleisen, and 
other materials used in the Bessemer process, also the test pieces 
of steel ingots, rails, boiler plates, etc. 

The "Rail Works" consist of a forge and mill for the 
manufacture of rails, and are capable of producing about 23,000 
tons of iron and steel rails per annum. In the forge there are 
fifteen puddling-fumaces and five balling-furnaces. The pig- 
iron, having been puddled, is brought out of the furnace in the 
shape of balls, which, having been shingled under a 5" ton 
steam-hammer, are passed through the rolls, and rolled into 10- 
inch slabs, two of which are afterwards re-heated in one of the 
balling-furnaces, then welded together under the hammer, and 
drawn down into a puddled bar suitable for tops for iron rails. 
In the mill there are seven heating-furnaces for heating the 
blooms for steel rails and the rail piles for iron rails. The rail 
piles, which are formed of puddled bar and old rails, having been 
heated in one of the furnaces, are passed through the bolting-rolls 
and formed into blooms, which are then re-heated and rolled 
out into rails ; an illustration of the process is given in fig. 1 1 . 
The rails while hot are sawn off to the required length by a 
circular saw, and after cooling are drilled and straightened. 
The forge rolls consist of two pairs of rolls eighteen inches in 
diameter, and the rail-mill of three pairs of rolls twenty inches 
in diameter ; both trains of rolls are driven by a pair of hori- 
zontal engines, by Boulton and Watt, the cylinders being thirty- 
six inches diameter and six feet stroke. Steam is supplied to 
them by seven upright boilers, which are heated by the waste 
gases from the furnaces. 

The general stores are at the Old Works, and all materials 
are issued from there to the several departments. No article of 
any kind, it matters not of what value it may be, whether an 



40 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

expensive brass casting, or a few yards of twine, can be procured 
without an order from one of the foremen ; and it is then issued 
by the storekeepers, who alone are allowed to enter the stores . 

One notable feature in the works is the narrow gauge tram- 
way, of which nearly three miles are now laid down, its ramifi- 
cations extending to every corner of the works. The gauge of 
this line is only eighteen inches, and the service is performed by 
miniature locomotive engines, weighing in working order only 
two and a half tons. These engines ran about with trains of 
strong low-wheeled trollies, conveying materials of all kinds 
from one part of the works to another. 

To drive the whole of the machinery in the works thirty-three 
stationary engines are employed, steam being supplied to them 
and to the twenty-nine steam-hammers in various parts of the 
works by thirty-five horizontal and thirteen upright boilers. 

For the convenience of those of the workmen who live at 
such a distance from the works as to be unable to go to their 
meals in the time allowed, dining-rooms have been provided by 
the company. Here they leave their food in the morning with 
the attendant, who prepares and places it in the allotted place, 
ready for each of the workmen at the mealtimes. 

The number of persons of ail classes to whom the works afford 
employment is about 6,000 ; but besides these there are about 
550 engine-drivers, firemen, and others at the steam-sheds at 
Crewe station, thus swelling the total number of persons em- 
ployed in the locomotive department at Crewe to 6,550. 

The steam-sheds just referred to, although not a part of Crewe 
works proper, still take no insignificant part in establishing 
Crewe as an important locomotive centre. Owing to the central 
position which Crewe occupies it is found advantageous to work 
most of the principal mail express and goods trains from this 
station, over the various parts of the system. About 120 engines 
are in steam daily at this station, for the stabling of which suit- 
able sheds are provided ; they cover an area of nearly two and a 
half acres. A valuable appendage to this shed is a washing- 
house and soap factory. This wash-house is equipped with the 
requisite machinery for washing the sponge-cloths and waste used 
in cleaning the locomotive engines. These when dirty are sent 
to Crewe from the various steam-sheds on the system, and are 
here washed and dried and afterwards sent back. The oil and 
grease from the cloths is collected and is subsequently converted 
into soap, which is then issued for use to the various steam-sheds. 

The company are also the makers of their own gas. The 
water supply is derived from the red sandstone at Whitmore, dis- 
tant about twelve miles south of Crewe, on the line between 
Crewe and Stafford. A large well has been sunk there and 



CREWE WORK'S. 41 

pumping machinery erected, the water being pumped into large 
reservoirs at Whitmore and Madeley, both of which are consider- 
ably elevated above Crewe, the water descending by its own 
gravity. 

The growth of the town of Crewe has been commensurate 
with the growth of the works, as previous to their establishment 
the inhabitants consisted solely of a few farmers and cottagers, 
and now the population numbers over twenty thousand, consisting 
almost entirely of the employes at the works, their families, and 
the tradesmen who supply them. The railway company have 
built, and are the owners of no fewer than 740 workmen's cot- 
tages, and in addition to this a considerable number have been 
built by the workmen themselves. As the town is almost entirely 
dependent upon the railway company, the directors have aided 
by their countenance and material support in nearly every public 
movement deserving of their liberality. They have built and 
endowed a church, and assisted by private subscription in the 
erection of many other places of worship ; have established a large 
national-school for the education of boys and girls ; have erected 
public baths, which afford every convenience; and they also supply 
the whole town with both gas and water. The Mechanics' 
Institution, a handsome building in Prince Albert Street, has 
also been provided and is literally supported by the directors. 
This institution comprises a library of upwards of five thousand 
volumes, many of wdiich are works on scientific subjects ; a com- 
fortable reading-room, liberally supplied with newspapers, maga- 
zines, and periodicals, 14,300 having been purchased in the year 
1874 ; class-rooms, smoking-room, gymnasium, an American 
bowling-saloon, specification-room, and a commodious leclure- 
hall, capable of accommodating eight hundred persons. Evening 
classes are held in the winter months for instruction in elementary 
and advanced subjects, and are largely attended by the young 
persons who are employed in the works during the day. That 
the privileges afforded by this institution are highly prized is 
proved by the facts that the average number of members for the 
year 1874 was upwards of a thousand, the membership for the 
winter months being 1,250, and that nearly twenty thousand 
volumes were issued from the library in the same year. A savings 
bank has also been instituted by the railway company, to encourage 
habits of prudence and economy among their servants and their 
families ; interest at the rate of four per cent, per annum is paid 
by the company on all sums deposited. The large numbers of 
depositors who avail themselves of this bank afford ample testi- 
mony of its value. 

In concluding this sketch of this railway colony we may state 
that the works have been visited by many distinguished persons 



of almost every nation, including Americans, Frenchmen, Ger- 
mans, Russians, Italians, etc. They were visited by Prince 
Oscar, now King of Sweden, in 1861 ; in 1866, by the Prince 
of Wales, accompanied by the Duke of Sutherland, the Earls of 
Lichfield, Sefton, Shrewsbury and Vane, Lord Eichard Gros- 
venor, etc. ; in 1867, by the Duke of Edinburgh, accompanied by 
the Earl of Shrewsbury, the Marquis of Ormonde, Lord Richard 
Grosvenor, etc. ; in 1872, by the Burmese Ambassadors, accom- 
panied by Major A. R. McMahon, political agent to the Court 
of Mandalya ; by Ed. Jones, Esq. , agent to the King of Burmah, 
the Mayor of Liverpool, etc. ; in 1872, by the Japanese Ambas- 
sadors, accompanied by Sir Harry Parkes, the Earl of Mar, the 
Mayors of Liverpool and Warrington, etc. ; by the Institution of 
Mechanical Engineers, in 1862 and 1872 ; by the British Associa- 
tion for the Advancement of Science, in 1870; and in June, 
1873, by His Majesty the Shah of Persia and suite, accompanied 
by the Duke of Sutherland, the Marquis of Stafford, the Earls 
Sefton and Shrewsbury, Lords Morley, Lord Richard Grosvenor, 
Major-General Sir Henry Rawlinson, Generals Hardinge and 
Stanton, Colonels Marshall and Byng, etc. His Majesty was 
received by R. Moon, Esq. , the chairman of the company, and a 
number of the directors, and was conducted through the works 
by Mr. Webb, locomotive superintendent and mechanical engineer 
to the company. 

Strangers are admitted to inspect the works only on present- 
ing suitable letters of introduction at the superintendent s office 
at the works. Those visitors who are furnished with such means 
of obtaining admittance, and are desirous of inspecting this great 
engineering establishment, will, of course, alight at Crewe Junc- 
tion, which is an important station distant 158 miles from London 
and 43I from Liverpool. For hotel accommodation at Crewe, 
and indeed at all other towns and places mentioned in our 
routes, the tourist will do well to consult the list attached to this 
work, and may depend upon our information on that head being 
the most trustworthy that can be obtained. 



CHAPTER IV. 
CARRIAGE AND WAGGON DEPARTMENT. 

Carriage Department, Wolvertoi). 

THE town of Wolverton may be said to be altogether a "rail- 
way " town. There is, indeed, at the distance of about a 
mile or so from the station, a little village called Old Wolverton, 
but the huge collection of brick-built houses, shops, factories, 
etc., now known as Wolverton, owes its origin entirely to the 
London and North- Western Railway. Some years ago, before 
the opening of the London and Birmingham section of the line, 
scarcely a house was to be seen on this site, but now, on emerging 
from the down platform of the station, the stranger passes through 
streets running at right angles to each other, and between square 
blocks of houses, marked with oval iron plates bearing the letters 
L. & B. R., and, bearing to the right, comes to the carriage works 
of the London and North- Western Railway Company, one of the 
largest establishments of the kind in the world. 

These works were originally intended for the construction of 
locomotives, but the advantages possessed by Crewe, from its 
being nearer to the coal-mines and iron- works of the midland 
district, caused the greater part of this branch of railway industry 
to be transferred to that place about the year 1864-5. Then the 
old shops were remodelled and enlarged, and new ones built, 
adapted to the carrying on of what is now the special manu- 
facture of the place — carriage-building. To what extent this 
enlarging was necessary may be seen from a visit to the "paint- 
ing-shop," a large room capable of holding two hundred vehicles, 
with the hands engaged in painting, polishing, and fitting them 
with trimmings ; but which formerly sufficed for three distinct 
branches of the locomotive manufacture. 

By visiting the London and North- Western Company's works 
at Wolverton a stranger may see carriages in every stage of con- 
struction. He will find vast timber sheds for housing huge balks 
of oak, teak, mahogany, and pine, and smaller ones of sycamores 
walnut, and maple, for the decorative part of the work. Near to 



44 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

are mills for sawing, planing, drilling, and dressing the wood 
before it goes into the building-shops, where there are carriages 
in all stages towards completion, and of every class, from the 
magnificent sleeping-saloon (see page 46) down to the carriage 
truck and horse box. On the other hand, by going to the foundry 
and fitting-shops he will see the casting, forging, or dressing, of 
every piece of metal work used in their construction. In 
another place he will be shown the repairing-room, where various 
classes of vehicles are being re-bottomed, repannelled, or repaired, 
so long as this can be done with advantage, and also the place 
where carriages past service are broken up and sold ; no part of 
an old carriage, whether it be wood or metal work, being used 
in the construction of a new one, so great is the care of the 
London and North-Western Railway Company for the safety 
of its passengers. 

Besides these manufacturing departments, the company has 
constructed large sheds for protecting the carriages when built. 
One triple shed is one quarter of a mile in length and holds 
three hundred vehicles. 

In the large painting-shop, before mentioned, the decorative 
part of the work is done, and men may be seen engaged in paint- 
ing, varnishing, staining, polishing, gilding, and naming the dif- 
ferent " classes," " picking out" panels with lines, or adorning 
them with the coat of arms, or the intricate cypher L. & N. W. R., 
while in another section of the same room others are engaged 
in the trimmings and cushion making. 

The warehouses also are of great extent ; these are to store 
until wanted the hinges, bolts, screws, nails, etc., or the cushions, 
carpets, and curtains for the carriages. 

In so large an establishment as Wolverton it will be well seen 
that an exact system of time-keeping and supervision of the 
employes is necessary, and the regulations of the company for 
this purpose are as complete as possible. Opposite the entrance 
of every department sits a time-keeper, who receives in a box 
every workman's numbered check as he comes in, verifies his 
attendance at his work by three personal visits during the day, 
and marks his time accordingly, towards the end of the day placing 
the numbered check on a board, where the workman may see and 
take it, so as to be provided with it when he comes again at six 
the next morning. The hours of attendance at work are from 6 
a.m. to 5*30 p.m. on all days but Saturday, when the usual half 
holiday is given. 

But while, as in duty bound, looking strictly after the interests 
of the proprietors in guaranteeing the honest fulfilment of every 
man's duties, the directors are not unmindful of the moral and 
social welfare of their employes, and have accordingly provided 



CARRIAGE AND WAGGON DEPARTMENT. 45 

mess, bath, reading-rooms, etc., and a Mechanics' Institute for 
training and educational purposes ; and it reflects no small credit 
upon this latter that one of iis members in the year 1873 
gained the Whitworth scholarship. The extent of ground 
which the works cover at present is thirty-seven acres, and as 
they are still increasing in importance, it has been found 
necessary to add to the number of dwelling-houses for the work- 
men. A large piece of ground has therefore been bought by the 
company, and laid out for building purposes, about twenty new 
houses being in course of construction at the present time. 

The number of hands now employed in the works in the 
various departments is as follows : — 

Carriage Department hands - - - - - 1,475 
Locomotive ,, ,, - - - - - 514 
Gas ,, ,, 43 









2,032 


The usual number of vehicles kept 


in stock 


at 


Wolverton 


V T orks being — 








Saloons and first class carriages 


- 




279 


Second class carriages - 


- 




151 


Third ,, ,, 


- 




977 


Composite carriages - - - 


- 




■ 1,315 


Mail carriages - - ... 


- 




37 


JHorse boxes - 


- 




493 


Carriage trucks - 


■ 




359 



3>6u 

Besides the above, all the barrows, hand-trucks, levers, and 
other requirements of station platforms are made at Wolverton, 
and here also the notice boards are made, painted, and lettered. 
At these works every suggested improvement in carriage build- 
ing is fairly tried, and adopted if successful ; and one impor- 
tant matter connected with the safety of passengers is at the 
present time just completed there, viz., an improvement upon 
Clarke's break, by which a train at the height of speed can be 
stopped in ten seconds ; this was tried upon the train which in 
the autumn of 1873 conveyed her Majesty the Queen to Scotland. 
It is so contrived that the break can be applied to the whole train 
of carriages, or can be detached at will and made to act upon the 
luggage vans only. 

Before leaving this section of the Guide we purpose describing, 
for the benefit of those of our readers who may have to take long 
journeys by night, one of the new sleeping-saloons now constructed 
at Wolverton works. 



CARRIAGE AND WAGGON DEPARTMENT. 47 

This sleeping-saloon (fig. 12), which far excels for its admirable 
arrangements and luxurious accommodation all others in use upon 
English railways, is divided into a single and double compartment. 
The former will accommodate four travellers, while the latter is 
capable of holding eight, each having its separate lavatory and 
w.C, while the entrance-passage, common to both, divides the 
double compartment from the single one (see plan, fig. 13). By 
this arrangement the more numerous party of travellers, whether 
ladies or gentlemen, could have the double compartment, leaving 
the single one for the smaller party. In the same manner the 
couches and berths could be allotted to a larger and smaller 
party of gentlemen. 




Plan of Sleeping Saloon Carriage. (Fig. 13.) 



The sleeping-saloon is superbly fitted up with maple and 
walnut panelling, relieved with gilt mouldings. The seats, 
which resemble those of a first-class carriage, are covered with 
the blue cloth usually adopted by the London and North- 
Western Railway Company, but the seats are made to slide out 
and meet, thus forming one sleeping couch, running lengthways 
of the train, not transversely ; thus the four seats in the single 
compartment form two couches. Overhead are two chintz- 
covered mattrasses with pillows, which by a clever arrangement of 
levers can be lowered from the roof, where they are packed 
during the day, and made to form two sleeping-berths. These, 
when in position, are reached by a low pair of steps, upon which 
a little table-top slides so as to be available during the clay for 
writing, reading, chess, or other purposes. The windows of the 
carriage have crimson blinds, while a green shade covers the 
lamp, thus giving, in connection with the various fittings of the 
carriage, a pleasing variety of colour. 

The fittings of the lavatory, with its large mirror, etc., are also 
most complete, and the water arrangements admirable ; the last 
remark also applies to the w.c. 

Altogether this is one of the most magnificent specimens of 
railway carriage building yet produced, and carriages of this class 
are in great demand for long journeys. They certainly reflect great 



credit both upon the railway -company that projected the idea 
and the skilful hands that carried it out. A view of the double 
compartment in use as a sleeping-saloon is given in fig. 14. 

Fig. 15 shows the manner in which a first-class carriage attached 
to the Scotch and Irish mail trains is converted into sleeping com- 
partments, each compartment being made by this arrangement to 
provide sleeping accommodation for three travellers. The elbow 
rests, it will be seen, are thrown up so as to enable two persons 
to lie at length upon the ordinary seats of the carriage, while a 
third couch is provided by a seat which slides out and forms a 
communication between the two opposite seats on the right-hand 
side of the carriage. This arrangement leaves the door on the 
left hand, or platform side of the compartment, free for the ingress 
or egress of the passengers. 

From the illustration (fig. 16) the American tourist will undq-- 
stand the arrangement of a " tri-composite " carriage, that is, one 
divided into first, second, and third-class compartments, the 
difference of accommodation in these classes varying according to 
the price the traveller chooses, or is able, to pay for his journey 
by rail ; and it will be found, by referring to page 45 ante, that 
composite carnages form almost one-half of the passenger vehicles, 
and that they amount to one-third of the aggregate number of 
vehicles of all kinds kept in stock at Wolverton works. 

Whether this division of railway carriages into classes meets 
with the approbation of the American tourist or not, it is clearly 
a matter in which English railway companies have no choice, for 
railway classes merely coincide with and depend upon the exis- 
tence of corresponding social classes. It would doubtless do 
much to facilitate and simplify railway management if the British 
public would be content with one class of carriage, and one 
ticket-rate per mile. 

Before concluding this chapter upon the London and North- 
Western Railway establishment at Wolverton, with its vast stores, 
its splendid machinery, and its triumphs of carriage-building, 
we propose, by way of showing the progress made in, the special 
manufacture carried on there, to take a retrospective glance at 
one of the early railway passenger-carriages. This we do for 
the same reason as when speaking of the locomotive works at 
Crewe we brought before the notice of the reader the early rail- 
way " tractor,' 5 as engines like the Rocket were then called ; and 
in both instances of comparison we doubt not that the vast strides 
made since then towards excellence,, if not perfection, will be 
apparent. At the present day, indeed, if a little rain finds its 
way through the joints of a carriage it causes much angry com- 
plaint, and yet it is not so very long ago since open carriages ran 
upon some railways, bearing their loads of shivering passengers 



52 LOXDOX AXD XORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

through all kinds of weather. Illustrated works of that time 
show these railway travellers defending themselves with cloaks 
and umbrellas against the pelting storm through which they are 
being hurried, not indeed at the rate at which we now travel, for 
the speed of third-class trains was then as much behind the pre- 
sent rate of travelling as the carnages of that day were in comfort 
and convenience inferior to those now manufactured at Wolrerton. 
At the present day the third-class passenger travels with the 
same speed as the first on the London and North-YVestern Rail- 
way, for he can book by any train — v.ith the exception of one or 
two-, the very special purposes of which cause the number of 
travellers by them to be limited ; and he, moreover, rides in car- 
e rjually well provided in the winter with foot-warmers as 
the first-class, a comfort unknown in former times. As a matter 




(Fig. 17.) 

of interest, then, to those who are fond of comparing things past 
with things in present use, we give in fig. 17 an illustration of 
the exterior of one of the first passenger carriages used upon the 
London and Norrlr- Western Railway, showing also the w fish- 
belly' ' rails used at that time, and of which we have spoken 
already in our chapter on the Permanent Way. 



The Waggon Works, Earlestown Junction. 

In '1853-4 the London and North- West em Railway Company's 
waggon works were removed from Ordsall Lane to Earlestown 
Junction, a station situated nearly midway between Liverpool 
and Manchester. Previous to this date, however, there had 
been a private firm carrying on business at Earlestown, but, of 
course, occupying only a small proportion of the thirty-five acres 
of land now required for the waggon works of this great and 
opulent company. This acreage, which includes the space taken 
up by sidings, will at once show the importance of the works 
which occupy it. The various departments here are much the 
same as at Wolverton, viz., timber yards, foundries, saw- mills, 
smithies, building, fitting, painting, and repairing shops, together 
with stores., warehouses, offices, etc.; the difference being that 
they are devoted to the manufacture of vehicles in which strength 
and stowage room are looked to instead of elegance and comfort. 
In both cases, attention has been given by the Company to the 
special requirements of each department, and consequently both 
places are equally celebrated in the particular manufacture for 
which they were established. A somewhat smaller number of 
hands is employed at Earlestown, but the reader will be able to 
judge of the admirable arrangement of every part of the estab- 
lishment when he is told that a new waggon is turned out from 
Earlestown works every thirty minutes ! the total number of 
the London and North- Western Railway Company's waggons 
being upwards of 40,000. 

In addition to these, many waggons are manufactured by 
private firms ; but before these are suffered to run over the Com- 
pany's lines they have to be examined and reported safe by an 
inspector appointed for that duty, as the break-down of a badly 
constructed waggon might endanger the safety of a whole train. 
The wood used in the construction of the London and North- 
western Company's trucks is of the most durable kind, such as 
oak and elm ; the parts most liable to injury are protected with 
iron plates ; and, like carriages at Wolverton, old trucks and 
waggons, when past repairing, are broken up and the materials 
are sold. 



CHAPTER V. 
POINTS, SIGNALS, AND TELEGRAPHS. 

WE have remarked on page 1 6 that upwards of 100,000 persons 
travel daily upon the various lines of the London and North- 
western Railway ; and there are few of these travellers who do 
not, at particular points of their journey, approach some place 
where the simple pair of rails upon which they have been running 
seem to branch out to right and left into an apparently confused 
labyrinth of metals. Among all the many intersecting roads before 
them, there is perhaps but one which their train can follow without 
the greatest danger ; and while they in safety take this, other trains 
pass and re-pass, or branch off to right or left of them in perfect 
confidence, apparently as if they knew, among so many roads, 
the particular ones which would bring them safely to the end of 
their journey. The way in which this result is accomplished we 
propose to consider in the present chapter. This part of our 
mission, too, we trust to perform faithfully, and in such a manner 
that the traveller who has hitherto been timid at approaching 
some well-known junction, shall rest assured that he is in less 
danger there than whilst walking through the streets of the 
metropolis ; and shall unconcernedly hear the scream of an ap- 
proaching express, knowing that skill, foresight, and care have 
been combined so as to render it all but an impossibility for it to 
do him the slightest injury. 

All travellers have heard about and have seen points and 
signals, and know that their safety on a railway journey depends 
greatly upon these ; but the way in which they are worked exists 
in the minds of most men as a vague idea, and with generally the 
erroneous one that a signal-man is an overworked official who 
may, through fatigue of mind or body, show a safety signal while 
he opens a road to danger. They know his power ; for by day 
they have found their train slackened in its speed or stopped 
altogether in its course by the arm of the semaphore ; and by 
night, too, they have seen at large stations a number of red, 
green, and white lights, often so arranged as to call forth admira- 
tion at their beautiful effect ; and they know that these are the 



POINTS, SIGNALS, AND TELEGRAPHS. 55 

signals which stop their train, slacken its speed, or bid it go on 
and fear nothing. Few persons, however, know that though the 
signal-man apparently controls the machinery that effects this, 
yet he himself is also controlled by the machinery, and can in no 
way make the signals and the points work otherwise than in 
harmony. From ignorance of this arises that almost groundless 
fear which haunts some railway passengers when they see before 
them an apparent complication of lines, and trains steaming along 
them in all directions ; for they do not bear in mind that what 
appears to the uninitiated as hopeless confusion, is often to those 
who understand it admirable order. We extract the following, 
with some trifling additions and adaptations, from the Engineer: — 

" In the early youth of the railroad, ^signals formed an essential 
part of its equipment, and, though they were then imperfect in 
construction and rude in action, they satisfied tolerably well the 
wants of the time. But as the railroad extended its arms in all 
directions, branching hither and thither, converging to a terminus 
or diverging from a junction, the arrangement and working of 
signals involved problems of extreme complexity, problems all 
the more difficult because a failure in their solution might cause 
incalculable loss to railway proprietors and injury to railway 
travellers. The conditions of such problems have at length been 
reduced to their simplest form, and by arrangements which are 
neither costly nor complex, security in working points and signals 
has been attained, as great as the imperfection of all human 
mechanism will permit. 

"Not at junctions only, but also at most stations, and, above 
all, at terminal stations, points are required to shift trains from 
one line to another. At the greater stations, where trains are 
frequent, it is constantly necessary to change the platforms for 
arrival. One platform may be occupied by one train ; another 
train coming up must therefore be directed to another platform. 
Trains have to be drawn away from their arrival platforms and 
guided into those used for departure, and locomotives have to be 
directed now hither, now thither, to perform those operations of 
hauling and pushing which are so necessary, but which, to the 
uninitiated, appear so confused and perplexing. In all such cases, 
the mere movements to and fro are of course entirely in the 
hands of the engine-driver ; the deviations from side to side are 
exclusively under the control of the pointsman. There are thus 
two authorities who have to be co-ordinated by some system which 
shall make them work harmoniously together. The system, 
reduced to its simplest terms, is this : — The engine-driver is told 
that when a certain semaphore arm stands out horizontally before 
him, or when a certain red disc presents its broad face towards 
him, or when at night a certain red light meets his view, the line 



is barred against him ; on no account must he proceed, but must 
then and there stop short and remain till further orders. He 
knows nothing of the reason for the delay, nor need he know ; 
the signal tells him that danger is ahead, and however vexatious 
or unaccountable the stoppage may be, obey he must, on peril 
of life and limb, not to himself only, but to hundreds besides. 
When the semaphore arm is lowered, when the disc is turned 
edgeways towards him, or when a green or white light takes the 
place of the red glare, he may proceed, for those signals tell him 
that the line is clear. As signals constitute the organ of com- 
munication with the driver, almost everything depends on their 
being properly worked. In former times a station-master, a 
porter, or some other employe, put signals at safety or danger, as 
the case might be, while some one else worked the points. Or 
it might be that the pointsman ran from his point to the signal 
lever, or vice versd. But besides the outlay of time, this division 
of duty and responsibility could not ensure the safety of the 
passengers. Points and signals were at times in direct contra- 
diction, and produced disastrous consequences. 

" It thus came to be a matter of absolute necessity that 
railway points and signals should be so correlated that no con- 
tradiction could r occur. The desired result has been achieved, 
and perhaps nowhere is this triumph of ingenuity more fully 
illustrated than at the great stations on the London and North 
Western Railway. 

"For the sake of setting this apparently complex system of 
correlated points and signals more clearly before the reader, let 
us in imagination pay a visit to a signal-box at one of these great 
London and North- Western stations. It is not necessary to 
select any one in particular, for the only difference between them 
will be found to be in the external shape, or position, of the 
signal-box, the number of semaphores, levers, and telegraphs, 
and the number of employes required to work them. The system 
is the same in all. 

' ' We see before us, then, some hundred yards in front of the 
station, a platform erected, at a height sufficient to give a clear 
view of all the lines. On this platform stands a glass house, and 
farther on are four tall poles, from either side of which project 
semaphore arms, say, to the number of twenty-four. These arms 
generally remain in their horizontal attitude, to signify danger, 
and are only occasionally lowered, and that but for a few seconds, 
to signify that the passage is clear. With others at a distance 
they command all the lines and sidings near the station, and every 
driver of a locomotive arriving, departing, or changing lines, has 
to keep his eye steadily upon some of them, stopping without fail 
when their warning blocks his way, and moving without fear when 



POINTS, SIGNALS, AND TELEGRAPHS. 57 

they promise safety. 7 ^ He easily distinguishes which of the signals 
belong to the line he occupies for the moment, for they are arranged 
to right and left, and, in altitude, in a manner corresponding to the 
arrangement of the' lines themselves. If, then, the engine-driver 
does his duty, and if the signals properly point it out, no accident 
can happen. 

" Mounting by an iron ladder to the signal platform, we enter 
the glass house. One side of this building is occupied by a row 
of strong iron levers standing nearly upright from the floor, and 
placed at equal distances along the one side of the apartment, 
as in our view of the interior of the signal-box at Crewe (fig. 18) ; 
on the opposite side are many electric telegraph instruments, and 
the rest of the width forms a gangway or passage from end to end 
for two stalwart and serious-looking men, whose time is entirely 
occupied in looking through the glass sides of their cell, and pulling 
this way or pushing that way some of the levers which are arranged 
before them. These levers work all the points and signals, and 
their number is found to correspond exactly with the number 
of points and signal levers outside. Every lever is numbered, 
and on the floor beside it there is fixed a brass plate, engraved 
with its name and use. Sets of them are also distinguished in 
a way that readily catches the eye, by being painted in strong 
colours. Thus, for example, all the point levers may be black, 
the up signals red, the down signals blue, and the distant signals 
green. The row of levers thus presents a diversified pattern 
to the eye, which is readily caught by the parti-coloured groups, 
and, having once got the key, distinguishes quickly and correctly 
between their different classes. 

"On examining the levers somewhat more closely we perceive 
that many of them have numbers painted on their sides, not one 
number only, but in some cases half a dozen or more ; and one 
naturally asks what can be their meaning. These numbers in- 
volve the whole secret of the safety which is secured by the 
mechanism, as will be readily understood on examining the prin- 
ciples on which it has been devised. 

* ' The keys and pedals of an organ, as every one knows, com- 
mand numerous valves admitting air from a wind- chest to the 
pipes which it is desired to sound. The key-boards are some- 
times double or triple, and are occasionally arranged so that the 
performer sits with his back to the instrument. The pipes are 
generally spread over a large space, and sets of them are some- 
times enclosed in separate chambers. There thus arises con- 
siderable complexity in the mechanism by which the several keys 
are made to operate on their respective air valves. Nevertheless, 
by means of rods, cranks, and levers, such a connection is effected 
that, on depressing a C key, not one C pipe only, but it may be 



POINTS, SIGNALS, AND TELEGRAPHS. 59 

twenty C pipes are made to sound, in whatever part of the in" 
strument those pipes may be situated. And so it is with the 
points and signal levers. The whole row may be considered to 
form a key-board of five-and-a-half octaves, every key of which 
is connected by suitable cranks and rods to some one of the sixty- 
seven points and semaphores which have to be played upon. In 
the organ, a touch of the finger serves to depress a key, for the 
movement has only to admit a puff of air to certain pipes — but 
here the keys require a strong and steady pull, for they have to 
move ponderous point bars, or broad semaphore arms, and their 
movements have to be conveyed round many corners and over 
considerable distances. In both cases the mode of communicat- 
ing motion is the same, the two mechanisms differing only in 
size and strength ; and thus far the organ and the signal instru- 
ment exactly correspond. Now, however, we come to a point 
in which they differ toto ccelo. A performer on the organ can 
touch any keys he pleases in any order or in any number; he can 
* discourse most eloquent music,' or he can rend the ears of his 
audience by abominable discord. Not so the signalman. Concord 
he can produce at will, but discord is utterly beyond his powers. 
He cannot open the points to one line and at the same time give 
a safety signal to a line which crosses it ; and the points must be 
properly set, close home to the stock, or fixed rail, or the signal for 
a train to pass cannot possibly bx given, and the least obstruction 
occurring to prevent the full and true opening or closing of the 
points is at once discovered, even with connecting rods of the 
greatest length practicable. Moreover, whilst a train is actually 
travelling through the points, it is itself master of the situation; 
not even the signalman can, either intentionally or inadvertently, 
change their position or disturb them until the whole train is 
safely passed. When he gives a clear signal for a main line, he 
cannot open a point crossing to it ; when he gives a clear signal 
for a crossing he must show danger for all the lines which it 
crosses. And this is the meaning of the numbers marked on the 
different levers. No. 10, let us suppose, has 5, 7, and 23 marked 
on its side. He may pull at No. 10 as long as he pleases, but 
he cannot move it till Nos. 5, 7, and 23 have first been moved ; 
and so throughout the whole system. No signal lever can be 
moved to safety unless the point levers corresponding with it have 
first been moved, and no point lever can be moved while there 
stands at safety any signal lever that ought to stand at danger. 
Every lever is under lock and key, each being a part of the key 
which unlocks some of the others, and each forming a part of 
the lock which secures some_of the others against possible move- 
ment, while each is at the same time subject to the control of all 
those which are related to it. 



• "This result, complex and difficult as it seems, is achieved by 
mechanism of great simplicity and beauty. Immediately under 
the floor of the platform, and just in front of the levers, are 
arranged several series of vibrating and sliding bars, somewhat 
like the tumblers of a lock placed horizontally. These bars have 
projections here which stand in front of certain levers as obstacles 
to their motion, or notches there which permit certain levers to 
travel. Some of them have sloping faces such that, when a lever 
moves along them, it edges them to one side, and this transverse 
motion being communicated to others of the series brings the 
proper projections or notches in front of those other levers to 
which the moving lever is related. Thus, by the movement of 
one lever, some others are stopped and some are left free, and 
this simple principle carefully applied to all, works them into a 
system incapable of discord. 

"The locking apparatus of points and signals is not excepted 
from the general law of depreciation. So skilfully, however, have 
the London and North- Western Company's mechanical engineers 
worked out the system, that the very wear of the material becomes 
an element of safety. The natural or normal position of all the 
signals, be it remembered, is that which indicates danger. If, 
then, through slackness or wear, the lever which works a signal 
should become partly inoperative, the worst that can happen is to 
leave the signal at danger. This may cause delay, because it may 
stop a train which might safely proceed, but it cannot involve danger; 
and throughout the whole mechanism this great principle is kept in 
view, to be safe under any circumstances. Let cranks or slides 
wear, rods stretch or break, delay may ensue, but danger never. 

" Having thus described the general features of the mechanism 
which actuates points and signals and correlates them, we will 
now explain the system which guides the signalists in their opera- 
tions. At each end of the glass house a man is seated with note- 
book and pencil in front of an electric telegraph instrument. The 
apparatus on the right rings a bell, the man looks at its index, 
and immediately exclaims, 'Chester,' ' Stockport,' or whatever 
else the needle may direct him to say. Looking along the 
line of rail we perceive the steam cloud of a locomotive advanc- 
ing, and presently catch the bright sheen of its steam-chest as 
it sweeps with a train round the curve on the right or left 
side. Before we can turn round, the signalmen have drawn 
some three, four, or it may be half a dozen levers, the proper 
junctions have been effected, and the due signals are set : the 
train glides safely up to its allotted platform. And not one train 
only, for several trains may be coming up their several lines, and 
others may be simultaneously sweeping out from the station. The 
telegraph passes the word from afar, the man who watches it 



repeats the word aloud, and the others calmly, quietly, yet rapidly 
turn it into the practical work of guiding the train to its des- 
tination. 

"The telegraph at the opposite end of tli£ glass house is for the 
general purposes of the service of the railway. It is called a 
"speaking instrument," for it can give or receive any message 
whatever, and so far it is distinguished from its opposite neigh- 
bour, which has no tongue except for names of trains, and of 
these speaking instruments there are on the London and North- 
Western Railway upwards of 750. Every message with its time 
is noted by the one man, and every train with its time is noted by 
the other. Thus, by the labour and attention of two signalists 
and two telegraphists, during the day — each keeping his eight 
hours' watch — and of half this number at night, when business is 
slack — the whole of this complex system of points and signals 
is worked with safety and despatch. The number of operations 
that have to be performed in the crowded hour may perhaps 
exceed one hundred ; but the performance of these operations 
by no means tries the powers of the mechanism or oppresses the 
operators by excess of work, as may be understood from the fact 
that a train can be diverted from one extreme line to a platform 
on the opposite extreme — an operation requiring the movement 
of ten pairs of points and of all the signals belonging to them 
— in the incredibly brief period of twenty seconds. To do this 
on the old system there would have been required one man at 
each pair of points, and several men at the signals, we need 
scarcely say at a large expense of time and money, and at a 
considerable risk to the passengers. 

" To railway companies, a system which effects so great economy 
of time and labour is a benefit of no mean order ; and to travellers 
by railroad, an apparatus which guides them with ail but absolute 
safety to their destination is a boon which entitles its inventors 
and adopters to be ranked as public benefactors." 

We may add, in conclusion, that telegraph apparatus is fixed at 
989 places on the London and North- Western Railway, and that, 
in addition to the number of speaking instruments mentioned 
above, there are 3,587 instruments and bells, with ninety switches 
for block telegraph working, or signalling, whilst there are 
1,142 stations from which signals are worked. The number of 
wires and the labyrinth of rails at Crewe Junction may be seen 
by a glance at our illustration (fig. 19), and from this, which is 
only one of the above-mentioned number of places, the reader 
may judge what a vast sum of money must be expended by the 
London and North- Western Railway Company in securing the 
safety of the many thousands of passengers who daily travel upon 
their lines. 



MAIL DEPARTMENT. 63 



CHAPTER VI. 
MAIL DEPARTMENT. 

BY referring to trie Post Office estimates for the year ending 
March 31st, 1874, printed by order of the House of Commons, 
we find that a sum of ^446, 532 per annum is set down as the cost 
of the conveyance of mails by railway in England and Wales. 
Of this sum no less than ^136,740 is paid to the London and 
North- Western Railway Company, and it will be seen by a 
glance down the table marked " Sub Head (G) " in the official 
estimates that this is more than double that paid to any other 
of the forty railways (or thereabout) which carry her Majesty's 
mails. The next largest sum, ^52,500, is paid to the Great 
Western, while the Midland claims £45, 000, and the North- 
Eastern ^44, 030, six other companies getting various sums 
from ^"26,060 down to ^10,450, and the remainder smaller 
amounts, some as low as £16*]. The total sum of the amount 
paid to the Great Western, the Midland, and the North- 
Eastern comes, therefore, to very little more than the single item 
paid to the London and North- Western Railway, leaving some- 
what more than a third of the gross sum to be divided among 
about thirty-six smaller lines, a conclusive proof of the great 
postal and, consequently, commercial extent of the London and 
North -Western Railway system. 

The immense district traversed by this railway causes such an 
enormous quantity of postal work to devolve upon its lines that 
were the trains marked in the time tables as mail-trains the only 
ones that carried letter-bags, the public correspondence would 
in these crowd out the public. For few persons besides those 
whose interest and duty it is* to know, have any idea of the 
a gg re g ate weight and bulk of the little ^oz. packets that flow 
in an almost continuous stream from all parts into the sorting 
rooms of the General Post Office at St. Martin's le Grand. 
But some time back the post-office authorities acquired the 
power to send letter-bags by any train, and from Euston alone 
no less than twenty passenger trains per day carry the mails 
to various places on the London and North- Western Railway 



Company's line. This has, to a considerable' extent, reduced 
the bulk and weight of those which are daily earned by the 
special Irish, the Irish and Scotch, and the limited Scotch mail- 
trains, by dispersing amony many what would otherwise have to 
be carried by three. Still, by these special trains the bulk and 
weight carried are formidable enough, and the van loads of letters, 
etc., which arrived night and morning from St. Martin's le Grand, 
to be quickly stowed away in the post-office carriages, may be 
spoken of as tons ! " Books and newspapers make up much of the 
weight, but not so much as many would suppose, for the starting 
of Messrs. Smith and Son's newspaper vans (see Chap. VII., page 
75) every morning from Euston by the 5. 15 train enables the country 
booksellers to supply daily papers at an early hour, and conse- 
quently newspapers are not posted and re-posted to friends from 
place to place, as in the days when there were no facilities for 
obtaining the journal du jour. This of course has lightened the 
labours of the post-office, proportionally, with regard to news- 
papers, and it will be found that one half of the daily tons of 
correspondence, etc., is made up of \ oz. letters, circulars, and of 
post cards weighing T \ oz. each, while it may surprise the reader 
to learn that before now the springs of the railway post-office 
carriage have snapped under the united weight of the various 
missives sent by post. 

The mail-trains from Euston with sorting carriages are the 7. 15 
a.m. — Irish and Scotch — the 8.25 p.m., which is special Irish, 
and the 8. 40 p.m., the limited mail. The letters for Ireland are 
sent to the travelling carriage comparatively unsorted, and the 
correspondence for particular towns is made up en route. Some 
of this is done in the train from Euston to Holyhead, and some 
of it in the post-office cabin of the Holyhead and Kingstown 
mail steamers, as shown in illustration, fig. 24, page 73. Thus it 
is all ready for distribution by the various Irish railway com- 
panies directly the mail arrives at Dublin. 

The limited mail, for Scotland, which leaves Euston at 8.40 
p.m., is limited to four passenger carriages, one for Edinburgh, 
one for Glasgow, one for Aberdeen, and one for inverness, with 
post-office sorting carriages, and two bag tenders, connected with 
each other by gangways, thus enabling the officials to pass from 
one to another. The sorting carriages are about 26 feet in length ; 
the tenders are not quite so large, nor are they fitted for their 
whole length with sorting boxes, their chief use being for the 
stowage of direct mail-bags from London to Liverpool, Man- 
chester, Edinburgh, Glasgow, and other large towns, until such 
time as the train reaches Scotland, when they are used for taking 
up and sorting the Glasgow and Edinburgh mails. The furniture 
of the sorting carriage is nil, if we except a small rack for books 



66 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

of reference and a swing seat in the shape of a saddle, on which 
the sorter may sit when he is tired of standing. 

The most interesting feature in the post-office carriages is, 
however, the mail-bag exchanging apparatus, and of this we 
therefore purpose giving a short description. The machinery 
consists of a rope net, in a strong iron frame, fixed upright against 
the outside of the carriage window-shutter, as shown in fig. 20. 
This net at the proper time is let down, and then extends about 
2 feet 6 inches over the side of the line. A strong rope in the 
shape of the letter V is permanently fixed from the side of the 
carriage to the outer side of the net, horizontally, thus <J, the 
opening facing the direction in which the train is going, and this, 
passing under the post at the station on which bags to be 
received are hung (see fig. 21), sweeps them out of the springs 
which previously held them in position into the net, when they 
are lifted in through the window. The bags to be left at the 
station are made up in bales weighing about 7olbs. each (this 
being the weight proportioned to the tension of the springs), and 
the wrappers in which they are enclosed are of strong leather, 
secured by cross-straps. A short strong strap with an iron 
tongue is attached to each bale, and this is inserted between the 
springs of a lever at the side of the doorway. The bale is gently 
pushed out at the proper time, and its weight brings the lever 
down into an extended position. Passing over the ground net at 
the side of the line, the bales, one or more, according to the 
requirements of the town,* are swept out of the lever springs and 
left on the ground net. By again referring to fig. 20, the manner 
in which the bag is inserted in the lever springs will be apparent 
to the reader. 

Having described the mail-bag exchanging apparatus, we pro- 
ceed to speak of the journey and the internal arrangements of 
the sorting-carriage and tenders. Some of our readers may have 
travelled by, and others may have seen, the "Wild Irishman " 
and the "Flying Scotchman," as these special mail-trains are 
familiarly called, and may be aware of the speed at which they 
travel. The time of their departure is fixed by the post-office 
authorities, as is also that of the trains which wait their arrival 
at the various junctions with North- Western branches and other 
companies' lines. These trains are allowed to wait a short but 
rigidly fixed time, in case the limited mail should be late. This 
may be the case in winter ; though in summer it passes or arrives at 
the various places on its route with almost the regularity of clock- 
work. Between London and Aberdeen the limited mail stops 
at thirteen stations, which are important junctions with other lines, 
and the mail-bags are exchanged at fifty-three stations by the 
apparatus we have described above. The sorting- carriage and 



63 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

tenders are exclusively for post-office purposes, and none but 
post-office officials are allowed to enter them. Relays of em- 
ployes are here engaged in dealing with the correspondence. 
One clerk and four sorters start from London and travel as far as 
Preston ; they are joined by another five at Rugby, who go on 
to Carlisle. One clerk and one sorter join at Preston in place of 
those arriving from London, and in the same way those who 
joined at Rugby are replaced at Carlisle. Each officer is on duty 
about six hours, and is continuously engaged, the work being 
evenly extended over the whole of their respective distances. 
They return to their various head-quarters on the following night 
by the up mail, and usually perform four journeys, two in each 
direction, and then rest at home one night. 

Postenasters sending bags to the travelling post-office divide 
their letters into two divisions, according to a list supplied to 
them, and label the bundles respectively I and 2. The object of 
this will presently be seen. The bags are opened at the news- 
paper desk, which stands in the middle of the sorting-space, and 
while bundles marked No. I are handed to the sorter on the bag- 
opener's left, those marked No. 2 are passed to the one on his 
right. The efiect of this arrangement is that letters in bundles 
No. 2, when sorted, are found to be only for those towns the 
labelled pigeon-holes for which are on the right, and those in 
No. i for towns whose pigeon-holes are on the left of the bag- 
opener ; and it also enables the authorities to tell approximately by 
whom a particular letter was sorted. While this is going on, the 
sorters of these respective divisions, Nos. I and 2, are preparing 
the mails for those towns whose names are before^them, and the 
empty bags to contain the letters hang behind each man. Thus 
all passing and repassing is avoided. A view of the interior 
of the sorting-carriage on the London and North- Western Rail- 
way is shown in illustration en the opposite page (fig. 22). 

'Should the bag-opener find any registered letters, these, with 
the bills upon which they are entered, are handed to the clerk 
on duty. He also deals with the surcharged and the unpaid 
correspondence. 

Such is the internal economy of the sorting-carriage and tenders 
as the limited mail flies on its way northward. We ought, however, 
to mention that, in addition to the clerk and sorters mentioned 
above, one man is continuously engaged with the exchanging 
apparatus. 

On arriving at Carlisle, the train is re-marshalled, and the 
post-office carnages separated. One of the tenders being used as 
a sorting-carriage for Edinburgh and another for Glasgow; and 
thus the letters collected between London and Carlisle for those 
cities are prepared for prompt delivery on the arrival of the train. 



70 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

At Carlisle two sorters belonging to the Edinburgh, and Glas- 
gow offices, who have worked their way by the up mail, join 
the train from London, and proceed to do the work which 
formerly had to be done after the arrival of the limited mail at 
these two cities. On their way up from Edinburgh and 
Glasgow to Carlisle, they had sorted the Scotch correspondence 
for London into bags for its eight metropolitan districts ; then, 
waiting eight hours, they return to their homes, on the way -sort- 
ing the English correspondence for Edinburgh and Glasgow. 
The down limited mail service ends at Strome Ferry, in the ex- 
treme north of Scotland, and here begins the up mail service to 
London, winch is indeed the exact counterpart of the other. 

The apparatus for taking up and delivering the mails en route 
is now so perfect that failures to receive into the train are very 
rare ; but it may upon occasion happen that the bag is not 
delivered, owing to the official in the darkness of the night fail- 
ing to observe some well-known object by the way, a house, a 
bridge, or a church, which has usually warned him of his near 
approach to some station. It has been the case that a white 
horse, or a herd of cattle, having, perhaps, for months past fed in a 
particular meadow, has served as a cue ; and that the sudden with- 
drawal of either of them to another held has misled the post-office 
official and caused him to be too late in fixing the bag for delivery. 
When, however, a failure of this kind does take place, the bag 
is seat back by first train from the next station, and thus serious 
inconvenience is avoided. The run between some of the stations 
is very short, and hence considerable expedition is necessary to get 
the bags ready in time — we mean, to take those from one station out 
of the net, and to tie up, seal, and adjust others for delivery before 
reaching the next station. Sometimes a letter gets missent, but 
this happens so very rarely that such an occurrence must be looked 
upon as the exception which proves the rule ; and when we bear in 
mind the rude or obscure hieroglyphs, rather than handwriting, on 
some letters, and the imperfect knowledge of geography shown 
by the writers, we can only wonder that letters thus addressed 
in an unfamiliar scrawl should be as a rule so unerringly sorted 
by lamplight, in carnages flying at the rate of sixty miles an hour. 

Lest some of our readers should be prompted by curiosity to 
attempt to witness the work of the mail-bag exchanging apparatus, 
we deem it right to inform them that, owing to the speed of the 
trains, any attempt of this kind will be useless, as the exchange 
of the bags is instantaneous, and even the practised eye of the 
post-office official fails to catch it. Moreover, some little per- 
sonal risk is incurred if the head, or even the hat, of the curious 
traveller is thrust too far out of the window of the carriage. 
Under these circumstances he will do wisely to content himself 



MAIL DEPARTMENT. 71 

with our description of it, supplemented by an inspection of the 
working model kept at the Euston station of the London and 
North- Western Railway Company. 

As letters between America and Great Britain pass through 
Ireland, it may interest the transatlantic tourist to "know 
something of the postal arrangements to and through the sister 
island. We have before spoken incidentally of the two special 
Irish mails from Euston, morning and evening. The appliances 
and internal arrangements belonging to the post-office vans of these 
are similar to those of the limited Scotch mail, and they convey 
letters over the London and North- W r estern line as far as Holy- 
head. Upon the arrival of the train at this port one of the 
four splendid steamers, Ulster, Leinster, Counaught, or 
Munster, is in waiting to receive the mails. These vessels 
are expressly fitted up for this service, and are unrivalled as to 
speed and safety. Of one of the finest of these steamers, the 
Connaught we give an illustration, (fig. 23). The steamer is 
bound to start a few minutes after the mails are shipped, and in 
the post-office cabin, the process of sorting en route goes on as 
shown in fig. 24, in spite of wind and weather. Upon arriving 
at Kingstown the mails are carried by rail to Dublin, and thence 
are sent out into all parts of the island. The number Of mail- 
bags conveyed weekly by the above steamers averages — 

By day boats - 339 bags 

By night boats - 788 ,, 

Total - - - - 1,127 ,, 

The advantages of sending and receiving the Anglo-American 
correspondence by the special Irish mail trains are obvious. 
If an ocean mail steamer start from Liverpool on the evening 
of the 1 6th instant, letters may be posted in London to go 
by it up till the evening of the 1 7th, the steamer calling at Queens- 
town and taking in the bags which have meanwhile been conveyed 
by the London and North- W T estern Railway Company's special 
Irish mail, and Holyhead and Kingstown steamers, and Great 
Southern and Western Railway to Queenstown. In like manner 
letters from America are landed at Queenstown, and, proceeding 
thence by fast mail train, reach London long before the steamer 
which brought them from New York gets to Liverpool. The 
landing of the American mails at Queenstown, en route for 
England, is shown in illustration (fig. 25). We may here remark 
that the mail steamers between Liverpool and New York, which 
pass by the north of Ireland, land and receive the mails at 
Londonderry in the same way as those which pass Ireland by 
the south do at Queenstown. 



NEWSPAPER DEPARTMENT. 75 



CHAPTER VII. 
THE NEWSPAPER DEPARTMENT. 

WHEN a late speaker rises in the House of Commons to 
close a debate upon some great question of national in- 
terest, he may, in these days, be considered as addressing not 
only those immediately before him, but also the members of the 
commonwealth at large. To those who sit within the range of 
his voice his words, indeed, travel at the rate of about thirteen 
miles per minute, while to those who are beyond its reach they 
come, though more slowly, at a speed which years ago would 
have been deemed incredible. He may have finished speaking 
at 4 a.m., and on that same morning his speech may be read by 
the Birmingham manufacturer before starting to unlock his ware- 
house. 

Let us consider how this result is attained. While the honoura- 
ble member is addressing the House a dozen pens in the 
reporters gallery are busy taking down his words. Paragraph 
after paragraph is flashed along the wire, let us say, to the 
Times ofhce, to be set up by the compositor. At the last 
moment the result of the division is added, the impatient steam- 
engine is set to work, the printing-machine is fed with its daily 
rations of paper, and copy after copy of the Times of that da^ is 
thrown off. Then, about this time, to him who on a winter's morn- 
ing stands in Printing House Square, appears one of the many 
Strange sights of the nineteenth century. By the light of the gas- 
lamps the street is seen to be full of vans bearing the name, IV. 
IT. Smith and Son, or London and North- Western Railway. 
Amongst these, but near to the office door, is gathered a little 
crowd of men belonging to the coal-whipper and costermonger 
class ; and not far off stands the impassive form of the London 
policeman. These men and these vehicles are waiting impa- 
tiently for the hour of publishing. The vans are backed up to the 
door, and the men's eyes are frequently bent upon the lighted 
windows of the office, through which may be seen "faint glimpses 
of the inner world. " Presently they catch sight of the first bale of 
capies, borne on the shoulders of one of the employes, who passes 
by the window toward the door, and then all is stir and bust/e. 



76 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

Bale upon bale is brought forth and placed by these street-porters 
in the vans which have been waiting to receive them. If the 
spectator chance to have anything of an official look about him he 
will, perhaps, find himself regarded as ®ne sent from 186, Strand, 
to see that no bale goes astray, or is left behind, and may hear 
frequent remarks that "all will be right this morning, anyhow/ 1 
Those, however, of our readers who have no opportunity of visiting 
Printing House Square at the hour of publishing may form a fair 
idea of this busy scene by referring to our illustration (fig 26). 

As the vans are filled they drive off and others take their place, 
for by 5.15 a.m. all newspapers for the midland and north-western 
districts of the country must be at Euston. For this reason, and 
also because they are the most important customers, Messrs. 
Smith and Son's vans are first served, though any bookseller or 
stationer may send his parcels by the same train, provided they 
arrive at Euston in time. 

Although we have as yet spoken only of the Times office, the 
reader will do well to remember that the same kind of scene is being 
enacted at all the various offices of the great London papers, and 
that a little before 5 a.m. every day a steady stream of Messrs, 
Smith and Son's vans is setting in towards Euston. Let us now 
turn to this station. Here the 5.15 a.m. train is waiting, and 
attached to it are three vehicles, known as " Messrs. Smith and 
Son's Newspaper Vans." Externally they have no particularly 
interesting features, but upon looking into the interior we perceive 
a table extending the length of one side of the van, and upon 
this lie a number of ready-directed wrappers, while others arc- 
arranged on little shelves immediately above. Within we also 
find four or five of Messrs. Smith and Son's employes, waiting 
for the arrival of the newspapers to begin their work of counting 
and wrapping up. As the street vans come in they are unloaded, 
and in an incredibly short space of time the bundles and bales 
are all transferred to the railway vans ; the train starts, the men 
at the same time begin their work, and the interior of the van 
assumes the appearance shown in our illustration (fig 27). 

One of the London and North- Western Company's servants 
accompanies the newspaper van, and as the bundles are made up 
he receives them from the packers, weighs them, and notes down 
the weight and every particular, so that the carriage may be fairly 
charged to Messrs. Smith and Son. 

As in the case of letter-bags by the mail, so by the newspaper 
train the bundles for the nearest places are first made up and are 
ready for delivery directly at the station. As the 7.15 a.m. Irish 
and Scotch mail overtakes the 5. 15 a.m., this latter train does not 
take the newspapers for Ireland and Scotland, neither does it 
convey many other bundles to their full destination. For instance 



NEWSPAPER DEPARTMENT, 



79 



the newspapers for Birmingham are counted and made up into 
bundles between Euston and Rugby, where they are put out to 
be forwarded by fast trains. Those for Manchester and liver- 
pool are in like manmer made up en route, and are put out at 
Stafford (the extreme point to which Messrs. Smith and Son's 
vans run), and are thence forwarded by the newspaper train to 
their respective destinations. The newspaper vans then return 
empty to Euston, to be ready for service next day. 

The hour at which newspapers arrive, by the $.15 a.m. and 
trains in connection with it, at the various stations at which they 
are delivered is as follows : — 



Euston, departs at 


- 5.15 a.m. 


Blisworth, arrives at - 


■ " 6.35 „ 


Rugby , , 


- 7.6 „ 


Nuneaton , , 


- 7-30 ,, 


Tamworth ,, - 


- 7.50 » 


Stafford ,, - 


■ - 8.32 „ 


Leamington ,, - 


• - 8.45 „ 


Birmingham ,, - 


- 8.20 ,, 


Crewe , , 


- 9-i3 „ 


Manchester ,, 


- 10.0 ,, 


Chester ,, 


- 10.27 ,, 


Liverpool , , 


- 10.25 „ 



The newspapers for Ireland and Scotland are despatched by 
the 7.15 a.m. mail from Euston, and reach — 

Dublin at - - - - - 6.20 p.m. 
Edinburgh and Glasgow at - 6.0 ,, 

Thus we see how closely connected the members of the House 
of Commons may^be with their respective constituencies, and 
how science, commercial enterprise, and the wonderful machinery 
of the railway have been combined to produce this result. The 
case we have cited indeed will perhaps be looked upon as chiefly 
interesting to politicians ; but it is of course unnecessary to remind 
our readers that it is not the politician only to whom the early 
conveyance of news from a central point is a matter of interest or 
advantage. Suffice it to say that thousands of individuals are 
benefited by the admirable arrangements we have described the 
working of above ; while few, we fear, consider or inquire how 
much they are indebted to the London and North-Western Rail- 
way Company for the facilities which they afford the public of 
learning at the earliest hour every occurrence which may be of 
public interest or for public advantage, not to speak of the many 
private interests depending upon an early knowledge of what is 
done in the world. Perhaps a glance at the past may make us 



_ 



So LONDON AXD NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 



more keenly alive to the benefits and pleasures we derive from the 
system which we have been describing. There are yet some 
living among us who remember a different state of things; when, in 
the time of the long Peninsula war, rumour had come of a great 
battle at Talavera, or Salamanca, and the smiths and button 
makers of Birmingham, after hours of conjecture and debate, 
turned out to watch for the arrival of the London coach. If it 
cams in decorated with laurels, those who first perceived this 
began a shout which swelled into a loud huzza as it reached the 
denser masses of the crowd. From the narrow streets and 
alleys of Digbeth and Deritend the people gathered round, and 
hemmed in the coach. The horses that had toiled to bring the 
good news were released from the traces, and while they were 
led quietly up the Bull Ring, the noisy crowd hauled and pushed 
the vehicle and its load up that steep hill to the "Swan," or the 
" Hen and Chickens.'*' Then the huzzas were hushed as the guard 
produced the Times, and from the back of the coach began to 
read the particulars of the fight and the list of killed and 
wounded. This last was the aliquid amari, and, as a rule, could 
only contain those names mentioned in " the Duke's " despatch. 
The greater bitterness of suspense remained for the friends of 
the "rank and file ;" and, for the multitude at large, days often 
had to elapse before the fate of hundreds of their townsmen 
could be known. In these days, on the contrary, thanks to 
steam, electricity, and commercial enterprise, much, at least, of 
the agony of suspense is saved. Indeed, all true news is better 
soon than late : — 

" Rumour is a pips 
Blown by surmises, jealousies, conjectures ; 
And of so easy and so plain a stop, 
That the blunt monster with uncounted heads, 
The still discordant wavering multitude, 
Can play upon it." 

u From Rumour's tongues, 
They bring smooth comforts false, worse than true wrongs." 

Shakspeare, King Henry I V. t Part II. Induction. 



PARCEL DEPARTMENT. 81 



CHAPTER VIII. 

PARCEL AND MERCHANDISE DEPARTMENTS. 

Parcel Department. 

WE have previously (as will be seen by referring to page 8. 
ante), mentioned the parcel office in one of the build- 
ings forming part of the grand Doric portico at Euston. We 
propose now briefly to set before the reader a few items of in- 
formation respecting this department on the London and North- 
Western Railway Company's line. 

In the first place, parcels, like passengers, are of three classes. 
Light parcels, and such as need quick delivery, may be sent by 
the most speedy means of conveyance, " passenger train"; others 
may be sent by "van train," a means of conveyance inferior 
in speed to the preceding; but of more rapid transit than the 
third, or "luggage train," which is the cheapest and, of course, 
the slowest means of forwarding goods. 

The van train, as a means of forwarding parcels, we believe, from 
our own experience, not to be so widely known as it deserves, the 
public generally only knowing the existence of the passenger and 
the goods train. Were the advantages of the cheap, and in most 
cases sufficiently expeditious, van train better known, parcels 
which cannot well travel in company with heavy goods, and 
which will not bear the cost of carriage by passenger train, 
would be sent in greater numbers ; and people living twenty 
or thirty miles from a large town would find it far cheaper to 
pay the carriage of goods for household consumption from the 
town than to give the shopkeepers in small places their high 
prices for long-kept articles. Still, though the public is to a 
great extent unaware of the advantages offered by the railway, 
the fact that about one million and a half of parcels are annually 
carried to and from the Euston terminus alone by the London 
and North- Western Railway Company is sufficient to show the 
great amount of business transacted in this department. In fact, 
owing to the vast number of parcels constantly being sent out 
from, and coming into, Euston, it has been found necessary, in 



order to expedite the transaction of this branch of the company's 
business, to establish two distinct offices, one for the despatch 
and the other for the delivery of small packages daily arriving 
at this station. 

Pneumatic Despatch Company. 

We may here mention that the Pneumatic Despatch Company 
has laid down a line of tubes between the General Post Office, 
High Holborn, and Euston (a distance of 4,738 yards) for the 
conveyance of mail-bags and parcels generally. This company, 
however, has suffered from having to encounter much the same 
kind of opposition as that which beset railway companies in 
earlier days ; the Duke of Bedford refusing to allow the pneu- 
matic tubes to pass through his estate. 

The Pneumatic Despatch Company's " carriers " which convey 
the mails and parcels through the tubes are each about 10 feet 
long and 3 feet ten inches high, and are of the same form as the 
tube, which resembles an ordinary tunnel on a small scale. Each 
carrier runs upon four wheels, and a number of them can be 
coupled together so as to form a train. The mode of propelling 
or drawing these is as follows : — At the central station in 
Holborn is a steam-engine which works a rotary fan 25 feet 6 
inches in diameter, and this produces simultaneously the pres- 
sure which propels one train of carriers to Euston and the vacuum 
which at the same time draws the return trains to Holborn. 
The propelling pressure is about Jib. to the square inch, and 
with this a train of loaded carriers, weighing ten or twelve tons, 
is easily sent up an incline even of as steep a gradient as I in 15. 

The engineer of the Pneumatic Despatch Company is L. Clark, 
Esq., C.E., who was also the inventor of the system now univer- 
sally adopted of transmitting telegraphic messages through pneu- 
: matic tubes. Thus pneumatic agency seems to form with steam 
and electricity a triple alliance for saving that which is commer- 
cially, as well as in other respects, most valuable to man, time. 

Merchandise Department. 
According to the half-yearly reports of the directors for 1874, 
the amount received by the company in that year for the carriage 
of merchandise, live stock, and minerals was. £$, 169,502, the 
number of tons conveyed on the line being not less than 
; 24,017,638, while the mileage of trains run to work this enor- 
mous tonnage was 16,062,108 miles. These figures will show 
the reader what a large business is conducted by the company in 
the transmission of goods. It is not our intention to describe in 
detail the arrangements for working this class of traffic ; but a few 
general remarks may interest the tourist as he glances through 
this portion of the Guide. 



In working a line like the London and North-Western, the 
goods trains run with full loads between the most important 
places. The traffic at the intermediate stations is collected by a 
service of local trains, and conveyed to centres such as Rugby, 
Crewe, and other junctions, there to be properly marshalled and 
classified, and from thence to be forwarded by the through trains 
without further delay. 

The duty of marshalling and classifying the goods and mineral 
traffic into district and station order is a work of enormous mag- 
nitude. The business at the terminal stations, such as London, 
Birmingham, Liverpool, Manchester, and Carlisle, is both com- 
plicated and costly. Without this arrangement of trains for their 
several destinations, and of the waggons in those trains in station 
order, it would be almost impossible to carry on the goods and 
mineral traffic without the most serious interruptions and delays. 
As it is, any neglect or omission on the part of any member of 
the staff in this respect results in confusion at the various junc- 
tions and stations on the journey. The magnitude of these opera- 
tions may be realised from the fact that the company have one 
hundred and seventy-two engines constantly employed in marshal- 
ling and classifying the trains in the sidings, and that the total 
number of hours of shunting performed in the year 1874 was 
613,472, by the above regular and extra shunting engines, repre- 
senting a cost to the company, at 5s. an hour, of ^153,368. 

The importance of this work being effectually performed has 
been fully recognised, and constant attention has been given to. 
secure it, so as to avoid delay and irregularity on the main line. 
At terminal stations various methods have been adopted. Thus at 
Camden, a double line of turn-tables across the shunting lines is 
worked by hydraulic capstans, and at other places there are fan- 
shaped sidings, each siding holding waggons for different districts, 
but involving a separate operation to place them in station order. 
At some stations the sidings have been arranged on a similar 
plan, but with the gradient falling with the load so as to econo- 
mise power ; and recently a plan has been devised by an officer of 
the company by which the waggons can be marshalled in district 
and station order at the same time. This plan has been ordered 
to be carried out at Edge Hill (Liverpool), in the first instance, 
and if found practicable will be adopted at all the larger stations. 

It is not within the scope of this Guide to do more than allude 
to the working of the goods traffic at the stations, and to the 
application of steam and hydraulic power to the cranes, lifts, and 
arrangements requisite to secure a quick and economical conduct 
of the business. 

All railway companies are now common carriers. Originally 
this business was conducted over the various railways by the old 



84 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

canal and road carriers, In a few years, however, it became 
evident that, in order to enable the railway companies to cope 
with the increasing demands of the public, it should be managed 
wholly by themselves, the carriers being appointed as the cartage 
agents in the principal towns. This was a radical change, and 
contrary to the intention of the original promoters of railways ; 
and, while the result has been of great advantage to the com- 
munity, some persons think the companies would have benefited 
to a greater extent, had they continued as toll-takers instead of 
becoming carriers. However this may be, the organisation and 
method with which this great trade is conducted by all the com- 
panies are indeed surprising. The staff of men and horses engaged 
in the collection and delivery of goods in London, by the London 
and North- Western Company alone, exceeds the number that 
was necessary to work all the coaches and earners' vans that ran 
in the old days to and from the north. They have altogether 
sixteen hundred men and one thousand horses engaged in the 
goods business in London. The speed with which this is carried 
on is remarkable. The collection, transit, and delivery of goods 
between all the important towns in England is accomplished 
within the day of twenty-four hours, and between England and 
Scotland and the ports of Ireland within two days, or forty-eight 
hours. The Yorkshire merchant attends the London wool sales ; 
he makes his purchases one day, and the wool is in his warehouse 
the next. The Lancashire spinner attends the Liverpool cotton 
market, and expects his cotton delivered, and probably in actual 
consumption, the next day. The dead meat from Scotland and the 
poultry, butter, and eggs from Ireland are all despatched with 
the narrowest margin of time to meet particular markets ; and all 
is accomplished with certainty. This could only have been done 
by means of the universal system of through rates and through 
booking that exists between the companies, and which has been 
encouraged and developed by the facilities afforded by the railway 
clearing-houses in England and Ireland for the settlement of the 
complicated through traffic arrangements relating both to goods 
and rolling stock. 



THE RAILWAY CLEARING HOUSE. 85 



CHAPTER IX. 
THE RAILWAY CLEARING HOUSE. 

THE through traffic of the London and North-Western Rail- 
way, i.e. , traffic booked to or from places on other companies' 
lines, is immense, and is settled through 

The Railway Clearing House. 

This establishment, the only one of the kind in Great Britain, is 
a large but unpretending building, situate on part of the premises 
of the London and North-Western Railway Company's station at 
Euston. It contains many rooms, in most of which a number of 
clerks are engaged in working out silently and surely some of the 
most intricate commercial problems of the day ; but before 
explaining to the reader what these are it will be well to state 
to him briefly and clearly the raison d'etre of the Clearing House. 

Previous to the year 1842 (when the Clearing House was 
established) each railway company only booked as far as its 
line extended, so that on a long journey a passenger had to 
frequently change carriages, shift luggage, and get a fresh ticket. 
The inconvenience of this was keenly felt by the public, and of 
course the railway companies could not but be aware that the 
re-booking of passengers and changing of luggage entailed extra 
work and, consequently, extra expense upon themselves. Nor 
was the inconvenience limited to the human passenger. The ox, 
the sheep, and the pig (except in the item of luggage), likewise 
gave trouble on long journeys ; and with goods and parcels the 
difficulties and delays were most vexatious both to sender and 
receiver. 

To remedy this state of things, and, as it were, to unite the 
many railways of the country into one common highway for the 
sendee of the public, the Clearing House was established. Like 
all new things in England, it was received with little favour at 
first, and three years after its commencement only sixteen railway 
companies had availed themselves of its services. Ten years later 
there were seventy-three ; but in 1868 its jurisdiction extended 



S6 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

over 13,000 miles of rail. The number of companies using the 
Clearing House is now ninety-four and the mileage 15,000. 

The Railway Clearing House is under the control of a com- 
mittee, composed of directors appointed by all the railway com- 
panies that are parties to the clearing arrangements ; the expense 
of maintaining the establishment being divided in proportion to 
the amount of business done by each company. 

Here, then, after a passenger has booked through, say from 
Euston to Inverness, or elsewhere upon another company's line, 
the ticket given up at the end of the journey is received, and each 
of the several railway companies over whose line the passenger 
has travelled is credited with its proper share of the sum paid 
at Euston ; and in like manner the London and North- Western 
Railway Company would be credited with its share of a fare paid 
at a station on another company's line for a ticket, say to Euston. 
The same course is adopted with regard to live stock, parcels, 
goods, and minerals, booked by one company to places on the 
lines of other companies, only that the calculation of what is 
due to each is often rendered more intricate by the fact that 
traffic may be booked by one company, carried in the waggons 
of a second, over the lines of a third, fourth, or fifth, and pro- 
tected by the tarpaulins of a sixth ; the waggons being, moreover, 
subject to a demurrage, that is, a charge for their detention. 
Demurrage is also charged upon passenger carriages. Thus, if 
a party take a first-class carriage from Euston to Edinburgh, 
the Scotch railway company is bound to return it at once, 
either full or empty, or a demurrage charge of 10s. per day is 
made for its detention 3 so also, at proportionately lower rates, 
with seconds and thirds and goods waggons, which last are 
charged 3s. per day. In order to check this detention, servants 
of the Clearing House are stationed at every junction to note 
down the numbers of " foreign " vehicles, as they are called, 
with the dates upon which they go out and return; and the 
detention of any of these for a day or even a few hours is 
carefully set down and charged against the offending company. 
From this, the reader will see how intricate the calculations of the 
Clearing House must necessarily be; and if he refer on page 16 
to the enormous passenger and other traffic upon the London and 
North- Western Railway, he will see that if it were not for this 
institution that company and the others in conjunction with it 
must be continually handing over and returning to each other 
immense sums of money, instead of mere balances. Every com- 
pany would have to maintain a staff of clerks specially for this 
work, and these not being controlled by one general manage- 
ment, and being of necessity biassed in favoui of their respective 
employers, numberless disputes would arise, an evil which cannot 



THE RAIL WA Y CLEARING HOUSE. 87 

take place when all the railway companies agree to place their 
accounts for settlement in the Clearing House, where these come 
into the hands of specially trained clerks, working on one system, 
without bias and with one sole aim, viz., to produce the ne plus 
ultra of exactness, and who are moreover the employes of an 
establishment whose decisions in respect of disputed claims are 
final. 

Perhaps there is no commercial establishment which stands so 
purely upon its merits as the Railway Clearing House. No 
railway company is obliged to join it, and any company can- 
withdraw from it ; but as it would be found impossible to do their 
through business without its aid, no one does withdraw. It is a i 
voluntary association combined under the provisions of an Act' 
of Parliament, having no legal power beyond that of suing and 
being sued, of deciding disputes between railway companies, and 
of adjusting mutual obligations in the most economical manner. 

The establishment is divided into four departments, viz. : — 

1. The Coaching Department, for the settlement of passenger 
fares, and the receipts arising from the carriage of parcels, horses, 
dogs, and fish. 

2. The Merchandise Department, the largest in the place, for 
the settlement of goods, live stock, and mineral traffic. 

3. The Mileage Department, which settles the accounts relat- 
ing to the interchange of rolling stock. 

4. The Lost Luggage Department, which receives daily from j 
all stations in the kingdom returns of articles of luggage found at ' 
stations and for which no owner has appeared; it also inquires for 
all articles lost. 

From our preceding remarks the reader will, we judge, gain 
some idea of the origin, purpose, and working of Departments 
1, 2, and 3. With respect to the Lost Luggage Department, the 
method of recovering missing articles is very simple and effec- 
tual also, for the returns show that at least 95 per cent, of the 
waifs and strays come back to the owners. The means taken for 
the recovery of lost luggage, etc., is as follows : — A description of 
the article gone astray is forwarded to the Clearing House ; this 
information is furnished to the various stations, and anything 
which may answer to the description is at once sent up for inspec- 
tion. By this means almost everything gets back to its proper 
owner, and, considering the vast number of articles lost by care- 
less passengers, in a very short time indeed. 

To perform the work of these four departments a staff of' 
nearly 1,200 clerks is now maintained, whereas in 1849, no were, 
found to be sufficient ; but then there were only about 5o,ooo,oc5 ; 
items to be gone through, instead of the many more millions; 
which now annually pass through the Clearing House ! Its re- : 



88 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

ceipts were, in 1847, £793>7 01 \ m ^68, they were ^11,078, 284 ; 
and in 1873,^15,402,814. 

Attached to the Clearing House there is a large library of from 
5,000 to 6,000 vols., supported by the voluntary subscriptions of 
the clerks ; a capacious dining-room, and luncheon bar, and also 
a co-operative store. 

Though the Clearing House is a wonderful monument of 
commercial intelligence, skill, and exactness, and upon whose 
existence so much of the public service depends, we advise the 
tourist to be content with admiring its splendid system of adjust- 
ing contra accounts, its calculations almost infallible, and its 
balances, in which no discrepancy is detected ; to be grateful for 
the power which its existence gives him of passing on from line 
to line without delay or hindrance in the shape of re-booking, 
changes of carriage, and shifting of luggage ; and not to consider 
the Clearing House an institution to be visited out of curiosity 
as a show-place. Twelve hundred clerks may be deeply inter- 
ested in as many calculations without being in the least degree 
interesting themselves, and the presence of a stranger only seems 
to disturb the genii loci, monotonous routine, perfect exactitude, 
and supreme silence. 

Of the genius who originated the Clearing House system we 
should almost feel inclined to say that, with a far higher object 
in view, he must have j)ossessed the same mental organization as 
the human calculating machine described by Southey : — 

''The multiplication table was his creed, 
His paternoster, and his decalogue." 



IRELAND. 



SECTION I. 



QUEENSTOWN TO DUBLIN. 



THE BLACKWATEB, GLENGARXEFE, AND KILLARNEY. 

Queenstown. 

[Hotel : "The Queen's."] 

QUEENSTOWN, formerly known as Cove, and giving its 
name to the majestic harbour at its foot, is about eleven 
miles from Cork. The distant appearance from the seaward 
approach is not promising, although, in a gloomy and rugged 
way, very picturesque. But, when the two fort-crowned rocky 
headlands which guard its mouth have been passed, the whole 
character of the scenery undergoes a change, which will be the 
more pleasantly appreciated from the contrast it affords with the 
first view. On entering the harbour, Queenstown is seen fronting 
the south, and the tourist will be sure to admire the beauty, 
security, and scope of the broad, deep harbour in which his 
floating home at last finds a resting-place. It is said to be the 
finest in Europe, and is so large that it might receive and protect 
the entire navy of Great Britain. The town itself is seen extend- 
ing up the slope of a hill, and its appearance is strikingly pic- 
turesque. On landing, the tourist will be equally sure to enjoy the 



IRELAND. 



SECTION I. 



QUEENSTOWN TO DUBLIN. 



THE BLACXWATEB, GLENGAEXFFE, AND KILLARNEY. 

Queenstown. 

[Hotel: '* The Queen's."] 

QUEENSTOWN, formerly known as Cove, and giving its 
name to the majestic harbour at its foot, is about eleven 
miles from Cork. The distant appearance from the seaward 
approach is not promising, although, in a gloomy and rugged 
way, very picturesque. But, when the two fort-crowned rocky 
headlands which guard its mouth have been passed, the whole 
character of the scenery undergoes a change, which will be the 
more pleasantly appreciated from the contrast it affords with the 
first view. On entering the harbour, Queenstown is seen fronting 
the south, and the tourist will be sure to admire the beauty, 
security, and scope of the broad, deep harbour in which his 
floating home at last finds a resting-place. It is said to be the 
finest in Europe, and is so large that it might receive and protect 
the entire navy of Great Britain. The town itself is seen extend- 
ing up the slope of a hill, and its appearance is strikingly pic- 
turesque. On landing, the tourist will be equally sure to enjoy the 



90 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

splendid marine view which the heights above the town command. 
The view over Haulbowline, Rocky, and Spike Islands, extending 
to the harbour's mouth, and embracing the forts and lighthouses, 
is particularly fine. We give a coloured view. 

If the tourist decide on remaining at Queenstown for a day, we 
may inform him that the "Great Island," extending five miles 
from east to west, and two from north to south, on which the 
town is built, contains some interesting relics of ancient times — 
viz., the ruins of Bellvelly Castle ; and the still more hallowed 
remains of Temple-robin Church, where lie buried Tobin, the 
author of "The Honeymoon," and the Rev. C. Wolfe, the 
writer of the ballad on the burial of Sir John Moore. The o'd 
church of Clonmel may also be visited. Outside the hotel door 
the tourist can procure a jaunting car, which will convey him to 
the different spots we have mentioned. We would advise him, 
in this instance, as well as in all Irish towns where strict cab 
regulations are not supposed to be in vogue, to arrange the fare 
with the driver beforehand. 

From Queenstown the tourist can, the same day, pay a visit to 
Cloyne, to view its round tower and cathedral. Round towers, so 
prolific of antiquarian controversies, may be seen in many other 
places which the tourist is about to visit ; but Cloyne Cathedral, 
supposed to have been built in the fourteenth century, is remark- 
able as having been under the spiritual care of Bishop Berkeley. 
The worthy Bishop's Utopian expedition to America, apart from 
his reputation as a metaphysical writer, will commend Cloyne to 
the attention of the tourist. A steamer plies from Queenstown 
to Aghada, whence long outside cars carry passengers to Cloyne. 
Having returned to Queenstown, the tourist has a choice of three 
routes to Cork — by the Cork and Queenstown Direct Railway, 
by the Cork and Passage Railway, or by the Citizens' River 
Steamers, which take him the whole way by water. We would 
advise this last route, as a very fine panoramic view is afforded 
of "the noble sea avenue to Cork," at which an eastern traveller 
has remarked, " A few minarets placed in its hanging gardens 
would realize the Bosphorus." As the steamer moves from the 
pier, the tourist will get peeps, through the openings between 
Spike, Haulbowline, and Rocky Islands, at the fort-crowned 
headlands that protect the harbour from the Atlantic waves. 
Leaving Queenstown behind, the handsome villas of Middleton 
Park and Rushbrook overhang the river on the right hand ■ 
while a little in front, towards the left, rises Monkstown Hill, 
with its old castle, formerly used for monastic purposes, and its 
pretty wSiamese cottages. 

Passing Monkstown, a fashionable watering-place, which lies 
under the castle, and where the steamer stops to take in and dis- 



BLACKROCK CASTLE. 



9i 



charge passengers, we come in sight of Glenbrook Hotel and Baths. 
Glenbrook is also a watering-place. At the opposite (right-hand) 
side of the river, runs the railway from Queenstown to Cork direct. 
After leaving the Glenbrook pier, the club-house and yard of the 
Glenbrook Rowing Club are passed, and the steamer arrives at , 
Passage, a small and dirty town, whence there is a railway to ; 
Cork, which is distant seven miles. The tourist may land here 
and proceed by the railway trains which run every hour ; but 
unless rain has come on, or any other unforeseen accident has 
occurred, we would say to the traveller, by all means stay where 
you are — aye, even though it should rain, and blow, and thunder. 
It is presumed the tourist is interested in scenery ; and, of its 
kind, there can be found in few places anything to excel the river • 
from Passage to Cork. Passing Fota Island on the right, the 
eye of the traveller will be attracted by Blackrock Castle, which 
stands upon a little promontory on the left-hand side. The ' 
river here is very wide, and, if the tide be not low, presents a ; 




Blackrock Castle. 

fine appearance ; the elevated banks on each side are crowned 
with an abundance of wood, amongst which appear pretty 
detached villas and terraces overlooking the river. On the left 
is the Navigation Wall, or, as it is more generally called, the 
New Wall, an agreeable walk, with good seat accommodation, 



92 LONDON AND NORTH- WESTERN GUIDE. 

band-house, keeper's lodge, etc. Behind it lies the Victoria 
Park, a large piece of reclaimed land ; here the Cork races and 
horse fairs are held. At the Custom-house the river divides into 
two channels, the Custom-house occupying the tongue of land 
which separates them. We ascend the right-hand or north 
channel. 

On the right-hand side, as we proceed, are the Great Southern 
and Western Terminus (the line to Dublin), and the offices of the 
Cork Steamship Company, with a handsome stone front. In a 
few minutes we land at St. Patrick's Bridge, an elegant and 
commodious structure, lately erected. 

Cork. 

[Hotels : " Imperial," Pembroke Street ; " Royal Victoria," Patrick Street.] 
On landing, the tourist puts himself and his luggage on an 
outside car, and drives through a portion of Patrick Street, 
at the head of which, facing the bridge, stands the statue of 
Father Mathew, the apostle of temperance. We advise the 
tourist to take an outside car. There is another species of hackney 
carriage peculiar to Cork — the "jingle ;" but it is uncomfortable, 
and should only be taken in case of rain. Having reached the 
hotel, the "Boots " will look after luggage, and show the tourist 
his bedroom. Having gone through his ablutions, he may en- 
quire his way to the coffee-room. Here all needful refreshments 
can be obtained, and every hotel has a billiard-room, where, if 
so inclined, the tourist can find amusement. 

The population of Cork, in 187 1, amounted to 78,382. The 
principal streets are Patrick Street, the Grand Parade, and the 
South Mall. These streets, which, roughly speaking, form three 
sides of a square and enclose a number of smaller streets, are 
broad, but the houses are built in an unmethodical manner, and 
impress one with a sense of a want of harmony. The Grand 
Parade runs from the end of Patrick Street to the south branch 
of the river Lee. It is a fine street, even wider than Patrick 
Street, yet conspicuous for the same fault of irregularity. The 
South Mall leads from the end of the Grand Parade to Anglesea 
Bridge, and its continuation is Lapp's Quay, leading to the 
Custom-house. It is probably the best built and most respect- 
able street in the city. Formerly the centre of this street was a 
river deep enough for ships to come up with the tide. Beneath 
Patrick Street and the Grand Parade are broad water-courses, 
arched over at great expense. 

These are the only streets of sufficient interest to merit describ- 
ing ; but there are others adjoining the military barracks, from 
which a bird's-eve view can be had over the city ; and there are 



CORK. 93 

crowded streets near the Court-house, and close to the Cathedral, 
where the al f)-esco customs of the poorer classes may be curiously 
observed on any fine evening. The Mardyke is a promenade 
extending for about a mile close to the river, from which it is 
separated by fields and the grounds of private residences, at the 
western extremity of the town. It is beautifully arched over by 
the entwining branches of the fine elm trees that grow on each 
side. It was once the principal resort of fashion ; but since the 
opening of the beautiful walk along the bank of the river opposite 
Glanmyre, known as the New Wall, its honours have been divided. 
But the tourist should not neglect to take a stroll "round the 
town," as a walk through the three streets above described is 
called by Corkonians. 

There is always variety here for the stranger, in "taking stock" 
of the fashionables, examining the Irish manufactured goods in 
the shop windows, making a few purchases, and listening to the 
jokes and humour of the native cabmen, artizans, and street Arabs. 
Here, too, the American will find his ears saluted with the purest 
brogue. The best time to enjoy this stroll is between three and 
five o'clock in the afternoon. The " Coal Quay" — a bazaar for 
the sale of almost everything except coals — is also interesting to 
strangers, though not fashionable. There is here a large plain 
building, extending in the space between two streets, and divided 
by several rows of counters, on which is displayed a strange and 
miscellaneous collection of second-hand articles — everything from 
a needle to an anchor, from a flimsy cotton dress to a faded 
court suit. On Saturday evenings, the place is thronged with 
the poorer classes of tradespeople ; and then, as the crowd surges 
along, the excited volubility of the several vendors becomes a 
study curious and amusing to the tourist. For evening amuse- 
ment there is the theatre in Old George Street, very probably a 
concert at the Athenaeum (for Cork is a musical town), and the 
lately-built circus. The following are the principal buildings 
worthy of a personal examination : — 

SS. Peter and Paul's Roman Catholic Church, an exceedingly 
handsome Gothic building of modern date. 

Saint Patrick's Chapel, which may be seen together with the 
New Presbyterian Church, in driving to Glanmyre. 

The Cathedral of St. Finn Barr, the third erected on the 
present site, is one of the architectural ornaments of the city ; it 
is a very fine specimen of Gothic art. 

The Church of Shandon, however, is by far the most cele- 
brated of the numerous ecclesiastical buildings of the city. Its 
steeple rises to a height of 120 feet ; two of its sides are built 
of limestone, and two of red sandstone. It is constructed in 
storeys decreasing in size as they ascend, and in appearance 



94 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

"very much resembles an old-fashioned pepper-box." It is 
most noted for its sweet-toned bells, of which a native poet, 
Father Prout, sang : — 

"I've heard bells chiming 
Full many a clime in, 
Tolling sublime in 

Cathedral shrine ; 
Whilst at a glib rate 
Brass tongues would vibrate, 
But all their music 

Spoke nought like thine." 

From Shandon to the Butter Weigh-house is only a step across 
\ the road ; and Cork is perhaps better known to strangers for its 
: butter than for anything else. How celebrated is the Cork 
; brand, and how world-wide is the trade in Cork butter, may be 
Judged from the fact that Dr. Livingstone found a Cork butter 
hogshead in a part of the interior of Africa. 

Having seen the Weigh-house and Shandon — the former of 
which should be visited, if possible, before eleven o'clock a.m., 
I a drive to the Queen's College will fill up the time until the 
fashionable hour for a walk in Patrick Street. On the road to 
•the college, through Great George's Street, we pass the Court - 
; house, which has a fine boldly-projecting Grecian portico of 
eight columns, supporting an entablature and cornice surmounted 
by a pediment, on the apex of which is a group of figures, repre- 
senting Law and Mercy supporting Justice. About a mile 
further on the tourist reaches the Queen's College, which is a 
building in the Tudor style, designed by Sir Thomas Dean. It 
occupies a commanding site, overlooking the southern branch of 
the Lee. The library, the examination-hall, and the lecture- 
. rooms are elegant and convenient apartments. The college 
affords equal opportunity of education to students of all religious 
sects. There are twenty-one professors of classics, science, law, 
medicine, and engineering. 

DRIVES IN THE IMMEDIATE VICINITY OF CORK. 

1st. Over Anglesea Bridge, commonly called "The Metal 
Bridge," down Albert Quay, passing, first, the Corn Market, 
. recognisable by its clock-tower, and next the joint terminus of 
!the Cork and Bandon, Cork and Macroom, and West Cork 
, Railways. From this terminus the tourist will presently start 
i for GlengarifTe. Turn to the right, up Victoria Street, where is 
the terminus of the Cork and Passage Railway ; here we have a 
'view of what is euphuistically called "The Park," and of the 
, race-course and the stand-house, and perhaps a stray donkey, or 
a few cows enjoying the lovely seclusion of the Cork Park ; 



CORK. 95 

passing on, we soon turn into the Blackrock Road. Tell the 
driver to take you to Mr. Pike's, where fine conservatories and 
well laid-out grounds will repay a visit. Proceed on to Black- 
rock Castle, drive "round the ring," returning to Cork by the 
village of Douglas ; at Evergreen Cross turn to the left, and 
visit the Cemetery, formerly the Botanic Gardens, which is laid 
out with good taste, something in the manner of Pere la Chase. 
Here are many splendid tombs, and one embellished with a 
masterpiece by Hogan, the well-known sculptor, who was a 
native of the city. 

Leaving the Cemetery, you can, if you wish to see some of the 
less fashionable parts of Cork, tell your driver to take you up 
Douglas Street, and home via Parliament Bridge ; or you can go 
by the Free Church, past the Blind Asylum, as it is often called, 
turning to the left down South Terrace, and thence along George's 
Quay, from which you will see, at the other side of the river, on 
Charlotte Quay, the unfinished Roman Catholic Church of the 
Holy Trinity, usually called "Father Mathew's Chapel," the 
building of it having been chiefly promoted by him ; or if, instead 
of turning down the South Terrace, you continue straight on, 
you will pass, on the left, in Anglesea Street, the Model Schools, 
a series of red brick buildings, and on the right, the Corn Market 
before mentioned. Crossing " the Metal Bridge," the wide street 
which faces you is Warren's Place, at the left-hand corner of 
which you see the Provincial Bank, and at the right-hand, the 
. Savings Bank. 

2nd. Drive over Patrick's Bridge, and up Bridge Street, turn- 
ing to the right down King Street, bowl along past the Presbyterian 
Church and St. Patrick's Chapel, over the tunnel, and past the 
terminus of the Great Southern and Western Railway, down to 
Glanmyre. A fine day, the tide in, and your spirits gay, you 
must enjoy this drive. Go past the Tivoli Station on the Cork 
and Queenstown Railway, past Callaghan's Gate, till you come 
in sight of Dunkathal (otherwise Dunkettle) Station and Bridge. 
Here turn to the left, and you have as pretty a drive along the 
right bank of the Glanmyre river as can easily be found. Driving 
through the dingy little village, turn up the first hill on the left, 
and after a sharp ascent you reach the elevated road by which 
you will return to your hotel. You might tell the driver to bring 
you by Montenotte, as it is the pleasantest way, and the road is 
lined with the fine residences of Cork magnates. When you get 
as far as St. Luke's Church, you are only a short way from the 
Barracks, and, if so inclined, can pay it a visit. Driving along 
the Wellington Road and down Patrick's Hill, you obtain a good 
view of the city. Should it be evening and the lamps lighted, 
the effect is very pretty. 



96 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

Should the tourist like a row on the river — which, in fine 
weather, with the tide full, is really enjoyable — he can hire a boat 
at the ferry slip on Penrose's Quay, just opposite the terminus of 
the Great Southern and Western Railway, or on the ferry at 
Pope's Quay. The charge is generally one shilling per hour : 
this does not include boatmen. If the tourist or his friends 
cannot man the boat themselves, their only resource is to impress 
some of the idle lads always to be found loitering about the 
quays. These will be glad, for a small sum, to row or steer as 
required. Should he do so, however, he must not be fastidious, 
since the chances are very great that his crew will be quite inno- 
cent of shoes or stockings. 



EXCURSION I 

BLAENEY CASTLE AND ST. ANNE'S HILL, 

THE tourist can visit Blarney by train, starting from the ter- 
minus of the Great Southern and Western Railway Company, 
We, however, recommend him to take an outside car, and request 
the driver to proceed along the North Road, past the Lunatic 
Asylum, to Blarney ; and from here, after he has seen the Castle, 
etc., drive on to St. Anne's Hill (Dr. Barter's). Returning to 
Cork, be particular in ordering your "coachee " to bring you by 
the road which passes Inniscarra Bridge, and which affords some 
pleasant scenery on the banks of the Lee. 

No tourist should leave the neighbourhood of Cork until he 
has seen Blarney Castle, and kissed the Blarney Stone, for — 

" Like a magnet its influence such is, 
Attraction it gives all it touches ; 
If you kiss it, they say, from that blessed day 
You may kiss whom you please with your Blarney. " 

It has been well observed by a writer : " It is almost as mar- 
vellous as the power attributed to the Blarney Stone, that a few 
lines, containing in themselves no merit save their absurdity, 
should succeed in gaining a world-wide notoriety for a place which 
otherwise would scarcely have been celebrated beyond its own 
vicinity. " The present Castle of Blarney is built on the site of 
an older structure, the foundations of which are still visible. It 
belonged to the MacCarthys, Princes of Desmond. In the reign 
of Elizabeth, it was considered the strongest fortress in Minister. 



BLARNEY CASTLE. 97 



It resisted several sieges, but was treacherously taken by Lord 
Broghill in 1646 ; and the army of King William demolished 
the fortifications, razing the castle to the ground, and leaving but 
one tower standing. In 1 701, the Governor of Cork, Sir James 





Blarney Castle. 

Jeffereys, purchased the castle, and erected a large house in front 
of it, which now, in conjunction with the older building, forms 
a picturesque ruin. The height of the tower is one hundred 
and twenty feet, and the view from the top is veiy fine ; it extends 



over a rich and well-planted country, undulating, and intersected 
by the rivers Blarney, Comane, and Scorthonac. To the north- 
east rise the Boggra Mountains, and to the south, about a half- 
mile from the castle, lies a pretty lake. * ' The groves of Blarney, " 
surrounding the castle, look as charming as ever — 



" Being banked with posies 
That spontaneous grow there.' 



Still are grand walks, 



:< For speculation 
And conversation," 



kept in good order ; but the statues of "the heathen gods and 
goddesses, Neptune, Plutarch, and Nicodemus, " have been felled 
by the hammer of ' 'the cruel auctioneer." The celebrated Blarney 
Stone was placed in the walls of the castle, some feet below 
the battlement at the northern angle. It bore an inscription, 
now illegible, telling that the castle was built in 1446, by Cormack 
MacCarthy. To kiss it, it was necessary that a friend should 
hold the feet of the aspirant to eloquence, whilst he went head- 
foremost over the wall. As few ran such a risk, whilst so many 
" pilgrims " returned, teeming with sweet persuasive qualifications, 
it was natural to conclude that every stone in the tower had 
equal potency ; and so, for the convenience of visitors, several 
have been removed and placed on the lawn before the castle. 

Beneath the castle are some extensive caves, the entrances to 
which are now closed. 

" Oh, 'tis there the caves are, 
Where no daylight enters, 
But bats and badgers." 

One of them had been converted into a dungeon of the most 
gloomy and wretched kind ; massive rings and bolts yet remain, 
to which the miserable prisoners were chained. This horrible 
prison is not the least interesting portion of the castle. The lake 
is said to hold in its depths the treasures of the Earl of Clancarthy, 
some of whose retainers, on the storming of the castle, escaped 
with the valuables and threw them into the water. The place 
where they are concealed is only known to three of the Mac- 
Car thys, who each, when dying, reveal it to another of the 
family, thus perpetuating the secret until the title be again 
restored, and a MacCarthy be once more the owner and Lord of 
Blarney. Another legend of the lake tells that on every May 



YOUGHAL. 99 



morning a herd of white cows arises from its depths, and comes 
to feed on the rich meadows that surround it. The guide, too, 
can tell the visitor other stories of enchantment ; but these are 
generally without that sparkle of native wit which makes the 
absurdities of Killarney so refreshing. 

Leaving the castle, the tourist visits St. Anne's Hill, where 
the late Dr. Barter erected luxurious baths, in connection with a 
magnificent boarding establishment. Under his care, and in- 
fluenced by his particular rules of regimen, patients acquired health 
and strength with such marvellous celerity that the house became 
veiy noted, and was resorted to even by foreigners of distinction 
and wealth. In one of the apartments, which is quite a museum, 
the visitor will be shown many articles of vertu, given as presents 
by grateful persons whom the doctor had cured. The grounds 
are laid out in the most charming manner ; an exquisite mingling 
of fragrant flowers, delightful groves, and sweet shrubs, conser- 
vatories, bowers, grottoes, fountains, streamlets, and statuary. 

From hence the tourist returns to Cork by the road specified at 
starting. 



EXCURSION II 
YOUGHAL AND THE BLACKWATEK. 

[Hotels : "Devonshire Arms " and " Imperial."] 

THERE is a direct railway communication between Cork and 
Youghal. The terminus is on " Summer Hill/' between 
St. Patrick's Chapel on the south and the Presbyterian Church 
on the north. Trains run each way three times per diem, and a 
two hours' ride brings the tourist to one of the most excellent 
watering-places in Munster, and to the far-famed Blackwater — 
the Rhine of Ireland. 

Youghal is situated on the western shore of the Blackwater 
(near its mouth), which, at the southern end of the city, has an 
average breadth of half a mile, where ships of considerable ton- 
nage may ride with safety. About a mile and a half north- 
east of the town, the river is crossed by a timber bridge, remark- 
able for its stability, elegance, and length. It is 1,787 feet long, 
is constructed on fifty-seven sets of piers, and is twenty-two feet 
wi'd<» between the railings of the roadway. The drawbridge is 
forty feet wide, and the whole unites the counties of Cork and 
Waterford. 

For the historical and antiquarian lore of Youghal the visitor 



ioo LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

may consult Shaw's ' ' Tourist's Picturesque Shilling Guide to Kil- 
larney and Cork." 

A couple of hours will suffice to examine the ruins of the an- 
cient Avails, the tower and archway, called the Clock Gate, which 
divides the principal street of the town into the North and South 
Main Streets, and the beautiful Church of St. Mary, with its in- 
teresting monuments and elaborate window. But perhaps the 
place of greatest interest in the neighbourhood is Myrtle Grove, 




Myrtle Grove. 

where lived the illustrious Walter Raleigh. The house is yet in 
excellent preservation, and probably very little changed since his 
residence. It is built in the Elizabethan style, and is considered 
a fine specimen of that order, being small, but eminently com- 
fortable. The principal rooms are wainscoted with oak, and in 
many instances the panels are richly carved. The chimneypiece 
in the drawing-room is exquisitely wrought into beautiful pat- 
terns, and further decorated with grotesque figures. 



THE BLACKWATER. 



In the quaint, old-fashioned garden, the first potatoes intro- 
duced into Ireland were planted ; and it is said that the apples 
which grew on the stalk were at first collected, but when cooked 
were found so disagreeable to the taste that the plant was con- 
sidered useless, until, on the ground being dug up to receive some 
other crop, the roots were discovered increased fifty-fold, and 
from those few tubers was propagated the countless wealth of 
potatoes with which the soil of Ireland teems; whether Sir 
Walter, by this introduction, conferred a blessing or wrought the 
contrary has often been disputed. Having viewed the antiquities, 
the tourist should take the steamer, and proceed up the river to 
Cappoquin. The steamer makes two trips daily, each trip occu- 




The Biackwater. 

pying about two hours ; and as the scenery along this famous 
river is of almost incomparable loveliness, a more delightful 
two hours cannot be well imagined. The scenery of the Black- 
water is seen to most advantage when ascending the river. After 
passing the bridge, the banks, beautifully variegated with groves, 
corn-fields, cottages, and meadows, rise to a considerable height 
on either hand. The steamer, as she glides slowly along, allows 
a full view of the picturesque ruins of Temple Michael and the 



102 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

contiguous relics of the Abbey of Molanfide. Then comes in 
sight the modern mansion of Ballinatray, just before the river 
widens into a lake. The tourist has now a composite prospect 
of hill, meadow, mountain, lake, and river, the whole forming 
a most exquisite landscape. 

Strancally Castle rises over the deepest part of the river ; its 
ivied ruins blend with the mossy rocks, and assume a peculiarly 
venerable and pleasing appearance. The magnificent Gothic 
castle of New Strancally is seen embowered in extensive woods, 
above which rise its lofty towers and spreading battlements. 
Further on, and also overlooking the river, is Dromana Castle, 
environed with beautiful plantations. 

Tourin Castle lies on the left bank, whilst on the right we be- 
hold the massive mountains of Knockmeledown, and we can 
distinguish the Abbey of La Trappe on Mount Melleray. From 
Camphire to Cappoquin the views surpass in grandeur all that 
the tourist has previously admired. 

Cappoquin. 

Along the river, as we approach, Cappoquin possesses a most 
imposing aspect ; but this is not justified, for on the traveller's 
arrival he finds it a poor place, notwithstanding that it is graced 
with a noble bridge and adorned with the fine villa residence of 
Sir John Keane. The tourist must here engage an outside car to 
complete the trip; and he may dine at " Morrisey's " hotel 
before proceeding to Mount Melleray. 

Mount Melleray Abbey. 

At a distance of about three miles from the town of Cap- 
poquin, in the county of Waterford, and in a line almost directly 
north of it, stands the Abbey of Mount Melleray. It is situated 
in the midst of a barren waste, lying at the base of a range of 
high mountains. This position, though by no means attractive 
for persons not anxious to lead a solitary life, is quite suitable ta 
the object of this establishment, as its inmates are called by their 
vows to a life of retirement and seclusion. 

The Abbey is reached by an avenue leading off from the main 
road between Cappoquin and Clonmel ; and glimpses of it are 
had as it is approached from either town. Only the tower and 
spire of the church and its roof are seen from a distance ; but 
the appearance it presents leaves no room for doubt in the mind 
cf the traveller as to its object. Seen from the road, the Abbey 
has not a very imposing aspect, as the buildings, though very 
extensive, are not very lofty ; they are, moreover, almost hidden 
in the trees. 

Towards the close of the year 1831, the Irish (as also the 



MOUNT MELLERAY ABBEY. 103 

English and Scotch) monks of the Cistercian order were com- 
pelled to quit their monastery of Melleray in France and to 
return to their native land. They were poor — almost penniless 
— when they landed in Cork ; but they met with a cordial re- 
ception from the generous people of that city. Their first care 
was to seek a place where they might be able to serve God and 
observe their rule in peace. They were for a short time located 
at Rathmore, in the county of Kerry ; but circumstances not 
permitting them to fix themselves permanently there, they ulti- 
mately settled on their present farm, which forms part of the 
estate of Sir John Keane, Baronet, and consists of about 700 
statute acres. It was a wild, impoverished tract ; and was con- 
sidered by the people of the neighbourhood to be irreclaimable. 

Forty years ago a small cottage, which had but three very 
humble apartments, and which is still standing in good repair at 
the southern extremity of the farm, was the only residence pos- 
sessed by the founders of this establishment. But, in the course 
of a few years, this humble cottage, like the grain of mustard- 
seed, which becomes a large tree, was exchanged for the present 
spacious Abbey, erected by the charitable aid of the people and 
the assistance of many generous and influential friends and bene- 
factors, lay as well as clerical. At the same time, the farm was 
enclosed ; fields were laid out and fenced ; a portion of the tract 
was soon put under cultivation ; and thousands of trees were 
planted by the monks. 

The main buildings of the Abbey form a square, one side of 
which is wholly occupied by the church. This church is built in 
the form of a cross, and is 160 feet long, by thirty feet wide, and 
thirty-two feet high. The guest-house, library, refectory, 
chapter-room, and dormitories make up the other sides of the 
quadrangle. A cloister within passes round the entire enclosed 
area, and has doors leading to all the principal parts of the mo- 
nastery. Connected with, but extending out beyond the principal 
building, is the infirmary, for the sick of the community. Con- 
tiguous to the monastery are workshops, bakehouse, dairy, and 
laundry. At a short distance is the farmyard, containing stables, 
cowhouses, bam, etc., etc. 

In front of the guest-house, which looks towards the west, is 
a plot, neatly kept, and intended as recreation-ground for the 
gentlemen who come to the Abbey to make a spiritual retreat, 
and enjoy a few days' solitude. Immediately beyond this is a 
large kitchen garden, which is enclosed by a high wall, and which 
supplies vegetables for the use of the guests and the community. 

Year after year since the period of the foundation of the Abbe? 
various improvements have been effected in the buildings and in 
the land. At present the entire monastic pile and everything 



104 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

immediately connected with it present a finished appearance ; 
and much of that barren waste, which, forty years ago, almost 
damped the courage of the zealous men who volunteered to 
reclaim it, now looks green and blooming. Nevertheless, it must 
be acknowledged that, notwithstanding the increasing toil and 
efforts of those forty years and the improvements effected, the 
crops, even of potatoes, grown on the farm, are very indifferent. 
Some years after the foundation of the Abbey a classical 
school was opened by the monks. This institution, though 
forming no essential part of the monastic system pursued here, 
has flourished beyond expectation. At present about ioo 
students, well lodged and well boarded, for a very moderate 
pension, are receiving a good classical education. The strict 
regularity insisted upon by the monks, who conduct this depart- 
ment, as well as the untiring attention paid to the religious train- 
ing of the students, go far in forming, in these young men, lasting 
habits of decorum and strictest morality, which have always been 
special characteristics of the students of Melleray. The school- 
house is a large and handsome building, comprising study -hall 
and several class-rooms. It is supplied with several musical 
instruments — pianos and harmoniums — for the use of those of 
the students who may wish to learn music. The recreation- 
ground in front of it is tastefully laid out. Five members of 
the community are in daily attendance at this classical school ; 
and one of them superintends the students at their boarding- 
house. 

There is also a school for the poor male children of the neigh- 
bourhood, conducted by two members of the community. This 
school and its enclosed recreation-ground are always kept ex- 
quisitely neat. This is done partly with a view to inspire the 
poor children with love for order and cleanliness, as well as to 
exercise a beneficial influence on their moral feelings. These poor 
children, numbering about seventy, are never charged school 
fees ; and many of them are, to a great extent, fed and clothed 
by the monks. 

The Cistercian order — so called from the forest of Citeaux, 
where its first monastery was built — was founded in France, 
towards the close of the eleventh century, by St. Robert, Abbot 
of Molesme. St. Stephen Harding, an Englishman, was third 
Abbot of this order. About the middle of the seventeenth cen- 
tury a reformation of the order was instituted by John de Ranee, 
Abbot of La Trappe, in Perche, near Normandy ; and it is to 
this reform that the brothers of Mount Melleray belong. Hence 
the name of " Trappists," by which they are sometimes called. 
This congregation of La Trappe professes to observe the holy 
rule of St. Benedict in its integrity. 



JMOUXT MELLERAY ABBEY. 105 

There are at present in the community of Mount Melleray 
ninety-four members, twenty-seven of whom are priests. Prayer 
and manual labour are their principal employments. The choir 
monks assemble in their monastic church at seven different times 
each day to sing the divine office. They also celebrate high 
mass every day. The intervals between the different hours of the 
divine office are employed in private prayer, spiritual reading, 
manual labour, or in the various other functions which devolve 
on particular members of the community. The lay-brethren, 
though equal to the choir-religious in all the essential points of 
monastic life, are not bound to the divine office ; hence they 
are enabled to devote more time to manual labour. The habit 
of the choir-religious is of white, coarse, woollen cloth. They 
wear over it a black scapular, which is furnished with a hood for 
the head. The cowl, which they wear when in choir, is a large, 
ample, white garment, open only at the top, sufficiently for the 
head to pass through, and having long, wide sleeves. The habit 
of the lay-brethren is of the same material as that of the choir- 
monks ; but all of brown colour. Instead of the cowl, they wear, 
when not at work, an ample cloak having a hood attached to it, 
but without sleeves. 

Two o'clock on working days, and one o'clock on Sundays 
and holidays, are the hours for rising. All sleep in their monastic 
habit, and are thus enabled to be down in the church for prayer 
a few minutes after the dormitory bell is rung. The hours 
for retiring to rest are seven o'clock in winter, and eight 
o'clock in summer — the Cistercian year being divided into these 
two periods. The Cistercian bed is a quilted straw mattress, with 
a straw pillow. 

With the exception of the priests and brothers who attend 
the secular church, the schools, guest-house, etc., all con- 
stantly observe strict silence ; yet they can speak to the 
Superiors on necessary matters, though in as few words as pos- 
sible. Even those members of the community who are obliged 
to hold communication with seculars must observe silence as far 
as is compatible with their respective duties. These officers form 
but a very small section of the community ; all the others are 
entirely devoted to a life of solitude and silence. This rigid 
silence, so far from being felt oppressive, constitutes one of the 
main sources of the happiness and serenity which the brethren 
constantly enjoy. It leaves their minds disengaged, to a great 
extent, so that they are free to converse spiritually with God alone. 

The food is very simple, suitable to the austerity of the order : 
bread, vegetable soup, potatoes, and the like. Meat or fish is 
never used by those in health ; none but the sick and infirm use 
any other than vegetable food. The great regularity of the life 



106 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

which the monks lead contributes to preserve their health ; and 
thus the majority of them are enabled to pass through many 
years together without being under the necessity of using meat 
or fish even once. One refection in the day is all that is allowed 
by the rule, for the greater part of the year ; but all are not able 
to comply with it in this particular. Those who cannot observe 
this rigorous fast are allowed a slender collation in the morning. 

The domestic duties are all performed by the brethren them- 
selves — no female being ever allowed to enter the enclosure. 
These various duties are gone through in silence ; and so quiet 
and peaceful a scene does the entire monastic establishment pre- 
sent that one might fancy only a few persons dwelt in it, whereas 
it contains nearly a hundred members. 

The whole community, choir and lay-brethren, assist at the 
last office of the day — Compline, at the end of which is solemnly 
sung, by all together, the beautiful anthem ' ' Salve Regina. " The 
long, loud, soul-stirring notes of this heavenly melody, sung in 
unison by nearly a hundred voices, and accompanied by the har- 
monium, have the effect of disengaging, for the time being, the 
minds and hearts of those present from earthly things. 

Just outside the enclosure wall is a large reception-house, 
called "The Lodge," where all visitors are received. If they 
come merely to see the Abbey, the gentlemen are shown through 
every part of it. But if the visitor be a gentleman who 
wishes to make a spiritual retreat in the monastery, he is taken 
to the guest-apartments, and treated with cordial hospitality. 
Such retreat may be prolonged for a fortnight. Ladies also, who 
wish to pass a few days in retreat at the Abbey, are accommodated 
with apartments in the house of a respectable lady who dwells out- 
side the gate of the avenue, at about fifteen minutes' walk from the 
Abbey. Under the superintendence of this same lady, and almost 
adjoining her house, is the school for female children. It is under 
the National Board. The number of children is about eighty. 

Visitors are received at all hours, as two of the brothers remain 
constantly in the Lodge to attend to every call. One of the 
brothers is also specially charged with the care of the poor, whom 
he supplies with food. No poor wandering stranger is ever sent 
away unrelieved. 

In the year 1849 the Abbot of Mount Melleray founded a 
Monastery in the State of Iowa, near the city of Dubuque. The 
new monastery was called New Melleray. Both establishments 
are governed by Mitred Abbots, who are assisted by Priors and 
Superiors. The Abbot is elected by the majority of votes, and 
holds his office for life. 

About four miles from Cappoquin, at the opposite side of 
the river, stands 



LISMORE. 



107 



Lismore. 

[Hotels : "Devonshire Arms " and " French."] 
The drive along the banks of the river is delightful, and soon 
the tourist reaches the Duke of Devonshire's castle and grounds, 
which are open to visitors. The castle is one of the finest resi- 
dences in the kingdom. The gardens and conservatories of 
Rose Cottage, belonging to the Duke's agent, Mr. Baldwin, are 
perhaps the most beautiful in Ireland. The best view of the 
castle, and its stately irregular pile of towers, is to be had from 
the piece of waste land below the bridge, from which our sketch 
was taken. 




^^^^^TT^P^^^^M 



Lismore Castle. 



The castle and bridge are built of stone, whose brightness of 
tint affords the happiest relief to the dark evergreens and verdant 
ivy that cling around the beetling rocks, or spring from their 
frequent fissures ; whilst beneath, the river repeats all this per- 
fection, as it reflects back from its tranquil bosom the innumera- 
ble details of the picture. So vivid is the colouring, that a 



108 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

person who had not actually seen the reality would be prone to 
imagine a correct painting highly exaggerated in tint. 

The castle is built on the site of one of the ancient universities 
of Ireland. Here came to study Alfred the Great, in whose 
days four thousand students thronged the halls, now no more. 

From Lismore the tourist may proceed direct to Cork, via Fer- 
moy and Mallow. 

Fermoy. 

[Hotel: " Queen's Arms."] 

Fermoy is distant from Lismore fifteen miles ; and the beauties 
of the Blackwater valley, between Fermoy and Mallow, are far 
better seen from the road, which runs almost parallel with the 
northern bank of the river, than from the railway. This road is 
overhung almost continuously for ten miles by fine trees, and 
passes through scenery of the choicest rural character. 

Fermoy is a brisk business town, containing a large military 
barrack and a Roman Catholic college, one or two convents, 
and an important Roman Catholic cathedral. The town has a 
thriving, cheerful appearance, and the river is crossed below the 
salmon-weir by a handsome bridge. ' ' The famous Castle 
Hyde " is east of the town, environed with choice woods and 
enlivened by the meandering Blackwater. If the traveller 
proceeds direct to Mallow per rail, he may choose to break 
the journey at Ballyhooley, five miles from Fermoy. Here 
he will have an opportunity of seeing the fine mansion and 
splendid demesne belonging to Lady Listowel. At the entrance - 
gate, on an abrupt hill over the Blackwater, are the picturesque 
ruins of Corvenmore Castle, clad with a garb of ivy from base 
to battlement, and fitted up and internally restored by her lady- 
ship to its ancient appearance — therefore extremely interesting 
to the antiquarian. Further on, ten miles from Fermoy, is 
Castletownroche, where are the ruins of a fortress, once the seat 
of the Lords of Fermoy, built on a rock overlooking the Awbeg 
river. The castle is memorable for its gallant defence against 
the army of Cromwell, the garrison having been commanded by 
Lady Roche. 

Mallow. 
[Hotel: "Railway."] 

Arrived at Mallow, the tourist can visit Kilcolman Castle, by 
car, before returning to Cork. The ruins are within a couple of 
hours' drive of Mallow, and few Americans would like to leave 
Ireland without seeing the ancient residence of Spencer. It 
was here that, sitting 

u Amongst the cooly shade 
Of the green alders, by the Mulla's shore," 



CORK TO KILLARNEY. 109 

he composed the greater part of his " Faerie Queene," and here 
he was visited by his friend Raleigh. From Mallow the tourist 
may proceed direct to Killarney ; but in this case he will miss 
the scenery of the south-west of Ireland, which is well worth 
seeing. We shall suppose the tourist to return to Cork. 



EXCURSION III 

CORK TO KILLARNEY, via MACROOM AND 
GLENGARIFFE. 

THE tourist can book through to Killarney by this route, from 
the station of the Cork and Macroom Railway Company. 
By the opening of this line, tourists have now an opportunity 
of going through the most beautiful and interesting scenery in 
the south of Ireland, proceeding to Macroom by rail, and by 
well-appointed conveyances to Killarney. By this route tourists 
have the opportunity of seeing the celebrated lakes of Inchigeela 
— the road runs along their edge for four miles, thence to the 
far-famed Gougaune-Barra, or the Holy Lake, through the Pass 
of Kimaneigh, Bantry Bay, Glengariffe, Kenmare River, 
etc., etc. 

On and after 3rd June, coaches and cars will run, through the 
season, to and from Killarney and Glengariffe, to meet the trains 
of the Cork and Macroom Direct Railway, as follows, Sundays 
excepted : — 

Cork to Killarney. 

From Cork, per rail, to Macroom - 
Macroom ------ 

Inchigeela (stopping for refreshments 

Brophy's Hotel) - - - - 
Gougaune-Barra (giving time to see the lake; 
Glengariffe (arrival) - 
Glengariffe (departure every morning from7 

Eccles' Hotel) - 
Kenmare ------ 

Killarney ------ 

Now, supposing the tourist to have taken his ticket at Cork, 
at the station on Albert Quay, after an hour's ride he reaches 
Macroom, whence the journey is made by road. 



9 





a 


m. 


10 





a 


m. 


12 





noon. 


2 





P- 


m. 


__ 5 


30 P 


m. 


79 


30 


a 


m. 


• * 1 op 

. - 5 30 P 


m. 
m. 



no LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

About eleven miles from Cork the train passes Kilcrea Castle 
and Abbey, on the right as we face the engine. The abbey dates 
back as far as 1465, and is an imposing structure, even in its ruins. 
The castle stands a little to the west of the abbey, and is in 
better perservation. The country people use the abbey as a 
burial-place, and within, the walls, the ground, windows, and 
recesses are piled with bones and skulls. Until some years past, 
the entrance at each side was flanked by a wall built of human 
skulls and bones. 

Macroom. 

Macroom, or "the Crooked Oak," as its name signifies, has 
no special claims to the visitor's attention, compared with the 
scenes which lie before him. Leaving the train and getting on 
the car, he may see, in passing, Macroom Castle, said to have 




Gougaune-Barra Lake. 

been built in the reign of King John. This antique structure is 
altogether devoid of architectural interest, but its strange-looking 
tower rising, ivy-clad, over the smooth Sullane, which flows be- 
low, is a picturesque sight. Within the walls of Macroom Castle 
was born Admiral Penn, the father of William Penn. 



GOUGAUNE-BARRA— PASS OF KIMANEIGIL in 

After about two hours' pleasant drive Inchigeela is reached : 
the car stops here at Brophy's Hotel for refreshment. Leaving 
the hotel, the road borders the charming Inchigeela lakes. Next 
we come to Gougaune-Barra, where the car again stops, in order 
to afford the tourist time to see the lake. If the tourist likes to 
take this opportunity, he can get a seat on a special car, which 
runs to and from the lake (allowing just time for a brief glimpse), 
while the car on which he came so far awaits his return. 

Gougaune-Barra. 

This ancient hermitage of St. Finn Barr lies in a most se- 
questered locality. The lake, surrounded by rugged over- 
hanging mountains and looking like a polished slab of black 
marble, has a small wooded island in the centre. 

" There is a green island in lone Gougaune-Barra, 
Where Allua * of song rushes forth as an arrow, 
In deep-vallied Desmond a thousand wild fountains 
Come down to that lake from their home in the mountains. 
There grows the wild ash, and a time-stricken willow 
Looks chidingly down on the mirth of the billow, 
As, like some gay child, that sad monitor scorning. 
It lightly laughs back to the laugh of the morning. 
And its zone of dark hills— oh! to see them all brightening, 
When the tempest flings out its red banner of lightning, 
And the waters rush down 'mid the thunder's deep rattle, 
Like the clans from their hills at the voice of the battle ; 
And brightly the fire-crested billows are gleaming 
And wildly from Mullagh the eagles are screaming — 
Oh ! where is the dwelling in valley or highland, 
So meet for a bard, as this lone little island ? " 

On this island are the ruins of the Saint's Church, the wall of an 
adjoining convent, and the rectangular cloister. Around this 
enclosure are eight small cells, for penitents ; but the dimensions 
of the whole extent of building are extremely small. No 
tourist should visit Glengariffe without performing a pilgrimage 
to this beautiful retreat. 

Pass of Kimaneigh. 

In driving through this celebrated pass the tourist will enjoy to 
the fullest the astonishing grandeur of the Priest's Leap Moun- 
tains. The pass extends for a mile. It is a deep cleft between 
two almost perpendicular hills, and is barely wide enough for 
the narrow road and rugged water channel it contains. It is 
best seen after rain, when the torrent foams beside the path. 

After passing through the valley of Ballylicky, where stands 
the ancient seat of the Hutchens family, encompassed by a dense 
* The Lee. 



112 L ONDON AND NORTH- WESTERN GUIDE. 

mass of old oak, and through which the traveller first catches a 
peep of Bantry Bay, memorable as having been twice entered by 
the French fleet for the invasion of Ireland, first in 1689, and 
secondly in 1 796 ; — winding along its edge, we pass another of 
the O'Sulli vans' castles, still in good repair, all the woodwork 
being of massive teak. When entered, the formidable hall. 
21 feet high, bears the appearance of a prison cell, but on the 
once secret doors to the various departments being opened, many 
traces present themselves of the luxury these little kings rolled 
in. Leaving the O'Sullivans for a time, we rise over the hills ot 
Ardnagashel, from which, for three miles of the road, we scan 
the whole of the bay, the splendid mansion of the Earl of Bantry, 
the islands of Whiddy and Bere, Dunboy Castle, Rohencorrig 
Lighthouse ; and lastly, lying under the Caha range, the great 
object of our day's journey, Glengariffe, bursts on us. Leaving, 
as we are, the most rugged of hills, and entering a deep, dense, 
and naturally wooded Alpine valley of surpassing loveliness, 
reposing amidst the richest gifts of nature, one is inclined to say, 
with Anthony Trollope, our celebrated Irish author, on his first 
visit to the glen, " Oh ! what a little heaven i " But another 
two miles have yet to be travelled. Our coachman puts on a 
spurt as, winding round a sharp turn at the head of the hill, we 
catch our first peep of Eccles' Hotel, the coach terminus, and the 
western part of Glengariffe harbour. Watch carefully now as 
our vermilion coach swings effectively down through the beauti- 
ful grounds of Glengariffe Castle, the residence of Robert H. E. 
White, Esq., each clearing presenting a new and prettier scene, 
till, drawn up on an esplanade, washed by the tide, we stand at 
the door of " Eccles' Hotel," known forty years since as the 
" Bantry Arms," the " country home" of two of our most emi- 
nent writers, and patronized by their Royal Highnesses the Prince 
of Wales and Duke of Edinburgh. 

Glengariffe. 

[Hotels : " Eccles" and " The Royal."] 
To see this lovely spot will require at least three days. Few 
scenes we have ever witnessed can surpass the one from the hall 
door and windows of Eccles' hotel, though there is one, and only 
one, still finer in Glengariffe, viz., the "look out" at the head 
of the hotel gardens, which, and the walks through other parts of 
these gardens, no visitor should miss. 

One day's excursion is by a whale boat down Bantry Bay to 
the six caves, into one of which, with the assistance of torches, 
we can row for a quarter of a mile. This twelve miles' row down 
a bay, rivalled only by the Bay of Naples, with the Sugar Loaf 



J 




1 14 L ONDON AND -NORTH- WESTERN GUIDE. 

and Hungry Hill Mountains standing over us, cannot fail to be 
entertaining to all, and gentlemen fond of fishing and shooting 
may find any amount of sport. A second day should be spent 
driving over the heights of Coularagh, 1,200 feet high, on a fine 
road, and quite overhanging the bay; and, leaving our car to ascend 
Sugar Loaf and Hungry Hill, the latter boasting of a very fine 
waterfall, 700 feet high, return to it and drive home to dinner, 
vid Lord Bantry r s domain and beautiful cottage. Another 
day, the best of the three, should be confined to paddling in a 
smaller boat into the numberless enchanting little nooks of Glen- 
gariffe Harbour, where the water is as placid as a pond, over- 
hung by arbutus, mountain ash, and rhododendron. The features 




The Arbutus. 



most worth notice are : Cromwell's Bridge, a pretty old ruin, 
said to have been built by the countiy people, at the hero's direc- 
tions, in forty-eight hours, to take his army to Berehaven to chas- 
tise the O'Sullivans ; it is added that he hanged a man for each 
hour he was delayed. "Garnish" Island, with its Martello 
tower. "Whiddy" Island and the redoubts and views from 



KENMARE. 



the ruins of another of the O'Sullivans' castles. "Brandy" 
Island and the cave which was used as late as thirty years since 
to hide smuggled goods. ''Rabbit" or "Fort" Island, which 
rises out of the water a mere shell of rock embosoming one of 
the many Danish forts of this country ; if we are so romantic 
as to wish a luncheon on Bark Island, our host will send us one of 
his portable tents (this is a common practice in Glengariffe). 
There are numerous other interesting spots "such as are only 
found in Glengarriffe." 

The car for Killarney leaves Eccles' Hotel, Glengariffe. every 
morning at 9.30, and reaches Kenmare at 1 p.m., and Killar- 
ney at 5.30 p.m. The road to Kenmare, up the slope of Cahi 
Mountains, was made by Nimmo, an eminent engineer. This 
road leads up a steep incline, and affords a view of great beauty ; 
sometimes it borders on precipices of vast depth, overlooking 
glens and valleys that spread away far as the eye can reach, arid 
fade into grey indistinctness. Then we have the distant moun- 
tains looming, blue and shadowy, and we catch glimpses of the 
glancing sea. We pass streams that dash down the rocks in 
sheets of foam, and valleys looking wildly desolate from the 
quantities of great stones^ that strew them. On the summit of 
the ridge we pass through a tunnel cut in the rock, and, emerg- 
ing, are in the "kingdom of Kerry;" it is then downhill to 
Kenmare, and our journey is rapid. 

Kenmare. 

[Hotel : " Lansdowne Arms."] 

Kenmare is a small, neat town, half-way between Killarney 
and Glengariffe. The Sound of Kenmare, improperly called 
the Kenmare River, is crossed by a fine suspension-bridge, 
and is the deepest inlet on the coast. The antiquarian remain? 
at Kenmare are Cromwell's Fort, portions of an ancient foot- 
bridge, and traces of a Druid's circle. 

Leaving Kenmare, the road, as it ascends, leads through 
scenery of increasing grandeur — the mountains of Glengariffe, 
the Priest's Leap* and the Paps on the right, and the Macgilii- 
cuddy Reeks extending in magnificence on the left. At length. 
nearing the Mulgrave Barracks, we see the Upper Lake of 
Killarney glancing like a sheet of silver, and all the piled fantas- 
tic rocks of Coom Dhuv encircling it, like genii guarding their 
treasure. It is far more advisable to enter Killarney in this A'/ay 
from Kenmare than to arrive there by the unpoetic railway, 
and see nothing of the lakes until one travels two miles further 
west of the town. 

If the tourist should remain a dav at Kenmare, a visit to the 



n6 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 



industrial school of a community of nuns will repay his trouble. 
Very fine specimens of Irish point lace, Irish guipure crochet, 
and- imitation Spanish lace, can be purchased. A history of 
"The Kingdom of Kerry" (for in the "good ould times" it 
was a kingdom) has been written by one of the nuns ; it is a 
work of research. 

Killarney Hotels. (For situation, see Map.) 

[" Railway," " Royal Victoria," and " Lake."] 
The managers will be glad to assist in making up parties for 
visiting the lakes. 

We extract the following from the Railway Hotel : — •' 

SCALE OF CHARGES. 

Sitting room . . . from 3s. 

Bedroom, large bed, two persons 

,, single person 

,, two beds 

Breakfast .... 
Table d'hote 
Dinner as per bill of fare 
Attendance, per day 



6d. to 6s. per day. 
.4s. „ 
• 3S. „ 
. 5s. ,, 
from is. 8d. 
,, 4s. 6d. 
,, 3s. 6d. 
. is. 6d. 



CARS, CARRIAGES, PONIES, GUIDES, 



To the Gap of Dunloe .... 8s. 6d. 
Round Ross Island . . . . .40 

To the Police Station, New Line . .80 

To Muckross Abbey 40 

Mangerton and back . . . . .86 

Tore Waterfall 46 

Muckross Abbey Demesne, through Dinas 

and home by Tore Waterfall 
Through Lord Kenmare's Demesne . . 3 
To Carran Tual . . . . .10 

To the Deer Park 4 

Ross Castle 2 

Aghadoe Ruins 4 

Muckross Abbey and Demesne, Dinas and ) 

Police Station, New Line . . . ) I0 
Ross Island and West Demesne . . 6 
Mangerton and Police Station . . .10 
Ross Island, West Demesne, and Deer Park 8 
The Tunnel 7 



AND BOATS. 

Two-horse 

Car or 
Carriage. 

15s. od. 



One-horse 
Car. 



S 

8 
9 



19 

7 

5 
7 



19 6 

11 o 

19 6 

14 6 

13 o 



THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY. 



117 



PONIES AND GUIDES. 



Ponies, each 
Guides 



A two-oared Boat 
Four-oared , , 



5 


6 


5 





IC 


6 


21 






DISTANCES. 

Distances from Killamey town to a few of the chief place 
interest : — 

Miles. 
The Glen in Lord Kenmare': 



of 



Deer Park 
Ross Island (by land) 
Muckross Abbey . 
Tore Waterfall 
O' Sullivan's Cascade 
Aghadoe Ruins, through Ken 

mare Demesne . < 



54 



Glena Bay 
The Punch Bowl . 
Eagle's Nest . 
Dinish Island . 
Derrycunnihy Cascade 
Gap of Dunloe 
Mulgrave Police Barracks 
Carran Tual . 



Miles. 
6 
7 



*4 



MEASUREMENTS. 
According to the Ordnance Survey, the heights of the principal 
mountains are : — 

Feet. 
Carran Tual: . . .3,414 
Mangerton .... 2,756 
Purple Mountain . . . 2,739 



Feet. 
Tomies ..... 2,413 
Tore . . . . . 1,764 

Eagle's Nest .... 1,103 



The elevations of the Lakes above the sea are : 



Devil's Punch Bowl . 

Cum-meen-na-copasta 

Gouragh 

Callee . 

Black Lough 



Feet. 

2,206 
2,156 

1,226 

1,096 

5S7 



Cushvalley 
Kittane . 
Coom-a-Dhuv 
Upper Lake 
Lower Lake 



The areas of the Lakes are : — 

Acres. I 
Upper Lake . . . 430 

Long Range . . . 120 | 



Lower Lake 
Middle Lake 



Feet. 

337 
256 
197 
70 
66 



Acres. 

5,0c 1 

6S0 



The Lower Lake is five miles long and two and a half broad ; 
M iddle Lake, two miles long and one broad ; Upper Lake, two 
an d a half miles long and half a mile broad. 

The Lakes of Killarney. 

Of these we shall attempt but slight description ; they must be 
seen. For many interesting particulars, the tourist may consult 
11 Shaw's Shilling Guide " to the district. Thackeray said that a 



London, &2Torth, Western Rait»i 







THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY. 



117 



PONIES AND GUIDES. 



Ponies, each 
Guides 



A two-oared Boat 
Four-oared , , 



BOATS. 



5 


6 


5 





10 


6 


21 






DISTANCES. 

Distances from Killarney town to a few of the chief place 
interest : — 

Miles, 
The Glen in Lord Kenmare' 



of 



Deer Park 
Ross Island (by land) 
Muckross Abbey . 
Tore Waterfall 
O' Sullivan's Cascade 
Aghadoe Ruins, through Ken 

mare Demesne . ( 



Glena Bay 
The Punch Bowl . 
Eagle's Nest . 
Dinish Island . 
Derrycunnihy Cascade 
Gap of Dunloe 
Mulgrave Police Barrack: 
Carran Tual . 



Miles. 
6 
7 
7 
8 
13 



MEASUREMENTS. 

According to the Ordnance Survey, the heights of the principal 
mountains are : — 

Carran Tual: 
Mangerton . 
Purple Mountain . 



Feet. 

3,414 
2,756 
2,739 



Tomies . 
Tore 

Eagle's Nest 



Feet. 
2,413 
1,764 
i> x c3 



The elevations of the Lakes above the sea are : — 

Feet. 

Devil's Punch Bowl . . 2,206 Cushvalley 

Cum-meen-na-copasta . 2,156 Kittane . 

Gouragh .... 1,226 Coom-a-Dhuv 

Callee ..... 1,096 Upper Lake 

Black Lough . . . 587 Lower Lake 

The areas of the Lakes are : — 



Feet. 

337 
256 
197 
70 
66 



Acres. 
• 43o 
. 120 



Lower Lake 
Middle Lake 



Acres. 

5,001 

6S0 



Upper Lake 
Long Range 

The Lower Lake is five miles long and two and a half broad ; 
M iddle Lake, two miles long and one broad ; Upper Lake, two 
an d a half miles long and half a mile broad. 

The Lakes of Killarney. 

Of these we shall attempt but slight description ; they must be 
seen. For many interesting particulars, the tourist may consult 
" Shaw's Shilling Guide " to the district. Thackeray said that a 



nS LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

man who thought of seeing the Lakes in one day was an ass ; it 
was like a child reading over the multiplication table, and 
fancying he had it by heart. However, time may not permit a 
lengthened stay, and the hurried tourist had better ''gallop 
over" the Lakes in one day than not see them at all. Prince 
Napoleon performed this feat as follows: — " On his arrival at 
the Hotel, he took a rapid survey of the Lower Lake from the 
old castle, and proceeded immediately by Tore Waterfall to 
the Mulgrave Barracks on the new line, from which a bird's- 
eye-view of the three lakes is presented ; visited the waterfall 
at Derrycunnihy, . and thence by boat through the Upper 
Lake, by the Eagle's Nest and Long Range, through the 
Old Weir Bridge to Dinish Island, where fresh horses awaited 
him. The Prince embarked again, and visited Innisfallen and 
Ross Castle ; and taking boat again at Lord Kenmare's private 
quay on the island, returned at seven o'clock to the hotel." If 
the tourist does not dread fatigue, he may proceed by Aghadoe ; 
visit Dunloe Castle, and ascend Carran Tual ; descend by the 
Black Valley, and return by boat through the Lakes ; or he may 
proceed back through the Gap of Dunloe, or by Lord Brandon's 
cottage, Derrycunnihy, Eagle's Nest, Tore, and Muckross. 

Another "one day excursion" is by Aghadoe, Beaufort Bridge, 
through the Pass of Dunloe, and back by water from the head of 
the Upper Lake ; visiting Muckross, Innisfallen, and Ross. 

For the guidance of those who can spend a week in feasting 
on Killarney's beauties, we give a programme of excursions, 
which omits no charm within a compass of thirty or forty miles. 
The first five days relate to the district of the Lakes. The sixth 
excursion will afford those who are inclined to visit the scenery 
of the Kerry coast, wild and grand as it is, an opportunity of 
gratifying their taste : — • 

First Day. — Carriage to the Gap of Dunloe ; on pony through 
the Gap ; boat from Lord Brandon's Cottage to Ross Castle ; 
and from Ross Castle to Hotel by carriage. 

Second Day. — Carriage to Muckross Abbey and Demesne ; 
Dinish Island ; Derrycunnihy Cascade ; Mulgrave Police 
Station ; return to Hotel by the Tore Waterfall. 

Third Day. — Ascent of Mangerton on pony. 

Fourth Day. — Ascent of Carran Tual on pony. 

Fifth Day. — Ruins of Aghadoe; Ross Island and West De- 
mesne ; Innisfallen Island ; O'Sullivan's Cascade ; and caves 
of the Middle Lake. 

Sixth and following Days. — Yalentia ; Transatlantic Tele- 
graph Station ; by car. 



GAP OF DUNLOE. 119 

FIRST DAY. 

Through the Gap of Dunloe and return by boat from Lord 
Brandoris Cottage. 

For this day an excursion through the "Gap of Dunloe," by 
Aghadoe, returning through the Upper Lake, is one of the 
choicest the tourist can make, if the weather be suitable. This 
information the guides can always give ; their judgments are as 
infallible as the barometer. The tourist passes some fine villas, 
and reaches Beaufort Bridge, about five miles from Killarney. 
The Castle Dunloe stands high above the River Laune, and 
from it the view is extremely fine. It was erected for the pro- 
tection of the "Gap," and underwent many sieges during the 
reigns of Henry and Elizabeth. 

The Gap of Dunloe. 

About a mile farther on is the entrance to this celebrated defile, 
and near it is the cave which, about thirty years since, was dis- 
covered by some labourers whilst digging a trench. When first 
entered, it was found to contain several human bones and some 
skulls. Graven on the large stones of the roof were Ogham in- 
scriptions, which seem to show that this was some Druidical 
temple or place of sepulture in dark ages before the introduction 
of Christianity. The Gap is a strangely wide gorge, separating 
the Tomies Mountains from the Macgilli cuddy Reeks, and running 
almost due south for a distance of about four miles. On one side 
the stern grandeur of the Reeks looms high above the traveller ; 
and on the other the rugged magnificence of the Tomies com- 
mands his unqualified admiration. The poetic conceptions of 
the peasantry attribute the formation of the Gap to a sword-cut 
from a warrior giant of old. The gates of this romantic valley 
are almost perpendicular rocks, which scarce give room for the 
road between them. The hills on either side of the opening are 
spurs of the great mountains, and called respectively the Holly 
and Bull mountains. A small wild stream traverses the valley, 
expanding at various places into gloomy lakes, called the Cum- 
meen Thomeen Lakes. For the legendary lore connected with 
these places, the tourist may consult "Shaw's Shilling Guide," or 
trust to his courier. We give a coloured illustration. 

Issuing from the southern portals of the glen, the grandeur of 
the Black Valley bursts on the sight. For many minds, this 
valley has even more charms than the Gap itself. The tourist 
now regains the road, and passing through Lord Brandon's 
demesne, embarks in tne boat which he should, before he starts 
on this excursion, order to meet him, and rows down a narrow 
bit of river which opens on the Upper Lake. This is the 



120 LONDOD AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

loveliest of the three, but anything we could here say would 
convey no adequate idea of its beauty. Seeming land-locked, 
we wonder where will be our exit, as each headland, rock, and 
mountain, not before seen, come into view ; yet we wend our 
way amongst them, and our boatmen point out, as we pass, the 
attractions of the charming islands. 

From the Upper Lake we pass into the Long Range. About 
the middle of the Long Range Eagle's Nest is reached, celebrated 
for its echo, which the tourist may land to enjoy ; next the Old 
Weir Bridge ; and the channel that the boat takes flows into the 
Middle or Muckross Lake, which, though not equal to the Upper 
Lake, has more charms than the lower. Gliding on to Glena 
Bay, and across the Lower Lake, the tourist brings his first day's 
excursion to an end. 

SECOND DA Y. 

Muckross Abbey and Demesne ; Dinish Island ; Derrycunniky 
Cascade ; Mulgrave Police Station ; Tore Waterfall. 

Muckross Abbey 

is the next place of interest on our programme. A church was 
built here in early times, but was destroyed by fire in 1 192. The 
present relics are those of a monastery, founded in 1440, by the 




Brickeen Brid 



MacCarthys, princes of Desmond. Having examined the choir, 
nave, transept, cloisters, and yew-tree, as well as the beautiful 
doorway which forms the entrance to the nave, and looked upon 
the tombs of Ireland's bygone chiefs, the tourist passes out once 



MUCKROSS ABBEY. 



more into the demesne, and revels in the beauties of the "Ladies' 
Walk," and the innumerable views of Mangerton and Tore 
Mountains. Nowhere else is there such an assemblage of land- 
scapes. Passing Mr. Herbert's house, the road to Dinish Island 
lies over Brickeen Bridge, which connects Muckross Peninsula 
with Brickeen Island, from which the tourist passes to Dinish 
Island, where he can have eatables cooked, if desired. Leaving 
the car, a short path brings us to where a fine view can be 
obtained of the "Old Weir Bridge," and the famous "Meeting 
of the Waters." Resuming our seat, we shortly pass through the 




The Tunnel connecting Ross and Muckross Demesnes. 



tunnel connecting Ross and Muckross demesnes, and the tourist 
has before him the best possible view of the wild romantic 



122 LONDON AND NORTH- WESTERN GUIDE. 

grandeur of the Upper Lake. About a mile farther on we cross 
the Galway river, and approach the Derrycunnihy Cascade, 
which, surrounded by some of Killarney's choicest scenery, 
plunges down a mountain chasm, and falls roaring and shivering 
on to rocks below, whence again it is hurled over a headlong 
precipice. 

Half a mile further west is the Mulgrave Police Barracks, from 
a spot a little above which an excellent view is obtained. Hence 
the tourist returns home by the Tore Waterfall, and so finishes 
his second day. 

THIRD DA Y. 
Ascent of Mangerton. 

The distance to the top of Mangerton from the town of Killarney 
is about seven miles. From the first portion of the road there is 
no view of the Lakes, in consequence of high walls at either side. 
At Cloghereen the road runs eastward for a mile, then southward, 
and the tourist soon finds himself at the bridle-path leading up to 
the "Devil's Punch Bowl." At this lake it is usual and much safer 
to leave the ponies, whilst the traveller ascends to the top on foot. 
About a mile on, the tourist comes in sight of Lough Kittane, a 
considerable lake, singularly lovely, with three small islands on 
it. The mountain now becomes bleak and rugged, but, as we 
proceed, more and more interesting ; the views, with every foot 
of elevation, lengthening out and increasing in grandeur. On 
the left is the " Horses' Glen." We look down into it from a 
tremendous precipice, and see the little lake far below, appear- 
ing like an ink drop, caused probably by the intense shadows of 
the overhanging cliffs. Farther on, and after some tough climb- 
ing, we arrive at the singular lake which goes by the ominous 
euphony of "The Devil's Punch Bowl." The Bowl is a tarn, 
almost a quarter of a mile long, down deep in a dark gorge, 
and looking from the great overhanging steeps almost as small 
and quite as black as an ink-bottle. The water is as cold as ice, 
and as unrippled as if it really was frozen over. There are 
no fish found in it, although they are plentiful in the stream 
that flows out of it. The echo is fine, but rather peculiar ; it 
seems to ring round and round, as it bounds and responds from 
rock to rock. Putting our hands into the lake to feel its extreme 
coldness, and picking up some stones which the guide tells us 
are good for sharpening pen-knives on and whetting razors, we 
commence on foot the climb to the top, occasionally using our 
hands to assist where the path is steepest. Pure and exhilarat- 
ing, the atmosphere floats around us ; our spirits grow as light 
and as elastic. Occasionally we stop to rest, still Excelsior is the 



CARRAN TUAL. 123 

word. The ordnance mark denoting the summit is in sight ; 
the path grows less difficult ; we tread on a peaty soil ; we 
quicken our pace ; we gain the mound ; we are two thousand 
seven hundred and fifty-six feet above the sea, and what a glo- 
rious panorama rewards our exertions. Far as the eye can reach, 
an extending picture dazzles, and gladdens, and fascinates ; away 
to the east the Boggra Mountains and the Paps loom cloud-like 
and softly blue ; far on the north the Shannon gleams, and 
nearer rise the Slievemish Mountains ; on the east we view the 
rocky ranges of Iveragh, Dingle Bay, and the Kenmare River ; 
south we see the distant Caha Mountains, that shadow Glen- 
gariffe and rise over Bantry Bay. 

But nearer there are greater charms of sceneiy, for the three 
Lakes lie at our feet, and we overlook their fairy islands. The 
town seems but a stone's-throw from us, and we can trace the 
roads that converge to it for many a mile into the country to 
the north and east. Like silver threads, we see the streams and 
rivers running amongst the brightly verdant meadows ; and we 
view the gem-like sheen of arbutus bowers that gird the glancing 
lakes ; higher, we behold a darker zone of tasselled pines. The 
Macgillicuddy Reeks stand out in all their sumptuous magnifi- 
cence — Carran Tual, like a monarch, proudly overtopping them 
all. Nearer still, the Purple Mountain and the Tomies rear their 
peaks amongst the quivering clouds, and, nearer yet, the Droop- 
ing Mountain and Tore exalt their painted rocks. 

Amidst such scenes, we may echo the royal verdict which the 
Prince of Wales spoke on his visit to this grand mountain, "This 
is glorious." 

Descending, the tourist will probably visit "The Horses' 
Glen," a chaotic pit surmounted by perpendicular rocks. Ex- 
cepting from one narrow entrance, it is quite inaccessible. It 
contains another of those cold black lakes ; and in one of the 
overhanging precipices the guide will point out an eagle's nest. 
The echo seems to possess more than usual harmony in its 
ascent. 

FOURTH DAY. 

Ascent of Carran Tual. 

The view from the summit of Carran Tual is not grander 
than that obtained from the top of Mangerton ; but as the 
former mountain is more than 600 feet higher than the latter, 
the prospect is much more extensive. The Prince of Wales, 
during his visit to Killarney in 1858, went up Carran Tual. 
We may therefore follow in the steps of royalty, and order our 
ponies to the foot of the mountain, early enough, however, to 



124 LONDON AND NORTH- WESTERN GUIDE. 

allow them a good rest there, for it is fifteen miles from Killarney. 
The road leads away by the northern shore of .the Lower Lake, 
bridges the river Laune east of Dunloe Castle, passes the en- 
trance to the Gap, and gradually winds in amongst the moun- 
tains. At the base of the mountain, about five miles from the 
top, we arrive at a cottage near a river, built for the accommo- 
dation of visitors, and here we find our ponies awaiting us. 

We now commence the ascent. The path is not difficult, only 
rugged in some places ; strewn with coarse stones, it is not easy 
for our ponies. Continuing for about three miles, we arrive at 
an exceedingly lonely glen, where the mountain rises with great 
steepness, and where we must dismount and prepare to breast it. 
This is called the "Hag's Glen." The path becomes steeper; but 
after an hour and a half's scrambling, we reach the summit, 
crowned by a little cairn, the first stone of which was placed 
there by the Prince. 

The view is extremely grand. We are above all the neigh- 
bouring mountains, and our gaze is uninterrupted. We see far 
into the counties of Limerick, Clare, and Cork, and far out into 
the Atlantic Ocean. On one side is the estuary of the Kenmare 
River, on the other is the wide Bay of Dingle. We trace the 
Shannon from the great cliffs at Loop Head to Kilrush, to Tar- 
bert, and to where its waters expand and reach towards Ennis, 
and even to Limerick. We make out the Galtee Mountains that 
border Tipperary, at least sixty miles to the eastward, and the 
mountains of Bandon to the south. Mizen Head and Bantry 
Bay appear to the south-east, all within a radius of seventy or 
eighty miles. We can command mountains, hills, valleys, rivers, 
woods, and seas, islands and inlets, far as the eye can reach, 
until, in the distance, land and sky appear to meet, gray and in- 
distinct ; and the horizon is only clear where the sunbeams fall 
on the gleaming waves of the Atlantic. We discern several 
lakes, the most conspicuous of which is Lough Cara, near 
Killorglin. The Killarney Lakes, excepting the eastern portion 
of the Lower Lake, are concealed from our view by the inter- 
vening heights. On several of the surrounding mountains Ave 
perceive small tarns. The other reeks run in parallel ridges, 
intersected by glens and gorges of the most terrific wildness. 
Rugged crags hem in valleys of the most inconceivable desola- 
tion, and bold precipices rise over lakelets of chaotic blackness. 

Descending the mountain and regaining our cars, amidst the 
benedictions of our late guides, we desire our driver to proceed 
by Churchtown, in order that we may visit the grave of the 
great chief whose ancient territory we are in. We leave the 
Castle of the O'Sullivans More (Dunloe) on the right, and get 
on the Cahirciveen Road at Beaufort Bridge. On the lake shores 



RUINS OF AGHADOE. 125 

we see Lakeview, the residence of James O'Connell, brother of 
the great statesman. Farther on we pass the Roman Catholic 
chapel, near Lady Headley's mansion (Aghadoe House). On 
our left are the Aghadoe Ruins, Saint Finian's ancient shrine, 
and the " Pulpit" — perhaps the Bishop's palace. We observe 
the entrance to the Victoria Hotel, and drive on to the town, 
passing the Asylum, the Cathedral, and the Convent ; occasion- 
ally through the trees catching glimpses of Lough Lean, beautiful 
and placid ; and we see the Reeks 

' ' Lift to the clouds their craggy heads on high, 
Crown'd with tiaras fashion'd in the sky. 
In vesture clad of soft ethereal hue, 
The Purple Mountains rise to view, 

With Dunloe's Gap." 

FIFTH DA Y. 

Ruins of Aghadoe ; Ross Island and West Demesne ; Innisf alien 
Island ; C? Sullivan" s Cascade; and Caves of the Middle 
lake. 

Ruins of Aghadoe. 

The remains consist of a church, a round tower, and a round 
castle of the round tower. Now that but a portion of the basement 
story remains, it is quite easy to ascend, the height of the frag- 
ment being only about twelve feet. It measures in outer circum- 
ference fifty-two feet, and the thickness of its wall was three feet 
and a half. The stones, laid in regular courses, are large and well 
dressed ; the masonry was much better than that of either the 
adjacent church or castle. 

The castle called the " Bishop's Chair," as the round tower is 
called the "Pulpit," is about thirty feet in height : its walls are 
seven feet in thickness, and contain a flight of stairs within their 
space. It stands within an earthen enclosure ; and from this cir- 
cumstance, united with its round configuration, is thought to be- 
long to the ninth century. Its similitude to the Saxon castles, 
which almost invariably were round and erected on a tumulus, 
has often been remarked. 

The cathedral consists of nave and choir, divided by a wall, 
which evidently once was pierced by a door. The entire length 
is about eighty feet long by twenty broad ; and the nave appears 
to have been the older division, for they are of unequal antiquity. 
It was lighted by two windows, round-headed and small. It is 
in a very ruinous state, much of the south wall having fallen. 
The choir was lighted by a narrow double lancet over a place 
where the altar stood ; another twin window in the side wall 
imparts a dim "religious light." It contains a few tombs. 



126 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

This portion of the building is thought to belong to the thirteenth 
century, and the architecture of the nave refers to the seventh. 

Ross Island. 

Ross Island belongs to the Kenmare estate ; it is laid out 
with walks and carriage-drives in a tasteful and picturesque 
manner. Its area is about 150 statute acres, and it is about 
a mile in length ; it is separated from the mainland by a narrow 
strait, crossed near the castle by a bridge. Shrubberies, flower- 
beds, lawns, and groves diversify the land ; and wherever the 
view is especially fine, seats or summer-houses are arranged 
accommodate the visitor. The shores of the island are worn 
into every variety of creek, promontory, and bay — deeply-in- 
dented rocks, fantastic and curious ; and a walk or a sail along 
the margin of the waters is a most enjoyable treat. In this in- 
teresting island the tourist may spend many delightful hours, or, if 
time permits, many as happy days ; and so lovely is the place 
that the spectator is fain to believe its charms of rocks and wood 
and waters cannot be surpassed. 

Ross Castle is a noble ruin, picturesquely clothed with ivy. 
It was the stronghold of the O'Donoghues. The castle stood 
a siege against the Parliamentary forces in Cromwell's time, 
but surrendered when vessels were brought from Castlemaine 
and launched on the lake ; for an old prophecy foretold that it 
would fall when surrounded by ' - ships of war. " We give a view. 
The keep of the castle is nearly perfect ; it consists of a mas- 
sive square tower, with a spiral stone staircase ascending to the 
top. Originally it was enclosed by an embattled curtain wall, 
having round flanking towers at each side. It is one of the most 
prominent ornaments to the lake, yet not less remarkable for its 
intrinsic beauty as a ruin than interesting from its associations, 
having been the palace of O'Donoghue. It is the focus of nine- 
tenths of those racy stories which waft us away from the hard 
dulness of every-day life to the refreshing regions of fancy — 
which, by changing the aliment of the mind, renew its powers, 
as change of diet restores vigour to the body. 

Innisfallen Island lies about one mile and a half from the shore, 
between Ross and Rabbit Islands. It is the loveliest of the islets, 
and, as you approach in a boat, looks as if it were growing out 
of the lake, by reason of the density of its evergreen groves and 
underwood. The ruins of Innisfallen Abbey, founded by St. 
Finian, in the seventh century, claim attention for ' ' sweet 
Innisfallen. " Here for centuries were preserved the "Annals/' 
the great record of Irish history, relating (many hundred years 
after the event) the conversion of the Celts to Christianity by 
St. Patrick. 



VALENTIA. 127 



? Sullivan's Cascade is reached after a row across the lake. 
A rugged path through a rich wood leads to the waterfall, which 
is heard afar off, like the tones of a great organ, long before it 
comes in sight. The height of the fall is seventy feet, and it has 
three distinct leaps. Having viewed before re-embarking the huge 
" Royal Oak," the tourist will in his boat glide along the shore 
to the thrice-lovely Bay of Glena. The grounds about the cot- 
tage, built for the use of visitors by Lady Kenmare, are ex- 
quisitely laid, and a fresh combination of lake and mountain 
scenery is beheld, the best, we believe, on the Lower Lake. 
The famous Killarney stag-hunts usually took place on this shore. 
If time allow, he may spend some delightful hours in voyaging 
to the smaller islands. Over the ample bosom of the Lower 
Lake about thirty islands are nestled. The one formerly 
known as the Gun Rock is, since the Prince of Wales's visit, 
called Prince's Island. O'Donoghue's Horse, one of the most 
celebrated rocks, was blown down during a storm, and lies 
buried in the waters ; but his Stable yet survives. The Lower 
Lake is five miles long by two and a half wide. It is' also 
known as Lough Leane (the Lake of Learning). Its scenery 
is of a softer and more sylvan description than the Upper Lake, 
yet, though tamer, little less bewitching, for to the arid dignity 
of mountain aspect is united the gentle tranquillity of rural 
scenes ; and as we urge our boat along by the eastern shore, 
we behold all the animation that sheep and cattle give to a 
picture, harmonizing with a background of craggy mountains, 
rich with all the splendour of light and shadow and colouring, 
and looking doubly high because of the placid lake that sleeps at 
their base and mirrors their immensity. We give a coloured 
view of the Lower Lake. 

SIXTH AND FOLLO WING DA VS. 
Valentia. 
The tourist ought not to omit seeing Valentia, where he can 
be shown the Transatlantic Telegraph Station. The distance 
from Killarney is forty-five miles ; and a mail car leaves Kil- 
larney every morning at six for Cahirciveen (fare, six shillings). 
The first half of the journey is uninteresting, but the approach to 
Dingle Bay is very fine. Cahirciveen is small, but very neat ; 
and the harbour, which is between the island and the mainland, 
is one of the finest in the kingdom. There is an hotel here, and 
another at the ferry landing at Ventry. Bray Head, the 
Skellings, and the mountain ranges are the chief features of the 
scenery. At Dowlas Head are some fine caves, an excursion to 
which in calm weather is most delightful. On the opposite side 



128 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 



of Dingle Bay is Dunmore Head, the nearest point to American 
shores. But the Telegraph Station is the great object of interest. 




Valentia. 

The tourist can, if he does not mind a little roughing, return 
from Valentia up the Kenmare estuary to Kenmare, and thence 
to Killarney, in one of the fishing smacks along the coast. By 
this route he will see some of the best coast sceneiy in the 
United Kingdom, as he sails by the islands of Puffin, the 
Skellings, Dinish, and many others. 

If he object to the sea voyage, he may return by Derrynane, 
where the former residence of Daniel O'Connell will claim his 
attention, as well as Staigne Fort, one of the most remarkable 
antiquities of Ireland. 

From Killarney the tourist can go direct to Dublin, via Mal- 
low. 

Tourists who intend taking a tour through Connemara and the 



K1LLARNEY TO DUBLIN. 129 

west of Ireland, do not proceed from here to Dublin, but to 
Galway, via Mallow, Limerick, Kilrush, Kilkee, Cliffs of Moher, 
Lisdoonvarna, and Ballyvaughan. 



SECTION II. 

KILLARNEY TO DUBLIN, via MALLOW AND LIMERICK 
JUNCTION. 

DURING the season, commencing about the 16th of May 
and closing with September, through carriages run direct 
from Killarney to Dublin, but in the winter passengers must 
change carriages at Mallow Junction. 

From Killarney the line proceeds to Headford, Shinnagh, 
Mill Street, thence to 

Kanturk 

[Hotel : " Tierny Arms "], 
which has an old castle, built by one of the McCarthys, kings 
of Minister. 

Mallow (Junction).* 

Passengers for Limerick may change trains here, or a 
Charleville. 

Leaving Mallow we next pass Buttevant, and the next 
station we come to is 

Charleville, 

close to which is Charleville Castle, the seat of the Earl of 
Charleville. This station forms the junction of the 

Cork and Limerick Direct Railways. 

The next station, after a run of five miles, is 

Kilmallock, 

once a place of great importance in Ireland, but now degene- 
rated to a poor insignificant town, with only a few shops and 
scaicely any trade. The town has many historical events 
* See p. 108. 



130 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE, 

connected with the cruel Desmonds, whose. ancient iesidence 
was here. There are still traces left also of an old wall, which 
Edward III. built round the town. Leaving Kilmallock, we 
next reach 

Knocklong. 
A short distance on the right from the station stands a 
small isolated police-barrack. This was attacked by Fenians, 
and magnified into a great affair by the newspapers. The 
reader will see how very small a force would be necessary to 
attack so poor a looking sentry-box ; two or three strong men 
would carry the barrack home with them. Passing from the 
county of Limerick, we enter Tipperary, on the line to 

Limerick Junction, 
107 miles from Dublin, and \o\ from the last station. On the 
right of the line, the Galtee Mountains are seen in the distance, 
and on the left is Ballykisteen House, the Irish seat of the 
Earl of Derby. Passing Dundrum Station, we reach 

Goold's Cross, 
a station g^ miles from Dublin, from whence is obtained 
a distant view of the celebrated Rock of Cashel, standing about 
four miles and a half to the right, and crowned with a famous 
group of ruins, comprising a cathedral, monastery, small church, 
round tower, and castle. In ancient times, this rock was the 
site of the palace of the kings of Munster. Cashel is a place 
of great antiquity ; nothing is known of the date of its founda- 
tion, and very little of its early history. It was the seat of the 
kings of Munster, and a very early bishopric, the royal and 
episcopal offices being combined. In 1172 Henry II. con- 
voked a synod of the Irish prelates, which met in this city to 
acknowledge his sovereignty and confirm to him and his 
successors the kingdom of Ireland, a decree which was subse- 
quently ratified by Pope Alexander. After the rebellion of 
the seventeenth century, the town was occupied by the 
Royalists; but, in 1647, it was stormed and taken by Lord 
Inchiguin for the Parliament. Most of the houses in the town 
are poorly built, but some improvements have lately been 
made. Three miles before reaching Goold's Cross, the line runs 
through Dundrum demesne, the seat of Lord Hawarden. The 
park is one of the largest in Ireland, containing 2,400 acres, 
and famous for its deer. The next station is 

Thurles. 

But two miles short of it, the ruins of Holy Cross Abbey 



stand on the right. These are said to be the finest remains 
of Gothic architecture in the country. The abbey was founded 
in 1 182, and is said to have contained a fragment of the true 
cross of Calvary, presented by Pope Pascal to Donald O'Brien, 
grandson of Brien Boru. 

At Thurles the Danes were defeated by the Irish in the tenth 
century. The Marquis of Ormond takes a title from this 
place. We now see the Devil's-Bit-Mountains, on the left. 
They are so-called from a legend which says that the devil, 
being benighted andhungry on theirsummits, bit a piece out of 
the mountain, but finding it too hard and tough to eat, dropped 
it in disgust ; the bit forms the celebrated Rock of Cashel, 
so says the legend. The tourist will observe a gap in part of 
the range, which is said to have been the Satanic mouthful. 
Seventy-five miles from Dublin is 

Templemore, 

the next station. On the left stands the seat cf Sir J. Carden, 
called the Priory, beautifully situated on an eminence in a 
finely-wooded park. This small town was founded by the 
Knights-Templar, who have left an interesting relic of one of 
their preceptories, now forming one of the entrances to the 
Priory. A journey of eight miles takes us out of Tipperary into 
Queen's County, and passing Parsonstown Junction, where the 
line branches off to Limerick, Roserca, and Mountrath, several 
old castles are passed in the run to 

Maryborough, 

50! miles from Dublin, a pleasant and prosperous town, 
situated on a small affluent of the river Barrow. The town 
is very ancient, and the chief one of Queen's County. Before 
the Union it returned two members to the Irish Parliament. 
The town was founded during the reign, of Philip and Mary, 
and named, in honour of the sovereign, Maryborough. The 
next station is 

Portarlington, 

formerly called Coltodry, 41 J miles from Dublin. It is 
situated on the Barrow River, and sends one member to 
Parliament. Charles II. gave this town to Lord Arlington, 
who erected a small port on the Barrow, hence the modern 
name Portarlington. William III. afterwards gave it to 
General Rouvigny, when it became the home of numerous 
French and Flemish Protestants- The Dawson family, of 
Emo Park, take their title of Marquis from this place. 



132 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

The late Duke of Wellington, and his brother, the Marquis 
of Wellesley, were educated in the town. 

Monasterevan 

is entered by means of an iron viaduct 500 feet long, which 
crosses the Barrow River, on which the town is situated. 
Hence a nice view can be obtained of Moore Abbey, the seat of 
the Marquis of Drogheda, to whom the town of Monastereven 
belongs. The Abbey stands on the site of an old Priory, and 
the demesne surrounding it is finely cultivated. The next 
station is 

Kildare, 

a poor place, and anything but the smiling place imagination 
would have pictured as the home of " Sweet Norah," whom 
the song says was its pride. The town is half concealed from 
the railway by a ridge, on the summit of which rises a round 
tower, 132 feet in height. This tower is in a very perfect 
state, and forms one of the most conspicuous objects of the 
town. The original name of the town was Kill-dara, " the 
Church of the Oak." It was founded as early as the sixth 
century, and was repeatedly ravaged by the Danes and by 
the Kings of Leinster. At a later period it was taken by the 
English, who built a strong castle, and held a Parliament here 
in 1339. James II. granted a charter to the town. The 
place is now the property of the Duke of Leinster, to whom 
it gives the title of Marquis. Between Kildare and the next 
station, the line crosses 

The Curragh of Kildare, 

where horse-races are held twice a year. George IV. visited 
these races when on a tour in Ireland. The Curragh is six 
miles long by two broad, and has been the scene of many a 
desperate struggle. In 1234 Lord Montemarisco fell during 
the insurrection, headed by the Earl of Pembroke. In 1406 
the Irish, led by the Prior of Connell, were defeated by the 
English. Again, in 1789, the Irish volunteers assembled 
here ; and the United Irishmen also encamped here in 1804. 
Some mounds, still visible, are supposed to be the graves of 
fallen warriors. The Curragh is the property of the Crown. 
It is the site of a camp of instruction, where a number of 
troops are "under canvas." The year 1861 was rendered 
memorable by the temporary sojourn here of the Prince of 
Wales, to acquire that thorough knowledge of military dis- 
cipline so essential for the heir-apparent to the throne. 
Distant two and a half miles is the station of 



SALLINS—HAZLE-HA TCH—CL ONDALKIN. 1 33 

Newbridge, 

twenty-five miles from Dublin. This small town is rapidly 
rising into importance. Sixty years ago it was not, and until 
the close of the Russian war, it only boasted of a single row of 
houses. Since that time the number of inhabitants and houses 
have increased fivefold. This is considered to be owing to its 
being the centre of communication between Dublin and the 
military camp on the Curragh. In approaching the next 
station, 

Sallins, 

and five miles from that point, the Hill of Allen rises 300 feet 
out of the Bog of Allen. This is said to be the scene of one 
of Ossian's poems, and the reputed residence of Phin M'Coul 
(Esquire). Nearer Sallins, the line crosses the Liffey by a 
wooden bridge 270 feet in length, and afterwards enters a deep 
cutting. Passing Straffan, we leave the county of Kildare, and 
approach the next station, 

Hazle-hatch, 

ten miles from Dublin. A mile to the left of this station is 
Celbridge Abbey, formerly the home of Esther Vanhomrigh, 
known as the original of Vanessa, in Dean Swift's poem of 
" Cadenus and Vanessa." A bower of laurels is still pointed 
out as the spot in the grounds of the abbey where the cele- 
brated Dean and Vanessa frequently conversed. Passing 
Lucan, the next station is 

Clondalkin, 

a small village, four and a half miles from Dublin. Here may 
be seen a round tower, 84 feet high, said to be one of the 
most perfect in Ireland. Here, also, stood the palace of the 
Danish King A wliffe, better known as Dunawley. It was also 
the site of a monastery, founded in early times. In 1797 a 
fearful gunpowder explosion occurred in the vicinity, the 
effects of which were felt for a great distance. About a mile 
from Clondalkin stands Ballyfermot Castle and Church, and 
on the opposite side the tourist soon passes the Military 
Hospital of Kilmainham, established in 1675, said to be on 
the site of a priory of Knights-Templar, founded by Earl 
Strongbow in 1174. The final stage of the journey is Dublin. 
For description see page 184. 



SECTION III. 

KILLARNEY TO GALWAY, via LIMERICK, KILRTJSH, 
KILKEE, CLIFFS OF MOHER, AND LISDOONVARNA. 

(Same as Section II. up to Charleville.) 

LEAVING the station at Charleville, we enter the county 
of Limerick, and pass on to the station of Bruree, from 
thence to Rosstemple, Croom, and Patrick's Well, at which 
point the line unites with the Limerick and Foynes Railway. 
A distance of 7J miles further conducts the traveller to 

Limerick. 

[Hotels : "Cruise's Royal," " George."] 

Limerick (population, in 1871, 39,828), the fourth city in 
Ireland as to wealth, size, and population, is situated on the 
Shannon, about eighty miles from the sea. It is the oldest 
corporate town in Ireland, for which reason — as well as for 
the prominent part it has played in the vicissitudes of Irish 
history — Limerick people are very proud of their native city. 
It was besieged several times, and the "old castle," which 
dates from the reign of John, by whose direction it was built, 
shows still the breaches made by the Parliamentary cannon. 
This fine old ruin, together with the stone on which the 
famous treaty of 1691 was signed, the cathedral, with its 
steeple and monuments, and some of the houses in the older 
portions of the town, are the principal antiquities that claim 
the tourist's attention. There are three districts comprised 
within the present corporate limits, each built at different 
periods and having peculiar characteristics. The oldest is 
called English-town, having been built by the English settlers 
in the reign of John. A century later, the native Irish under 
Bruce attacked and burned the suburbs, but, failing in their 
assaults on the walls, settled down outside, and finally fortified 
their position, which was subsequently known as Irish-town. 
New-town, in which are now the principal streets, has been 
built within the last fifty years. Here dwell most of those 
who have any pretensions to wealth. At present, we regret 
to say, Limerick is not a prosperous town. George's Street, 
extending from the Military Walk, through Richmond Place, 
to Patrick's Street, runs almost the entire length of New- 
town, and is intersected by several shorter streets. There 
are two fine monuments in this district — a bronze statue of 



LIMERICK. 135 



Daniel O'Connell in Richmond Place, and, in Percy Square, 
a memorial column to the Lord Monteagle. 

The principal bridges are the two spanning the Shannon — 
Thomond Bridge, connecting English-town with the county 
of Clare ; and Wellesley Bridge, the greatest ornament of the 
city, and the finest bridge, perhaps, in Ireland. On this 
bridge stands a statue to the late Lord Fitz-Gibbon, who fell 
at Balaclava ; and from its centre a very fine view is obtained 
of the cannon-marked walls of the old castle, and the cathe- 
dral in the foreground. At the Clare extremity of Thomond 
Bridge, the " Treaty Stone," on which the famous "violated 
treaty" of 1691 was signed, rests on a pedestal. The cathedral 
dates as far back as the twelfth century, and contains many 
venerable tombs, but the interior is otherwise void of interest ; 
the Catholic sculptures of course disappeared in the adapta- 
tion of the building for the services of Protestantism. The 
steeple is 120 feet high, and has a peal of bells which are 
fabled to have been brought from Italy at an early date, and 
have of course a legend in connection with them. 

The castle was built by the direction of King John shortly 
after his visit to Ireland, to protect the Thomond Gate, which 
was the only entrance to the ancient city. Seven towers with 
walls of massive thickness still remain, and are connected 
with each other by walls of still greater strength.' The court- 
yard within the fortifications has been recently fitted up as a 
barrack. 

The principal public buildings are the City and County 
Court Houses, the Town Hall, and St. John's Roman Catholic 
Cathedral. This last building is a very handsome example of 
modern ecclesiastical architecture, and was built entirely by 
means of the voluntary contributions of the people. The 
" better half," or other gentle companion of the tourist, will 
of course secure specimens of Limerick lace before leaving 
the City of the Violated Treaty. 

An enjoyable excursion may be made to Castleconnel, in it- 
self a poor straggling village, but contiguous to some elegant 
country seats, and having the additional attractions of a chaly- 
beate spa, the ruins of a castle picturesquely built on a 
detatched rock, together with a charming view of the most 
beautiful part of the Shannon — the rapids of Doonass. The 
Shannon here, with a greater volume of water than the four 
largest rivers of England put together, rushes headlong for 
nearly half a mile over and through a vast aggregation of rocks, 
presenting a spectacle approaching the sublime. 

Castleconnel can be easily reached by a branch line of the 
Limerick and Waterford Railway. The train runs near 



136 L ONE ON AND NOR TH- WESTERN G UIDE. 

the course of the river the whole way, giving the traveller 
views of Lord Clare's demesne (the gardens of which are the 
finest in the county), Hermitage, the seat of Lord Massey, 
and Doonass. 

A second excursion maybe made to Adare Castle, ten miles 
from the city, on the Limerick and Foynes Railway. The 
structure is a noble monument of Irish skill. The extensive 
gardens and spacious pleasure-grounds, the hoary ruins of the 
old castle of the Desmonds and three abbeys, together with 
the natural beauty of the spot, form a combination of charms 
by which the tourist's half-hour's ride will be well repaid. 
The Augustinian abbey, which stands in the foreground, has 
its walls and cloisters almost entire. The Franciscan abbey, 
which forms the background of the view, has been repaired, 
and is used as the parish church ; while the Abbey of the 
Holy Trinity is now used as a Roman Catholic Chapel. The 
excursion to this interesting place can also be performed by 
road in a hired carriage. 

Kilrush. 

[Hotels : ' Vandeleur Arms " and ' ' Commercial."] 
Returning to Limerick, the tourist may now take the 
steamer to Kilrush direct, forty-eight miles; f jr hour of sailing, 
see monthly time-table, which may be found in the principal 
hotels. From the ruin of Carrig-o-Gunnel, on this estate, 
there is an extensive view, comprising the course of the 
Shannon, and much of the counties of Clare and Limerick. 
On the opposite side of the river is the wood of Cratloe, a 
remnant of the natural forest which once overspread the 
greater part of Ireland. Adjacent to this is the Castle of 
Bunratty, whilome the seat of the Earls of Thomond, besieged 
and taken by Cromwell's forces in 1642. Bushy Island's 
private lunatic as} r lum, Scarlet Tower, and Beigh Castle 
are the principal objects of interest in midstream. The river 
widens till the estuary of the river Fergus is reached, and 
narrows again at the island of Foynes. Or the tourist may 
reach Foynes by rail from Limerick. A steamer meets the 
trains at Foynes, by which the journey down the Shannon 
to Kilrush may be continued. 

Foynes was one of the places which contended with 
Galway and Cork to be made the station for American mail 
packets. Leaving Foynes, the Castle of Glen and the 
neighbouring castellated farm buildings attract the attention. 
Two miles further down, Tarbert is reached, where the 
steamer calls. The course then lies across the river towards 
Kilrush, leaving Carrig Island on the left. As we approach 



KILKEE. 



137 



Kilrush, Scattery Island is passed. The island lies a short 
distance off shore, and its antiquarian attractions claim a 
visit. Here are the ruins of seven churches, and one of the 
finest specimens of Ireland's famed " round towers." The 
legends connected with this sacred isle resemble much in 
character those of the celebrated Glendalough in Wicklow, 
while its antiquities likewise exhibit the same style of 
architecture. The country people on the mainland still use 
the place as a cemetery, and one may frequently see a string 
of boats, the first performing the office of hearse, wending its 
sad way to the burial-place of St. Senanus. 

From the landing place at Kilrush, we proceed by jaunting 
car or hotel 'bus to 

Kilkee. 

[Hotels : " Moore's " and " Warren's."] 
The intermediate country is uninteresting, and the traveller 
will joyfully welcome the view of the delightful little watering- 
place of Kilkee after his hour's drive. The village of Kilkee 




Amphitheatre on the coast of Kilkee. 

is an assemblage of mud-walled thatched cottages, but when 



138 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 



the tourist reaches the end of the main street a very different 
prospect bursts on his view — a crescent-shaped bay, open to 
the Atlantic, margined with a beautiful white strand half a 
mile in length, and overhung by rows of pretty marine villas. 
A natural breakwater of rocks runs nearly across the bay. 
These rocks, which are quite dry at low-water, are called the 
Duggerna Reef. 

The Cave of Kilkee is nearly two miles from the town. It 
is best visited by water, a way which also affords a view of 
some splendid coast scenery. In front is the broad Atlantic, 
while along the coast, overhung by dark cliffs, chasms, island 
rocks, and deep caves present themselves in endless variety. 
After clearing the Duggerna Reef, the Amphitheatre is reached ; 
it is a deep, semicircular recess formed by the action of the 
waves on the cliff. Here are generally to be found groups of 
visitors, resting in the sheltered nooks, or basking on the 
Diamond Rocks, a sloping shelf of rocky quartz. The Puffing 
Hole, which is on the inner side, is a square orifice in the cliff 
communicating with the sea. It is so called because a south- 
west wind at flood-tide shoots the spray through the opening 
high over the topmost cliff, like a gigantic fountain. 

Next comes "Look-out Bay." From the crest of the "Look- 
out," the view extends from Loop Head to the Isles of Arran, 
and on clear days even the Connemara ranges may be dis- 
cerned. The cave is soon reached. The entrance is highly 
arched, resembling a huge Gothic doorway, and wide enough 
to admit the sun's rays in sufficient quantity to light the roof 
with its glittering stalactites. But not far from the mouth 
the cave winds, and passing this point the explorer is in almost 
utter darkness. The vagaries of sound towards the inner 
extremity (about 300 feet from the entrance) are very startling. 

The tourist, if time permit, will do well to make a stay at 
Kilkee for a few days. The bracing air, the delightful rambles 
about the romantic neighbourhood, and the bathing will recruit 
the frame if tired from the late clambering on Mangerton, and 
invigorate it for the coming work in the Connemara highlands. 
A sail down to Loop Head, sixteen miles from Kilkee, might 
be undertaken. The view from the top of the lighthouse, 
which crowns the extremity of the promontory, embraces the 
entire coast-line back towards Kilkee and across the mouth 
of the Shannon towards the county of Limerick, and the dis- 
tant peaks of the Kerry Mountains. 

From Kilkee, the tourist proceeds by road to Milltown 
Malbay, which received its ill-omened title from its rugged 
cliffs, against which the waves dash with unimpeded force. 
Two vessels of the Spanish Armada were wrecked here. The 




CLIFFS OF -MOHEK CO. CLARE, IRELA>D. 



Atlantic Hotel, two miles north of the village, affords ac- 
commodation during the summer months. And here, if he 
has not made the excursion while staying at Kilkee, the tourist 
should alight to view the Horseshoe Cliff, one of the highest 
on the whole coast. Eight miles further on we reach Loch- 
mell, a village on the shores of Liscannor Bay. From thence 
visit should be paid to the cliffs of Moher, which extend two 
miles in length round the promontory of Hag's Head. At one 
point these cliffs rise perpendicularly from the sea to the 
height of 668 feet, and, as the verge has been fenced in, the 
tourist can with safety lean over and gaze on the sea-gulls, 
sailing about the rocks, looking like so many bees in size. 
Proceeding a mile farther, a pathway is gained, by which (in 
calm weather) we can descend to the base of this precipice. 
We give a coloured view of the cliffs. 

Lisdoonvarna. 

[Hotel: "Eagle."] 

At Lisdoonvarna is a spa of increasing repute, which has 
great attractions as a tourist's centre. It is situated in the 
Barony of Burrin, which is about fifteen miles long and ten in 
breadth. The district is certainly bleak, but it does not de- 
serve General Ludlow's severe criticism, that it is " a country 
in which there is not water enough to drown a man, wood 
enough to hang a man, nor earth enough to bury him." 

To the north of Lisdoonvarna the ground rises in regulars- 
terraced flights ; and the geological character of the soil being 
mostly carboniferous, the bare hills present an arid appear- 
ance. For this, however, the tourist is soon recompensed, 
as Galway Bay, in all its striking beauty, opens before his gaze, 
with its background of purple mountains. There is a splendid 
drive from Lisdoonvarna to Ballyvaughan (about seven miles), 
down the celebrated "Corkscrew road," from the top of which 
the Cliffs of Moher are visible, the entire Bay of Galway, the 
islands of Arran, and the Atlantic ; or by another route from 
Lisdoonvarna (nine miles), one of the finest drives in Ireland, 
vid the celebrated road, Black Head, from which the views are 
not to be surpassed anywhere. From Ballyvaughan,the tourist 
was formerly compelled to cross the bay to Galway in a 
11 hooker," a kind of fishing-smack ; but he may now take 
the steamer that runs between Ballyvaughan and Galway. 
For times of sailing, he must consult the monthly tables of the 
Midland Great Western Company. If he be averse to facing 
a trip across Galway Bay (which, by-the-bye, is not alwa3 r s 
as smooth as a fish-pond), he must proceed from Lisdoonvarna 
to Ennis by road on what is called a "long car," which runs 



i 4 o LONDON AND NORTH- WESTERN GUIDE. 

daily between these places. From Ennis he takes the railway 
to Galway, changing trains at Athenry. 

Tourists, wishing to go direct from Limerick to Galway, 
must go via Ennis and Athenry, changing trains at Athenry. 
There is not much to interest the tourist except that on the 
left of the line leaving Ennis are the fine ruins of Dromclifte, 
and a round tower and fruinous church ; and on the right 
the ruins of an abbey, founded by King Donald O'Brien, on 
the shores of Lough Inchicronan. Ennis, population 7,175, 
is the county town of Clare. Three miles south-west from 
Gort is Kilmacduagh, celebrated for its round tower, said to 
be 17! feet out of the perpendicular, and the ruins of " seven 
churches." 



SECTION IV. 

DUBLIN, via MAYNOOTH, MULLINGAB, AND ATHLONE, 
TO GALWAY. 

LEAVING Dublin by the terminus of the Midland Great 
_, Western Railway of Ireland (Broadstone Station), we 
cannot fail to observe the rich and varied aspects of the Dublin 
mountains, and the stone-roofed ruin on Mount Pelier, the 
central hill. At 

Clonsilla, 
the first station, seven miles from Dublin, the Meath Railway 
branches off to Navan and the once splendid Tara. The next 
station we reach is that of 

Lucan. 

Near the line may be observed the remains of a fortalice, one 
of the castles of the pale or boundary between the early Eng- 
lish colony and their restless Irish neighbours. Lucan was 
formerly celebrated for its spas. About a mile further on is 
Leixlip, on the north side of the Liffey, celebrated in song and 
story for 

" Its bright sunny river, 
Its dark leafy bowers, 
And its spacious domains." 

Carton, the domain of the Duke of Leinster, " Ireland's only 



MA YNOOTH— MULLINGAR— A THLONE. 141 

Duke," extends along the right-hand side of the railway as we 
proceed towards 

Maynooth. 
The Roman Catholic College and the old castle of May- 
nooth will claim the tourist's attention. The present college 
was founded in 1795, and consists of three sets of buildings, 
to which are attached about eighty acres of land, enclosed by 
a high stone wall. The first Roman Catholic College of May- 
nooth was founded by Earl Gerald Fitzgerald, who died in 
15 13. But the stranger may be more interested in the stately 
ruins of the castle, erected in 1426 by John, sixth Earl of 
Kildare, and dismantled during the rebellion'of Lord Thomas 
Fitzgerald in the reign of Henry VIII. Le'aving Maynooth, 
the tourist enters the famous and far-stretching Bog of Allen, 
a flat moory plain stretching on all sides to the horizon, its 
monotony occasionally broken by round hills of no great 
elevation. On one of these hills the giant Finn MacCoul, 
is stated to have lived. Pyramids of turf, logs of bog deal, 
fantastic roots of old forest trees, the huts and trenches of 
the turf-cutters, and their potato patches are the charac- 
teristics of this portion of the journey. Passing Kilcock and 
Fernslock, we reach 

Mullingar, 
a town of over 5,000 inhabitants. In the neighbourhood are 
the lakes of Owel and Belvedere, remarkable for the quiet 
sylvan beauty of their shores, and the excellent fishing their 
well-stocked waters afford the angler. From Mullingar a 
branch runs to Cavan and Sligo. The birthplace of Oliver 
Goldsmith may be visited from Mullingar ; it is in the hamlet 
of Pallas, near Ballymahon, about sixteen miles. Leaving 
Mullingar we pass the town of Moate, so called from a re- 
markable mound or mote in its vicinity. The castle is the 
seat of Lord Crofton. Knockdommy Hill, on our right, rises 
to an elevation of over 500 feet. The country gradually be- 
comes more interesting as we gain the outskirts of the Bog of 
Allen. The plantations of Moydrum, the demesne of Lord 
Castlemaine, diversify the landscape ; villas and cottages 
ornee betoken the proximity of a city, and soon we cross the 
majestic Shannon on a bridge 560 feet long, and enter the 
ancient burgh of 

Athlone, 

the second largest city on the Shannon, which, having been the 
chief pass into Connaught, was often the theatre of confusion 
and strife. The castle, built by King John, was specially 
exempted from the munificent present of the whole of Con- 



naught, which Henry III. bestowed on his faithful knight, 
Richard de Burgo. In the reign of Elizabeth, the Earl of 
Essex strengthened the fortress and resided in it for some 
time. After the battle of the Boyne in 1690, the army of 
William, flushed with victory, appeared before its walls. Its 
general, Douglas, battered the castle for eight days without 
success, and at last, finding all his efforts ineffectual, withdrew 
his forces by night. In the Midsummer following, the main 
body of King William's army came up, led by General De 
Ginkle, afterwards Earl of Athlone. After ten days' bombard- 
ment with shot and shell, the city was at last carried by a 
brave assault. 

The castle is now used as a military barrack, and within 
the enclosure of its walls are extensive ordnance stores and a 
depot, where 15,000 to 20,000 stand of arms are kept. The 
fortress is still formidable, and up to 1697 ^ was we ^ n ^S n 
impregnable, but in that year a flash of lightning exploded a 
magazine of 260 barrels of gunpowder, 10,000 charged grenades, 
matches, etc. The concussion was terrific ; the strong castle 
was shaken and every house within the enclosure of the city 
walls more or less injured ; happily, the loss of life was trifling. 
The population of Athlone is about 6,ooo. Thirteen miles 
west of Athlone, we reach 

Ballinasloe, 

on tha river Suck, a thriving town of 4.000 inhabitants. For- 
merly a strong fortress, it is now chiefly known for its horse 
and cattle fairs. From this station or the next, 

Woodlawn, 

the tourist may visit the village and battlefield of Aughrim, 
where, on the 12th of July, 1691, 25,000 of the Irish, com- 
manded by St. Ruth, were defeated by 18,000 veterans of 
King William's army, led by De Ginkle. There is an ex- 
tremely beautiful abbey close to Woodlawn station. Time 
permitting, the lovely ruins of Kilconnell are well worthy of a 
visil'. The corbels from which the arches spring are supported 
by figures of birds and angels, finely carved. But we are 
approaching 

Athenry (Junction), 

the " City of Kings," and of ruined churches and ancient 
castles. The Dominican Abbey was erected, 1261, by the 
munificence of Meyler de Bermingham ; it became famous for 
learning amd sanctity, and was the chosen burying-place of 
the Earls of Ulster and the principal families of Ireland. The 
Earl of Kildare founded the Franciscan Friary in 1464 ; chapels 



were built by his wife, also by the Earl of Desmond and O'Tully. 
In 1577 the city was burned and sacked by the sons of the 
Earl of Clanricarde. A considerable portion of the old city 
wall yet remains, and one of the city gates is still in good 
preservation. The most interesting of the ruins is that of the 
Dominican Church, evincing in decay its former magnificence 
and extent. 

At Athenry we are only thirteen miles from the Seville of 
Ireland, the old and ancient city of 

Galway. 

[Hotels : " Railway," adjoining the station ; " Black's," in Eyre Square.] 
Galway, whence the tour to the Western Highlands is com- 
menced, will not fail to strike the tourist as a quaint and pic- 
turesque city — or rather town ; for Galway has fallen sadly 
from its bygone high estate, and is no longer a city. It first 
began to assume importance in the latter half of the twelfth 
century, after thirteen families, now known as the " tribes of 
Galway," had settled there. The old parts, however, as they 
now exist, must have been built at a later date, for they exhibit 
unmistakable characteristics of Spanish architecture, which 
can only be accounted for by the subsequent trading connec- 
tion between the adventuresome " Galway tribes " and the 
traders of Spain. This connection seems to have been much 
closer than usually exists between merchants of different 
countries. Strong ties of friendship and mutual hospitality 
appear to have fostered that fantastic taste in architecture 
which is equally apparent in the grotesque sculpturing on the 
Valencian and on the Galway houses. " I found," says Inglis, 
" the wide entries and broad stairs of Cadiz and Malaga; the 
arched gateways, with the outer and inner railing, and the 
court within, needing only the fountain and flower vases to 
emulate Seville." 

Perhaps, too, the hatred in which the " tribes " were held by 
the aborigines tended in no small degree to nurture this alliance 
with foreigners, and to develop the taste for their customs and 
their art. The bad feeling between the Galway merchants 
and the natives, by whom they were continually harassed, 
was the origin of the inscription which was engraved over the 
west gate of the town : — 

" From the ferocious O' Flaherties, 
Good Lord, deliver us ! " 

The principal objects of interest in Galway are Lynch Castle, 
Queen's College, the Church of St. Nicholas, an ancient gate- 



144 LONDON AAD NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

way with a few small portions of the walls remaining, the 
Claddagh, the Salmon Fishery, the Iodine Chemical Works, 
the Wooden Clog Steam Factory, and an extensive Whisky 
Distillery. 

From one of the windows of Lynch Castle, James Fitzstephen 
Lynch is said to have hanged his only son. The story is as 
follows: — James Fitzstephen Lynch was warder of Galway in 
1493. He was the head of the most influential of the tribes and 
traded largely with Spain. On one occasion he sent his son 
to bring back a cargo of wine, and also to fetch a nephew of a 
Spanish merchant on a visit. Young Lynch squandered the 
money entrusted to him, obtained the cargo on credit, and 
then murdered the Spanish youth, and threw him overboard 
on the homeward voyage. But soon after the safe arrival of 
young Lynch in Galway, one of the sailors, when dying, sent 
for the warder and confessed the crime in which he had been 
an accomplice. The judge and father acted the part of Brutus, 
and condemned his son to death ; but on the day of execution 
he found that his wife's relatives had mustered in such strong 
force outside Lynch Castle that it would be impossible for 
him to carry his son to the place of execution. So, stifling the 
remnant of parental feelings in his breast, he led the youth to 
an arched window overlooking the street, and, securing the 
fatal rope to a projecting gable, launched his son into eternity. 
" His house still exists in Lombard-street, Galway, which is 
yet known by the name of ' Dead Man's Lane ; ' and over the 
front doorway are to be seen a skull and cross-bones, executed 
in black marble, with the motto, ' Remember Deathe' — ' Vaniti 
of vaniti, and all is but vaniti.' " — Hardman. 

Another member of this family erected, at his own expense, 
in 1442, the West Bridge, which has since been rebuilt. An- 
other Lynch built the choir of St. Nicholas' Church ; and we 
are told that in 1462 Gorman Lynch coined money in Galway. 
Specimens of the money then coined are very rare : they are 
believed to have corresponded to the current fourpence, two- 
pence, halfpenny, and farthing. 

Queen's College. — This building, which was opened in 1849, 
is of the Gothic order of architecture, and quadrangular in 
form ; it is built of grey mountain limestone, and is orna- 
mented with an artistically designed cupola on the front which 
faces the town. It contains a museum, with many specimens 
of stuffed animals and birds ; a fine geological collection, rich 
in specimens of the district ; an excellent library, and com- 
pact lecture rooms; there is also an anatomical section in the 
museum. It is one of the most economical colleges in the 
kingdom, the annual fees not exceeding £\2. 



The Church of St. Nicholas is an antique structure, dating 
from 1320, but principally remarkable for having been much 
associated with the annals of the Lynch family > under whose 
patronage it seems to have been beautified. 

Having seen the architectural beauties, and moralized over 
the traces of Galway's ancient importance, the tourist may find 
fresh food both for admiration and for speculation. He can- 
not fail to be struck by the tall graceful girls of the Claddagh, 
in their picturesque habits ; while the customs of the strange 
people inhabiting this district are well worth the study of the 
archaeologist. They hold but little intercourse with the inha- 
bitants of Galway, and are ruled over by a " king " annually 
elected from among their number. They exist principally by 
fishing, and are most rigid in their observance of ' 'lucky " and 
" unlucky " days. But their custom of "marriage by capture," 
and other of their usages, no longer practised, are the most 
interesting facts in connection with this apparently alien 
colony ; for here seem to have survived many of the manners 
and practices which Sir J. Lubbock and Mr. Tylor have been 
at such pains to investigate in their well-known histories of 
primitive humanity. 

The coast of Galway possesses, to some extent, the same 
flora as the coast of Spain, particularly in ferns. This is said 
to be accounted for by the seeds having been carried in mer- 
chandise to Galway, or brought by winds, tides, or birds. The 
salmon fishing under Galway Bridge is excellent ; and at low 
tide the salmon literally pave the bottom of the river, so 
numerous do they become when waiting to get over the weir 
into Lough Corrib. The rod angling is confined to a club of 
gentlemen ; but permission to fish can sometimes be obtained 
on application to the secretary, at a charge of 10s. per rod per 
day— the angler retaining one third of his " catch " in weight 
of fish, or receiving the money value of the same according to 
the current market price. 

An inspection of the Iodine Chemical Works, for the manu- 
facture of iodine from seaweed, and of the Steam Clog Factory 
may also prove interesting to the tourist. But for those who 
are not antiquarians, the bay will be the first object. In its 
greatest extent it is thirty miles long and twenty wide ; and 
within its embrace it holds innumerable creeks and havens 
which might well be styled harbours. The facilities afforded 
by this splendid bay for accommodating shipping, the fact of 
its being the nearest harbour in the kingdom to St. John's, 
and its proximity to Dublin, all combined to make Galway 
Bay eligible as a transatlantic packet station. Steamers did 
actually run for a short period, and some unusually rapid 



10 



passages were made ; but with the death of Father Daly, the 
indefatigable champion of his native town, disappeared Gal- 
way's hopes, and since that time Cork has retained the privi- 
lege. Unlike most of the bays around, and their name is 
legion — Connemara means "bays of the sea"— Galway is 
comparatively devoid of islands, except at its outer extremity, 
where lie the isles of Arran. This peculiarity, and the fact 
that a " turf bog of several feet in depth, in which are stumps 
and roots of large trees, and many branches of oak and birch 
intermixed" (Dutton's Survey), may be seen ten feet below 
high-water mark at Borna, give some colouring of probability 
to the hypothesis that the bay was once dry land, and the 
isles of Arran part of the mainland. These islands, three in 
number, can be visited by taking a passage in the fishing boats 
that visit Galway ; or a boat may be hired for a half-sovereign 
at Roundstone, by which a party may reach the isles, view the 
scenery and archaeological remains, and return next morning. 
On Arranmore, the largest of the islands, are the remains of a 
fort, called Dan y'Engus which was built before the Christian 
era. There are also ruins of seven churches, and an ancient 
Irish inscription on a portion of a stone cross. A view of the 
cliffs, on the side facing the ocean, would alone repay the 
trouble of an excursion to these islands. 



SECTION V. 

TOUR THROUGH CONNEMARA. 

PROCEEDING from Galway, on the tour through Conne- 
mara, there is a choice of two routes — by the steamer, 
JEglington, up 

Lough Corrib 

to Cong, and thence by car to Clifden, via Maam and the 
Half-way House ; or by car from Cong, direct to Clifden ; but 
the second route does not take in Galway, nor does it give 
such views of Lough Comb's enchanting shores as are to 
be obtained from the deck of the Eglington. 

The steamer leaves Galway daily, and ascending the river 
Gallive for three miles, enters the " Friar's Cut," and, soon 
reaching Menlough Castle, "one of the handsomest of the old 



CONG. m 147 

inhabited castles of Ireland," brings the tourist to the shores 
of the lough. The 'first twelve miles, after leaving the Cut, 
though rich in ecclesiastical and feudal remains, in no way 
prepare us for the coming beauties of the upper portion of this 
inland sea. The first group of ruins of especial interest is that 
of " Armaghdoun." 

Tolokian Castle, or Caisleau-na-Cailliaghe — " the Hag's 
Castle " — whose picturesque, ivy-clothed walls cannot fail to 
arrest attention, comes next in view. Literally nothing seems 
to be known with reference to its origin. At this point an 
island will be observed, which bears upon it the remains of an 
uncemented stone fort, supposed to be of great antiquity. 

As the steamer continues to advance, a capital view is 
obtained of Annabreen Castle, a ruined fortress, conjectured 
by Sir William Wilde to be the oldest of the castles surround- 
ing 'Lough Corrib. It is entirely built of undressed stone. 

The surface of Lough Corrib is diversified by numerous 
islands — it is commonly said that there is one upon it for every 
day in the year. The most important of these islands is 
Inchangoill, or Inis-an-Ghoill, Crabhtheach — " the Island of the 
Stranger," which lies to the left of the course pursued by the 
steamer. Upon this island are the ruins of two very ancient 
churches — one of which, the older and plainer of the two, is 
called the Church of St. Patrick. The style of its masonry 
and architecture fully support the tradition of its having been 
built in his age. 

There is in the churchyard a curious monumental stone, 
only six inches in thickness, upon the side of which is an 
inscription, supposed to be one of the earliest Christian 
inscriptions in Ireland. It describes the stone to be " Lia 
Lugnaedon, Mace Lmenue " — "the Stone of Lugnaedon, 
son of Limania," the sister of Saint Patrick. 

A little further on, we pass Moytura House, the residence of 
Sir William Wilde ; it stands upon the ancient battle-field of 
Moytura, from which it takes its name. Approaching Cong, 
the beautiful demesne of Sir Arthur Guinness appears in sight. 
The scenery of the lake here, dotted over with wooded islands, 
is charmingly picturesque. 

Cong. 

[Hotel : " Burke's."] 

Cong (Cunga, an Irish word, signifying a neck) is a village 
on the isthmus separating Loughs Corrib and Mask. 

The neighbourhood of Cong abounds in natural curiosities — 
the curious subterranean streams which convey the waters of 



Lough Mask to those of Lough Corrib being especially worthy 
of notice. This extraordinary freak of nature may be seen 
through openings where the land has fallen in. Of these 
natural caverns, that called "The Pigeon Hole," the abode of 
the sacred trout, is easiest of access. 

Cong Abbey, which claims the honour of having been the 
residence of Roderick O'Connor, the last monarch of Ireland, 
who lived there for fourteen years before his death, is the chief 
object of interest in the locality, and an examination of its 
beauties will well repay the tourist. Although said to have 
been founded in the seventh century, the remaining portions of 
the ruin are supposed not to be much older than the twelfth; 
the style of the mouldings and sculptured stone-work is clearly 
that of the decorated Norman order of architecture. The 
entrance-gateway and some of the windows are peculiarly 
beautiful. 

The market cross of Cong is, too, well worthy of notice, as 
also the cave of rough unhewn stone in Ashford demense, which, 
by the liberality of Sir A. Guinness, is always open to visitors. 

The tourist can either sleep at Cong, or proceed on to 
Maam and Half-way House; this route commands some 
splendid views as it gradually ascends to Maam, both of the 
waters of Corrib and of the mountain scenery surrounding 
the beautiful Glen of Bealanabrack, which is passed before 
reaching the hotel. 

Maam is only five miles from Half-way House, where the 
tourist mounts the car, en route for Clifden. If it be decided to 
remain at Cong, the car can be caught at Oughterard, by rowing 
across the lake. Intercepting the car, however, at Half-way 
House, brings the tourist twelve miles nearer Clifden than if he 
had gone to Oughterard. The scenery, too, between Cong and 
Half-way House, is far superior to what it is between Oughterard 
and Half-way House. 

Glendalough. 

The second route to Clifden, by car direct, (not to be compared 
to the one described), lies through the village of Moycullen. 
The country towards the shore of Lough Corrib is flat, and 
affords occasional views of those scenes so much better 
looked upon from the Eglington. Some fine country seats are 
passed, the principal being Lemonfield, the residence of 
G. O'Flahertie, Esq., a descendant of the " ferocious 
OTlaherties." Nearer is Aughnanure Castle, the ancient 
stronghold of the family. The tourist now arrives at 
Oughterard, a picturesque looking town, situated on the 
Owen Riff river (" The River of Sulphur "), which forms a 



GLENDALOUGH. 149 



succession of cascades just above the town. This river abounds 
with fresh water mussels, in which pearls are frequently found. 
The road from this place to Half-way House (a distance of 
twelve miles) lies through lake and mountain scenery. At 
five, miles Lough Bofin is passed, and next Lough Arderry. 
Next comes Lough Shindella^ with its numerous wooded 
islands, though the lake is but two miles in length. Here" is 
the Half-way House, a simple country cottage, buried amidst 
the mountains. 

The seven miles from this to Glendalough is a most delightful 
drive, and the group of lakes amongst which the tourist finds 
himself are superior to anything else in Connemara, and, 
in the opinion of some, quite equal to Killarney. The endless 
combinations in which Glendalough, Derryclare, Ballynahinch, 
and the lonely romantic Inagh appear, with their background 
of lofty mountains, and the precipitate courses of the hill- 
side torrents, tracing silvery lines from the summits to the 
deeply-embosomed lakelets at the base, can only be realised 
when actually seen. There is a choice of two hotels, if the 
tourist should wish to make a stay in this lovely district — 
the Recess Hotel, six miles from Half-way House, and the 
Glendalough Hotel, on the opposite side of the lake. If time 
permit, we would recommend a halt here, for the ascent of 
Lisoughter Mountain affords a bird's-eye view of the attrac- 
tive neighbourhood that would repay the trouble tenfold. 
Behind stretch the Maamturk range ; to the south winds the 
road just traversed from Oughterard ; while in front, with 
Loughs Inagh and Derryclare in the intermediate vale, the 
Twelve Pins rear theirs digged heads. Setting out once more 
from Glendalough towards Clifden, which is now fourteen 
miles distant, and after dri irg for about three miles through 
interesting country, the br^icl; ioad ^nich leads to Roundstone 
is passed on the left, jus^^ey >d u Lough Ballynahinch is 
reached. The remains of a ancient castle may be observed 
on a small island in the lough. 

The scenery still continues interesting, and again the tourist 
is in the land of lakes. On the left side of the road the Bally- 
nahinch and Glencraghan rivers are passed ; the latter takes 
its rise in the Twelve Pin Mountain of which we give a view. 
On the right", the Derryclare and Ber aery Mountains rise in 
all their grandeur. Fr \ the sho/dde Derriff Cave 1 good 
view can be obtained . n ? lovely ^a .onely Lough Inagh. 

Ballynahinch—the ancien ^residence of the Martin family- 
stands at the southern extremity of the lough bearing the 
same name. In former days the Martin ! possessed almost 
regal power in this part of ti. country , and the peasantry 



constantly speak of the "reign" of the Martins, clearly 
denoting the paramount authority of this family, out of whose 
hands the immense property — upwards of 200,000 acres of 
land, together with the family mansion — passed some years 
since, the last owner having mortgaged it to the Law Life 
Insurance Company. The house, which is surrounded by 
trees, stands on the shore of the lough, a range of dark and 
lofty mountains forming the background. 

Passing onward, the road to the right leads to the celebrated 
green marble quarries, specimens of which, worked into 
crosses, brooches, etc., can be purchased at 

Clifden 

LHotels : " Mtillarkey's New" and "CarrV], 
a little town six miles further on, which is prettily situated, 
embosomed amid hills, but open towards the west to the 
Atlantic. Clifden is of quite modern growth, having, in fact, 
been founded by the late Mr. Darcy. Clifden Castle, formerly 
the residence of this gentleman, a modern castellated mansion, 
is reached by a road winding along the sea-shore, and has a 
beautiful situation, but is, in other respects, not remarkable. 
Outside the town, the Owenglen River forms a succession of 
pretty falls. For excursions to Roundstone, Mount Urrisberg, 
and elsewhere, the tourist should consult Shaw's local shilling 
Guide. From Clifden the road to Leenane lies through Letter- 
frack, seven miles distant, a clean, comfortable little place, 
with two good hotels (a temperance hotel, and Mrs. Casson's, 
one of the neatest in the country). A very pleasant day may 
be spent here in ascending the Diamond Mountain. 

Two miles further on the road to Leenane, the tourist 
crosses the River Dawross, which conve} 7 s the waters of Kyle- 
more Lake and Pollacappul to Ballynakele Harbour. From 
this bridge the first view is caught of the unrivalled Pass of 
Kylemore. It is about three miles long, and is endowed with 
a beauty peculiarly its own. In the distance the Twelve Pins 
rear their lofty heads, looking like the guardian genii of the 
Pass. The mountains to the left, or north of the road, rise 
precipitously, and are wooded half-way up ; their summits are 
bare — bold and lofty crags jutting out at intervals. This 
wood, from which the place takes its name — Kylemore, or 
" big wood," — is the only ancient wood now remaining in the 
whole country, which was at one time covered with forest, as 
is evidenced by the large quantity of timber still existing in 
the bogs. In this wood is found the exquisite white heath. 
The mountains to the right and across the lakes are less pre- 



L EENANE— WESTPOR T. 151 

cipitous, but are completely bare of trees, and but scantily 
covered with grass and heather, so that they sparkle in the 
sun, and by moonlight appear quite silvery. Having left the 
Pass, we behold the shores of Killery in all their magical 
beauty. The village of 

Leenane 

is situated at the inland extremity of the bay. This moun- 
tain-locked arm of the sea resembles much a Norwegian 
fiord, but without wood or foliage. It is ten miles in length, 
and not quite half a mile in width ; and the narrow mouth 
being protected by an island, one would easily be deceived 
into thinking it a lake. As Mr. Otway says, " there is 
scarcely any lake that has not a flat, tame end, generally 
that where the superabundant waters flow off and form a 
river. But here nothing was tame — on every side the mag- 
nificent mountains seemed to vie with each other which 
should catch and keep your attention most. Northwards 
the Fenamore Mountains ; the Partree range to the east ; 
Maam Turc to the south. A little more to the south-west 
the sparkling cones of the Twelve Pins of Benabola; then 
a little more to the west, the Renvyle Mountain ; and off to 
the north again, the monarch of the whole amphitheatre, 
Mwcelrea, 

' With its cap of clouds that it had caught, 
And anon flings fitfully off.' " 

Whilst he is at Leenane, the tourist should make an excur- 
sion to Delphi, a sight which, it has been said, would alone 
repay the trouble of the journey from London. For informa- 
tion as to this and other excursions to Salruck Pass, Innisturk 
Island, and Renvyle House, the tourist may consult Shaw's 
Guide to the district. The Killery Bay Hotel affords accom- 
modation at Leenane. 

From Leenane, en route to Westport (eighteen miles), the 
road winds along the shore of Killery, up the banks of the 
Eriff River, amid scenes of great variety. The road is a good 
one, though, after leaving Eriff Bridge, rather uninteresting, 
until Croagh Patrick comes in sight — the famous Croagh 
Patrick, on which the national saint stood when he banished 
the venomous snakes and toads from Ireland. 

Westport 

[Hotels : " Railway " and " Imperial "] 
was once a flourishing town, and evidences of its former pros- 



152 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

perity are apparent in the number of empty warehouses, large 
enough, as Thackeray, with pardonable exaggeration, says, to 
contain the merchandise of Manchester. The " Mall," which 
is the principal street, runs the whole length of the town. 
Through this street flows the stream, which, before entering 
the town, waters the beautiful demesne of the Marquis of 
Sligo, whose plantations and gardens are open to visitors. 

Excursions should be made to Achill Island, Muirrisk 
Abbey, and the summit of Croagh Patrick. The drive from 
Westport to Achill embraces the rich scenery of the won- 
drous Clew Bay, "and the multitudinous groups of islands 
along its shore, with Clare Island, the ancient residence 
of Grana Uaile, protecting its mouth. About two miles 
beyond Newport, a little town north-west of Clew Bay, two 
of the most striking ruins in Ireland are reached — the Castle 
of Carrig-a-Hooley and Burrishoole Monastery. Some of the 
mullions and carvings of the latter are very curious specimens 
of art. But the castle, though without any beauty of design, 
is equally interesting as one of Grana Uaile's favourite strong- 
holds. The sensational history of Grana's exploits the tourist 
will find set forth at length in Shaw's Shilling Guide to this dis- 
trict. Pushing on through Molhrany, after eight miles, an ex- 
quisite sea tiew opens before the gaze ; then, crossing Achill 
Sound, the tourist enters on the large irregularly-shaped island 
of Achill. It is bounded on the north by the deeply-indented 
Blacksod Bay ; on the south by Clew Bay ; the Sound and 
Bull's Mouth bind it on the east ; and the western side, guarded 
by stupendous cliffs, faces the Atlantic. There is little or no 
vegetation on the island. Slievmore is the highest mountain 
in Achill ; but Sliev Croaghaun is better worth ascending. 
Sliev Croaghaun is 2,500 feet in height, and upon gaining the 
summit it is rather startling to find that, instead of the other 
side of the mountain also descending gradually, it forms a 
tremendous precipice, looking over the edge of which the great 
ocean is seen 2,500 feet below. The face of this precipice is 
very curious. " There are evident indications here of Sliev 
Croaghaun having been sliced down, and left, as it were, a 
palpable remnant of some great convulsion ; for just behind 
the precipice, where it is highest, and about twenty feet from 
the brow, an anterior chasm is seen, forming an enormous and 
rugged fissure for hundreds of yards along, in some places 
hundreds of feet deep ; and this shows that when the mighty 
blow was given, and while half the mountain was falling 
down, this crack took place. It was but a chance that this 
great slice did not go down along with the rest." 

Muirrisk Abbey (muirrisc, " a sea-shore marsh ") is situated 



CASTLEBAR—BA LLINA . 153 

at the foot of Croagh Patrick. Muirrisk is the starting-point 
for making the pilgrimage to the " Lug," a plateau near the 
summit, whence the saint 

" Preached his sarjnint, 
Which drove the frogs 
Into the bogs 
And bothered all the varmint." 

The tourist now returns to Westport, and thence takes the 
train, via Castlebar, to Manulla Junction ; where carriages 
are changed for Ballina. 

Castlebar, 

the principal town in Mayo, has nothing in its present ap- 
pearance to interest the tourist. During the rebellion of 
1798 it gained some notoriety. The French, with an unarmed 
horde of natives, penetrated as far as Castlebar, where a brave 
stand was made by the Fraser Fencibles. The precipitate 
retreat of the remainder of the English force is known as the 
''Castlebar Races." Foxford is a prettily situated little 
town, progressing rapidly, with neat houses and clean streets. 
It is much resorted to by anglers, for the River Moy is one of 
the best salmon rivers in Ireland. Killala Bay, six miles from 
the town, is famous for having been the rendezvous of the 
French invaders in 1798. Between Killala and 

Ballina 

[Hotels : " Moy," " Royal," and " Imperial"] 
are the ruins of Roserk and Moyne Abbeys, and a remnant of 
a round tower. 

From Ballina to Dromore is fifteen miles. There are two 
roads, but the stage-car route is the more direct. The Church 
of Dromore is remarkable for having been built by Jeremy 
Taylor, the celebrated divine, when Bishop of Down, in the 
reign of Charles II. From Dromore to Ballysodare (sixteen 
miles) the country is better cultivated. To the left is seen 
Aughris Head, the southern promontory of Sligo Bay ; and 
on the right the Ox Mountain. Ballysodare is a pretty 
village, on a bay. and river of the same name, The river, on 
the western bank of which is St. Fechan's Abbey, forms some 
fine rapids just outside the village. The road now winds 
round the shore in a northerly direction, and allows a fine 
view of Sligo Bay and Knockarea Mountain, on the promon- 
tory separating Ballysodare and Sligo Bays. 



154 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 



Sligo 

[Hotels : " Imperial " and " Victoria "j 
is a thriving town, having the largest export trade in grain 
of any town in the north-west of Ireland, but it affords small 
attraction for the tourist. 

The ruins of Sligo Abbey are unfortunately situated in a 
narrow street, which prevents their being seen to advantage. 
The Abbey was founded in 1252, by Maurice Fitzgerald, Earl 
of Kildare, burned to the ground in 1415, and rebuilt by con- 
tributions from pilgrims who visited the place to secure 
"indulgences." In the choir, which is still standing, are the 
remains of a beautiful Gothic window, and an altar of carved 
stone. There are also several beautiful tombs, one of which, 
belonging to the O'Connors, bears date 1616, and represents 
the figures of O'Connor-Sligo and his wife, surmounted by a 
figure of Christ. The steeple, which rises from an arch 
beautifully groined, is still entire. The cloister is also worth 
attention. 

"It consists, at present, of three sides of a square of beautifully-carved 
little arches of about four feet in height, which seem to have been anciently 
separated from each other. Almost all the little pillars are differently orna- 
mented, and one in particular is very unlike the rest, having a human head 
cut on the inside of the arch. There are several vaults throughout the ruins, 
containing the remains of skulls, bones, and coffins. The abbey and 3-ard 
are still used as a burying-place. " — Inglis. 

Lough Gill 
is about three miles from the town. One plan is to hire a 
boat and row up the River Garrogue to it ; another, to take 
a car, and drive through the grounds of Hazlewood. 

The lake is about five miles in length, from one to two in 
breadth, and is situated on Mr. Wynne's estate of Hazle- 
wood. The tourist here enters upon quite a different class of 
scenery. Instead of the wild romantic aspect of Connemara, 
cultivated wcoded landscapes meet the eye at every turn, 
forming a strong contrast to the kind of country travelled 
through at the commencement of the tour. The scenery is 
considered by some to be almost equal to that of Killarney, 
which in character it strongly resembles, the elevations along 
the sides of the lake being beautifully wooded — the arbutus 
trees predominating. 

"This is a very lovely spot ; the views of the lake from a hundred points 
are very enchanting ; and in the disposition of lawn, wood, and shrubbery, 
taste and art have taken ample advantage of the gifts of nature. Finer ever- 
greens I never saw in the most southern countries. The laurels and bays, 
grown into great trees, rivalled,, if they did not surpass, those of Woodstock 



LOUGH GILL. 



or Curraghmore ; and here I again found the arbutus, not indeed quite equal 
in its perfection to the arbutus of Killarney/' — Inglls. 

There are about twenty thickly-wooded islands on Lough 




Lough Gill. 



Gill — Cottage Island, about eight acres, and Church Island, 
twenty-live acres, being the two largest. The best view of 
the lake will be obtained at Dooney Rock, half-way up the 
lough on the right-hand side. From this point the entire 
circumference of the lake can be seen at one view. 

The neighbourhood of Sligo abounds with beautiful drives 
One of the best is to Benbulben Head, on the way to Bundoran 
(nine miles) and Glencar Waterfall. 

Walsh's mail cars leave Sligo twice a-day for Bundoran 
and Ballyshannon, performing the distance in three and 
three-quarter hours. 



156 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

EXCURSION IV. 
WESTPORT TO ATHLONE.* 

LEAVING Westport by the Great Northern and Western 
Railway, the traveller passes through Mayo County by 
Castlebar to Manulla Junction, where the line branches off to the 
left to Foxford. Continuing on the main line towards Athlone, 
Balla, Ballyhaunis, and Claremorris are successively passed. 
Between the latter station and Castlereagh the tourist passes from 
Mayo into Roscommon County, when Ballymoe, Dunamon, 
Roscommon, Ballymuny, and Knock croghery are the stages to- 
wards the junction at Athlone. 



EXCURSION V. 

SLICtO to mullingar. 

LEAVING Sligo (for which see pages 153-5), we traverse the 
county of the same name, passing the stations of Ballysa- 
dare, Collooney, and Ballymote ; and enter the county of Ros- 
common, near Boyle. The rail then visits a cluster of towns on 
the Upper Shannon, and runs through County Longford, a small 
county returning two members to Parliament. The town of 

Longford 

is a small thriving place. It stands on the banks of the river 
Longford, and obtained considerable celebrity in an early age of 
history on account of an abbey of which St. John, one of the 
disciples of St. Patrick, was abbot. The castle of Longford 
was the theatre of many interesting historical events. The 
best buildings here are a handsome church and a large Roman 
Catholic cathedral with a good tower. 

Multyfarnham 

is beautifully situated near Lake Peravaragh. Here are the ruins 
of an abbey with a steeple 90 feet high, built in 1236, and which 
contains tombs of the Nugents. Wilson's Hospital for Orphans 
is here. The next station is Mullingar, for which and the rest of 
the route to Dublin, see page 140, 

For "Westport, Castlebar, and Manulla Junction, bee p. 153. 



SECTION VI. 

FROM SLIGO, via BUNDORAN, LOUGH ERNE, AND 
ENNISKILLEN, TO LONDONDERRY. 

FROM Sligo the tourist must proceed by Walsh's car to Bun- 
doran. The road winds round the steep base of Benbulben, 
a magnificent headland composed of carboniferous limestone. 
From this point, the road commands a view of a succession of lofty 
hills to the east, and glimpses of the wide Atlantic in the west. 

From Bundoran [Hotel: "Hamilton's Terrace"] we have 
a choice of three routes : — I. By train to Bundoran Junction, 
where carriages must be changed for Londonderry. 2. By rail- 
way or car to Belleek, thence by steamer to Enniskillen, and 
from Enniskillen by railway to Londonderry. The tourist must, 
however, . learn at Bundoran or Belleek whether (and at what 
times) the steamers ply on the lake, since at the time of our 
going to press we are unable to obtain information as to any fixed 
arrangements for this season. 3. By road, on the mail cars, 
round the coast of Donegal to Lough Swilly, and thence by the 
Lough Swilly Railway to Londonderry. The last-mentioned 
route will take the tourist through grand and comparatively 
unknown coast scenery. That by Bundoran Junction is the 
quickest. The first station is 

Ballyshannon 

[Hotels : " Erne " and Imperial "J, 
famous for its salmon-leap. The line of railway lies along the 
course of the river, by which the great volume of Lough Erne's 
waters finds an exit to the sea. Though the length of this river is 
only nine miles, it falls 140 feet in its short course, so that some 
fine rapids are formed. At Ballyshannon the tourist bids adieu 
to the sea coast. As he speeds along the well- cultivated undu- 
lating plain between Ballyshannon and Belleek, Lough Erne 
lies on his right. At Belleek is * ' the first and only porcelain 
manufactory in Ireland," and strangers are readily shown over the 
works. At Pettigoe the railway runs only half a mile from Lough 
Erne, while five miles away on the other hand is situated Lough 
Derg, the most celebrated place of pilgrimage in Ireland. It lies 
in a dreary moorland district, and contains several small islands. 
One of these — Station Island, or St. Patrick's Purgatory — con- 
tains a cavern, into which used to be lowered (after long fasting) 
those pilgrims who were anxious to form some idea of the 
entrance to the place of temporary punishment for the wicked 



after death. At Kesh the train approaches very close to the 
most beautful portion of the lough, and then takes a more 
easterly course towards Lowtherstown and the junction, where 
we change carriages for Omagh and Strabane, en route for 
Londonderry. The train now faces northward, and, passing 
through Omagh and Strabane, crosses the river Foyle, about 
midway between the latter town and Lifford. A good view of 
the river, and of the Valley of the Finn, may be obtained as we 
cross the bridge, from which Deny is but half an hour's journey. 
The second route is, however, the best, for the tourist should 
not miss seeing Lough Erne, of which we give a view. Embarking 
at Belleek for Enniskillen, the traveller is carried over the entire 
length of the " more than Windermere of Ireland," as Inglis calls 
it. Its area is about 28,000 statute acres, and there are 109 islets 
scattered over its surface. The largest of these isies, Boa, is 
passed soon after leaving Belleek ; but the most interesting is 
Devenish, at the opposite extremity of the lake. On this island 
is a very perfect specimen of the round tower. "It is exactly 
circular, 69 feet high to the conical converging at the top, which 
has been restored, and is 15 feet more: it is 48 feet in circum- 
ference, and the walls are 3 feet 5 inches thick ; thus the inside is 
only 9 feet 2 inches in diameter. Besides the door, which is 
elevated 9 feet above the ground, there are seven square holes 
to admit the light. The whole tower is very neatly built with 
stones of about a foot square, with scarcely any cement or 
mortar, and the inside is as smooth as a gun-barrel." — Petrie. 
There are also ruins of two churches on the island. The 
northern shores of the lake slope gently upward from the water's 
edge ; but as we proceed south they become bolder, gradually 
blending with the hilly moorlands, which terminate in the Cliffs 
of Poulaphuca, twelve miles below 

Enniskillen. 

[Hotels: " Imperial," " White Hart," " M 'Bride's," and " Enniskillen 
Arms."] 

Enniskillen is the chief town of Fermanagh. It is built on 
an island formed by the branching of the river which connects 
the Upper and Lower Loughs of Erne. It dates from 161 2, 
when James I. granted it to William "Cole, the ancestor of the 
Earls of Enniskillen, to whom most of the town now belongs. 
The principal manufactures are cutlery and straw plait. The 
6th Regiment of Dragoons, known as the Enniskilleners, was 
principally raised in this town, which is an important military 
station. The distance from Enniskillen to the Bundoran Junction 
is only ten miles, and from this point we have already traced the 
tourist's route to the " Maiden City." 



L 0XB0A T DER2t Y. 1 59 



SECTION VII. 

LONDONDERRY TO PORTRU3H AND GIANT'S CAUSEWAY, 
BY COAST ROAD TO LARNE, AND FROM THE LATTER 
BY RAIL TO BELFAST. 

Londonderry. 

[Hotels " Jury's," "Imperial," and "Commercial."] 

THIS city, supposed to have been founded by St. Columbkill, 
in the sixth century, is situated on a rising ground sloping 
from the west bank of the Foyle. It was destroyed by fire in 783, 
and again in 812. In 983 the Danes carried away the shrine of 
St. Columbkill, and ruthlessly massacred the clergy and students. 
The vicissitudes of Deny were many from this date to the advent 
of Edward Randolph, in 1565, with an English force, who came 
to reduce Shane O'Neill to subjection. Randolph set about 
fortifying the place, but an explosion of gunpowder having 
destroyed many of his troops and the lately-erected works, he 
abandoned the position. Queen Elizabeth, however, determined 
to have the fortifications restored, and for that purpose commis- 
sioned Sir Henry Docreva to the command in 1600. He effected 
a landing at Culm ore, four miles below Deny, where he built a 
fort, the remains of which may still be seen. He then proceeded 
to pull down the old abbey and cathedral, together with other 
religious houses, with the materials of which he erected the wall 
and some other fortifications. This was the real foundation of the 
present city of Deny. Sir Henry encouraged English adventurers 
to settle in the place, and was soon after appointed governor, 
obtaining at the same time a charter of incorporation for the 
town. In 1608, however. Deny was again reduced to ashes by 
Sir Cahir O'Dogherty. But Cahir perished shortly after, and 
his property was confiscated, like that of the O'Neills and O'Don- 
nells some time previously. These Wholesale confiscations led 
to the ''colonization" of Ulster and the formation of the "Lon- 
don Society." To this body a new charter was given, of which 
one of the conditions was that the city should be well enclosed. 
The charter under which the society now acts is one granted by 
Charles II., on his restoration. The walls are still in a good 
state of preservation, and are the only perfect fortification of the 
kind in the United Kingdom. This is owing to the jealous care 
of the citizens, who regard with the greatest pride the walls so 
nobly defended by their ancestors. They have even retained a 
few of the guns in the exact positions which they occupied during 



160 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

the celebrated siege, which lasted 105 days and is too well known 
to need description. Within the walls, the city has maintains 
the same arrangements as to its streets as when originally laid 
out. The Corporation Hall occupies the centre, and from the 
square in which this building stands nearly all the streets run at 
right angles to the four original gates. These are Bishop's Gate, 
the Ship Quay Gate, the New Gate, and the Ferry Gate. The 
city now extends far beyond the walls ; it has been much im- 
proved of late years. A splendid view of Deny and its environs 
is obtained from the cathedral tower. Besides this building, which 
crowns the top of the hill on which the city stands, the tourist 
should visit the monument erected to the memory of the Rev. 
George Walker (the hero of the siege) on the central western 
bastion of the wall. Two fine bridges span the Foyle — a new 
one of iron and a wooden one, 1,068 feet long, and forty feet 
broad, built by an American gentleman, at a cost of ;£i 6,294. 
About four miles north-west from Derry are the remains of the 
Grianan of Aaileach, a monument of the ancient Irish. These 
vestiges of pagan worship are on a hill which rises 802 feet over 
the shores of Lough S willy ; so that the place is worthy of a 
visit, apart from archaeological attractions, for the view afforded 
of the surrounded country, including Lough Swilly. Culmore 
Fort, of which we have already spoken, stands at the mouth of 
the river, overlooking Lough Foyle. The " Allan" and "Anchor" 
lines of steamships call at Lough Foyle on their voyages to and 
from America. 

Excursions can be made from Londonderry to Malin Head 
(by rail to Bimcrana) and to Inishowen (by public car to Moville, 
thence by hired car, twenty-five miles.) 

The drive from Bucrana to Malin Head is twenty-six miles. 
The principal points of interest are Bucrana Castle, an old fortress 
of the O'Donnells ; eight miles further the Gap of Mamore ; the 
Cliffs of Dunaff (505 feet high) ; the neat little town of Cordonagh, 
on Trawbreaga Bay; then Malin, from which the Head is but eight 
miles distant. This is the most northern point of Ireland, and 
though but 226 feet in height commands an extensive view of 
the coast. 

The drive to Inishowen Head takes the tourist past some fine 
country seats : the picturesque little watering-place, Moville ; 
Greencastle (where the American mail steamers call), an ancient 
stronghold of the O'Dogherty's ; Dunagree Lighthouse ; and the 
Head itself. The view from the Head extends as far as Bengore 
Point, including Portrush, the Skerries, and the Causeway. 

Londonderry to Belfast, via Giant's Causeway. 
The railway from Londonderry to Coleraine runs along the shore 



PORTRUSH— GIANTS CAUSEWAY. 161 

of Lough Foyle, passing Newtown-Limavady on the right. There 
are some beautiful country seats in this neighbourhood, amongst 
which Bellarena, the demesne of Sir F. Heygate, may be men- 
tioned. From this to Magilligan, the cliffs tower overhead to a 
considerable height, forming a picturesque background. After 
passing Castlerock the line winds round by the banks of the Bann 
to Coleraine, where the tourist must change carriages for Portrusb. 
Coleraine, famous for the quality of its linens and whisky, is 
about four miles from the sea. Our next station is Port Stewart, 
a rather pretty watering-place, and then we come to 

Portrush 

[Hotels : " Coleman's " and the " Antrim Arms "], 
the port of Coleraine, from which it is distant only seven miles. 
At Portrush the tourist takes a car, and proceeds along a road 
overlooking a fine sandy beach for three miles, when he reaches 
one of the most picturesque ruins in Ireland, the far-famed Castle 
of Dunluce. It stands on an isolated rock, which rises abruptly 
to the height of 120 feet above the waters. The building occupies 
the whole surface of the rock, the perpendicular sides of which 
look as if they were a continuation of the walls. The chasm 
which separates it from the shore was crossed by two walls, upon 
which the drawbridge was wont to be lowered. Its date and 
founder are unknown, but about the year 1580 it belonged to 
McQuillan, from whom it went to the McDonnells of the Isles. 
It is now in the possession of the Earl of Antrim, a descendant 
of that sept. The country people believe that a banshee resides 
in a small vaulted room at the eastern side, and utters her 
''mournful wail" regularly at the approaching death of any 
member of the Antrim family. Two miles further we reach 
Bushmills, an old town deriving its name from the fine salmon 
river Bush ; and after another drive of two miles we arrive at 
the famous 

Giant's Causeway. 

For a detailed account of this wonderful natural phenomenon the 
tourist may consult " Shaw's Guide" to the district; our remarks 
here must necessarily be very brief. The name has originated 
from the legend that assigns the existence of the Causeway to 
the labours of one " Fin McCoul," an Irish giant, who con- 
structed it that a Scotch giant might walk across, in order to 
have a trial of strength between them. Fin was, of course, the 
victor ; but he generously allowed his beaten adversary to settle 
in Ireland. So, there being no longer any necessity for the 
Causeway, it was allowed to be washed away by the action of 
the waves. Fiction apart, there remain now the portion visible 



II 



1 62 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

on this coast, a few remnants at Rathlin Island, and some at the 
Scotch extremity, at Staffa. Sir Walter Scott gives the follow- 
ing summary of his impressions derived from a visit in 1 8 14. 




Ladies' Wishing Chair. 



Having described the shores as extremely striking, he says, — 

"They open into a succession of little bays, each of which has precipitate 
banks, graced with long ranges of the basaltic pillars, sometimes placed above 
each other, and divided by masses of intervening strata or by green sloping 
banks of earth of extreme steepness. These remarkable ranges of columns 
are in some places chequered by horizontal strata of a red rock, or earth, of 
the appearance of ochre ; so that the green of the grassy banks, the dark 
grey or black appearance of the columns, with those red seams and other 
varieties of the interposed strata, have most uncommon and striking effects. 
The outline of these cliffs is as striking as their colouring. In several places 



the earth has wasted away from single columns, and left them standing iso- 
lated and erect, like the ruined colonnade of an ancient temple, upon the 
verge of the precipice. In other places the disposition of the basaltic ranges 
presents singular appearances, to which the guides give names agreeable to 
the images they are supposed to represent." 

Some of these names are : The Chimney Tops (so called because 
they were mistaken by one of the ships of the Armada for the 
"Chimneys" of Duniuce Castle), the Honeycomb, the Loom, the 
Organ, and the Theatre. The cave of Portcoon is a little to 




Giant's Loom. 



the west of the Causeway, and can be visited by land or water. 
The echo is very fine, though some prefer that of Dunkerry Cave, 
which can be visited by water only. Should the tourist desire 
it, he can put up at the " Causeway Hotel" (where guides to 
the Causeway are obtained), situated just over the rugged path- 
way, descending to the shore. As two days, at the least, ought 



1 64 LONDON AXD XORTH-WESTERX GUIDE. 

to be allowed for viewing this " wonder of the world/"' this 
plan is worth considering. 

Having gratified his curiosity about all the marvels from the 
Great Steucan to the Pleaskin and Bengore Head, the tourist 




Giant's Organ. 



proceed: 
towards 
where — 



farther eastward by the old road, on the second day, 
the Cape of Dunseverick, leaving behind the headlands 

<{ Dark o'er the foam-white waves 
The Giant's pier the war of tempests braves : 
A far projecting, firm basaltic way 
Of clustering columns, wedged in dense array, 
With skill so like, yet so surpassing art, 
With such design, so just in every part, 
That reason pauses, doubtful if it stand 
The work of mortal or immortal hand." 



CARRICK-A-REDE BRIDGE. 



165 



Dunseverick Castle, 
like Duniuce, crowns the summit of an isolated rock. Similarly 
to Dunluce, its foundation also dates beyond the memory of man. 
It is certain, however, that the rock was fortified before the in- 
troduction of Christianity, though the ruins which occupy its 
surface at present cannot be of much earlier date than the twelfth 
century. Still keeping the old road, the tourist soon reaches the 
village of Ballintoy, a mile from which, connected by a path 
leading through fields, is the weird chasm crossed by 

Carrick-a-Rede Bridge. 

The abyss, eighty feet deep and about sixty feet wide, is spanned 




Carrick-a-Rede Bridge. 

by a swinging bridge, t ormed by two parallel ropes, on which 
are laid some planks ; another thin rope for the hand stretches 
across at one side. One experiences a sensation almost pain- 
ful at the sight of men and boys crossing this precarious path 
with heavy loads on their backs. They seem, however, to think 
little of the dangerous footway, the very appearance of which 
makes the tourist dizzy. Carrick-a-Rede means the "Rock 
in the Road, " and is so called because it stops the passage of the 
salmon along the coast. The rock is inhabited only during the 



1 66 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

fishing season in the summer, after which the men engaged in the 
fishery leave their rocky home and take up the bridge. 

In the immediate vicinity are several caves, the principal of 
which (thirty-six feet high and seventy wide at the entrance) has 
its sloping sides and roof formed of columnar basalt, like the 
Causeway. We next pass Kenboan, or the "White Head," a 
promontory of limestone and chalk, on which are the ruins of an 
old castle. 

Three miles from this is 

Ballycastle 

[Hotels : " Antrim Arms " and " Royal "], 

a town of about two thousand inhabitants. Coal is the only pro- 
duction of consequence near the town, so that the fine quay erected 
by Mr. Boyd is comparatively useless. In the year 1 770 the miners 
struck on a passage conducting to thirty-six chambers, "all trimmed 
and dressed by excellent hands ; also baskets and mining instru- 
ments ; " showing that the mine must have been worked pre- 
viously. Tradition assigns this early working of the mine to the 
Danes. Outside Ballycastle Bay, at about five miles' distance, is 
the island of Rathlin, interesting to geologists as well as to anti- 
quarians. There is little doubt that Rathlin must at one time 
have formed part of the county of Antrim ; and Dr. Hamilton was 
even of opinion that it is " the surviving fragment of a large tract 
of country which at some period of time has been buried in the 
deep, and may formerly have united Staffa and the Causeway." 
The geological structure is certainly the same. The ruins of 
Brace's Castle are on the headland at the eastern end of the 
island, facing Scotland. Here the ill-fated Robert Bruce sought 
shelter during his wars with Baliol for the throne. The Scottish 
coast can be seen from the ruins. 

Resuming our route to Larnc, we pass the abbey ruins of 
Bona-Margy, in the cemetery of which are the remains of the 
Earls of Antrim. Near this abbey are some ruins of their castle, 
By diverging from the main road the tourist gains the summit of 
the Fairhead cliffs, in which is a deep fissure, known as the "Grey 
Man's Path," supposed by the country people to have been cleft by 
the "Great Man of the North Sea," as a passage to the top of the 
head. The tourist will not fail to be struck by the contrast be- 
tween the superstitions of the northern and southern peasantry of 
Ireland, owing', we presume, to the difference in the scenery by 
which they are surrounded. The Leprechauns and Clurichauns of 
the south are here exchanged for a race of giants. Cape Benmore, 
or Fairhead, rises about 636 feet above the level of the sea, 
and has two small lakes on its summit, one of which contains an 



CUSHENDALL— GLENARM— LARNE. 167 

island, supposed to have been used as a place of worship by the 
Druids. The scenery along the shore of M urlough Bay, and on 
to the village of Cushendun and the viaduct over the Glendun 
River, is of "unspeakable grandeur and beauty." In this 
neighbourhood are said to have resided Fin McCoul and the 
poet Ossian. The grave of the latter is even pointed out, as well 
as that of a Scotch giant slain by him. At 

Cushendall 

[Hotel : " Martin's "], 

is one of the most charmingly situated hamlets in Antrim. Driving 
round Red Bay, the most beautiful of the bays on this coast, 
the tourist reaches the fine glen called Glenariff, or Waterfoot, 
where is a harbour of refuge. 

Continuing round Red Bay, the traveller reaches Garron Point, 
commanding a splendid view north and south, with the pictur- 
esque Garron Tower on the right, the residence of the Marquis 
of Londonderry. Three miles further on, the traveller still 
keeping close to the sea-shore, is Carnlough, in the centre of a 
vale of the same name. Again resuming the ride round this 
beautiful coast the tourist reaches 

Glen arm 

[Hotel : " Antrim Arms "], 

situated at the mouth of one of the many picturesque glens to be 
found in Antrim. Glenarm Castle is the seat of the Antrim 
family. From Glenarm to Lame, the new road conducts the 
tourist past Cairnes Castle, Ballygawley Head, Shaw's Castle, 
and the high circular precipices known as Sallagh Braes. In the 
town of 

Larne 

[Hotel : " King's Arms "], 

there is little to interest the tourist ; but in the vicinity are the 
ruins of Olderfleet Castle, where Edward Bruce landed in 131 5, 
with 6,000 men, to conquer Ireland. 

On all clays of the week, except Sunday, a steamer leaves 
Larne in connection with the Northern Counties Railway Com- 
pany of Ireland and the Caledonian and North- Western Com- 
panies of Great Britain. Through booking arrangements by 
this route are in operation between Belfast, Larne, and all prin- 
cipal towns in the north of Ireland, to Carlisle, Glasgow, 
Edinburgh, the Lake District, Preston, Liverpool, Manchester, 
Birmingham, and London. The passage is made in daylight, 
and occupies about two hours sea passage, and one hour loch 



168 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

sailing, thus connecting Great Britain by the shortest sea route 
with Belfast and the north of Ireland. 

The tourist takes the train here for Belfast, via Carrickfergus. 
The line lies along the west side of Lough Lame, passing 
through Glynn and Ballycarry, where, in i6h, was built the 
first Presbyterian church in Ireland. Here also are the ruins 
of Templecoran. After Ballycarry we reach Kilroot, in the 
ruined church of which Dean Swift preached. The train, still 
keeping between lofty hills and the shore of Belfast Lough — or 
Carrickfergus Bay, as it is also called — now speeds on to 

Carrickfergus 

[Hotel: "Victoria"], 
one of the most ancient towns in Ireland, and intimately con- 
nected with the history of the country. Some interesting remains 
of the fortifications are still to be seen — the " North Gate" being 
almost perfect. The Castle, too, is in a good state of preserva- 
tion, notwithstanding that time, "the beautifier of ruins," has 
added so much to its picturesqueness. On the quay is pointed 
out the stone upon which William, " of glorious, pious, and im- 
mortal memory," placed his foot, when he landed for the first 
time in Ireland. As the train approaches Belfast, we can see 
Cave Hill, from which a fine view of the city and envirous is 
obtained. 



EXCURSION VI. 

DIRECT FROM PORTRUSH FOR GIANT'S CAUSEWAY 
BY RAIL, via ANTRIM AND CARRICKFERGUS JUNC- 
TION. 

LEAVING the Giant's Causeway and Portrush, we pass 
Port Stewart, a small bathing place, of which Dr. Adam 
Clarke, the commentator, was a native, and to whom a monument 
was erected in 1859, and arrive at 

Coleraine 

[Hotels : " Clothworker's Arms " and "Hurley's "], 
a borough town, with a population of 5,631, who return one 
member to parliament. A sand bank at the mouth of the 
Bann, on which it stands, prevents vessels of heavy tonnage 
passing up. The town is large and handsome, and contains a 
church built in 16 14, with old tombs, which stands on the site of 
the priory and old abbey. 



BALLYMONEY, ETC.— BELFAST. 169 

Ballymoney 

[Hotels : " Commercial " and " Royal "] 
has a population of 2,600, engaged in the linen and butter 
trades. Close at hand are Leslie Hill and O' tiara Brook. 
Passing Bellaghy we arrive at 

Ballymena 

[Hotels : "Adair Arms," " Roe's," " Kennedy's," and " Temperance "], 
a thriving linen town in County Antrim. Here are the ruins ot 
an old castle founded by the Adairs, which the rebels held in 
1798. The next town of note after passing Cookstown Junc- 
tion is 

Antrim 

[Hotel : " Commercial "], 
a small town which gives name to Antrim County, with a 
population of 2, 138. St. Patrick founded a church here in 495, 
which the present structure replaces. Close at hand is a perfect 
round tower, 95 feet high, well worth examination. Two miles 
from Antrim is Shane's Castle, the seat of the O'Neills. It is 
supposed to be haunted by the banshee, whose wail is heard 
whenever one of the O'Neills die. This is firmly believed. A 
bloody or red hand is the arms of Ulster, from the story that the 
" first O'Neill was one of a company, the leader of whom pro- 
mised that whoever touched the land first should have it. O'Neill, 
seeing another boat ahead of his, took a sword, cut off his left 
hand, flung it ashore, and so was first to touch it." 

The next stage in the journey is from Antrim to Carrickfergus 
Junction, and thus on to 

Belfast. 

[Hotels: l< Royal" and "Imperial," in Donegal Place; "Commercial, 
in connection with the Commercial Buildings; The "Queen's Arms," in 
York Street ; and the " Victoria," in Waring Street.] 

Belfast is the most prosperous town in Ireland. No town, in 
fact, of the entire kingdom has advanced with more rapid strides 
than this centre of Irish industry. This is the more striking 
when contrasted with the condition of so many of the places 
through which we have already conducted the tourist — places 
whose ancient importance is now attested only by crumbling 
ruins and dusty records. So little can Belfast boast of her anti- 
quity, that there is probably no house in the town more than 150 
years old. But she is increasing at something like the rate of 
1,500 new houses per annum, and her population has more than 
quadrupled since the census of 1 82 1. As has been remarked by 
a native speaker, "Year by year Belfast is changing its aspect, 



170 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

and overstepping its boundaries, climbing the hill -side, skirting 
the river's margin, and even invading the sea's ancient domain." 
It is worthy of remark, too, that this prosperity is in no way 
due to Government patronage. The persevering industry of her 
sturdy citizens has been the only fostering influence that has pro- 
duced this wonderful growth, which we hope may some day 
be imitated by other towns in the country. Belfast is a corrup- 
tion of " Bcal na farsad" signifying " the Mouth of the Ford." 
This "Ford " was not formerly navigable all the way to Belfast, 
but in 1840 a new cut was made, which now permits vessels 
drawing twenty feet of water to come up on spring tides. Three 
bridges span the Lagan — Queen's Bridge (a fine structure, built of 
granite), Lagan Bridge, and the Ormeau Bridge. The streets are 
clean, well-paved, and well kept, notwithstanding that it is so 
large a manufacturing place. 

The public buildings of Belfast are many of them worthy of this 
growing town. Among them may be noticed the Belfast Bank, 
at the corner of Waring and Donegal Streets, directly opposite 
the Commercial Buildings. The bank is housed in a structure of 
mixed architectural character, being composed of the two orders, 
Doric and Corinthian. The Ulster Bank is another handsome 
structure, in Waring Street. A dome surmounting the interior 
contains stained-glass portraits of several eminent men. The 
Northern Bank, in the High Street, occupies a site opposite the 
Albert Memorial. The Commercial Buildings were erected at a 
cost of ,£20,000. It is a most convenient structure, containing 
a handsome assembly room and reading-room. The Royal 
Society for the Promotion and Improvement of the Growth of 
Flax in Ireland is housed in this building. The flourishing con- 
dition of the northern portion of Ireland at the present moment 
is almost wholly due to the well-directed operation of this use- 
ful society. The Custom Llouse and Post Office are parts of a 
fine large structure occupying a site between the lower extremity 
of High Street and Albert Square. It is a Palladian building, and 
was finished in 1857. This group of public offices includes the 
Inland Revenue Office, Stamp Office, and an office of the Board of 
Local Marine. The Long Room of the Custom House, 70 feet 
by 30 feet, and 25 feet in height, contains sculptured designs by 
Samuel Lynn, representing Manufacture, Peace, Commerce, and 
Industry. The Harbour Office, at the head of the Clarendon 
Dock, is an imposing edifice. The Court House, built in 1850, is 
a very imposing edifice, admirably arranged for the convenience 
of dispensers of justice. The royal arms occupy the tympanum 
of the pediment, while an emblematical figure of Justice surmounts 
the apex. The public hall is about 35 feet in height by 47 feet 
wide each way. The Gaol is opposite the Court House, and is 



BELFAST. 171 



capable of holding 300 prisoners. The Belfast Museum occupies 
the northern side of College Square. It contains a rich collec- 
tion of Irish antiquities, well worthy of a visit, a geological 
collection, and a series of ornithological specimens. The Linen 
Hall is a building erected in 1715, at a cost of ,£10,000. It 
occupies the centre of Donegal Square, on a site granted by the 
Earl of .Donegal. The Ulster Hall was erected in 1862 as a 
concert-room and a hall for public meetings. The hall seats 
3,000 people, and contains a large organ. The Queen's College 
is a handsome brick structure pointed with stone. The tower 
rising to the height of 100 feet surmounts the chief doorway. The 
entire length is 600 feet ; it consists of a centre of 300 feet, and 
two wings each 150 feet. It was opened in 1849, with 175 
students. The Presbyterian College is an elegant structure at the 
extremity of University Square. The cost was defrayed by the 
voluntary contribution of the Presbyterian body. It was opened 
by Dr. Merle D'Aubigne, the author of the "History of the Refor- 
mation." The Presbyterian Meeting House in Rosemary Street 
is the handsomest chapel belonging to the denomination in 
Belfast. It is classic in style, and was built at a cost of ,£10,000. 
St. Ann's Parish Church, Donegal Street, was erected by the 
Marquis of Donegal in 1776. Trinity Church was erected in 
1843, a t the expense of William Wilson, Esq. The Albert 
Memorial and Clock Tower is a striking addition to the many 
architectural features of Belfast. It stands at the foot of High 
Street, and is 147 feet in height and 10 feet in diameter. A statue 
of the Prince occupies a niche in the shaft of the tower. To the 
lover of the vegetable kingdom the Botanic Garden will be attrac- 
tive. It contains a fine collection of the heaths found in Irish bogs, 
and other indigenous plants of Ireland. The principal conservatory 
is of iron ; it is light and airy in appearance. Ship-building is 
largely carried on ; and the extensive iron ship-building yard of 
the Messrs. Harland and Wolff, on Queen's Island, calls for special 
notice. The vessels of the White Star Line of Packets were 
built by this firm, and the yard is placed on the Admiralty list 
as suitable for building for the Royal Navy. The harbour is 
under the control of commissioners elected by the ratepayers. 

The linen trade of Belfast received a great impetus during the 
American war, and many new spinning and weaving factories, 
bleaching works, etc., were erected, and all the subsidiary trades 
engaged in connection with this industry were largely increased. 
But the flax mills are the most interesting buildings in connection 
with Belfast industry. One of these establishments, Mr. Mulhol- 
land's, now worked by the York Street Spinning Company, alone 
employs 1,500 hands. The tourist is recommended, however, to 
visit also the smaller but more compact mill belonging to Mr, An- 



172 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

drews. Other objects deserving notice might be enumerated, but 
those mentioned will content the tourist, who, however, should not 
finally bid farewell to Belfast without having a bird's eye view from 
Cave Hill. " This hill is basaltic in its formation, and has two 
caves and a fort, belonging in former times to the sept of McArt. 

Excursions may be made from Belfast to Holywood, Bangor, 
and Donaghadee, and to Shane's Castle, on Lough Neagh. 

For Donaghadee, Bangor, or Holywood, the two latter water- 
ing places on Belfast Lough, the tourist takes train at the Queen's 
Bridge station, and proceeds as far as Comber, where carriages 
must be changed for Donaghadee. This little seaport (Commercial 
Hotel) was some time ago a place of some note through being 
one of the Government steam-packet stations, and much money 
was spent on the construction of the harbour and lighthouse. 
Overlooking the town on the north-east is a rath 140 feet high 
and 480 feet in circumference round the base. This has been 
converted into a powder magazine, with a castellated wall sur- 
rounding it. From this wall the coast of Scotland and the Isle of 
Man may be seen, for Donaghadee is the nearest point of commu- 
nication between Great Britain and Ireland. In the summer 
months there is also steamer communication between Belfast, 
Bangor, Holywood, and Donaghadee. 

A far more interesting excursion from Belfast is that to 

Lough Neagh. 

To reach this, the fourth largest lake in Europe, the tourist 
must hire a conveyance and drive by road, or go by rail from the 
Northern Counties Railway Station in York Street to Antrim, 
which is situated on the finest part of the shores of the Lough. 
Castle Antrim demesne extends for two miles on the Lough's shores 
to the south of the town, and Viscount O'Neill's park stretches for 
three miles to the west. The former has some fine old timber, 
and the gardens are especially worth a visit. They are arranged 
in the Louis Quinze style, in long straight avenues, decorated 
at each side by flower-beds and trees. Shane's Castle is con- 
sidered to stand on the best wooded demesne in the north of 
Ireland, and is so called from its ancient owner, Shane O'Neill, 
King of Ulster, who flourished during the reign of Elizabeth. 
The castle continued to be the residence of his posterity until 
18 16, when it was accidentally burned. The fortified esplanade 
and conservatory were additions that were built at the time of the 
fire. The best views of the lough are to be had from Shane's 
Castle and Mount Divis. 

Lough Neagh contains 98,255 statute acres, and is sixteen 
miles in length and nine in breadth. Its greatest depth is 102 
feet, at a point near Skady Island, but its average depth is only 



from thirty-nine to forty-two feet, so that, as a rule, its bottom is 
of greater elevation than the sea. Its waters are fed by the rivers 
Bann (Upper), Blackwater, Mainwater, Six-mile- water, and 
Balinderry. In contrast with the scenery through which we 
have lately brought the tourist the shores of Neagh must appear 
tame and its waters a dreary expanse. Its margin is generally 
flat and boggy, especially to the south, and its waters are so 
calm that it has frequently been frozen over. In 1814, Colonel 
Heyland rode on horseback over it. It is best seen from the 
north and east points. 

There is first class mail steamship service between Belfast and 
Fleetwood (Lancashire) every evening (Sundays excepted) at 7.30 
p.m., with through booking arrangements to all the principal 
stations of the London and North-Western Railway in England. 
The steamers on this route are very strong, with superior ac- 
commodation for passengers ; they are fast boats, timed to arrive 
at Fleetwood so as to catch the first trains to Preston, Man- 
chester, Liverpool, Birmingham, and London. There is also 
steamboat communication from Belfast to many other seaport 
towns in England, Ireland, and Scotland. 



SECTION VIII. 

BELFAST TO NEWRY, 

'IP HIS excursion may be made by two routes : (1) By Ulster 
A Railway (Victoria Street Station); and (2) by County 
Down Railway (Queen's Bridge Station), via Downpatrick and 
Newcastle, and thence by car to Kilkeel, and so round the 
Mourne Mountains by the coast road to Rosstrevor and Warren- 
point to Newry. 

Belfast to Newry, via Portadown. 

This route brings the tourist along the valley'of the Lagan 
to Lisburn. On his right hand stretches the chain of hills 
which extends from the latter town to White Head, in 
which the northern shore of Belfast Lough terminates. The 
first station is at the compact little hamlet of Dunmurry (four 
miles from Belfast). We then (at seven and a half miles) come 



to Lisburn, on the Lagan, a very busy trading town for its size. 
In Lisburn Church is a monument to Jeremy Taylor. 

Before reaching Moira, seven miles farther, we pass the ruins 
of the old church and round tower of Trummeiy, interesting for 
the light the latter has thrown on the origin of these structures, 
human remains having been discovered beneath its foundation. 
Five and a half miles farther Lurgan station is reached. At a 
short distance to the left is seen the town, and the handsome 
Elizabethan mansion and beautifully laid out grounds of Lord 
Lurgan's demesne. Though Lurgan is the most cleanly and 
improved of the northern smaller towns, and has a considerable 
linen trade, it was unknown to fame until the celebrated grey- 
hound, "Master Magrath," immortalized it by winning the "blue 
ribbon " in the contest for the Waterloo Cup. This public 
favourite died not long since, and a handsome monument has 
been erected over his remains. Five miles from Lurgan is the 
thriving thoroughfare town of Portadown, which is the junction ot 
the principal northern lines of railway, and has a water commu- 
nication with Lough Neagh, Belfast, and Newry. The train 
thus far is elevated considerably over the low ground of the 
valley, and commands fine views of the adjacent country on 
either hand. From this point to Tandragee and Gilford (thirty 
miles from Belfast) the country is remarkably fertile, but subject 
to be flooded in winter, in consequence of its low level and 
the number of rivers by which it is watered. Often, for weeks, 
the entire district presents the appearance of a vast lake, stretch- 
ing away north to the swampy shore of Lough Neagh. We 
now pass Scarvagh, where a branch line from Lisburn, via Hills- 
borough, Dromore, and Banbridge, joins the main line. This 
branch has some claim to be mentioned, as the cathedral at 
Dromore was built by Jeremy Taylor, and Banbridge is a com- 
mercial town fast rising to importance, having thread-spinning, 
cloth-weaving, and linen factories well worth visiting. 

Two miles south of Scarvagh we reach Poyntzpass, so called 
because Lieutenant Poyntz, of Elizabeth's army, forced a passage 
here through the Earl of Tyrone's troops. At Goragh Wood the 
tourist must change carriages for Newry. The junction line 
from Goragh Wood runs down a steep incline to 

Newry 

[Hotels : " Victoria" and " Imperial ' ; J, 
which lies in a sheltered nook, between the Mourne and 
Carlingford mountain ranges. It is built partly in the county of 
Armagh and partly in the county of Down, which are separated 
by the tidal river called Newry Water, and the canal, which 
extends to Lough Neagh. Warrenpoint, the port of Newry, is 



about six miles distant ; but vessels not drawing more than six- 
teen feet of water can sail up to the town. As the tourist speeds 
down the incline to N.ewry, he can appreciate the splendid viaduct 
which crosses Graigmore ravine. This achievement of modern 
engineering is 2,000 feet in length, and consists of eighteen arches, 
from fifty to 100 feet high. The old portions of Newry, on the 
declivity, are irregularly but picturesquely built; the modern 
streets, however, on the low ground are broad, and the shops and 
houses are good. 

The history of Newry comprises the usual series of internal 
feuds, incursions by neighbouring chieftains, and final subjugation 
under English rule. The commencement of its present improve- 
ment and prosperity dates from the completion of the canal 
communication with Lough Neagh. The surroundings of Newry 
are exceedingly fine. On the north is a well-cultivated agricul- 
tural district, varied with handsome country seats, factories, and 
bleaching-greens. On the south the mountain-locked bay 
stretches to the sea, looking like an inland lake amid the wooded 
mountains. On the west the Slieve Gullion Mountains rise to 
the height of 1,385 feet, while the Mourne range overlooks the 
town from the east. 

The tourist can stay at Newry, or proceed by train to Warren- 
point [Hotels: "Victoria" and "Crown"], five miles from Newry, 
where the river opens into the lough, or he can make the delight- 
ful little watering-place of Rosstrevor, which he reaches by ; bus 
or car from Warrenpoint, his head- quarters for a few days. 
From Warrenpoint or Rosstrevor the tourist should take a trip 
by car to Kilkeel, and round the Mourne Mountains by the coast 
road to Newcastle. First-class public cars run between Warren- 
point, Kilkeel, and Newcastle. On the road from Newry to 
Warrenpoint stands Narrow-water Castle, erected by the Duke 
of Ormonde, in 1663, on the rock which juts out to the centre 
of the river. The situation of this square keep is at once pic- 
turesque and commanding, being an effectual guard to the only 
approach to Newry. Passing Warrenpoint, and keeping close 
to the shelving pebbly shore towards Rosstrevor, we cGme to 
the Obelisk raised to the memory of Major-General Ross, who 
fell at the battle of Baltimore. Still hugging the coast, we 
proceed to Ballyedmond, half a mile beyond which, after cross- 
ing the Causeway-water, the road leaves the coast, and conducting 
us through a well-cultivated tract of country by Mourne Park, 
again approaches the coast at Kilkeel. We push on to New- 
castle by the road running along the coast under the Mourne 
Mountains, and then return to Newry by the same route, or via 
Rathfryland, and Hilltown, thus making a circuit round the 
entire range. 



176 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

EXCURSION VII. 

BELFAST TO NEWRY, via NEWCASTLE. 

*T*HE second and most interesting route from Belfast to Newry, 
X by the County Down Railway from Queen's Bridge Station, 
leads through Comber, via Downpatrick to Newcastle, where 
the train stops. The tourist will now take the well-appointed 
public car to Kilkeel (ten Irish miles), and round the coast to 
Rosstrevor and Warrenpoint, and thence by rail to Newry. 

Downpatrick 

[Hotel : " Denver's "] 

is supposed to be the most ancient town in Ireland. It is situated 
about a mile from the south-western extremity of Strangford 
Lough. It is built on a series of low hills, and has an Irish, 
English, and Scotch district, like the Ramnes, Titienses, and 
Luceres of the Roman City. The old cathedral is said to have 
been founded by St. Patrick, in 432, and is supposed to contain 
his remains, together with those of St. Bridget and Columbkill. 
Over the east window are niches which formerly contained statues 
of the saints ; and on a stone tablet beneath (no longer existing) 
was the following elegaic couplet : — 

" Hi tres in duno tumulo tumulantur in uno, 
Brigida, Patritius, atque Columba Pius." 

There is also near the town an ancient fort, Saul Abbey, and Inch 
Abbey, all three remarkable and venerable ruins. From Slieve-na- 
Griddle, the highest of the hills encircling the town, a commanding 
view may be had of the town, the ruins, the Mourne Mountains, 
and Lough Strangford, 'with its group of islands. About half a mile 
from Slieve-na-Griddle are the " Wells of Struel," the waters of 
which were supposed to have extraordinary healing qualities. 
The country lying between Downpatrick and Newcastle on the 
north and south, and between Castlewellan and Dundrum on 
the east and west — particularly Castlewellan demesne — contains 
some of the happiest combinations of wood, water, and mountain 
scenery to be found in Ulster. Dun Scotus, the famous "wise 
man" of the thirteenth century, was a native of Downpatrick. 

Newcastle 

[Hotel: " Annesley Arms "], 

the Scarborough of Ireland, is thirteen miles from Downpatrick. 
It is so called from the castle built there in the year of the 
Spanish Armada ; but there is no vestige of the castle now, the 
site being occupied by the Baths. 



NEWCASTLE. 177 



Sliev Donard rises 2, 796 feet above the level of the sea ; it 
is of easy access from Newcastle, and will repay the trouble of 
ascent. This thriving and cheerful little town stands at the 
head of the most westernly sweep of Dundrum Bay. Many 
of the aristocracy and wealthy classes from all parts of 
Ireland resort here in summer, because of its attractions — its 
salubrious air, its pure sea water, flowing over a fine sandy 
beach, and the exquisite beauty and wild grandeur of its mag- 
nificent scenery. Glorious coast views are secured from the 
promenade, which skirts the bay. The wild, varied, and ro- 
mantic scenery of Tollymore Park, and the pleasure grounds 
around Donard Lodge are, with generous courtesy, thrown 
open to the public by the noble owners. The following 
extract justly describes the attractions of Newcastle : — " This 
fashionable watering place has become this summer more attrac- 
tive than ever. Nature has done much to make it beautiful, and 
art has not been wanting to increase its beauties. The towering 
mountain and the glorious sea invite visitors by their grandeur 
and beauty. The romantic and tastefully adorned grounds 
which encompass Donard Lodge possess peculiar attractions, 
while, not far distant, Tollymore Park promises many a delightful 
walk and pleasant drive. Various improvements have been made 
in the neighbourhood of the spa, both in the matter of increased 
accommodation and various local improvements, while several 
additional lodging-houses for the accommodation of visitors have 
been recently fitted up and furnished in a superior manner. 
'We may also enumerate the following : — A carriage-road has 
been formed, affording a delightful drive along the mountain, 
as far as the quarries. Walks leading to the ' Hermit's Glen ' 
and the waterfall have been laid out along the river's sides. 
Several pretty bridges have been erected across the river, and 
rustic seats have been formed in numerous places, from which 
the river may be seen to most advantage. Considerable taste 
has been displayed in the formation of a place, called the 'Rockery,' 
which is composed of peculiar stones found on the mountain, 
thrown into a variety of forms, intermixed with shrubs and 
flowers and intersected by walks. In order that intellectual 
entertainment may not be wanting, it is in contemplation to 
establish a news-room in the town, the want of which has been 
hitherto felt. The delightful weather that prevails 'adds its 
charms to increase the pleasure which is to be obtained by a 
sojourn at Newcastle." 

From Newcastle the tourist can reach Newry by road, by 
Norton and Shaw's well-appointed two-horse long car, via 
Kilkeel and Rosstrevor. 

Leaving this picturesque and truly delightful little bathing- 

12 



178 LONDON AAD NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

place, we pass along the Mourne shore through a singularly wild- 
featured and sublime landscape. On our left is the broad ex- 
panse of the Irish Sea ; on our right a grand Alpine region of 
cloud-embosomed mountains overhangs the road. After we leave 
the town the rocks rise perpendicularly, and to a height of more 
than ioo feet from the sea ; wild precipices and shelving cliffs 
indented with yawning caverns, lashed by tremendous waves, 
give this coast a character of extraordinary sublimity. 

Into one of the caves, called Donard's Cave, which the pea- 
santry believe runs into the bowels of the earth, the sea rushes, 
during south-east gales, with a roar louder than the thunder of 
the tropics, over many a rough impediment, till it expands into 
a large circular basin right under the crest of Sliev Donard. 

Proceeding towards Kilkeel, we pass, about a mile and a 
half from Newcastle, St. Patrick's Stream, which precipitates 
itself down from the mountain ; and, a little farther on, Maggy's 
Leap, an immense chasm, which an old witch so named used to 
bound across on her broomstick when chased for her misdeeds, 
and thus escape her pursuers. If the tale be true, her agility at 
least equalled that of the more famous " Nanny,' 5 whose " cutty 
sark" impeded not her pursuit of Tarn O'Shanter. 

Farther on is " Armer's Hole," a place so wild and fearful as 
almost to suggest the deed of guilt from the commission of which 
it bears its name. Many of our Irish readers must have read the 
freezing tale of "Edmund Armer, the Parricide," as it appeared 
in the Belfast Whig, from the graphic pen of one whom they 
knew and admired, the late John Morgan Esq., whose genius 
will no more brighten his beloved North. 

Passing Bloody Bridge River, an old grave-yard, and the ruins 
of St. Mary's Church, Ballagh Bridge, Green Harbour (a little 
indentation in the rocks), Roaring Rocks, Rourk's Park, and 
Glassdrumman Catholic chapel, as we approach Annalong, the 
narrow belt of arable land which skirts the bases of the moun- 
tains, gradually widens, and presents a tamer but more pleasing 
aspect. It is well cultivated and good, though light land, over 
which are thickly strewn comfortable cabins and cottages, with 
a schoolhouse, a Presbyterian meeting-house, and a Catholic 
chapel ; but it has no features of general interest to attract the 
attention of the tourist, except the ancient Cromlech, at the 
northern entrance to Kilkeel. 

As we have before described the route from Newry to Kilkeel, 
we must refer the tourist for the description of the route to 
page 175. 

Tourists wishing to proceed direct trom Newry to England, vzd 
Holyhead, may proceed by rail to Warrenpoint, thence per 
London and North Western Railway Company's steamer down 



Carlingford lough to Greenore, and thence to Holyhead by the 
well-appointed fast steamboat service in connection with the 
same railway. (For description of Greenore dock, etc., see page 
1 80.) Leaving Belfast by the early morning train, Newry may be 
visited, and the tourist be enabled to reach Dublin the same 
night. But if he wishes to spend a few days in the neighbour- 
hood, he should purchase Shaw's Shilling Guide to Carlingford 
Bay. 



SECTION IX, 

NEWRY TO DUBLIN, via DUNDALK, GREENORE, AND 
DROGHEDA. 

SHOULD the visitor decide on travelling to Dublin direct, he 
will find a description of the journey as far as Newry already 
given (page 175). Instead, however, of changing trains at Goragh 
Wood, he will proceed straight on. Passing Newry, which lies 
in a valley below, a prospect of the Newry Water Valley is 
obtained, in which distance lends all its enchantment to the 
naturally lovely scene. 

Leaving Goragh Wood, the train soon enters the glen at the 
eastern side of the SHev Gullion, and, keeping the Newry 
Mountains on the west, soon reaches another beautiful glen, 
Ravensdale, which is only seventeen miles from 

Dundalk, 

[Hotel: " Arthur's."] 

This town stands at the head of a small inlet of the magnificent 
bay, called after the town. Dundalk consists of two long streets, 
which intersect each other, and some smaller ones. It has a 
flourishing trade. The ruins of its dismantled walls, attesting its 
former strength, are still to be seen. It was here that Edward 
Bruce was crowned king of Ireland, in 131 5, and here he lived 
for two years previous to his death, which took place in an en- 
gagement with the English, at Faighart, a short distance from 
the town. 



180 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

Dundalk to Greenore. 

The line from Dundalk to Greenore is about twelve miles in 
length and connects the railway system in the former town with 
the new packet station at Greenore, from whence a first-class 
steamer sails daily (Sundays excepted) to Holyhead at 8.20 p.m. 
The line of the Dundalk and Greenore Railway is carried over 
the estuaries of Castletown and Ballymascanlan by two large 
viaducts, each of twenty-two spans of nearly forty feet. The line 
traverses a very beautiful country, touching at two intermediate 
stations, Ballingan and Bush. For a part of its way it commands 
a fine view of Dundalk Bay, while on the other side rise up in 
all their rude grandeur the Carlingford mountains, down whose 
sides 

" A hundred torrents rend their furious way." 

As Greenore is approached the line curves with a view to a 
future connection with a railway now nearly constructed between 
Greenore, Carlingford, and Newry. Upon reaching Greenore 
the traveller finds himself in the presence of a splendid prospect 
of land and water, as his eye takes in a rich foreground of 
verdure on either side and a magnificent background of 
mountains. On his left the bold and rugged mountain-chain 
of Carlingford rises gradually, even from the water's edge, 
until it attains a height of 2,000 feet above the level of the sea. 
In front the view of the far-stretching waters of the lough is closed 
at»i distance of some miles by Warrenpoint and Rosstrevor, 
while to the right are disposed, in full grandeur of outline and 
colouring, the series of mountain ranges and peaks that run from 
Rosstrevor to the Mourne Mountains. In the dim distance Sliev 
Donard, the highest of the Mourne Mountains, raises his grim 
form to a height of nearly 3,000 feet. At Greenore the traveller 
will find a fine stretch of quay, a commodious terminus, and a 
well-appointed hotel. The quay is 750 feet long, and affords 
berths for two first-class steamers and other vessels. 

Dundalk to Drogheda. 

Leaving Dundalk, fifty-eight miles from Belfast, the tourist 
has an opportunity of observing the southern aspects of the 
Newry and Carlingford mountains. The surrounding district is 
remarkably fertile, and contrasts strongly with the country to the 
north of the town. Crossing the rivers Fane and Glyde, we now 
come to Castle Bellingham, famous for its ale. Five miles further 
another river is crossed, and Dunleer can be looked down on from 
the high elevation of the railway. From this point to Drogheda 
the view is much limited by rocky heights, known as the Callon 
Hills, until we pass over the Boyne viaduct, and arrive at the 



DROGHEDA, 181 



Drogheda terminus. The viaduct is a fine work. It consists 
of three beams, 550 feet long, which are supported by four piers, 
ninety-five feet high ; the distance between the two centre piers 
being 250 feet. The southern termination consists of twelve, 
and the northern of three arches, each of sixty- one feet span. 
There is another viaduct — the Newfound well — a little more to 
the north, of five semicircular arches, forty-five feet span each, 
with castellated parapets. The entire length of these viaducts is 
3,359 feet. 

Drogheda. 

[Hotel: "Imperial."] 
Drogheda is thirty-two miles from Dublin, and eighty-one from 
Belfast. It is on the banks of the Boyne, about four miles from 
the mouth. The river intersects the town ; so that the southern 
portion would be in the county of Meath and the northern in the 
county of Louth, were it not that Henry IV. raised the town and 
surrounding neighbourhood to the dignity of a separate county, 
which, by virtue of King Henry's charter, still has its separate 
assizes, etc. Its ancient name was Treadagh, and since early in 
the tenth century, when it was one of the greatest strongholds of 
the Danes, it has had more than its share in Ireland's woes. It 
was the great battle-ground for the wars of the native Irish and 
the Settlers of the Pale ; and in later times, the siege and sack 
of the town, and the massacre of its garrison and inhabitants by 
Cromwell, with minor assaults, successful and unsuccessful, gave 
a still deeper tinge to the already crimsoned page of its history. 
But the most celebrated historical event associated with Drogheda 
is the Battle of the Boyne, which was fought about a mile from 
the town. The battle-field is marked by an obelisk, 150 feet 
high, erected on the spot where it is supposed that William com- 
menced the attack, having led his forces down the road, which 
may be seen on the right hand side, as we approach the obelisk 
from the town. On the south side of the river, a ruin, on a 
gently rising ground, is pointed out as the spot where James 
stood during the early part of the conflict. Of Drogheda's ancient 
fortifications, two gates and portions of the wall still remain. 
In the older parts of the town the streets are extremely narrow 
and crowded together under the protection of the walls ; but the 
lofty gables and projecting stories will prove interesting to those 
of antiquarian tastes. The church of St. Mary and the Magdalene 
steeple are the most venerable of the ecclesiastical ruins. The 
ruins of the Dominican Abbey are also interesting, as exhibiting 
a breach made by Cromwell's cannon. Along the river up to 
Slane the scenery is very fine, and the whole district teems with 
interesting antiquarian remains. 



Dowth contains an ancient church, and some Druidical remains, 
together with a large moat, 286 feet high, supposed to have been 
a royal cemetery anterior to the era of Danish and English rule. 
There is a similar moat at New Grange. 

About five and a half miles, in a north-westerly direction from 
Drogheda, are the ruins of Mellifont Abbey, founded in 1142. 
It was one of the richest abbeys in the north of Ireland, being 
presented, on one occasion alone, amongst other offerings, with 
a gold chalice and 180 ounces of gold. After the dissolution of 
the monasteries, an ancestor of the present Marquis of Drogheda, 
to whom it was granted, converted it into a feudal castle. It 
was often besieged, and, of course, suffered severely. All that 
now remains are the Gothic doorway and a few fragments of the 
chapel. 

Three miles east of Mellifont there is a fine assemblage of 
ruins, at Monasterboice, viz. : Two chapels, the remains of a 
round tower, and St. Boyne's Cross, the most ancient religious 
relic in Ireland. 

The Hill of Tara, though no longer embellished with the 
famous "halls" in which the ancient minstrels "the soul of music 
shed" for the delight of royal ears, may claim a visit. To the 
superficial observer, unversed in legendary lore, the spot would 
appear a mere collection of hillocks, with a central one of 
conical outlines, overtopping the rest. But here, down to the 
fifth century, there was a magnificent royal palace, in which 
triennial convocations of the Irish kings assembled to enact 
and repeal laws and elect a supreme ruler. And here was the 
famous coronation stone of the Irish monarchs, which was 
removed to Scotland subsequently, whence it was brought to 
London by Edward I., and is now in Westminster Abbey. But 
all the pomp and pageantry of Tara has disappeared, without 
leaving even a wreck behind. 

" No more to chiefs and ladies bright 
The harp of Tara swells ; 
The chord alone that breaks at night 
Its tale of ruin tells." 

Tara is six miles south of Navan, which is ten miles by rail 
from Drogheda. 

Leaving behind Drogheda and the u Boyne Waters," the 
train runs in a south-easterly direction to Laytown Station, on 
the Nanny River. The view up the valley, as the train crosses 
the little estuary, is deservedly admired. From this point to 
Gormanstown the railway runs close to the shore, affording 
enjoyable prospects of the smooth shingle, and the sea, and of 
the Carlingford and Mourne Mountains, on the one hand : 



. 



and, on the other hand, of the fertile farms lying between the 
line of railway and the chain of hills stretching from Ashbourne 
to the Boyne. Two miles ere we reach Balbriggan (over which 
the train passes on a viaduct), we cross the Delvin, and enter the 
county of Dublin. Balbriggan, with its fine strand, reaching for 
miles north and south, is a neat little town, celebrated for its 
excellent hosiery. Passing Ardgillan Castle and Hampton, two 
handsome country residences overlooking the railway, we 
approach the Skerries. The line is here about half a mile from 
the coast ; but the little fishing town and the islands can be seen, 
and, perhaps, a fleet of fishing-smacks in the offing. The train 
now passes through the deep cutting of Baldungan Hill, until 
we come to the Rush Station. At Donabate the line crosses an 
estuary on a wooden viaduct, from which is seen the Isle of 
Lambay, the property of Lord Talbot de Malahide. Three and 
a half miles further south we reach Malahide town and castle. 
The estuary, at the mouth of which these are situated, is crossed 
by an embankment and wooden viaduct, 335 feet long. From 
this a good view is had of a rude specimen of the round towers 
and some ecclesiastical ruins. The train now passes through 
another deep cutting, emerging near the Howth Junction, from 
which Howth Hill is visible ; then past Raheny and Clontarf 
Castle, to the Amiens Street station, in Dublin. A short con- 
necting line, to enable passengers by this route to reach the 
terminus of the London and North- Western Railway at North 
Wall, is in course of construction. The steamers for Holyhead 
Start from the quay, which will communicate with the terminal 
station of the new line by means of covered ways, so as to pro- 
tect passengers from the inclemency of the weather. 



SECTION X. 

LONDONDERRY TO DUBLIN BY DIRECT LINE. 

LEAVING Londonderry the tourist passes successively the 
stations of Strabane, Newtown Stewart, Omagh, and Bun- 
doran Junction which have already been described, when, passing 
Ballinamallard, he arrives at 

Enniskillen, 

[Hotels: "Imperial," "White Hart," "M'Bride's," and "Enniskillen 
Arms "], 

the county town of Fermanagh, and situated in a fine spot on 



iS 4 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

an island between the upper and lower lakes of Lough Erne. 
With a population of 5,701 it returns one member to Parliament. 
In the Town Hall are the banners taken at the Battle of the 
Boyne. It is celebrated for the successful defence which the 
inhabitants made in 168S on behalf of William III. Following 
the line of the rail the tourist passes the minor stations of 
Lisbellaw, Maguire's Bridge, Lisnaskea, and Newtownbutler, 
and arrives at 

Clones, 
a town with a population of about 2.390. It has the remains of 
an abbey founded by St. Tierney. The line forms a junction 
here with the Midland Great Western Railway. Continuing the 
journey towards Dundalk, the traveller, having seen Newbliss, 
Monaghan Road, and Ballybay stations, reaches 

Castleblaney, 

where are the beautiful grounds, spacious lake, etc., of Castle- 
blaney House, formerly belonging to Lord Blayney, but now 
owned by Mr. Hope, by whom they have been most liberally 
thrown open to the public. After Culloville station succeeds 

Inniskeen, 

which was one of the chief seats of the Danes and has ruins of 
several ports. Close at hand is Cabra Castle, near the ruins of 
an old castle. The next station is Dundalk, from whence the 
route is the same as already described, via Drogheda. 



SECTION XL 

DUBLIN. 

[Hotels : u Shelbourne," in Stephen's Green ; " Gresham," 21, Upper Sack- 
ville Street ; "Morrison's," 1, Dawson Street ; " Macken's," 12, Dawson 
Street ; " Imperial," 21, Lower Sackville Street ; " Bilton," 56, Upper 
Sackville Street ; " Prince of Wales," 37, Lower Sackville Street ; "Jury's 
Commercial," 6, College Green.] 

DUBLIN is admirably situated in the valley through which the 
river Liffey flows to the sea. The estuary of the river gradually 
opens from a short distance below the city, until it expands into 
a beautiful bay semicircular in form, of which the Dubliners are 
justly proud. The metropolis does not show to advantage from 



DUBLIN. 185 

any of the approaches, whether from the " black north," as we 
bring the tourist, from the west, or even from the bay. The 
situation — on the calcareous plain reaching across the entire 
breadth of Ireland to Galway — is low, and though the public 
buildings of Dublin will compare favourably with those of any 
city in the United Kingdom, the tourist, as he approaches, sees 
no striking object, presaging what is to be expected. As he 
drives to his hotel, however, he cannot fail to be satisfied with 
the prospect afforded by the streets through which he may pass. 
The city is divided almost equally by the river, but the southern 
half is annually extending its surburban portion at a rate which 
threatens to falsify this description in a very few years. Nearly 
all the public buildings, however, are in the immediate vicinity 
of the point of intersection, and are pretty equally distributed on 
the respective banks of the river. While the district south of 
the Liffey can boast of the Bank of Ireland (Old Houses of 
Parliament), Trinity College, Dublin Castle, and the Cathedral, 
the north bank has the general Post Office, the Four Courts, the 
King's Inns, Custom House, and several handsome churches. 
The streets are for the most part broad and well-paved, except in 
some of the poorer districts ; and the squares, if they do not con- 
tain such magnificent mansions as some of the West-End squares 
in London, are, at all events, well built, and comprise large areas, 
Stephen's Green covering as much as twenty-three acres. 

Dublin is of great antiquity, being mentioned as a place of 
importance by Ptolemy (a.d. 140), who styles it Eblana Civitas. 
By the natives it was called Athcliath or Bally-Athcliath- 
dub/i Untie, i.e., "the Town of the Ford of Hurdles on the 
Black Water," because the town could only be entered then on 
the north side by means of hurdles laid over the swamp border- 
ing the unembanked river. The annals of the city tell us that 
a great battle was fought there in 291, and that St. Patrick's 
Church was founded in 448. The real foundation of Dublin, 
however, should be referred to the Danes, who made their first 
descent in 798, and, having taken possession of Dublin, Fingal, 
and the neighbourhood, proceeded to erect castles and fortifica- 
tions. Previous to this time all private houses, even the royal 
residences at Tara, were built of wattles and mud ; indeed stone 
and brick houses were not common until the reign of James I. 
From the early part of the ninth century to the battle of 
Clontarf, in 10 14, the history of Dublin is little more than a list 
of the series of expulsions and re-establishments of the Danes. 
Soon after the English, under Strongbow, had made good their 
footing in the " Pale," the extension of the walls and general 
strengthening of the defences were commenced, and in 1205 
John gave directions for the building of the Castle. From this 



1S6 LOXDOX AXD NORTH-WESTERN, GUIDE. 

period to the Commencement of the eighteenth century the 
history of Dublin is the history of Ireland's civil wars and 
insurrections. The external appearance of the city, however, 
steadily improved from the reign of Elizabeth, who founded 
Trinity College in 1591. During the reign of Charles II. four 
bridges were erected across the river. But the period of 
Dublin's chief growth in beauty and magnificence was during 
the existence of the National Parliament. In the eighteenth 
century this body lavished enormous sums in improving the Irish 
metropolis. 

The following are the principal places of note in Dublin : — 

The Parliament House, at present rented by the Directors of 
the Bank of Ireland, is situated in College Green, facing Trinity 
College, and is an imposing edifice of great beauty of design. The 
centre of the structure is an Ionic colonade, over the four central 
columns of which is a pediment, whose apex is surmounted by a 
statue of Hibernia, supported on either hand by Fidelity and Com- 
merce. At the eastern end there is a fine portico, facing College 
Street, of fine Corinthian columns, upholding a pediment crowned 
by figures of Fortitude, Justice, and Liberty. But technical de- 
scriptions of buildings can after all do little towards realizing the 
effect produced by a sight of their architectural beauty. We 
shall therefore leave the "House in College Green" to be judged 
by the tourist himself. Strangers are admitted to see the interior. 

Trinity College is a fine old pile of buildings, disposed in four 
quadrangles. The front entrance, opposite to the House of 
Parliament, 308 feet long, is four stories high, with entrance 
portico in the Ionic order. The unsightly railing which used to 
protrude far into the crowded thoroughfare has been lately re- 
moved. The new one takes in much less space, and is an orna- 
ment to the street. This enclosed space contains statues of two 
former students- " known to fame" — Oliver Goldsmith and Ed- 
mund Burke. 

The first quadrangle is called Parliament Square. It contains 
the Chapel, the Theatre or Examination Hall, and the Dining 
Halls, besides apartments for the fellows and students. The 
second quadrangle is called Library Square. The Library is 
270 feet long and contains over 200,000 volumes — not a surpris- 
ingly large number, when it is remembered that a copy of every 
book entered at Stationer's Hall in London must be sent to the 
College. The three remaining quadrangles are plain squares, 
composed of brick buildings faced with cut stone. The Museum 
contains a fair collection of the usual specimens of birds, beasts, 
and fishes, and among the antiquities are included the old horn 
of King O' Kavanagh and Brian Boroihme's harp. 

The Castle is situated on the rising ground called Cork Hill, 



in the centre of the city. It is not a handsome structure from 
an architectural point of view, having been built entirely for 
strength. It was not used as a residence for the Viceroy until 
the reign of Elizabeth, who had it fitted up for that purpose. 
The viceregal apartments, St. Patrick's Hall, and the Council 
Chamber, have finely empanelled ceilings, and some admirably 
painted portraits. The Chapel Royal, too, is interesting ; the 
carvings in black oak deserve examination. Admittance, should 
the chapel be closed, can be gained by ringing the door-bell. 

The Royal Exchange, now called the City Hall, faces Parlia- 
ment Street, at the east end of Dame Street. It is a large square 
building, of Portland stone. In front is a fine statue of " The 
Liberator, " by Hogan, while the hall contains statues of Grattan 
and George II. 

Christ Church Cathedral is interesting on account of its anti- 
quity rather than for its beauty. It was founded by the King of the 
Danes in the early part of the eleventh century, and the vaults are 
supposed to have been built even before the advent of St. Patrick. 
There are here monumental figures of Strongbow and Eva. 

St. Patrick's Cathedral occupies the site of a church supposed 
to have been built by the saint. It is situated in one of the lowest 
and dirtiest parts of the city, and was fast falling into ruin until 
the late Sir Benjamin Guinness restored it, at the cost of ;£ 150,000. 
The present structure, though not affecting to be decorated, is 
one of the most imposing buildings of the kind in the kingdom. 
In rebuilding the edifice the old design has been strictly adhered 
to. The full length is 300 feet, breadth eighty feet, and the 
length of the transepts 160 feet. The tower, which stands on the 
the north-west corner, rises to the height of 120 feet, and the 
spire is 101 feet, making in all 221 feet. The vicissitudes of 
the cathedral were manifold ; amongst the most note- worthy 
are that it was converted to the use of law courts in the reign of 
Henry VII., and that it was all but made a university. The 
principal monuments are those to Boyle, the first Earl of Cork, 
to Dean Swift, and the memorial tablet to " Stella." 

The Four Courts (i.e., Queen's Bench, Exchequer, Common 
Pleas, and Chancery) is a magnificent pile, situated on Inn's 
Quay. The front entrance has a handsome Corinthian portico, 
(six columns), surmounted by a colossal statute of Moses. 

The General Post Office is in Sackville Street. The portico, 
supported by six fluted columns, of the Ionic order, is eighty 
feet wide. The pediment is surmounted by figures of Hibernia, 
Mercury, and Fidelity. 

Opposite the General Post Office is Nelson's Monument a 
column 121 feet high, with a statue of Nelson on the top. The 
ascent is worth making for the sake of the view obtained, which, 



1 88 LONDON AND NORTHWESTERN GUIDE. 

in addition to the prospect of Dublin and the vicinity, affords 
glimpses, in clear weather, of the Mourne Mountains, in Down, 
and the beautiful district lying round the Wicklow Mountains, 
including the unsurpassed beauty of Dublin Bay, and the coast 
line along past Killiney Hill and Bray Head. 

The Custom House is a large quadrangular building, of the 
Doric order. The front entrance faces the river. It is sur- 
mounted by a fine portico, with an entablature and projecting 
cornice. A group in the tympanum represents Neptune, with 
Hibernia and Britannia, seated in a marine shell, driving away 
Famine. The building has a dome, 125 feet high, on which 
stands a statue of Hope. 

The National Gallery and the Museum of the Royal Dublin 
Society (the oldest of the kind in the United Kingdom) are 
close to each other, in the block between Kildare Street and 
Merrion Square. Near by, at No. 24, Merrion Row, the Duke 
of Wellington was born, and at No. 30, in the Square, Daniel 
O'Connell long resided. Also in the neighbourhood (Dawson 
Street), is the Royal Irish Academy, whose museum of antiqui- 
ties should be visited. Here may be seen St. Patrick's Bell, 
the celebrated Cross of Cong, the Bible of St. Columbkill, and 
other interesting relics. Any member will give an introduction 
on application. There are eight bridges across the Liffey, the 
principal of which is Carlisle Bridge, leading from Sackville 
Street to Westmoreland Street. From the centre of this bridge 
the tourist may obtain a good general view of the city. Stretching 
in a northerly direction from the bridge is Sackville Street, with 
Nelson's Pillar occupying its centre, and the General Post Office 
on the left hand side. Looking up stream he can see the Four 
Courts on the north line of quays, the course of which can be 
traced for a considerable distance. Looking down stream the 
Custom House shows boldly on the left ; and turning to the right, 
Trinity College and the Bank are seen facing each other, with 
the statue of King William III. occupying the intermediate 
space in the distance. This meagre enumeration by no means 
exhausts the number of Dublin's architectual beauties ; but space 
will not permit us to describe more. The suburban sights are 
Glasnevin Cemetery and the Botanical Gardens, on the north. 
The former contains the monuments of O' Connell and Curran. 
The gardens are on the site of the poet Tickell's demesne, and 
are laid out in a most artistic and beautiful manner. A visit 
should also be paid to the Phoenix Park, Zoological Gardens, 
and Royal Barracks. 

The following are the positions of the different Railway Termini : 
— The Great Southern and Western Railway, Kingsbridge ; Mid- 
land Great Western Railway, Broadstone; the Northern (Dublin, 



Drogheda, and Belfast) Railway, Amiens Street ; Dublin and 
Kingstown Railway, Westland Row ; Dublin and Wicklow Rail- 
way, Harcourt Street. To these we may add the extensive 
terminus now in course of construction at North Wall. The 
Great Southern and Western, the Midland Great Western, and 
the Northern lines of railway will each possess a communication 
with it. 

The Places of Amusement are as under : — Theatre Royal, in 
Hawkins Street ; the Gaiety Theatre, in Grafton Street ; Queen's 
Theatre, in Great Brunswick Street ; the Rotunda, in Great 
Britain Street ; and last, though not least, the Winter Gardens, 
at the Exhibition Palace, Harcourt Street. At both the last- 
mentioned places concerts, musical promenades, and other amuse- 
ments, are constantly taking place. For particulars, see the 
Dublin daily newspapers. 



EXCURSION TO HOWTH, via CLONTARF. 

In making this excursion the tourist will do well to take the 
'bus or a car to Clontarf, and thus view the battle-field, the 
Marathon of Ireland, on which Brian Boroihme formerly van- 
quished the Danes. The victory, however, was dearly bought 
by the Irish, inasmuch as Brian and his gallant son Murrough 
(Moore's ''Minstrel Boy") were left dead on the field. Here 
also the tourist can visit Marino, the beautiful seat of the Earl of 
Charlemont. The grounds are tastefully decorated, and the view 
from the Doric Temple, built by Sir William Chambers, extends 
over the city, Dollymount, and the bay. Clontarf Castle, the 
seat of the Vernons, is also worth visiting. Near by is the 
Raheny station, whence trains can be taken to Howth. How- 
ever, should the tourist not be attracted by Clontarf's historical 
associations, he can travel the entire distance (half an hour's 
journey) by train from the Amiens Street station. " The bold 
and nearly insulated promontory, called the Hill of Howth," says 
Dr. Petrie, "which forms the north-eastern terminus of the Bay 
of Dublin, would, in itself, supply abundant materials for a 
topographical volume — and a most interesting work it might be 
made. For the geologist, botanist, and naturalist, it has abundant 
store of attractions, while its various ancient monuments of every 
class and age, from the regal fortress, the sepulchral cairn, and 
the cromlech of Pagan times, to the early Christian oratory, the 
abbey, and the baronial hall of later years would supply an 
equally ample stock of materials for the antiquary and the 
historian." From the high ground over the Baily Lighthouse, 
we have a view of the ocean and the whole extent of the 



amphitheatre of hills surrounding the bay ; while on the left is 
the rocky isle called Ireland's Eye, and farther away to the 
north, Lambay, which we have already pointed out, with the 
bold outlines of the Mourne Mountains in the background. 
From the road leading round the Head, we look down on the 
now useless harbour of Howth, which, if built a furlong farther 
out on the head, would have admirably fulfilled the purpose for 
which it was intended ; as it is, it affords shelter only to a few 
fishing vessels, and is fast filling up with sand. The other points 
of interest are Howth Abbey and Castle, the Cromlech, and the 
Church of St. Fintan, on the southern side of the hill. The 
abbey was founded by the St. Lawrences, early in the thirteenth 
century, and contains numerous relics. 

The castle has also its relics, among which may be mentioned 
the sword of Amoricus Tristram, the founder of the St. Lawrence 
family, to whose prowess the victory at Clontarf was mainly due ; 
the ancient bells of the abbey, a full-length portrait of Dean 
Swift, and several other fine paintings. 

The original name of the family, before the battle of Clontarf, 
was Tristram, and was changed by the warrior above mentioned 
in accordance with a vow made that, if victorious, he would 
assume the name of his patron saint. The castle gates, until 
within the last few years, used always to be thrown open during 
the dinner-hour of the family. This custom was kept up in con- 
sequence of a pledge exacted from a member of the family by 
the redoubtable Grace O'Meally — Grana Uaile — who, on her 
return from her celebrated visit to Queen Elizabeth, when she 
astonished the English courtiers by heartily shaking the Queen's 
hand, graciously extended to be kissed, was refused admission 
on the ground that the family were at dinner. Offended at such 
an un-Irish want of hospitality, Grace carried off the heir ap- 
parent of the family to her island stronghold in Clew Bay, and 
restored him only on condition that St. Lawrence and his descen- 
dants should ever throw open the castle gates at dinner-time. 
This promise was faithfully adhered to until the last few years. 



SECTION XII. 

TWO DAYS' CIRCULAR TOUR THROUGH WICKLOW. 

First Day. 

r T~^HERE are two lines of railway from Dublin to Kingstown — 

X viz., the Dublin, Wicklow, and Wexford Railway, starting 



from the Harcourt Street station ; and the Dublin and Kingstown 
Railway, from the Westland Row Station. The trains on the 
latter line run every half- hour. We advise the tourist to take 
his ticket at the Westland Row station, as this line affords ex- 
cellent views of the southern suburbs of Dublin, comprehending 
Booterstown, Williamstown, Blackrock, and Monkstown. 

On leaving the station, the train runs over several streets, until it 
crosses the Grand Canal Docks, then passing the Merrion station, 
it keeps along the strand the whole way, except while passing 
through a short cutting near Blackrock. On the right-hand side 
buildings of every variety, from the neat cottage-villa to the 
grand mansion, stud the hill-side, and in most cases a prospect is 
permitted of the wooded estates and elaborately laid out gardens. 
The finest of these are Mount Merrion, the seat of the Hon. 
Sidney Herbert, and Monkstown Castle. The grounds of the 
latter residence, apart from the interesting ruins, are well deserv- 
ing of a visit, and strangers are readily admitted on sending up 
their cards. On the left hand one can see the long wall, at the 
termination of which rises the Pigeon-house Fort. This struc- 
ture runs from Ringsend towards the centre of the bay, but 
comes into view as the train proceeds along the opposite shore to 
that on which stand Dollymount and Clontarf. The whole width 
of the bay and the bold outlines of Howth Head are now ob- 
servable. But the eye is drawn to the prospect immediately 
contiguous to the railway, for here stretch the two long piers 
which embrace the magnificent artificial harbour of Kingstown, 
with its forest of masts and rigging [Hotels: "Anglesea Arms," 
and " Royal Marine"]. 

The ancient name of Kingstown was Dunleary, but on the 
failure of Howth Harbour, to satisfy the requirements of a packet 
station and harbour of refuge for vessels navigating the rough 
channel which separates the two kingdoms, Dunleary was re- 
christened, after being honoured by the presence of royalty, and 
since the landing of George IV. in 1821, has been known as 
Kingstown. The eastern pier is 3,500, the western 4,950 feet 
long, and the space inclosed is 251 statute acres. The eastern 
pier is a very fashionable promenade, and is adorned with a pillar 
marking the spot where George IV. disembarked, and an obelisk 
commemorating the death of Captain Boyd, who lost his life in 
endeavouring to afford assistance to a shipwrecked crew. The 
Royal Mail Packets start from and arrive at a short pier built 
near the eastern end of the harbour. They leave Kingstown at 
6.45 a.m. and 7.15 p.m., and arrive about 7.45 a.m., and 6 p.m., 
every day. 

The most comprehensive view of the town and harbour is ob- 
tained from the balcony in front of the railway station. Looking 



192 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

northward, Howth is seen, beyond some ten miles of sparkling 
water. Turning to the south, the Fortyfoot Road leads the eye up 
a broad causeway to the town, which rises gradually upward on an 
inclined plane from the edge of the water to a considerable eleva- 
tion. This serves to exhibit its fine terraces and residences to 
the best of advantage. If the tourist should happen to spend the 
night at Kingstown, we recommend him to take a seat, about 
sunset, near the lighthouse, at the extremity of the east pier. 
Nothing can exceed the beauty of the scene as the setting rays 
gild the sea, the rocks, the hill-side villas, and the three clubhouses, 
at the water's edge, the Royal St. George and Royal Irish 
Yacht Clubs and the Royal Kingstown Harbour Rowing Club. 

From Kingstown the railway runs over the old atmospheric 
line to Dalkey, through a deep cutting. Dalkey Island, which 
is separated by a narrow "sound," ten fathoms deep, from the 
mainland, is reached as the train emerges from the Killiney 
tunnel. In former years a comical kingdom was established on 
the island, and upheld with great pomp — his Majesty reigning 
one year, coming in and going out amid bacchanalian honours. 
A roofless church of the order of St. Benedict and a martello 
tower occupy its two extremities. The Hill of Killiney, broken 
into three summits, may be ascended by obtaining permission 
beforehand from Mr. Warren, of Rutland Square, Dublin. It 
is 474 feet in height, and being about midway between Kings- 
town and Bray, the tourist can look from one bay to the other, 
and compare the beautiful landscapes on either hand. On the 
ridge to the north, the old dismantled signal-tower overhangs the 
quarries, from which have been taken the blocks of stone with 
which Kingstown was built. In the neighbourhood are several 
Dmidical remains. The next station beyond Dalkey is Bally- 
brack, which occupies the slope of the most westerly of the 
Killiney hills, around which the train winds close to the sea. 
Flere a splendid view is presented of Bray, Shanganagh Castle, 
and other country seats, and the nearer one of the Wicklow Moun- 
tains. Sweeping along the unbroken curve of the bay, the train 
now reaches Bray. [Hotels: "Royal Marine," "International," 
and " Royal."] 

On the sea side of the railway lies the Bray Esplanade, its 
surface spreading for a mile along the coast, in the direction of 
Bray Head, which takes the eye from all the medley of terraces, 
villas, and hotels to the charms of nature. The town is divided 
by the Bray River, which forms the boundary-line between the 
counties of Dublin and Wicklow. The view from the station can 
be followed round the mountain range, fringing the curve of the 
bay, from Carrickgallogan, on the north (902 feet), to Bray Head, 
on the south, with the two Sugar-loaf Mountains in the centre. 



WICKLOW. 193 



At the station the tourist will procure a jaunting car, which he 
may engage either by time (for four persons, 2s. first hour, g&. 
every hour after ; for two persons, first hour is. 6d., every sub- 
sequent hour 6d. ; for the whole day, 1 2s.), or by distance (6d. 
per mile). He then drives to the Bray Bridge, from which a 
fine view is had of the " Valley of Diamonds," whence he turns 
westward towards the Dargle, a distance of about two and a half 
miles. As the car follows the course of the stream the valley 
narrows, until soon passing over the bridge, beneath which the 
sombre waters of the Dargle River flow to the point where they 
assume the name of Bray River, we reach a spot where a fine 
old tree casts its shadow over the road. The turn to the left 
is now taken ; it leads up a long steep carriage-way to the 
Dargle, variously translated as the " Dark Glen " and the "Glen 
of Oaks." At the gate the tourist dismounts (for he must tra- 
verse the Dargle on foot) and sends his car round to meet him 
at the other entrance, where he will come out. He can easily 
find his way through by following the path. Here, too, he must 
give the driver his card, and Jehu will procure orders for admis- 
sion to the Powerscourt demesne, through which we shall drive 
presently. As the lodge gate closes behind him, the tourist feels 
himself under the influence of the scene. In the gorge of the 
glen a dark flood is seen to dash over impeding rocks, the white 
foam contrasting fitfully with the murky body of the peat-tinged 
waters. The sun cannot penetrate the depths of the ravine, but 
its beams slant down the woody sides of the glen, and bring out 
the old oak trees in strong relief against the darker underwood. 
Pursuing the course of the glen along the broad walk, a path 
branches off, and descends to the river side. Mr. Inglis says 
that the whole scene may be characterized by the one word 
"romantic." "The union of rock, wood, and water, is ex- 
tremely happy ; and in the noon of a hot summer's day the cool- 
ness and sober light in the bottom of this sylvan dell, added to 
the truly picturesque combinations presented to the eye, and the 
pleasant murmur of the almost hidden stream, form altogether 
an enjoyment of no common order." Clambering up a narrow 
pathway in the dense underwood of the glen, we regain the broad 
road at the Moss House. Refreshments (brought by tourists 
themselves) are usually despatched here. The next point that 
strikes the eye as we proceed is a huge rock, projecting far from 
the glen's side, and overhanging the depths of the ravine, where 
the river purls 300 feet below. We next approach the View Cliff, 
from which the glen is seen opening into a valley ; while away in 
the distance, over river, field, and flood, rise the mountains. 
Embosomed in this scene, a glimpse of Powerscourt is caught, and 
below, where the river widens, beneath the shade of trees, is 



104 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

Tinnahinch, the beautiful country scat purchased by the Irish 
Parliament for the orator Henry Grattan. Pursuing his way, 
the tourist now passes out at the second gate, where his car waits 
to take him to Powerscourt Waterfall. There are two ways of 
reaching the fall — either direct by Enniskerry, or by turning to 
the left, and proceeding on the public road down the hill, past 
Tinnahinch House and Bridge, and so to the gate of Powers- 
court Deer Park. Orders for admission (except on Mondays and 
Tuesdays) to Powerscourt must be obtained beforehand from 
the Agency Office in Enniskerry. We have already informed 
the tourist how to procure them while he is seeing the Dargle. 

The Waterfall, particularly after rain, is a vision of beauty as 
it dashes from rock to rock, sometimes direct, sometimes slanting 
outwards, for a distance of 300 feet. At the bottom of the cliff 
is a dark abyss, into which the waters tumble amid foam and 
spray. The Ladies' Drive commences at the chief entrance to 
Powerscourt, takes the visitor by a zig-zag course up the deeply 
wooded eastern banks of the Waterfall Glen, and, after a long 
drive at a great elevation, opens on two fine artificial lakes, with 
fish passes, well stocked with trout. Powerscourt contains 
14,000 acres. A residence twice honoured by royal visits 
occupies the M Pawn Hill." We gwe a view of the fall. 

I laving viewed the waterfall, the tourist will take the road on the 
right, leading down the rocky valley to the picturesquely situated 
chapel of Kilmacanoge. Here the ascent of the Sugar-loaf may- 
be said to commence. A half hour's clambering will bring the 
explorer to the very peak, from which a bird's-eye view of the 
mole district is obtained, Seaward, the coast line ®f railway 
can be traced from Wicklow Plead to Kingstown and Dublin, 
while at the feet of the beholder are the depths of the umbrageous 
Glen of the Downs. More inland, the summits of a group of 
mountains are gildad by the summer sun: The dark shadows are 
the deep valleys and gorges, where the holy Saint Kevin fled from 
the "eyes of unholy blue." Having taken his bird's-eye view, 
the tourist descends and enters the Glen of the Downs, passing 
Glen Cottage. Leaving the cottage, over a flat velvet sward, 
beneath the octagon temple, the tourist proceeds through a dell 
very different from the Dargle, but still beautiful. It is a mile 
and a half in length, and about 150 feet in breadth. The sides, 
which rise frequently to the height of 300 feet, are covered with a 
thick copsewood and occasionally crowned with pine trees. As 
the end is approached, Delgany and the sea burst on the view. 
pretty little village, picturesquely situated amid the 
emerald-green hills which lie along the shore here. At Delgany 
there is a good hotel, where refreshments can be had before taking 
the train at Greystones station (two miles) for Bray. 




POWERSCOURT WATERFALL, CO. WICK LOW. 



From Greystones the train runs along the verge of the precipi- 
tous cliff which rises above the shore. If the traveller look 
through the left hand carriage window, the rocks seem to tremble 
preparatory to falling, as the rapid motion shakes the carriage ; 
while, peering from the opposite window into the seeming abyss 
beneath, a nervous person might start in terror at the sight of the 
craggy strand over which the train impends as it sweeps round a 
curve ; and his apprehension is not apt to be lessened when, a 
few moments after, he enters the first of the tunnels cut through 
the solid rock under Bray Head. This train returns to Dublin 
by the Harcourt Street route,, so that the tourist has his return 
journey pleasantly varied. Leaving Bray, instead of keeping the 
shore, as on the line by which we brought the tourist down from 
Dublin, the train proceeds a little inland towards Shankhill 
station. Here the Greater Sugar-loaf Mountain comes in sight. 
Proceeding on to Loughlinstown, we pass the shot-tower of the 
Ballycorus Lead Works, and crossing the bridge which spans 
Bride's Glen, arrive at the Carrickmines station. On the right 
are the ruins of Tully and Rathmichael churches and a portion 
of a round tower. On the left is the undulating country, gradu- 
ally blending with the slope of the Three Rock Mountain, 1, 763 
feet high. From Carrickmines to the prettily situated village of 
Dundrum the route lies on the plain at the foot of the Dublin 
Mountains. Thence we speed on to Militown, between which 
and Merrion is situated the village of Donnybrook, where until 
1855 was held in every August the famous " Donnybrook Fair," 
of " Sprig of Shillelah" notoriety. A few minutes more brings 
the tourist back to Dublin at the Harcourt Street station. 

Second Day. 

If the tourist can spare time for our second day's tour to Wick- 
low, he should postpone this return journey to Dublin, viA 
Dundrum, until he is about to take his final leave of Ireland. 
In this case he will put up at Bray for the night, and start early 
next morning for the Devil's Glen, Lough Bray, and the Seven - 
Churches. There is an hotel at Glendalough, where the tourist 
can have every comfort, and where we should advise him to stay 
for the night, giving him ample time the following day to see the 
Vale of Avoca, the " Meeting of the Waters," etc., returning by 
train to Dublin or Bray, vid Rathdrum and Wicklow. Thus he 
may see the whole of the Wicklow mountain scenery in three 
days. Should the tourist, however, not care to spend three days 
in the locality, he can follow the course of the two days' tour as 
far as Glendalough and the Seven Churches, returning thence 
the same evening to Bray or Dublin. 

Leaving Bray, the train sweeps along the curve of the bay 



kjG LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

until it readies the platform leading up to an elevation of fifty 
feet above the sea, at which level it skirts the rugged promon- 
tory of Bray Head, passing twice through short tunnels cut 
through the rock, and then winding along the sea-board to 
Greystones. The scenery is now unvaried until the tourist 
approaches Wicklow (fourteen and a half miles). Here, or at 
the Rathnew station, the tourist will take a car to the Devil's 
Glen, three and a half miles distant. There are two hotels at 
Wicklow — the Marine and the Bridge Hotel — but we should 
prefer the Xe wrath Hotel at Rathnew. Wicklow is wretchedly 
built, and its streets are narrow. At the approach to the town 
are the ruins of a Franciscan abbey, founded in the reign of 
Henry III., and at the east of the town is the racecourse, the 
only two things to notice. 

The Devil's Glen is one mile and a half in length, and is con- 
sidered to resemble the Dargle. It is, however, altogether on a 
grander scale, being broader, while its sides are considerably 
higher towards the lower end. Holt, the famous rebel of '98, 
made this place his head-quarters both before and after the 
rising, and the peasantry of the district have innumerable stories 
of the "gmeral's" doings. Cars are not allowed through the 
glen, so that the tourist must either, after traversing the glen, 
retrace his steps to the lodge, or send the car round to the cross 

) the high ground to the waterfall. Havin g walked through 
the glen and seen the fall, the tourist can reach the point above 
mentioned by taking a path over a few fields. A short distance 
from this point the Vartry Reservoir, which covers an area of 
400 acres, may be seen. From this the route lies to the right, 
towards the village of Roundwood. Passing the village, and still 
keeping in the same direction, after a mile's drive the road to the 
left brings the tourist to Luggala Lodge, the property of Lord 
Powerscourt. Both Lough Tay and Lough Dan are situated in 
the glen, which extends from Luggala to the Seven Churches. 
The former lough lies entirely within the demesne of Luggala, 
but a pass to admit a party can be readily obtained at his lord- 
ship's agency office in Enniskerry. The lough, which has an 
area < f 1 10 acres, is gloomily romantic. Lying in a deep elliptical 
dell, with the river Annamoe pouring into it over a rocky preci- 
pice ju I close to the lodge, its waters are shadowed on one side 
by the almost perpendicular cliffs dividing it from the military 
road, and on the other by the thickly wooded declivities forming 
mmencement of the Djouce Mountain. Walking along 
tter 'he eastern) shore, the tourist reaches the meandering 
stream which connects the two loughs. Here the traveller 

ride whether he will follow the course of the river bank 
to Lough Don, walk along its western shore, and then onto 




GLENDALOUGH, CO. WICKLOW. 



WICKLOW. 197 



Roundwood (about three miles), or retrace his steps to the car, 
after seeing Lough Tay. If he adopt the former alternative, he 
will find the valley intervening between the two loughs one ot 
great beauty — its softness and verdure contrasting well with 
the sterile mountain tops. Dan is the more extensive lough, 
but in its surroundings inferior to Luggala. From this lough 
flows the river which the tourist often crosses and recrosses as he 
goes by Annamoe and Laragh, till, at the "Meeting of the 
Waters, " he finds it mingling with Avonbeg, or the Avonmore, 
and rolling down the vale as the Avoca River. 

Resuming our road at Roundwood, a drive of three miles 
brings us to Annamoe, in the neighbourhood of which Lawrence 
Sterne, the author of Tristram Shandy nearly lost his life in 
a milirace. Not far from this village are the ruins of Castle 
Kevin, the former stronghold of the O'Tooles. It was one ot 
this royal line who granted the ground to St. Kevin on which 
the Seven Churches have been built, the circumstances of which 
gift are related in the song — 

" As St. Kevin was a travelling in a place, called Glendalough 
He chanced to meet with King O'Toole, and asked him for a shough," etc. 

Another drive of three miles along Glenavon, between Car- 
ricknashanough (1,313 feet) and Trooperstown (1,408 feet) moun- 
tains, and we reach the village of Laragh, charmingly placed at 
the junction of the vales of Laragh, Glendalough, and Clara. 
Passing through the village, the road to Glendalough (Hotel 
" Royal ") is but a mile long. 

Glendalough— the " Glen of the Two Loughs " — is three miles 
long, and lies between the Derrybawn and Lugduff mountains 
on the south, and Brockagh, Glendassan, and Comaderry on the 
north. The lower lough is very small, but the other, the centre 
of attraction, is a mile in length, and a little over a quarter of a 
mile in breadth. The mountains rise so abruptly from its shores 
that the waters are seldom brightened with the sun's rays, and 
have, in consequence, a gloomy, though beautiful appearance. 
This is quite sufficient to account for the absence of larks, so 
frequently enforced on tourists' attention by Moore's hackneyed 
couplet. A few minutes' walk from the hotel brings the visitor 
to the Round Tower, the Cathedral, a Cyclopean doorway, and 
St. Kevin's kitchen. We give a coloured view. 

The round tower is no feet high, and fifty-one feet in cir- 
cumference, and is a very good specimen of those structures 
about the origin of which antiquaries are yet in doubt — some 
claiming for them an existence long anterior to Christianity ; 
some referring them to a comparatively modern date, in conse- 
quence of their being found in the vicinity of Christian churches. 



The hypothesis which assigns their construction to the fire- 
worshipping pagans of old, accounts for churches being in the 
vicinity of these towers on the theory that the early Christianity 
of Ireland spread by amalgamating with and absorbing heathenism, 
rather than by placing itself in antagonism with the older form 
of worship. 

Another argument in favour of this explanation is the fact of 
" seven churches" being found in so many places all over the 
island. The ancient Irish attached a mysterious meaning to the 
number seven ; hence their tendency to erect seven churches in 
whatever neighbourhood a more holy anchorite than usual dwelt. 
Very often, we believe, the seven churches were spoken of when 
it would have been difficult to tell off the full complement. 

The Oratory, or St. Kevin's Kitchen, as it is called, through 
the belfry having been mistaken by the imaginative peasantry 
for a chimney, is the most perfect of the ruins. It is twenty-two 
feet by fifteen, roofed with slabs of stone. As the tourist will 
perceive from this, the dimensions of the ruins are rather pigmy. 

Having examined those antiquities which lie about the lower 
lake, the tourist can now pass on to the larger, and of course, 
following the example of Sir Walter Scott and other celebrities, 
ascend to " St. Kevin's Bed." This is merely a rude hole in the 
cliff, hanging over the sombre waters at the south side of the 
lake. The well-known legend tells how the saint, who" had 
fled hither from the dangerous attractions of the lovely Kathleen, 
started from a dream, one morning, in which the fair one seemed 
to stand between him and the gate of heaven. Still doubtful as 
to the reality of the dream, he opened his eyes, and, beholding 
Kathleen hanging over him, dashed her over the ledge ere he 
thought what he was doing. The ancient "city" of Glenda- 
lough is supposed to have stood on the banks of the little river 
which flows into the lough, a quarter of a mile west of Ivy 
Church. This reputed city was reduced to a heap of ashes no 
less than four times in the eleventh century, but seems to have 
sprung up again and again, until its last destruction, in 1398, by 
the English forces. The mountains encircling the loughs are 
granitic, with numerous veins of quartz and ores of lead, which 
a mining company is at present working. 

Having "done" Glendalough, the tourist will take the route 
to Rathdrum, vid Glenmalure. Leaving the Glen, the road 
leads over the Lugduff mountain, affording splendid prospects 
both on the ascent and the descent afterwards to Drumgoff (four 
miles). From here the tourist can make the ascent of Lugna- 
quilla, the second highest mountain in Ireland (3,039 feet). 
Near Drumgoff is the Ess Waterfall, which is reached by follow- 
ing the banks of the Avonbeg River ; but after any length of 



W1CKL0W, 199 



dry weather it is not worth visiting. From DrumgofT we follow 
the banks downward through the weird beauty of Glenmalure, 
which, as we approach Rathdrum (a distance of six miles), 
becomes wider and its sides densely wooded. From Rathdrum, 
once a place of importance, but now offering no attraction to the 
tourist save its agreeable situation, the train can be taken to 
Wooden Bridge ; but the drive will be more enjoyable, as the 
vale increases the number of its charming prospects each mile of 
the way. Our road lies over the hill a mile to the right of the 
Avondale and Kingstown demesnes. Winding round the crest 
of this height, a magnificent view unfolds itself of Castle Howard 
and the first " Meeting of the Waters." The castle owes more 
to its lovely situation on a wooded eminence than to any intrinsic 
beauty of structure ; but it serves to complete the enchanting 
picture. The point of union where the Avonmore and Avonbeg 
rivers commingle their waters is a little below Lion Bridge, by 
which the Castle Howard demesne is approached. Here is 
pointed out the spot where Moore is supposed to have sat when 
he composed the touching lyric which has immortalized 

"The vale in whose bosom the bright waters meet." 

The road now runs parallel with the banks of the united 
streams, between the richly-wooded sides, which rise, a quarter 
of a mile apart, to the height of from 400 to 500 feet. 

The vale, which is about eight miles long, will not fail to leave 
a lasting impression on the tourist's mind. About a mile above 
Wooden Bridge (Wooden Bridge Hotel) are copper and sulphur 
mines. The hotel is delightfully placed, so as to command views 
of the vale and the second " Meeting of the Waters," which 
dispute the palm of poetic celebration with the Castle Howard 
"meeting." 

But this spot has another beauty, which renders it independent 
of the poet, and that is, the union of the different glens, which 
maybe seen from a rising ground adjacent to the hotel. "From 
the east and the west, the north and the south, they come like 
rivers into the sea." From Wooden Bridge, the tourist can 
return by train to Dublin, via Wicklovv and Bray. 



NORTH WALES. 



SECTION XIII. 

FROM DUBLIN OR KINGSTOWN TO HOLYHEAD. 

The Voyage. 

T^l I E tourist having now completed our circular tour through 
X Ireland, will make arrangements for proceeding to Holy- 
head, en route for England, Wales, Scotland, and the Continent. 
If he lias made Dublin his head-quarters during the Wicklow 
excursions, he has only to take his luggage to Westland Row, 
from which station, trains, in connection with the mail steamers 
from Kingstown, leave every morning at 6. 15, and every evening 
at 6.45, carrying passengers direct to Carlisle Pier, alongside which 
the steamers await the arrival of the train from Dublin. The mail 
boats on this line are perhaps the finest, for their tonnage, in the 
world. The quartette of steamers, owned by the City of Dublin 
Steam-packet Company, are named respectively the "Leinster," 
"Minister,'' "Ulster," and " Connaught," Each vessel mea- 
sures about 350 feet in length, has engines of 700 horse power, 
and i> about 2,000 tons burden. Their average rate of sailing is 
seventeen miles an hour, but they can do twenty-two, if hard 
!. lor the carriage of the mails the company have a 
subsidy of /S5,ooo from Government, reducible by a refund 
when the passenger returns exceed a given sum. On the grant 
of the subsidy a condition was imposed that the company should 
pay a (me of 34s. per minute whenever the steamers were be- 
hind tli..- time specified for the arrival of the mails. Owing, 



London tJTorth. ITtjurn £m2~<p £>' lovritti licturaifu* 9mde-too 




London,: Puilisked by Norton. & SAom: 7. Sarriok S* Covait, ffarden.. WC 






_. __________ 




, ■'■:i;i" 1 ' ''' I' iHrifaWfflBMBffJBI 



202 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

however, to the completeness of the arrangements, and the 
extraordinary speed and power of the packets, the penalty has 
not been imposed for years. The passage (something over sixty 
miles in length) is usually run in three hours and three-quarters, 
and whether the tourist leaves by the morning or evening boat, he 
is afforded a delightful general view of Kingstown and the coast 
scenery, over which we have carried him during the days previous 
to his departure. In the one case the rising, and in the other 
the setting, sun lights up the whole southern hill reaching from 
Dalkey to Booterstown, glittering on the windows of the long 
rows of suburban mansions, and tipping the masts in the harbour 
with fire. This effect is not lost as the tourist steams on the 
open sea. Southward (if it be morning), over the rocky shores 
of Dalkey and the bold outlines of the Killiney Hills and Bray 
Head, the same glamour is cast, burnishing the white sand, the 
cliffs, and the bare mountain heads ; while northward the dis- 
tricts of Dollymount and Clontarf have the appearance of a town 
in conflagration. If the evening boat be the one selected, the 
sun plays equally magical pranks ; but in this case the rays, 
coming from behind Dublin, gild only the prominent points, 
leaving the eastern bases of the hills in a shade, which by 
contrast throws out the favoured portions into more brilliant 
prominence. 

The London and North-Western Railway Company run a 
much cheaper line of packets between North Wall, Dublin, and 
Holyhead twice daily (Sundays excepted), which carry passengers, 
goods, parcels, and live stock. These strongly-built and fast 
steamers accomplish the sea passage in about five hours, and start 
from North Wall, Dublin, at 7.30 p.m. or 8 p.m. Greenwich 
time and II a.m., arriving respectively at the goods station, 
Holyhead, at about 2 a.m. and 5.30 p.m. 

As we approach the Welsh coast the bold outlines of Holy- 
head are seen ; and drawing nearer, the caverns with which the 
Head is pierced can be descried. Entering the harbour the 
Skerries Islands are on the left, and on the right the South 
Stack Lighthouse. This stands on the crest of an insulated 
rock, joined to Holy Island by a suspension bridge. The light- 
house has been the means of preserving many lives and much 
property. It was built by the corporation of Trinity House, 
and a farthing per ton is levied on all ships passing. The 
Breakwater Lighthouse crowns the end of that splendid structure, 
round which the steamer steers ere she runs alongside the pier, 
to which the train runs down. Holyhead Harbour has been 
constructed at a cost of ,£1,303,663, and covers an area of 300 
acres. 



Holyhead 

[Hotel : " London and North-Western Railway"], 
so called from a monastery founded by St. Gybi in the sixth 
century, is the chief packet station for Ireland. It stands on 
Holy Island, on a bay between it and the west side of Anglesea, 
in North Wales. The rail crosses the narrow strait or track 
dividing the island and mainland, on an embankment, close to 
that which supports Telford's coach-road, constructed in 1815. 
On the west side of Holyhead Hill are the North and South 
Stack Rocks, hollowed into caves, and swarming with wild 
birds. The Parliament Cave between the North and South Stack 
is 70 feet high. The descent to the South Stack Lighthouse is 
down a cliff by the Stairs, 380 steps altogether. The rock is 
frequently variegated, and greasy to the touch, like soapstone. 
An obelisk on the hill south of the harbour commemorates the 
late Captain Skinner, of the Post Office service, who lost his life 
by being washed overboard, in 1833. 

There are three regular steamboat services from Holyhead : 
{a.) the Holyhead and Kingstown mail service ; (b.) the Holy- 
head and Dublin (North Wall) service ; (c. ) the Holyhead and 
Greenore service. The two latter are worked solely by the 
London and North- Western Railway Company. The mail 
packets from Kingstown bring over, in addition to the Irish 
letters, the mail bags which are landed at Queenstown and 
Londonderry from America. 



SECTION XIV. 

HOLYHEAD TO CHESTER, via BANGOR, LLANDUDNO, 
BETTWS-Y-COED, RHYL, DENBIGH, AND HOLYWELL. 

THE rail, on its way to Bangor, passes near the south coast of 
Anglesea, where the tourist may inspect the curious little 
churches of Llangwffen and Llanddwyn, each on an island, also 
Aberffraw, the decayed capital of the early North Wales princes, 
and Bodorgan, the seat of the Meyricks. In the neighbourhood 
of Bodorgan station is a splendid lake, two miles in circum- 
ference, called Llyn Coron, much frequented by anglers. 

From Holyhead to the Menai Staitsis about twenty-two miles. 
Near to Stephenson's grand engineering triumph over this arm 
of the sea stands Telford's 



204 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 



Menai Suspension Bridge. 

[Hotels : Anglesea end, " Anglesea Arms," on the opposite side, 
"Victoria."] 

This celebrated bridge was opened on the 30th January, 1 826. 
From the surface of the water, at the highest tides, to the road- 
way of the bridge, is 100 feet. The distance between the points 
of suspension is 560 feet, and the extreme length of the chains 
1,715 feet. The amount of compensation awarded to the owners 
of the ferry by which communication was previously kept up was 
,£26,577, the actual cost of building £120, 000, so that we may 
estimate the outlay on the erection of this wonderful structure 
at about ,£146,577 ! To fully appreciate its dimensions a boat 
should be taken, so as to enable the tourist to look up from 
beneath. By so doing, he will also have an opportunity of 
hearing the wonderful echo, which illustrates some peculiar 
and interesting principles of acoustics. But this engineering 
achievement is entirely eclipsed by the still more stupendous 
work to which we shall now direct the tourist's attention, the 

Britannia Tubular Bridge. 

The necessity of carrying the railway across the Menai Straits, 
and the palpable difficulties besetting such an undertaking, had 
aroused the ingenuity of many eminent men, but all the plans 
suggested were found wanting in some requisites until the 
late Robert Stephenson conceived the idea of conveying "the 
trains across the straits through long hollow tubes." The 
Britannia Bridge is so called from the rock of that name in the 
middle of the strait. The entire length of each line of tube is 
1,513 feet. This total is made up of four pairs of tubes — i. e. 
two stretching from the Caernarvon embankment to the pier at 
high-water mark, and two from this point to Britannia Tower, 
on the rock already mentioned ; then two from Britannia 
Tower to a pier at high-water mark on the Anglesea shore, and 
two thence to the embankment on the same shore. The span 
from the high- water mark piers to Britannia Tower is 472 feet 
each way ; the lesser span from the high-water mark piers to 
the embankment is 274 feet; making, with the length within the 
abutment, in all 1,513 feet. The heat during the summer months 
increases the length one foot! To overcome the difficulty of the 
contraction and expansion from atmospheric changes, the ends 
of the tubes are so fixed that, resting on movable rollers, they 
do not leave a gap in the line of rail when contracted by the 
winter cold. Those tubes are 104 feet above the water, and 
together weigh 1 1,400 tons; while the stonework of the bridge 
contains nearly a million and a half of cubic feet. 



BANGOR— BE A UMARIS. 205 

Passing through this aerial tunnel, and the Menai Bridge 
station, and then through Belmont tunnel, the tourist arrives at 



[Hotels : " George," " Penrhyn Arms," " Castle," " Railway Hotel," 
" British," and " Belle Vue."] 

Bangor is situated at the base of a lofty range of cliffs, consists, 
like many other small towns, of one long street, and has 
little to attract in the way of outward appearance. Even the 
cathedral, though dating from the sixth century, is without any 
special attraction. The town has a free museum, library, and 
reading room. The neighbourhood, however, in addition to 
the bridges already noticed, is rich in scenery, and the city con- 
veniently situated for visiting Penrhyn and Beaumaris castles, 
Menai Straits, and Anglesea ("the Island of the Angles," — i. e. 
one of the three German tribes by whom England was overrun, 
after the departure of the Romans). Penrhyn Castle is situated 
about a mile east of Bangor, on the site of the ancient palace of 
Mochwynog, Prince of Wales (a.d. 720). It is built of grey 
Mona marble, and is a most extensive building, commanding 
splendid views of Beaumaris, Bangor, and Puffin Island on the 
one side, and of the Snowdon range of mountains on the other. 

Visitors are admitted to the castle by tickets (to be purchased 
at the Penryhn Arms, Castle, and George Hotels) every Tuesday 
and Friday. The slate quarries, five miles distant, are also 
worthy of a visit. 

Beaumaris 

[Hotels : " Bulkeley Arms," and ?< Liverpool Arms "] 
is about four miles by ferry,, and seven miles by road, from 
Bangor, at the entrance of the straits. The castle was erected 
in 1295 by Edward I., but does not seem to have played so 
important a part in history as one might have expected. The 
outer ballium has ten Moorish towers, which give it quite a 
foreign aspect. "The walls of the chapel, situated at the 
east end of the building, are embellished with twenty-one 
elegantly canopied niches, between which are lancet windows of 
great beauty, and behind them are recesses gained in the thick- 
ness of the wall." A stone staircase, perforating the walls, 
brings you to the top of the ruins, from which the whole sur- 
rounding district can be seen at a glance. In Beaumaris church 
is a fine monument by Westmacott. Farther north, on the 
shore, is Baron Hill, where is to be seen the stone coffin of 
Princess Joan, King John's daughter. Beyond this is Penmon 
Priory, the Mona (Mon = Anglesea) Marble Quarries, and Priest- 
holme, or Puffin Island. 



If the tourist resume his journey at Bangor, en route for 
Chester, he will enter the tunnel through the Bangor Mountain, 
and, emerging thence, will cross the two viaducts spanning the 
Ogwen River and Valley respectively, both of which command 
fine views, and reach Aber, where Llewellyn made his last stand 
against Edward I. A beautiful glen, three miles long, leads to 
the Rhaiadr Mawr Cataract. Keeping along the shore, he will 
now have on his left Puffin Island, so called from the number of 
those birds that resort there. On his right will be Meini Herion, 
one of the most remarkable of the Snowdon range, after which 
Penmaen Mawr station and tunnel are reached. Leaving these 
behind, the sea comes in view again, but is lost to sight once 
more as the train speeds through a deep cutting, and enters 
another tunnel before stopping at 

Conway. 

[Hotels : " Castle," u Erskine Arms," and "Harp."] 

This ancient and most picturesque town is situated on the 
sloping side of the vale through which the river of the same name 
flows. The town and castle are entirely surrounded by walls, 
which, being of a rude triangular form, are not unlike the out- 
line of a Welsh harp. "I think no description," says Miss 
Costello, "however enthusiastic, can do justice to one of the 
most romantic and interesting spots that exists perhaps in Europe. " 
Both town and castle were founded in 1284, by Edward I., to 
overawe the Welsh, and the walls, which are defended by eight 
towers, are very massive. There are many venerable and interest- 
ing houses in the town, but the castle throws everything else in 
the shade. Two sides are bounded by the river and a creek, the 
other two confront the town. Through one of the entrances of 
the fortress runs a tubular bridge, built on the same principle, 
but anterior to the Britannia Bridge at Menai, 



A pleasant excursion can be made from Llandudno Junction 
by rail to 

Llandudno 

[Hotels : " Adelphi," " Imperial," " Queen's," and " St. George's"], 
a fashionable bathing-place, near to which are copper mines 
(where an enormous excavated chamber was discovered in 1849, 
showing that the mines had been worked 1,800 years ago by the 
Romans, whose benches and hammers were found there) ; and 
thence to the Great Ormes Head, remarkable for its Druidical 



LLANR WST—BE TTWS- Y- COED. 207 



LLANDUDNO JUNCTION TO BETTWS-Y-COED. 

Another excursion may be made by rail from Llandudno 
Junction to Bettws-y-Coed, into the heart of Welsh scenery. 

Llanrwst 

is a small town on the route, pleasantly situated on the western 
bank of the Conway. The bridge is the principal object of 
interest ; it was constructed after the designs by Inigo Jones, who 
is said to have been a native of the place. The scenery around is 
enchanting. 

Bettws-y-Coed 

[Hotels : "Royal Oak/' "Waterloo," " Gwydyn," and " Glan Aber "], 
or the " Chapel" or the ''Station in the Wood," is a hamlet 
forming a romantic sylvan retreat, delightfully situated at the 
junction of the counties of Denbigh and Caernarvon, and a favourite 
haunt of anglers and artists. From the old church Cox took 
many of his most exquisite pictures. The view presents features 
of quiet loveliness and grandeur, in which river, cataract, wood- 
land, and mountain, are alternately commingled. Close to this 
the rivers Conway and Llugwy meet. The latter is here crossed by 
Pont-y-Pair, an old stone bridge erected in the fifteenth century. 
The Falls of the Conway are about three miles from Bettws-y- 
Coed. The road leads across the Waterloo Bridge, a handsome 
iron structure, cast in the year the Battle of Waterloo was 
fought. The view up this valley is one of the sweetest pictures 
on which the eye can rest. The Swallow Falls are about two 
miles from the town, a beautiful cataract. The water of the 
Llugwy is precipitated down a chasm, which in its widest parts 
measures sixty feet across. It does not form a single sheet from 
top to bottom, but is broken into three large falls, partly 
precipitous and partly shelving, and these again are sub-divided 
and broken by jutting crags, which disperse and dash about the 
waters in all directions, and then the stream rushes on impetu- 
ously to the romantic bridge of Pont-y-Pair. The extension of 
the railway from Bettws-y-Coed to the slate districts of Ffestiniog 
is now in progress. The new line passes through the valley of 
the Lledwr, by Dolwyddelan castle, said to have been the birth- 
place of Llewylyn the Great, 

Again resuming our route to Chester, at Llandudno Junction 
station, we pass Colwyn station, enter another tunnel, and once 
more gain the coast, which we keep in view until we reach 



2o8 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 
Abergele and Pensarn 

[Hotels : Abergele, " Bee," and Pensarn, " Cambrian "], 
pleasantly situated sea bathing places. Gwrych Castle is a 
splendid pile of buildings of modern date, situated in very ex- 
tensive grounds. On the lodge gates are four tablets commemo- 
rating battles fought in the pass prior to the Norman conquest, 
and down to the reign of Richard II. Near by are the remains of 
British and Roman camps, and the Cefn-yr-Ogof Cave, in which 
the unhappy Richard II. hid from Bolingbroke. Leaving Aber- 
gele behind, we are now hurried to 

Rhyl 

[Hotels : "Belvoir," " Royal," "Dudley Arms," "Queen's," and 
'' Mostyn Arms"], 

which takes rank as the first bathing-place in Wales, though a 
recent town, dating only from 1820. It is a centre for many 
excellent excursions. It is situated at the entrance to the 
celebrated Yale of Clwyd, which extends twenty miles in length, 
flanked on both sides with elevated hills, beyond which Snowdon 
can be seen. 



BHYL TO CORWEN. 

Rhuddlan. 

Hotels : " New Inn," ''Marsh Inn," " Black Boy," and " King's Head."] 
Diverging from the route to Chester, and going by rail up 
the Vale of Clwyd, the tourist passes the little station of Foryd, 
and quickly reaches the ancient town of Rhuddlan, situated 
on the eastern bank of the Clwyd. Below it is Rhuddlan Castle, 
the ruins of which have a noble and imposing appearance from 
every point of view. It is built of grey stone, is nearly square, 
and has six towers, three of them tolerably entire. It has a double 
ditch on the north side, and a strong wall and fosse all round. 
It was built by Llewellyn in 1015, and dismantled in 1646. It 
was rebuilt or fortified by Henry II. It was here that Edward I. 
gave the Welsh people their charter of freedom. Queen Eleanor, 
in 1283, was delivered here of a princess. Northumberland 
seized the castle in 1399 previous to the deposition of Richard II., 
who was brought here on his way to Flint Castle. The church 
contains the tombs of Dean Shipley and the Conways. Below 
the village is the " Marsh of Rhuddlan," where in 795 the Welsh 
fought a bloody battle under their leader Caradoc, and were 
defeated and lost their general by the Saxon forces under OfTa, 
the King of Mercia. About two miles from the station, at the 




iiKIDGE, BETTWi 



ST. ASAPH, ETC.—CORWEN. 209 

village of Dyserth, near the foot of the Cym Mountains, is a 
beautiful waterfall, situated amongst enchanting scenery. The 
city of 

St. Asaph 

[Hotels : " Mostyn Arms," " Kimmel Arms," and " Plough "] 
stands on an eminence between the rivers Clwyd and Elwy. 
The principal attraction of this charmingly-situated city is the 
cathedral, which was first built of wood by St. Asaph in 596 and 
rebuilt in 1 770 ; it has recently been completely renovated, under the 
direction of Sir Gilbert Scott, R.A. The plan is cruciform, with 
a square embattled tower rising from the intersection. It con- 
tains a painted tomb in memory of Bishop Barrow, who died in 
1680, and a mural tablet, in memory of Felicia Hernans, who 
resided at Bronwylfa, near to St. Asaph, for a great part of her 
life. Passing Trefnant station the tourist reaches 

Denbigh 

[Hotels : " Crown " and " Bull "], 
which occupies an imposing situation on the side of a rocky 
eminence, the top of which is crowned with thejnins of a castle 
built in the reign of Edward I. It was blown up with gun- 
powder after the restoration of Charles II. The prospects through 
the broken arches and decaying walls are of a magnificent 
character. The town was originally enclosed with walls and 
fortified with one square and three round towers. Passing 
Llanrhaidr and Rhewl stations, eight miles of travelling conduct 
us to 

Ruthin 

[Hotels : " Castle Arms," " Wynnstay Arms," and " Cross Keys "], 
a town standing on the side of a hill. It has the remains of 
a castle, built in the thirteenth century. A new structure has 
been erected within the boundaries of the ruins, Passing three 
other stations, the tourist is conducted to 

Corwen 

[Hotel : " Owen Glyndwr Arms "], 

a small market town at the foot of the Berwyn Mountains, 
situated on the River Dee. The natural features of the spot are 
associated with the name of Owen Glyndwr. There is Glyndvvr's 
Sword and Glyndwr's Seat, a heap of stones. On the summit 
of a hill, on the opposite side of the river, a circle of loose 
stones marks the spot where Owen Gwynedd was posted to repel 
the invasion of Henry II. , and where Owen Glyndwr retreated 
when threatened by Henry IV. A splendid view may be ob- 
tained from this and the neighbouring heights. 



H 



2io LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

Resuming the journey to Chester from Rhyl, Mostyn, cele- 
brated for its collieries is passed, and the traveller arrives at 

Holywell Station. 

[Hotels : " King's Head" and " Harp Inn."l 
About a mile from this, on the side of a hill, is St. Winifred's 
Well, which gives its name to the town. The well, situated 
close to the church, throws up thirty tons of water per minute. 
It is highly spoken of for bathing purposes. Passing Bagillt, we 
come to Flint. To the left of the station can be seen, rising from 
a rocky promontory on the shore, the ruins of Flint Castle, the 
scene of poor Richard II. 's humiliation and betrayal. No other 
place of interest is now met with till, leaving Wales behind, and 
passing the Saltney Junction, we enter the cutting through Brewer's 
Hall Hill, from which Cromwell bombarded Chester, cross the 
Dee, over the largest cast-iron girder bridge in the kingdom, and 
halt at the Chester station, the longest in the kingdom. The 
facade towards the city is 1,050 feet in length, built in the Italian 
style. Within are separate platforms for the London and North- 
western, the Great Western, and the Birkenhead Railway 
Companies. 

Chester. 

[Hotels : "Grosvenor," "Queen's," "Blossoms," and "Green Dragon."] 
We cannot attempt to give an adequate description of this grand 
old city. It is essentially a Roman city, the ' ' walls gray with 
the memories of two thousand years, " being on the identical lines 
drawn by the Imperial generals. The usual Roman plan, too, 
of four great streets (cut down several feet into the solid rock), 
running from a common centre, north, south, east, and west, and 
terminating at the gates facing the cardinal points, is quite suffi- 
cient to prove its origin, apart from its Latin name (it was the 
Castra of the 20th Legion). Some form of town, however, 
existed here before the Roman invasion, but the history of the place 
previous to that date is lost in fable. The Roman Avails, varying 
from twelve to forty feet high, were restored by Alfred the Great's 
daughter Ethelfleda, 907, and from that date to the mock Fenian 
raid in 1867 Chester has been associated with almost every poli- 
tical movement in the kingdom. It was particularly prominent 
in the great Civil War, being the first city that declared for 
Charles, and the last to succumb to the Parliamentary forces. A 
mere enumeration of the Roman antiquities would fill a chapter. 
We must therefore leave the tourist to prosecute his archaeological 
inquiries by means of some of the local guides, and content our- 
el ves with pointing out the principal objects of interest observa- 
ble from the walls, round which he may walk in three-quarters 



of an hour. The detour may be commenced at East Gate, which 
is in the vicinity of the Grosvenor and Blossoms Hotels. Pro- 
ceeding northward we soon reach the Cathedral, said to occupy 
the site of a Roman temple to i\pollo. Different religious edifices 
seem to have stood here at different times, down to 1093, when 
Hugh Lupus, William the Conqueror's nephew, founded the 
present noble structure, into which he retired in repentance at 
the end of his days. On the dissolution of the monasteries by 
Henry VIII., it was converted into the Cathedral Church of 
Chester. The greater part of the venerable building, as it now 
stands, is in the Late Decorated Gothic style of the fourteenth 
century ; but there are many traces of Norman and perhaps 
Saxon architecture. 

Chester Cathedral is almost entirely built of the red sandstone, 
which is so plentiful in this district, and its principal portions 
seem to have been erected during the fourteenth, fifteenth, and 
sixteenth centuries. The blending of the different styles fashion- 
able during those different periods gives a pleasing variety to the 
massive pile. The west front, however, is decidedly the best, 
though in a partially unfinished state. The foundation of two 
towers was laid in 1508, which would undoubtedly have increased 
the imposing effect of this fine front. The entrance is formed of 
a Tudor arch, under a square head, with elegant spandrills, 
and a hollow moulding at the top, occupied by a row of angels. 
Over this entrance is the great western window of the nave, with 
eight lights and elaborate tracery — all flanked by octagonal 
turrets with embattled parapets. The south front has a deep 
porch, with richly-panelled spandrils, and an entrance under 
a Tudor arch of much the same design as that in the west front. 
The south side of the nave is not striking, but the south side of 
the transept is singular, if not handsome, being totally unlike 
the north wing in -length and breadth, and has aisles on both 
sides, like the nave and choir. The choir is of considerable 
beauty, and the Gothic work at the sides has a most pleasing 
effect. The Lady Chapel and the Chapter-house, to the south of 
the choir, contain many examples of Early English architecture. 
The square central tower, however, is decidedly the finest 
external feature of this venerable structure. It rises to the 
height of 127 feet from the roof of the chancel, has two pointed 
windows in each face, and also an octagonal turret at each angle. 
The interior of the cathedral falls very far short of what is 
naturally expected from its massive external appearance. In- 
stead of the usual vaulted roof, there is but a flat wooden ceiling, 
which makes its elevation seem much lower than it really is. 
This architectural defect is partially compensated for by the 
beauty of the cloisters, the antiquity of some of the monuments, 



212 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

the elegant taste of others, and the elaborately-sculptured Gothic 
screen of stone, separating the nave from the choir, which has 
some rich and beautiful tabernacle work. The stalls have fine 
canopies, pinnacles, and pendants. Here also is the bishop's 
throne, which is chiefly formed by the shrine of St. Werburgh, 
of which miraculous legends are told. The choir is paved with 
black and white marble. It will be seen, therefore, that it is 
by far the richest portion of the interior, and will merit all the 
attention the tourist has time to bestow upon it. 

As we walk on from the cathedral we see, to the right, on the 
canal bank, the lofty tower of Messrs. Walker and Parker's Shot 
manufactory. In front is the Phoenix Tower, at the angle of 
the walls where they turn westward towards the North Gate. 
On this tower Charles I. stood during the battle of Rowton 
Moor and witnessed the defeat of his Cheshire army. Beneath 
the walls, at this point, runs the Shropshire Union canal, 
sunk in the solid rock. Moving on in the direction of the North 
Gate, the original Roman walls can be seen, terminating in a 
cornice six feet below the parapet. 

We now arrive at the North Gate, from the summit of which 
the view is most extensive, including the Welsh mountains, the 
railway station, and the churches of Waverton and Christleton 
in the distance. Close outside the gate is the Blue-coat Hospital, 
founded in early times, destroyed during the Civil Wars, and 
rebuilt in 1700. It is now under the guardianship of the corpo- 
ration, who are bound to board, clothe, and educate thirty boys 
between the ages of twelve and fourteen. There are also alms- 
lit mses for the accommodation of thirteen paupers. Northgate 
Street, which runs from here to the Cross, is one of the Roman 
May-, and may be reached by a flight of steps at the gate. 
Moving onward, we now reach a square building on the right- 
hand side of the wall. The summit commands a view of the 
river to the sea, embracing Flint Castle, the Jubilee Column, 
and the Lighthouse on Ayr Point, with the Training College 
near on the right. Proceeding on our circuit we approach an- 
other tower, formerly known as the Goblin's Tower, but now 
called "Pemberton's Parlour." On the front is a mutilated in* 
scription of the "glorious reign of Anne," to the effect that some 
repairs had been made during the mayoralty of the Earl of Derby, 
in 1702. Inside the wall at this point is Borrowfieldy the exer« 
v ise ground of the Roman Legion. 

We now approach the Water Tower. The river at present is 
some distance from the walls, but it appears that formerly ships 
were able to sail up to the very tower. It was at this portion of 
the fortification that Cromwell directed his fire when bombard- 
ing the city in 1645. The tower is now fitted up as a museum, 



: 




THE SWALLOW FALLS, NEAR BETTWS-Y-COED. 



and contains some fine relics. This tower also contains a 
camera, and on the summit a telescope has been fixed, through 
which may be seen the Great Ormes Head, the Wrekin in 
Shropshire, and the Welsh mountains. Close under the walls 
is the railway viaduct of forty-seven arches, and the splendid 
iron bridge across the Dee. The handsome brick building to 
the left, as we walk towards the Water Gate, is the Infir- 
mary, which can accommodate ioo patients. Adjacent is the 
City Gaol and House of Correction, with its fine Doric en- 
trance, over which criminals used to be executed before the new 
regulation came into force. Beyond these buildings is the Linen 
Hall Cheese Market, passing which we arrive at the Water 
Gate. From this gate we have a truly charming prospect. At 
our feet is the famous Rhoodee race-course. To the right is the 
House of Industry and the Viaduct. Beyond the race-course 
and the river are the splendid villas of Curzon Park, while a 
little to the left we catch glimpses of the lodge of Eaton Park 
and the superb arch of Grosvenor Bridge. Towards this structure 
we now direct our steps. It spans the river with one arch of 
200 feet (the largest stone arch in the world), is forty feet high, 
and forty-eight feet wide. The foundation was laid in October, 
1827, and it was opened by the Queen (then Princess) in 1832. 
A short distance from the bridge stood a Roman gateway, which 
was taken down some years since, and on the opposite side of 
the river, in " Edgar's Field," is a statue of Pallas. This, to- 
gether with the New Cemetery, may be visited by crossing the 
Grosvenor Bridge. 

Continuing our route along the walls, we now arrive at the 
Castle, the foundation of which is variously referred to the 
Roman era and, the reign of William the Conqueror. This 
ancient structure was pulled down in the last century, to make 
room for the present noble pile of buildings. The main entrance 
is through a handsome Doric portico of ten fluted columns, each 
cut out of a single block of stone. The Castle is enclosed by a 
fosse thirteen feet deep, surmounted with a handsome iron rail- 
ing. Behind the guard-room is Caesar's Tower, a remnant of 
the ancient edifice. Facing the front entrance is the Shire Hall, 
whose portico of twelve columns resembles that of the outer 
entrance, in having pillars of single blocks of stone. The hall 
is semicircular in form, with a handsome dome ceiling supported 
by twelve Ionic columns of single stones. On the left hand 
stands the County Gaol, a fine commodious range of buildings. 
Near the grand portico is the Combermere Monument, erected 
at a cost of ;£7,ooo. Again resuming our circuit of the walls, 
we walk over the Bridge Gate (rebuilt in 1782), so called because 
it is the gate leading to the old bridge. The earliest bridge over 



214 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

the river in this place was a wooden one, in the time of Ethel- 
fled a. This was twice destroyed in the thirteenth century, in 
the latter end of which Edward I. compelled the citizens to erect 
the present edifice, which consists of seven arches. The appear- 
ance of antiquity, however, is spoiled on the east end by the 
iron-plate footpath erected in 1826, which gives it an incon- 
gruous look. Alongside the bridge are the old Dee Mills, whose 
erection dates from a long period anterior to the reign of Edward 
III. In Lower Bridge Street, which leads from Bridge Gate, 
stands the house in which Charles I. resided during the siege. 
We next reach New Gate, a plain arched gateway erected in 
1608, in place of a postern which formerly occupied the same 
position. Passing onward, we leave the Wesleyan Methodist 
Chapel on the right, and soon come to East Gate, the point from 
which we started. This gate, built at the expense of the then 
Marquis of Westminster, consists of a remarkably fine centre 
arch and two posterns. The foundation stone was laid in 1768, 
The old gate had a very beautiful Gothic arch, and two massive 
octagonal towers, but was too narrow. At a still earlier period 
a Roman gateway occupied the same spot. 

Outside the walls, between Bridge Gate and East Gate, is the 
Church of St. John the Baptist. The foundation took place in 
689 ; but the old steeple fell in during the year 1468, and being 
rebuilt, fell in once more in 1574. The church was then re- 
paired, and reduced to its present size. " At the east end of the 
church are the ruins of the chapels, about the choir, consisting 
of the outer walls, with the remains of several windows of Gothic 
architecture ; and the eastern wall, containing a beautiful arched 
window, of the same style, but larger and richer in ornament 
than the others." There are numerous other churches. One of 
the many curious features of this fine old city is the Rows, which 
occupy the greater part of the old Roman ways — Eastgate Street, 
Watergate Street, Northgate Street, and Bridge Street. Pennant 
says of them, ' ' These Rows appeal' to me to have been the same 
with the ancient vestibules, and to have been a form of building 
preserved from the time that the city was possessed by the Romans. 
They were the places where dependents waited for the coming out 
of their patrons, and under which they might walk away the tedious 
minutes of expectation. Plautus, in the Third Act of his Mostel- 
laria, describes both their station and use. The shops beneath 
the Rows were the cryptse and apothecae, magazines for the 
various necessaries of the owners of the houses." The Rows, in 
fact, are two terraces of shops, one above the other — the " first 
floor front" of each house forming a sort of gallery over the 
ground floor. These galleries can be reached by flights of steps 
at either end of the Row, and at convenient distances in the 



CAERNARVON. 



interval. In one of the houses of the Bridge Street Row is a 
Romanhypocaust, or sweating-bath, fifteen feet long, eight feet 
wide, and six feet seven inches deep, on much the same principle 
as the modern Turkish bath. 

Before leaving Chester, the tourist should not fail to visit 
Eaton Hall, the palatial seat of the Duke of Westminster. It 
is about three miles distant, Grosvenor Bridge way, and is open 
to visitors by tickets, which they can procure at the Grosvenor 
Hotel, or of any newsvendor. The Hall is a very elaborately 
pinnacled and turreted pile, 460 feet in length. It is beautifully 
finished inside and out, and contains several fine paintings. The 
marble floor of the entrance hall alone cost 1,600 guineas. From 
this the tourist may form some idea of the magnificence of the 
building and its furniture. The gardens are also worth seeing. 



SECTION XV. 

HOLYHEAD TO CHESTER, via BANGOR, CAERNARVON, 
LLANBERIS, AFON-WEN, PORTMADOC, FFESTINIOG, 
HARLECH, BARMOUTH, ABERYSTWITH, DOLGELLY, 
BALA, CORWEN, LLANGOLLEN, RUABON, AND 
WREXHAM. 

CHANGING trains at Bangor, a journey of nine miles con- 
ducts the traveller to 

Caernarvon 

[Hotels : " Royal" (late "Uxbridge Arms"), "Sportsman," " Queen's," 
"Prince of Wales," and " Castle"], 

as its name implies, is a "fortified town in the district op- 
posite Mon " — i. e. Anglesea. The Roman town Segontium 
stood within half a mile of Caernarvon, on a conical hill, 
surrounded by a wall, of which there are considerable remains. 
A Roman villa and baths, and some very rare coins, have 
been lately discovered. The principal object of interest at 
Caernarvon, however, will always be the Castle. The founda- 
tion of the Castle by Edward I., the birth in it of his son, and a 
general outline of its historical associations, are familiar to all ;. 
but that such an immense structure could have been built in 
a few years, as is popularly supposed, seems impossible. The 
external walls, which are lofty, and about ten feet thick, have 



216 LONDON AXD NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

galleries running through them, and are defended by thirteen 
pentagonal, hexagonal, and octagonal towers. At the main 
Gothic entrance is a mutilated statue of Edward I. Several 
dungeons may still be seen : among them the one in which 
Prynne, the celebrated author of Histriomastrix, was confined 
by Charles I. A small steamer plies from Caernarvon to the 
southern shore of Anglesea, affording the tourist opportunities of 
visiting Newborough and its neighbourhood. From Caernarvon 
the ascent of Snowdon (3,571 feet) is easily made, by taking the 
train to Llanberis. 



CAERNARVON TO BEDDGELERT AND TREMADOC 

{by Coach). 

During the summer months there are coaches to Beddgelert. 
Six miles from Caernarvon we reach 

Nant Mill, 

a favourite spot for the painter, the mill, with its pretty cascades 
and surrounding scenery, having employed the artist's pencil times 
innumerable. The celebrated painter, David Cox, A.R.A., made 
a beautiful drawing of this spot, which sold in 1867 for the 
largest amount ever paid for one of his pictures. 

Ilyn Cwellyn. 

This lake is situated about six miles and a half from Caernarvon, 
towards Beddgelert. It is noted for a species of char, Sctlmo 
alpinus (Lin.), called, in Welsh, torgoch, "red-belly," found 
formerly in Llyn Peris, and in some lakes of Switzerland. These 
fish seldom wander beyond the limits of the lake. In the frost 
and rigour of December they sport near the margin of the lake, 
but in the heat of summer they confine themselves to the deeps. 
At the upper end of this beautiful lake stood the residence of 
the Qwellyns, a family now extinct, who took their name from 
the place. At the south end of the pool that part of Mynydd 
Mawr, called Castell Cidwm, " the Wolf's Castle," forms a bold 
and striking feature, seeming to overhang its base. Tradition 
states that it was at one time the stronghold of a renowned 
gigantic warrior, or rather robber chief, named Cidwm. 

Beddgelert. 

[Hotels : "Royal Goat " and "Prince Llewelyn."] 
Beddgelert, a picturesque village, is situated in a beautiful 




PONT ABERGLASLYN (FROM BELOW THE BRIDGEK 



LLANBERIS. 11* 



tract of nleadoWs, at the junction of three vales, near the con- 
fluence of the Glaslyn and the Colwyn, which flow through Nant 
Colwyn, a vale leading to Caernarvon. "This situation," says 
Mr, Pennant, "seems the fittest in the world to inspire reli- 
gious meditation — amid lofty mountains, woods, and murmuring 
streams. " The church is small, yet the loftiest in Snowdonia. 
The ancient mansion house, near the church, might have been 
the residence of the prior. In this house is shown an old pewter 
mug that will hold upwards of two quarts ; any person able to 
grasp it with one hand and to drink it off at one draught is 
entitled to the liquor gratis, and the tenant is to charge it to the 
lord of the manor, as part payment of his rent. 

Tradition says that Llewelyn the Great came to reside at 
Beddgelert during the hunting season, with his wife and children, 
and that one day, the family being absent? a wolf had entered 
the house. On returning, his greyhound, called Gelert, met him, 
wagging his tail, but covered with blood. The prince, being 
alarmed, ran into the nursery, and found the cradle in which the 
child had lain, overturned, and the ground stained with blood. 
Imagining the greyhound had killed the child, he imme- 
diately drew his sword and slew him, but on turning up the cradle 
he found the child alive under it, and the wolf dead. This so 
affected the prince that he erected a tomb over his faithful dog's 
grave, where afterwards the parish church was built, and called 
from this accident Bedd-Gelert, or " Gelert's Grave." 

The Caernarvon coach passes through Beddgelert. Guides to 
Snowdon may be procured here. 

About a mile and a half from Beddgelert, on the road to 
Tremadoc, is situated Pont Aberglaslyn, or the ' ' Bridge of the 
Confluence of the Blue Pool," of which we give a coloured view. 
This spot is mentioned by Giraldus Cambrensis as being the 
roughest and most dreary part of Wales : it is bounded on each 
side by mountains of such terrific height that they seem to carry 
their cliffs into the sky. There is good fishing in the river : it 
abounds with salmon and trout. 

From Beddgelert the tourist will have to proceed by private 
conveyance to Tremadoc, which we describe on page 219. 

Llanberis 

[Hotels : " Victoria," " Dolbadarn," and "Padarn Villa/ 3 ] 
is eight miles distant. Llanberis lies near Lakes Llyn Peris and 
Llyn Padarn, the former and upper rather more than a mile long,, 
the latter and lower two miles in length. They both lie in a 
direction from south-east to north-west, and are not more than a 
quarter of a mile apart, a neck of rich meadow land separating 



2i8 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 



them ; a narrow stream flows from one to the other. Mountains 
of varied forms rise abruptly on both sides of these lakes ; those 
surrounding the head of Llyn Peris are most majestic and sub- 
lime. Both lakes are very deep. Dolbadarn Castle is about 
200 yards from the Victoria Hotel. It is a single circular 
tower, occupying a rocky point, of no great elevation, at the 
foot of Llyn Peris. It was long held by Llewelyn, the last 
Prince of Wales of the British line. Opposite Dolbadarn Castle 




Last half-mile of Ascent of Snowdon. 



are the extensive Dinorwic Slate Quarries, owned by G. W. D. 
Asheton Smith, Esq., employing the labour of about 3,000 men. 
Llanberis has become the principal resort of tourists visiting 
Snowdon. From the hotel to the summit is only five miles. 
Snowdon has four great ridges, between each of which yawn pre- 
cipitous hollows. These ridges intersect each other in the form 
somewhat of a Maltese cross, and from the point of intersection 
rises the lofty peak, the main summit of the mountain. There 
are several other ascents besides this from Llanberis, but they are 
not so easy, and have no greater beauties to compensate for the 
additional fatigue encountered. The usual path is by the water- 
fall of Ccunant Mawr, to a vale called Cwiii Brwynog, thence 



along the ridge which immediately overlooks the Vale of Llan- 
beris, till within sight of a black and almost perpendicular rock, 
named Clogwyn-Dhu-'r-Arddu, with a small lake at its bottom. 
This being passed at about a quarter of a mile on the right hand, 
the next steep ascent is called Llechwedd-y-Rhy, which being 
attained, the course is south-west to a well, whence the highest 
peak, now full in view, is distant about a mile ; and the re- 
mainder of the ascent, although steep, is tolerably smooth. 
Near the top is a spring of pure water, remarkably cold. 
The summit, not more than six or seven yards in diameter, 
is surrounded by a dwarf wall, on which it is convenient 
to lean or sit while quietly surveying the magnificent pro- 
spects on every side. From Llanberis the tourist may 
take the coach through the ' ' Pass, " by way of Capel Curig, to 
Bettws-y-Coed, a picturesque spot much frequented by artists, 
proceeding thence by rail through the vale of Llanrwst to 
Llandudno Junction, where he will join the main line. The 
lover of romantic scenery will find it far pleasanter to do this 
than to return to Bangor, via Caernarvon. 

Continuing the tour from Caernarvon, we pass Llanwnda and 
Groeslon, and reach the station at Penygroes, whence a short 
branch conducts the tourist to 

Nantlle. 

Here there are some extensive slate quarries, situated in a 
valley full of picturesque beauty. 

Returning to Penygroes, there is little to interest the traveller 
until he arrives at 

Afon-Wen, 

where he will have to change trains. The line thus described, 
though only seventeen miles in length, unites the two bays of 
Caernarvon and Cardigan. Continuing the route round Car- 
digan Bay, the traveller is taken past the station of Criccieth to 

Tremadoc and Portmadoc. 

[Hotels : " Royal," "Maddock Arms," "Ship," and "Commercial."! 

Tremadoc, or Madocks' Town, is built on the western extremity 
of some reclaimed land, and near the base of a lofty rock. It is a 
regularly built town, with many useful public buildings. Port- 
madoc is a harbour of recent construction, accessible to vessels of 
300 tons burden. It has spacious quays and a lively trade. 

Here may be seen the results of a noble effort to reclaim a 
vast tract of land from the ocean, accomplished by the late W. 
A. Madocks, Esq. This tract was formerly a waste sandy marsh, 
covered by high tides. By means of an embankment, one mile in 



220 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

length, built at a cost of more than ,£100,000, it has been secured, 
and is now profitably employed. 

From Tremadoc an excursion may be made to Beddgelert, 
passing over some of the most splendid scenery in North Wales, 
including the famous Pont Aberglaslyn, for description of which 
see page 217. 



THE FFESTINIOG EAILWAY. 

The seaward terminus of the Ffestiniog railway is at Port- 
madoc. This line is one of the most interesting in the kingdom. 
The route from Portmadoc to Ffestiniog, by the celebrated 
toy railway, is a favourite one with tourists generally. It is a 
single line of one foot eleven and a half inches gauge, extending 
from the shipping port of Portmadoc to some slate quarries at 
Dinas, in the neighbourhood of Ffestiniog. Its length is between 
thirteen and fourteen miles, exclusive of a branch about a mile 
long leading to Duffws. In the short distance thus traversed the 
main line rises 700 feet, the rising gradients being continuous, 
but variable. The least gradient is one in 186, while the steepest 
is one in 68 '69. 

Journeying through a rugged but picturesque tract of country, 
now creeping along the steep hill-side hundreds of feet above the 
valley below, now crossing deep ravines on narrow embankments, 
or rather walls of dry stone masonry, some of them sixty feet in 
height, and then again threading its way through cuttings in the 
rock, only to burst out anew into the open and disclose a fresh 
panorama to the view, the line presents ever- changing features 
of interest alike to the engineer and to the tourist. Throughout 
almost its entire course it consists of a series of curves, varying 
in radius from eight chains to as little as one chain and three- 
quarters, some of the curves of the latter radius being 200 feet in 
length. There are two tunnels on the line, one 60 yards, and 
the other 730 yards in length. The shorter tunnel passes through 
a slate formation, while the longer one is cut through syenite. 

There are, besides the termini, four intermediate stations on 
the Ffestiniog Railway, namely, Minfford Junction (the next 
station to Portmadoc, where there is the transhipment station for 
interchange of traffic with the Cambrian Railway), Penrhyn, 
Tan-y-Bwlch, and Tan-y-Grisian. These stations have no plat- 
forms (the lowness of the carriages rendering this unnecessary), 
but they are provided with all requisite accommodation, although 
on a small scale. The engine sheds and the principal construct- 
ing and repairing shops are about a mile from Portmadoc, and 
there is also a carriage shed close to the latter station. Every 



222 LONDON AND NORTID WESTERN GUIDE, 



thing at these workshops and running sheds is of course in minia- 
ture, but they are none the less complete on that account. 

The line is worked on the ' ' staff " system, assisted by tele- 
graph. All the stations and signal-boxes are in telegraphic 
communication with each other, and the signalling arrangements 
are as complete as on ordinary lines of the four feet eight and a 
half inches gauge. The same remark also applies to the systems 




On the Ffestiniog Railway, 
of points and crossings, turn-tables, and other fixed plant required 
for accommodating the traffic. 

The year 1869 was marked by the introduction of the 
Fairlie engine, Little V/onder, on the Ffestiniog Railway. The 
engine is mounted on two steam bogies, each bogie having four 
coupled wheels two feet four inches in diameter. Each two has 
a pair of cylinders 8f\ inches in diameter, with thirteen inches 
stroke. In ordinary work this engine will take up a train con- 
sisting of three carriages (first, second, and third class), a guard's 



FFESTINIOG. 223 



break-van, six goods waggons, and one hundred and twelve empty 
slate waggons ; the total gross weight, inclusive of engine, being 
27I tons. 

A train of this description measures over 1,200 feet in length, 
and on some parts of the line it is thus on three or more curves 
at once, the different portions of the train moving towards almost 
all points of the compass. Riding in one of the last carriages of 
such a train, it is at times difficult for a stranger to realize the 
fact that the engine which he sees moving along the contrary side 
of a ravine, in a direction almost exactly opposite to that in 
which he is travelling, can possibly have any connection with the 
vehicle in which he is sitting. 

The speed was at first limited by the Board of Trade regula- 
tions to twelve miles per hour ; but more recently these restric- 
tions have been entirely removed, the result being that on por- 
tions of the line free from curves the Little Wonder will some- 
times run at a speed of over thirty miles per hour. 

It may, perhaps, be desirable that we give some particulars 
of the traffic which the Ffestiniog line is accommodating. We 
have not figures more recent by us ; but during 1869 the pas- 
sengers carried amounted to 97,000, and the goods and mineral 
traffic to 18,600 tons and 118,132 tons respectively. The total 
receipts for the year were ^23,676 12s. iod., while the cost of 
working, repairs, and maintenance was ^"10,518 6s. 3d., and the 
special expenditure ^2,535 us. 7d., making the total expendi- 
ture ^13,053 17s. iod. ; the line thus yielded during the year a 
net revenue of ,£10,622 15s., equal to a dividend at the rate of 
29J per cent, on the original capital of ,£36, 185 10s., or at the 
rate of 12J per cent, on the present capital of ^86, 135 10s. The 
£"50,000 forming the difference between the present and original 
capital has, we should state, been accumulated out of revenue. 
Notwithstanding the large amount of traffic it has accommodated, 
it must be borne in mind that the Ffestiniog Railway is very far 
from being worked up to its full capacity : there is no night traffic 
on it, and no Sunday trains are run. 

This railway will not convey the tourist all the way to Ffes- 
tiniog town ; at Duffws he must change trains, and cross the 
road to another station. A new line between Ffestiniog and 
Bettws-y-Coed is now in course of construction. When opened, 
it will afford an alternative route, through a line of country rich 
in all the distinctive features of the Principality, by which the 
tourist may reach the North Wales coast, 

Ffestiniog 

[Hotels : " Pengwern Arms/' ft Abbey Arms," and " Queen's"], 
"the Place of Hastening, " is a village situated in a most 



224 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

enchanting vale. The inhabitants are chiefly engaged in the 
slate quarries, which are situate about four miles from the village. 
About half a mile from Ffestiniog are the Falls of the Cynfael : 
one of them is about three hundred yards above, and the other 
three hundred below, a rustic stone bridge. The upper fall 
consists of three steep rocks, over which the water foams into a 
deep basin, overshadowed by the adjoining precipices. The 
other is formed by a broad sheet of water, falling over a slightly 
shelving rock, about forty feet high. After the water has 
reached the bottom of the deep concavity, it rushes along a 
narrow rocky chasm, when, rolling amid the shaggy rocks, it 
glistens among the scattered fragments, and, falling from slope 
to slope, gains another smooth bed, and steals among the 
mazes of the vale. Between the lower cataract and the bridge is 
a tall columnar rock, which stands in the bed of the river : it is 
called ' ' Pulpit Hugh Llwyd Cynfael," or ' ' Hugh Lloyd's Pulpit. " 

Near Ffestiniog ran the ancient military way, called Ffordd 
Helen, or Helen's Road ; it was paved with stones, even along 
these steep and almost inaccessible mountains, and was the 
work of Helena, wife of the Emperor Maximus. Several of the 
kind may be seen both in North and South Wales. There 
are few vales which afford such delightful prospects as that of the 
Vale of Ffestiniog. 

Tommen-y-Mur, near Ffestiniog, was a Roman station ; 
the village of Maentwrog is seated nearly in the middle of it. 



Resuming the route from Portmadoc, the next station of any 
moment is 

Harlech. 

[Hotel : " Blue Lion."] 
Harlech, or Harddlech, "a Bold Rock," is situated upon a 
barren rock, and is the county town of Merionethshire. It is 
remarkable for nothing besides its castle, which is built upon a 
cliff overhanging the marsh, upon the sea coast, near Cardigan 
Bay. The name of this fortress is said to be derived from 
its situation ; it was originally called Twr Bronwen, from 
Bronwen, "the Fair-bosomed," sister to Brenapllyr, Duke of 
Cornwall and subsequently King of Britain, In the eleventh 
century it was denominated Caer-Colwyn, from Colwyn ap 
Tango, who flourished in the time of Anavaud, about A.D. 877, 
and resided in a square tower, of which there are some remains. 
According to some of the British historians, Harlech Castle was 
built by Maelgwyn Gwynedd, prince of North Wales, about 
the year 550 ; and it is generally believed that Edward I. 
built this castle upon the ruins of the former. It appears 



BARMOUTH JUNCTION— ABERYSTWITH. 225 

to have been completed before the' year 1283, for Hugh de 
Wlonkeslow was the constable, with a salary of ^"ioo. In the 
forty-fourth year of Elizabeth the constable's allowance was 
no more than £*p. In 1404 this Castle, along with that of 
Aberystwith, was seized by the ambitious Owen Glyndwr, 
during his rebellion against Henry IV. They were both retaken 
about four years afterwards, by an army which the King 
despatched into Wales. Margaret of Anjou, the spirited queen 
of Henry VI., after the King's defeat at Northampton, in 1460, 
fled from Coventry and found an asylum in this fortress. The 
castle was utterly unassailable on the side overhanging the sea, 
and on the other side was protected by a prodigious wide and 
deep fosse, cut at an immense expense through the solid rock. 
From Harlech the line proceeds to 

Barmouth Junction, 

at the mouth of the Mawddach, Towyn, a small watering-place, 
and thence to its rival, Aberdovey, the Torquay of Wales. St 
runs along the northern bank of the Dovey to Machynlleth, the 
Roman Maglona, where Owen Glendower summoned the Welsh 
Parliament after being elected Prince. The train next descends 
the southern bank of the river to Glandovey and Ynys-las ; thence 
past Borth (lately a small village, with nothing to recommend it 
but its sandy beach, but now yearly rising in importance as a 
summer resort) to Llanfihangel and Bow Street. A run of four 
miles and a quarter brings one to 

Aberystwith 

[Hotels : li Queen's," " Belle Vue," "Lion," and "Talbot"], 
(population 6,898), whose natural advantages as an agreeable 
and healthy watering-place are being yearly supplemented by 
improvements. The town is situated at the confluence of the 
Vstwith and Rheidol, whence its name ; for aber means the 
estuary. Though the site is elevated, there is good protection, 
where protection is most needed — on the east and north, and the 
streets are wide and regular. The neighbouring silver mines 
have been worked for several centuries, and formerly with great 
profit, especially by Sir Francis Bacon, who so ably supported 
Charles I. with men and money, and by Sir Hugh Myddleton, 
to whom London is indebted for a considerable portion of her 
water-supply. 

The Castle stood on a promontory in the port, and from its 
position commanded the sea approach as well as the mouths of 
the rivers. The present remains are of a fortress erected in the 
thirteenth century, on the ruins of an earlier structure raised by 
Strongbow in the reign of Henry I, They consist of portion 

is 



. - 



226 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

of three towers, one of which has been restored, and an arched 
doorway. The view of the coast from this commanding situa- 
tion is very fine. 

An entrenched position on the hill near the Rheidol Bridge is 
variously referred to the Britons, who besieged the original castle 
of Strongbow, and to the Parliamentary forces, who were long 
seated before it. The assembly-rooms, churches, theatre, town- 
hall, etc., call for no remark ; but the excursions are numerous 
and delightful, embracing, amongst places of less interest, the 
Devil's Bridge and the mountain of Plinlimmon : the latter 
should not be ascended without a guide. 

The Devil's Bridge 

[Hotels : "Devil's Bridge/' and " Havod Arms," at Havod, four miles 
distant], 

is a single arch thrown over a precipitous abyss, about twelve 
miles from the town. The original bridge was built at the cost 
of the monks of Ystrad Florida Abbey, in the eleventh century, 
and, being an undertaking apparently beyond the power of human 
agency, was, like most feats out of the common way in those 
clays, considered to be the work of the evil one. The present 
structure spans the chasm over the older one, which is still stand- 
ing. The view downwards from the parapet is most impressive, 
but it should also be seen from below. In order to obtain a 
nearer and less interrupted view of the tremendous fissure, and of 
the torrent that rushes through it, proceed over the bridge, and, 
turning round to the right hand, descend an abrupt and perilous 
path that conducts to the base of the rocks on the eastern side of 
the arch. Language is but ill calculated to convey an accurate 
idea of the scene which is presented to the eye. The awful 
height of the fissure which the bridge bestrides, 120 feet above 
the observer, rendered doubly gloomy by its narrowness and the 
wood which overhangs it ; the stunning noise of the torrent 
thundering at his feet, and struggling through black opposing 
rocks, which its ceaseless impetuosity has worn into shapes both 
strange and grotesque, fill the mind with a mingled but sublime 
emotion of astonishment, terror, and delight. 

Resuming the route from Barmouth Junction to Chester, the 
line proceeds to 

Dolgelly 

[Hotels : (f Royal Ship," " Golden Lion," and "Angel "J, 
the county town of Merioneth. Though w T ith little to recom- 
mend it to the admirers of architectural beauty, yet its lovely 
situation at the foot of Cader Idris, in the vale through which 



the Wnion flows, more than compensates for its artistic defi- 
ciencies. 

The places to be visited in the neighbourhood are very nume- 
rous, including the Torrent Walk, Nannau Park, and two fine 
waterfalls. " I know of no place," says Sir R. Hoare, "in the 
Principality from whence so many pleasing and interesting 
excursions may be made, and where nature bears so rich, so 
varied, and so grand an aspect." 

The ascent of Cader Idris (2,914 feet) is rather difficult, and 
should not be undertaken without a guide. A tourist describes 
the view from the summit as follows : — "The scene was indeed 
noble and extensive. Mountain beyond mountain rose in the 
distance beneath us and bounded our prospect in one direction, 
while it was terminated in another by a broad and beautiful 
expanse of ocean, glittering brilliantly in the sunbeams. Towns, 
villages, rivers, and lakes (of which we counted upwards of 
twelve) were submitted unobscured to our view. " 

Leaving Dolgelly, Bala calls for a slight notice, as Bala Lake, 
in the neighbourhood, is much frequented by lovers of the rod, it 
being a good fishing station, and also by sportsmen during the 
season of grouse shooting. The lake is four miles in length and 
of great depth. Passing Corwen, the junction for Denbigh and 
Rhyl on the London and North- Western line, we arrive at 

Llangollen. 

[Hotels : ci Royal," "Hand," and " King's Head."] 
Llangollen is beautifully situated in a deep narrow valley, 
embosomed by lofty mountains and watered by the river Dee. 
Population 5,987. The bridge, anciently considered one of the 
seven wonders of Wales, is formed of four irregular pointed 
arches, and was erected in 1346, by Dr. John Trevor, Bishop of 
St. Asaph. The bed of the Dee is here composed of one con- 
tinued surface of solid rock. The w T ater has been known to rise 
in a few hours — at times — to the height of the bridge, bearing 
down some large trunks of trees and fragments of outhouses. 
Such inundations have occurred in the finest weather, when 
there has been neither rain nor thaw. They have been occasioned 
by a strong south-westerly gale blowing over Bala Lake, which 
has the effect of a tide rushing with great fury through a con- 
fined channel, committing ravages in its way. 

The Church is an ancient structure, partly in the Early English 
style of architecture, but it has recently been much enlarged. 
The roof is of oak, panelled and richly carved. The interior is 
neat, the east window well painted by Eglington : its subject is 
Christ in the Garden. It is dedicated to a British saint named 
Collen, hence the name of the town, Llan-gollen, i.e. the 



228 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

w Church of Colleii." In the churchyard is a monument to the 
" Ladies of the Vale," two romantically attached friends who 
chose to lead maiden lives rather than be separated by marriage. 
Plas Newydd, where they resided, is situated near the outskirts 
of the little town. 

Castle Din as' Bran stands to the north of the town, on a 
conical hill, at the entrance of a vale, of still greater beauty than 
Llangollen, called Valle Cruris. The castle is one of the oldest 
in Wales. The valley has also the attractions of an abbey ruin, 
and Eliseg's Pillar, or Cross, from which it derives its name. It 
is said to be the oldest British column extant, and was a sepul- 
chral cross, as the inscription intimates. 

The line to the next station of moment, 

Ruabon 

[Hotel : " Wynnstay Arms "], 
lies through a vale deriving its celebrity from no mean or adven- 
titious charms. From all points the scenery is replete with 
beauty. On one side rise the bold limestone rocks of Eglwyseg, 
and the heavy mountain chain which divides the Clwyd lands 
and Llangollen from each other. On the other side the Berwyn 
stretches its protracted lines. Through the broad base of the 
valley the river Dee winds its sinuous course ; whilst the admired 
Pont-y-Cysylltan, with its nineteen arches spanning the vale, 
and the more recently built railway viaduct across the stream, 
with numerous mansions and cottages dotting the landscape, 
heighten the marvellous effect which so glorious a picture pro- 
duces. The scene has often been compared favourably with 
that of the Rhine. 

Ruabon (population 15,150) has a good situation, and a few 
hours or a day may be agreeably spent in visiting the Church (in 
which, among many others, notice Sir Watkin Wm. Wynne's 
handsome monument) and the coal and iron works in the neigh- 
bourhood. The line next conducts the traveller to 

Wrexham 

[Hotels : "Wynnstay Arms," "Lion," and "Turf"], 
a market town, described by the poet Churchyard as the pearl of 
Denbighshire. The chief object is the Church, which was once 
considered one of the seven wonders of Wales : it was erected in 
1472. Municipal population, 8,576; Parliamentary, 9,547. 
From thence the last stage is through Gresford, Rossett, to 
Chester. 



&.* 



ENGLAND 



SECTION XVI. 

CHESTER TO LIVERPOOL, via BIRKENHEAD. 

CHESTER is really in England, and is the chief town of the 
county to which it gives its name ; but we have included 
it in North Wales, both on account of its intimate connection 
with the principality, and also because it is a convenient starting- 
point for tours in its northern division. We now proceed to 
conduct the tourist to the places of interest served by the London 
and North- Western Railway, journeying first to the metropolis, 
via Liverpool, and then visiting other towns on the system. 

Leaving Chester, then, for Birkenhead the tourist passes through 
Mollington, Capenhurst, Ledsham, and Hooton stations, the 
latter a junction from which a branch turns off on the left to 
Parkgate, a much-frequented watering-place on the Dee, passing 
on the way Hadlow Road and Neston. The branch to the right 
passes through Sutton, Ellesmere Port, and Ince, to Helsby. 
Leaving ETootcm Junction, we arrive at 

Iromborough 
[ffoTELS ; " Bromborough " and " Ea<*tham u j 4 
a station very near Eastham Ferry, a place on the Mersey mugh 
used by the' inhabitants of Liverpool as a summer resort, and, 
from its picturesque character, for pic-nic parties, etc, Next 
come Spital station and Bebington, near which are some stone 



MAP OF THE 

LONDON 4 NORTH WESTERN RAILWAY 

AND ITS COMMUNICATIONS. 




ENGLAND 



SECTION XVI, 

CHESTER TO LIVERPOOL, via BIRKENHEAD. 

CHESTER is really in England, and is the chief town of the 
county to which it gives its name ; but we have included 
it in North Wales, both on account of its intimate connection 
with the principality, and also because it is a convenient starting- 
point for tours in its northern division. We now proceed to 
conduct the tourist to the places of interest served by the London 
and North- Western Railway, journeying first to the metropolis, 
via Liverpool, and then visiting other towns on the system. 

Leaving Chester, then, for Birkenhead the tourist passes through 
Mollington, Capenhurst, Ledsham, and Hooton stations, the 
latter a junction from which a branch turns off on the left to 
Parkgate, a much-frequented watering-place on the Dee, passing 
on the way Hadlow Road and Neston. The branch to the right 
passes through Sutton, Ellesmere Port, and Ince, to Llelsby. 
Leaving Hooton Junction, we arrive at 

Bromborough 
[JJotei<s ; " Eromborough " and " Eastham "J, 
a station very near Eastham Ferry, a place on the Mersey much 
used by the* inhabitants of Liverpool as a summer resort, and, 
from its picturesque character, for pic-nic parties, etc, Next 
come Spital station and Bebington, near which are some stone 



250 LOADON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

quarries in which rippled-marked rocks have been brought to 
light, furnishing evidence of the mode of formation of the strata 
of which they are a part. From thence the distance is short to 
Rock Ferry and Birkenhead, between which and Liverpool the 
company's steamers are constantly plying, the times of arrival 
and departure being arranged to suit the trains. 

Birkenhead 

[Hotels: "Woodside," "Queen's," "Royal/"' and " Clement's Com- 
mercial "], 

situated near the mouth of the Mersey, on the southern shore, facing 
Liverpool, with which there is constant communication by steam 
ferries. It is one of the many examples of the rapid growth 
of English towns from mere villages to vast centres of trade 
or manufacture. The principal fostering agent at Birkenhead 
has been its docks, ship-building and floating, including those 
of Messrs. Laird, where the Alabama was built. The docks cover 
a space of 500 acres, the business, principally American, being 
accommodated by extensive warehouses, quays, and wharves. 
The floating docks, opened in 1850, have an area of 150 acres, 
and afford the greatest facilities for loading and unloading goods 
and transmitting them with the utmost speed to any part of Great 
Britain. The Chester Railway runs to the Dock-side. A gun 
is fired precisely at one o'clock every day to enable mariners to 
time their chronometers. The charge is exploded by electricity, 
being in direct connection with Greenwich Observatory. The 
church is picturesquely situated, overlooking the river. It is 
part of the old "Priory of Byrkhed," which was founded in 
the reign of Henry II., by Hamon de Massey. The Benedictine 
monks in subsequent times claimed the monopoly of the ferry, 
by virtue of an old charter of Edward I., charging ^d. per head 
and 2d. for horse and man, which, considering the value of 
money at that time — as being nearly equivalent to the sovereign 
at the present day — must have been a great source of emolument 
to the order. The ferry is in the hands of the Town Commis- 
sioners of Birkenhead, and the profits are devoted to defraying 
the township expenses. The commodious steamers of which the 
ferry consists run unceasingly night and day. The Birkenhead 
Landing-stage, one of the sights of the town, is a remarkable 
structure, and suited to the growing importance of the place. 

The market at Birkenhead is worth visiting. Though not so 
large as that of St. John's at Liverpool, it is a far more elegant 
structure, The park, of which the Birkenhead public are 
justly proud, can be visited by taking Mr. G. F. Train's tram- 
way, the first street railway laid down in England. In the 



park, which is very extensive, are two beautiful serpentine 
lakes, on which float swans and aquatic birds of various kinds. 
These lakes are crossed by several rustic bridges, from which the 
spectators may watch shoals of gold-fish darting about in the clear 
water below. There is also a rockery or grotto, forming a charm- 
ing feature in the park. 



SECTION XVII. 

CHESTER TO LIVERPOOL, via RUNCORN. 

THE London and North- Western Railway Company have 
recently completed a new line of railway from the great 
bridge which crosses the River Mersey at Runcorn to Chester, 
bringing Liverpool within easy access of the ancient city of 
Chester, so that passengers from that city, North Wales, and 
Ireland can reach Liverpool without the unpleasantness of a ferry 
and a change of carriages. Hitherto passengers from these places 
have had to cross the Mersey at Birkenhead by the ferry to 
Liverpool. All this, however, is now changed, and travellers 
can take their seats in the train at Chester and go through to 
Liverpool. 

Leaving the station at Chester for Liverpool, the tourist passes 
through Dunham Hill and Helsby stations to 

Frodsham 

[Hotels: " Bear's Paw" and " Queen's Head"], 
in which is a fine old church, containing traces of Norman work, 
and commanding an extensive view. Frodsham Castle, of which 
nothing now remains but the walls, was given by Edward I. to 
Llewellyn's brother David ; he was subsequently executed for 
betraying his trust. The castle was burned down on the night of 
Earl Rivers' funeral ; its site is occupied by a commodious red 
brick house, surrounded by a beautiful garden. Frodsham is cele- 
brated for the longevity of its inhabitants. T. Flongh died here 
at the ripe old age of 141 years. The place has a population of 
4,164 inhabitants, who are principally employed in agriculture 
and in the neighbouring chemical works. 

Leaving Frodsham, we enter upon the approaches to the cele- 
brated and magnificent Runcorn Bridge and its viaducts. 



\2 LOXDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 



Runcorn Bridge. 

The entire length of this structure is two miles and 14 chains. 
The bridge is approached upon the Runcorn Viaduct, carried by 
thirty-three arches, one of 20 feet span, twenty-nine of 40 feet 
span, and three of 61 feet span. The first thirty arches cover a 
length of 22§ chains, built at an expense of £22,200, of which the 
works cost in construction £20,000, and the remaining £2,200 
was paid away for land and compensations. The viaduct is 
carried over the river Mersey at a height of 80 feet, by three 
girders of 305 feet span each, supported upon four massive cas- 
tellated piers, stretching over a distance, including three arches 
on the south side and six arches on the north, of 27§ chains. 
The expense of this portion of the structure was ,£311,900, 
of which £281,000 was paid for the cost of construction and 
,£30,900 for land, compensation, etc. A footway on each side 
supersedes the old tedious ferry. Ten other arches form the West 
Bank Viaduct (built at an expense of £"8, 320, of which £"820 was 
paid for land and compensation and the rest for works), which con- 
ducts to an imposing embankment containing 65,000 cubic feet 
of soil. This embankment was constructed fo 1*^5,530, the three last 
figures, £"530, being the cost of the land, etc. The line is now 
continued upon the Ditton Viaduct, which is carried upon forty- 
nine arches over a length of ground of 36^ chains. Its cost for works 
was £"54,800, and for land and compensation £"6,ooo, making a 
total of £"60,800. The Ditton embankment, containing 380,000 
cubic feet of earth, constructed for .£13,650, which sum includes 
,£1,350 paid away for land and compensation, finishes this 
magnificent viaduct, carrying the trains of the London and North- 
Western Railway over the low lands on the banks and over the 
waters of the busy Mersey. The total cost of this structure 
was £"4 22, 400— £"380,600 for works and £41,800 for land, com- 
pensation, etc. We give an engraving of Runcorn Bridge. 

One of the interesting features connected with the building of 
this bridge was a successful hoax played upon the trustful 
archaeological public by an anonymous writer in the Liverpool 
Mercury. While the foundations of the pier were being dug, an 
account appeared in that paper of the discovery of some valuable 
Roman antiquities, of which the dates and other characters were 
carefully and fully detailed. It was even stated that those in- 
terested in archaeological research could view the collection 
in one of the houses in the neighbourhood. Extended publicity 
to this statement was given in the London dallies, and a num- 
ber of archaeologists from various parts of the kingdom applied 
at the house named, and found, to their vexation and chagrin, 
that the whole was a fabrication from beginning to end. 




RUNCORN BRIDGE. 



Having crossed Ditton Viaduct and embankment, the tourist 
quickly reaches Ditton Junction, from whence the line is con- 
tinued through Halewood, Speke, Allerton, Mossley Hill, 
Wavertree, and Edge Hill stations, to the Lime Street 
terminus of the London and North- Western Railway, in Liver- 
pool. 



SECTION XVIII. 

CHESTER TO CREWE. 

LEAVING Chester, the train passes the unimportant stations 
of Waverton and Tattenhall, and arrives at 

Beeston, 

where are the ruins of an old castle, built in 1220 by Ralph 
Blundell, sixth Earl of Chester, upon his return from the Cru- 
sades. It stands upon the slope and sides of a high sandstone 
rock, very precipitous on one side. The whole structure covers 
a space of about five acres. The walls are of extraordinary 
thickness, the castle being one of the strongest built during a 
period of tumultuous foreign and civil wars. It was further 
strengthened by a deep ditch surrounding the keep, and cut with 
immense labour into the solid rock. The walls were defended 
by several round towers : two guarded the drawbridge by which 
the keep was entered. These may now be seen in a very fair 
state of preservation. A well, bored through the foundation 
rock to a depth of over 230 feet, made the garrison of this 
remarkable fortress independent of external supplies of water. 
Richard II. found Beeston Castle a place of safe keeping for his 
treasure during his visit to Ireland in 1309. The castle was 
subject to many vicissitudes during the civil war in the middle 
of the seventeenth century. It was besieged, taken, and re-taken 
several times by the Royalist and Parliamentary forces, and was 
finally dismantled in 1646 after the fall of Chester. The ruins 
are well worth a visit, Renewing the journey, the fryo stations, 
Calveley and Worleston, are found between Beeston and the im- 
portant Ration and junction of 

Orewe, 
on the main line of the London and North- Western Railway-. 



LOXDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE, 



SECTION XIX. 

LIVERPOOL. 

[Hotels: "London and North- Western," Lime Street; "Washington," 
Lime Street; "Adelphi/' "Waterloo," " Queen's," " Victoria," "Stork," 
"Angel," and " Compton."] 

THE interest attaching to this huge mart is very different from 
what has hitherto been aroused by many of the scenes through 
which we have carried our tourist — lake and mountain scenery, 
hoary ruins, antiquarian relics, and historical places associated 
with the bygone life of the nation. In Liverpool we find ourselves 
in a new world, as it were. If the tastes of our tourists run in the 
same channel as those of Dr. Johnson, this is the place for enjoying 
himself. The doctor's favourite "walk down Fleet Street," 
which he prized far above the most delightful of Arcadian retreats 
that the fervid imaginations of poets ever conceived, is not to be 
compared for life and bustle with Castle Street and Old Hall 
Street in Liverpool. The history of the town is comparatively 
but of yesterday. It is not even mentioned in Domesday Book. 
In 1644 it was called a " mere crow's nest," by Prince Rupert ; 
and it was not until the close of the seventeenth century that it 
became a bona fide corporate town, managed by its own burgesses. 
In 1561 its population was 690, in 186 1 it was 462,749, and 
by the census of 187 1 the population numbered no less than 
493,405, not to mention the additional twenty or twenty-five 
thousand seamen in the port ! The value of the exports in 1857 
was ^55, 173,756 ; while that of London was only ^"27,832,348. 
Although the importance of Liverpool is of quite recent date, 
being contemporaneous with the upspringing of England's greatest 
industry- — the cotton manufacture. The streets, now spacious and 
decorated with handsome structures, have seen more changes than 
those of many older cities. The rapidity of its progress is one of 
the mo^t remarkable instances of prosperity the world has ever 
seen in ancient and modern times, and reminds one of the so- 
called mushroom growth of some of the western American 
grain-marts. It is stated that Liverpool has for more than a 
century and a quarter invariably doubled its population, lo\vn| 
and dock dues, imports and exports, customs, receipts, and pay-i 
ments, every sixteen years. Tkere is scarcely a public building! 
in the town, not even its older churches, with one or two excep-r 
lions, seventy years old; for no sooner was a building erected foij 
municipal or commercial purposes than in a few years it was] 



LIVERPOOL. 235 



found inadequate to the increased wants of the town. The same 
may be said of the streets. In the town proper not a single 
instance occurs of a building retaining its original form. Many 
of them could not be finished as they were commenced, trade 
requiring the buildings, the foundations of which were laid for 
private residences. At the beginning of the nineteenth century 
the streets of Liverpool were harrow and ill built ; now the town 
has wide thoroughfares, embellished with a number of public 
edifices, which together enable Liverpool to compare favourably 
with any other town in the empire. 

The public buildings of Liverpool are the Town Hall, theEx- 
change Buildings, the Custom House, St. George's Hall, Brown's 
Free Public Library and Museum, the Walker Art Gallery, and the 
Municipal Offices. There are over seventy places of worship in 
Liverpool connected with the Church of England, and nearly tw T o 
hundred Dissenting and Roman Catholic chapels. With most 
of these are connected numerous Sunday and day schools, 
besides the other scholastic institutions of which Liverpool justly 
boasts. These are — the Liverpool College, the Liverpool Institute, 
Queen's College, Royal Institution Schools, and the magnificent 
schools of the Liverpool School Board. The city also supports 
many charities — ■ medical, provident, and religious. Though 
the principal business- of Liverpool is connected with the im- 
port and export trade, its manufactures are on a large scale, 
including wood and iron ship-building, foundries, steel-works, 
anchor and chain cable founderies, roperies, chemical works, 
and large sugar refineries. The markets of Liverpool are ten in 
number, and commensurate with its size. Since the corporation 
of this important seaport bestirred itself to provide for the needs 
of an increasing population, ^"300,000 has been spent in mural 
and sanitary improvements ; but in spite of all this, owing to its 
situation and the large influx of a foreign dissolute population, 
its death rate at times is higher than any elsewhere in Great Britain. 
The corporation property is valued at £3, 000, 000. The Dock 
Estate has an income approaching half a million. Liverpool is 
favoured with five public parks : the principal are the Stanley, 
and the S eft on. 

Having made these few general remarks about Liverpool, we 
purpose conducting the visitor through the town in such a 
manner as shall give the best opportunity of viewing all the more 
prominent features of the city. But before doing so, we would 
give the following information, which will be of use in our 
route : — ■ 

Hackney Carriage Rates. — For one or more passengers, 
is. per mile, and 6d. for each additional half-mile or lesser por- 
portion thereof. From midnight until 6 a.m., is. 6d, per mile, 



236 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

tion thereof. By time, 6d. for every fifteen minutes, or lesser 
and 9d. for each additional half-mile, or lesser portion thereof. 
These rates are inclusive of all charges for luggage, not exceed- 
ing 2 cwt. 

Messengers and Luggage Porters. — i. Licences to be 
registered with the town clerk, and numbered. 2. Porters to 
wear badges with numbers (which must be visible while plying 
for hire) and a distinguishing dress. 3. Messengers and luggage 
porters to be licensed (under 40s. penalty) and to wear a 
numbered badge. There are very moderate rates fixed, more 
than which they dare not demand. 

The Places of Public Amusement in Liverpool are : — 
The Alexandra Theatre, 3, Lime Street ; Amphitheatre (Royal), 
15, Great Charlotte Street ; Concert Hall, 17, Lord Nelson 
Street ; Queen's Hall, 65, Bold Street ; St. James's Hall, 60 
to 72, Lime Street ; Star Music Hall, 12, Williamson Square ; 
Theatre Royal, 12, Williamson Square; Gaiety Theatre, Cam- 
den Street ; Prince of Wales, Clayton Square ; and the Rotunda, 
Scotland Road. 

We will suppose that "our visiting friends" have entered 
Liverpool by either of the routes we have described, and have 
decided on making 

The London and North- Western Hotel 

their head- quarters during their stay in the town. This monster 
building is connected with the railway terminus, in Lime Street, 
and was erected by the London and North- Western Railway 
Company for the accommodation of travellers. It was opened on 
March 1st, 187 1, having occupied two years in building. The 
style of architecture is French Renaissance, producing something 
between a baronial hall and a French chateau. Its length in 
front is 317 feet, and its height to the top of the main cornice 
(above which are rooms under the lofty roof) is eighty-one feet 
three inches. In the centre of the building are two towers, sur- 
mounted by ornamental iron-work, each angle terminating in a 
slender pinnacle. These towers are seventy-six feet above the 
cornice, making a total height frGm the- ground of 157 feet, At 
the north and south ends are similar towers, gixty*one feet high. 
The internal arrangements of this hotel are well worthy of 
remark, The coffee-room, a handsome apartment, is 65 feet 
long by 29 feet wide. On the same floor is also a well-fitted 
reading-room, a smoking-room, and a well -furnished billiard- 
room, A wide, noble staircase leads to the upper floors, The 
corridors and stairs are of stone, and, as a special safeguard 
against fire, each corridor is furnished with three fire-cocks, fitted 




- 



LIVERPOOL. 237 

with about 200 feet of hose. The corridors are 300 feet long, 
and are, besides the security against fire, well supplied with hot 
and cold water. A distinct set of servants wait upon each floor. 
On the second and third floors are fourteen sitting-rooms, with 
bedrooms attached. There are in all 208 bedrooms. Each 
storey can be reached by lifts, available from 8 a.m. to 11 p.m., 
that used by visitors being worked by hydraulic power, and 
that for luggage by steam. The convenience afforded by this 
arrangement of lifts is a special feature of the London and North- 
western Hotel. Ladies can retire to private dressing-rooms 
between the first and second floors without the trouble of mounting 
to their bedrooms ; it is also of great use to delicate or infirm 
persons, who can thus avoid the exertion of walking up flights 
of stairs. Large doors open directly from the central hall of the 
hotel upon the paved and roofed platforms of the Lime Street 
terminus of the London and North-Western Railway. An 
immense glass screen cuts off the upper portion of the hotel from 
the roofed space enclosed by the station, reducing the noise of 
the railway traffic to a minimum. The hotel is warmed by steam, 
independently of fires in various parts of the building. Porters 
in livery attend the trains and remove luggage to and from the 
hotel, free of charge. A post and telegraph office will be found 
under the front of the building. This monstre hotel has been 
beautifully decorated, and the rooms have been furnished in a 
sumptuous and substantial manner. 

The charges are very moderate. Suites of rooms on the first 
floor range from 10s. 6d. upwards, on the second floor from 
8s. 6d. Single beds are as follows : — First floor, 4s. ; second 
floor, 3s. 6d. ; third floor, 3s. ; fourth floor, 2s. 6d. A bedroom 
occupied by two persons is charged is. extra. When two beds 
are in the same room, the charges are : — Third floor, 5s. ; fourth 
and fifth floors, 4s. Vehicles belonging to the hotel are charged 
2s. 6d. per hour for one-horse broughams ; carriages and pair as 
per arrangement. The charge for breakfast is from 2s. to 3s. ; 
for luncheon, from 2s. to 2s. 6d. ; for dinner, from 2s. 6d. to 4s. ; 
and for tea, from is. 6d. to 3s. 

Immediately opposite the hotel is 

St. George's Hall 

and Assize Courts, founded 28th of June, 1838, the Corona- 
tion Day of her Majesty, and opened at the close of the year 
185 1. Externally, the building is both grand and beautiful ; and 
internally is fitted up so as to fulfil a multitude of offices, for in it 
are the two assize courts, an immense hall for public meetings, 
and a concert hall. 

It is built of a warm tinted stone, and raised on a platform, 



which is approached by a fine sweep of well-proportioned steps, 
flanked by simple basements. Its general form varies in aspect, 
according to the points from which the building is surveyed ; 
from every point, however, at which a view can be obtained, its 
lines and masses combine in admirable groups. The general 
aspect from the south is that of an oblong Corinthian temple, 
with projections on the east and west sides. The projection on 
the eastern facade (Lime Street) forms a 'prostylar colonnade, 
200 feet long, with sixteen fluted Corinthian columns,' and un- 
derrated entablature ; the projection on the opposite side has no 
steps, and the columns are plain and square. The portico on the 
south is the gem of the whole structure. It surmounts a pedestal 
of noble steps, 150 feet wide, terminating in a pediment of 
graceful angle, the tympanum of which is enriched by a group of 
sculpture of Caen stone, in alto-relievo, representing Britannia 
offering the olive branch, with the lion at her side, and the 
Mersey flowing by her feet. On her other side is Mercury, 
leading to her Asia, Europe, and America,' the sword of power 
in her right hand, and raising with her left Africa, ' ' who is 
represented in a posture of gratitude and humility, with her sons 
in her arms, the breaking of whose chains is the work of Britannia, 
to whom she points." Beyond is Bacchus, the panther, and the 
wine vase. The other foreign products are represented by two 
figures, drawing to land their several cargoes. On the right of 
Britannia are the English Arts and Products advancing to meet 
Apollo. Science holds the lighted torch and guides her car, and 
Agriculture is at her side. Behind are the plough, the spindle, 
and the beehive, the peasant and his child forming a group, to 
represent the domesticity of England. Beyond is Metallurgy, 
forging the anchor, and engaged in the fabric of arms and 
machinery, which she knows so well how to use. 

The Great Hall is 169 feet by 80, and 82 feet in height from 
the floor to the highest part of the arched ornamented ceiling. 
A row of polished granite columns runs along at either side. 
The great organ, one of the largest in the world, has 108 stops 
and 8,000 pipes. The bellows are worked by a steam-engine in 
the vaults beneath. 

From the south end of the hall a flight of steps leads to the 
Crown Court, through bronzed doors of elaborate workmanship, 
and at the opposite end is the Civil Court, over which is the Con- 
cert Hall, calculated to accommodate 1,400 persons. 

While standing on the elevated eastern colonnade of St. 
George's Hall we have an excellent opportunity of glancing at 
many objects of interest in the magnificent area which stretches 
out before us on our right and left. In front rises the massive 
North- Western Hotel, which dwarfs most effectually the four 



LIVERPOOL. 239 



guardian lions at the principal entrance to the 1 area, between the 
hall and Lime Street. Then there is the Alexandra Theatre, a 
little to our left, having a brick front of very elaborate workman- 
ship, facing Lime Street. The foundation-stone was laid by 
Mademoiselle Titiens in 1866. Descending the steps we have 
before us, on the right, the equestrian statue of the Prince 
Consort, a bronze statue on a granite pedestal. Near by is the 
companion statue of her Majesty. Both are by Thornycroft, 
and cost ,£6,000. Crossing the road to the left from the statues 
we come to the 

Wellington Monument. 

The base of this monument consists of three granite steps, above 
which rises the square pedestal, to the height of ten feet from the 
base, and terminating in a chaste cornice, On the north side of 
the pedestal is inscribed the single but inspiriting word, " Wel- 
lington." On the east and west sides are inscribed the names of 
the Duke's most celebrated actions ; while on the south side is 
a bas-relief in bronze, representing the Iron Duke leading his 
guards on to the final charge at Waterloo. This spirited and 
well-executed group was designed by G. A. Lawson, Esq. At 
each angle of the pedestal is an eagle, and between each eagle is 
the wreath of victory. Out of a chaste torus rises a fluted shaft, 
132 feet high, leading the eye of the spectator upwards to a 
smaller pedestal, on which is placed the statue of the Duke. The 
statue represents the Duke standing in an easy position, with his 
hand on the hilt of his sword, while the figure is draped in a 
martial cloak. It is cast from cannon taken at Waterloo, given 
by the Government for this express purpose, and is fourteen feet 
high. 

A little to the north of St. George's Hall (and facing William 
Brown Street) is 

The Free Public Library and Museum, 

better known as Brown's Free Public Library and Museum. For 
the history and a more complete description of this important 
public building the reader should refer to Shaw's Shilling Guide 
to Liverpool. A free public library (called the Union News 
Room) was first founded in Liverpool in the year 1800, and 
was housed in a building in Duke Street, at an expense of 
;£ 1 1,000. The building, now occupied by the Library, and the 
noble collections conveyed to the public of Liverpool by the 
late Earl of Derby and Mr. Joseph Mayer, of Lord Street, 
was built at the expense of the late Sir William Brown, Bart., 
upon ground granted by the corporation, at a cost estimated as 
not less than ^40, 000. This noble benefactor of his race laid 



the foundation-stone upon the 15th of April, 1857. and, with 
imposing ceremonies, handed the completed structure over to 
the safe keeping and use of the town of Liverpool on the 1 8th of 
October, i860. The collection of stuffed animals which forms 
so large a portion of the museum was given to the public of 
Liverpool on October 18th, 1852, and was thrown open to the 
public on March 3rd of the following year. Perhaps the more 
remarkable and unique collection was that made by Mr. Joseph 
Mayer at the cost of about ,£70,000, and now valued at upwards 
of ;£ 1 20, 000. This collection was given to the corporation of 
Liverpool on the 6th February, 1867, and thrown open to the 
public on the following 10th of June. The collection of coins 
presented by Mr. Jackson, and some excellent sculptures and cases 
of objects on loan, comprise the chief attractions of this museum. 
We can afford room for only a slight glance at the more remark- 
able objects. 

The library and reading-room, being the oldest institution in 
connection with this building, will demand our first attention. 
The library contains upwards of 50,000 volumes, which are 
yearly increasing. The average number of works consulted each 
day is about 2,220. The library department contains a splendid 
reading-room, which will accommodate 600 persons. It is free 
to all respectable persons, and is open from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. 
A separate department is provided for literary men and students, 
and another room for females. These rooms are supplemented 
by a lecture -hall and board-room. A school of science and art 
is also provided for in the building. 

The central hall contains, among other objects, many pieces of 
sculpture bequeathed by the late Mr. Spence. The natural his- 
tory rooms contain a large collection of the objects usually 
found therein, including, in the bird- rooms, rapacious anknals, 
conders, eagles, owls, hawks, etc., tropical birds, with showy 
plumage, humming-birds, birds of paradise, British birds, in great 
variety, the cassowary, ostrich, etc., etc. The central cases of 
these rooms are occupied by collections of sponges, corals, sea- 
weeds, shells, crabs, lobsters, etc. There are also fish, reptiles, 
mammalia, monkey, and British fauna rooms, each of which 
contains an interesting collection of natural objects. 

It is more important to notice the collections made by Mr. 
Mayer. The basement floor is chiefly occupied with Assyrian 
and Egyptian antiquities. These include Canoptic and other 
vases, and objects covered with hieroglyphics. Also a collection 
of Greek and Etruscan vases. The bottom of one case is occu- 
pied by a beautiful sarcophagus, surmounted by a female figure, 
and containing vases, etc. Mummies and mummy cases may 
also be seen. A collection of models and objects used in every- 



LIVERPOOL. 241 



day life, illustrate the manners and customs of several foreign 
nations. In another case may be observed a grand array 
of the personal ornaments of Egyptian and Latin women of 
rank, consisting of rings, bracelets, necklaces, etc., made of gold, 
precious stones, etc. , glass, silver, gems, and corals. In the same 
case may be seen intaglios, cameos, Mexican deities in pure gold, 
Babylonish and Persian cylindrical seals, gems, and coins, Roman 
and Greek glass, dating 500 B.C. However, it would take too 
much room to thoroughly describe this collection. 

As we leave the museum, the Walker Art Gallery and the 
Picton Reading Room (now in course of erection) present them- 
selves to view on our left, while, directly opposite, St. John's 
Church occupies a prominent position. It is a somewhat ugly 
building. Passing it, we proceed, via St. John's Lane and Great 
Charlotte Street, to 

St. John's Market, 

the eastern side of which forms one side of Great Charlotte 
Street ; the southern end is in Elliot Street, and the northern in 
Roe Street. It is a brick structure, with stone dressings, rather 
sparingly used. Its length is 549 feet, and 135 feet broad. The 
roof is supported by 116 cast-iron pillars, each twenty- five feet 
high, and disposed in four parallel rows, reaching from end to 
end, thus dividing the interior into five longitudinal parallelo- 
grams. The whole interior circuit of the walls is occupied as 
shops. In the avenues are placed 350 yards of tabling, which 
are rented from the Markets Committee, and paid for according 
to their position. The lateral avenues are occupied chiefly by 
pork -butchers, dealers in game, butter, bacon, cheese, rabbits, 
poultry, flowers, etc., while in the central avenue are to be seen 
at all times a glorious display of the various English and foreign 
fruits, as they come successively into season. This building is 
lighted by 136 windows ; it has six side entrances and six other 
entrances, three at each end. It is paved with stone, regularly 
swept and washed by corporative servants, and kept strictly in 
order. 

Leaving the market by Queen's Square, we make our way 
through Manchester Street, to Dale Street, and visit 

The Central Police Station, 
a square, massive, and substantial, but unadorned pile. It con- 
tains the offices and court of the stipendiary magistrate (Mr. 
Raffles), the court of the borough coroner, and the offices of the 
detective police. At its rear, facing Hatton Garden, are one of 
the police-stations and the head-quarters of the fire police. A 
number of fire-engines are kept here, and men are in attendance 
night and day. The station of the salvage corps is directly opposite 



16 



The Municipal Offices 

are on the other side of Dale Street. They are located in a 
quadrangular building, having a stone facade to Crosshall 
Street, Sir Thomas's Buildings, and to Dale Street, which latter 
is the principal front. From its centre rises a tower and spire 
(moderately ornamented) to the height of 210 feet, termi- 
nating in a floral head, from which rises ornamental ironwork. 
In this tower is an excellent four-dialled clock, which rings the 
Canterbury chimes every quarter. Each, of the angles of the 
building partakes of the character of a tower, and is terminated 
by a pavilion roof, which is further ornamented by light 
ironwork on the top. The eastern and western sides are lighted 
up by forty-six windows, and ornamented by four circular three- 
quarter columns, and six square pilasters. The north front, in 
Dale Street, is lighted by fifty-six windows, and adorned by ten 
circular three-quarter columns, eight square pilasters, and six 
circular columns : the latter, projecting considerably, produce an 
elegant porch, protecting the principal entrance, which is reached 
by an easy flight of steps. Above a handsome cornice stands a 
series of statues, representing Europe, Asia, Africa, America, 
Commerce, and the Fine Arts. 

From Sir Thomas's Buildings to the venerable Town Hall, 
Dale Street, is an assemblage of hotels, offices, and shops, among 
which we mention, as worthy of notice, on our right, the Alex- 
andra Hotel, the Royal Hotel, the George Hotel, and Rigby's 
Buildings (the lower portion being vaults and waiting-rooms for 
'bus passengers) ; the Queen's Buildings, the London and Liver- 
pool Chambers, and the Town Hall. On our left are the follow- 
ing : — Colonial Buildings, the Temple, Royal Insurance Buildings, 
the Angel Hotel, Queen's Insurance Buildings, and the North- 
western Bank. Dale Street is of moderate width throughout, 
and measures 703 yards in length, from the Town Hall to Byrom 
Street, where it ends. It contains a pair of rails, used by the 
tramway 'buses, from the Town Hall to the top of Manchester 
Street. 

The Town Hall 

was commenced in 1 748, and opened for business in 1754, but 
had many additions and improvements made before it reached its 
present state. The portico and rustic arcade, which were added 
in 181 1, were much wanted. The design is Grecian ; the ""sky 
blotch " is bold and unsatisfactory ; while the detail of column, 
pilaster, cornice, window, etc., etc., is perfectly harmonious. On 
its walls various representations of Commerce and the Arts are 
richly and artistically combined, and executed by a master hand. 



The dome forms an elegant lantern, admitting light to the grand 
staircase, and is both supported and adorned by richly- carved 
Corinthian columns, and is further rendered useful by the insertion 
of a valuable clock, having four dials. From the floor of the 
entrance-hall there is an uninterrupted view to the dome above, 
a height of 106 feet, and there are some fine rooms, a few good 
portraits, and a bust, in pure Carrara marble, of the late John 
Gibson, R.A., all of which are worthy of notice. 

Leaving the civic palace, we wend our way northwards, and 
find ourselves on 

The Exchange Flags. 

Here we are attracted by a busy crowd of gentlemen, and notice 
salutations, sometimes cordial, others business-like. Here a soli- 
tary individual in deep thought, there an animated group ; again, 
yonder, they seem paired off, and are conversing on some important 
topic ; but one and all evidently bent on business. Gentle reader, 
these are the men whom with pride we call " merchant princes " 
— these are the men who keep the wheels of the mercantile 
machine in motion — these are the men who buy and sell by the 
tens of thousands of pounds in one transaction, many of them 
doing business to the amount of a million of money annually. 

Another point of attraction is the bronze statue of Nelson, 
placed in the centre of this area of commerce. It was cast by 
Westmacott, from designs by M. C. Wyatt, and may thus be 
described : — A circular pedestal is divided into four compartments 
by emblematical figures, who by their chains declare that they 
are captives, and from their contortions prove that they are 
suffering under mental anguish. Between each of these four 
figures are bas-reliefs, representing Nelson in some of his most 
spirited engagements ; while on the cornice are the well-known 
words, "England expects every man to do his duty." The 
main group represents the hero with his sword raised on high, 
on which Fame is placing the fourth wreath of victoiy, while 
the victor is treading under his feet the debris of war — dead 
bodies, broken artillery, blocks, cordage, etc. It is just at this 
auspicious moment that grim Death steals out of the ruins, and 
places his hand upon the hero's heart. Britannia is seen weeping 
over the sad fate of her bravest son ; while a tar approaches, with 
an aspect of determination and a weapon in his hand, to have 
vengeance upon the foe that has done this murderous deed. Other 
groups of statuary may be more elaborate, but few can be more 
truly termed works of art. 

The Liverpool Exchange. 

This building is situated in the rear of the Town Flail, and occu 



244 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

pies fully two acres of land. The news room is one of the most 
spacious and magnificent rooms in Europe ; it is seventy-five 
feet high, lighted by a large central dome of stained glass, and 
contains, with its accessories, 1,500 square yards. The roof is 
vaulted, and has no intermediate supports; consequently the 
whole area is free of obstruction. The floor is of oak, pine, and 
teak, laid in geometrical forms. The pilasters are of Irish red 
marble, the plinth and dado of Bardilla marble. The interior 
of the walls are of Caen stone, and in the arches are a series of 
emblematic groups of high artistic merit. On the exterior of the 
building some of the stone from the old Exchange is used, the 
remainder being supplied from the Hollington and Grinsill 
quarries. The arcades which surround three sides of the 
Flags add both beauty and convenience to the building, and 
have given a glorious opportunity for the introduction of statuary, 
which, from present appearances, will not be neglected, the 
statues of Columbus, Drake, Galileo, Mercator, Raleigh, and 
Cook being already in position. The cellarage capacity beneath 
the building and the Flags must be seen to be understood. The 
style is French Renaissance, which is light and cheerful. 

As we leave the Flags, and pass down Exchange Street West, 
we observe, a magnificent range of offices, with two colossal 
figures at the entrance door: this is "Brown's Buildings," 
erected by the late Sir William Brown, M.P., the donor of the 
Free Library and Museum. 

St. Nicholas Church 

is worthy of notice, as being the only object of antiquity in this 
enormous mushroom-growth of a city. It is familiarly known 
as the "Old Church." Tradition points to the site as having 
been held sacred from time immemorial. The original chapel 
was supposed to have been built in the reign of the Conqueror. 
It was subsequently rebuilt as a chapel-of-ease to Walton, in 
which parish Liverpool was included. The statue of St. Nicho- 
las, patron of mariners, stood in the churchyard, which was 
then washed by the flowing tide on the west, and was ultimately 
enclosed by a row of houses on the north. In A.D. 1699 Liver- 
pool was created a distinct parish, on condition of paying a 
small fee to Walton. In 1755 six new bells were set up in the 
tower of the old edifice. The old illuminated roof was removed, 
and the body rebuilt in 1774. On Sunday morning, nth of 
February, 1S10, the old tower and spire fell upon the roof, and, 
'oreaking through, buried a number of the worshippers, killing 
twenty-eight, and injuring others. The foundation-stone of the 
present tower was laid in 181 1. It was completed in August, 
18 1 5. The tower is 120 feet high, and the lantern sixty, making 



a total of 1 80 feet. The outside measurement is 102 feet by 
seventy. 

The Tower, 

which faces the south side of the church, was erected as one of a 
series of signal towers. The system of telegraphing vessels off 
Holyhead to Liverpool was of so much importance that a line of 
five semaphore stations was established and kept up before 
the introduction of the electric telegraph. When the late 
Admiral Fitzroy instituted his code of storm-signals this tower 
was used as a station, and the drum, or the cone, was fre- 
quently suspended at the top, to warn mariners of the approach 
of foul weather, 

Leaving St. Nicholas Church, and following the roadway 
recently constructed on the site of George's Basin, we find our- 
selves in the line of docks, an inspection of which forcibly recalls 
the lines of the poet, — 

" Behold, the crowded port, 
Whose rising masts an endless prospect yield, 
With labour burns, and echoes to the shout 
Of hurried sailors, as they hearty wave 
Their last adieu, and loosening every sail, 
Resign the speeding vessel to the wind." 

To get a general idea of the extent of 

The Docks 

we should advise the tourist to take an outside seat upon the 
tramway 'bus that runs upon the line of rails along the dock 
property north and south. The system of docks which line the 
Mersey begins at the Herculaneum Graving Dock, at the extreme 
south end of the town. From the southern point of the Hercu- 
laneum Dock to the northern part of the Carriers Dock, at the 
other end of the system, the distance is about six miles. The 
whole intermediate space is filled with docks and quays, in some 
cases two deep, in one case three deep. 

The original of all the spacious docks which now receive the 
shipping of Liverpool was the Pool, a sheet of water filling the 
space now occupied by the Custom House. In 1 700 this Pool was 
opened under the name of "The Dock," now spoken of as the 
"Old Dock." It maybe of historical interest to mention that 
the ' 'Marlborough " was the first vessel docked in Liverpool. The 
"Old Dock" was closed and filled up in 1826. The older of 
the existing docks were opened at the following dates : — 



Canning Dock . . . 171 7 

Salthouse ,, ... 1734 

George's ,, ... 1771 

King's „ . .1788 



Queen's Dock . . . 179b 

Brunswick Dock ) Q 

Queen's Basin f * * l8ir 

Prince's Half-Tide Basin . 18 16 



246 LOXDOX AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

At the 
* Herculaneum Graving Docks, 

at the south end of Liverpool, is a wet basin and hydraulic tower, 
and two dry basins, that will receive six ships at one time for 
repairs. Abutting on this are the premises of the Liverpool Ship- 
building Company (Limited), which employs a thousand men. 
Proceeding northward, on the left is an unenclosed space, covered 
with piles of timber to the amount of tens of thousands of tons, 
chiefly deal, from North America and the Baltic. Men may be 
seen actively engaged in unloading vessels through holes pierced 
in the cut-water. This was formerly the only spot for the timber 
trade, now the Canada Dock at the north end of Liverpool is 
almost exclusively engaged in this business. 

Proceeding northward, the tourist passes the Brunswick 
Docks, which have a quay space of 1,577 yards, observing, 
after passing the Coburg Docks, that the business of the 
Queen's is chiefly in cotton, corn, and dyewoods. The Wap- 
ping warehouses now claim notice. Standing near to a dock 
of the same name, they store cotton, jute, and a variety of other 
commercial substances. Nearer the Mersey, but hidden 
from sight, is the King's Dock and warehouses, in which 
are stored and bonded immense quantities of leaf-tobacco and 
cigars. On the 7th February, 1844, these warehouses con- 
tained 15,808 hogsheads, 1,368 bales, 1,313 small casks and 
cases of unmanufactured tobacco, besides many tons of cigars. 
This is the only dock in which the tobacco trade is allowed. 
The warehouses are let to the Government by the Dock Board, 
at an annual rental of ,£4,000. The whole is vigilantly guarded 
by the officers of the Inland Revenue department. Formerly, 
all tobacco on which the duty was not paid by the importer 
was burnt in the " King's Tobacco-pipe," a huge kiln built for 
the purpose. It is now utilised for commercial purposes. The 
Salthouse Dock is so called because salt works formerly existed 
on the site. They were removed to Garston. The Albeit Dock 
lies between the Salthouse and the river, and is surrounded by a 
splendid set of warehouses. This dock was opened by H. R. H. 
Prince Albert, in 1845, and cost the sum of ^499,882 15s. 9c!. 
net. It is used for general shipping purposes. 

Passing, on the right, the block of buildings occupied by the 
Custom House and Inland Revenue staffs, and on the left the 
Canning Dock, Half-Tide Dock and Graving Dock, the tourist 
is shortly abreast of the George's Dock. This dock, opened in 
1 77 1, was rebuilt and widened from 1822 to 1825, when it was 
again opened. On the south side, the visitor will observe a small 
building, known as the Seamen's Bethel. It is used as a church for 
mariners, in place of an old hulk, formerly an 18-gun sloop of 



war, which was moored near the spot. On the east side are 
imported goods of various kinds ; on the north and west, manu- 
factured goods for exportation. 

Passing the site of George's basin, now filled up to allow the 
junction of the two landing-stages, the tourist enters an enclosed 
space, and will observe Prince's Dock on the left. This dock 
was completed in the year 1821, at a cost of ^56,159. Vessels 
from South America, North America, and China, use this dock. 
Entering it at the northern end, a long vista of vessels will be 
observed on the right, lying close alongside the quay, with beams 
and planks of wood lashed firmly together, forming gangways to 
the decks of the vessels. Among the multitude of goods being 
shipped may be noticed bags of nails, spades, shovels, forks, 
railway bars, wheels and axles of railway carriages, coils of iron 
wire, heaps of cast-iron three-legged pots, immense cast-iron 
cauldrons, from three feet to twenty feet in diameter, bar-iron 
and sheet-iron of all shapes and sizes, chains, anchors, roofs, 
doors, cushions, and all sorts of fittings for railway carriages, 
packed up in cases, immeasurable bales and boxes of goods from 
Manchester, boxes of wines, spirits, and casks of Bass's East 
India pale ale, machinery, and iron fittings without end. On 
all sides the clash of iron, the tramp of horses, the shouts of 
sailors are to be heard. The scene at the south end is much the 
same, but as soon as the west sheds are entered the character 
changes. Here they are discharging the cargoes of wheat, rye, 
dye woods, hides, cotton, jute, and other raw material, the food 
of our manufacturing mills. Sugar, too, in its unrefined state, 
and Indian corn, flour, etc. , are often discharged here. 

Passing the Prince's Half-Tide Dock, the tourist may next 
enter the Waterloo Dock, and will notice three immense fire 
and rat proof blocks of warehouses, quite new. They are built 
of brick, with stone, iron, and composite fittings ; the floors are 
of cement. They are four storeys high, and supported on stone 
arches, and range round three sides of the Waterloo Dock East. 
In the centre of the central block is to be seen a horizontal steam- 
engine of 370 horse-power, from the works of Sir John Ann- 
strong, Newcastle-on-Tyne. It is used for driving elaborate 
machinery by which corn is lifted into the highest floor, and 
then carried by immense revolving gutta-percha bands to any 
part of the warehouse. At the entrance to the Prince's Half- 
tide Basin is the dock-master's house and an hydraulic tower. 
The water, pumped into this tower by steam, affords a pressure 
of yoolbs. to the square inch. With this pressure and the 
assistance of machinery, the dock gate-man can, by moving a 
handle, open or shut the immense flood-gates of the dock. 

The next dock northward is the Victoria, and then follow 



248 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

the Trafalgar and Clarence Docks, both much frequented by 
steamboats, the latter by the Waterford, Belfast, and Dublin 
boats. The Clarence Graving Dock has two basins, each 
capable of accommodating three vessels of large tonnage. The 
Salisbury, Collingwood, and Stanley Docks lie one behind the 
other, the first being nearest the river Mersey. A clock -tower 
marks the entrance. A chain of five locks connects the Stanley 
Dock with the Leeds Canal. The Nelson Dock, opened 1848, 
communicates with the Salisbury and Bramley-Moore Docks, 
and is used by steamships for the West Indies and Pacific, the 
Mediterranean, and also by the Cork Steamship Company's 
boats for Antwerp, Rotterdam, and Hamburg. 

The Bramley-Moore Dock is frequented by steamships trading 
to the Brazils, River Plate, China, etc. An arched causeway 
extends along the east side of this dock, and also of the Welling- 
ton Dock. Small steamers and sailing ships, which take coals 
for cargo, come alongside — to be loaded by huge iron cranes, 
able to lift a truck load off the rails, lower it into the hold of the 
ship, raise it, and place it on its carriage, the whole being done 
in the space of five minutes. The Wellington Dock accommo- 
dates the steamships of the National and Montreal Companies. 

On the east side of the Sandon Docks steamships of large 
burden unload their cargoes ; the west and north sides are used 
for vessels refitting and repairing. A monster steam crane is 
stationed on the east side, and used for lifting boilers and large 
pieces of machinery in and out of vessels. The Graving Dock 
contains six basins, lined with granite, the dimensions of each 
basin being as follows : — Length, 565ft. ; width, from 45ft. to 70ft. ; 
depth, 25ft. 

Northward of, and opening from the Sandon Basin, is the 
Huskisson Dock. It affords lineal quay space of 939 yards ; 
while it has two branches, running in an easterly direction, for 910 
yards and 890 yards respectively. The total quay space afforded 
by the dock is thus 2, 739 yards. Its branches are sufficiently spacious 
to accommodate the largest steamers. At the north-westerly corner 
of the Huskisson Dock is the New Battery, mounting very heavy 
artillery, and, with the Rock Battery on the opposite side of the 
Mersey, commanding the entrance of the river. Still further 
northward of the dock last referred to, and in double communi- 
cation with it, and also by independent gates with the Mersey, 
is the Canada Dock, one of the most recent triumphs of the 
shipping enterprise of Liverpool. It has a water area of 17 
acres, 4,043 yards. The passages which connect it with the 
Huskisson Docks are respectively eighty feet and fifty feet wide. 
Northward is the Canada Lock, by which the dock is in direct 
communication with the sea. Landward of this sheet of water is 



the Canada Half-Tide Dock, with a water area of 4 acres 
84 yards. Still further to the eastward from the Half-Tide 
Dock are two long narrow docks, 180 yards long, used for 
the carrying trade. These are respectively 140 and 100 feet 
wide. The Half-Tide Dock is also in communication with the 
Canada Dock. The latter has on its eastern side a sloping quay, 
for the convenience of the large timber trade done on this dock. 
Again to the northward of the Carrier Docks is a large area, en- 
closed as a dockyard, beyond which is a timber yard, with a width 
of 700 feet. To the west of this space and between it and the sea- 
wall is an area of 65 acres, to be used as a floating timber dock. 

By two subterranean approaches from Edge Hill, burrowing 
under the busiest parts of Liverpool, the London and North- 
western Railway is able by its Waterloo and Crosbie Street sta- 
tions to both feed and be fed by the system of enormous docks 
which line the Mersey. The Waterloo station finds an exit in the 
Waterloo Road, adjoining the Victoria and Waterloo Docks. The 
Crosbie Street station impinges on the Wapping Dock. At both 
of these are extensive and convenient warehouses for heavy goods. 
The tunnel by which the latter is connected with other parts of the 
system is 2,250 yards in length, 22 feet in breadth, and 16 feet 
in height. Cattle trains are loaded by means of an inclined 
plane at the St. James Street end of the station yard. Thus 
these two Liverpool goods stations are splendidly situated, and are 
able to command, as no other railway can, the extensive and 
wide-reaching business which flows through the port of Liverpool. 

A few statistics may present the accommodation which Liver- 
pool presents for the transaction of business in a more striking 
form : — ■ 

Miles. Yards. 
Total quay space of Liverpool docks . . 17 1,053 
„ ,, Liverpool basins . . 1 653 

Total ...... 18 1,706 

Acres. Yards. Feet. 

Total water area of Liverpool docks . . . 267 1,367 o 

Total length of floor of Liverpool graving docks o 9,825 o 

Water area of the Corporation dock and others .11 170 o 

Closely connected with commercial prosperity of Liverpool, 
are the landing-stages about to be described. 

George's Landing-Stage. 

This commodious and important part of the commercial 
arrangements of Liverpool, together with the much larger 
Prince's Landing- Stage, with which it was being connected, 
was almost completely destroyed by a disastrous fire. Active 
steps were, however, taken to replace these necessary additions 



LIVERPOOL. 251 



to this flourishing port, and the whole has now resumed its 
normal appearance of ceaseless activity. 

Here the stranger could behold the ships of all nations, designs, 
and sizes, from the Atlantic steamer, so beautifully and perfectly 
constructed, to the poor barge, a not yet extinct vestige of a past 
age. Looking across the river he sees Birkenhead, "the city 
of the future," pregnant with life and energy. The landing-stage 
was erected from the design of Sir William Cubitt, at a cost of 
^£60,000, and opened for traffic on 1st of June, 1847. It was about 
500 feet long and seventy feet wide, running parallel with George's 
Pier, at a distance of 150 feet, and crossed by two swing bridges, 
north and south. It was moored on a number of transverse pon- 
toons, and surrounded by chains, the object of which was to afford 
succour to the drowning. It afforded accommodation for several 
thousand persons, and, as it rose and fell with the tide, the 
bridges by which it is connected with the pier head obeyed its 
motion. Eight river steamers could discharge their passengers 
at the same time. A covered portion gave protection from in- 
clement weather, and waiting and refreshment rooms provided 
for the wants of passengers at the north and south end of the 
stage. 

We have already cursorily mentioned the 

Custom House and General Post Office, 

at the junction of Strand Street and Wapping. In it are 
comprised the several Government offices of customs, stamps 
and excise, the post office, and the offices of the dock com- 
mittee. The old Custom House, pulled down in 1837, 
occupied a site now built over by the Goree Piazza. The 
foundation of the present structure was laid in 1828. Of its 
design, which is severe Classical Greek, Mr. Picton, an architect, 
says, " Each front, except the one on which the sun shines, has 
an advanced portico, with a pediment ; each wing has a recessed 
portico ; pilasters, or antse, break round the angles ; and these 
arrangements, with windows few and far between, constitute the 
design. It is a double cross, foot to foot, the extreme length of 
which, from east to west, is 466 feet seven inches, the central 
portion being 252 feet six inches. The breadth of the centre is 
ninety-five feet, and the depth of the wings is ninety-four feet 
four inches, the area of the building being 6,700 square yards." 
In the centre is a noble dome, the windows of which admit light 
into the long room, a spacious apartment, measuring 146 feet 
long, seventy feet wide, and forty-five feet in height. Below 
this building are extensive vaults for the storing of goods in bond, 
under the supervision of Government officials. The edifice 
stands in Canning Place, and to its east is 



252 LOXDOX AXD XORTH-WESTERX GUIDE. 



The Sailors' Home, 

a red sandstone structure, in the Elizabethan style. Its 
foundation-stone was laid July 31st, 1846, by his Royal Highness 
Prince Albert, on which occasion there were great rejoicings. 
It was built by Tomkinson, from designs by Cunningham, at a 
cost of ^30,000, and was opened in December, 1850. The 
interior hall measures ninety-two feet long by thirty-two feet 
wide at one end, and nine feet six inches at the other. The 
whole building is now constructed of iron, brick, and stone, with 
a slight sprinkling of wood. On the night of April 29th, i860, 
it was gutted completely by fire, and the stone-work on the 
north-west angle slightly damaged. The insurance on the 
building at that time amounted only to ^"10,000. The interior 
was refitted with ornamental ironwork, and the building re- 
opened April 2 1st, 1862. The central hall is lighted by a glass 
roof, seventy feet above the floor, and on looking upward four 
galleries are to be seen, reaching all round the building. The 
sailors' cabins or bunks are reached by means of flights of stairs 
communicating with these galleries, and are arranged in blocks 
of four, eight feet by five feet, and seven feet high. There are 
hydraulic lifts for conveying the sailors' chests, etc., to the 
various galleries. There are offices for signing articles and for 
being paid off. There is the common hall in which the men can 
read, smoke, and play chess or draughts. There is also a read- 
ing-room, a bank of deposit, and another bank established by 
the Board of Trade. All moneys deposited here have an interest 
of three per cent., and can be drawn at any port free of cost. 
There is a school for the study of navigation, daily, morning, and 
evening prayers, and services on Sunday, conducted by the 
chaplain. The Local Marine Board has its offices here. 

Leaving the Home, and journeying by Hanover Street and 
Ranelagh Street, we enter Lime Street, through Ranelagh 
Place, and arrive at our hotel after a good day's work at sight- 
seeing. 



Among the other objects of interest in Liverpool are the 
following. The list does not include any of the numerous places 
of worship, our limits precluding even an enumeration of them ; 
and in the subjoined catalogue we have merely noticed the more 
prominent buildings, etc., and made no attempt at classifying 
them. We have arranged them alphabetically for the con- 
venience of reference. Tourists wishing further information will 
do well to consult Shaw's Shilling Guide, already referred to : — 

The Blue-Coat Hospital and School was founded in 1709, 
through the exertions ot Bryan Blundell, Esq. It is a large 



LIVERPOOL. 253 



building of brick, with stone dressings, and has two large pro- 
jecting wings. At first, it only accommodated fifty, but now 
350 children — 100 girls and 250 boys — are fed, clothed, and 
educated gratuitously. The children are admitted — orphans 
at eight, and fatherless at nine years of age — and maintained 
until the boys are fourteen, when they are provided with a trade 
or situation in which they can get a living. The girls remain in 
until they are sixteen, and are then placed in situations. Ans- 
dell, the celebrated animal painter, received his education here ; 
his scene of the board-room has been engraved. Many of the 
former scholars are now prosperous merchants. 

The Botanic Gardens, in Edge Lane, near the Edge- Hill rail- 
way station, are well worth visiting. A day may be pleasantly 
and profitably spent in strolling about them and admiring the 
various productions of nature which abound there. The gardens 
are the property of the corporation, and are open free at all times. 
The greenhouses and library, too, are free, under certain conditions, 
which may be learned from the authorities. 

The Branch Bank of England, a handsome Doric edifice of 
stone, is in Castle Street. Payments to and from London are 
effected without charge. 

The Collegiate Institution, situate in Shaw Street, is an im- 
posing structure of red sandstone. It was built from designs of 
the late Harvey Lonsdale Elmes, the architect of St. George's 
Hall. The late Earl of Derby, when Lord Stanley, laid the 
foundation-stone, October, 1840, and the inaugural address was 
delivered by the Right Honourable W. E. Gladstone, January, 
1843, m the presence of an immense concourse, the Bishop 
of Chester in the chair. The edifice cost upwards of ^"20,000, 
and has a frontage of 280 feet, the style being Tudor. There 
are appliances in this institution for the education of 1,500 
boys, and several university exhibitions are open to its scholars. 

The Corn Exchange, in Brunswick Street, is a commodious, 
substantial, and elegant building, erected in 1808, and re-erected 
and enlarged in 1853 from designs by J. C. Picton, F.S.A. Its 
extent may be judged by the following figures : — Length 100 
feat; breadth, 98 feet ; height, 35 feet. The cost of the building, 
not including the site, was £1 1,000. Much energy, intellect, and 
capital is invested in the corn-trade of this port. Some idea of 
the immense business done may be gleaned by a visit to the 
Waterloo Dock, where may be seen the vast warehouses erected 
by the Dock Board and leased to the Port of Liverpool Corn 
and Grain Warehousing Company. They are capable of storing 
165,000 quarters of corn, and the machinery will lift from the ves- 
sels and put into its destination 350 tons weight of corn per hour. 

The Corporation Baths are located in a chaste plain building 



on the quay. The walls are rusticated, and the roof projects so 
as to form two piazzas. The swimming-bath for gentlemen, at 
the northern end of the building, measures 46 feet by 27 feet ; that 
for ladies, at the opposite extremity, is 39 feet by 27 feet. Cold, 
warm, and tepid baths, with elegant appointments, are always 
ready. An illuminated clock, in a tower over the centre of the 
building, is a conspicuous object. 

Compton House, in Church Street, is a gigantic palace of 
commerce, erected in the Classical Italian style, by Messrs. 
Haigh and Co.; it cost ^250,000. A portion of the building is 
now used as an hotel. 

Everton Hill is noted for that toothsome sweet, Everton toffee, 
to which it gives its name. Close to it are the stupendous 
reservoirs, erected by the Liverpool corporation to supplement 
the water supply. The tops of the reservoirs form an agreeable 
walk. Everton Church is a commodious edifice, built in 18 14 ; 
from its tower most extended views can be obtained, embracing 
the hills of Derbyshire, Shropshire, Cheshire, Lancashire, West- 
moreland, Cumberland, and Yorkshire. On a .fine evening, 
the hills of the Isle of Man can be made out. 

Kirkdale Gaol has accommodation for five hundred prisoners, 
and, with the Model Gaol at Walton, is worthy of special notice 
from those who desire to turn their visit to practical account. 

The Kirkdale Industrial Bagged SchooL built in 1861, pro- 
vides education and employment for 550 boys and girls ; 120 
children are clothed and fed. 

Knowsley Hall, the magnificent seat of the Earl of Derby, should 
be visited by the tourist. Till lately it contained an exceedingly 
valuable museum of natural history and a menagerie, collected 
principally by Dr. Thomas Whitfield during a long residence at 
Sierra Leone. Part of the menagerie and the stuffed collection of 
animals was bequeathed to Liverpool ; some of the animals, 
especially the elands, were removed to the Zoological Gardens, 
London. The Stanley portraits are here, from the first earl, 
Henry VII. 's father-in-law. 

Liverpool Institute and Queen's College, in Mount Street, 
was opened by Thomas Wyse, Esq., M.P., on September 15th, 
1837, its first stone having been laid by Lord Brougham, on 
July 20th, 1835. Its theatre is used for lectures upon philosophi- 
cal, scentific, and literary subjects ; the library includes many 
thousand volumes ; and the schools for boys are probably among 
the most extensive unsectarian educational establishments in the 
kingdom. Queen's College, founded in 1857, is in connection 
with the London University. 

The National Bank of Liverpool is a new building of white 
freestone, at the junction of Castle Street and James's Street. Its 



style is Romanesque, of a very florid description ; and it forms a 
most pleasing object from every point of view. 

Newsham Park, on the road to West Derby, was purchased 
by the corporation in 1846. The ornamental water and round 
pond, for sailing model boats, are attractive features of the 
grounds, which on fine summer evenings are crowded with 
pleasure-seekers. 

The Parochial Industrial Schools are a magnificent pile of 
•buildings, in Kirkdale. They were erected in 1845, by the 
select vestry, with a view of teaching the children of paupers, 
not only reading, writing, and arithmetic, but useful industry, to 
enable them to raise themselves above pauperism. The premises 
occupy eighteen acres of land, part of which is cultivated as a 
kitchen garden by the elder boys. Twelve hundred children, 
between the ages of three and fourteen years, find here a healthy 
and a happy home. The boys are taught various trades, and 
the girls are trained to domestic duties. Strangers are not 
admitted, except by an order from the parochial authorities. 

The Philharmonic Kail, a concert room in Hope Street, is a 
noble and commodious building, in the Italian style of architec- 
ture. Its internal arrangements are Grecian ; and it is admirably 
adapted for the purpose for which it was intended. The cost of 
the building was about ^30,000. There is accommodation for 
more than two thousand persons. The orchestra is at the east 
end ; it will contain three hundred performers. 

Prince's Park was formerly a portion of the Royal Toxteth 
Park ; it passed from the Crown into the hands of the Earl of 
Derby, and still later belonged to the Earl of Sefton. Mr. 
Gates purchased this portion from the latter nobleman for 
,£50,000 and presented it to the corporation. An obelisk of 
red granite, near the entrance to the park, perpetuates his 
memory. Earl Sefton contributed^ 1,000 to the cost of laying 
out the grounds, which are adorned with lakes, well stocked 
with water-fowl, bridges, flower-beds, etc. • 

The Boyal Infirmary, with the Lock Hospital and Lunatic 
Asylum attached, occupies a noble Grecian structure in Daulbry 
Street. It cost ^27,800, and alterations and additions from 
time to time have swelled that sum to ,£35,000. The institution, 
which dates from 1749, and formerly occupied the site of St. 
George's Hall, is a model one in every respect. 

The Royal Institution in Colquit Street was commenced in 18 14 
and opened in 1 8 1 7. A royal charter was obtained in 1 822. There 
are many objects of interest and curiosity, tastefully arranged in 
the interior, and the museum is well worthy of inspection. 

Stanley Park belongs to the corporation. This body is said 
to have laid out the sum of ;£i 50,000 in purchasing the land, 



256 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

planting shrubs and trees, erecting bridges, lodges, etc. It was 
opened in 1870. An ornamental piece of water, flower-beds, 
grass-plots, and walks, and drives are the features which make 
this a very beautiful park, conjoined with the extensive views 
to be obtained from it of the sea and the hills of Cumberland, 
Westmoreland, and Yorkshire. 

The St. James's Cemetery demands a short notice. Formerly 
a stone quarry, and granted by the corporation for this purpose, 
but little trace of such an origin can be discovered in this now 
tasteful and silent abode of the dead. It was fitted for its pur- 
pose at an expense of ^20, 000. Memorial art is seen on all 
hands. The object which more particularly attracts the attention 
of the traveller is the Mausoleum of Huskisson. This lamented 
politician died by an accident, which unfortunately occurred 
whilst present at the opening ceremonies of the Liverpool and 
Manchester Railway. The case is of white freestone, and the 
light is admitted through the dome that protects the statue. 
This dome is supported by fluted Corinthian columns, and is 
surm ounted by a cross. The entrance doors are panelled with 
plate-glass, through which the statue can be very well seen. 
The statue is by Gibson. The Oratory is another object worth 
notice ; it is a piece of Greek, in pure style. The mound cast 
up in 1766 on the west side and planted with trees, at the ex- 
pense of the corporation, is a pleasant promenade. 

St. James's Market was erected by the corporation at a cost 
of £13,662, and contains 3,000 square yards. It is quiet and 
respectable, and not so animated as St. John's (see page ). 

Sefton Park, adjoining Prince's Park, contains 400 acres, 
purchased at a cost of ^450,000 from Earl Sefton. It contains 
an extensive lake, of bold and picturesque design. This lake is 
fed by a stream proceeding from an artificial rockery and cascade. 
Sefton Park is the largest belonging to the town, and is a 
favourite place of public resort and recreation. 

Shiel Park, in West Derby Road, is laid out in clumps of 
dwarf woods and evergreens, with a spacious area of grass for 
public recreation. 

Wavertree Park adjoins the Botanic Gardens. It is a large 
open space of ground, belonging to the corporation, and is 
ornamented with a fountain and lake, etc. 

The Workhouse, on Brownlow Hill, is a brick structure in the 
Elizabethan style. Since its original erection in 1770, it has 
undergone repeated alterations and enlargements, and is now the 
largest building of the kind in the kingdom ; it will accom- 
modate between three and four thousand paupers. The Parish 
Offices facing it were completed in 1850. Any respectable per- 
son can inspect the workhouse, on application to the governor. 



EGREMONT—NEW BRIGHTON. 257 



EXCURSION VIII. 
LIVERPOOL TO NEW BRIGHTON, EGREMONT, Etc. 

THE tourist should not leave Liverpool without visiting New 
Brighton, the Gravesend of the port. The excursion is 
commenced at the George's Landing-stage, by taking a seat 
on board one of the commodious New Brighton ferry-boats. 
Steaming down towards the mouth of the river, the object." 
of interest which attract us are manifold. The view on both 
sides of the river will interest the visitor. That on the Lan- 
cashire side includes docks, warehouses, shipping, etc. on the 
Cheshire side, pretty residences, beautifully situated and nicely 
kept. Arriving at 

EgT6moiit, 

a marine village lying about two miles to the N.N.W. of Bir- 
kenhead, the abodes of many Liverpool merchants will attract 
the eye. Passing the Masked Battery, the steamer lands pas- 
sengers at the 

New Brighton Pier and Promenade, 

an iron structure 560 feet long, which cost £27,000 to erect. 
The height from the water to the main deck is fifty feet at the 
east end, and twenty feet at the west end. The tower is sixty 
feet above the main deck, which is seventy-five feet wide, 
but at the larger recess 130 feet. The saloon is ninety feet 
long, by eighteen feet wide, and thirteen feet six inches high. 
The saloon, with the ladies' retiring room, and the first and 
second class refreshment rooms, measure 180 feet in length. 
In addition to these there are two wind screens, panelled 
with plate-glass, giving protection and freedom of sight at 
the same time. The deck is lighted by seventy lamps and 
decorated with 160 flags. The upper promenade is 180 feet long 
and twenty feet wide, above which is a smaller deck or look-out, 
fifteen feet long and the same in width. The view from the 
second and third deck is very extensive and varied. Ships 
twenty miles out at sea can be distinctly discerned. Formby 
Point and lighthouse, Crosby, Waterloo, Bootle, the whole line 
of the Liverpool docks, and the Overton Hills, all pass before 
us like a grand panoramic view. The whole structure is sup- 
ported by 200 circular iron columns, let into the solid rock and 
firmly braced together, offering little resistence to the tide. 
There is seat accommodation for over 2,000 persons on the pier. 



A band discourses sweet sounds every day but Sunday from 
ii a.m to 8 p.m. 
Another object which calls for attention is the 

Rock Battery, 

a massive structure of red sandstone, covering a space of nearly 
4,000 yards, and mounting sixteen large cannon, besides others in 
the embrasures of the towers. A drawbridge connects it with the 
mainland ; it being surrounded by water at high-tide. The 

Rock Lighthouse 

close by is worth a visit. The reflectors and lights revolve 
once every minute by clockwork, which may be examined by the 
tourist. 

Three miles to the westward are the Red Rocks. A charming 
view of the country may be obtained from the roof of Leasowe 
Castle, the residence of Colonel Sir Edward Cust. The castle 
is a fine old building, situated between the rivers Dee and Mersey. 
It was once the seat of the Egerton family. About a quarter of 
a mile from the castle is a lighthouse, showing a fixed bright 
light. 

Leaving Leasowe, a fine prospect may be obtained by return- 
ing over Bidston Hill, upon which is erected a lighthouse and 
observatory. Here may be seen the wide estuaries of the Dee 
and the Mersey. Birkenhead lies at the foot of the hill. We 
have a front view of Liverpool, and can easily distinguish its 
prominent buildings. To the west can be seen the counties of 
Flintshire and Denbighshire, and many of the Welsh hills. The 
lighthouse, erected in 1771, burns a fixed bright light. Descend- 
ing the hill, and passing the Halfpenny Bridge at the end of 
Wallasey Pool, Birkenhead is reached, from whence Liverpool 
can be gained by the ferry. 



EXCURSION IX. 
LIVERPOOL TO EASTHAM. 

IN making the excursion to Eastham, by the excellent ferry 
steamers, the traveller will have an opportunity of passing 
in review the many objects of interest which present themselves 
when starting from the George's Landing-stage for a trip up the 
river. The view is very extensive, bringing before the eye 



EASTHAM. 259 

scenery embracing Garston, Runcorn, and the Overton Hills. 
Passing the guard-ship, the Conivay, a training ship for young 
gentlemen about to make the mercantile marine service a 
profession, the Akbar and the Clarence, training ships 
for poor lads, and the Indefatigable, a training ship for the 
sons of sailors, two powder hulks and a vast number of flats, 
schooners, brigs, brigantines, ships, tug-boats, and other craft 
navigating the wide waters of the Sloyne, as the Mersey in its 
widest parts is called, we reach Eastham. The sloping woods 
hanging over the waters of the Mersey have a most pleasing 
appearance ; all at once the picturesque ferry, the end of the 
trip, bursts into view, with the charm of a fairy scene. The hotel, 
the lawns, the flower-beds at the ferry, the monkeys, the arbours, 
the woods, ferns, and beautiful glimpses of the Mersey, here at its 
widest, make Eastham one of the pleasantest of the pleasure 
resorts of Liverpool. A promenade runs from the pier to the 
Rock Ferry Pier, a most agreeable walk. 



SECTION XX. 

LIVERPOOL TO LONDON, via CREWE, STAFFORD, BIR- 
MINGHAM, COVENTRY, RUGBY, AND WATFORD. 

HAVING thus noticed the principal objects of interest in 
Liverpool and its immediate neighbourhood, we now 
purpose sketching the route to London which heads this section. 
It may not be necessary to inform the tourist that this is not the 
direct mail line, as followed by the mail and express trains from 
Liverpool. The old main line left the present route at Stafford, 
and touching at Wolverhampton, Birmingham, and intermediate 
stations, again joined the existing main line at Rugby. The Trent 
Valley Line, connecting with the old route at Stafford and Rugby, 
is now the line pursued by quick through trains to and from Holy- 
head, Chester, Liverpool, Manchester, Scotland, and London. 
The tourist wishing to proceed direct from Liverpool to London, 
a run the average length of which is five hours, will conse- 
quently not pass through much of the district described in this 
section, but will leave the route as indicated in the heading at 
Stafford and again join it at Rugby. The tourist, desiring tc 
pursue the route described in this section, will do well to book 
to Birmingham, when leaving Liverpool. We start from the 



26o LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 



Lime Street Station, 

the terminus of the original Liverpool and Manchester line. It 
was found necessary in 1865 to enlarge this station, and the work 
was carried on in such a manner that the constant stream of traffic 
was neither hindered nor imperilled. Upwards of a hundred yards 
of the solid rock had to be cut away from the original mouth of 
the tunnel by which access is gained to the station ; Gloucester 
Street had to be materially altered, a large number of houses 
to be taken down, and a church (St. Simon's) removed and re- 
built. Four capacious platforms were constructed — two for the 
up and two for the down trains. The roof is formed of twenty 
principals, stretching across the station in one span of 223 feet ; 
the height from its apex to the rails is seventy-five feet, and its 
entire length is 385 feet. With one exception, it is the largest 
of a single span in the world. It is covered with very substan- 
tial glass, giving light and cheerfulness to the whole, while ven- 
tilation and the escape of steam and gas have been amply pro- 
vided for. To enable our readers to judge of the enormous 
traffic accommodated by this station, we may add that there are 
two hundred and ten trains in and out daily, while the number 
of passengers is estimated at between eleven and twelve thousand. 
Already the increase of the traffic has been so considerable as to 
render a still further enlargement of the station indispensable. 
The necessary works are in progress ; when they are completed, 
the station will afford nearly double the accommodation it does 
at the present time. 

The tunnel already alluded to, through which we pass imme- 
diately on leaving Lime Street station, is a mile and a quarter 
in length ; it is twenty feet wide and sixteen feet high. Imme- 
diately at its western mouth is 

Edge Hill, 

the first station on the line. Over the tunnel are the thickly- 
inhabited streets of Liverpool. Two other tunnels convey goods 
to and from the Waterloo Street and Wapping stations, abut- 
ting on the system of docks which line the Mersey, already 
alluded to on pages 245-9. A third line, to the most northernly 
docks, puts the London and North-Western Railway in a position 
to carry goods to and from all the docks in Liverpool. Passing 
several smaller stations, including Allerton and Halewood, and 
following the line of the north shere of the Mersey, we arrive at 

Ditton, 

where are situated many alkali and other important chemical 
works. The line now curves towards the famous and majesti: 



RUNCORN— WINSFORD AND NORTIIIVICIL 261 

Runcorn Viaduct, a structure already described on pages 232-3, 
which the traveller traverses in gaining the southern shore of the 
Mersey at 

Runcorn, 

an inland port with a population of close upon 12,443. By this 
important bridge over the Mersey the distance between Liver- 
pool and London is shortened by nine miles. From hence to 
Crewe, the line passes through an important part of the great salt 
mining districts of Cheshire, a most interesting, though, as far its 
external aspects are concerned, not very inviting district. The 
principal seats of the manufacture of salt are 

Winsford and Northwich, 

which produce most of the salt for home consumption and 
foreign exportation. Some idea may be gathered relative to the 
trade in this condiment from the following official figures : — 
During five years, from 1842 to 1846, more than a million tons 
and a half were exported ; between 1852 and 1856 the quantity 
rose to nearly three million tons ; while between 1867 and 187 1 
no less than 4,011,659 tons were exported. At the same time 
the home consumption is proportionably large, and it is estimated 
that the total quantity of salt sent from the Cheshire districts 
alone is over 1,500,000 tons annually. 

Manufactured salt — that is, all other salt but rock salt, which is 
quarried like coal — is produced from brine or salt water, obtained 
by the flowing of fresh water through the underlying beds of 
rock salt. When these salt springs are found, the brine is pumped 
up by steam-power, and conveyed by pumps into large shallow 
iron pans, varying from 40ft. to I ooft. in length, and from I oft. 
to 30ft. wide, and about 18 inches deep. It is there subjected 
to heat varying from ioo° Fah. to 22 5 boiling point, the former 
producing large grained salt, the latter that used for table 
purposes. 

The long- continued action of fresh water upon the beds of salt 
has thinned the deposits to such an extent that in some districts 
landslips and subsidences of the earth are common occurrences. In 
the valley of what was once Witton Mill and the River Weaver 
a large mere or lake has been formed ; its progress can be 
easily traced from time to time by referring to maps of the dis- 
trict published at different periods. At Winsford, this action of 
the salt springs has been sudden and surprising. For about two 
miles and a half in length, by one mile in breadth, the surface is 
gradually sinking. The canal near the front of the landslip has 
already gone down ten feet, and at the Winsford end the subsidence 



262 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

is backing down to the town. The Winsford docks have already 
gone down about ten feet, and the bridge over the Weaver has 
been more than once raised to give passage to boats. 

The buildings in all towns and villages in the salt districts 
suffer more or less from the subsidence of the land, but in no 
place is this more curiously shown than in Northwich. This 
little Cheshire town has a somewhat doleful aspect. Almost 
everything is out of the perpendicular or horizontal, as the 
case may be. A sober visitor, as he walks along the streets, 
might almost fancy he was suffering from some ocular delusion ; 
and indeed it would only be to a person in a state of inebriety 
that the place would look natural. The houses and buildings 
themselves look inebriated, and appear to be tumbling about like 
a set of drunken men. One is leaning forward and threatens to 
tumble into the street, while another is reeling backwards and 
suggests the possibility of its eventually falling into the back 
garden. Then you may see two houses, once divided by a narrow 
passage, which have subsided sideways towards each other, and 
both are apparently kept from falling by the mutual support they 
receive from the meeting of each other's roof; or two others, 
which once were in amicable and perpendicular relation to each 
other, apparently endeavouring, in a hostile spirit, to make the gap 
between them as wide as possible. In more than one place a 
main street has become widened by some feet, the line of houses 
having gradually and modestly withdrawn themselves some dis- 
tance from the road and pathway. A few years ago a steam- 
engine and eight men were swallowed up, and scarce a trace of 
the accident left, except the depression of the earth. A cottage 
and some women were similarly entombed, and where the building 
once stood there is now a pond, in which ducks swim happily. 
Accidents, however, involving loss of life very rarely happen. 

After leaving Runcorn, the tourist passes through Sutton 
Weaver and Acton, where the line to Warrington forms a junc- 
tion with that on which he is travelling, to Hartford, a village 
two miles from Northwich. The next station is Winsford, on 
either side of which the line passes through very fine scenery, 
much of which is lost to the traveller in consequence of the deep 
cuttings. Between this station and 

Minshull Vernon, 

we gain a sight, if the weather be clear, of the Derbyshire Hills, 
and, further on, of the hills of Cheshire. Continuing the journey, 
the country becomes less interesting ; but on the right the Welsh 
mountains may often be seen. Passing through a flat district, we 
at length arrive at 



Crewe 

[Hotels : " Crewe Arms " and ' ' Royal "], 
a most important station on the London and North- Western 
system, and a junction where centre many great branches of 
the main line. From hence the trains running to Preston. 
Carlisle, and the north are despatched, via Warrington. To 
the north-west runs a branch serving Chester, the north of 
Wales, Holyhead, and the large Irish traffic which flows through 
that town. A branch running in a north-easternly direction 
serves Stockport, Manchester, Leeds, Bradford, York, and the 
north-east, a most extensive manufacturing district. To the south- 
west, a line tends to Shrewsbury, and serves the east and south 
of Wales ; whilst a short line running in almost a direct easternly 
course connects Crewe at Kidsgrove junction with the district of 
the Staffordshire Potteries, which centre at Burslem and Stoke. 
At Crewe station, the heavily-freighted mail and express trains 
which leave Euston Square are divided and despatched upon 
their several ways. Here also are situated stupendous and vast- 
reaching workshops, in which are constructed the company's 
engines and other plant ; the works are described at length on 
pages 19 to 42. 

Leaving Crewe, the line passes through pleasantly-wooded 
scenery to the next station, Betley Road. Crewe Hall, the seat 
of Lord Crewe, is seen overtopping the woods on the left. Be- 
tween Crewe and Stafford, we see four sets of rail in course of 
construction, the traffic having overgrown the facilities afforded 
by the original two lines. Between Betley Road and Madeley, 
we pass through the boundary of the counties Cheshire and Staf- 
fordshire, the latter being the seat of some of the most impor- 
tant manufactures of England. Before reaching Madeley, the 
line passes by a cutting through Bunker's Hill, and, nearer, 
through most delightful scenery. Continuing the journey, Whit- 
more and Standon Bridge are passed before reaching Norton 
Bridge. Between the two latter stations is Eccleshall, the seat 
of the bishops of Lichfield since the thirteenth century. It was 
here that Margaret of Anjou sought refuge after her flight from 
Blore Heath in 1459. The next stage of the journey is 

Stafford 

[Hotel : " North- Western "], 

an important junction and station. Here commences the Trent 
Valley loop line, now a part of the main line, which again 
joins our route, after passing Lichfield and Nuneaton, at Rugby. 
A line to the west puts Stafford in direct connection with Shrews- 



264 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

bury and Wales, via Newport and Wellington. A short line to the 
north-east connects this station with Uttoxeter. The population 
of Stafford is nearly 16,000 ; they chiefly occupy themselves in the 
manufacture of boots and shoes. Stafford Castle, the seat of 
Lord Stafford, is about one mile and a half distant; near it maybe 
seen the remains of the keep of an ancient castle built by Elfleda, 
Alfred's daughter, in the year 913, but afterwards improved by the 
Normans. The castle contains many ancient pieces of armour, 
chairs of Queen Bess, Charles II. 's bed, etc., and oil paint- 
ings of those two royal personages. It was in the Town Hall 
of Stafford that Judge Talfourd, who was born near the town, died 
while addressing the grand jury during the spring assizes of 1854. 
The notorious William Palmer was executed at Stafford 
County Gaol, a large building in the northern suburb, built 
1793, and recently enlarged. The County Asylum, near the town, 
occupies thirty acres of land. Coton Hill Institution, an asylum 
for the better class of insane persons, is a fine building about 
one mile to the east of Stafford. Izaak Walton, the father of 
angling, was born here in 1593. 

Leaving the direct line of route, the Trent Valley line, on 
our left, we pass to the right to visit Wolverhampton and Bir- 
mingham. The village ot 

Penkridge 

[Hotel : (t Lyttelton Arms "], 

at which we first arrive, has a population of 3,058. It has a large 
and handsome church, of curious black and white construction, 
in the market-place ; and Teddesley Park, the seat of Lord 
Hatherton, is about two miles to the north-east. 

Nothing of especial interest is seen until the train reaches the 
capital of the " Black Country," 

Wolverhampton. 

[Hotels : " Swan " " Star and Garter/' and " Alliance."] 

This important centre of the iron trade, with a busy population 
of nearly 70,000 inhabitants, is healthily situated on high ground. 
It is a town of considerable antiquity, and received its name from 
a monastery, founded by Wulfrana, sister to one of the Saxon 
kings. No traces of its ancient monastery can now be found. Its 
most venerable building is the collegiate church of St. Peter's, a 
remarkable structure of ancient Gothic character. In it, amongst 
others, is a monument of Colonel Lane, who, with his sister, 
assisted in the escape of Charles II., after the battle of Worcester, 
165 1 . In the church are also some ancient brasses, a curious font, 
and a stone pulpit, some 800 years old. In the churchyard may 



BIRMINGHAM. 265 



be seen a rudely-carved ancient cross 20 feet high. Among the 
special manufactures of Wolverhampton are tin plate goods, Japan 
ware, papier-mache, hinges, bolts, screws, etc. The most impor- 
tant is perhaps the manufacture of locks, of which 1,500,000 
dozens are made in Wolverhampton annually. 

The district lying between this and Birmingham (about 
twelve miles) teems with innumerable iron-works, blast fur- 
naces, coal and iron mines. If the journey be made by night, 
the tourist will observe thousands of twinkling points of fire, 
indicating the spots where industrious artisans are engaged 
in fashioning the mineral products of the district. For miles 
around it is the same, so that the appearance presented from 
the elevation of the railway is that of a vast city of forges. 
From Wolverhampton the line to Birmingham takes the tourist 
past stations the vicinities of which are of strong local character, 
but little general interest, including Deepfields, Tipton (where are 
large chemical works), Dudley Port, a busy junction, Old bury, 
Spon Lane (where the glass for Sir Joseph Paxton's triumph, the 
Hyde Park exhibition of 185 1, was made), and Smethwick. 

Birmingham. 

[Hotels : "North-Western," "Queen's," and " Hen and Chickens."] 
This, like most of the large manufacturing towns, has figured 
prominently in the domestic history of England, the inhabi- 
tants always ranging themselves on the side of civil and 
religious liberty. The number of its inhabitants at present is 
estimated at from 360,000 to 370,000, so that Birmingham is 
the fourth town in point of population in the kingdom. There 
is little to note in the history of Birmingham prior to the 
battle of Evesham, in the reign of Henry III., when the town 
sent a contingent to swell the force of the barons in the fight 
for liberty. In the later Civil War of 1641, Birmingham was 
consistently on the side of the Roundheads, supplied the Par- 
liamentary forces with arms, and despoiled Charles I. of his royal 
plate and furniture, which he left behind him when he inarched 
to London. Prince Rupert, the following year, revenged 
this act by plundering the town and setting fire to it in several 
places. The Priestley riots of 1791 marked an eventful period in 
European history, when the mob of Birmingham visited upon 
the head of Dr. Priestley their disapproval of the principles of 
the French revolution. Birmingham has only done justice to 
the memory of one of her greatest sons, eminent as a man of 
science (the discoverer of oxygen gas) and philanthropist, by 
recently erecting a statue of Dr. Priestley. The Reform Bill of 
1832 gave Birmingham a right to send representatives to the 
House of Commons. From its geographical position it has 



been called the "heart of England;" but its title of Bir- 
mingham is variously derived from Bromwicham, a com- 
pound of brom, heath, wych, village, and ham, home ; and 
from Bremenium, a Roman station situated on Icknield Street, 
one of the great Roman roads that intersected the country. 
From the earliest times the townsmen have been celebrated 
as manufacturers of various kinds. Tradition makes it the 
depot from which the ancient Britons drew their supplies of 
arms ; but the first authentic notice is found in the work of 
Leland, who says that "there be many smithes in the towne, 
that use to make knives and all manner of cutting tooles, and 
many lorimers that make bittes, and a great many naylors ; so 
that a great part of the towne is maintained by smithes." A 
few years later Camden wrote, " Bremicham, swarming with 
inhabitants, and echoing with the noise of anvils, for here are a 
great number of smiths." In the Civil War, 15,000 swords were 
furnished by Birmingham alone to the Parliamentary army ; 
though at the time of the Revolution it was still a small place, 
containing only 4,000 inhabitants. At that time there was no 
building in the town distinguished for architectural beauty. 
As the historian Hutton quaintly remarks, " She was com- 
paratively small in her size, homely in her person, and coarse 
in her dress ; her ornaments wholly of iron from her own 
forge." One hundred years ago Birmingham was not even on 
the mail-coach route, and letters were directed to the town as 
near Coleshill, a place of only 2,000 inhabitants, but having the 
advantage at that time of a position on the mail road. But such 
a description is no longer correct ; for the Birmingham of to-day 
will compare favourably with many towns, though of course the 
general appearance will always be that of a manufacturing town, 
and the chief attractions of Birmingham her various products in 
the iron, steel, brass, papier-mac^ and jewellery trades. A 
great impetus was given to the trade of Birmingham when 
Boulton erected the famous Soho factory, and Watts made it 
one of the sights of Europe by the invention and elaboration of 
the steam-engine. Birmingham has felt as much as any town 
the impetus given to trade and manufactures by the new motive 
power. Its population has largely increased, overflowing into 
Staffordshire and Worcestershire. Scarcely a street is without 
a manufactory and steam-engine, and the whole town is honey- 
combed with workshops, where artizans carry on the multifarious 
trades in metals for which Birmingham is famous. Its general 
appearance is mean, notwithstanding that several handsome public 
structures give evidence of its prosperity. One pleasant feature 
which will strike the tourist is the comfortable character of the 
houses inhabited by the working classes. 



BIRMINGHAM. 267 

A visit to the different manufactories, in Birmingham, 
forms the greatest attraction to the stranger. But even a 
close inspection of these will give but a poor idea of the 
amount of work done, because the majority of the Birming- 
ham workmen execute their tasks at home, or in small work- 
shops ; for steam machinery is but an auxiliary to skilled 
labour in the great proportion of " Brummagem " manufac- 
tures. Nearly everything that can be made of metal is made at 
Birmingham. It may be safely said that almost every human 
being in the world supplies some of his wants out of the industrial 
hive which Burke not inaptly styled the " toy-shop of Europe." 
The principal branches of business consist in the manfacture of plate 
and plated ware, ornamented steel goods, jewellery, japannery, 
papier-7nache, cut glass ornaments, steel-pens, buckles and but- 
tons, cast-iron vehicles, guns and pistols, steam-engines, toys, etc. , 
The brass trade has of late years become one of the most 
important in the town, giving employment to upwards of 
10,000 men. To form an idea of the different processes the 
tourist should visit the Cambridge Street works of Messrs. 
Winfield, and for ecclesiastical metal work the establishment 
of Messrs. Hardman and Co. 

Messrs. Elkington and Co.'s electro-plate works in New 
Hall Street should also be visited by the tourist desirous of 
obtaining information on the manufactures of Birmingham. 
These extensive premises are approached by an elaborately de- 
corated staircase, where at intervals are placed bronze statues, 
copies or replicas of those in the House of Lords. The show- 
rooms are large and commodious, and, like the staircase, are 
highly decorated. Works of art are here everywhere displayed 
— statues, trophies, vases, etc., in gold, silver, bronze, and electro- 
plate — the combined effect of which on entering is extremely 
brilliant and dazzling. Proceeding from thence through the 
studios, where artists are engaged in their various compartments, 
designing and modelling, the extensive and well-adapted work- 
shops are at length reached, which, being furnished with most 
approved and unique machinery, are extremely interesting. The 
Big Stamp, worked by steam, and an adaptation of the Nasmyth 
steam-hammer, in three blows executes as much work as it 
formerly took a workman a whole day to do ; yet, although it 
can strike a blow equal to twenty tons, the force can be so regu- 
lated that the shell of a nut can be cracked with it without injur- 
ing the kernel within. Smaller stamps are worked by manual 
power, and are used for lesser objects, such as handles, etc. Pas- 
sing from the stamps, the separate members are subjected to 
a hot soldering blast of gas. The plating rooms, which occupy 
a very important position in the works, are remarkably interesting. 



In one of these rooms is a huge galvanic battery, powerful enough 
to destroy a regiment of soldiers at one shock. The enamelling, 
a comparatively new process, is borrowed from the Japanese, but 
greatly developed by French artists, the work executed being 
exceedingly beautiful. The vase or other object is first fashioned 
in copper. The design is then worked in it in much the same 
way as in stained glass, each colour having its separate compart- 
ment ; it is then fired, and the process is repeated till the work 
is finished. 

A visit should also be paid to Messrs. Gillott's Steel-Pen 
Works, which occupy a large space fronting Graham Street. 
The process of making steel-pens, briefly stated, is as follows : — 
The steel from which the pens are made comes from Sheffield, in 
large sheets, and on arriving at Birmingham it is cut into strips 
about four inches wide, which, after being dipped in oil, are 
rolled again, until they acquire the requisite thinness and con- 
sistency. The pen-making machines are much the same in every 
case — stamps worked either by the foot or by hand. By division 
of labour, the work is passed from hand to hand, different opera- 
tives undertaking the cutting out from the sheet of steel of the 
blanks, the making of the holes, the slits, and the grinding, for which 
a most ingenious machine is used, invented by Mr. Gillott, for 
grinding the pens transversely and longitudinally ; most of the 
grinding, however, is done by girls. Then follows the process of 
annealing : the pens, being enclosed in little boxes, are exposed to 
great heat, after which they are plunged in cold water. Next 
comes the bronzing, a process which looks very much like that of 
coffee-roasting; and lastly, the selecting the "magnum bonums," 
school-pens, etc. , and all the infinite variety. There are also at 
work in the rooms a beautiful set of machines for making pen- 
holders, by the way, a not unimportant branch of Messrs. Gillotts' 
immense business. 

The Mint, too, which belongs to Messrs. Heaton, is worth 
inspection. The manufacture of glass, though but lately 
introduced, has become a most important trade. Messrs. 
Osier's establishment, where the famous crystal glass cande- 
labra in Ibrahim Pasha's palace at Cairo were made, is the 
most interesting, though the window and optical glass manu- 
factory of Messrs. Chance, the largest in the kingdom, will 
also repay the trouble of a visit. This trade gives employment 
to about 1,500 hands. The button trade, which is worked by 
6,000 artisans, is best seen in the workshops of Messrs. 
Hammond and Turner. The gun and sword-making trades 
form a great feature in the assemblage of Birmingham manu- 
factories. Sword-making, as we have already seen, dates from 
the reign of Charles I., at the least, though to produce 15.000 



BIRMINGHA M. 269 



swords, within a short period, as it did for Cromwell's forces, the 
trade must already have been in a flourishing condition. Gun- 
making rose into great importance during the French wars of 
1798 to 1815, and it is stated on trustworthy authority that a 
gun was produced every minute during a large portion of that 
interval. During eleven years, at the beginning of the present 
century, Birmingham turned out 1,743,382 arms. One of the 
most interesting features of the gun and pistol-making manufac- 
tures is the proofing. Before a gun or pistol barrel can be sent 
into the market it must have passed the ordeal and received the 
stamp of the proof house. As the barrels are made they are 
taken to this institution, charged with powder, far in excess to 
any with which they are likely to be loaded, and the charge 
exploded. Should they stand the test, they receive the proof 
house stamp ; while, on the other hand, the damaged barrels are 
returned to the respective makers as unfit for service. The proof 
house may be seen before entering the south tunnel. The 
manufacture of small arms has been greatly developed of late years. 
Between December, 1854, and the spring of 1857 tne English 
Government were furnished with 231,800 stands of arms, and 
upwards of 1,000,000 were supplied to general customers and 
foreign powers. 

Gold and silver plate and ornamental articles are extensively 
manufactured, 3,000 ounces of gold, and fourteen times that 
amount of silver, being the average weight of the precious 
metals tested in the assay office for the Birmingham manu- 
facturers. The annual consumption of gold and silver is 
valued at ^1,000,000, apart from the precious stones, the 
value of which might be set down at ^240,000 to ^250,000 
more. The number of workmen engaged in the various 
departments of the jewellery trade is estimated at from 7,000 
to 8,000. 

Among the public buildings of Birmingham, the Town Hall, 
placed at the top of New Street, stands first. The exterior is 
designed on the model of a Greek temple, with a foundation of 
rustic masonry, arcaded throughout. The outline is that of 
an oblong parallelogram, with eight columns at either end 
and thirteen at each side. The ceiling of the great hall is 
supported by Corinthian pilasters, with decorated capitals and 
cornice, and the room is capable of holding seven thousand 
persons (standing). At one end is a famous organ, by Hill, 
containing four thousand pipes, acted on by four beds of keys. 
Here are held the celebrated triennial musical festivals, for which 
Birmingham is famous, when the highest class of music is per- 
formed by aid of the best artistes of the day. It is particularly 
memorable for the introduction to the world of the oratorio, 



Elijah^ in 1846, under the baton of the composer, Mendelssohn, 
whose bust may be seen in the hall. Mona marble is the material 
used in the construction of the hall, which was completed in 1 850 ; 
it was opened to the public some sixteen years before. Oppo- 
site the Town Hall, is a colossal statue in bronze of the late wSir 
R. Peel, by Peter Hollins ; while hard by, the new Corporation 
Offices, facing Ann Street, are making satisfactory progress. 
The style of the building is Corinthian, in harmony with that of 
the Town Hall. The new Post Office, at the corner of Hill 
Street a.nd Paradise Street, is an extensive building, containing 
very complete arrangements, and every facility for conducting 
the postal business of Birmingham and the suburbs with despatch 
and reguarity. The Market Hall, in High Street, is also of 
Grecian design, with arched entrance, and supported by Doric 
columns. It is 365 feet long, 108 feet wide, sixty feet high, 
and is fitted with six hundred stalls. Opposite this building 
is a statue of Nelson, by Westmacott. The Exchange, a hand- 
some pile of brick and stone, with a facade in Stevenson Place 
186 feet long, was opened to the business men of Birmingham 
in 1865. The principal front consists of arcades of arched win- 
dows, four stories in height. The spire is 100 feet high ; the 
exchange room 186 feet long. The Birmingham and Midland 
Institute is a noble pile of buildings adjoining the Town Hall. 
It is in the Italian style ; the foundation-stone was laid by Prince 
Albert in 1855. The Queen's College, an imposing Gothic 
structure in Paradise Street, was founded by Mr. Sands Cox in 
1843. Its design is to provide instruction for young men who 
intend to engage in the learned professions. Some of the 
several professorships were endowed by Dr. Warneford. But 
King Edward VI. 's Free Grammar School, dating from 1552, 
though the present building is of this century, is the most cele- 
brated educational institution in the town. It is a handsome 
Gothic structure, 174 feet by 125 feet, and sixty feet in height, 
built by Sir Edward Barry, the architect of the Houses of 
Parliament at Westminster. The king endowed it with twenty 
pounds' worth of land, now worth to the school nearly ,£11,000 
a year — an indirect testimony to the prosperity of Birmingham. 
In the classical and English schools, there are about six hundred 
pupils, but besides these there are four branch schools in different 
parts of the town, accommodating about five hundred boys and 
five hundred girls, all supported out of this foundation. Another 
educational institution is the Blue-Coat Hospital, situated in St. 
Philip's Churchyard. It is an extensive building, maintaining and 
educating by voluntary contribution about two hundred boys and 
girls. The School Board has already obtained sites for several 
elementary schools ; and among the other educational appliances 



of the town are the various medical and theological colleges, the 
School of Design, and the Mason Scientific College, in Con- 
greve Street, at the back of the Town Hall. The site was 
presented and the college founded by Sir Josiah Mason, of 
Erdington, the donor of the extensive orphanage and alms- 
houses, near his seat. Springhill College is a Nonconformist 
school, in connection with the University of London. The 
General Hospital, in the interest of which the triennial festivals 
are held, is in Summer Lane. It was founded in 1769 by Dr. 
Ash. When Birmingham demonstrates on a large scale, Bingley 
Hall is the scene of operations selected. It is an immense shed, 
covering nearly two acres of land, put up to give accommodation 
to the Midland cattle and poultry shows, held annually in De- 
cember. Among other buildings of note are the Society of 
Artists' Institution, the Borough Gaol, the Lunatic Asylum, 
Queen's Hospital, Deaf and Dumb Asylum, Blind Asylum, 
Lying-in- Hospital, Infirmary, Magdalen Asylum, Ragged and 
Industrial School and Reformatory, the Union Club, the banks, 
Wholesale Fishmarket, etc. 

St. Martin's Church was the oldest ecclesiastical building ; but 
it has recently been pulled down and rebuilt. The original church 
was built in the Bull's Ring in the thirteenth century, and con- 
tained the tombs of the Berminghams. St. Philip's Church is, 
from its fine central position and the large open space round 
it, one of the most conspicuous objects in the town. It was 
built after the design of Sir T. Archer, a pupil of Sir Christopher 
Wren, and is a fair example of the style of the latter famous 
architect. It is a large building, 140 feet by seventy feet broad. 
At the west end is a well designed tower, crowned with a dome 
and lantern. The stone of which it is built is unfortunately 
crumbling away under exposure to the atmosphere, a decay 
which gives it a fictitious appearance of great age. St. Chad is 
supposed by some to be the finest ecclesiastical building in Bir- 
mingham. It is a Roman Catholic cathedral, built about thirty 
years ago, after the designs of the late Augustus Pugin. It is a 
large and exceedingly plain, but nevertheless picturesque, brick 
structure, in one of the dirtiest parts of the town. The interior 
is very fine. Two rows of pointed arches, nearly fifty feet high, 
divide the nave from the aisles ; there is no clerestory, and 
the whole is covered with an open timber roof. The furniture 
is exceedingly rich. A very elaborate and beautiful rood screen 
divides the choir from the nave. The high altar has a "baldac- 
chino " over it, beneath which is a shrine, containing the 
bones of St. Chad, Bishop of Lichfield. The body of this bishop 
appears to have been concealed by some of the old Roman 
Catholic families from the time of the Reformation until some 



272 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

thirty years ago, when it was placed in this church. The church 
of St. Peter and St. Paul, Aston, is an interesting structure, and 
dates from the time of Edward II., with the exception of the 
lofty and well-proportioned tower and spire, which was erected 
in the reign of Henry VI. There are some fine old stalls in the 
chancel. St. George's Church was built after . Rickman in the 
style of Decorated Early English. The following is the number 
of places of worship within the boundary of the borough : — 
Church of England, 50 ; Roman Catholic, 9 ; Congregationalist, 
11; Baptist, 15; Wesleyan Methodist, 17; Primitive Metho- 
dist, 9 ; Methodist New Connection, 5 ; United Methodist, 4 ; 
Wesleyan Reformers, 2 ; Unitarians, 6 ; New Jerusalemites, 2 ; 
Jews, 1 ; other denominations, 9. There are in the town 
ninety-one clergymen of the Established Church, twenty-two 
Roman Catholic priests, and sixty-four Dissenting ministers, be- 
sides thirty- eight lay agents of the Church of England and 
twelve town missionaries. 

Birmingham possesses four public parks. The finest of these 
is Aston Park, in which is situated Aston Hall, a noble 
edifice in the Elizabethan style, with a fine avenue of trees 
in front and sheltered on all sides. It was originally erected 
by Sir Thomas Holte, in 1620; he entertained Charles I. 
here previous to the battle of Edge Hill. Later, James Watt, 
the inventor of the steam-engine, occupied it. The estate for- 
merly covered an area of 350 acres. Forty acres were bought 
by the people of Birmingham at a cost of ,£35,000. The park 
became a place of recreation for the public, while the hall was 
utilised as a museum. Queen Victoria opened the park in 
person on the 15th June, 1858. This piece of land thus happily 
secured to the public is a beautiful area of undulating ground, 
commanding a fine prospect of hill, and dale, and stream. The 
remainder of this beautiful demesne has unfortunately been 
parcelled out and let on building leases. Adderley Park, at Salt- 
ley, consists of about twelve acres ; and Calthorpe Park, Pershore 
Road, of about thirty acres. Cannon Hill Park, Edgbaston 
Lane, more than sixty acres in extent, was the gift of Miss 
Ryland, of Barford, who not only presented the site to the cor- 
poration, but laid it out and enclosed it, at her own expense, 
providing a bathing place, a pool for boating, cricket and croquet 
grounds, and other appliances. The value of the gift in its 
entirety is estimated at at least ,£60,000. The Botanical Gardens, 
at Edgbaston, are worthy of a passing notice. They are open 
to the public at a charge of one shilling, reduced to a penny on 
Mondays. 

Excursions may be made from Birmingham to Dudley Castle 
and Caves, Leasowes (Shenstone'g seat), and Hagley Park, near 



Hales Owen, the fine country round Kidderminster and Stourport 
on the Severn. 

Proceeding on our route from Birmingham, we pass Stech^ 
ford, Marston Green, Hampton (in Arden), Berkswell, Tile 
Hill, and arrive at 

Coventry 

[Hotels : "Castle," " Craven Arms/' " King's Head," and "Red Lion : '], 

which has 41,348 inhabitants, and was formerly the third 
city of the realm. It is filled with stately buildings of great 
antiquity, and is full of associations of regal state, chivalry, and 
high events. Space will not allow us to do more than 
notice the story of its enfranchisement by the Saxon Earl 
Leofric. His wife, the Lady Godiva, had often besought 
her lord to emancipate the burghers ; but he always turned 
a deaf ear to her solicitations, until, wearied at last by her 
pertinacity, he told her he would grant her request, "if she 
would ride naked through the town." Leofric intended thus 
to put an end to her intercessions by imposing what he believed 
would be an impossible condition. Lady Godiva, however, 
took him at his word, and carried out his infamous proposal 
to the full, thus winning her request. This forms the subject 
of one of Tennyson's best poems. The tailor, " low churl, 
compact of thankless earth," therein mentioned, has been 
elevated to a u bad eminence " in the upper story of a house 
at the corner of Hertford Street, where " Peeping Tom " is 
still to be seen. 

The chief architectural beauties of Coventry are St. Michael's 
Church, with a tower and spire rising to the height of 303 
feet ; Trinity Church, remarkable for its ancient stone fountain ; 
and St. Mary's Hall, which has been justly pronounced the 
richest, and in every way completest, specimen of English 
architecture of the fifteenth century. Notice in particular the 
great window, and the ancient tapestry in the interior, mea- 
suring thirty feet by ten. Coventry is the great seat of watch- 
making, and of the coloured-ribbon manufacture. 

These two trades of Coventry are illustrations of the indirect 
benefits accruing to England from its enlightened policy in ex- 
tending a sanctuary to political exiles. A number of refugees 
driven out of France by the fierce persecutions of the seventeenth 
century settled in Coventry, and introduced the manufacture of 
the two classes of goods which are now its staple productions. 
The making of watches and the associated trades employ up- 
wards of 2.000 hands ; a more considerable number, 30,000, 



274 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

find employment in silk weaving and throwing, and the weaving 
and dyeing of ribbons. Steam has lately been much more largely 
employed in this manufacture, and veiy considerable steam 
factories have been erected. One built by Mr. Hart, and 
employing 1,000 hands, is capable of holding 300 large looms. 
Many women and children are employed in the various branches 
of the ribbon trade. The making of Coventry frillings is another 
productive trade of this town. 
Passing Brandon, we next reach 

Rugby 

[Hotels : " Three Horse Shoes " and " George "], 
in Warwickshire (population 8,385). Here is situated one of the 
most famous schools of England. It was founded by a London 
tradesman, Lawrence Sheriff, a native of Brownsover, in 1567? 
who endowed it with property now worth about ^7,000 a year. 
Many distinguished men have filled the chair of head master 
of the school ; the most noted and revered was the late Dr. 
Arnold, whose efforts raised its status to alevel with the best 
in England. The head master is assisted by about a dozen 
masters, some of whom, according to seniority, increase their 
emoluments by keeping boarding-houses for the scholars. A 
pension, varying from ;£ioo to £300, is given by the governing 
board to retiring masters after ten years' service. There are 
sixty scholars upon the foundation, who have the preference for 
the twenty-one exhibitions of the value of £60 per annum for seven 
years. These exhibitions are available at either Oxford or Cam- 
bridge. Beside the foundation scholars, the schools educate 
260 boys who pay for their tuition. The schools were rebuilt 
in the Tudor style, after designs by Hakewell, in 1808. The 
front is 220 feet long. Easter Wednesday is the great day at 
Rugby. Prize poems are recited in the great room, a very lofty 
and spacious apartment. One of these prizes, established by the 
Queen, is given in honour of Dr. Arnold's memory, to whom 
also a monument has been erected in the chapel attached to the 
schools. 

The town of Rugby is about one mile distant from the station. 
It stands on a rise of the ground near the river Avon, close also 
to the ancient Watling Street. There is an old Gothic church 
in the town. As previously mentioned, Rugby is the station at 
which the new main line route, via Trent valley (see page 289), 
joins the old line, vid Birmingham and Coventry. 

Leaving Rugby we pass through 

Kilsby Tunnel, 

carried through a portion of the high ground which separates 



ETC. 275 

the waters of the Avon from those of the Quse and Nene, and 
separates the counties of Warwick and Northampton. The 
tunnel is 2,435 yards long, 24 feet wide, and 22 feet in height 
above the rails. The walls are two feet thick ; they are built with 
Roman cement. The great difficulty arising from the running 
sand, through which the tunnel had to be constructed, baffled 
several engineers, and the company took up the work themselves. 
Seven hundred men were engaged in constructing the tunnel, 
which cost about ^"300,00x3. 
Passing Crick, we arrive at 

Weedon 

[Hotels : " Globe " and " New Inn "j, 
a first class military depot, capable of containing 240,000 stand of 
small arms. It contains very extensive military powder magazines. 
There are large smelting furnaces in the neighbourhood. The 
noted shoe-manufacturing town, Daventry, is about four miles 
west of Weedon. In it are the ruins of a priory given to Cardi- 
nal Wolsey by Henry VIII.; near are the remains of a Roman 
encampment. In 187 1, the population of Weedon was 1,861. 
From 

Blisworth Junction 

a line runs to the east, passing through Northampton to Peter- 
borough, and another line, branching to the west, goes to Strat- 
ford-on-Avon (fully described in section xxvi. ), via Towcester, 
from which town a line runs, via Brackley, to Banbury. We 
next come to Roade, and the next station of interest is 

Wolverton, 

where are situated the extensive carriage building works of the 
London and North- Western Railway, which we have noticed 
more fully on pages 43 to 52. From Wolverton, a branch line, 
four miles long, diverges to 

'Newport Pagnell 

[Hotels : " Anchor" and " Swan '*], 

a market town, with a population of 3,824. It ^ built at the 
junction of the Ousel with the Ouse, which 

(t Now glitters in the sun, and now retires* 
As bashful, yet impatient to be seen." 

The trade of Newport Pagnell is chiefly confined to paper and 
lace ; and an epitaph in the church, from the pen of Co^ per, is 
an object of interest* A continuation of the line to 



276 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

Olney, 

five miles distant, has been commenced, with, however, but a 
poor chance of completion. Olney is celebrated for its con* 
nection with Cowper, the house in which he lived till 1786 
being still shown to his admirers. Scott, the commentator, and 
John Newton were formerly curates of the parish ; the latter was 
associated with Cowper in the production of the well-known 
Olney Hymns. The population of Olney in 187 1 was 2,730. 
Resuming the journey from Wolverton, 

Bletchley 

[Hotels : " Station " and " Park "] 
is reached. This is an important junction, where the traveller 
from the north must change for Oxford or Cambridge. From this 
station an extended view is obtained of the surrounding country, 
including Whaddon Chase and Hall, where Arthur Lord Grey 
entertained Elizabeth. From this station to London there are 
four lines of rail, an arrangement which expedites the transit of 
the immense traffic which is carried by the North- Western Com- 
pany to the metropolis. Through very pleasing country, the 
line is carried to 

Leighton Buzzard, 

a small town of about 4,600 inhabitants, chiefly occupied in 
making lace and straw plait. There is an ancient cross near 
the Market House, a genuine relic of early English work ; 
it was built in 1300, stands 34 feet high, on five steps, and 
is set off with pinnacles and niches. Leighton church is a 
good Gothic cross, with stalls and a tall spire, which, origin- 
ally 193 feet high, was struck with lightning and injured in 
1852. Close to Leighton is Stewkley, containing a church, an 
excellent example of the Norman style. Aston Abbot's House 
was the seat of Sir James Ross, the Polar navigator. From 
Leighton a branch line is carried to Dunstable and Luton (see 
pages 328-9). Continuing the journey, the line is carried across 
the vale of Aylesbury, past Cheddington Junction, where the 
traveller must change trains, should he desire to visit Aylesbury 
(see page 329), and, by a deep cutting through the Chiltern 
Hills, to 

Tring 

[liO tels : " Royal " and " Rose and Crown "] 
(population 4,083). The tourist on leaving Tring will see on the 
right Tring Park, a well-wooded and beautiful domain, in the 
midst of which is a splendid mansion, built by Charles II. for 
Nell Gwynn, who induced that monarch to found Chelsea and 



BERKHAMPSTED. 



rebuild Greenwich Hospitals. Proceeding onwards, the seat of 
Earl Brownlow, Ashridge Park, will be seen on the left. After 
passing through Northchurch tunnel (530 yards in length) and 
cutting, the next station reached is 

Berkhampsted 

(population 4083), noted as the birth-place (1731) of Cowper, the 
poet, whose father was rector. An Anglo-Saxon castle stood 
here at the time of the conquest, and in it William the Conqueror 
halted to receive a deputation of Saxon nobles, after the battle 
of Hastings. The present "old castle," of which only a few 
broken walls remain, was built by Robert, Earl of Mortaigne, 
soon after the conquest, and among those who since lived there 
were Piers Gaveston (see Warwick, pages 284-7), Edward the 
Black Prince, and the Duchess of York, mother of Richard III. 
Under Richard II., Geoffrey Chaucer, the poet, was clerk of the 
works of Berkhamsted Castle. On the top of a hill near is a 
house built by Sir Edward Cary, in the time of Queen Elizabeth, 
who granted him a lease of the "old castle," at the rent of a 
red rose every Midsummer Day. This house is now the residence 
of the Marquis of Hamilton, and is known as Berkhampsted 
Castle — in old documents, "House." 

The church is a cruciform building, with chapels, chantries, 
and several interesting monumental brasses, besides three altar 
tombs, one to the memory of John Sayer, chief cook to Charles 
II. This chef also built some almshouses here. Near the 
church is an endowed grammar-school. 

Berkhampsted St. Mary, or Northchurch (1 \ mile), contains in 
its graveyard the tomb of Peter the Wild Boy, of whom there is 
also a likeness, engraved in brass, on the wall of the church. 

In the neighbourhood of Berkhampsted is Ashridge, the residence 
of Earl Brownlow and of the Bridgewater family. It was founded 
as a college by Edmund, son of Richard, Earl of Cornwall and 
King of the Romans, and was richly endowed, and presented 
by the founder with part of a drop of the Saviour's blood, pro- 
cured by Edmund in Saxony, after much difficulty. The park 
contains some fine drives. 

Passing on by train from Berkhampsted towards Boxmoor, 
Broadway Farm, the residence of Peter the Wild Boy, is seen. 
Then Boxmoor (noted for its water-cresses), and farther on, 
King's Langley, with an ancient church and some remains of a 
castle, said to have been built by King John, and inhabited by 
Richard III., who, to revenge himself upon an old widow there, 
who called him * ' Hunchback, " ordained that in this parish no 
widow should receive her "thirds." 



273 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 
We next pass through 

Watford Tunnel, 

1, 725 yards in length. It runs through the chalk formation, which 
makes its appearance, in situ, for the last time before reaching 
London. The "potholes," or infiltrations of gravel, which 
abound here, considerably impeded the operations of the miners. 
A new double tunnel, required for the quadruple line to Bletchley, 
has recently been constructed. Emerging from the tunnel the 
train reaches 

Watford 

[Hotels : " Clarendon/' " Maiden," " Verulam," and " Essex Arms"], 
a double junction station and a busy thriving town, situated 
on the banks of the River Colne. Near to is Cassiobury Park, 
the seat of the Earl of Essex, and Grove Park, the property 
of the Earl of Clarendon, in which is a noble gallery of por- 
traits, formed by the great Lord Chancellor Clarendon. Popula- 
tion 7,461. 

The London Orphan Asylum is situated immediately to the 
north-east of the London and North- Western Railway at Wat- 
ford. It was instituted in the year 181 3, for the maintenance 
and education of fatherless children of either sex and from any 
locality, who are of respectable parentage and destitute of the 
means of support. Five hundred and thirty orphans are edu- 
cated in the asylum. Orphans are retained until they arrive at 
the age of fifteen, and are provided, for the most part, with situa- 
tions — the boys in counting-houses, warehouses, and retail shops, 
the girls as pupil teachers in national or private schools, in 
private families, or as nursery governesses. Children are eligible 
between the ages of seven and eleven, and are elected by the 
votes of the whole body of the subscribers. The ordinary ex- 
penditure of the asylum is about ^15,000 per annum. The 
buildings, which are in the Victorian style, were erected under 
the superintendence of Mr. Henry Dawson, M.R.J.Bd. of Fins- 
bury place, and were opened in July, 1871. They consist of 
administrative offices, dining-hall, girls' quadrangle, infirmary, 
and seven houses each occupied by fifty boys, and each house 
being in charge of a matron. The houses are separated into 
two quadrangles, for junior and senior boys, with a school-room 
for the use of each respectively. The chapel, designed with 
great taste, was the gift of an old scholar, and cost ,£5,000. 
The institution is mainly supported by annual and life subscrip- 
tions, conferring votes at the elections. An annual subscrip- 
tion of ios.6d. and a life subscription of ^5 5s. respectively give 



HARROW-ON-THE-HILL } ETC. 279 

one vote at each election ; a proportionate increase of the sub- 
scription giving a proportionate increase of votes. The office of 
the institution is at 1, Saint Helen's Place, London, E.C. 

Leaving Watford, we pass Bushey and Pinner, close to which, 
the Commercial Travellers' Schools, a handsome block of build- 
ings, is seen on the left-hand side of the line. It is a charitable 
institution, capable of accommodating upwards of three hundred 
boys and girls, the children of needy or the orphans of commer- 
cial travellers. 

The next station is 

Harrow-on-the-Hill 

[Hotels ; " King's Head " and " Three Horse Shoes "], 
a town with a population of over 4,999. From the summit of 
Harrow Hill, a most extensive prospect is gained of the surround- 
ing country. The hill, with the church and school on one side, 
and the old churchyard sloping on the other, forms in itself a 
continuation of objects inexpressibly attractive and picturesque ; 
but when the eye ranges over the vast expanse, and the landscape 
is lit up with the gorgeous and glowing sunset of a summer's eve, 
the prospect becomes extremely fascinating. It commands a 
delightful view of the wide, rich valley through which the Thames 
stretches its sinuous course ; on the west it embraces a view of 
the fertile portions of Buckinghamshire and Berkshire ; on the 
east, London, with St. Paul's dome, and to the south, the towers 
of Windsor Castle and the undulations of the Surrey hills. 
Harrow School was founded by John Lyon in the reign of Queen 
Elizabeth, and is one of the first in England. In the church is a 
memorial of Dr. Drury, by Westmacott, representing Sir R. Peel 
and Lord Byron at his feet. These, with Palmerston, were 
among the more distinguished of the modern students at Harrow. 
Byron's visit to the school in after years gave rise to the well- 
known poem containing the lines — 

" Again, I beheld where for hours I had pondered, 
As reclining at eve on yon tombstone I lay ; 
Or round the steep brow of the churchyard I wandered, 
To catch the last glimpse of the sun's setting ray." 

The Vaughan Library, a handsome building erected in memory 
of Dr. Vaughan, after designs by Sir George Scott, is worthy of 
notice in connection with the schools. 
We next pass Sudbury, and reach 

Willesden Junction, 

an important outlying station of the London district. 

A glance at the map of the London district, and at the various 



2So LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

services of trains which leave Willesden Junction, their frequency, 
and the important districts which they serve, will enable the 
tourist to gather an idea of the value of this station to the rail- 
way traffic of London. It is to the north what Clapham Junc- 
tion is to the south of London, an artery through which pants, 
rushes, and whirls, an endless stream of trains, hurrying to or con- 
nected with all parts of the kingdom. Nearly five hundred trains 
pass every day through this junction. With one or two excep- 
tions, all the main line trains stop at Willesden. Beside the five 
platforms which accommodate the traffic on the main line level, 
and which are unitedly of the length of nearly three quarters of 
a mile, the whole is crossed at right angles by two high level 
stations, w T hich communicate by means of convenient stairways 
with the platforms below. By this station the London and North- 
western Railway have a connection for goods traffic with the 
East and West India, the Victoria and other docks of the port 
of London. Every quarter of an hour trains leave for the 
Broad Street or City terminus, calling at, among other places, 
Kensal Green, Hampstead Heath, Camden Town, Islington, 
Dalston Junction, and Shoreditch. Trains leave every half-hour 
for Kensington (Addison Road) and stations on the District 
Railway, calling at South Kensington, Westminster, Charing 
Cross, Blackfriars, and the Mansion House, which gives the 
company another city terminus. Every hour trains start for the 
holiday districts of the west of London, Kew Gardens and 
Richmond, and every half-hour for Acton and Kew Bridge. 
Trains leave Willesden also for the Crystal Palace at Sydenham, 
via Kensington and Clapham Junction. Not the least impor- 
tant of the services of trains from Willesden Junction are the 
express trains, which enable passengers going south of London 
by either the London, Brighton, and South Coast Railway, or the 
London, Chatham, and Dover Railway, to take the trains on those 
lines at Victoria, without passing through the thronged streets of 
London, or on the London and South-Western Railway at 
Waterloo. 

Resuming the route at Willesden Junction for the Euston 
terminus, the tourist will understand that he is now within the 
bounds of London. Passing quickly through Kilburn, close to 
which is the celebrated cemetery of Kensal Green, the last rest- 
ing place of many eminent persons, and Camden Town, the 
London goods depot of the London and North- Western Railway, 
and also the junction with the North London Railway, a line 
having stations at Barnsbury, Islington, Dalston, Hackney, and 
Stratford, where is a connection with the North Woolwich 
Railway and the docks. The necessities of the heavy passenger 
and goods traffic of the important railway over which we have 



KENIL WOR TH. 28 1 



conducted the traveller have obliged the company to add to its 
carrying powers by laying down quadruple lines as far as 
Bletchley. The last steps are now being taken to complete this 
extra up and down line by piercing Primrose Hill through with 
another tunnel, by the side of the one originally made there. 
The tunnel referrred to (845 yards long) is the second from 
Willesden Junction, or the last before the tourist reaches the 
metropolitan terminus of the London and North- Western Rail- 
way at Euston Square, for description of which see page 8, 



EXCURSION X. 

COVENTRY TO KENILWORTH, LEAMINGTON, AND 
WARWICK. 

A LOOP, diverging from the main line at Coventry, conducts 
the tourist through Kenil worth, Leamington, and Warwick, 
to Rugby. The town of 

Kenilworth 

[Inns : " King's Arms," " Castle," and " Bowling Green"], 
is about midway between Coventry and Warwick, being five 
miles from either of those places, and about the same distance 
from Leamington. It is chiefly composed of one long street 
of neat and comfortable houses, and has a population of 
3,335, but is remarkable only for its castle. Tradition refers 
the original fortress to the time of Arthur ; but the present 
structure dates only from the reign of Henry I., who bestowed 
the manor on Geoffrey de Clinton. This Geoffrey, a man 
of mean parentage, but raised to the highest offices in the 
state by Henry, was the founder of the most ancient portion 
of the edifice — Caesar's Tower. vSoon after the death of 
Geoffrey, possession lapsed to the Crown, and we find the 
castle used as a prison in the time of Henry II. The third 
Henry granted it to the celebrated Simon de Montfort, who 
had married the king's sister. The remnant of the insur- 
gent barons having taken refuge in the fortress, after the 
battle of Evesham, it was besieged and taken. It subse- 
quently underwent several sieges during the Wars of the Roses, 
but all damages were repaired by Henry VIII. Elizabeth 
bestowed it on her favourite, Dudley, Earl of Leicester. This 



282 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

nobleman spent ^60,000 in embellishing and adding to his new 
acquisition ; but "Leicester's Buildings" have a more ancient 
and ruined appearance than the other portions, owing to the 
friable nature of the stone. The following is Sir Walter Scott's 
description of the castle as it then appeared : — 

" The outer wall of this splendid and gigantic structure en- 
closed seven acres, a part of which was occupied by extensive 
stables and by a pleasure-garden, with its trim arbours and 







5g|p%§2 iSSsE* 







Kenilworth, in Elizabeth's time. 



parterres, and the rest formed the large base court or outer 
yard of the noble castle. The lordly structure itself, which 
rose near the centre of this spacious enclosure, was composed 
of a huge pile of magnificent castellated buildings, of different 
ages, surrounding an inner court, and bearing, in the names 
attached to each portion of the magnificent mass, and in the 
armorial bearings which were there blazoned, the emblems of 
mighty chiefs who had long passed away, and whose history, 
could Ambition have lent ear to it, might have read a lesson 
to the haughty favourite who had now acquired and was aug- 
menting the fair domain. A large and massive keep, which 
formed the citadel of the castle, was of uncertain, though 
great, antiquity. It bore the name of Caesar, perhaps from 



KENILWORTH. 



its resemblance to that in the Tower of London, so called. 
The external wall of this royal castle was on the south and 
west sides defended by a lake, partly artificial, across which 
Leicester had constructed a stately bridge, that Elizabeth 
might enter the castle by a path hitherto untrodden." 

The appearance of Kenilworth in its present dilapidated 
state is picturesque in the extreme. Vast portions of the 
ancient pile are still standing, but they are now in a dis- 
mantled and ruinous condition. Much of it is overhung with 
ivy and other clinging shrubs, intermixing their evergreen 
beauty with the venerable tints of the mouldering stonework. 




The Great Gatehouse, Kenilworth. 



Strangers enter by the side of the great gatehouse, whose 
arched way has been walled up and divided into two modern 
rooms. One of them deserves a visit, as it is fitted up with 
an elegant chimney-piece and oak wainscoting, which happily 
escaped Cromwellian depredation, and was removed from one 
of the principal apartments in Leicester's Buildings. The 
former splendid specimen of ancient art is of alabaster, finely 
sculptured with the bear and ragged staff — the crest of 



2S4 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

Leicester — and with the monograms of Robert Dudley and 
Queen Elizabeth. 




Fireplace, Kenihvorth. 



The old church of St. Nicholas, with its picturesque steeple, 
and the remains of the monastery founded by Geoffrey de 
Clinton, are both situated close to the castle. 

The next place of importance on the route is 

Leamington 

[Hotels: " Regent," " Clarendon." "Manor House" "Crown/' "Bath," 
and " Angel "]. 

so called from the river Learn, which flows through the town 
to the Avon. It is a remarkably clean and well-built spa (with 
a population of 20,910), which has sprung up within the last 
half-century in consequence of the efficacy of its mineral 
waters, and has all the accompaniments of the modern fashion- 
able spa — good hotels, promenades, public gardens, and 
assembly-rooms. An analysis of the waters may be of interest. 
They are of two kinds, saline and sulphuretted saline. One 
hundred parts of an imperial pint of the saline springs yield 



LEAMINGTON. 285 



the following amounts of salts in grains (without decimal 
fractions) : — 

Sulphate of soda Chloride of sodium Chloride of calcium magnesium 

35 30 23 11 

Silicia, peroxide of iron, iodine, and bromide of sodium, in minute quantities. 
Gases in cubic inches. 
Carbonic acid 3, oxygen and nitrogen in minute proportions. 

SULPHURETTED SALINE SPRINGS. 

Salts in grains. 

Sulphate of soda Chloride of sodium Chloride of calcium magnesium 

28 I 25 15 I 9 

Peroxide of iron, iodine, and bromide of sodium, in minute quantities. 

Gases in cubic inches. 

Sulphuretted l^drogen I Carbonic acid I Oxygen Nitrogen 

1-144 S'^ 6 '025 "425 

The most important building in connection with these waters 
is the Royal Pump Room and Baths, an extensive edifice erected 
in 1813, at a cost of ^25, 000. It consists of a central block, 
106 feet in length, and rising to an elevation of fifty feet, flanked 
by two extensive wings. The chief feature of the principal 
elevation is a massive colonnade, formed of duplicated pillars of 
the Doric order. The pump room is of noble proportions, the 
ornamental parts of the ceiling, the cornices, and all the interior 
embellishments being exceedingly chaste and elegant. The 
bathing establishment is considered one of the most complete 
and convenient in the kingdom. Opposite the Royal Pump 
Room is another one of the prime attractions of Leamington — 
the Jephson Gardens, occupying a delightful situation on the 
banks of the Learn. Gravel paths, flowers and ornamental 
shrubbery, an artificial lake, the flowing Learn, and beautiful 
views make these gardens an attractive promenade. A first- 
rate band plays in the gardens in summer time, another special 
feature being the cultivation of archery, a rural sport much 
practised in the neighbourhood ; a portion of the grounds being 
set apart for the use of its fashionable votaries. The winter 
season is enlivened by the frequent meets of a noted pack of 
foxhounds, whose kennels are about a mile from Leamington. 

As Leamington is very conveniently situated for visiting 
the numerous places of interest within a short distance of the 
town, we should recommend the tourist to make it his head- 
quarters during his stay in the locality. 



286 LONDON AXD NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

A pleasant level road, planted on either side with shady trees, 
affords access to the ancient town of 

Warwick 

[Hotels : "Warwick Arms/' " Globe," and "Woolpack"], 
i.e. Waering-wick (the Town on the Mound), which is situated 
on rising ground near the Avon (population io,gS6). Tradi- 
tion refers the foundation of the town to the British king 
Cymbeline, by whom it was called Caerleon. It was then 
destroyed by the Picts, rebuilt by Caractacus, and soon after 
converted into a Roman station. Being again destroyed, it 
was restored, after the Roman evacuation, on two successive 
occasions by the British king Constantine and by Prince 
Gawayn. a cousin of Arthur. The first Earl of Warwick was 
Arthgal, a Knight of the Round Table. During the Saxon 
period Warwick was once^more all but demolished, and being 
rebuilt by Warremund, King of Mercia, is supposed by some 
authorities to have derived its title from him ; but our deriva- 
tion is supported by the evidence of the Saxon Chronicle and 
of a coin struck in the reign of Hardicanute. Of the long list 
of earls enumerated by Rous as ruling between this time and 
the Conquest, we need only mention the redoubted Guy, whose 
armour is shown in the Porter's Lodge. This hero was, ac- 
cording to the legendary stories which have come down to us, 
nine feet in height, and performed prodigies of valour, previous 
to becoming a palmer and ending his days in retirement at 
the cliff which bears his name. After the Conquest the castle 
was enlarged, and entrusted, together with the town, to Henry 
de Newburgh, in whose family it continued for six generations. 
It thence passed to the Beauchamps, the most celebrated of 
whom was Richard, the fifth earl of this family, who was one of 
the most illustrious knights in Europe. On the death of his 
son without heirs, the earldom was conferred on the renowned 
Richard Nelville, Earl of Salisbury, the father-in-law and 
uncle of the deceased lord. This noble, celebrated in English 
history as the " King-maker," is said to have maintained no 
less than 30,000 persons in his different castles and manors, on 
the Salisbury and Warwick estates. He was the last of the 
barons who bid open defiance to the Crown, and with his fall, 
at the battle of Barnet, died out the baronial check on arbitrary 
government. Thenceforth it was by courting popular favour, 
and by disseminating and fostering a jealousy of the roj al 
prerogative, that the nobles managed to uphold that balance 
of power between king and subject which has slowly, but 
surely, secured to the English people the enjoyment of their 
present rights and privileges. 




THE AVENUE, GUYS CLIFF, WARWICKSHIRE. 



The King-maker's two daughters — married respectively to 
George, Duke of Clarence, and to Edward, Prince of Wales, son 
of Henry VI. — were also unhappy in their deaths. No less 
unfortunate were their husbands, Edward being slain in cold 
blood by Richard of Gloucester, who subsequently married 
his widow ; while Clarence was imprisoned in the Tower by 
his own brother, the reigning king, and drowned in a butt of 
Malmsey wine. The title was revived in the reign of Henry 
VIII., in favour of John Dudley, but again became extinct 
on the death of Ambrose Dudley, " the good earl," who was 
brother to Elizabeth's favourite, the then owner of Kenil worth. 
Again revived by James I. in favour of Robert, Lord Rich, the 
title remained in his family till 1759, when it was conferred on 
the then possessor of the castle and estates, which had been 
alienated from the title since the death of the last Dudley : 
this was Francis Greville, of whom the present earl is a 
descendant. 

" It is a rare consolation for the lover of his country's monu- 
ments," says Knight, " to turn from castles made into prisons, 
and abbeys into stables, to such a glorious relic of Old, 
England as 

" Warwick Castle." 

This criticism is supported by the still stronger opinion of 
Sir Walter Scott, who said it " is the finest monument of 
ancient and chivalrous splendour which remains uninjured by 
time." After passing the Porter's Lodge, the visitor proceeds 
by a broad road, quarried through solid rock, to the outer 
court. On the right is the tower called after the famous Guy, 
while the left end of the embattled wall which confronts the 
approach terminates in Caesar's Tower, the oldest part of the 
castle. The arched and tower-flanked gateway is reached by 
a draw-bridge, passing which the visitor finds himself in the 
inner court, with the inhabited and castellated mansion and 
the chapel on his left, and, in front, the keep, exhibiting a 
battlemented moss-grown facade with an iron-grating gate- 
way. But for details, we must refer to Shaw's Shilling Guide 
to Leamington and this district. 

The churches in the town claim a visit. This is especially 
the case with St. Mary's and the 

Beauchamp Chapel, 

a structure declared by Dugdale to be the finest specimen of 
Gothic architecture in the kingdom, The exterior is highly 
enriched with tracery and decorative appendages ; and the interior 



288 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 



which is lighted by three windows on each side, with one at the 
end, is a perfect model of beauty and splendour. The sepulchral 




Leicester's Tomb. 



monuments are extremely gorgeous. That of Richard Beauchamp, 
Earl of Warwick, who founded the chapel, occupies the centre. 
He died in 1439. A splendid marble monument at the side of 
the chapel marks the resting-place of Robert Dudley, Earl of 
Leicester, the unfortunate favourite of Queen Elizabeth, with his 
third countess, Lettice. Both are represented beneath a superb 



canopy of variegated marble, which rises to a height of fifteen 
feet. 

Leicester's Hospital, a good specimen of ancient domestic 
architecture, and the venerable and picturesque mansion of 
Guy's Cliff should be seen. 

Guy's Cliff is delightfully situated amongst typical English 
scenery, about one mile and a half from Warwick, on the Coventry 
road. Here St. Dubritius founded an oratory, and Guy, Earl of 
Warwick, retired from the pleasures of the world. The priests of 
the chantry, instituted by Richard Beauchamp, a later earl, found 
accommodation in caves which may still be seen, hewn out of 
the natural rock, and having subterranean communication with 
the chapel above. A number of fine paintings by Holbein, 
Lely, Spagnoletto, and Cuyp will attract the tourist's attention. 
The famous avenue, of which we give a coloured illustration, may 
be seen from the road when about half way from Warwick. 

A pleasant drive of ten miles, affording glimpses of the 
Claverdon, Bearley, and Wilmcote estates, conducts us to 

Stratford-on-Avon, 

" Where his first infant lays sweet Shakespeare sung, 
Where the last accents falter'd on his tongue." 

A full notice of the town and its associations will be found 
in Section xxvi. 



SECTION XXI. 

STAFFORD TO RUGBY. 

HAVING conducted the traveller over the company's line from 
Liverpool to London, and visited almost all the principal 
towns and places of interest on the route, it yet remains to describe 
the various branches connecting the main line with the important 
towns removed from it at greater or less distances. We will 
commence with that portion of the line traversed by the quick 
through trains from Liverpool, the North, Manchester, Holy- 
head, Chester, etc., which begins at Stafford and ends at Rugby, 
known as the Trent Valley Loop Line. 

19 



290 CGL V/ICH— TAMWOR Til— A THERSTONE. 

Leaving Stafford behind, the first station met with is 

Colwich, 

near to a church with a very handsome interior, standing in a 
village of the same name. Close to is Shugborough, the seat of 
the Earl of Lichfield. It is a beautifully-wooded estate, made 
memorable as having been, in 1697, ine birthplace of Lord Anson, 
the circumnavigator of the globe. He was buried in Colwich 
church. The same edifice contains monuments to several of the 
Wolseley family, who have a seat at Wolseley Park. 

The next station is Rugeley, where lived the infamous Palmer, 
whose execution took place at Stafford gaol. Thence to Armitage, 
a town once celebrated for the manufacture of tobacco pipes. 
Beaudesert Park, the seat of the Marquis of Anglesea, is two 
miles distant. It is situated on Cannock Chase, an extensive tract 
of bare hills, on which the autumn manoeuvres of 1875 took 
place. The district is rich in iron and coal. Farther on is 

Lichfield Junction, 

described in Section xxiii. A line leaving Lichfield on the left, 
in a north-easterly direction, passes, via Burton, to Derby, 
whilst another in exactly the contrary direction, on the right 
hand, connects Lichfield, via Walsall, with Birmingham. Re- 
suming the journey from this striking cathedral city, we arrive at 

Tamworth 

[Hotels : " Castle" and " Peel Arms "] 
station, a very handsome building. The town has a population 
of about 11,500, largely employed in the manufacture of woollen 
cloths, calicos, leather, and ale. Tamworth Castle, the property 
of the Marquis of Townshend, was built by Robert Marmion, a 
family which supplied a name to the hero of one of Scott's most 
popular poems. The ancient church of Tamworth contains a 
monument of Peel, whose statue by Noble also stands in the 
market place. Still approaching London, we pass the stations 
of Polesworth and 

Atherstone 

[Hotels : u Red Lion," "Angel," and "Three Tuns"], 
a town with a population of 3,667, doing a large business in the 
making of hats. The night before the battle of Bosworth Field, 
Richmond stayed at the Three Tuns Inn, and received the sacra- 



ment of Mass in the church, his army being encamped in a 
meadow north of the church. It was here that Lord Stanley 
had an interview with Richmond, and arranged the tactics which 
secured his victory. 

Nuneaton Junction, 

described on page 304, is the next station. A line, running in a 
general direction at right angles with the main line, connects the 
system with Leicester, on the east or left hand, and with Coventry, 
Leamington, and consequently Birmingham and Wolverhamp- 
ton, on the west or right hand. Still pursuing our way towards 
the metropolis, we rapidly pass Bulkington, Shilton, and 
Brinklow, unimportant stations, and arrive at 

Rugby, 

already described on page 274. At this station we "join the 
main line from Wolverhampton and Birmingham, 



SECTION XXII. 

CREWE TO STAFFORD, via BURSLEM, STOKE-UPON- 
TRENT, TRENTHAM, AND STONE. 

A SHORT branch line, constructed to accommodate the salt 
traffic of Cheshire, connects, by Radway Green and Alsager 
stations, the central station at Crewe with Burslem and Stoke-upon- 
Trent at Kidsgrove Junction. To the south of the junction is the 
mining village of Talk, or 

Talk-o'-th'-Hill, 

brought into prominent notice in 1866, through a disastrous col- 
liery explosion in a mine of the same name, which resulted in the 
loss of nearly a hundred lives. Near also to Kidsgrove Junction 
is the Harecastle tunnel of the Grand Trunk Canal, which pierces 
the high ground separating Cheshire and Staffordshire. The 
tunnel was surveyed by the famous engineer Brindley. It is 2,880 
yards long, 9 feet wide, and 12 feet high. To accommodate 
the increased traffic a larger canal has been made, parallel to the 
first, under Telford. Passing Tunstall station, the tourist reaches 



292 LOXDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

Bursleni, 

a town with a population of nearly 26,000. It was formerly 
noted for its common yellow ware, and went by the name of 
u Butter Pot," in allusion to the colour. The clay used for this 
ware was dug near the town, and from it were manufactured 
coloured dishes, jugs, etc. Near Burslem, Josiah Wedgwood 
was born in 1730; in 1759 he began his first pottery works at 
Ivy Cottage. Under the impetus given by Wedgwood to the 
manufacture, Burslem has rapidly increased in importance and 
population. There are now in this well-built town about 
forty earthenware and pottery establishments, affording em- 
ployment to most of the inhabitants. Though he afterwards 
removed to Etraria, it was here Wedgwood brought the ware 
known under his name to the perfection it since reached. The 
finer sorts are largely made from china clay, felspar, soapstone, 
and flint, imported from the south. The foundation stone of the 
School of Art and Free Library, an Italian Gothic structure, 
built as a memorial to Josiah Wedgwood, was laid by Mr. 
Gladstone in 1863. The Town Hall is a handsome structure. 
To the east of Burslem are the remains of the abbey of Hulton, 
founded in 1223. 

Etruria, 

the next station on the route was founded by Wedgwood in 
1769, when the works at Burslem became too limited for his 
increasing business. Here also he built Etruria Hall, a hand- 
some red brick building. In the cellars of this mansion Wedg- 
wood mixed the materials, which he alone possessed the secret of 
compounding, for the varieties of earthernware and porcelain 
which he introduced, and Flaxman modelled into shapes of 
great beauty and value. The population of Etruria is 3 000. 
The pottery works are still in the possession of the Wedgwood 
family ; Etruria Hall is occupied by W. S. Roden, Esq. Close 
to Etruria are the enormous bar-iron works of Lord Granville, 
employing about three thousand workmen. 

Leaving Etruria, the train conducts the traveller to 

Stoke-upon-Trent 

[Hotels : " Railway" and " Wheatsheaf"], 
a parliamentary borough (population 130.985), where the tourist 
will do well to alight to view the pottery and tile works of Messrs. 
Minton and Co. Stoke is the centre of the Staffordshire Potteries ; 
the stout low kilns peculiar to the district lie everywhere around, 
each the centre of a pottery establishment, for which a " bank " 
s the local name. The railway station is a splendid structure, 



STONE— HANLE Y. 293 

built in the Tudor style at a cost of ;£i 50,000. Between the 
railway station and the hotel in the centre of Winton Square 
stands a fine bronze statue of Wedgwood, by Davis. St. Peter's 
Church, noted for its handsome pinnacled tower, contains a 
monument to Wedgwood (the bust by Flaxman), memorials of 
the Spodes, and a brass to Minton. Stoke School of Science and 
Art is a memorial to Mr. Minton. Traces of the local industry 
will be seen about most of the public buildings of this town, 
Minton's tiles being used in the church, the approaches of the 
railway stations, etc. 

Taking up the route again at Stoke, and passing Trentham and 
Barlaston stations, the tourist arrives at 

Stone, 

a town of 3,732 inhabitants, who are chiefly occupied in the 
manufacture of shoes. From Stone the route takes the traveller 
through Sandon, the seat of the Earl of Harrowby, Hixon, and 
Weston, to Stafford, 



. EXCURSION XL 

ETRURIA TO HANLEY. 

A SHORT branch leaves the above line at Etruria, and runs for 
A \ the distance of a mile and a quarter to 

Hanley 

[Hotels : " King's Head," and " Saracen's Head "j, 
a centre of the pottery district of North Staffordshire, contain- 
ing a municipal population of 39,976. It is pleasingly situated 
on high land, but contains few buildings of note, except the 
Town Hall, Shelton Church, and the new Exchange, which 
was opened Jan. 6th, 1875, by Lord Wrottesley, lord lieu- 
tenant of Derbyshire. Dimmock and Company's pottery works 
are worthy of remark. The town contains about twenty 
of these flourishing establishments. The last century has 
seen a wonderful development of this manufacture in the district 
of which Hanley is the centre. One of the peculiarities of this 
industry is that the materials used are wholly, with the exception 
of coal, brought from districts outside the Potteries. In 187 1, 
as much as 155,933 tons of potters' material were imported. 



294 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

Scattered through the district are 260 pottery works, employing 
more than 10,000 hands, besides those earning wages in branches 
of manufacture which depend upon this industry, such as clay, 
colour, bone, and flint-grinding, etc. " Few industrial localities 
present a more vivid example of this rapid transformation than 
the Potteries, the scene of Wedgwood's splendid triumphs, and 
the home of wedded art and handicraft. In this instance the 
ware of the Potteries has been a transforming spell, and by its 
power a district which a hundred years ago was described by the 
old chroniclers as ' a bleak and rugged landscape, very sparse of 
inhabitants/ now teems with active life, and occupies an honour- 
able place among the world's great workshops." The district 
known as the Potteries, including, as it does, several considerable 
towns, is but ten miles in length, and not wider than one mile and 
a half. The whole of this ground is covered by the kilns, the 
workshops, or the dwellings of the work-people. Of the 260 
manufactories, 134 produce earthenware, sixty china, twenty-six 
Parian, and forty a general class of goods. A great portion of 
the materiel used comes from Cornwall and other districts in the 
south, arriving by sea at Runcorn, and being there transhipped, 
and conveyed to the Potteries by the Grand Trunk Canal, the 
work of Wedewood. 



EXCURSION XII 

STOKE-UPON-THENT TO LONGTON AND TO TKENTHAM 
HALL. 

T^ROM Stoke an excursion may be made by rail to 
Longton 

[Hotels : " Crown and Anchor," " Eagle," and " Union "], 
another town absorbed in the manufacture of different classes of 
pottery. It is inhabited by 19,748 persons, most of whom are 
engaged in the local industry ; brewing and brickmaking are 
subsidiary interests. The Town Hall is worthy of remark. The 
lower part is the market ; the Athenaeum is accommodated in 
one of the wings. Longton Hall and Edensor (where there is a 
handsome new church) are in the neighbourhood, and should be 
noticed. Leaving Longton, we pass Blythe Bridge, Cresswell, 
r.ncl Leigh stations, and reach 



UTTOXE TER-TREM'HAM. 295 



Uttoxeter, 

a pleasant market town, with a population of 4,692, where there 
is a fine church, lately rebuilt, except the spire, which is 179 feet 
high, a free grammar school, and a curious six-arched stone 
bridge. 

From hence the tourist may reach Burton and Derby, described 
in the next section, 

Another excursion may be made by rail, but better by road, 
from Stoke to 

Trentham 

[Hotel : " Sutherland Arms"] 
(population 783), the chief feature of which is Trentham Hall, 
a mansion of the Duke of Sutherland. The site was first occu- 
pied by a nunnery, of which reference has been found in King 
Alfred's time. It was elevated to the dignity of a priory in 
Henry I.'s reign ; but lost its estates at the time of the dissolu- 
tion of monasteries under Henry VIII., when the buildings passed 
into the occupancy of the Leveson's, The present building took 
the place of the Old Hall early in the last century, but considera- 
ble additions and alterations have been made since, especially 
by the late Duke, by whom the whole front was reconstructed, 
and the fine central tower added from designs by Sir Charles 
Barry. It is built in the Italian style, and is now one of the 
finest mansions in the country. The tower rises to a height of 
100 feet. Trentham Hall was visited by the Princess Victoria and 
the Duchess of Kent in 1832. It contains a large picture gallery. 
The park, which has an area of 500 acres, contains a deer chase, 
beautifully wooded, and magnificent pleasure-grounds and flower- 
gardens, containing upwards of sixty-five acres. The Trent has 
been spread out into a fine lake ; the trees, shrubberies, etc., 
were planted after plans by Brown, the landscape artist of the 
last ceritury. The most attractive parts of the gardens are the 
Italian gardens, the trellis walk, the terrace garden, the par- 
terre, the nursery, and the rainbow walk. Trentham Church 
was completely restored by the Duke of Sutherland in 1844. 
Some parts of the structure now standing are of great age : the 
Norman piers are said to have been built by Ranulf, Eail of 
Chester. A finely-carved oak screen divides the chancel from 
the nave and aisles. It contains also a beautiful memorial to 
Harriet, Duchess of Sutherland. The inscription is by Mr. 
Gladstone. 



296 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 



SECTION XXIII. 

BIRMINGHAM TO DUDLEY, WEDNESBURY, WALSALL, 
LICHFIELD, BURTON-ON-TRENT, AND DERBY. 

RETRACING the journey from Birmingham to Dudley 
Port Junction (already described on page 265), the 
tourist can reach Dudley by the South Staffordshire branch, 
which runs from that town through Walsall to Lichfield, and 
crossing the Trent Valley line, connects Burton-on-Trent and 
Derby with the "toy-shop of the world." 

Dudley 

[Hotels: "Dudley Arms" and "Bush"] 
is a busy manufacturing town, with a population in 1S71 of 
43,782. It is seated in the midst of a fine tract of country, 
somewhat disfigured by the mining operations carried on in th e 
neighbourhood. The district is rich in coal and iron-stone; 
and the view from the passing train, after the shades of 
evening have closed o'er the scene, strikingly reminds the 
traveller of Homer's description of Vulcan's smithy. 

The town received its name from Dud or Dodo, a celebrated 
Saxon chief, who in the year 750 built a castle on the site. 
At the Conquest, William bestowed it on William FitzAns- 
culph, together with forty-four manors within a circuit of eight 
miles, and forty-seven others in different parts of the county. 
That nobleman rebuilt the fortress as a means of protection to 
his new and extensive possessions. The castle was demolished 
in the reign of Henry II. It was subsequently rebuilt ; and 
after playing its part in the various squabbles and feuds by 
which the kingdom was rent during the succeeding centuries, 
was finally dismantled during the civil wars of the 'time of 
Charles I. It then underwent a siege of three weeks' duration. 
It was destroyed by fire in 1750. The disaster was supposed 
to originate in the operations of a gang of coiners concealed 
in the edifice. Its ruins are considered the finest in the county 
of Stafford — for though Dudley is in Worcestershire, the castle 
and grounds are in Staffordshire. An ancestor of Earl Dudley, 
to whom the property belongs, built contiguous to them a 
mansion. The present earl is one of the largest ironmasters 
in the kingdom. 

Dudley was incorporated in 1865, and now sends one member 
to the House of Commons ; its parliamentary limits greatly 



WALSALL. 297 



exceed the boundary of the muncipality, the district repre- 
sented by the u discreet burgess " having in 1871 a population 
of 82,249 souls, nearly double the number of subjects owning 
allegiance to his Worship the Mayor. The town is well built ; 
it consists of a long main street, surrounded by a network of 
smaller ones, occupying the sides of a hill. Its principal 
buildings are the Town Hall, the Court House, and St. 
Thomas's Church, a handsome building in the Early English 
style of architecture. The local Geological Society is pos- 
sessed of a museum, which includes a rich collection of 
trilobites and corals ; and in the centre of the market place is 
a superb fountain, presented to the town by Lord Dudley in 
1867. It cost ^5,000, and was designed by Forsyth. 

The ruins of Dudley Priory, founded in the twelfth century 
by Gervase, grandson of William FitzAnsculph, stand about 
a mile to the west of the castle. They are clad with ivy and 
justly considered interesting. 

Leaving Dudley, we pass through Dudley Port Junction by 
the low level line, and reach Great Bridge and Wednesbury, 
the latter a junction station for Darlaston and Tipton, and a 
place of considerable importance in the iron tr^cb. The next 
station is 

Walsall 

[Hotel : " George "], 
a borough town, with a population of 46,447 within the limits 
of its municipality, and 49,018 in its parliamentary boundary, 
for it returns one representative to the Commons House of 
Parliament. It was a town of some note in Saxon times, and 
played a prominent part in the subsequent history of the 
country, belonging atone time to "king-making Warwick." All 
traces of antiquity have, however, long since disappeared. At 
an early period, it became a thriving business town, on account 
of the facilities which it possessed for obtaining an abundant 
supply of iron and steel. For upwards of a century it has 
been the seat of the saddlery and harness trades, and at the 
present time it is the head-quarters of the makers of saddlers' 
ironmongery, nine-tenths of the bits and stirrups used n the 
kingdom being made here. 

Many of its public buildings are handsome and attractive. 
The parish church has a beautiful spire, which is a conspicuous 
object in the landscape on account of its situation on a lofty 
hill ; its west window of stained glass is especially worthy of 
notice. The church was almost entirely rebuilt in 1821, and 
now contains no trace of the ancient monuments for which it 
was formerly noted. The Grammar School, founded by Queen 



298 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

Mary, numbered Lord Somers and Bishop Hough among its 
scholars. The old Town Hall and Harpur's Almshouses are 
among the other noteworthy edifices. A useful clock, with 
a trophy of cannons taken during the Crimean war at its 
foot, is a noteworthy feature of the square in front of the 
Town Hall. At 

Bushall, 
the next station, is an old Manor House, the seat of the 
Harpur family, whose arms may yet be seen over the gate- 
way. In its churchyard is a quaint epitaph, 

" Within this tomb Charles White doth lie : 
He was six feet and full six inches high ^ 
In his proportion Nature had been kind : 
His symmetry so just, no fault could find." 

Pelsall. Brownhills, and Hammerwich — the next stations- 
are all contiguous to Cannock Chase. Though once a forest in 
which the Mercian and Norman kings had a hunting seat and 
castle, the timber has now all but disappeared, and the district is 
covered with bare heath. The Chase covers an area of thirty- 
six thousand acres, and is rich in coal beds. It was the scene 
of the autumn manoeuvres of the British army in 1873. 

Leaving Hammerwich, we pass Wall, the Etocetum of the 
Romans, where many Roman memorials have been brought to 
light ; among them are coins of the time of Nero and Domitian, 
pavements, bricks, tiles, and pottery. According to Garner, "a 
trench dug northwards through the foundations of the wall from 
which the place is named, and which formerly, in the memory of 
the inhabitants, existed breast high, brought to light the base of 
a square apartment, with walls of strong masonry, and a floor 
of plaster laid on extremely hard concrete. This apartment had 
been plastered and coloured in red, green, yellow, and white, 
with well made stripes." A run of a few miles brings the 
tourist to 

Lichfield 

[Hotels : " George," " Swan," and " Three Crowns "], 
a quiet cathedral town, with no manufactures of any con- 
sequence. Its position in the centre of England, on the two 
great roads to Liverpool and Holyhead, formerly made it a 
place of importance to travellers ; and the fact of its now 
being near a junction between the main line of the London 
and North-Western Railway and the branch which connects 
Birmingham and the " black country " with Burton and Derby 
has to some extent contributed to a retention of this source of 
this profit and animation. The city sends one member to 



Parliament, and contains 7,347 inhabitants. Dr. Johnson gives 
the following derivation of its name : — "Lichfield, * the field of 
the dead,' a city of Staffordshire, so named from murdered Chris- 
tians. Salve magna parens" The massacre thus perpetuated 
took place in the reign of Diocletian. The arms of the corpora- 
tion, consisting of the dead bodies of three men, armed and 
crowned, are supposed to refer to the event. 

The most remarkable building in Lichfield is the far-famed 
Cathedral, dedicated to St, Chad, and well marked on approach- 
ing the city by its three magnificent and lofty spires. It was 
founded in 665, but the present building was not finished till 1296. 
In 1643, when the Puritans under Lord Brooke captured the town, 
the cathedral was much injured. At the restoration it was re- 
paired by Bishop Hacket at a cost of ^20,000. It is 410 feet 
long, the central steeple 260 feet high, and the other two over 
the west front 190 feet. At the west front are also the great 
wheel window and many large figures of Biblical characters. 
The decorated English porches and the choir are worthy of 
notice. The monuments of note are of Bishop Langton and 
Hacket, one of the Stanleys, Johnson, Garrick, Lady Wortley 
Montague, and Mrs. Robinson's Sleeping Children, ascribed 
to Chantrey, Bishop Ryder, by Chantrey, Bishop Lonsdale, 
Dean Howard, Admiral Sir William Parker (one of Nelson's 
captains), Major Hodson, of Delhi notoriety, etc. 

During the Civil War, Lichfield Cathedral was three times be- 
seiged. A tablet of white marble let into the wall of a house in 
Dam Street marks the spot where Lord Brooke fell during the 
first seige. Sir Walter Scott, in Marmion, thus commemorates 
his lordship's death : — 

" Fanatic Brooke 
The fair cathedral stormed and took ; 
But, thanks to God and good St. Chad, 
A guerdon meet the spoiler had. 1 ' 

St. Chad's Church, at Stowe, is in the vicinity of the cell of 
that pious hermit, whose remains, once buried in this church, 
were removed to Lichfield Cathedral, secreted by private 
persons during and after the time of the Commonwealth, and 
are now resting in the Roman Catholic cathedral of St. Chad at 
Birmingham. The Free Library and Museum is a handsome 
structure in the Italian style. St. John's Hospital, built in 1495, 
is a curious specimen of construction, having chimneys projecting 
like buttresses. An institution for the relief of the widows and 
orphans of clergymen, founded by a townsman, named Newton, 
is located in the Cathedral Close. A monument by Westmacott, 
to Mr. Newton's memory, in the south transept of the cathedral, 



300 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

contains an inscription recording his other acts of munificence, 
and especially referring to this, which, it justly adds, "renders 
any other monument unnecessary. " 

The great Dr. Samuel Johnson was born in 1709, at his father's 
house, a bookseller's shop, built on a piece of land belonging 
to the corporation at the corner of Sadler Street. It is a high 
house, resting on two pillars, with pilasters at the corners, and 
a projecting cornice. His statue stands in the market-place, 
fronting the house. In the church of St. Mary, opposite, may 
be seen the register of baptism of the famous doctor. He was 
trained in Edward VI. 's Grammar School, in which Addison, 
Garrick, Bishop Newton, of the Prophecies, Salt, the traveller, 
and other eminent men were also taught. 

Leaving this interesting city, the tourist arrives at the junction 
station, locally known as Trent Valley, to distinguish it from the 
City station. He next reaches 

Alrewas, 
the first station on the route, a small town in the vicinity of 
Needwood Forest belonging to the duchy of Lancaster. Oak 
trees principally form its wood ; the Swilcar Oak, a very ancient 
tree, is 21 feet in girth. Egginton Heath, on which Sir J. Gill 
defeated the Royalists in 1644, is in the neighbourhood, as is 
also Tutbury Castle, on the Dove. The next station is 

Wichnor, 

near which is Wichnor Manor, an estate once held by Sir P. de 
Somerville, under the Earl of Lancaster, the conditions binding 
him to present a flitch of bacon to every married couple who, 
after being married a year and a day, should make oath that they 
had never quarrelled or wished themselves unmarried. Passing 
Barton and Walton station, the tourist arrives at 

Burton-on-Trent 

[Hotels : " Queen's," " George," and " White Hart"], 
a town of 20,378 inhabitants, once famous for its alabaster work, 
situated on the Staffordshire side of the Trent, was formerly con- 
nected with the opposite side of the river by an old straggling bridge 
of thirty-seven arches and 1,545 feet in length. It has, however, 
given place to an elegant modern structure, and its stones have 
been utilised in laying out the recreation ground, which extends 
for a considerable distance along the Derbyshire bank of the 
Trent. The cemetery is near the recreation ground ; it occupies 
the side of a hill, and contains the usual chapels, very prettily 
designed, and some tasteful monuments. The public baths, 



nearer the town, were presented to the governing bodv by 
Messrs. RatclifTe. There are fbui' churches in Burton. The 
mother church, dedicated to St. Modwena, occupies the site of 
an ancient edifice and stands in a pretty retired churchyard, 
sloping down to the banks of the Trent. The others are : 
Trinity Church, whose west window, of singularly beautiful 
tracery, is filled with good painted glass ; St. Paul's ; and St. 
John's, erected and endowed by Mr. Bass, who has recently 
built a commodious vicarage. Burton Abbey, founded by an 
Earl of Mercia in 1002, was formerly of some extent, and so 
wealthy as to be considered by the turbulent barons of former 
days "a howlet's nest worth the harrying." Only a portion of 
its gateway is now to be seen. An old mill occupies the site of 
one mentioned in the Domesday Book, founded in 1004. 

Burton has long been famed for its ales, so much so that 
Henry d'Avranches, poet laureate to Henry III., wrote, 

"Of this strange drink, so like the Stygian lake 
(Men call it ale), I know not what to make." 

This description, however, is not at all applicable to the celebrated 
pale ales, manufactured at the extensive breweries of Messrs. Bass, 
Allsopp, Worthington, and many others. They are drinks much 
sought after, whose popularity increases year after year, while 
extensive areas of land may be seen covered with the casks, 
empty or full, employed in their storage. There are about 
twenty-five brewing firms, who together occupy several hundred 
acres of land. The breweries, cooperages, and malting offices 
are enormous buildings, solid, bold, and well constructed. Over 
twenty miles of railways cross and recross the streets of Barton 
to convey thither the materials of which the ale is manufactured, 
and to take it away, when made. Almost all the inhabitants are 
engaged in some measure in these vast establishments. Bass and 
Co. employ upon their works, which cover an area of a 
hundred and thirty acres, upwards of 2,000 persons ; they have 
seven miles of private railway, and use in the business 600,000 
casks, consuming not less than 250,000 quarters of malt. 

Cotton goods and hardware are also manufactured here. Five 
miles to the north-west of this town is the gate and other remains 
of Tutbury Castle, overhanging the Dove, from which the military 
chest of the Earl of Lancaster was fished up in 1831 ; it was 
supposed to have been dropped by him when flying from his 
sovereign. Here John of Gaunt kept his court, and appointed 
a king of the minstrels, whose successors retain office to the 
present day. Mary, Queen of Scots, was a prisoner in Tutbury 
Castle for some years. 

Leaving Burton we pass Willington station, and arrive at 



302 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

Derby. 
[Hotels: "Royal," "County," "York," " Denvent," and "St, James's."] 

Derby is a very ancient town, although but few signs of its 
antiquity are left for observation. It was probably in existence 
before the invasion of the Romans, and the Roman station, 
Derventicii was in its neighbourhood. It was inhabited by the 
Danes, and was the theatre of contests between the Danes 
and the Saxons. The town was a royal borough in the time 
of Edward the Confessor, in the tenth century. Derventia 
was on the site of Little Chester, a hamlet immediately 
beyond the borough, on the other side of the river; and Dr. 
Stukely, in the early part of last century, was able to trace its 
wall quite round, and to ascertain that the enclosure had been 
oblong, and contained five or six acres. Coins of brass, silver, 
and gold have been found from time to time. Other ancient 
remains are occasionally met with. Foundations of buildings 
are sometimes laid bare ; and there are the vestiges of a Roman 
bridge over the Denvent at this point, which may be seen when 
the water is clear. The name is thought, by some antiquarians, 
to be derived from the Danish Deorby (the Town on the 
Water). Others contend for the derivation Deertown, which 
is partially supported by the fact of the borough arms con- 
taining the representation of a deer. The town contains 
nearly 62,000 inhabitants. 

Prince Charles Edward penetrated as far as Derby in his 
adventurous march upon London during the rebellion of 1745. 
Here the leaders of the expedition lost all hope of success ; 
and though the advanced guard occupied Swarkestone-Bridge, 
the retreat of the main body of 5,000 men — a retreat which 
ended so disastrously for the adherents of Charles Edward — 
commenced from this ancient borough. Few antiquities are to 
be found in Derby. 

The first silk-mill in England was erected in Derby by 
Lombe, in 1718; and the town has since maintained her 
supremacy in the manufacture of that fabric. The old mill 
in which John Lombe set up his machinery for the spinning or 
"throwing" silk still stands in Eag Lane. It is now the pro 
perty of the corporation ; it cost Lombe in the first instance 
^30,000. The machinery used was not an English invention, but 
was obtained surreptitiously from the Italian manufacturers. This 
enterprising man entered into their employment as a common 
workman and, at the risk of his life, made drawings of the machi- 
nery employed and bribed Italian workmen to accompany him 
to England. He is said to have been the victim of a poisoner 
sent for the purpose from Italy. The topographer, Hutton, 



worked in Lombe's silk-mill. In Derby, also, was the first 
calico mill built by Arkwright in 1 773. Old Derby china is 
much sought after by collectors. 

The town has also a good reputation for hosier} 7 , cotton, 
and agricultural machinery. The municipal population is 
49,793 ; the parliamentary, 61,358. 

From an architectural point of view, All Saints' Church 
was, according to Hutton, the local historian, " the chief 
excellence, the pride of the place." This can now be said 
of the pinnacled tower only, which dates from the reign of 
Henry VII. The body of the church was rebuilt in the last 
century, in the Italian style, with the worst possible taste. 
With its mean-looking windows, plain entablature and cornice, 
and long, low, horizontal outline, it is singularly out of place 
beneath the magnificent buttressed and pinnacled tower, 
which is built in the Decorated Gothic style, with its cano- 
pied and ground niches, its recessed doorway, quatrefoiled 
panelling, and elegant windows with crocketed tracery. 
The most interesting portion of the interior is the Cavendish 
chapel, in the south aisle of the chancel, wherein are many 
curious tombs of members of that illustrious family. The 
other churches of note are St. Alkmund's, a new church, the 
Gothic spire of which is 205 feet high ; St. Peter's, a venerable 
ivy-mantled edifice, in the Perpendicular style ; St. Andrew's ; 
and the Roman Catholic chapel of St. Mary, one of the best 
of Pugin's designs. 

The Town Hall is good of its kind; it has an elegant clock 
and bell-tower, supported on arches of massive design, beneath 
which is an entrance to the new market and municipal hall. 
This and the Athenaeum are the chief secular buildings. The 
latter is a very fine structure, comprising within its entire front- 
age the Royal Hotel, from which there is an entrance by fold- 
ing doors. The Arboretum, presented to the town by Joseph 
Strutt, Esq., the. brother of Lord Belper, is a plot of ground 
of sixteen acres, tastefully laid out in flower-beds, arbours, 
shrubberies, and pleasant grass-bordered walks. There are 
also the Free Baths and Recreation Ground, presented by 
M. T. Bass, Esq., M.P. The new Post Office is a fine build- 
ing; next to it is the Free Library and Museum. The Royal 
Drill Hall contains a fine organ. 

In addition to the celebrated men already mentioned, Derby 
was the native place of Richardson, the novelist ; Dethick, the 
herald ; Joseph Wright, the painter ; and Fox, the machinist. 



N 



304 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 



SECTION XXIV. 

NUNEATON TO LEICESTER, 

Nuneaton. 

[Hotels : " Bull" and " Newdegate arms."] 
UNEATON is a considerable station on the Trent Valley 
main line, the town containing a population of 7,399. 
The chief objects of interest in the neighbourhood are the remains 
of a Priory dating from King Stephen's time, an old Gothic 
Church, and the Grammar School. 
Leaving Nuneaton station, we pass 

Hinckley, 

a town with a population of 6,902, chiefly engaged in the manu- 
facture of cotton stockings. A stocking-frame was introduced 
into Hinckley as early as 1640 by William IlirTe, at a cost of 
;£6o, which was kept going night and day. St. Mary's church, 
dating from the reign of the first Edward, is adorned with a fine 
lofty tower and spire, and is, beside, interesting for its oaken roof. 
Four miles to the north lies the scene of the Battle of Bosworth 
Field, where the army of Richard III. was defeated and himself 
killed in an encounter with Richmond, on August 22nd, 1485. 
The night before the battle, Richard was encamped on Red 
Moor, Richmond on White Moor. Shakespeare describes the 
battle in Richard III., where Catesby exclaims describing 
Richard's daring, — 

" Rescue, my lord of Norfolk ; rescue, rescue ! 
The king enacts more wonders than a man, 
Daring an opposite at every danger ; 
His horse is slain, and all on foot he fights, 
Seeking for Richmond in the throat of death ; 
Rescue, fair lord, or else the day is lost ! " 

King Richard's well, where he refreshed himself, is pointed out 
on the field. 

From Hinckley the traveller will pass through Elmesthorpe, 
and reach 

Narborough, 

which stands on a Roman fosseway. Enderby Hall, close to, 
belonged to the Nevilles. From thence, the tourist passes on to 
Blaby, near which is Aylestone. Aylestone Hall, at present occu- 



LEICES 7 EK. 305 



pied by the agent of the Duke of Rutland, was originally the 
residence of the Vernon family and the Earls of Rutland. 
From Blaby the line proceeds to 

Leicester 

[Hotels: "Wellington," "Railway," "Lion and Lamb," "Bell," "Blue 
Lion," "White Hart," "Georgi" "Stag and Pheasant"], 

a town with a population of 95,220, situated as nearly as 
possible in the middle of England, of much historical and 
archaeological interest. It was said to be founded in 844 B.C. by 
King Lear. The Romans had a station here, called Rate, of 
which many interesting remains are preserved. John of Gaunt 
rebuilt the old castle, which afterwards became the seat of Simond 
de Montfort, Earl of Leicester. This castle stood on twenty-six 
acres of land ; only the great hall, now used as the Assize Hall, 
remains. The Mount, or Castle View, and the Newarke formed 
part of the castle enclosure. Another interesting relic consists 
of the walls and gateway of the famous abbey, built by Robert- 
le-Bossli, or Hunchback, in the meadows by the River Soar, in 
which Cardinal Wolsey died. 

" An old man, broken with the cares of state, 
Is come to lay his weary bones among ye ; 
Give him a little earth for charity." 

In 1 1 73, William Rufus, as a punishment of Hugh de Grent- 
maisnell, Earl of Leicester, for a revolt in favour of Robert, 
demolished the castle, the adjoining church, and a great part of 
the town. The Barons of England met in Leicester in 1201 and 
1224. In 1426 the Parliament of Bats, so called from the mem- 
bers being armed with wooden weapons in lieu of swords, was 
held in this town. 

Richard III. slept at Leicester before the battle of Bosworth 
at the Blue Boar Inn, since demolished. He was brought to the 
town to be buried ; one of the houses bears the inscription, "Here 
lie the remains of Richard III., King of England." The stone 
coffin in which his body was interred for some time formed the 
horse-trough at the inn. 

In 1644, 10,000 troops of King Charles I. invested Leicester. 
After a siege stubbornly resisted by the townspeople in the 
interest of the Parliament, it was finally taken by assault The 
town was given up to pillage, 700 persons were killed, and 140 
wagon loads of spoils were taken to Newark. 

The most curious object of antiquity found in Leicester is the 
Jewry wall, one of the most perfect relics of the period of thd 
Roman occupation found in Great Britain. Its name is traced 
to the time of Jewish persecutions, when Jews were forbidden to 



live in any other part of Leicester than the neighbourhood of 
this wall. It is composed of rubble, forest stone, and occa- 
sional courses of thin Roman brick. Its eastern front consists 
of four solid arches, or recesses, with an intermediate niche of 
brickwork. The western face is unfortunately hidden by a manu- 
factory. In this portion are two other vaulted recesses. These 
are said to be the remains of the crypt of the temple of Janus, and 
the burying-place of King Lear. The city gates were very near ; 
in fact, the remains of an immense block of buildings have been 
discovered in the vicinity, forming the chief public edifices of a 
Roman town. Amongst the relics found near have been ancient 
flues and other masonry, bone hair-pins, coins of Vespasian, and 
bricks, variously figured with impressions of human feet, and the 
feet of cows, sheep, wolves, wild boars, etc. In 1793 the great 
Roman cloaca, or underground watercourse of the town, was 
discovered between the Jewry wall and the river. 

St. Nicholas Church, built of the materials of the Roman wall, 
is the oldest of the churches in Leicester. What remains of the 
first structure, including the tower, the north wall of the nave, 
and one of the south doors, is in the Tudor style. The arches 
are made of the thin Roman bricks. All Saints Church dates 
from the eleventh century. In the west front there is a curious 
clock, having two figures which strike the hours with hammers. 
The Church of St. Mary de Castro is distinguished by its tall 
spire and half Norman character of architecture. It has a fine 
timber roof. It was in this church that Henry VI. passed the 
night according to usage previous to being knighted by his uncle, 
the Duke of Bedford. In it are memorials of Simon de Montfort, 
John of Gaunt, Chaucer, and Wycliffe. There are several other 
churches of interest in Leicester. A very fine collection of Roman 
antiquities may be seen in the town museum. The hospitals are, 
some of them, of very ancient foundation. Trinity Hospital was 
founded in 1331 ; Wigg estone Hospital in 15 13 — the latter is a 
very wealthy corporation. The Town Hall contains, besides 
some old paintings, the town library, a collection originally 
attached to St. Martin's hurch, containing some literary curio- 
sities. It is open to strangers. 

A handsome clock tower, n3ar the Market-Place perpetuates 
the memory of four of Leicester's worthies — Simon de Montfort, 
Sir Thomas White, William of Wiggestone, and Alderman 
Newton. 

The manufacture of hosiery is the staple trade of Leicester, 
affording sustenance to about 50,000 souls. Hand-knitting was 
practised from a very early period. The invention of the stocking- 
frame is attributed to the Rev. W. Lee, about the end of the six- 
teenth century. It is said that he was deeply in love with a 



young townswoman and courted her for .a wife ; but experienced 
such an aversion to knitting by hand, in consequence of the lady 
being more mindful of her work than of the addresses of her 
admirer, that he determined to contrive a machine that should 
turn out work enough to render the common knitting a gainless 
employment. With this incentive, he produced the first stocking- 
frame, in 1589. He laid his invention before the courts of Eliza- 
beth and James I. ; but getting no royal favour, betook himself, 
his workmen, and his frames to Rouen, but finally died in great 
want. Machinery was applied to the stocking-frame by Jedediah 
Strutt ; and to him the great development of this manufacture is 
due. The stocking- frame was introduced into Leicester under 
great difficulties and persecutions by one Allsop, who began 
business in North-gate Street in 1670. At present about 12,000 
frames are in use in Leicester weaving stockings. These frames 
do not belong to the workmen, as a rule, but are let out at a 
weekly rental by the manufacturers or independent persons. 

The making of elastic web is another staple industry ot 
Leicester; it is of but recent introduction, dating only about thirty 
years back. The raw material, caoutchouc, is first dissolved 
and made into sheets and then cut with surprising precision 
into threads ; these are covered with silk, cotton, etc. Vul- 
canised india-rubber, a preparation of caoutchouc and sulphur, by 
which the material is made elastic at all temperatures, was intro- 
duced a few years after and led to the great development of this 
trade. In 1850 the weekly production of "gusset webs " for the 
sides of boots and shoes was little over 100 yards ; now several 
manufacturers make many thousands of yards per day. 

Another business which has progressed side by side with the 
elastic web trade is the manufacture of boots and shoes. This 
was begun in Leicester with the employment of about a score 
of hands in making children's strap shoes. The trade was 
afterwards enlarged by the introduction of pegged boots, and 
now it is estimated that upwards of 20,000 hands in and aroui d 
this town are thus employed. One house alone produces from 
2,500 to 3,000 pairs of boots and shoes per day. 

The objects of note around Leicesterinclu.de : — Baggrave Mali ; 
Kirkby Mallory, where the Noels are buried ; Bradgate House 
and Park, the seat of the Earl of Stamford ; Rothley Temple, 
once the seat of a preeeptory of the Templars ; Quorndon House, 
the seat of the Farnhams ; and Quorndon Hall, where the famous 
Quorn hounds were kennelled. At Sixhill, or Segshill, the fosse- 
way, high and paved, is plainly distinguishable. 



3o8 LONDON AXD NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 



SECTION XXV. 

RUGBY TO STAMFORD. 

'"PHIS branch for nearly the whole of its course traverses the 
-*~ line of boundary dividing the counties of Leicester and 
Rutland from Northampton. Leaving the important junction, 
Rugby, already described on page 274, the tourist passes Clifton 
Mill station and arrives at 

Lilboume, 

the ancient Tripojitium, where Watling Street crossed the Avon. 
On the road to "Welford, Stanford Hall, the seat of Baroness 
Braye, of the Cave family, is passed. x\bout four miles and a 
half to the east is Naseby Hall, near to the place where Crom- 
well defeated Charles I. and Prince Rupert. Passing Yelvertoft, 
Welford, Theddingworth, and Lubenham stations, 

Market Harborough 

[Hotels : " Angel," " Three Swans," " George Inn," and " Hind Inn "] 
is reached. This is a town of 2,362 inhabitants, where Charles 
I. fixed his head quarters immediately before the battle of Naseby. 
Th.re is still shown an old house, now divided into three, in which 
that ill fated monarch slept. Close by is the Grammar School, an 
old foundation dating from 1 61 3, endowed by one Robert Smyth, 
of London. Below the house is a space used as a butter market, 
the building being supported on pillars. St. Dionysius' Church 
is a beautiful structure, in perpendicular Gothic, with a notable 
tower and spire. The church consists of two distinct portions : 
one, the chancel and tower of the fourteenth century, and the 
other, the nave and aisles of the fifteenth century. In either aisle 
is a window of the fourteenth century, probably preserved from 
the old structure ; and the pitch of the old nave is still visible in 
the tower. Two chambers over porches on the south and north 
sides are said to have been the abodes of anchorites. Market 
Harborough was harried by Prince Rupert during the Civil War. 
The Nonconformists of the town, at the Restoration, showed con- 
siderable hardihood in maintaining their religious views. Their 
meetings were held at night, the minister and congregation 
standing for hours in the water, under Chain Bridge, to elude 
the vigilance of informers. The town is thought to be of Roman 
rrigin, and there are traces of a Reman camp in the neighbour- 
hood. Antique pottery has been found in considerable quantities 



MEDBOURNE BRIDGE, ETC—STAMFORD. 309 

in the church of St. Mary's, now used as a mortuary chapel. 
The neighbourhood abounds in pasture land of a very superior 
quality, the metropolitan and other cattle markets deriving a 
considerable portion of their supply from thence. Market Har- 
borough was formerly the seat of an extensive manufactory of 
woollen goods and carpets, but now its only industry is the con- 
struction of stays and corsets. It is, however, much frequented 
by the followers of Nimrod. 

Medbourne Bridge 

is the next station ; it occupies the site of an old Roman post on 
the Via Devana from Colchester to Chester. Coins have been 
found in the surrounding fields. Three miles to the north-east 
of Medbourne Bridge, at Nevill Holt, are large beds of volitic 
iron ore, blasting furnaces, and a noted chalybeate spring. 
The next stage on the route is 

Rockingham. 

Hotel : " Sondes Arms."] 

At Rockingham Castle, formerly the seat of the late Lord 
Sondes, are seen the remains of a fortress built by the Con- 
queror. In the Civil War it was garrisoned for the King, 
and suffered considerably. Rockingham Forest was about thirty 
miles long. About four miles to the east is Deane Park, the 
seat of the Cardigan family. The possessor of the title before 
the late Earl was the hero of the famous charge of the light 
cavalry at Balaclava. He was killed in 1S6S by a fall from his 
horse. 

The line passes the stations of Seaton and Luffenham, and 
arrives at 

Stamford 

[Hotels ; "George " and " Stamford "j, 
an ancient borough town of about 8,000 inhabitants, in the county 
of Lincoln. This town is of considerable archaeological interest 
and is of a remarkably picturesque appearance. The Church 
of St. Martin's contains the remains of Richard Cecil and 
his wife, the parents of Lord Burleigh. There is a splendid 
monument to William Cecil, Baron Burleigh. St. Mary's, St. 
John's, St. George's, and All Saints Churches are worthy of 
observation. Here Hengist routed the Picts, and Alfred allowed 
the Danes to live. The town suffered greatly during the wars of 
the Roses. Burleigh House, the seat of the Marquis of Exeter, 
is in the neighbourhood. 



*io LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 



SECTION XXVI. 

ELISWOETH TO STRATFOBD-OSr-AVON. 

THE pilgrim who desires to visit the birthplace and tomb of 
"sweetest Shakespeare, Fancy's child," who "was not of 
an age, but for all time," may utilise a little railway, some 
twenty-six miles in length, running from Blisworth, along a 
pleasing and fertile country, to Stratford-on-Avon. There is little 
of interest on the way. 

Toweester 

has some pretensions to antiquity, having remmants of old walls, 
and ancient coins having been found there. A line to Banbury 
and Buckingham (see pages 327-8) branches off at this station. 

Blakesley, Morton Pinkney, Byfield, and Fenny Compton are 
altogether devoid of any feature calling for special mention ; while 

Kineton, 

the next station, war, once a place of note, pleasantly situated on 
the banks of a stream which falls into the Avon. It derived its 
name from a market for the sale of kine, or black cattle, formerly 
held at the town ; and was the site of a castle where King John 
held his court, a neighbouring spring still rejoicing in the name 
of King John's Well 

But any interest which may accrue from such matters is dwarfed 
into nothingness by the attractions of the town, which will be 
the bourne of many a traveller's journey till time shall be no more. 
After passing Ettington, we reach 

Stratford-on-Avon 

[Hotels : '* Shakespeare," " Red Horse," and " Falcon"], 

"Where his first infant lays sweet Shakespeare sung 1 , 
Where his last accents faltered on his tongue." 

Stratford is a perfect model of an English countiy town — a 
quiet sunn} r place, on the banks of the Avon. The inhabitants 
number 7,343. It has an ancient and honourable history, 
dating from the Saxon era, and obtained a charter of incor- 
poration from Edward VI. It was, too, the site of a monastery. 
It had its fairs and markets, and its feast upon the festival of 
Holy Trinity; and records of great fires which occurred in its 
bounds are extant. But all this is quite lost sight of beside 






f f 8 




i i * 




ill <- 


1 

'l 


11 2 




■ 1 



STRA TFORD-ON-A VON. 



3" 



the paramount interest attaching to it as the birth and 
burial-place of " gentle Master Shakespeare," a title given 
by the learned and accurate Ben Jonson, which shows that 
Shakespeare was considered to rank as a gentleman. The 
house in which the "sweet Swan of Avon " drew his first 




Interior of Shakespeare's House 



breath is a beautiful old half-timbered building in Henley 
Street. It has, however, undergone many changes since the 
time when the immortal bard may be imagined as a school- 
boy, 

" With his satchel 
And shining morning face, creeping like a snail 
Unwillingly to school." 



312 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

It has been a butcher's shop and a public-house, has been in 
danger of disappearing piecemeal at the hands of relic-hunting 
Vandals, and had a narrow escape of being transported entire 
to America by a speculative showman. Happily for the 
honour of the country, the house was bought in at the 
auction by a committee of gentlemen. It consists of three 
apartments on the ground floor, the first of which was the 
butcher's shop when purchased in 1847. O n one s ^ e * s a 
small room, and beyond it the old kitchen. Passing up a 
winding wooden staircase, the room in which Shakespeare was 
born is entered. The walls are completely covered with names 
and inscriptions, in every language, by pilgrims of all nations, 
ranks, and conditions, from the prince to the peasant, and 
present a simple but striking instance of the spontaneous and 
universal homage of mankind to the great poet of nature. 
Many of the signatures are appended to verses, good and bad 
■ — especially bad. Among the most noticeable names on the 
walls, the glass of the windows, and in the visitors' book, are 
those of Byron, Scott, Washington Irving, George IV., 
William IV., the Prince of Orange, the Duke of Wellington, 
Tom Moore, Mrs. Hernans, Jane Porter, and Charles Dickens. 
In the room off the bedchamber is a fine oil-colour portrait of 
the poet; it is considered a true likeness of the greatest of 
all artists who " held the mirror up to nature." 

From the birth-place of Shakespeare the tourist will proceed 
to the Grammar School, near which is the site of the house in 
which he died. This and the famous mulberry-tree, which 
the poet planted with his own hand in the garden, no longer 
exist, thanks to the Rev. Francis Gastrell, whose name would 
scarcely have descended to posterity were it not for the 
infamous act of Vandalism by which he first cut down the 
tree and subsequently razed the house to the ground. The 
assigned reason for the former act was that he was, 
"pestered" by visitors, and for the latter that the place 
was " too highly assessed." The tree was sold to a jeweller, 
who manufactured various articles out of it ; if one may 
judge from the number and variety of those articles, the tree 
must have been an unusually large one. 

The Town Hall, which is also in this part of the town, was 
dedicated in 1769 to the memory of the bard at the " Shake- 
speare Jubilee." Within a niche on the north side is a statue 
presented by Garrick; on the pedestal are the lines from 
Hamlet— 

" Take him for all in all, 
We shall not look upon his like again." 

Last, but not least, comes Stratford Church, a large and 



STRA 7 FORD- ON- A VON. 



venerable cruciform structure, consisting of a nave with side 
aisles, a transept, a chancel, and square battlemented tower. 
The church is charmingly situated on the river bank ; and 
though, owing to alterations at different periods, it consists 
of various styles, there is no incongruity in the tout ensemble. 
But, as Irving says, " The mind refuses to dwell on anything 




Shakespeare's Monument. 

that is not connected with Shakespeare, This idea pervades 
the place ; the whole pile seems but as his mausoleum, The 
feelings, no longer checked and thwarted by doubt, here 
indulge in perfect confidence ; other traces of him may be 
false or dubious, but here is palpable evidence and absolute 
certainty." Shakespeare's monument adorns the doorway 
on the left of the chancel. He is represented writing upon a 
cushion, and a Corinthian pillar on either side supports a 
tablet bearing his coat of arms and the figures of two 
children. Underneath are inscribed, in Latin and English, 



" IVDICIO PYLIVM, GENIO SOCRATEM, ARTE MARONEM, 
TERRA. TEGIT, POPVLVS MCERET, OLYMPVS HABET." 

"STAY PASSENGER ; WHY GOEST THOV BY SO FAST? 
READ IF THOV CANST, WHOM ENVIOVS DEATH HATH PLAST 
WITHIN THIS MONVMENT l SHAKSPEARE, WITH WHOME 
QVICK NATVRE DIDE ; WHOSE NAME DOTH DECK YS TOMBE 
FAR MORE THAN COST: SITH ALL YT HE HATH WRITT 
LEAVES LIVING ART BVT PAGE TO SERVE HIS WITT. 

"Obiit. Ano. Doi. 1616: 
"iEtatis53. Die 23 Ap." 

The bust was originally painted to resemble life. The eyes 
were of a light hazel, the hair and beard auburn, the doublet 
scarlet, and the sleeveless gown black. But Malone, one of 
Shakespeare's numerous editors, having obtained permission 
.0 take a cast of the bust, injured it, and was then allowed to 
paint it white. Referring to this, a justly indignant pilgrim 
wrote in the visitors' album, 

" Stranger, to whom this monument is shown, 
Invoke the poet's curse upon Malone, 
Whose meddling zeal his barbarous taste betrays. 
And daubs his tombstone as he mars his plays \" 

11 The poet's curse " is that engraved on the plain flagstone 
which covers his last resting-place : — 

"Good frexd for Iesvs sake forbeare 
to digg the dvst excloased heare : 
Blest be ye man yt stares thes stones, 
axd cvrst be he yt moves my boxes." 

Of late } r ears, the bust has been restored to its original condition. 

The tourist should also visit the neighbouring village of 
Shottery, to see the cottage in which Shakespeare wooed and 
won Ann Hathaway, his wife ; and Charlecote, the seat of 
the Lucy family. The then owner, Sir Thomas Lucy, may 
be accredited, in a great measure, with setting the bard on 
the road to fortune, for, being implicated in a raid upon the 
good knight's game, he was spoken harshly to by Sir Thomas. 
The future poet, resenting this, wrote and attached to Charle- 
cote gate a lampoon, in consequence of which Stratford became 
too hot for him and he had to escape to London. That he did 
not lightly forget his fancied wrong, however, is proved by 
his subsequent satire on the knight in the Merry Wives of 
tVindsor, where Sir Thomas is immortalized as Justice 
Shallow. 

On leaving Stratford, the tourist for the north can enjoy a 
delightful drive of some nine or ten miles to Warwick, and after 
visiting that town and the fashionable inland watering-place of 
Leamington (see pages 2S1-9) can continue his journey, rid 



Birmingham and Stafford. Bidding farewell to Stratford, at a 
distance of about a mile, Welcombe Lodge, which takes its name 
from the hills by which it is surrounded, presents itself to view. 
The old lodge, where in Shakespeare's day the Combe family 
resided, and where it is said the poet was a frequent visitor, has 
long been dismantled, and on its site a mansion in the Eliza- 
bethan style has been erected. The Welcombe Hills were for- 
merly the scene of fierce contests between the Britons and Saxons, 
and the extensive entrenchments known as the "Dingles" are 
easily traceable, surrounding a large mound, which probably 
served as a place of encampment. Longbridge House, the 
ancestral mansion of the Stauntons, is the next object of interest 
by the main road, while a more circuitous route takes the tra- 
veller through Charlecote, Hampton Lucy, Wasperton, and 
Barford. 

Should the tourist desire further information on the subject, 
he will do well to consult Shaw's Shilling Guide to the district. 
It may, however, be well to state that Shakespeare's birthplace 
is open on week-days from nine in the morning till seven in the 
evening, during summer ; it closes at dusk in the winter. On 
Sundays the house is open from nine to ten a.m., and from two 
to three p. m. Admission sixpence. 



SECTION XXVII. 

ELI8W0RTH, via NORTHAMPTON, TO PETERBOROUGH 

LEAVING Blisworth, by a branch running in an easterly 
direction, the tourist arrives at 

Northampton 

[Hotels : "Angel," " George," and " Peacock"], 
the seat of the boot and shoe manufactures, containing a popu- 
lation of from 40,000 to 50,000, chiefly engaged in this trade. 
It is one of the principal towns of the midland district, and of 
great interest to the student of history. 

It was an important centre in the time of the Conqueror, and 
is the Z\onh-/ij/npto;i of the Domesday Book. From the twelfth 
to the fourteenth century twenty parliaments were held in this 
town. At one of them, held in 1 179, burgesses were ordered to be 
sent from the towns, constituting the germ of the present House 
of Commons. Five years earlier the clergy were made subject, 



3i6 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

in another parliament, to the civil law. The university was 
transferred to Northampton from Oxford on one occasion, in 
consequence of disputes in the latter city. The castle was built 
by Simon de St. Liz, at the Conquest, and was held by the 
tenure of shoeing the king's horses. De Montford defended the 
castle against Henry II., who took it by stratagem. With the 
exception of a round tower, it was entirely demolished in 1662. 
The Hospital of St. John, in St. John's Lane, was founded by the 
St. Liz family, late in the twelfth century. Another old hospital, 
founded in honour of Thomas a Becket in the middle of the 
fifteenth century, is situated near South Gate. A large modern 
hospital, recently enlarged, stands on the east side of the town and 
overlooks the valley and Peterborough branch and Delapre Abbey. 
A noted lunatic asylum overlooks the same valley. 

The beautiful St. Sepulchre Church, lately restored, is one of 
the most interesting in Northampton. It was built by the 
Knights Templars on the plan of the sepulchre at Jerusalem, 
that is, with a round body which becomes octagonal above the 
massive columns. In the chancel and aisles are additions in 
the Early and Later English styles. St. Sepulchre is one of the 
four existing churches in England, built by this celebrated order, 
Other notable churches are St. Giles's ; All Saints, restored 
1866 ; St. Peter's, within the castle precincts, about which are 
some grotesque heads and carvings ; and a Roman Catholic 
chapel, built by Pugin in 1844, called St. Felix. 

There are several important public edifices worthy of note. 
These include the Town Hall, a Gothic edifice built in 1863; the 
Shire Hall, containing portraits of the sovereigns from William 
III. ; the Corn Exchange, built in 1851 ; the Town Gaol and 
County Gaol ; and the Grammar School. 

Many celebrated men are connected with the history of North- 
ampton. Spencer Perceval, who was assassinated in 18 12 in the 
lobby of the House of Commons, once lived here. His statue, by 
Chantrey, may be seen in All Saints Church, and a portrait by 
Joseph in the Town Hall. Doddridge once kept an academy here. 
Hervey, author of Meditations among the Tombs, was educated 
in the Grammar School. Dr. Ryland was minister for thirty 
years in a chapel in College Street. 

Near the town is a famous race-course. The race ground, an 
area of 1 1 7 acres, is used in summer by the cricket club. 

The neighbourhood of Northampton is of great interest. A 
series of Saxon and Danish camps occupied the hill tops around. 
Delapre Abbey, the seat of the Bouverie family, is in Harding- 
stone parish ; near to is one of the many memorials built by 
Edward I. at every spot where the body of his wife rested on its 
way to ^Yestminister. The Queen Eleanor's Cross is a three 



CASTLE JS//BV, ETC.— PETERBOROUGH. 317 

storied, octangular Gothic structure ; it was repaired about a cen- 
tury ago. Near to this relic Henry VI. was defeated and made 
prisoner by Warwick in 1460. At Althorp Park, the seat of 
Earl Spencer, is a famous library and picture gallery. 

Many other noblemen's seats are scattered around this impor- 
tant centre, leaving which the train passes through Billing Road 
station to 

Castle Ashby, 
where is the seat of the Marquis of Northampton, a structure 
dating from 1625, but built on the site of an older castle. Many 
valuable oil paintings are collected in the picture gallery. The 
Yardley Chase domain belonging to it is twenty-seven miles 
round. The next station, 

Wellingborough 

[Hotels : " Angel " and " Hind "]. 
is near a town of the same name, containing 9,385 inhabi- 
tants. It is noted for its medicinal springs, which induced 
Charles I. and his queen, Henrietta, to reside in the town for a 
whole season in order to drink its waters. The manufacture^ of 
boots, shoes, and lace form the principal industries. 
Pacing Ditchford station, we reach 

Higham Ferrers 

(population 1,232), the birthplace of Archbishop Chicheley, 
founder of All Souls' College, Oxford, and a seat of the manu- 
facture of boots and shoes. From thence pass through Ring- 
stead, Thrapston, Thorpe, and Barnewell stations to 

Oundle 

[Hotels : " Dolphin " and " Talbot "], 
a town within three miles of Fotheringay Castle, built in the 
reign of William I. by Simon de St. Liz. Here Richard III. 
was born, and the ill-fated Mary Queen of Scots was tried and 
executed in 1580. The castle was subsequently demolished by 
her son, James I.; a mound alone now marks its site. The 
population of Oundle is 2,829. 

Passing Elton, Wansford, Castor, and Overton stations, we 
reach the cathedral city of 

Peterborough 

[Hotels : '' Angel" and " Crown "], 
containing a population of 17,434, is situated on the River Nene. 
The principal object of interest is the Cathedral. An abbey was 
founded here in about 660 by the Mercian kings. It was rebuilt 



318 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

after the Norman Conquest and dedicated to St. Peter, whence 
the name of the town. Its length is 464 feet, the height of the 
tower is 150 feet. The choir, transept, nave, and abbey gate 
were built before 1200. The west front, 160 feet broad, is of later 
date, and is comprised of three lofty Early English recessed 
arches. The lady or east chapel was erected in 15 18. 
Eccket's chapel is in the middle of the front. Catharine of 
Arragon, one of the wives of Henry VIII. , was buried here ; as 
was also Mary Queen of Scots, but the latter was removed to 
Westminster by James I. A pilgrimage to the shrine of Peter- 
borough was at one time considered equal to one to Rome. The 
cloisters cover a space of 130 to 140 feet square. There are 
numerous effigies and portraits of abbots, etc., in the church, 
and many of the windows are of stained glass. 

Dr. Paley was born at Peterborough in 1743. 

The surrounding country is flat and uninteresting, but many 
noblemen's seats are in the neighbourhood. Among these are 
Milton Abbey, the seat of Earl Fitzwilliam. Blatherwycke, 
Elton Hall, Thorpe Hall, the residence of the Marquis of Huntley 
at Overton- Longeville, etc. 



SECTION XXVIII. 

BLETCHLEY, via BEDFOEB, TO CAMBEIBGE. 

ON page 276 we have already alluded to Bletchley, leaving 
which station we reach Fenny Stratford, where the Watling 
Street, or old Roman Way, crosses the Ouse. At Stony Stratford, 
near to this place, Richard III. seized his nephew Edward V. 
The next station is 

Woburn Sands. 

[Hotel : " Bedford Arms."] 
In the neighbourhood is Woburn Abbey, the seat of the Duke 
of Bedford, built upon the site of a Cistercian foundation. 
When the old buildings were taken down to make way for the 
present structure, human remains, enclosed in stone coffins, were 
found in a state of remarkable preservation. Royalty twice 
paid the abbey visits — Elizabeth, in 1572, and Charles I., 1645. 
Picture and sculpture galleries are attractive points in this 
mansion. The park is twelve miles in circuit and is noted 



AM FT II ILL— BEDFORD. 3 1 9 

for its large herds of deer. The population of Woburn Sands is 
Passing Ridgmont and Lidlington stations, 
Ampthill 

[Hotels : " King's Arms," " King's Head," and "White Hart"] 
is reached ; the town has a population of over 2,300. Ampthill 
Park was formerly the seat of Lord Holland ; latterly it was the 
seat of Baron Park, Lord Wensleydale, whose widow now lives 
there. Ampthill Castle was the residence of Queen Catherine 
after her divorce from Henry VIII. A cross in memory of the 
wrongs done to Catherine now occupies the site of the castle. 
The following lines, written by Horace Walpole, occur on the 
monument : — 

" In days of old, here Ampthill's towers were seen, 
The mournful refuge of an injured Queen ; 
Here flowed her pure but unavailing tears ; 
Here blinded zeal sustained her sinking years. 
Yet Freedom here her radiant banner waved, 
And Love avenged a realm by priests enslaved, 
From Catherine's wrongs a nation's bliss was spread, 
And Luther's light from Henry's lawless bed," 

Leaving this station we reach 

Bedford 

[Hotels : " Swan," " George," " Rose," and " Red Lien "], 
situate on a ford of the Ouse, whence its name — " the Town on 
the Ford " (population 16,850). 

From its important position Bedford was exposed to all the 
vicissitudes attendant on England's many changes of masters. 
The ford of the river was formerly guarded by a strong castle, 
which was destroyed in the reign of Henry III. The Swan 
Inn occupies a portion of the site, and a bowling-green has been 
constructed out of the ancient keep. Bedford has six churches, 
of which the principal are St. Paul's (containing an effigy of one 
of the Beau champs, who held the castle after the Conquest, and 
a monument of Sir William Harpur, the founder of the many 
charities for which the town is celebrated), and St. Peter's, with 
its noble Norman entrance and stained-glass windows. But for 
many, perhaps, the chair of John Bunyan, the illustrious tinker, 
in Bunyan Meeting (Mill Street), will have pre-eminence 
over every other attraction in this old city. The Pilgrim's Fro- 
gress was composed during Bunyan's twelve years' imprison- 
ment in Bedford Gaol, where he wrote, in his moments of leisure, 
and made tag laces for the support of his family. His birth- 
place was Elstow, about a mile from Bedford. Here his cottage 



320 LONDON ANt) NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 



and forge are still pointed out. The Duke of Bedford recently- 
presented to the town a statue of this, the greatest preacher 
and most original genius of his age. It was uncovered by Dean 
Stanley, and is the work of Mr. Boehm. The figure is in 
"bronze, ca^t from cannon and bells brought from China. 
Banyan is represented preaching, holding in his hands the 
Bible. The pedestal is embellished with three scenes from 
the Pilgrim's Progress. The statue stands on St. Peter's 
Green. The other memorials of Bunyan, to be found in the 
meeting house, with the chair, are his will and a cabinet and 
jug. In the town library is the copy of Foxes Book of Martyrs 
which he had in prison with him. 

Bedford is also noted for its connection with the philan- 
thropist Howard, who was born at Cardington, about two miles 
from the town ; and with Earl Russell, who, at the last general 
election before the passing of the Reform Bill of 1832, was 
rejected as one of its representatives, after a poll which lasted 
for upwards of a week. 

The splendid schools founded by Sir William Harpur have 
given Bedford a wide-spread celebrity ; they are among the 
greatest educational establishments of the land. 

There are numerous remains of religious houses and some 
Roman and Saxon antiquities in the town. 

The agricultural machinery works of Messrs. Howard, whose 
inventions have revolutionized farming processes, form one of the 
sights of Bedford. The Brittannia Iron Works cover an area of 
twenty acres, and form a vast manufactory and storehouse of 
valuable implements. The Bedfordshire Middle Class School 
educates three hundred boys in a spacious building close to the 
line. The George Inn, a house of the fifteenth century, is worth 
seeing. 

Leaving Bedford, the line passes through Blunham station, 
and reaches 

Sandy, 

formerly a military s':ation, and anciently known as Salina. 
Caesar's Camp, an immense hill to the north-east, is supposed to 
be the spot where the Conqueror encamped after sailing up the 
river Ivel from Lyne. 

Passing Potton, Gamiingay, Old North Road, and Lord's 
Bridge, we arrive at 

Cambridge. 

[Hotels : "University Arm;," " R?d Lion," ; ' Bull," " Hoop," " Castle," 
and " Bird-Bolt. "J 

The university buildings, and many associations with the 
great names of yore, must ever invest this town with peculiar 



CAMBRIDGE, 321 



interest. A foundation, dating back from 630, is claimed for 
the university, but the oldest college, St. Peter's, or Peterhouse, 
as it is usually called, in Trumpington Street, can only be referred 
to 1257. The place, however, had obtained a high reputation 
as a seat of learning even in the first years of that century. 

Cambridge is situated on the banks of the Cam, a branch of 
the river Nene. The ground on which it stands is flat ; indeed 
it is a part of the great Fen Level which stretches across 
Cambridgeshire, Norfolkshire, and a part of Lincolnshire. 
The houses are constructed of brick. During its early history 
it was twice ravaged by the Danes, the second time in 1010. 
Seventy-eight years after Roger de Montgomery fell upon the 
town to revenge an insult placed upon him by the Second Wil- 
liam. Once more it fell into the hands of spoilers in 1 2 14, when 
the Barons ravaged it. In the reign of Elizabeth the seventeen 
colleges were constituted an university. During the Civil War 
Cambridge took the royal side, and sen its plate to be melted 
for the use of the army. In 1630 the university was temporarily 
closed in consequence of the ravages of the plague, which took 
off 400 persons. The present population is 33,996, including 
700 persons attached to the university. 

There are seventeen colleges, the principal of which are — 

Trinity College, founded by Henry VIII., which contains 
three fine courts, a noble Tudor hall, gardens, and a library, in 
which are busts of Newton and Bacon, by Roubiliac, a statue of 
Byron, Newton's telescope, some of Milton's MSS., and other 
interesting objects. Bacon, Newton, Barrow, Porson, Bentley, 
Dryden, and Byron were students here. 

Gonville and Caius College, founded partly in 1384, by Edward 
Gonville, and partly by Queen Mary's physician, Dr. Caius, in 
1557, had the honour of educating the eloquent and amiable 
Jeremy Taylor. It has been rebuilt within the last few years, 
and is now one of the handsomest edifices in Cambridge. 

Christ's College, in St. Andrew's Street, founded in 1442, 
contains a court rebuilt by Inigo Jones, and fine gardens, in 
which is Milton's mulberry- tree. Here Milton "scorned delights 
and lived laborious days" in close study. Edward King, the 
subject of Lycidas, was also a student here. 

Emmanuel College, in the same street, was founded in 1584. 
Archbishop Sancroft, whose books are in the library, was a 
student. 

Jesus College and its chapel are worth visiting. Cranmer, 
Sterne, and Coleridge were among those whose names are 
honourably associated with this college. 

Corpus Christi, in Trumpington Street, was Bishop Latimer's 
college ; it contains some good portraits, especially th?se of Sir 

21 



322 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

Thomas .More, Wolsey, Erasmus, and John Foxe, the author of 
the Book of Martyrs. 

Erasmus and Thomas Fuller were students of Queen's College, 
founded by Margaret, Queen of Henry VI., and Elizabeth Wood- 
ville, Queen of Edward IV. 

King's College, founded by Henry VI. , is the c ollege par 
excellence from an architectural point of view. Notice especially 
the interior of the chapel, so much admired by Wren. The 
roof, which is entirely unsupported by pillars, contains twelve 
divisions of exquisitely fine tracery in carved stone ; and the 
windows, twenty-four in number, and each nearly fifty feet in 
height, are tilled with beautifully stained glass. The music on 
Sundays attracts many visitors, and the singing is especially fine. 

St. John's, founded by Margaret, mother of Henry VII., is 
the college most distinguished for mathematical honours. Among 
the long list of bygone celebrities who studied here we may 
mention Ben Jonson, Prior, Wordsworth, Bishop Beveridge, 
William Wilberforce, the great opponent of the slave trade, and 
the unfortunate Henry Kirke White, to whom a memorial tablet 
with a handsome medallion, by Chantrey, was raised in All 
Saints' Church, by Francis Boot, Esq., of Boston, U.S. The 
inscription by Professor Smyth concludes thus : — 

" Far o'er the Atlantic wave 
A wanderer came, and sought the poet's grave ; 
On yon low stone he saw his lonely name, 
And raised this fond memorial to his fame." 

The remaining colleges are St. Katharine's, Clare, Downing, 
Pembroke, Sidney Sussex (of which Cromwell was a graduate), 
Magdalene, and Trinity Hall. The University Buildings (in- 
cluding the library), the Fitzwilliam Museum, the Town Hall, 
the Shire Hall, on the site of the ancient castle of William the 
Conqueror, and the town churches, are also worth seeing. 

Perhaps the greatest beauty of Cambridge is the part called 
the Backs. The name is derived from the fact that in this place 
several of the college gardens slope down to the river bank, 
which is lined with trees, the stream being crossed by several 
handsome bridges. The present population of the town is 34,000. 

The Town Hall, in the Market Place, was built by the eccentric 
Hobson, a carrier and job-master, whose mode of doing business 
gave origin to the famous saying, " Hobson *s choice, this or 
none." Applicants for horses were not allowed to take the 
animal of their choice, but must tane the horse whose turn it 
was to go out, or have none at all. The Shire Hall and Prison 
occupy the site of a structure erected by William the Con- 
queror, to overawe the Saxon defenders of the Isle of Ely. 



S WANB0URNE—WINSL0W—ISL1P* 323 



SECTION XXIX. 

BIETCHLEY TO OXFORD. 

BLETCHLEY is also the junction of a line running to Oxford, 
so that, though but a small place, it forms the connecting link 
between the sister universities and the North- Western system. 
Leaving the junction, the line passes through the station of 

Swanbourne, 

close to which is Whaddon Hall, where Spencer, the poet, 
resided for some time in the capacity of secretary to Arthur, 
Lord Grey ; and serves 

Winslow 

[Hotels : " Bell " and ' c George "] 
(population 1,826), an old market town, given in 794 by King 
Offa to the abbey of St. Alban's. The church is- a venerable 
structure, in the later English style, with a square embattled 
tower. The town was at one time celebrated for the successful 
cultivation of the white poppy, from which opium is manufac- 
tured. The train is divided here for Buckingham and Banbury, 
the branch for which towns leaves the line at Verney Junction, 
whence a short line runs, via Quainton Road, to Aylesbury (see 
page 329). Claydon, the seat of the Verney family, and Launton, 
a manor bestowed upon the chapter of Westminster by Edward 
the Confessor, but recently transferred to the Ecclesiastical Com- 
missioners, are passed ; and 

Bicester 

[Hotels : " King's Arms " and " Crown "] 
is the next station. Here are the remains of a priory dedicated 
to St. Eadburg, and founded in n 82, and also a well which, 
under the name of the same saint, was reputed to possess 
miraculous properties. It has a population of 3,330. The town 
is known for its ale and pillow-lace. At 

Islip, 

the next station, Edward the Confessor was born, in the palace 
of his father, Ethelred II. No traces of this building remain. 
The font used at the'^baptism of the former monarch is now in the 
garden of the rectory. 



Leaving Islip, the traveller reaches the great seat of classic 
learning in England, 

Oxford. 

[Hotels: "Angel," "Clarendon," "Golden Cross," "King's Arms," 
"Mitre," "Roebuck," "Randolph," "Star," " Three Cups," "Three 
Goats," and " Wheatsheaf. "J 

The city stands in a fine extent of level country, termi- 
nating northwards in a range of hills. Its main portion lies 
between the Cherwell and a portion of the Thames, here 
called the Isis. It contains a population of 34,482. The ap- 
pearance of the place from a distance, on account of the 
number of venerable structures in every style of architecture, 
with their domes and spires, is one of great magnificence ; nor 
does it lose its imposing aspect on a nearer approach. The 
number, stateliness, and beauty of the buildings, together 
with their look of antiquity and repose, combine to produce a 
feeling of admiration and a certain amount of awe that will 
not fail to fix the remembrance of Oxford in the mind as a 
thing not to be forgotten. Tradition marks Oxford as the 
seat of a university from the time of Alfred, and it is certain 
that it was the abode of learning even previous to that date. 
The original town, however, was demolished by the Danes, so 
that the absence of all traces of this legendary establishment 
may easily be accounted for. The monasteries founded here 
after the Conquest were famed far and wide for their learning ; 
and, among other alumni, had the honour of instilling into 
Henry I. those seeds of learning which earned for him the 
title of Beauclerc. The most characteristic feature of Oxford's 
history has been its Conservatism, which has always induced it 
to link its fortunes with those of the Crown. 

The plan of the city is that much favoured by the ancient 
Romans — four great streets, converging at a central point 
from the four cardinal points. The central point in Oxford is 
called Carfax, a corruption of Quatre-faces or Quatre-voies. 
The entrance from Magdalen Bridge (east end) affords the finest 
prospect of the city. The public buildings, exclusive of the 
ecclesiastical and university edifices, comprise the Town Hall, 
the County Gaol, near the old tower of the castle, and the 
New Museum, a splendid building inside, though not particu- 
larly striking in external appearance. 

Christchurch Cathedral forms part of the college of the same 
name, and stands on the site of St. Frideswide's Abbey. It 
was commenced in 1120, but converted into a college in 1525 
by VVolsey. The Norman doorway, the cloisters, of Gothic 
architecture, and the spire, in height 144 feet, said to be the 



oldest in England, all command attention. The Church of St. 
Mary is also worthy of notice ; it is an ancient foundation. A 
new aisle, dedicated to the martyrs, Cranmer, Ridley, and 
Latimer, has been recently added to the church. Close by is 
the Martyrs* Cross, seventy-three feet in height, containing 
niches filled by those celebrated bishops. There are numerous 
other churches, claiming notice for their elegance, as well as on 
the scores of antiquity and associations ; but we must pass 
on to the colleges, of which there are nineteen, together with 
five halls. 

University College was founded, according to tradition, by 
King Alfred, but it dates historically only from 1280, when 
the bequest of Durham, Archbishop of Rouen, given to the 
university in 1249, was assigned as an emolument to the 
college, thenceforward styled University College, instead of 
Alfred's Hall. Bishop Ridley and Sir William Jones, the 
celebrated oriental scholar, poet, and legislator, were students. 

Merton can claim seniority, being founded by Merton, Chan- 
cellor of England, in 1264. ft 2 ^ so contains the oldest college 
library (1349) ; among its past members we may mention 
Duns Scotus, Massinger, Sir Richard Steele, and Bodley, the 
founder of the famous Bodleian Library. The tower of the 
chapel is massive and very beautiful. 

Baliol was founded in 1281, by the widow of John Baliol 
(father of the Scottish king). Wycliffe was once master and 
warden of this college ; and John Evelyn, the first scientific 
gardener, and author of a most amusing and historically valu- 
able diary, was a member of it. 

Oriel (1324) was founded by Edward II. There is a gold 
cup which belonged to that unfortunate king preserved in the 
college. Sir Walter Raleigh, Butler (author of the Ana- 
logy), Joseph Warton, Dr. Arnold, Whateley, Dr. Newman, 
and Keble (author of the Christian Year and Professor of 
Poetry) were of this college. Adjoining is St. Mary's Hall. 

New College (1379). The great window was designed by 
Sir Joshua Reynolds. Philpot, the martyr, and Sir Henry 
Wotton, the poet and politician in the reigns of Elizabeth and 
James, and author of that witty definition of an ambassador, 
"an honest gentleman, sent to lie abroad for the good of his 
country," were of this foundation. 

Christchurch (1525) includes the cathedral already noticed. 
The tower contains " Big Tom," one of the largest bells in 
England ; it is twice the size of the largest in St. Paul's. 
There is a statue of Wolsey, the founder, in the quadrangle, 
and l * Wolsey's Hall " contains some fine paintings. Sri 
Thomas More, Atterbury, Robert Boyle, Sir Philip Sydney, 



326 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

Camden, Locke, Ben Jonson, Canning, Peel, and Gladstone 
were educated here. 

Magdalen (pronounced Maudlen) dates from 1448, and has 
an elegant campanile tower, on the top of which a Latin 
hymn is sung annually, on May morning, by the choir. Wol- 
sey, Bishop Latimer, John Hampden, Collins (author of the 
Ode on the Passions), Gibbon, the historian, and Addison (after 
whom the walk by the Cherwell is called!), belonged to this 
college. 

All Souls' (1437) had the celebrated Jeremy Taylor as a 
fellow. 

Brazenose (1509) has the names of Bishop Heber, Fox (the 
author of the Book of Martyrs), and Whittaker, the historian, 
on its books. 

Corpus Christi (1516) was founded by Bishop Fox, of Win- 
chester, who brought about the marriage which united the 
claims of the York and Lancastrian houses to the Crown, and 
thus ended the Wars of the Roses. 

Pembroke (1724) was the college favoured by Samuel John- 
son, but he was compelled through poverty to leave before he 
could take a degree. His LL.D. was subsequently bestowed 
honoris causd by the Dublin university, and Oxford followed 
the good example shortly after. 

Queen's (1340) was so called in honour of Philippa, the 
wife of Edward III. Jeremy Bentham, the eminent writer on 
morals and jurisprudence, was its greatest student. 

Trinity (1555) contains a court built by Sir Christopher 
Wren, and has the honour of having nurtured the faculties of 
Thomas Warton, the poet, and William Pitt, the greatest of 
English statesmen — greatest as being the destroyer of the 
corrupt practices of the House of Commons, and first English 
statesman who rose to and wielded power by the popular 
voice. 

Wadham (1613) was under the wardenship, during the Pro- 
tectorate, of Bishop Wilkins, one of the principal founders 
of the Royal Society. 

The names of the remaining colleges are Exeter, Jesus, 
Lincoln, St. John's, and Worcester, in addition to which may 
be mentioned the " Schools," close to the University Buildings, 
which contain the Arundelian marbles. In the University 
Galleries, in St. Giles Street, maybe seen the Pomfret statues, 
and numerous original sketches by Raffaelle and Michael 
Angelo. 

The University Buildings form a splendid square round the 
Radcliffe Library, in Broad Street. St. Mary's Church 
encloses the south, Brazenose College and Chapel the west, 



All Souls' the east, while fronting Broad Street are the 
Ashmolean Museum, the Theatre, and Clarendon Buildings. 
The centre of the square is occupied by the Radcliffe Library, 
or Camera Bodleiana, as it is now called. The Bodleian 
Library is one of the finest in the world, containing nearly 
300,000 volumes ; it includes some of the scarcest books and 
MSS. The nucleus was formed in 1602, by Sir Thomas 
Bodley, who obtained a grant, entitling the library to a copy 
of every book entered at Stationers' Hall. This was supple- 
mented by a bequest from Dr. Radcliffe of £40,000. 

Oxford was the favourite residence of Henry II., and in 
that city were born his sons, Richard Cceur de Lion and John. 

During a stay in Oxford, no one should lose the opportunity 
of visiting Woodstock Park, in the immediate vicinity, en 
account of its historical associations. Nuneham Park is also 
a favourite excursion, and antiquarians should walk ever to 
Iffley, a distance of about a mile, the parish church of which 
has one of the finest Norman doorways in existence. 



SECTION XXX. 

BLETCHLEY, via BUCKINGHAM AND BANBURY, 
TO BLISWORTH. 

A BRANCH from Bletchley, diverging from the Oxford line 
at Verney Junction (see page 323), communicates with 
Buckingham and (vid Brackley and Farthinghoe) Banbury. The 
carriages for this branch are detached from the Oxford train 
at Winslow. 

Buckingham. 

[Hotels : "White Hart " and e * Swan."] 
The most prominent object seen on approaching this town is the 
spire, 150 feet high, of a church built upon the site of an old 
castle in the year 1780. It has a population of 7,545, chiefly 
connected with agricultural pursuits, or engaged in the manu- 
facture of machinery and lace. Two miles from Buckingham is 
Stowe, a magnificent structure, lately a part of the estates of the 
Duke of Buckingham. It contained a library of 10,000 volumes, 
a collection of MSS., and was splendidly decorated and 
furnished. 



328 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

The line next serves Brackley, an ancient borough with 2,154 
inhabitants, engaged in lace and shoe manufacture ; Farthinghoe ; 
and 

Banbury 

[Hotels : " Bear/' " Red Lion," Talbot," and " White Lion "J, 
in which is the restored cross, celebrated in nursery legends. In 
it are still sold the famous Banbury cakes. It formerly possessed 
a castle, the residence of bishops of Oxford, a structure destroyed 
during the later Civil War. A battle was fought at Danesmere in 
1469, during the struggle between the factions of the White and 
Red Roses. Cheese and ale are also the well known products 
of Banbury. It contains also a large agricultural implement 
factory, and some interesting old houses ; its inhabitants number 
4,122. Banbury is also connected with Blisworth (see page 274) 
by rail, vid Brackley, Farthinghoe, Helmdon, Wappingham, and 

Towcester, 

(see page 308), whose inhabitants (numbering 2,465) are princi- 
pally engaged in the shoe and lace trade. The town takes its 
name from the river Tow, on which it stands. The Roman 
Watling Street runs through the place, and the Talbot Inn is 
ancient. A Town Hall and Com Exchange, built of stone in 
the Classic style, was opened in 1867. Faston Neston, Earl 
Pomfret's seat, is in the immediate neighbourhood ; its erection 
was commenced by Wren. 



SECTION XXXI. 

LEIGHTON TO LUTON. 

"p^ROM Leighton a branch line of seven miles in length, pass- 
■*■ ing the small station of Stanbridge Ford, conducts the 
traveller to 

Dunstable 

[Hotels: "Sugar Loaf," " Red Lion," and "Saracen's Head '], 
a municipal borough with a population of nearly 4, 558, celebrated 
for the manufacture of straw-plait bonnets and hats, and for the 
number and size of the larks sent thence to London. It is situated 
at the foot of the Chiltern Flills, on the site of a Roman station 
on Watling Street. The church is an ancient and interesting 
structure, a part of it having been formerly attached to a cele- 



L UTON—A YLESB UR Y. 329 

brated priory in the time of Henry I. Many of the houses have 
an antiquated appearance. The town inns are famous buildings ; 
Charles I. slept at the Red Lion Inn on his way to Naseby. 
From thence the traveller is conducted to 

Luton 

[Hotels: "George/' "Cock," "Queen," "Red Lion," and "Bell"], 
a considerable town, with a population of 17,317, chiefly 
devoted to the manufacture of straw-plait. Luton church, built 
of chalk and flints, is noted for a fine embattled tower and curious 
font, its monuments, a chapel founded in the reign of Henry VI., 
and a window representing St. George and the Dragon. Luton 
Hoo is a fine mansion, the seat of the Leigh family. Luton 
is situated at the source of the Lea River, from which it takes 
its name, Luton meaning Zea^Town. 



SECTION XXXII. 

CHEDDINGTON TO AYLESBURY. 

FROM Cheddington Junction a short line conducts the tra- 
veller past Marston Gate station to 

Aylesbury 

[Hotels : "George," "Crown," "King's Head," and "Bell"], 
a town of great antiquity, delightfully situated on an eminence 
in the fertile tract of country called the Vale of Aylesbury, noted 
for the extent and richness of its pasture land. Chalk hills 
bound it on the north and south. This town figures prominently 
in early English history as a stronghold of the Ancient British. 
It was subdued by Cuthwolf, brother of Cealwin, king of the 
West Saxons, in the year 571. Aylesbury was a Saxon manor, 
granted by the Conqueror to a follower on the tenure of 
finding straw for his bed, three eels, and three green geese. 
Law proceedings, flowing out of the corruption of the burgesses 
of this borough, led to a constitutional struggle between the 
Houses of Lords and Commons in 1702. The population is 
now 6,962. 

The church, built in the Decorated Gothic style, in the form of 
a cross, is situated in a large churchyard ; its low tower can be 
seen from most parts of the vale. There is a carved pulpit in 



330 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

the church, and tombs of the Lees of Quarendon. A few years 
ago the remains of nearly 300 human bodies were discovered in 
a field on the London road near to Aylesbury ; they are sup- 
posed to have been the remains of those who perished in a fight 
between the followers of Prince Rupert, the Royalist leader, and 
Sir W. Balfour, the Parliamentary General, on March 21st, 1643. 

Lace and straw-plait are the prominent manufactures. The 
inhabitants of the town and neighbourhood rear a great number 
of early ducklings for the London Christmas market. The ducks 
are kept from laying till about October or November, when they 
are fed with abundance of stimulating food, and hens employed 
to sit on the eggs. The young brood, being hatched, are nursed 
with great care. The vale of Aylesbury sends as many as three 
quarters of a million ducks annually to London. 

The works of Messrs. Watson and Hazell, printers, of Hatton 
Garden, London, give employment to upwards of 150 persons in 
their important printing establishment. This book was printed 
at Aylesbury at the works of this firm. 

The town is supplied with spring water from the Chiltern Hills 
(softened by Clarke's process) by a company formed in 1867. 
The supply is being carried to the contiguous villages. 

Near Aylesbury is Wootton Underwood, made memorable by 
the poet Cowper, who, while living here with Lady Hesketh, his 
cousin, near Throckmorton's old seat, produced his Homer. His 
house is still standing. 



SECTION XXXIII. 

WATFORD TO ST. ALBAN'S. 

THIS short branch line of seven miles in length, after leaving 
Watford, passes through pleasing scenery to the stations of 
Bricket Wood and Park Street, before reaching 

St. Alban's 

[Hotels : " Peahen," " Woolpack," and " George and Dragon "], 
an interesting cathedral town, with a population of 8,298. The 
town, previously known as Verulam, received its name from an 
abbey founded by Offa, king of Mercia, in honour of the English 
martyr, St. Alban. The fine old abbey church (now the 
cathedral) and a large square gateway are the only remains of 
the abbey. The church was made parochial in the reign of 
Edward VI. It is a magnificent Norman edifice, the nave being 




longer than that of any other church in the country. The lady 
chapel is also singularly fine. The whole edifice is, at present, 
undergoing restoration, in the course of which the original shrine 
of the patron saint has been discovered ; it is now placed in its 
proper position. Amongst other interesting monuments are the 
tombs of Matthew Paris, the chronicler, and of Humphrey, the 
good Duke of Gloucester ; and the Abbey Gate, a large building 
near the church, and formerly used as a gaol, is now the Grammar 
School. St. Alban's is the seat of the new bishopric, created 
in 1875, to ease tne labours of the Bishops of London and 
Winchester. St. Alban's was the scene of two "battles of the 
Roses," and numbers of the slain were buried in the abbey 
church. The Roman city of Veridamium was in the immediate 
vicinity, and some portions of the city wall are now standing. 



SECTION XXXIV. 

LONDON. 

Hotels: "Euston" and "Victoria," "Langham," "Charing Cross," 
" Metropolitan," " Cannon Street," " Grosvenor,"' " Buckingham Palace," 
"Tavistock," "St. James's," " Drummond," and innumerable others of 
greater or less excellence and celebrity.] 

u ^pHE spot-on which London is built,*' says Knight, " or at 
J- least that on which the first buildings were probably 
erected, was pointed out by nature as the site for a city." Ac- 
cordingly we find it so occupied from time immemorial. If we 
are to believe Geoffrey of Monmouth, the foundation was laid 
1008 years before Christ, and, after being ruled over by fifty- 
eight kings, the city was walled in by Lud, whence the title 
of Ludgate Hill, the city thoroughfare leading up to St. Paul's 
from Fleet Street and Temple Bar. All is but vague tradition, 
however, until the arrival of the Roman pioneers of civilization. 
Shortly after this, Londinium, first so called by Tacitus, 
became a Roman station, was rebuilt, and encircled by a 
line of walls. Though taken and sacked by the natives under 
Boadicea, the city continued to increase in importance down 
to the fourth century. In the Itinerary of Antoninus mention 
is made of seven great roads diverging from London, which 
was then comprised within the present limits of the " City." 
With reference to the wonderful growth of the English 



•T. Bartholomew; Ediuf 



metropolis, it may be noticed that, though its area and popu- 
lation increased largely and steadily from this period, still it 
has been only in comparatively recent times that the increase 
has become so marvellously rapid. Little more than two 
centuries ago, Charing Cross was but a village, and St. Mar- 
tin's-in-the-Fields and St. Giles-in-the-Fields literally fulfilled 
the conditions implied by their titles. It is only within the last 
hundred years that the circuit of London has expanded to its 
present enormous limits and absorbed the outlying villages on 
every side. It now, according to the Registrar- General, reaches 
north and south from Hampstead to Norwood and east and west 
from Woolwich to Hammersmith — an area of 8o,oco acres, or 
122 square miles. The population of this great tract of land 
was 3,251,804, in 1871. In 1851, it was 2,363,141, and in 
1 861, 2,803,034 ; so that, allowing for a similar increase, the 
population of 1871 will now be exceeded by nearly three hundred 
thousand. 

The annual rental of the metropolis amounts to the enormous 
sum of from ^20,000,000 to ^25,000,000 ; and this does not 
include the extensive suburbs by which it is surrounded, and 
which are so closely connected with London as to be almost a 
part of it. They are, in fact, a continuation of its lines of streets. 
It is estimated that, besides hotels and boarding-houses, there 
are nearly 5,000 public-houses and 2, 000 beerhouses ; and that 
their fronts would, if placed side by side, reach from Charing 
Cross to Portsmouth, a distance of seventy - three miles. 
London contains nearly 3,000 bakers, 2,000 butchers, 3,000 tea- 
dealers and grocers, about 1,600 coffee-rooms, nearly 1,700 
dairymen, and about 1,800 tobacconists, while in 1874, upwards 
of 300 photographic studios w r ere in existence in the metropolis. 
There are more than 2,000 physicians and surgeons, about 4,000 
boot and shoemakers, and some 3,000 tailors ; linendrapers, mil- 
liners, and dressmakers making together, roughly calculated, a 
total of 2,000. The places of worship number about 1,200. 



General View of the Principal Streets and Thoroughfares. 

From west to east, London on the northern side of the 
Thames may be said to be traversed by three main arteries : — 

The first of these great thoroughfares, and the most southerly, 
commences at the Fulham Road in the west, and passing through 
Brompton (Brompton Road) and Knightsbridge, the southern 
boundary of Hide Park, assumes the title of Piccadilly. Then 
turning to the right, down Regent Street, it resumes its easterly 
course along Pall Mall East, past Trafalgar Square, to the 



334 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

Strand. At Temple Bar, we enter Fleet Street and the "City" 
at the same time. From Fleet Street, we pass up Ludgate Hill, 
and skirt St. Paul's, whence Cannon Street leads to London 
Bridge. From London Bridge, Lower Thames Street leads 
past Billingsgate to the Tower, whence East Smithfield and St. 
George's Street conduct to the Docks. 

The second great road, west and east, commences at the 
Uxbridge or Bayswater Road, and runs along to the north of 
Kensington Gardens and Hyde Park, at the termination of 
which it becomes Oxford Street. Oxford Street runs into 
Holborn, and Holborn over the Viaduct into Newgate Street, 
Cheapside, and the Poultry, then past the Mansion House, 
Bank of England, and Royal Exchange to Cornhill and Leaden- 
hall Street, whence a continued route, formed by the White- 
chapel and Mile End Roads, runs past Aldgate to the open 
country in Essex. 

The third main line of intersection, west and east, is that 
once called the New Road, but now subdivided into the Maryle- 
bone, Euston, Pentonville, and City Roads. This thoroughfare 
runs from Paddington, past the London and North-Western, 
Midland, and Great Northern railway-stations, at Euston, St. 
Pancras, and King's Cross respectively. It then, under the 
name of the Pentonville Road, leads up to the Angel Inn, after 
passing which, and assuming the title of the City Road, it takes 
a south-easterly direction to Moorgate Street and the Bank. 

The chief thoroughfares running north and south are — 

First, the Edgware Road, running from Kilburn in a south- 
easterly direction to the Marble Arch entrance to Hyde Park. 
The line of road is continued by Park Lane, at the ex- 
tremity of which, turning to the right along Piccadilly, as far 
as Hyde Park Corner and the Wellington Statue, it once more, 
at Grosvenor Place, extends to the Victoria Station at Pimlico, 
whence Vauxhall Bridge Road leads over the Thames to 
Kennington. 

Secondly, Langham Place and Regent Street, the latter of 
which, curving through the Quadrant, is continued to the York 
Column, where it tvrns sharply to the east, by way of Pall 
Mall, and thence to the south, through Cockspur Street, into 
Whitehall and Parliament Street ; Westminster Abbey and the 
Houses of Parliament being, to a certain extent, the finish of 
this thoroughfare. 

Thirdly, the road from Hampstead, down Haverstock Hill, 
through Camden Town into Tottenham Court Road, at the 
termination of which it meets the great traffic of Oxford Street, 
being farther continued, in a partial degree, through the St. 
Giles's district and St. Martin's Lane into Trafalgar Square. 



LONDON. 



OJi 



Farther east of these three great arteries we come to Gray's 
Inn Road and Aldersgate Street, each of them large thorough- 
fares, but not of the same importance as those just epitomized. 
The Finsbury avenue of communication has been already 
noticed, being a portion of the City Road, which, turning 
south, is a continuation of the New Road. It should, however, 
be indicated, at this place, that the City Road traffic receives 
a great feeder from Islington down the New North Road, 
as also from Dalston, Highbury, and the extreme northern 
districts. 

One more large and important road remains to be mentioned. 
This, known in its beginning as the Kingsland Road, is con- 
tinued with Shoreditch, through Bishopsgate Street and 
Gracechurch Street, over London Bridge into South wark ; the 
principal roads of which part of the Metropolis we may now 
consider. 

A reference to the map will enable the reader to perceive 
that the chief roads of Southwark and the adjacent districts 
are, for the most part, connected with and controlled by the 
roads of the northern division of London, the bridges over the 
Thames being the links of communication. Commencing 
eastward for the first great artery, we, on the other side of 
London Bridge, reach Wellington Street in the Borough, which 
is continued on through High Street, past the Elephant and 
Castle Inn, to Kennington, and thence to Clapham, Brixton, 
etc. All the roads "over the water," in fact, converge at the 
Elephant and Castle Inn, whence they radiate again to all the 
outlying districts south of the Metropolis. 

The Thames 

may be also mentioned under this category of thoroughfares, 
for while its barges perforin the part of the great drays, which 
thunder along the pavemented streets, to the inconvenience 
and often terror of pedestrians, its penny and express 
steamboats with equal fitness fulfil the roles of the four- 
wheeler and hansom cabs. Indeed, in the summer months, 
the river is a favourite route to and from the City ; and the 
tourist, after viewing the thoroughfares already mentioned, 
from the driver's seat of the omnibuses, will have a far more 
delightful treat in store — the water route, say from Richmond 
(which place may be reached by means of the London and 
North- Western Railway, via Willesden) to Greenwich. 

Leaving behind us the lovely scenery of Richmond, Twicken- 
ham, Kew, Mortlake, Barnes, and Chisw T ick, let us commence 
our observations at Hammersmith, where a handsome suspen- 
sion bridge connects Middlesex with Surrey. From this point 



336 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

the river widens into the fine reach of Hammersmith and 
Putney, and takes its course nearly south to Fulham, Putney 
being opposite, on the Surrey shore. At Fulham is the Bishop 
of London's palace, a handsome building of a semi-castellated 
character, situated on a wooded lawn, with a fine background 
of lofty trees stretching inland. Fulham Church is close to 
the palace. Here we pass under an aqueduct, and, a few yards 
further on, under Putney Bridge, a picturesque old wooden 
structure and one of the last of the kind left standing. From 
this point, for about a mile, the course of the Thames is due 
east, the banks, notably that of Middlesex, being pretty and 
sometimes well-wooded. The stream now turns to the north- 
east, passing Wandsworth, in Surrey, until Jt reaches Chelsea, 
where unother timber bridge connects Chelsea with Battersea : 
a new bridge, the Albert Suspension Bridge, a light hand- 
some structure, opened in 1874, spans the Thames at some little 
distance nearer London. We now pass the quaint old parish 
church of Chelsea, and farther on notice the fine esplanade, with 
its grand old trees, known as Cheyne Walk, the houses of which, 
though belonging to a past age, and therefore, as to modern 
tastes, unfashionable, are among the handsomest and best-built 
in the Metropolis. Amongst them is Tudor House, where 
Queen Elizabeth, when Princess, was detained by her sister 
Mary in the custody of Sir Henry Bedingfield. In the garden is 
a magnificent mulberry-tree, still known as Queen Elizabeth's 
Tree. Tudor House is now in the occupation of Dante 
Gabriel Rossetti, one of our greatest painters, and, moreover, a 
poet of some merit. Cheyne Walk is rich in memorials both 
ancient and modern. Our noble painter, Turner, resided there 
for years, and at the present time the illustrious writer, Carlyle, 
lives in this row. A massive embankment of noble proportions, 
with a broad roadway, and a portion laid out in greensward 
and flower-beds, was opened in 1874 by the Duke and Duchess 
of Edinburgh. It traverses the Middlesex side of the river 
from Old Battersea Bridge to Chelsea Hospital. 

After Chelsea we notice, on the Surrey side, Battersea Park 
(which has elaborate plantations and tasteful flower-beds), 
and approach, on the opposite side, the new embankment 
and the river front of Chelsea Hospital, presently passing 
under Chelsea Suspension Bridge. This is a very ornate 
structure, connecting Chelsea with Battersea Park and its 
vicinity. Close by is another bridge, the Pimlico Railway 
Bridge, a fine massive combination of stone and iron, over 
which, by separate lines of rail, the London and Brighton, the 
Chatham and Dover, and the Crystal Palace trains proceed to 
their respective destinations. 



The river now widens as we enter Chelsea Reach, and the 
shores exhibit greater and greater signs of population and 
commerce. After passing the Chelsea Waterworks, we 
arrive at Vauxhall Bridge, a plain iron structure of nine 
arches, all of equal span. This bridge connects Vauxhall, in 
Surrey, with Millbank. It belongs to a private company, who 
charge a toll of a halfpenny for foot-passengers, and twopence 
for every horse. The stone piers are founded in caissons. 

A little below this bridge commences the Surrey or Albert 
Embankment of the river Thames, a magnificent structure, 
similar in most respects to the embankment on the Middlesex 
shore, of which we shall presently speak. It extends from 
Lambeth to Westminster Bridge. The river front is of 
granite, the roadway fifty feet wide, and the entire length 
4,300 feet. On this embankment, stand the handsome new 
buildings of St. Thomas's Hospital, facing which are the 
Houses of Parliament, or New Palace of Westminster, perhaps 
the finest modern Gothic pile in the world. It covers an 
area of about eight acres, and is said to contain two miles of 
passages and corridors. 

Close to the clock-tower of the Houses of Parliament is 
Westminster Bridge, a richly elaborated iron structure on 
stone piers, built from the design of Mr. Wm. Page, in the 
years 1856-62. It is 1,160 feet in length, and has a breadth 
of eighty-five feet. It consists of seven iron arches, the centre 
one being 120 feet span and twenty- two feet above high water. 
The rise of the roadway to the centre is very slight, and 
the bridge is one of the most spacious and valuable means 
of transit in the whole metropolis; in addition to this it 
affords one of the finest views possible in London. 

We are now in full view of London. The principal objects 
of interest are, with but few exceptions, on the north side 
of the river. On the east of Westminster Bridge commences 
that great work the Victoria Embankment. In 1864, the 
Metropolitan Board of Works decided to amend the unsightly 
aspect of the river banks, by the erection of a quay of solid 
masonry, which should be worthy of the great Metropolis ; 
and the result of this resolve is in the highest degree successful, 
the Victoria Embankment being in truth a noble work. It 
was commenced in 1865, and finished in 1870, when it was 
opened by her Majesty. It extends from Westminster Bridge 
to Blackfriars, and is 7,000 feet in length. Below the roadway 
is the tunnel of the District Railway, which follows the new 
route as far as Cannon Street. The granite river wall is 
and forty feet high : the width of the roadway eight feet thick 
is 100 feet. In the construction of this quay great spaces were 



gained from the Thames ; and public gardens occupy a large 
portion of the ground so reclaimed. When wholly completed 
as to its approaches and some minor details, the cost of the 
Victoria Embankment will not be less than ,£2,000,000. 

From Westminster Bridge, passing the Duke of Buccleuch's 
fine mansion, Whitehall Gardens, and other handsome re- 
sidences, we arrive at Charing Cross Bridge, built in 1863 by 
the South-Eastern Railway Company, in order to carry their 
traffic into the centre of West London. Here formerly stood 
the Hungerford Suspension Bridge, which was bought by the 
Clifton Suspension Bridge Company, and by them, with 
certain modifications, thrown over the Avon. The present 
Hungerford or Charing Cross Bridge rests on iron cylinders 
and two brick piers. It is about 700 feet in length, and has 
four lines of rail. There is a footway (for the use of which 
a toll of one halfpenny is levied on pedestrians) on each side of 
the railroad. The spacious station of the South-Eastern Com- 
pany, into which the lines on the bridge run, is a prominent 
object from the river. Attached to the pier at the northern 
end of the bridge is the first, of the Thames floating swimming 
baths. 

From this point, passing the gardens of the Victoria Embank- 
ment and the busy shores of Lambeth, with the Lion Brewery 
and the lofty tower of the Shot Factory well in the foreground, 
we arrive at Waterloo Bridge. This was begun by a public 
company in 181 1, the engineer being John Rennie, and was 
finished in 1817, being opened on the 18th of June, the second 
anniversary of the battle of Waterloo, whence its name. It 
consists of nine equal elliptical arches of 120 feet span. The 
piers of these arches are twenty feet wide and thirty-five 
feet high. The bridge is 1,380 feet in length, with an uniformly 
level roadway of forty-three feet in width. The first object that 
strikes the visitor after passing the bridge is Somerset House, on 
the left, with its noble and imposing facade, 600 feet in length. 
It is so called as occupying the site of the palace of the cele- 
brated Protector Somerset, and is Crown property, appro- 
priated to the purpose of Government offices. 

A little further down, on the same side, are the Middle and 
Inner Temple. Here were the head-quarters of that once 
powerful body, the Knights Templars, from 1184 to their sup- 
pression in the fourteenth century. After this the buildings 
were mostly occupied by students of law, until 1608, when 
James I. formally presented them to the benchers of the two 
Inns of Court. 

We next approach Blackfriars Bridge. It consists of five 
arches^ the central one of which has a span of 185 feet. It is 



LONDON. 339 



1,272 feet long, including the abutments, and seventy feet wide. 
The arches are of iron, the piers of granite,. built on iron piles. 
The terminations of the piers are pillars of polished red granite, 
surmounted by richly carved capitals in white stone, the effect 
of which is singularly striking. It would be difficult to imagine 
a more elegant combination of ironwork and masonry than that 
presented by this handsome bridge ; but its effect eastward, 
and to a certain extent westward, is almost Avholly marred by the 
unsightly iron bridge of the London, Chatham, and Dover 
Railway Company. Blackfriars Bridge cost but £320,000, a 
remarkably moderate sum for so beautiful a structure. Passing 
under it, a splendid view is afforded of St. Paul's Cathedral, 
whose superb dome and great golden cross tower above the city. 
The handsome steeple of Bow Church also forms a special ai d 
picturesque feature in the prospect from the river. 

We now arrive at South wark Bridge, which consists of three 
arches, the central one 402 feet span, and cost ,£800,000. Mid- 
way between this and London Bridge is the South-Eastern 
Railway Viaduct. 

London Bridge, which has the reputation of being one of the 
finest granite constructions of the kind in the world, was finished 
in 1831, at a cost of ^£2,000,000, including the approaches. It 
consists of five arches, with a central span of 152 feet, is 928 
feet in length, and fifty-four in width. The prospect from the 
bridge embraces, on the northern shore, Billingsgate Fish-market, 
the Coal Exchange, the Custom House, the Tower, and the 
quays, hemmed in with row upon row of ships ; while on the 
south side, between Tooley Street and the river, the vast pile of 
warehouses built after the terrible conflagration in 1861, by which 
£2,000,000 worth of property was destroyed, confront the more 
ambitious, but not more important, structures of the opposite 
shore. Westward of the bridge, on the Surrey side, are St. 
Saviour's and St. Olave's Churches and Barclay and Perkins' 
Brewery. 

For taking a general view of the City, we should recommend 
the tourist to make the open space in front of the Exchange his 
starting-point. Here omnibuses can be had for every district in 
London ; in fact more of those vehicles assemble at this spot 
than anywhere else in the world. Next to this, Charing Cross 
is the best rendezvous ; and, where ladies are not of the party, 
the roofs and drivers' seats of the omnibuses are the cheapest 
and best locomotive " coigns of 'vantage" of which the tourist 
can avail himself for forming an idea of the beauty and extent of 
this great city. 

Supposing the tourist to have reached our starting-point at the 



340 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

Exchange, we shall briefly refer to the public buildings which 
surround him, and then take him to those in the more remote 
districts. 

The Royal Exchange 

is a quadrangular structure, with its principal facade facing west- 
ward towards Cheapside and the Poultry. Between these two 
points stands the Wellington equestrian statute, erected at a 
cost of ;£i 1,500. At the opposite end of the building is the 
statue of the late George Peabody, the American millionaire, 
who gave the munificent sum of ^"500,000 to be spent in build- 
ings for the English poor. The Exchange contains, among other 
public offices, " Lloyd's," the most celebrated underwriters and 
marine insurers in the world. On the south of the area in front 
of the Exchange is 

The Mansion House, 

a dark and somewhat gloomy-looking pile, with a front consist- 
ing of a rustic basement surmounted by a portico of six Corin- 
thian columns. The state rooms are open to the public, and are 
gorgeously, if not tastefully, fitted up. Opposite to the Exchange 
stands 

The Bank of England, 

generally known as "the Bank." It covers an area of eight 
acres, employs upwards of a thousand clerks, porters, and mes- 
sengers, and pays about ^"220,000 per annum in salaries. The 
buildings comprised are not lofty, and are massive rather than 
beautiful. The teller's room, open to the public, presents a 
bustling and interesting scene ; but for the bullion office and note- 
printing office, which will well repay a visit, an order must be 
obtained from one of the governors. In the former there is 
generally stored about sixteen millions in bullion, the weighing of 
which by machinery is a most curious and astonishing process. 
Next to the Bank is 

The Stock Exchange, 

where all business in funded stock, Exchequer Bills, etc., is con- 
ducted. It is not open to the public. Proceeding westward from 
this, past the Bank, to Cheapside, and turning to the right up 
King Street, the tourist will reach 

The Guildhall, 

an old building, with a new and rather peculiar Gothic front. 
The principal hall, 153 feet by forty-eight, and nearly sixty feet 
high, contains two colossal figures of those mythic personages, 
Go£ and Magog, said to watch over the welfare of the City, and 



some fine statues of the Duke of Wellington, Lord Nelson, the 
Earl of Chatham, William Pitt, the younger, Lord Mayor Beck- 
ford, and George III., together with two paintings depicting the 
" Siege of Gibraltar" and "Wat Tyler slain by Lord Mayor 
Walworth." Notice also the stained glass windows, and the 
armorial bearings of the twelve City companies. The Library 
and Museum deserve a visit. 

Before going westward from Cheapside the tourist should visit 
Bow Church, built by Sir Christopher Wren after the great fire. 
The steeple is one of Wren's happiest efforts, and though often 
imitated, has never been equalled. Beneath is a clock projecting 
over the pathway of the street ; and the tower contains a peal of 
bells, which dub as "Cockney" all who are born within the 
sound of their chimes. 

Proceeding to the west end of Cheapside, and turning to the 
right up St. Martin's-le-Grand, the tourist will behold 

The General Post Office, 

a spacious structure in the Ioliic style. The main entrance is 
under a lofty portico, which gives ingress to the various depart- 
ments. The postal service gives employment to upwards of 
20,000 clerks and letter-carriers, but to this number must be 
added the staff of the telegraph service, which is now under the 
management of the Post Office officials. Statistics show that 
the average annual number of letters passing through the Post 
Office is 600,000,000 ; to this add 80,000,000 newspapers, and 
12,000,000 book-parcels, giving a total of 692,000,000 parcels, 
and an inadequate idea may be formed of the peculiar efficiency of 
this department of the public service. On the opposite side of 
the road are the new buildings, used principally for telegraph 
business, and to relieve the strain upon the old offices, owing to 
the vast extension of the general business of the Post Office. 
Retracing our steps from St. Martin's-le-Grand, we reach 

St. Paul's Churchyard and St. Paul's Cathedral. 

Four churches successively occupied this site before the erection 
of the present noble edifice. The first was a Christian church, 
during the early Roman period. This being destroyed later 
on, when Christianity was no longer tolerated, a second church 
was built in the time of Constantine, the first Christian Emperor. 
The pagan Saxons demolished this after the departure of the 
Romans, but it was rebuilt about four centuries before the Nor- 
man Conquest, and, with occasional renovations and additions, 
survived until the Great Fire of London in 1666. The present 
structure was designed by Sir Christopher Wren, and was finished 



342 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

within thirty-five years after the foundation stone was laid. It is 
of the usual cruciform plan, with the principal facade looking 
westward to Ludgate Hill, and is the only cathedral in the United 
Kingdom that is not of the Gothic order of architecture. The 
portico consists of twelve Corinthian pillars, supporting a second 
order, surmounted by the pediment ; and conspicuous over all 
towers the dome, with a lofty belfry tower on either side. There 
are also entrances at the south and north sides, the latter being 
the one commonly used. 

Entering through this, the tourist will be much more struck 
by the interior of the building than he was by its external 
aspect. Having passed the portal, the real vastness and magni- 
ficence of the dome begin to grow on one, and its full dimensions 
can be appreciated. The exact height is 350 feet above the 
marble pavement on which the visitor stands, and 370 feet from 
the level of the churchyard. There are a great many statues, 
monuments, some good carving, and a few paintings ; but the 
ornaments of this nature are decidedly Insufficient for so stupen- 
dous a construction, and much remains to be done. The paint- 
ings have reference to the life of the patron saint, and the chief 
statues and monuments are those of Sir Joshua Reynolds, Sir 
John Moore, Nelson, Abercrombie, Howe, Rodney, Cornwallis, 
Bishop Heber, Picton, and Ponsonby. In the crypt are the 
tombs of Wren — " the architect, " says the Latin Inscription, "of 
this church and city, who lived for more than ninety years, not 
for himself alone, but for the public. Reader, if you seek his 
monument, look around you ! " — Wellington, Nelson, Picton, 
Reynolds, Lawrence, Fuseli, Turner, Rennie, and others. 
The body of the building is open to the ^public, but charges 
varying from 6d. to is. 6d. are made for viewing the wdiis- 
pering and outside galleries, the great ball crowning the dome, 
the clock and crypt, and for admission to the library, great 
bell, geometrical staircase (which seems to hang without any sup- 
port), and the model-room (containing the architect's original 
model, and a model of St. Peter's at Rome). The last public oc- 
casion in connection with this, the metropolitan cathedral, w T as 
on the 27th of February, 1872, when the Queen and the Royal 
Family attended a public thanksgiving for the recovery of the 
Prince of Wales from an almost fatal illness, after a royal pro- 
cession through the streets. 12,000 persons occupied the build- 
ing, which was illuminated beautifully in the evening. Tourists 
desiring more detailed particulars respecting the Cathedral, will 
do well to consult Shaw's Shilling Guide to London. 

The thoroughfare round the Cathedral is known as St. Paul's 
Churchyard, and contains St. Paul's School and some fine silk- 
mercers' establishments. From the churchyard the tourist will 



LONDON. 343 



pass down Ludgate Hill into Fleet Street, beneath the viaduct of 
the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway. Looking to the 
right up Farringdon Street, the Holborn Viaduct may be seen 
in the distance ; close by are the Ludgate Hill Terminus, the 
Waithman Monument, the Wilkes Obelisk, and to the left new 
Blackfriars Bridge. 

Holborn Viaduct 

is a magnificent bridge, constructed to connect Newgate Street 
with Holborn Hill, so as to do away with the steep ascent from 
the valley between them, which unmercifully taxed the strength 
of the horses. The roadway is carried over Farringdon Street, 
and is ornamented with some exceedingly ornate buildings, among 
which is the City Temple (Rev. Dr. Parker). 

The Dead Meat Market 
is in Smithfield. It is a large and handsome edihce, erected on 
the former site of the Metropolitan Cattle Market, famous as the 
scene of the martyrdoms in the reign of Mary. 

The Congregational Memorial Hall 

has been built on the site of the Fleet Prison, where so many 
Nonconformists were confined, in the years immediately succeed- 
ing the passing of the Uniformity Act. 

We now enter Fleet Street, the literary and historical associa- 
tions of which would fill a large volume, and, passing under 
Temple Bar, at the western end, leave the City, and reach the 
Strand. Before doing so the tourist should turn to the left 
through the Temple gateway, and visit the head-quarters of the 
legal and literary fraternity. Most of the buildings have interest- 
ing associations, but we can here only call attention to the fact, 
and mention that the Temple Church, the beautiful Elizabethan 
Middle Temple Hall, the Libraries, and the Temple Gardens are 
all admirable of their kind. 

The Strand 
was the grassy bank of the river down to the reign of Henry VIII. , 
and even at a much later date it was nothing more than a country 
roadway leading from London to Westminster, between which 
and the river the noblemen began to erect their mansions, which 
now give names to the various streets leading from the Strand to 
the river-side. All these streets are famed for private hotels and 
lodging-houses, where visitors, studying economy combined with 
a central position, resort. The only buildings in the Strand of 
architectural note are Somerset House and Charing Cross station 
and hotel. On the right-hand side, before reaching the former, 



344 LONDON AND* NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

is a large open space, upon which the new law courts are being 
erected. Passing the churches of St. Clement Danes and St. 
Mary-le- Strand (the latter on the spot where stood the famous 
May-pole) and the offices of Messrs. H. Gaze and Son, tourist 
agents (No. 142), we arrive at 

Somerset House, 

on our left-hand side. The eastern quadrangle is set apart foi 
the use of the King's College ; but this portion is not remarkable 
for any architectural beauty. Next comes Wellington Street, at 
the extremity of which may be seen Waterloo Bridge, and, with 
Exeter Hall on the right, and the Chapel of St. Mary-le-Savoy 
towards the river on the left, we arrive at Adam Street, turning 
down which the tourist can visit the abode of the Society of Arts. 
The meeting-room contains some tolerable pictures. Returning 
to the Strand, we proceed to the Charing Cross station and hotel, 
in front of which is a reproduction of Queen Eleanor's cross, 
from which the locality takes its name of Charing Cross. 

We are now confronted by Nelson's Monument, and the foun- 
tains and statues occupying Trafalgar Square. On the south stood 
Northumberland House, the ancestral town residence of the 
Percys, now removed to make way for a new approach to the 
Victoria embankment ; on the east is the Church of St. Martin's- 
in-the-Fields, and on the north 

The National Gallery. 

The gallery was, from its opening in 1838 until 1869, jointly 
occupied by the Royal Academy pictures and the nucleus of the 
national collection ; but the Academy has lately removed to Bur- 
lington House, Piccadilly. The external appearance of the 
building is certainly not what might be expected ; but the collec- 
tion adorning the walls of the interior, though begun late, is 
yearly receiving valuable additions, and bids fair to become one 
of the finest in the world. The gallery is open to the public on 
Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays. Crossing to 
the opposite side of the square, we shall now suppose the tourist 
to proceed to Westminster. At the head of Parliament Street 
is the famous statue of Charles I., which was buried during the 
Civil War and Protectorate by the brazier to whom it was sold 
by the Long Parliament for old metal. On the left is 

Whitehall, 

a royal residence from the time of Henry VIII. to that of Wil- 
liam III., in whose reign lit was reduced to ashes, with the ex- 
ception of the banqueting hall. This noble room was commenced 
by James I. under the direction of Inigo Jones, and the ceiling 



was painted by Rubens. It was in front of this building that 
Charles I. was beheaded. 

On the opposite side of this street are this Horse Guards, 
Admiralty, and a grand pile of buildings forming the Foreign 
Offices, built after designs by Sir G. Scott, and giving another 
proof of the genius of that great architect. We shall now pass 
on to 

The Houses of Parliament. 

The foundation of this magnificent structure was laid in 1840. 
Up to i860, ^2,107,000 had been spent on its building and em- 
bellishment. Entering through St. Stephen's Porch, we reach 
the corridor of the same name. Westminster Hall communi- 
cates with the porch by a flight of steps. A corridor running 
northwards from the central hall leads to the " lobby" and 
House of Commons, another running south conducts to the 
House of Peers. Beyond the latter are the Queen's Robing- 
room, Victoria Hall, and the Royal Gallery. The House of 
Lords is ninety-seven feet by forty-five, and forty-five in height. 
It is richly painted and gilded throughout, and the windows are 
all of stained glass. The fresco paintings are by Dyce, Cope, 
Maclise, and Horseley. The throne occupies the southern end. 
At the opposite end is the strangers' gallery ; and the galleries 
at the sides are respectively for peeresses and reporters. The 
stuatues between the windows are those of the eighteen barons 
who signed the Magna Charta. The House of Commons is of 
equal height and width, but only sixty-two feet long. It is not 
so profusely gilded and decorated as the Upper House. The 
Speaker's chair is at the north end, behind which is the gallery 
for reporters. Above this are the ladies' galleries, and strangers' 
galleries arc at the sides and other end. The floor above is 
principally occupied by the different committee-rooms of both 
houses. At the south-west angle rises the Victoria Tower 
to the height of 340 feet ; it is seventy-five feet square. The 
lofty and elegant arch at the base is the royal state entrance. 
At the opposite end of the pile stands the clock-tower, forty feet 
square and 320 in height. There is a dial in each face of the 
tower, with a minute-hand sixteen feet long, whose point de- 
scribes a circle of seventy-two feet circumference every hour. 
The clock has four chime bells and a great hour bell. The 
latter measures 9ft. at the mouth ; its height is 7 ft. 6in., and its 
, thickness 8f in. ; it weighs more than thirteen tons and a half. 

Both houses are open to the public on Saturdays, by order, to 
be obtained at the Lord Chamberlain's Office ; but admission to 
the debates is only to be had by an order from a member. 



346 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

Westminster Hall, 

though made to form part of the present design, is the old ban- 
queting-hall of the original palace, and was built by William 
Rums. It is 290 feet by sixty-eight, and the roof, which is no 
feet above the floor, is one of our best specimens of carved wood 
ceilings. The ball is entirely unsupported by pillars, and is, 
we believe, the largest room in the world so constructed. The 
doors on the east side conduct to the Lower House, and those 
on the west to the Courts of Queen's Bench, Chancery, Common 
Pleas, and Exchequer. Opposite the hail is 

Westminster Abbey, 

the view of which is rather obstructed on the south, but the 
remaining sides are well displayed. The site was originally an 
insulated piece of land, round which the Thames flowed, and 
was occupied by a monastic institution shortly after the arrival 
of the first preachers of Christianity. The abbey was built in 
the reign of Edward the Confessor, on the site of the earlier 
edifice, which by that time had fallen into ruin. This new 
church rapidly grew in beauty and importance. It was selected 
by William the Conqueror for his coronation, was enlarged and 
embellished by Henry III. and Edward L, and in Henry VII. 's 
time received the addition of the chapel named after that monarch 
— a perfect gem of its kind. The antique pile was somewhat 
roughly handled in the reign of Henry VIII., and again by the 
Puritans, who occupied it as barracks. Still, in ' ' Bluff King 
Hal's" time, though injured in appearance, it received an acces- 
sion of dignity, being constituted a cathedral. It was restored 
by Sir Christopher Wren, who added the incongruous towers at the 
western entrance. The ground-plan is of the usual cruciform de- 
sign, and measures 416 feet in length, 203 in width at the tran- 
sept, and 103 at the nave. The height of the towers is 225 feet. 
Entering between those towers, a magnificent vista stretches 
away, in front, between the great ranges of marble columns to 
the vaulted arch at the eastern end, adjoining the chapels of 
Edward the Confessor and Henry VII. The great west window 
is enriched with full-length representations or Abraham, Isaac, 
and Jacob ; Moses, Aaron, and the patriarchs ; and the arms of 
the Saxon King Sebert (the original founder), of Edward the 
Confessor, Elizabeth, and George II. The rose window in the 
north transept depicts Scriptural incidents, as does also the mari- 
gold window in the south transept. This transept is commonly 
known as the "Poet's Corner," from the number of celebrated 
poets either buried or having monuments there. The principal 
are Chaucer, Spenser, Shakespeare, Ben Jonson, Milton, Dry- 



den, Butler, Cowley, Gay, Thomson, Gray, Goldsmith, Rowe, 
Handel, Addison, Sheridan, Campbell, and Macaulay ; Garrick, 
the eminent statesman Lord Palmerston, and Charles Dickens, 
are also interred in this classic spot. Notice, too, the elegant 
monumental group of John, Duke of Argyle. In the north 
transept the most interesting monuments are those of Lord 
Mansfield, Lord Chatham (his son, William Pitt, has a statue 
over the western entrance), General Wolfe, the hero of Quebec, 
Sir Isaac Newton, Earl Stanhope, etc. There are also nume- 
rous monuments in the aisles, one of which contains specimens 
of ancient art on the tombs of Aymer de Valence and Edmund 
Crouchback. The Domesday Book used to be kept in the 
abbey, but has been removed to the Record Office, in Fetter Lane. 

The chapels of Edward the Confessor and Henry VII. are 
situated at the eastern end of the choir. The former is the most 
ancient, and in some respects the most interesting portion of the 
entire edifice. The most striking objects here are the mosaic 
shrine of the Confessor, containing his remains ; the handsome 
screen, on the frieze of which are represented the principal inci- 
dents in the life of the sainted king ; the monuments of Richard 
II. and his Queen, Henry III., Henry V., Edward III., and 
Queen Eleanor, and the Coronation Chair, containing the famous 
Scone stone. Henry VII. 's Chapel, a beautiful specimen of 
Pointed Gothic, is entered by steps of black marble through 
brazen gates of the most exquisite workmanship. The roof is 
wrought with devices in stonework ; and the oak stalls, with 
their Gothic canopies, the armorial bearings of the Knights of 
the Order of the Bath, and the banners suspended overhead, 
form surroundings in complete harmony with the magnificent 
tomb of Henry and his wife, with its encircling brass chantry, 
exhibiting devices emblematic of the union of the Roses, or rival 
Houses of York and Lancaster. There are nine or ten other 
chapels, each and all containing noteworthy objects ; but we can 
only refer to the leading features, and must leave the tourist to 
gather further information from Shaw's Shilling Guide to London. 

On the south-west of the abbey stands Westminster School, 
one of the most celebrated of the English foundation schools. 
Hard by, on the north, is St. Margaret's Church and burial- 
ground : in the latter are interred Caxton, the father of English 
printing, and Sir Walter Raleigh. 

About a mile up the northern bank of the river is situated the 
famous Millbank Penitentiary, a prison built after the design of 
that prince of legal reformers, Jeremy Bentham. 

Should time permit, the tourist might visit Chelsea Hospital, 
about another mile farther on, and crossing over Chelsea Bridge, 
enter Battersea Park, before mentioned, and return by 



34? LONDON AND NORTH- WESTERN GUIDE. 

Lambeth Palace 

to Westminster. Lambeth Palace is the London residence of 
the Archbishop of Canterbury, and is a venerable pile of various 
styles of architecture. The old chapel, dating from 1196, the 
Lollards' Tower, so named from having been the prison-house of 
the Lollards, or followers of Wycliffe, and the library, are the 
chief points of interest in the palace, to which admission is ob- 
tained by order from the Archbishop. 

This will be, perhaps, more than sufficient for one day's sight- 
seeing. On another occasion we will suppose the starting-point 
to be Charing Cross. Walking thence up St. Martin's Lane, 
and turning to the right down Garrick Street, past the offices 
of Messrs. Norton and Shaw, we reach King Street, leading into 

Covent Garden Market, 

the great mart for flowers, fruit, and early vegetables. The 
quadrangle of the market occupies the site of the former convent 
garden of Westminster Abbey. The busiest time is in the morn- 
ing, from six to eleven o'clock. Market days are Tuesdays, 
Thursdays, and Saturdays of each week, when a most interesting 
sight may be witnessed from two till eight o'clock a.m., the 
surrounding avenues being crowded with the vehicles of retail 
dealers and the utmost animation pervading the whole. At the 
north-west comer of the market is Evans's Supper-rooms, cele- 
brated for excellent part-singing. 

From Covent Garden, we proceed to Lincoln's Inn Fields and 
Lincoln's Inn, 
one of the oldest of the Inns of Court. The hall contains a fresco 
by G. F. Watts, R.A., unsurpassed in modern times, and a paint- 
ing of "St. Paul before Agrippa and Festus," by Hogarth. 
There are also works by the latter artist in the Soane Museum, 
in Lincoln's Inn Fields. Here is the College of Surgeons, 
whose anatomical museum is one of the best in London. 

Crossing now into Holborn, we may visit 

Gray's Inn. 

The hall dates from 1357, and has a fine old-fashioned' oak roof. 
In the garden, noted for its fine elm-avenue and rookery, is a tree 
planted by Lord Bacon, who was a member of the inn. Southey 
and Gascoigne, the poets, were also members. 

Walking westward to Museum Street, we reach 
The British Museum. 

A full view of the imposing facade, 370 feet in length, is afforded 
as we reach the corner of Museum Street. The building is of 
Grecian design, presenting a range of forty-four columns, with 



LONDON. 349 



a Doric portico and sculptured pediment in the centre. The 
museum is open to the public on Mondays, Wednesdays, and 
Fridays, and, from May to August, on Saturday afternoons, on 
which days also permission is given to view the reading-room 
and library. The latter contains somewhat more than 900,000 
volumes, besides a splendid collection of the rarest MSS., pur- 
chased at enormous prices. Tickets can ea.sily be procured for 
using the reading-room : it is a circular hall, with a dome-shaped 
roof, 160 feet high, and is some 450 feet in circumference. The 
collection of ancient sculpture, including the Egyptian, Lycian, 
Assyrian, Grecian, Roman, etc., and the zoological collection, 
are the finest in the world, and we doubt if the antiquities are 
surpassed. Amongst the Egyptian antiquities, notice the Rosetta 
Stone, taken from the French after the surrender of Alexandria, 
which, containing inscriptions in Greek and in the two forms of 
Egyptian hieroglyphics {i.e., in hieroglyphics proper, and in 
demotic), furnished the clue to the deciphering of those charac- 
ters which so long set at nought the ingenuity of antiquarians. 
Amongst the ancient sculpture may be seen the Elgin, Phe- 
galean, yEgina, Halioarnassus, and Farnese marbles. In the 
natural history galleries is a stuffed gorilla ; and the King's 
Library, to the right of the reading-room, contains a choice 
selection of Italian, Flemish, and German engravings and 
drawings. Days might be profitably and pleasantly passed in 
examining the different departments ; but, if time be an object, 
the tourist should proceed at once to 

Eegent's Park and the Zoological Gardens. 

The former consists of about 470 acres, laid out in lakes, shrub- 
beries, flower-beds, and plantations, all on the modern plan of 
landscape-gardening, which is likewise the guiding principle in 
the arrangement of the Zoological Gardens. These latter are, as 
is well known, the finest of the kind anywhere to be found. 

An omnibus can be taken from the park to Regent Circus, 
whence a short walk along Oxford Street leads to the Marble Arch 
entrance to Hyde Park, passing on the right Holies Street, the 
birth-place of Byron. The circuit of Hyde Park, an inspection of 
Kensington Palace and Gardens, and the walk eastwards through 
the " Ladies' Mile," the Serpentine, and Rotten Row (best time 
between four and six p.m.), brings us to the main south-eastern 
entrance, at which stands the colossal bronze statue of Achilles, 
made of cannon taken at the battles of Waterloo and Salamanca, 
and "erected to the Duke of Wellington and his companions-in- 
arms by their countrywomen." Near the entrance stands Apsley 
House, the residence of the " Iron Duke," and facing us is the 
triumphal arch, surmounted by his effigy. 



350 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

Kensington Palace 

is a large brick edifice, of no architectural beauty externally, in 
which the Princess Mary and her husband, the Duke of Teck, 
reside. Our present Queen was born in this palace, in 1819. 
Kensington Gardens are beautifully laid out, and are always 
open to the public. Notice especially the new gardens, Avith 
flower-beds and statuary in the Italian style. Near the entrance 
to the park at this end is 

The Albert Memorial, 

a striking Gothic structure, 175 feet high, richly gilt, containing 
under the canopy a statue of the late Prince Consort, with sculp- 
tured groups at the base, emblematical of Europe, Asia, Africa, 
and America. 

Crossing Piccadilly from the Achilles Statue, we enter the 
Green Park, at the south-eastern corner of which, or rather at the 
west end of the adjoining park, St. James's, is 

Buckingham Palace, 

the town residence of the Queen. It is a large quadrangular 
pile, but by no means a model of architectural beauty. The 
state room, library, picture-gallery, and gardens, admission to 
which can be procured at the Lord Chamberlain's office, are worth 
visiting. Among the paintings are some by Rembrandt, Rubens, 
Vandyck, Cuyp, Teniers, Reynolds, and Wilkie ; and the hand- 
some pavilion in the gardens contains frescoes by Maclise, East- 
lake, Stanficld, and Landseer. 

St. James's Park 

is about ninety acres in extent, and contains a fine sheet of orna- 
mental water, with islands for the numerous water-fowl. At the 
eastern end is the Parade, on which the Body Guard troops are 
mustered every morning at ten o'clock. The park is bounded 
on the north by the Mall, a long avenue leading to 

St. James's Palace, 

a picturesque but unpretending brick building. On the east of 
St. James's Palace is 

Marlborough House, 

the town residence of the Prince of Wales. It was built for the 
hero of Blenheim by wSir Christopher Wren, and purchased by the 
Crown in 181 7 for the princess Charlotte and her husband, the 
King of the Belgians. 

From Pall Mall, which these buildings face, and which is cer- 
tainly the handsomest street in London, on account of its splendid 



club-houses, the tourist can cross through St. James's Square to 
Burlington House, Piccadilly, where 

The Royal Academy 

holds its annual exhibition of paintings and sculpture. The Aca- 
demy has now been established for more than a century. Before 
the erection of the National Gallery, in Trafalgar Square, its meet- 
ings were held in a few small rooms in Somerset House. It then 
held its exhibitions in the eastern wing of the National Gallery ; 
but, six years since, removed to Burlington House, where up- 
wards of ;£6o,ooo is annually taken at the doors during the exhi- 
bition months of May, June, and July. The Academy consists 
of forty Royal Academicians (R.A.'s, as they are called), an un- 
limited number of associates, a president, secretary, and six 
associate engravers. Students are taught gratuitously, on showing 
evidence of skill in preliminary study. 

While in this neighbourhood, the tourist may walk through 
the different West End squares. The principal of these are St. 
James's, already mentioned; Hanover, in which are St. George's 
Church and the Hanover Square Rooms, where fashionable 
balls and concerts are held, also the Arts Club, Oriental Club, 
and the Zoological and RoyalAgricultural Societies ; Cavendish, 
in which the celebrated Lady Mary Wortley Montagu resided ; 
Portman, and Manchester — most of which are north of Oxford 
Street. But perhaps the most celebrated of all is Belgrave 
Square, which gives the name of Belgravia to its vicinity. 

Stafford House, near St. James's Palace, the residence of the 
Duke of Sutherland ; Bridgewater House, near the Green Park, 
the residence of Lord Ellesmere, containing perhaps the finest 
private collection of paintings in the kingdom ; Devonshire 
House, in Piccadilly ; Lansdowne House, Berkeley Square ; 
Grosvenor House, near Grosvenor Square, the residence of the 
Marquis of Westminster ; Apsley House, already mentioned ; . 
Montague House, in Whitehall Gardens ; and the mansion ot 
Baron Rothschild are worth visiting. Some of the very best 
ancient and modern pictures are contained in them. Permission 
to view Bridgewater House is readily given, and maybe obtained 
by a written application. 

Leicester Square, 

situated north of Trafalgar Square and east of Piccadilly, is the 
great resort of Continental refugees, and the neighbourhood is 
full of French cafes, restaurants, and hotels. John Hunter, the 
great anatomist, and Hogarth, lived at the eastern side of the 
square. Sir Joshua Reynolds resided, up to his death, at No. 47. 
The Sabloniere Hotel occupies a portion of the site of Leicester 



352 LOXDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

House, in which dwelt Elizabeth of Bohemia, George, Prince 
of Wales, afterwards George II., and his son Frederick, who 
pre-deceased his father ; the remaining portion of the site is 
covered by the Alhambra Music Hall. The square_ itself, through 
the munificence of Albert Grant, Esq., is now one of the choicest 
spots in London, adorned in the centre with a statue of Shakes- 
peare, fountains, and the busts of four of the most notable of the 
former inhabitants of the square. In St. Martin's Street, at the 
south of the square, may still be seen the house in which Sir 
Isaac Newton lived. 

Having now reviewed the principal objects of note west of the 
Mansion House, we shall take our tourist eastward of that point. 
The chief attraction is, of course, the Tower ; but let us first 
turn down towards Billingsgate and the river — 

" Where London's column, pointing to the skies, 
Like a tall bully, lifts its head and lies." 

Pope's couplet was quite just, for an inscription on the plinth 
of the monument attributed the Great Fire of 1666, which it com- 
memorates, to " ye treachery and malice of ye Popish faction," an 
assertion unfounded in fact. This inscription was, howevever, 
obliterated in 1831. The column is fluted after the Doric style, 
with gilded finial, meant to represent flames. There is a charge 
of threepence for ascending to the summit, which commands an 
extensive prospect of the Metropolis. Passing along Thames 
Street, at the back of Billingsgate Fish-market, we soon reach 

The Tower of London, 

which covers an area of about twelve acres. It was founded by 
William the Conqueror, in 1066, to overawe the inhabitants of 
London, and was subsequently much extended by William Rufus, 
Henry I., and Henry III., while in later times it was greatly 
improved by James I., Charles II. , and William III. There 
are four entrances : the Traitors' Gate, at the end of a sort of 
canal which ran from the river into the heart of the fortress — so 
called because state prisoners used to be conducted by water, 
after their trial at Westminster, to the safe keeping of the Tower, 
and always entered here ; the Lion Gate, Iron Gate, and Water 
Gate. The principal entrance now is the Lion Gate, at the 
western end. Near this is the Lion Tower. Other towers are 
the White Tower, the most ancient of the buildings, and con- 
taining a good sample of the early Norman chapel ; the Middle 
Tower ; the Bloody Tower, opposite the Traitors' Gate, in which 
Richard III. murdered his nephews ; the Bowyer Tower, in j 
which George, Duke of Clarence, was drowned in a butt of I 
Malmsey wine, by order of his brother ; the Brick Tower, in 



LONDON. 353 



which the accomplished but unfortunate Lady Jane Grey was 
confined ; and the Beauchamp Tower, into which Anne Boleyn 
was thrown when she had incurred the suspicion of her capricious 
husband. The Tower was occupied as a royal residence down to 
the reign of Elizabeth, and the crown jewels are still kept theret 
Among these, besides the present Queen's crown, valued a. 
^100,000, is the famous Kohinoor diamond, formerly belonging 
to Runjeet Singh. The "beef-eaters," or warders, in the cos- 
tume of the sixteenth century, conduct visitors to the Armoury 
of Elizabeth, containing, principally, relics of the destruction of 
the Spanish Armada ; and to the Horse Armoury, where stuffed 
figures of horses and men, fully caparisoned, will enable the 
visitor to picture to his imagination the knights- errant and tour- 
naments of the age of chivalry. Here, also, is the dungeon in 
which Sir Walter Raleigh was confined, with his autograph 
scratched on the wall. The Tower is open free to the public 
two days — Monday and Saturday — every week. 

Tower Hill, immediately behind the fortress, was the place of 
execution for State prisoners. The last decapitation which took 
place here was that of Lord Lovat, in 1747. Close by is the 
entrance to the Thames Subway, crossing beneath the river to 
Tooley Street. It was opened for tramway traffic in April, 1870, 
but the cars did not pay, and it is now confined to pedestrians, 
on whom a toll of one halfpenny is levied. It consists of an iron 
tube, seven feet in diameter, and 1,225 feet in length. An older 
and more celebrated construction, of similar description, is 

The Thames Tunnel. 

This difficult undertaking was commenced in 1825, and, after 
numerous mishaps, was at length completed in 1843, at a total 
cost of ,£468,000. It is formed of brickwork, and is thirty- 
seven feet wide and twenty-two in height ; through it run two 
archways, somewhat over sixteen feet in width each. Having 
failed as a route across stream for foot-passengers and carriages, 
it has been purchased by the East London Railway Company, 
who run upwards of forty trains through it daily. 

The Docks 

may now be visited. They are open to the public between the 
hours of eight and four o'clock every day ; but ladies are not 
admitted to the wine-vaults after one o'clock. These, with the 
tobacco warehouses, should not fail to be seen. Admission to 
the latter will be readily obtained by writing and enclosing a 
card to the Dock Secretary, New Bank Buildings. To view the 
former a tasting-order must be obtained from some wine-mer- 
chant. There is storage-room for upwards of 70,000 pipes of 
wines and spirits in these cellars, one of which alone occupies 



23 



354 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 



an area of seven acres, and the warehouses have accommodation 
for 24,000 hogsheads of tobacco. Besides the London Docks, 
there are the St. Katherine's, which cost nearly two millions 
of money ; the East and West India, the Victoria, and, on the 
opposite side of the river, the Commercial and Grand Surrey 
Docks. Returning townwards, visit 

The Mint, 

which is situated to the north-east of the Tower. Admission 
can be obtained by written application to the Deputy Master. 
The yearly coinage averages six millions sterling, and the different 
processes of assaying the bullion, alloying, melting, casting in- 
gots, stamping, etc., are very interesting. 

Another day, or, if possible, more than one, should be devoted 
to visiting 

The South Kensington Museum, 

The Museum is divided into two divisions, the Art Depart- 
ment (including the National Portrait Gallery) and the Science 
Department, comprising illustrations of the different manufac- 
tures and mechanical arts, models of inventions, jewels, porcelain, 
carvings in ivory, wood, and stone, etc. The paintings in the 
Fine Arts Department include, besides the unequalled cartoons 
of Raffaelle, some of the best pieces by Maclise, Reynolds, Land- 
seer, Hogarth, Turner, Gainsborough, Wilkie, Webster, etc. 
There is free admission on Mondays, Tuesdays, and Saturdays, 
from ten a.m. to ten p.m. On other days a charge of 6d. is 
made to all, except students. 

Behind the Museum stand the Exhibition Buildings and the 
Royal Albert Hall. 

The Horticultural Gardens are comprised within the circuit of 
the Exhibition Buildings, and cover an area of about twenty 
cares of most artistically and tastefully laid-out grounds. On 
the north towers the vast cupola of the Royal Albert Hall, at 
the opening of which, in the year 187 1, 8,000 persons were 
accommodated with sitting-room ; and still farther north is the 
Albert Memorial, already mentioned. 

Though we have noticed but a few of the most remarkable 
buildings and places of interest in the Metropolis, we must now 
pass on to short excursions in the neighbourhood, for it would 
be impossible to give an exhaustive description within the limits 
of this hand-book. For further details, we must refer our readers 
to Shaw's Shilling Guide to London and its Environs. 



KE W— RICHMOND. 355 



EXCURSION XIII. 

TO KEW, RICHMOND, HAMPTON COURT, AND WINDSOR 
CASTLE 

KEW and Richmond can be reached by train, omnibus, or 
by the river. We recommend the last route when prac- 
ticable ; but generally there is not sufficient water in the river at 
ebb tide to permit the steamers to reach Richmond. In that 
case the tourist had better take the omnibus. The great attrac- 
tion at 

Kew, 
are the Botanic Gardens, containing, perhaps, the most splendid 
collection of plants in the world. The gardens are about seventy- 
five acres in extent ; but, adding the adjoining pleasure-grounds, 
the entire extent is 240 acres. The great palm-house, 360 feet 
long and ninety in width, together with the new conservatory, 
are, after the Crystal Palace, the largest glass houses in the 
world. The former contains many exotics sixty feet in height. 
Several new hot-houses and a "temperate-house" have lately 
been added ; and an artificial lake has been constructed, which 
is fed through a subterranean passage, by the waters of the 
Thames. The gardens and grounds are open to the public 
every day (Sundays inclusive). The church and palace are 
worthy of inspection. 

Richmond. 

Richmond is situated further up the river, on the south bank, 
which rises behind the town to the acclivity known as Richmond 
Hill. The summit commands most bewitching prospects of 
meadows, woods, and the banks of the river, stretching away 
towards Hampton and Windsor. On the way to the top of the 
hill, the tourist will pass the old parish church, containing the 
tombs of Dr. Moore, author of Zelnco and father of Sir John 
Moore, the subject of Wolfe's Elegy, Mrs. Yates and Charles 
Kean, the celebrated actors, and Thomson, the author of the 
Castle of Indolence, who lived hard by, in a house, now used as 
the Richmond Infirmary. 

Richmond was the site of a royal pa!?ce, of which now only 

I the gateway and a cluster of buildings remain. Many of our 
sovereigns held their courts here ; and two, Edward III. and 
and Elizabeth, died in the palace. The courts of law were re- 

| moved to Richmond during the plague in 1625. 

Bevond the Star and Garttr Hotel, famed for fashionable gather- 



356 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

ings, stretches the eight miles' circuit of the ^handsomely- wooded 
Richmond Park, containing 2, ooo acres. It is one of the largest 
public parks in or near the metropolis ; it is open to the public, 
and, with the far-famed Richmond Hill, is esteemed by foreigners 
as the most beautiful spot in the neighbourhood of London. 
On the other side of the Thames is 

Twickenham, 

the classic spot into which Pope retired with his aged mother, 
and which he delighted in beautifying. The poet's house, how- 
ever, has been taken down to make way for a larger edifice ; 
and the grounds, which were his especial care, and so tastefully 
planned as to revolutionize the then existing Dutch style of gar- 
dening, have been much altered for the worse. Pope's tomb is 
in the parish church. Strawberry Hill, the residence of the 
famous statesman and man of letters, Horace Walpole, is also 
in the vicinity. 

Hampton Court. 

Hampton Court is situated about eight miles farther up the 
river. The palace, now given up as a residence to court 
pensioners, was originally built by Cardinal Wolsey. The 
northern quadrangle, containing the great hall, dates from that 
period. Henry VIII. having appropriated the mansion on the 
fall of his favourite, it became a royal residence, and courts were 
held here from time to time until the reign of George II. The 
greater portion of the structure, as it at present appears, was 
built in the reign of William III. by Sir C. Wren, and consists 
of red brick with stone facings. The ceilings and pannelling 
were painted by Antonio Verrio, and the state apartments con- 
tain a series of the beauties of Charles II. 's court, by Sir Peter 
Lely ; Vandyke's Charles L, the best portrait extant of that 
unfortunate king ; and pieces by Titian, Giulio Romano, Holbein, 
Sebastiano del Piombo, Leonardo da Vinci, Albert Durer, and 
Kneller, to the the number of I, ooo. There are also a fine 
series of cartoons by Andrea Mantegna. The garden and park, 
the former containing a vinery in which is the largest vine in 
Europe, and a maze, are alone worthy of a visit. The palace 
and garden are open free to the public on every day, except 
Friday. From Hampton Court the tourist ought to drive through 
Bushey Park to 

Kingston-on-Thames, 

formerly a Roman station, and the coronation-place of the Saxon 
kings. The stone on which they were crowned is preserved 
with religious care in the principal thoroughfare. Bushey 



WINDSOR CASTLE. 357 

Park, which is open to carriages, horses, and omnibuses, as well 
as to pedestrians, contains about 1,100 acres of land, and an 
avenue of lime and horse-chestnut trees, unsurpassed in the entire 
kingdom. At the time when this avenue is in full blossom, the 
first week in May usually, it presents a very beautiful appearance, 
and is one of the favourite sights of Londoners, who drive down 
in hundreds to see it. 

Windsor Castle. 

Trains run from both Hampton and Kingston to Windsor 
Castle, the most magnificent royal residence in the country. The 
castle was founded by William the Conqueror, but the site was 
previously occupied by a palace of the Saxon kings ; so that it 
has been the chief home of royalty for more than nine centuries. 
It stands on rising ground overlooking the Thames. There are 
two extensive courts, and between them is the round tower, or 
keep, where the governor of the castle resides, and in which 
formerly the accomplished James I. of Scotland was confined. 
It was here that the poet-king wrote his King's Quhair, a 
poem in celebration of the charms of the Lady Jane Beaufort, 
whom he afterwards married. Besides the keep, the Gothic 
chapel in the lower court, and the state apartments in the upper, 
together with the northern terrace and royal mews, are the chief 
points of attraction to the stranger. In the chapel many of the 
English kings and their wives are interred. The Prince Consort's 
mausoleum at Frogmore is yearly visited by the Queen on the 
anniversary of his death, when a solemn service is performed. 
The Knights of the Garter (an order established by Edward III., 
in consequence of an incident at a reception, when the King picked 
up a garter which had been accidentally dropped by one of the 
ladies of the court) are installed in this chapel. ' ' Honi soit qui mal 
vfiense" his reproof of the courtiers, w T ho by their looks insinuated 
that "more was meant than met the eye," was made the motto of 
the order. The state rooms, to which admission is allowed by 
tickets obtainable gratis at Messrs. Colnaghi's, 14, Pall Mall 
East, and elsewhere, are open on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, 
and Fridays, from eleven till six : they are richly embellished 
with paintings, sculpture, and tapestries. The bronzes, arms, and 
emblems are also very fine. Of course, the rooms are not open 
when her Majesty resides at the castle, a fact indicated by the 
hoisting of the royal standard on the round tower. The Home 
Park is closed, but the Great Park, free to the public, and com- 
prising upwards of 4,000 acres, is rich in beautiful scenery. - 
Notice especially the " Long Walk," Heme's Oak, and Virginia 
Water, with its imitation ruins. 
Beautifully situated on the opposite side of the river is 



358 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 



Eton College, 

founded by Henry VI. The view from this point gave rise to 
one of Gray's finest odes. Eton is the best and most aristo- 
cratic public school in the kingdom, and has had the moulding of 
England's greatest literary and political minds. Stoke Pogis, 
close to Eton, was the residence of Gray, the author of the well- 
known Elegy ; he was buried in the churchyard described in 
the poem. 



EXCURSION XIV. 
TO GREENWICH, WOOLWICH, AND GRAVESEND. 

THE next excursion should be made down the river to Green- 
wich, Woolwich, and Gravesend. They maybe reached by 
train, but the steamer is by far the pleasanter mode of conveyance. 
Leaving London Bridge, and passing St. Catherine's and the 
London Docks, Regent's Canal, with the steam-engine and iron 
ship-building yards on the northern side, and the Grand Surrey, 
Commercial, and Deptford Docks on the southern, the steamer 
calls at Greenwich pier, nearly in front of the hospital, and 
close by the Trafalgar and other whitebait-dinner hotels, for 
which Greenwich is famed. 

Greenwich. 

Greenwich, formerly the site of a palace, was celebrated as 
the birthplace of Henry VIII. and Queens Mary and Elizabeth, 
and is now for its hospital, park, and royal observatory. Leland 
has left us a curious picture of the old palace : — 

<c How bright this lofty seat appears, 

Like Jove's great palace, paved with stars ! 

What roofs, what windows, charm the eye ! 

What turrets, rivals of the sky, 

What constant springs, what smiling meads ! 

Here Flora's self in state resides, 

And all around her doth dispense 

Her gifts and pleasing influence." 

The hospital was commenced in the reign of Charles II., after the 
design of Inigo Jones. A second quadrangle was added by Sir 
Christopher Wren, and two more by subsequent architects. It 
thus consists of four distinct structures, but has the appearance of 
one, and constitutes one of the finest piles of buildings in or near the 



metropolis. It is built entirely of Portland stone, with two of the 
four quadrangles facing the river, and two overlooking the park in 
a southern direction. Nearly all the frontages contain massive 
colonnades of the Doric order, and the hall and chapel are sur- 
mounted by dome towers. It was granted as a hospital for disabled 
seamen by William and Mary, and some 14,000 pensioners, of all 
grades, from that of admiral downwards, were constantly main- 
tained here and allowed a certain amount, according to rank, 
for pocket-money. In 1865, however, a new arrangement was 
made, by which most of the pensioners left for the homes of their 
friends, a larger sum being allowed to each of them. Internally, 
the painted hall, the chapel, and the collection of naval models, 
removed from South Kensington, are the chief things to be noticed. 
The former has an elaborately decorated ceiling, painted by Sir 
James Thornhill, who, from the length of time during which he 
was daily lying on his back in the execution of his task, was 
never afterwards able to sit upright. The room is also hung 
with portraits and other paintings, by Sir Peter Lely, Sir God- 
frey Kneller, and Sir Joshua Reynolds. Notice especially in the 
vestibule a portrait, by Dance, of Captain Cook, the circumnavi- 
gator. Among the naval relics are models of the older ships of 
war in which Englishmen gained their reputation, the coat worn 
by Nelson at the battle of the Nile, the astrolabe of Sir Francis 
Drake, and the funeral car of Nelson, besides some relics relating 
to the unfortunate expedition|of Sir J. Franklin. The chapel con- 
tains the " Shipwreck of St. Paul" by West and other paintings. 

Greenwich Park extends southward behind the hospital. Its 
most elevated spot is occupied by the Royal Observatory. The 
park has an area of nearly 200 acres, and is a great holiday resort 
during the summer. The observatory was founded by Charles II. 
The longitude of all British maps and charts is computed from 
the Greenwich meridian, and Greenwich time is the standard by 
which mariners set their chronometers. To facilitate this a large 
ball of wood is raised on the flagstaff at the top of the observa- 
tory a few minutes before one o'clock every day, and is dropped 
by electricity exactly at that hour ; and there is an electric clock 
near the entrance gateway for the use of the public. A fine view 
of the river and the Metropolis is afforded from this elevated point. 

Leaving Greenwich, we shall now proceed to Woolwich, pass- 
ing, on the opposite shore, the ship-building yard of Messrs. 
Scott Russell, where the Great Eastern steamer was built, and 
the North Woolwich Gardens, Hotel, and Pier. Charlton House 
and village will be seen on the right. The former is a richly 
decorated mansion, dating from the reign of James I. 



Woolwich. 

At Woolwich the tourist should visit the Royal Arsenal, Artil- 
lery Barracks, and the Laboratory for the construction of bombs, 
cartridges, grenades, shot, and shells. The arsenal is open on 
Tuesdays and Fridays, but an order of admission must be ob- 
tained from the War Office for viewing the laboratory. The 
Royal Military Academy is situated some distance to the south, 
on the edge of Woolwich Common. 

Taking steamer again, the tourist may proceed to 

Gravesend, 

a watering-place, marking the extreme limit of the port of London. 
Gravesend is an ancient and picturesque town, from the upper 
portion of which, on Windmill Hill, the course of the Thames 
can be followed for forty miles. In the neighbourhood are Cob- 
ham Hall, of which the chief portion was built by Inigo Jones, 
Shorne Church, and Cobham College and Church, all replete 
with most interesting antiquarian remains, and of a high standard 
of architectural beauty. In the hall are preserved many fine 
pictures. Not far from Gravesend are the Rosherville Gardens, 
where the tourist can spend a pleasant evening, and return to 
town by train. 



EXCURSION XV. 
TO THE CRYSTAL PALACE. 

OUR next excursion, which in importance, perhaps, ranks 
first of all, will be to one of the modern wonders of the world 
— the Crystal Palace, at Sydenham. It is, in fact, the Great 
Exhibition building of 1 85 1, transported from its site in Hyde 
Park. Together with the grounds it cost a million and a half 
of money. It can be reached by trains from Willesden Junction, 
Victoria, Charing Cross, Waterloo, Ludgate Hill, or London 
Bridge stations. 

We cannot hope to give an adequate sketch of the wonders 
and beauties of this gigantic fairy castle, and shall therefore con- 
fine ourselves to the merest general outline. The building is 
some 1,600 feet in length, 380 feet in width, and the centre 
transept upwards of 200 feet high. It is built almost entirely of 
glass and iron. The grounds are as extensive as they are beauti- 



THE CRYSTAL PALACE. 361 

ful ; and to those who like a preponderance of artificial, and at 
the same time tasteful, decoration in landscapes, more than the 
solitary ruggedness of " untamed nature," the Crystal Palace, 
with its 200 acres of parterres, intersected by neat gravel walks 
and varied by every description of plant and flower, with its 
water-towers and magnificent fountains, must inevitably appear 
one of the loveliest spots in existence. In connection with 
the fountains and artificial cascades, upwards of 6,000,000 gal- 
lons oi" water are, on gala days, pumped up the tw« huge water- 
towers, and used for obtaining the enormous pressure required. 
There are 12,000 jets playing on these occasions, one of which, 
in the central basin, rises to the height of 250 feet. Besides 
their beauty, the grounds afford opportunities for archery, boat- 
ing, cricket, and athletics of all kinds, while within the palace 
there is every facility for studying and enjoying the fine arts; nor 
is the taste of the botanist, palaeontologist, or geologist unpro- 
vided for. The tourist about to proceed to the Continent will 
find a visit to this repertoire of marvels peculiarly advantageous, 
as the merest tyro in architectural knowledge can, with a very 
little attention, become thoroughly acquainted with the pecu- 
liarities, beauties, and defects of the different styles, from the 
earliest extant Egyptian specimens, dating some seventeen cen- 
turies before the Christian era, down to the latest times. The 
specimens are arranged in courts, of which we may mention the 
Egyptian, Grecian, Roman, Saracenic, Assyrian, Byzantine, with 
the English, French, German, and Italian Mediaeval, the Eliza- 
bethan, and the Renaissance. The illustrations are all correct 
copies ; so that even should the tourist be disinclined or unable 
to visit the ancient remains of continental countries, a most accurate 
idea of them can be here formed. The courts illustrating the 
mechanical and industrial arts include cutlery, porcelain, encaustic 
tiles, and machinery in motion. In the galleries are collections 
of paintings, photographs, and medallion casts, bazaars, Indian 
collections, a museum of raw produce, and a refreshment depart- 
ment. The grand central nave is adorned with marble fountains 
at either end, and with plants and statues throughout. Close to 
the centre transept are the two concert-rooms, w r here are to be 
heard in their turn the most famous vocalists and instrumentalists 
of the world. There is also in the building a marine aquarium, 
containing many interesting specimens. 

The ordinary charge for admission is but one shilling, and 
tickets can be had at any of the railway stations above named, 
including train fare and the entree of the palace. 



362 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 



SECTION XXXV. 

LIVERPOOL TO MANCHESTEE. 

BIDDING farewell to the Metropolis and its vicinity, we 
would now return to Liverpool, and undertake an imagi- 
nary journey from west to east across Lancashire and Yorkshire. 
Leaving Lime Street station, the train passes up the Edge Hill 
tunnel, and at once enters upon one of the most interesting, 
historically speaking, portions of the London and North-Western 
system. See pages 2 and 3. 

After leaving Edge Hill, the train touches at the stations of 
Broad Green, Roby, Huyton, Huyton Quariy, Rainhill, 
and Lea Green, passing which station the tourist will observe 
Rainhill lunatic asylum, a fine pile of buildings, which occupies 
the same position in the persiflage of a Manchester man as does 
Bethlehem Hospital in the conversation of a Cockney. Passing 
Lea Green, the train conveys the tourist to St. Helens Junction, 
where he must change carriages to reach the town of the same 
name, and its immediate neighbourhood. 

St. Helen's 

[Hotels ; "Raven," u Fleece," "Wellington," and " Royal Alfred"], 
with a population of 45,134, is celebrated for the manufacture o* 
plate and crown glass ; indeed, the works of the Union Plate 
Glass Company would well repay a visit. It also contains nume- 
rous alkali, lead, soap, and rope works, besides large foundries. 

Passing Collins Green, we reach Earlestown Junction, where 
are situated the waggon-building works of the London and North- 
Western Railway, covering some thirty-five acres of land, and 
turning out a new waggon every thirty minutes. See page 53. 
The next station is 

Newton Bridge, 

where the Highlanders were defeated in 1648. The printing 
works of M'Corquodale and Co. are well worth a visit. At 

Farkside, 

the traveller will see a tablet, recording the death of Huskisson, 
President of the Board of Trade, who was struck down and killed 
by the "Rocket" engine, while conversing with the Duke of 
Wellington, upon the occasion of the opening of the Liverpool 
and Manchester Railway, the germ of the London and North- 



BARTON MOSS—PA TRICROFT— MANCHESTER. 363 

Western Railway. Next follow Kenyon Junction, Bury Lane, 
Astley, and 

Barton Moss 

stations. It was on this portion of the route that the greatest 
engineering difficulty was encountered in crossing an enormous 
bog, called Chat Moss, which comprised an area of twelve square 
miles, varying in depth from 10ft. to 35ft., and consisting of 
6,000,000 tons of vegetable matter, of so soft and spongy a 
character that cattle could not walk over it. At the next station, 

Patricroft, 

is Nasmyth's celebrated foundry, one of the largest in England, 
The route is continued through Eccles, a prettily-situated little 
village, Weaste, Cross Lane, and Ordsal Lane stations to 

Manchester. 

[Hotels: "Queen's," "Brunswick," "White Bear," "Waterloo," and 
"Albion," in Piccadilly ; "Palatine," Huntsbank ; "Star" and "Bush," 
Deansgate ; "Clarence," Spring Gardens; "Royal," Mosley Street; 
and " Thatched House" and " Old Swan," Market Street.] 

The city of Manchester, including under that name the twin 
borough of Salford, stands on the river Irwell, the two parts 
being connected by numerous bridges. The joint population is 
504,175, of which Salford claims 124,801. The city of Man- 
chester returns three, and the borough of Salford two members 
to the House of Commons. The united towns cover a surface 
of about nine square miles, including the suburbs of Hough, 
Pendleton, Broughton, Cheetham, Smedley, Newton, Miles- 
Platting, Beswick, Ardwick, Chorlton-upon-Medlock, Hulme, 
etc. Although a considerable distance from the sea, Manchester 
is a port, though, practically, Liverpool, distant thirty-one and a 
half miles, is its harbour. The sudden development of the cotton 
and other manufactures of which Manchester is the centre, during 
the last decades of the eighteenth and throughout the present 
century, drawing the raw materials from all parts of the world 
through Liverpool, and again returning the same, but in the form 
of manufactured articles, to every country of the earth, has led 
to the present prosperous state of the sea-port last-mentioned. 
Originally Manchester stood pre-eminent as a cotton-manufac- 
turing city ; it is still the seat of a vast cotton industry, but of 
late years a change has crept over the character of the trans- 
actions. The dearth of sites, or their high value, in the city of 
Manchester, and the facilities for rapid transit afforded by the 



364 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

elaborate railway system which centres there, have led to the 
erection of factories and mills in the outlying districts, embracing 
an area of from ten to thirty miles. Within ten miles of Man- 
chester are such towns as Stockport, Patricroft, Hyde, Staiey- 
Bridge, Ashton, Radcliffe, Middleton, Oldham, Heywood, 
Mottram, Bury, and Bolton. In Oldham, Ashton, and Bolton 
are some of the largest factories. Within a distance of thirty 
miles from Manchester is another cluster of industrial hives, in- 
cluding Rochdale, Glossop, Macclesfield, Leigh, Rawtenstall, 
Haslingden, Todmorden, Wigan, Darwin, Warrington, Bacup, 
Blackburn, Congleton, Huddersfield, Penistone, St. Helen's, 
Burnley, Hebden, and Preston. For many of the manufactures 
of these cities Manchester is the exchange, the commercial metro- 
polis. Huge ranges of warehouses are rising in place of the 
mills and factories. The streets and shops are in their turn 
undergoing reconstruction, and in place of close, unwholesome, 
and ugly streets are rising thoroughfares which will favourably 
compare with any in Europe. Like London, instead of being 
the seat of one trade or branch of trade, overmastering all others 
in importance, a vast variety of trades, handicrafts, and businesses 
are carried on in this commercial emporium. To enumerate the 
occupations which employ the dwellers in Manchester would 
occupy more room than can be afforded in this work ; their mis- 
cellaneous character may be gleaned from the following. First 
come articles made of cotton, of wool, linen, and silk, and the 
mixture of these materials, including worsted stuffs, flannel, 
blankets, ribbons, silks for dresses, embroidered articles, velvets, 
table linen, counterpanes, quilts, crapes, bombazines, jeans, 
nankeens, shawls, and mantles. Other industries send to the 
markets umbrellas, parasols, hats, caps, india-rubber and 
elastic webbing, water and air proof textures. Iron and steel 
manufactures are numerous, embracing steam-engines, locomo- 
tives, and boilers ; and all the branches connected with the 
manufactory of machinery used in the iron trade — tools, railway 
carriages, waggons, rails, stoves, grates, bolts, screens, wire, etc., 
etc. The commercial superiority of Manchester is due to the 
inventive genius of its sons, the introduction of machinery and 
the factory system, the supply of fuel from the coal beds close at 
hand, the invention of the steam-engine, and the elaborate rail- 
way system connecting it with all parts of the United Kingdom 
and with its ports. The improvements of the city as a habitable 
town dates from the year 1838, when it was incorporated, and 
more especially from the year 1845, when the corporation bought 
the manorial rights from Sir Oswald Mosley for ^200,000. The 
revenue from this source and the profits from the gas and water 
supply which have fallen into the hands of the city magnates, 



MANCHESTER. 



give the corporation a considerable income, from which large 
sums have been and are devoted to the improvement of Man- 
chester. The gas-works alone in the year 1865-6 yielded a profit 
of ^"52,553, and more than a third of the revenue thus obtained is 
annually placed at the disposal of the public improvement depart- 
ment. The water supply of Manchester is obtained from two 
sources, Prestwich and Woodhead, where are huge reservoirs of 
pure water. The large storage grounds, obtained by the cor- 
poration in 1867 among the Prestwich Hills, supply the northern 
and higher districts of Manchester. The reservoirs at Wood- 
head supply on a daily average twenty-five million gallons. 
The storage capacity exceeds 611 million cubic feet, or 3,828 
million gallons. The works were acquired in the year 1866 for 
the sum of ,£1,500,000 ; the revenue derived from the sale of the 
water is about ^58,000 annually. The annual rental in 1867 of 
Manchester, exclusive of Salford, was £1, 768,614, of the lattei 
town ^430, 648. 

Manchester is well off for places of public worship. It contains 
upwards of eighty churches, many having been built in recent years. 
The Wesleyan bodies are well represented with about ninety 
places of worship, the Congregationalists muster thirty-three, the 
Presbyterians and Unitarians each nine, the Roman Catholics 
eighteen, Baptists eleven, while the Friends, Bible Christians, 
Jews, New Jerusalem, Catholic Apostolic Church, and other 
communions worship in more than twelve edifices. 

Manchester and Salford are connected by seven bridges, five 
of which are free. The river Irwell, which flows beneath these 
bridges, is subject, owing to its sources being among the hills, to 
sudden flushes of water, which have often been disastrous in their 
consequences. In 1866 a flood lay the lower parts of Salford 
under water, drowning some people in their houses and doing a 
great amount of damage to hundreds of dwellings. 

According to Mr. Whitaker, the historian, "The parish of 
Manchester was originally a wild unfrequented track of woodland, 
inhabited merely by the boar, the wolf, and the bull, and tra- 
versed only by the hunters of the neighbouring county. In the 
first visit of the Romans to Britain, under Julius Caesar, it 
does not appear that the invaders penetrated as far north as 
Lancashire, and it is not till the time of Agricola (a.d. 79) that 
Manchester passed under the Roman yoke. At that period the 
tumults of war were introduced amongst the peaceable inhabitants, 
and Manchester was occupied by levies from the banks of the 
Tiber. A Roman station was constructed in the Castlefield, 
near tke confluence of the Medlock with the Irwell, and another 
establishment about a mile to the north of it, at the confluence 
of the Irk with the same river, received a colony of inhabitants 



366 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

who made it their summer residence. " As late as 1700 remains 
of the ancient castle of Manchester were found by Dr. Stukeley, 
in a yard behind Bridgewater Street. Other Roman remains 
have been found in a place called Castlefield, between Deansgate 
and the Irwell. The Romans called the town Mancunuim ; later 
it was called by the Saxons, Mancestre. Manchester was one of 
the thirty-seven towns appointed in England to coin money by 
Canute. The Romans had disappeared about the year 426, and 
three years after the town was plundered by the Picts and Scots. 
In the year 446, Manchester became a parish. In 620 King Edwin, 
having subdued the town, placed it under a lord or theyn, who 
ruled the town from his " baron's hall," on the site of the Roman 
summer camp. In 627 a Roman missionary, called Paulinus, 
converted the natives to Christianity by his preaching. The Danes 
fell upon the town in the year 870, and so prostrated it that Salford 
obtained the precedence and gave its name to the hundred when 
Alfred divided England into counties and hundreds. Robert de 
Gresley, Baron of Manchester, was one of the Barons who at Run- 
nemede demanded John's signature to the Magna Charta, June 
1 2th, 121 5. A later baron, Thomas de Gresley, granted the great 
charter by which Manchester became a free borough. Little further 
is known of Manchester till the time of the Tudors, when Leland 
described it in his topographical survey as the most populous town 
in the county, and noted for its woollen goods (even then called the 
cottons), a manufacture introduced by the Flemings into England 
in the reign of Edward III. Camden described Manchester as 
' ' beyond the neighbouring towns in elegance and populousness ; " 
this was at a period near the close of Elizabeth's reign. The 
historian further says, "Here is a woollen manufacture, church, 
market, and college, founded by Thomas Lord de la Warre, who 
took orders, and was the last male heir of his family, in the time 
of Henry V. He was descended from the Gresleys, who are 
said to be the ancient lords of the town. In the last age it was 
much more famous for stuffs, called Manchester cottons, and the 
privilege of sanctuary, which the Parliament, under Henry VIIL, 
transferred to Chester." Later on, Dr. Stukeley visited the town 
and described and published his impressions in his Itinerariiun 
Curiosum, 1724. "It is," he says, "the largest, most rich, 
populous, and busy village in England. There are about 2,400 
families. Their trade, which is incredibly large, consists much in 
fustians, girth-webs, tickings, tapes, etc. , which are dispersed all 
over the kingdom, and to foreign parts. They have looms which 
work twenty-four laces at a time, which were stolen from the 
Dutch. There is a free school here, maintained by a mill upon 
the river, which raises ^"ioo per annum. And on the same 
river, for the space of three miles upwards, there are no less than 



MANCHESTER, 367 

sixty water-mills. " The writer then proceeds to describe their man- 
ners and customs thus : "The inhabitants have been very indus- 
trious, and applied themselves closely to their respective businesses, 
always contriving and inventing something new, to improve or set 
off their goods, and having not much followed the extravagance 
which prevails in other places — as in dress, servants, equipage, 
wine, entertainments, etc. By these means they have acquired, 
very many of them, very handsome fortunes, and live thereupon 
in a plain, useful, and regular manner, after the custom of their 
forefathers ; though it must be confessed that of late they have 
departed rather too much, some of them of the younger sort, 
from that simplicity, neatness, and frugality which their ances- 
tors valued themselves for, and with very good reason." 

Manchester was closely associated with the troubles which fell 
upon the nation during the Civil War, when it vigorously 
espoused the side of the Parliamentarians. Here the first blow 
was struck between the royal forces and those of the common- 
wealth. The town was attacked by the troops of King Charles, 
led by James, Lord Strange, son of the Earl of Derby, 
on the 5th of July, 1642. It was resolutely defended by the 
Puritans, and the Royalists were compelled to retreat with a loss 
of twenty-seven men, the town losing twelve men. On the 25th 
of September following the Royalists brought a larger force, 
consisting of 4,000 foot, 200 dragoons, 100 light horse, and 
seven pieces of cannon, against the town. This attack, lasting 
several days, was even more unsuccessful, the besiegers having 
200 killed. The town lost only four. An army again appeared 
before Manchester in the following year, under the command of 
the Earl of Newcastle, but the town being now fortified with four 
pieces of brass cannon and showing an equally brave front, that 
leader thought it wise not to attempt the assault. As an ac- 
knowledgment of its bravery, Manchester sent a member to the 
Parliament called by the Protector Cromwell, a privilege it lost 
at the Restoration. 

The Stuart dynasty had many friends in Lancashire, who took 
an active part in the abortive attempts of 1 7 1 5 and 1 745 of that 
family to repossess themselves of the throne. Several of their 
adherents were executed in Manchester in the year 1716, follow- 
ing the fight at Preston. On the 29th of November, 1745, Prince 
Charles Edward entered Manchester, and was proclaimed under 
the title of James III. While in the town he made the house of 
Mr. Dickenson, of Market-street Lane, his residence. The 
house was afterwards known as the Palace Inn, but its site 
is now covered with warehouses. A regiment of three hundred 
men joined the standard of the Prince, and shared the disasters 
of the unfortunate expedition. The equivocal bearing of many 



368 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE, 

of the inhabitants of Manchester at this time is admirably ex- 
pressed in the famous lines of Dr. Byrom, a local Jacobite, — 

" God bless the King ! I mean our faith's defender ; 
God bless — no harm in blessing — the Pretender ; 
But who Pretender is, or who is King, 
God bless us all, is quite another thing. " 

About this time the intellectual activity of the country was 
directed to the improvement of those branches of manufactures 
which were destined to give a glory to England far greater than 
any achievement of arms. The enterprise and inventive genius 
of the inhabitants of Manchester gave the town a first place in 
the race. One of the greatest aids was the canal by which the 
Duke of Bridgewater and the engineer, Brindley, put Manchester 
in direct connection with his lordship's coal-fields, The recent 
history of Manchester is quickly told. The inhabitants have 
been loyal and devoted to liberal and popular movements. The 
school of Manchester politicians have had a sensible effect upon 
the general policy of the country, and have furnished some of 
the greatest, most influential, and eloquent exponents of the 
popular will to the House of Commons. In 1819 occurred the 
unfortunate " Peterloo Massacre," when the yeomanry of the 
district and the troops of the line came in contact with the 
populace, assembled in a public meeting, called by Henry 
Hunt, a blacking-maker, for the purpose of petitioning the 
House of Commons in favour of Reform and the repeal of the 
Corn Laws. Many lives were lost and several persons were 
wounded. As the result of the sharp agitation, Manchester was 
empowered by the Reform Bill of 1832 to send two members to 
the House of Commons. In 1838 the town obtained its 
charter of incorporation. It had previously been governed 
by officers elected at the lord of the manor's court-leet — a 
borough reeve, constables, etc. In 1848, Manchester and a great 
part of Lancashire was taken from the see of Chester and erected 
into a bishopric. The collegiate church became the cathedral of 
the new see. In 1853 tne municipal and parliamentary borough 
received the title of city. The Art Exhibition of 1857 drew 
large numbers to Manchester. It was opened on the 5th of May 
by Prince Albert, and was visited by her Majesty the Queen on 
the 30th of June. More recently, in 1867, Manchester was the 
scene of a Fenian outbreak, a number of armed men attacking 
a band of constabulary, one of whom was killed by a pistol 
shot. Three of the assailants were afterwards executed in Man- 
chester gaol. 

The real history of the Manchester of to-day is a history of 
invention as applied to manufactures and particularly to the 
cotton industry, a subject which space forbids us entering into at 



all at large. The loom must have been an institution for some 
time previous to the breaking out of the Civil War, for in a 
mercantile work published in 1641 we read of the inhabitants 
buying " cotton wool in London that comes from Cyprus and 
Smyrna," and working " the same into fustians, vermillions, 
dimities, and other such stuffs, which they return to London, 
where they are sold ; and thence not seldom are sent into 
foreign parts, which have the means on far easier terms to 
provide themselves of the first material." The mode of spin- 
ning and elongating by rollers was invented by James Wyatt and 
Lewis Paul, in 1733. Five years after John Kay, of Bury, intro- 
duced the fly-shuttle. The first spinning-jenny was introduced 
by Thomas Highs, of Leigh, in the year 1763. In 1767 James 
Hargreaves produced an improvement of the spinning -jenny. 
Two years after, 1769, Richard Arkwright originated the water- 
frame. In 1772 John Kay, of Bury, sold his invention of a 
double jenny to the manufacturers of Manchester for £2 10. To- 
wards the close of the same decade, in 1 769, Samuel Crompton's 
mule-jenny was invented ; it was a combination of the jenny and 
water-frame. One of the most active of the Manchester manufac- 
turers of this period was the first Sir Robert Peel. By his means 
the proprietors of factories were induced to form a society for buy- 
ing up the rights of the various inventors, whose patents stood in 
the way of the progress of the manufacture. The result of the 
movement was that a vast impetus was given to the freed manu- 
facture. In 1785 Arkwright patented improved carding, draw- 
ing, and roving-machines, which were bought up by the 
association of masters. About the same time the firm of Boulton 
and Watts were producing, in their factory at Soho, a new motive 
machine, which should supersede the water-mill and the use of 
manual power. Another invention more directly connected with 
the local industry was the power-loom of Dr. Edmund Cart- 
wright, of Hollander House, patented in 1785. In the perfecting 
of this machine, two years after, ended one era in the progress of 
invention as applied to the Manchester manufacturers. The 
production of calicoes and cotton muslins now began to super- 
sede all other industries. With his inventions Richard Ark- 
wright had introduced the factory system ; the Duke of Bridge- 
water's canal brought inexhaustible quantities of coals to the 
doors of the manufacturers. The first factory was built in 
Miller's Lane : its tall chimney became one of the sights of the 
town. In 181 2 Mr. Wright, of Manchester, introduced a double 
mule, for which Parliament awarded him £5, 000. Another most 
important stride was made when Mr. Richard Roberts, of Sharp, 
Roberts, and Co., elaborated the self-acting mule, during the 
years 1825-30, appropriately named "a marvel of ingenuity." 

24- 



370 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

" These men," in the words of a recent writer, "and others who 
have since succeeded them, by indefatigable perseverance, have 
overcome every difficulty in the manufacture of the delicate fibre 
they had to manipulate, in the various processes through which 
it had to pass — the willow, the scutcher, the carding-engine, the 
drawing-frame, the slubbing-frame, the roving-frame, the self- 
acting-mules, the throstle-frames, the beaming-engine, the 
doubling-frame, and the power-loom — all have been the subjects 
of mechanical skill, and their never-ceasing approach to perfec- 
tion has maintained Manchester in its proud position as the 
manufacturing metropolis of the world." On these machines 
thread as fine as 460 hanks to the pound is spun, each hank 
containing 840 yards ; and every variety of cotton, silk, and 
mixed goods is woven. The rate at which the manufacture of 
cotton has progressed during the last two centuries may be 
gleaned from the following figures : — 

In 1697, the amount of cotton imported was 1,976,359 lbs. 

In 1720, , ; ,, ,, 1,972,805 lbs. 

In 1 741, ,, ,, ,, 1,645,031 lbs. 

In 1751, ,, ,, ,, 2,976,610 lbs. 

In 1764, ,, ,, , , 3,870,392 lbs. 

In 1780, ,, ,, ,, 6,700,000 lbs. 

In 1790, ,, ,, ,, 31,500,000 lbs. 

In 1S00, ,, ,, ,, 56,000,000 lbs. 

In 1856, ,, ,, ,, 1,021,021,000 lbs. 

In i860, ,, „ ,, 1, 0S3, 600,000 lbs. 

The value of the cotton manufactures of Lancashire in the 
year i860 is estimated by Mr. Bazley at ^85,000,000. The 
number of cotton factories in work in the district the same year 
is stated to be 1,979, employing 306,423 power looms, 21,530,523 
spindles, and a horse power of 205,827. In the year 1861, it 
is calculated that 383,674 persons were employed in the cotton 
mills, 26,622 in the silk mills, and 15,826 in the flax and woollen 
mills ; so that rather more than one million persons (including the 
families of the operatives) were in that year dependent upon the 
manufacturing industries of Lancashire for support. A great 
blow fell upon the cotton trade during the American war 
between the north and south. Most of the mills were closed, 
the operatives thrown out of employment and upon their own 
resources. It was a time of poignant distress nobly borne. 
The sterling character of the cotton employes stood the trial and 
emerged without a taint of the demoralization which it was feared 
public support would engender. 

Manchester, unlike many towns of smaller size, is very poor 
in monuments, sacred or civil, having claims to antiquity. The- 
oldest and finest structure in the city is 

The Cathedral, which, though dating from 1422, does not pre- 



sent the appearance of a building beautified by the hand of time. 
This is owing to the refacings and reconstructions of late years. 
The first stone was laid by the founder, Thomas West, Lord de 
la Warre. It was occupied by "The Guild or Company of the 
Blessed Virgin in Manchester," consisting of a warden, Dr. Hunt- 
ingdon, who had the right of fishing for eels in the river Irk, eight 
fellows, four clerks, and six choristers. The old church has been 
repaired and restored by the exertions of the dean and chapter. 
The work was begun in 1S45, three years before the constitution 
of the diocese, and was not finished till 1 868, the total expense 
of the restoration amounting to the sum of ^35, 000. It is in 
the Perpendicular Gothic style, and takes the form of an irregu- 
lar parallelogram . It consists of a nave and chancel, or choir 
without transepts, with a western tower and porch, and an 
eastern lady chapel or chantry, The various chapels are called 
the Strangeway's, or Ducie Chapel, Bebby's Chapel, TrafTord 
Chapel, Derby Chapel, Ely Chapel, Chetham Chapel, Byrom 
Chapel, and the Chapter House. The cathedral is 220 feet 
long and 112 feet broad. The chief point to be noticed is the 
richly- embellished roof, the beautifully- carved tabernacle work 
and canopies of the bishop's throne and choir stalls, and the 
memorial windows. There is also a fine statue by Theed of 
Humphrey Chetham, who died in 1653. He was the founder 
of the Chetham Hospital and the Free Library. The tower, the 
reconstruction of which was finished in 1S67, is a splendid 
example of the style. St. Anne's Church, in St. Anne's Square, 
was built in 1709. St. John's Church contains some admired 
paintings; in the churchyard are the remains of John Owens, the 
founder of Owens College. St. Peter's Church has a fine altar- 
piece, by Annibal Carracci, the "Descent from the Cross." St. 
Matthew's Church was built after designs by Sir Charles Barry, 
in 1825. There are many other churches and chapels, which 
we have not space to notice. 

The Assize Courts, an excellent example of Gothic architecture, 
in Great Ducie Street, Strange ways, were finished in 1864. The 
designs were made by Mr. Alfred Waterhouse ; the building was 
erected at a cost of^ 100, 000. The front in Great Ducie Street is 
250 feet long, and has the great advantage of standing 100 feet 
away from the road, so that its noble proportions, loftiness, and 
harmonious richness of detail can be fully appreciated. The facade 
in South-hall Street is 150 feet long. The buildings occupy a 
plot of land rectangular in shape, 270 feet by 170. The height 
to the cornice is 56 feet, divided into three stories, the roof is 
20 feet higher. An octagonal tower, rising to a height of 210 
feet, is an imposing feature of the southern facade. It serves as 
a ventilating shaft for the courts below. Near the top is a 



372 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

gallery, from which good views of the town may be obtained. 
The windows of the portico are very rich in design. In the 
niches are life-size statues of eminent personages, including Alfred 
the Great, Edward L, Glanville, Gascoigne, Henry II., Sir T. 
More, Coke, and Sir M. Hall. A handsome crocketed gable 
surmounts the portico, the finial of the gable supporting a 
colossal figure of the great law-giver, Moses, holding the books 
of the law. In the gable is a beautiful stained-glass rose 
window of exquisite design, through which many- coloured lights 
are transmitted to the tiled hall within. The corbels of the first 
storey windows are decorated with carved portrait heads of the 
sovereigns of England. The principal feature of the building is, 
however, the great hall, a magnificent apartment ioo feet long, 
75 feet high, and 48 feet wide. The proportions of this hall are 
very fine, the colouring is rich, and the architectural details 
unique. It has an open-timbered ceiling, and there are stained 
glass windows at each end. From the great hall the various 
courts and apartments appropriated to the use of the judges, 
sheriffs, barristers, etc., open. The civil and criminal courts are 
lofty rooms, 59 feet long by 45 feet broad. 

The County Gaol is an immense brick building, standing in the 
rear of the Assize Courts, with which it is connected by subter- 
ranean passages. Ten million bricks were used in its construction, 
which was completed in 1849. It has accommodation for 432 
prisoners : three wings are for male prisoners and one for female, 
while another wing contains the chapel, hospital, etc. The 
front of the building is in Hyde Road. 

The New Free Trade Hall is the most celebrated building in 
Manchester. It stands in Peter Street, near the scene of the 
" Peterloo Massacre," and on the site of a former and smaller 
building, in which the " Anti-Corn Law League " planned their 
agitation for the repeal of the " Protective" Acts. The present 
building is in* the Lombardo-Venetian style, and was built at a 
cost of ^40,000, from designs by Mr. E. Walters. The large 
hall is 130 feet long, 78 feet wide, 52 feet high, with seat accom- 
modation for about 5,000 persons ; it is capable, however, of 
holding 7,000. It has a fine organ, and is otherwise fitted up 
for conceits and other entertainments. A gallery runs round the 
hall, in addition to which there are three balconies at one end, 
and an orchestra at the other. There are also subsidiary apart- 
ments of considerable size, suitable for small gatherings. The 
assembly-room and supper-room will each accommodate 650 per- 
sons. The political life of Manchester is clearly associated with 
this fine hall. Here the late Mr. Cobden and John Bright made 
their most memorable speeches in favour of the repeal of the Corn 
Laws and the Reform Bill. A statue of the former statesman 



modelled by Mr. Marshall Wood, was erected in St. Ann's 
Square, and uncovered on the 22nd of April, 1867, by the 
President of the Reform League, Mr. George Wilson. 

The Town Hall, in King Street, was built in 1825, from designs 
by Mr. Goodson. The idea of the building is derived from the 
Temple of Erectheus at Athens, the central dome was suggested 
to the architect by the octagonal tower of Andronicus, or the 
Tower of the Wind. The total cost of this structure was 
;£39o47« The length of the facade is 134 feet, with a depth of 
76 feet. It contains a public hall, the council-chamber, mayor's 
parlour, and corporation library. It also contains several busts 
and portraits of ancient persons. 

The New Town Hall. The accommodation furnished by the 
existing Town Hall proving altogether inadequate to the needs of 
the corporation, it was resolved in 1868 to erect a New Town 
Hall, from the designs of Mr. Alfred Waterhouse, the architect of 
the Assize Courts, at a cost of not more than ^250, 000. The 
site of the new edifice is bounded by Albert Square, Princess 
Street, Cooper Street, and Lloyd Street. The style of the new 
structure is Gothic, and bids fair to be an honour to Man- 
chester. 

The Royal Exchange. The first Manchesler Exchange was 
built by the lord of the manor, Sir Oswald Mosley, in 1729, 
at the foot of Market Street. This building was pulled down 
in 1792. Manchester was without an exchange till the year 
1806, when a building was erected on the site of the present 
structure. This was considerably altered and enlarged in 
1839, but still proving too limited for the increasing business 
which flowed through Manchester, another edifice, the present 
old Exchange, was built and opened in 1849. The area 
of this building is 1737 square yards, a larger structure devoted 
to this purpose than any other city contains, yet such has been 
the rapid increase of commercial transactions that the spacious 
floor is found too small to accommodate the merchants and 
spinners who throng it. In 1866 the designs of Messrs. Mills 
and Murgatroyd were accepted for a new exchange, to be built 
upon a site in Cross Street, of much larger dimensions. It will 
have facades in Market Street, Exchange Street, and Bank Street. 
One part is already so complete as to afford accommodation to 
the "cotton lords," etc., in the transaction of their business. 
The level of the exchange room floor is about nine feet above 
Cross Street, and has an area of 5,170 square yards, of which 
400 are absorbed by staircases, committee-room, etc. The room 
is 207 feet long, 193 feet wide, 80 feet high ; the roof is 
supported by two rows of pillars. 

The Corn Exchange is in Hanging Ditch. It has a classical 



374 LONDON AND NORTH- WESTERN GUIDE. 



stone frontage, and contains a hall 80 feet by 70 feet, lighted 
from the roof, and capable of holding 2,400 persons. 

The Eoyal Infirmary, in Piccadilly, was built on Greek 
models, but at different periods, and has been considerably 
enlarged. The latest additions have been the two wings, 
facing Portland Street and Mosley Street respectively, and 
the new front erected to harmonize with these enlarge- 
ments, together with the circular tower and dome. It is 
now one of the finest architectural monuments in Manchester. 
It stands in extensive grounds, laid out in paths and grass 
pldts, by Sir Joseph Paxton. A grand esplanade 11ms in 
front of the principal facade, on which are placed some 
colossal statues in bronze, of the Duke of Wellington, Sir 
Robert Peel, Watt, and Dalton. The Royal Infirmary was 
founded as early as 1753. It has six physicians and surgeons, 
resident surgeons and apothecaries, and an annual income of 
^"9,000. It relieves yearly about 20,000 patients. Jenny Lind 
sang twice in the Free Trade Hall in aid of the funds to increase 
the accommodation of the Infirmary. The circular tower and 
dome was added in 1853, and one of the best clocks in the king- 
dom placed in it ; the clock is kept at correct Greenwich time 
by means of electric communication. 

Owen's College owes its origin to a bequest of the late 
John Owens of the sum of nearly ,£100,000. The college was 
formerly housed in Quay Street, in a former dwelling-place 
of Mr. Cobden. Mr. Owens died in 1846. The college com- 
menced operations in March, 1 851. It is now removed to a 
pile of Gothic buildings built from designs by Mr. A. Water- 
house, in Oxford Street. The new premises were opened by 
the Duke of Devonshire on the 7th October, 1873. The college 
is taking a very high position in the teaching of science. Much 
attention in the new building has been given to the fitting up of 
the various laboratories, which are equal to any in the kingdom. 
The site was obtained at a cost of ,£31,000. 

Chetham College, or Blue Coat Hospital, is one of the few 
antiquities of Manchester, if an institution which dates only 
from the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries can be considered 
antiquated. The college was originally the dwelling-place 
of the clergy attached to the collegiate church. In 1651 
Humphrey Chetham left by will a sum of money in the hands 
of trustees to purchase the college and found an hospital for the 
"maintaining, educating, bringing up, and apprenticing forty 
healthy boys born in wedlock, the sons of honest and industrious 
parents." Under the careful management of the feoffees or 
trustees the property devised has increased in value and is now 
able to support and educate a hundred boys. The Chetham 



MANCHESTER, 375 



library contains about 25,000 volumes, and may be freely visited 
by the public. An inspection of that portion of the quad- 
rangle will repay the visitor in interest. 

The Grammar School is one of the most important educational 
endowments of Manchester. It was founded by Hugh Oldham, 
Bishop of Exeter, in 1515? wno endowed it with an income derived 
from corn and fulling mills on the Irk. It has an income of about 
^4,500, with which it educates 350 boys, a hundred of whom pay 
twelve guineas per year. By the original trust the master of the 
school was enjoined to "teach freely and indifferently every child 
coming to the school, of whatever county or shire, without any 
money or other reward taken therefor, as cock-penny, victor- 
penny, potation penny, or any other whatsoever, except only his 
said stipend or wages,''' a burden the corn and fulling mills of the 
Irk would be unequal to in the present day. The connection of 
the Grammar School with Brazenose College, Oxford, and St, 
John's College, Cambridge, to which it has the right of several 
scholarships, makes it a valuable school. The school is in Long 
Millgate. De Quincey received part of his education there. 

The Manchester Koyal Institution is housed in Mosley Street, 
in a building designed by the architect of the Kew Houses of 
Parliament. The institution sprung into being in October, 1823. 
The Doric edifice in Mosley Street was built during the years 
1825-30. The length of the front is 170 feet, the depth of the 
building 84 feet. Its object is to encourage the taste for the fine 
arts, and a knowledge of literature and science. It contains a 
collection of casts of the Elgin marbles and other objects of art. 
A school of design is also in connection with it. Its lecture- 
theatre will seat eight hundred persons. There are also extensive 
galleries and other rooms. 

The Athenaeum, in Bond Street, containing news and lecture 
rooms, a theatre, and library, is remarkable as being the 
nursery of Cobden's eloquence. It has, at different times, 
been presided over by Charles Dickens, Emerson, Disraeli, 
and Lord Chief Justice Cockburn. 

The Mechanics' Institution is situated in David Street, a 
home it became possessed of in 1857, at a cost of ^22,000. 
It is one of the most valuable educational agencies in Manchester ; 
as day and evening classes are open to children and youths of 
both sexes. Its library contains 17,000 volumes. The lecture- 
hall and lectures are special features. 

The Museum of Natural History originally belonged to the 
Natural History Society of Peter Street, who made over the 
collection of animals, birds, fishes, reptiles, shells, corallines, 
minerals, and fossils to the authorities of Owens College. In 
Peter Street is also the collection of the Geological Society. 



376 LOXDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

The Free Library is one of the most admirable institutions of 
Manchester, having branches in Rochdale Road, Ancoats, Hulme, 
and Rusholme Road. The Central Library is established upon a 
site known as Camp Field, in Byron Street, Deansgate. A large 
room on the ground-floor, used as a reading-room, is supplied 
with all the principal newspapers ; the lending library, consisting 
of thousands of books, is also located in it. An upper apart- 
ment contains the reference library, consisting of some 38,500 
books, which do not leave the premises. The library is opened 
to all, and should be visited. The other libraries in Manchester, 
besides those already referred to, are the Portico Library, con- 
taining some 20,000 volumes ; the Law Library, in Norfolk 
Street, with 4,000 volumes ; and the Foreign Library, in St. 
Ann's Street, containing 8,000 volumes in French, Italian, 
Spanish, German, etc. 

The Warehouses of Manchester are important features in the 
street architecture of to-day, and are examples of taste con- 
trasting brightly with business erections only a few decades 
earlier. Among the most magnificent are those of Messrs. 
S. and J. Watts and Co., and Mr. Mendel, in Portland Street ; 
R. Barbour and Co., in Aytoun Street : and John Pender and Co., 
in Mount Street. Some of the Manufactories of Manchester 
should also be visited by the tourist, who will find interest in 
Messrs. James Houldsworth and Co.'s silk manufacturing works, 
in Portland Street ; the cotton-spinning mills of Messrs. W. R. 
Callender and Co., of Water Street ; the cotton and mixed goods 
mills of Armitage and Sons, in Pendleton ; and the machine-tools 
and rifled guns and cannons of Messrs. Joseph Whitworth and Co., 
in Chorlton Street. 

The Albert Memorial stands in Albert Square. The statue is 
by Mr. Noble. 

Public Parks. 

Manchester and Salford are furnished with four public parks 
Peel Park, in the latter township, was founded in 1845, by public 
subscription. It was opened on the 22nd October, 1846. It con- 
tains an area of thirty-eight acres, much of which is laid out in 
ornamental flower-beds ; it is embellished with marble statues of the 
Queen, Prince Albert, and Mr. Cobden, and bronze statues of Sir 
Robert Peel and Mr. Joseph Brotherton, all the work of Mr. Noble. 
Far more of the surface is usefully apropriated to the use of the 
children, who throng the grounds for recreation. A space of five 
acres is used as cricket grounds, besides which there are a skittle 
alley, three gymnasia, and a yard for the game of quoits. Eighty 
thousand Sunday School children welcomed her Majesty by singing 
the National Anthem in Peel Park, on her visit to Manchester in 



MANCHESTER. 377 



185 1. A special feature of Peel Park is the free library, news room, 
and museum, which are contained in an edifice in the grounds. 
The museum contains a collection of classical and oriental anti- 
quities, casts of celebrated architectural detail, armour, objects in 
plastic ware, natural history specimens, etc. It also has a gallery of 
oil-paintings, engravings, chromo-lithographs, etc. Eight million 
visitors have visited the gallery, museum, and library since it was 
open to the public. The Queen's Park was originated by the 
same movement which brought Peel Park and Philip's Park 
into existence. Subscriptions were called for at a meeting of the 
inhabitants held in August 1844. In May, 1845, the sum of 
^"7,280 was paid for the house and grounds, about thirty 
acres, of Hendham Hall, near Harpurhey Cemetery. The house 
has been used to contain a collection of antiquities and objects 
of natural history. The grounds contain fountains, small lakes, 
gymnasia, cricket lawns, etc., and are of a pleasant park-like 
character. On the 22nd of October, 1846, Philip's Park was 
given over to the use of the inhabitants of the thickly-peopled 
districts of Ancoats and Holt Town. It was purchased for 
;£6,20O, and consists of thirty-one acres of land. The Alexandra 
Park was added to the recreation grounds of Manchester in 
September, 1870. It consists of some thirty acres situated at 
Moss Side, Chorlton. 

The Botanical Gardens, at Old Trafford, are well worthy of a 
visit. They belong to a private society, but are occasionally 
thrown open to the public. The gardens are prettily laid out, 
and cover about sixteen acres ; they are ornamented with a lake, 
conservatory, etc. 

Before leaving Manchester, a visit should be paid to 

Belle- Vue Gardens, 

a place of holiday resort, situated about three miles from 
the city in an easterly direction. The popularity of these gar- 
dens is a consequence of the enterprise displayed by the pro- 
prietors, the Messrs. Jennison. They may be visited by rail 
from the London Road station, alighting at the Longsight 
station. The principal attraction, since 1852, has been a series 
of huge pictures exhibited in the open air, with all the glamour 
which coloured lights, pyrotechny, explosions of mines and 
cannon, moving figures, etc., could cast upon them. The subjects 
imitated in these displays are such as appeal to one's patriotic 
feelings ; they have included the bombardment of Algiers, 
storming of Seringapatam, fall of Sebastopol, siege of Gibralter, 
fall of Delhi, etc., etc. A spacious music hall, 222 feet long 
and 105 feet broad, is devoted to balls, concerts, musical contests, 
and large dinner parties. The ceiling is decorated with reduo- 



378 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

tions of the pictures displayed in the grounds. Other paintings, 
illustrating the seasons, portraits of celebrated men, and ideal 
scenes adorn the walls. Sweet music is discoursed from an 
orchestra of an octagonal form, with which is associated an ex- 
tensive space set apart for dancing. Lakes are provided for 
those who desire muscular exercise ; whilst visitors who crave for 
knowledge are catered for in a museum of stuffed birds and 
beasts, a menagerie of wild animals, a monkey house of very 
considerable extent, and a large aviary. Greenhouses are set 
apart for the cultivation of rare plants ; whilst extensive beds of 
flowers give brilliancy to the grounds. The younger visitors can 
enjoy the excitements of equestrian exercise upon horses driven 
by steam or lose themselves in the devious windings of the maze. 



SECTION XXXVI. 

MANCHESTER (London Road Station) TO BUXTON, HAD- 
DON HALL, CHATSWORTH, MATLOCK, AND DERBY- 
SHIRE. 

IEAVING Manchester by the London Road station, we 
-J successively pass the stations of Longsight (Belle-vue), 
Levenshulme, Heaton Chapel, Heaton Norris, and arrive at 

Stockport 

[Hotels: "Commercial," "George/' "Hope and Anchor," "Red 
Lion," "Sun," " Vernon Arms," and "Warren Buckley Arms *'], 

a very irregularly built town, containing a population of 53,014, 
chiefly occupied in the cotton manufactures. The River Mersey 
divides the town into two unequal parts, the northern part being 
in Lancashire, the southern in Cheshire. It was here the old 
Roman road crossed the Mersey, a fort commanding the ford. 
An inn now occupies the site. The principal ecclesiastical 
edifices are St. Mary's, recently restored, St. Thomas's, a classi- 
cal structure, built in 1825, and a Gothic chapel, with a spire 
126 feet high. Five bridges connect the two parts of the town. 
The buildings most worthy of remark are the factories, the 
Grammar School, founded in 1487, and the Infirmary. Fitty or 
sixty factories are scattered through the town ; the different ele- 
vations at which they stand give them, when lighted up, a pecu- 
liar and striking appearance-. One of the largest, Mainland's, is 



WHALE Y BRIDGE— CHAPEL-EN-LE-FRITIL 379 

300 feet long, and has 600 windows in its three stories. A special 
feature of the town is a large Sunday school, in which from five 
to six thousand children receive instruction each Sabbath from 
teachers drawn from various denominations. A branch line from 
Stockport runs direct, through Warrington, to Liverpool. 

Leaving for Buxton, we pass through the stations of Daven- 
port, Hazel Grove, Disley, New Mills, and Furness Vale to 

Whaley Bridge, 

a small manufacturing village on the river Goyt, which here 
divides Cheshire and Derbyshire. Around each factory is 
clustered the neat dwellings of the operatives. Below, the coal 
strata yield their riches to the exertions of the miners ; and 
colliery gins and steam-engines diversify the prospect. Within 
half a mile of Whaley, to the south, is the Roos-dyche, "an arti- 
ficially formed valley, averaging in width forty paces, and 1,300 
paces in length. It is in a great measure cut out of the side of a 
hill, to a depth of from ten to thirty feet." It is said to be an 
ancient racecourse. 

Proceeding on the journey, obvious traces of the coal measures 
are seen on the bank side. On crossing the stream, and after 
running through some deep cuttings, the peculiar hill scenery of 
Derbyshire bursts on our view. The tourist will seldom see such 
glorious landscapes from the windows of the railway carriage as 
this line reveals. Bold hills and pleasant valleys are on either 
hand. 

Approaching Chapel-en-le-Frith, the tourist passes the large 
reservoir of the Peak Forest Canal, deriving its waters from 
Coombe's Moss. The hamlet of Tunstead, the birth place of the 
engineer Brindley, is near the line. At the opposite end of the 
reservoir, under Eccles Peak, is Bradshaw Hall, the seat of the 
Bradshaw family since the Conquest, but now a farmhouse. 
John Bradshaw was the presiding judge during the trial of 
Charles I. at Westminster. The following inscription appears 
in the interior, on one of the staircases : — 
" Love God and not gould." 

" He that loves not mercy 
Of mercy shall miss ; 
But he shall have mercy 
That merciful is." 

Passing over Coombe's Embankment, 
Chapel-en-le-Frith 

[Hotels : " King's Arms," " Royal Oak"] 
is reached ; it is a small town built upon the side of a hill, its 
inhabitants deriving their support chiefly from cotton and paper 



3So LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE, 

mills. Excellent views may be obtained from the summits of the 
surrounding hills, especially from Dympus, which commands the 
head of Edale and the escarpment of Kinderscout. Chinley 
Churn is 1493ft. high. A cairn is found on the top. Passing 
through two tunnels and skirting the Old Peak Forest tram 
road, we come to 

Dove Holes, 

a spot exceedingly rich in Druidical remains. Extensive lime 
works and some singular natural phenomena may be observed 
in this neighbourhood. The name of Dove Holes indicates a 
characteristic feature of the springs and streams of this district, 
which frequently disappear suddenly in the earth, run a subter- 
ranean course for a greater or less distance, and again appear on 
the surface. Such openings are called swallow-holes. At 
Barmoor Clough, one and a half miles distant, is an ebbing and 
flowing well, • or intermittent spring, which in wet weather ebbs 
and flows twice in an hour. It continues to flow for five minutes 
from nine small apertures, and in that time discharges about 120 
hogsheads of water. Leaving Dove Holes, a steep ascent and 
descent bring the traveller to 

Buxton 

[Hotels: "Palace," "George," "Crescent," " St. Ann's," "Old Hall/ 
" Shakespeare," " Royal," " Leewood," " Wood's," and " Railway"] 

(population 3,717), which is situated on the high moorland of 
the Peak, its lowest elevation being upwards of 1,000 feet 
above the level of the sea. It is, notwithstanding, sur- 
rounded by hills of still greater elevation, the principal 
of which is Axe Edge, 2,000 feet in height. The geolo- 
gical formation of this elevated plateau is limestone, which 
has a remarkable characteristic, exemplified in the fissures 
and caverns which abound all over the Peak. This and 
another more celebrated feature — its thermal springs — have 
been attributed to volcanic agency. These warm springs 
have evidently been known -and used medicinally from the 
earliest times. From the remains dug up at various times there 
can be little doubt that the Romans were well acquainted with 
them, and it would seem from recent discoveries that this bath- 
loving people utilized the wells to a considerable extent. There 
is also reason to suppose that the ancient Druids weie not 
ignorant of their hygienic properties. The Druidical remains 
in the vicinity are considerable, and Mr. Jewitt is of opinion 
that no fewer than seven ancient Roman roads diverged from 
Buxton. Mr. Pilkington, in his work, published 1 78 1, describes a 
Roman bath at Buxton. "When the foundations of the Crescent 



were dug, the shape and dimensions of this bath might be easily 
discerned. Its form was that of an oblong square : it measured 
thirty feet from east to west, and fifteen feet from north to south. 
The spring was at the west end of the bath ; and at the east end 
there had evidently been a flood-gate for letting out the water. 
The wall was built of limestone, and appeared to be of rude 
workmanship. On the outside it was covered with a strong 
cement, supposed to have been for the purpose of preventing 
cold water from mixing with the warm spring supplying the bath. 
. The floor was formed of plaster, and appeared to have been un- 
injured by time. On the top of the walls were laid strong oak 
beams, which were firmly connected together at the four corners ; 
and the bath had the appearance of having been exposed to the air." 

In early times the healing qualities of the waters of Buxton were 
attributed to the intercession of St. Anne, the patron saint of the 
well, and offerings were made at her shrine. At the time of the 
Reformation, when Henry VIII. suppressed the monasteries and 
other religious organizations of the Roman Catholics, St. Anne's 
Chapel did not escape, as the following extract from a letter 
addressed by Sir Wjlliam Bassett to Lord Cromwell shows : — 
" According to my bounden duty, and the tenor of your lord- 
ship's letters lately to me directed, I have sent your lordship by 
this bearer (my brother), Francis Bassett, the images of St. 
Anne of Buckston and Saint Andrew of Burton-upon-Trent ; 
which images I did take from the places where they did stand, 
and brought them to my house within forty-eight hours after the 
contemplation of your said lordship's letters, in as sober a man- 
ner as my little and rude will would serve me. And, for that 
there should be no more idolatry and superstition there used, I 
did not only deface the tabernacles and places where they did 
stand, but also did take away crutches, shirts, and shifts, with 
wax offered : being things that allure and entice the ignorant to 
the said offering ; also giving the keepers of both places orders 
that no more offerings should be made in those places till the 
king's pleasure, and your lordship's, should be further known in 
that behalf. My lord, I have locked up and sealed the baths and 
wells of Buckston, that none shall enter to wash there till your 
lordship's pleasure be further known," etc. But the reputation of 
the Buxton wells was sufficient to cause the seal to be soon broken, 
and the waters again frequented for their healing properties. 

Mary, Queen of Scots, visited Buxton at least four different 
times, while in the custody of the Earl of Shrewsbury. These 
visits must have occurred between the years 1570 and 1583 in- 
clusive. She resided with the Earl and Countess at the Old Hall, 
a part of which is now standing attached to the hotel of the same 
name. In a letter, dated Buxton, August loth, 1579, Queen Mary 



382 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

mentions the benefit which she had derived from the use of the 
baths, in relieving a severe pain in the side, most probably an 
ailment of a rheumatic character. The relief afforded to the 
captive queen appeared to have induced Lord Burleigh and the 
Duke of Sussex to resort to Buxton for the cure of their ailments. 

The influx of visitors to Buxton increasing as the fame of the 
waters and beauty of the neighbourhood became wider known, 
considerable improvements and attractions were made from time to 
time. The district originally was for the most part unenclosed and 
uncultivated, and though grand, was wild, dreary, and inhospitable 
in aspect. Many hundreds of acres have been planted with trees. 
A park of more than a hundred acres was laid out and planted 
for ornamental and building grounds from plans by Sir Joseph 
Paxton. Corbar Hill, a wooded upland, the site of old gritstone 
quarries, was intersected by picturesque walks. The town has 
been placed under the provisions of the " Act for the Local 
Government of Towns," and is now supplied with pure water 
from a gritstone spring, has gas-works, and efficient sewerage 
works. 

The Old Hall seems to have been the place where patients 
resided while taking the waters. It was "a goodly house, four 
square, four storeys high," erected probably about 1572. It was 
surrounded by a high wall, evidently strong enough to resist a 
common attack of robbers, or the like, the walls of the house 
near the ground being pierced by loopholes, which may have 
been used for the discharge of missiles. An observatory at the 
top gave timely warning of the approach of enemies. The ad- 
joining springs were thus described in a work on the Most Famous 
Parts of the World, dated 1646, "Things of strange note are the 
hot-water springs bursting forth out of the ground at Buxton, 
where, out of the rocke, within the compass of eight yards, nine 
springs arise, eight of them warm, but the ninth very cold." 

The older form of the Baths is thus described by a writer in 
1572, "The baths also, so bravely beautified with seats round 
about, defended from the ambient air, and chimneys, for fire, to 
air your garments, in the bath side, and other necessaries most 
decent. The ladies, maids and wives, may in one of the galleries 
walk, and if the weather be not agreeable to their expectation, 
they may have in the end of a bench hole* made into the which 
to trowl pummets or bowls of lead, big, little, or mean. Like- 
wise, men feeble the same in another gallery may practice." The 
present Natural Baths, or those supplied with the mineral waters 
at the temperature at which they flow from the spring, from 
8o° to 82 Fahrenheit, are situated at the western end of the 
Crescent. They consist of two public baths for gentlemen, the 
largest measuring 26 feet by 18, and one public bath for ladies, 



BUXTON. *S* 



each bath surrounded with the necessary dressing-closets, etc. 
There are also six private baths, three for gentlemen and three 
for ladies. All the baths are fitted with pump douches, which 
may be directed against any part of the body. The flow of water 
into these baths is at the rate of 129^ gallons per minute. The 
water enters through perforations in the flooring, and flowing out at 
the top ; there is thus a constant current of fresh water passing 
through. The depth of the baths is about 4! feet. The Hot 
Baths, in which the water is raised to a temperature ten or twelve 
degrees higher, are situated in an elegant glass and iron structure 
at the other or east end of the Crescent. Here, also, are two 
gentlemen's and one ladies' public baths, and two gentlemen's 
and three ladies' private baths. Natural baths and hot baths 
have also been built for the use of rheumatic and other patients 
of the local charity. At the south-west corner of the Crescent is 
the newly-erected St. Anne's Well, for the use of those who drink 
the waters. The tepid mineral waters of Buxton have established 
for themselves a reputation as curative agents in cases of rheuma- 
tism, gout, and neuralgic affections. The following is Dr. Lyon 
Playfair's analysis of one gallon of the water at 6o° : — ■ 

Silica . . . . . . . 0.666 

Oxide of iron and alumina .... 0.240 

Carbonate of lime ..... 7-773 

Sulphate of lime . 2.323 

Carbonate of magnesia „ 4. 543 

Chloride of sodium ..,.=, 2.420 

Chloride of potassium , . 2. 500 

Fluorine (as fluoride of calcium) . . Trace 

Phosphoric acid (phosphate of lime) . . . Trace 

The special feature of these waters, however, is the amount of 
free nitrogen held in solution, with a smaller quantity of carbonic 
acid gas and a trace of oxygen. The gases were found by Dr. 
Lyon Playfair, in these proportion : — 

Carbonic acid ..... 1.167 

Nitrogen ...... 98-833 

Oxygen ...... Trace. 

or by measurement, one gallon of water contains 206 cubic inches 
of nitrogen, and 15.66 cubic inches of carbonic acid. 

The Crescent — In the year 1780 were laid the foundations of 
the great pile of buildings called, from its form, the Crescent : 
the architect was Mr. Carr, of York. This noble pile was finished 
in 1 784 ; it is still the finest crescent-shaped elevation in England 
and, probably, in Europe. The curve is 200 feet, which, with the 
two wings of fifty-eight feet each, makes a full length of 316 feet. 
It has three storeys, the lowest of which forms a rusticated colon- 
nade, and the whole presents an appearance of which the Buxton- 



384 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

ians are justly proud. It was built by the Duke of Devonshire, 
the lord of the manor, at a cost of ^120, OCX). To erect this build- 
ing many alterations were necessary. The high road from Man- 
chester was turned and the river was enarched from the hall to 
some distance beyond the earlier end of the Crescent. The rocky 
bank facing the Crescent was improved by the taste and skill of 
Sir Jeffery Wyatville, and formed into ranges of terrace walks, 
with intervening grass banks, etc. 

Pavilion and Promenade. — In 1871 twelve acres of land were 
conveyed by the Duke of Devonshire free of cost to the Buxton 
Improvement Company, to be laid out and enclosed as pleasure 
grounds and plantation walks for the use of the public. A charge 
for admission was to be made to cover expenses and pay for a band 
of music during the season. A large pavilion of glass, iron, and 
wood has been erected; it has a central hall, corridors, and terminal 
conservatories, 120 yards in length, and of proportionate width 
and height, with a terrace promenade in front, of the same length. 
The whole faces the south, with grassy slopes and walks down to 
the river Wye ; the river is crossed by a handsome bridge, leading 
to a central orchestra. Thence another bridge and broad walks 
lead to ornamental waters, artistic rock works, an extensive 
croquet ground, gardens, lawns, etc. Large forcing pits furnish 
a succession of floral beauty to the grounds. The building can 
be warmed and lighted. An excellent band performs every 
morning and evening in the gardens or pavilion. 

The Devonshire Hospital, an institution longer known as the 
Buxton Bath Charity, is housed in a building presented by the 
Duke of Devonshire in 1859. It was instituted for the relief of 
poor persons from all parts of Great Britain and Ireland, suffer- 
ing from rheumatism, sciatica, and neuralgia, and many other 
complaints. 

(For a more minute description of Buxton, and other particu- 
lars, see Shaw's Shilling Guide to Buxton.) 

There is much to interest the stranger in this locality, besides 
the springs ; much to furnish food for contemplation for the 
geological student, antiquities for the archaeologist, and plea- 
sant excursions for the sightseer. The neighbourhood, which 
a century ago was bleak, uncultivated, and unwooded, now 
teems with delightful walks and drives. Of these we shall 
enumerate a few. 

Pool's Hole is about a mile from the town, and is so-called 
from an outlaw or a hermit (tradition assigns both callings, 
whether to the same individual or not does not clearly appear) 
who once dwelt there. Many curious remains of human bodies, 
coins, and a bronze brooch have been discovered in this cavern, 



3S6 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

the entrance to which is extremely contracted, but after a few 
yards it becomes more lofty, and leads to extensive chambers, 
through the bottom of which a narrow streamlet channels its 
way, and over which are roofings and arches of imposing 
extent, stalactites hanging from the roof in some places, and 
large crystalline masses having accumulated on the flooring 
of the chambers in others ; they are caused by the dropping and 
welling of the water charged with calcareous matter. The 
cave is lighted throughout with gas, so that its whole extent 
and curious characteristics may be fully appreciated. In the 
neighbourhood of this natural curiosity is the 

Diamond Hill, which deserves a visit, as well for the fine 
specimens of quartz crystals to be found there as for the view 
afforded from " Solomon's Temple," a tower crowning its 
summit. These two places may be visited, and the ascent of 
Axe Edge may be made on foot, with the no less interesting 
excursion to 

Chee Tor and Dale, through which runs the river Wye. Chee 
Tor is an abrupt, lofty, magnificent mass of rock abutting on the 
right bank of the river, and rising fully 300 feet high. It is as 
straight as if cleft by the hands of man. A counterpart rises on 
the opposite shore of the Wye. The Dale is a charming retreat. 

" Here eglantine embalm'd the air, 
Hawthorn and hazel mingled there ; 
The primrose pale and violet flower 
Found in each cliff a narrow bower. 

Aloft, the ash and warrior oak 
Cast anchor in the rifted rock ; 
And higher yet the pine tree hung 
His shattered trunk." 

Mam Tor, "The Shivering Mountain," enjoys the reputation 
of being one of the wonders of the Peak, on the ground that it 
constantly crumbles away but never becomes less. Some Roman 
entrenchments on the top of Mam Tor have slipped away, the 
gradual weathering of the mountain carrying the portions of the 
summit with the debris of the sides. The hill consists of shale 
and grit. From its top a magnificent view may be obtained. 
Immediately at the foot of Mam Tor lies the old village of 

Castleton, 

crowned on its southern side by the smaller but steep and com- 
manding eminence on which are the ruins of the castle of the 
Peverils of the Peak. Close to the village of Castleton, about 
ten miles from Buxton, is the great 

Peak Cavern. The entrance is a natural arch 42 feet high, 120 



CASTLE TON—E YAM. 387 

feet wide, and 300 feet deep. Beyond this hall, a narrow low 
passage, almost separated from the further interior by water, which 
is either crossed by an artificial footpath or by means of a boat, 
conducts the explorer into a spacious cavernous chamber, some 
parts of which are estimated to be 210 feet in width and 120 feet 
in height. It penetrates 2,250 feet into the mountain, and is 
some 600 feet below its summit. Prolonging the exploration, the 
visitor sees the Second Water, Roger Rain's House, the Chancel, 
the Devil's Cellar, Half- Way House, and the Victoria Dome. 

The Speedwell Mine is another of the wonders of Castleton. 
A descent of 106 steps down an arched vault leads to a level, 
where the visitor enters a boat. In the walls of the natural 
rock which bound this subterranean canal pegs of wood are 
driven at intervals, and by means of these the guide propels the 
boat. After proceeding to a length of 750 yards, the narrow 
passage suddenly opens upon an enormous gulf, of such dimen- 
sion that, with the lights which are carried, nothing can be seen 
of its bottom or roof, the canal being carried across it by an 
aqueduct at its narrowest part. Forty thousand tons of rubbish 
were thrown into this gulf when the works of the mine were in 
progress, without making a perceptible difference in its depth. 
Ninety feet below the level it is filled with water. The excava- 
tions are the works of an unfortunate lead mining company, who, 
having spent ^"14,000 and eleven years upon the undertaking, 
were obliged to discontinue operations. At the other end of the 
canal, the visitor is landed upon a shelf of rock and can obtain 
some views of the tremendous cavern. Rockets are sometimes 
discharged into the vast dome overhead and expend their force 
without striking the roof. 

The Elue John Mine is celebrated as furnishing the curiously 
beautiful spar called Fluor Spar, or Blue John. It is entered by 
steps which lead to a lofty cavern, known as Lord Mulgrave's 
Dining-room, 60 feet wide and 150 feet high. Vast spaces of 
the sides of this cavern are covered with sparry incrustations of 
great variety, reflecting most beautifully the lights of the candies 
and the corruscations of the crimson and blue fires with which 
the cavern is illuminated by the guides. 

About eleven miles from Buxton is the picturesque village of 

Eyam, 
where, a hundred years since, watch and ward was kept by the 
villagers, from nine at night till six in the morning. ' ■ The watch- 
man had a large wooden halbert, or ' watch-bill, ' for protection, 
and when he came off watch in the morning he took the watch- 
bill and reared it against the door of that person whose turn to 
watch succeeded him." Eyam was the scene of the heroic exploits 



388 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

of the rector Mompesson, his wife Catherine, and his flock, who, 
when the plague seized the village in 1666, in order to "stamp 
out " the disease, confined themselves within the limits of their 
own village, receiving provisions from the surrounding hamlets, the 
money for which was laid in troughs through which passed running 
water. Of the 350 inhabitants, 267 fell victims to the plague. 

Hathersage is held to have been the birth and burial-place of 
Little John, the loyal henchman of the celebrated Robin Hood. 
His grave is on the south side of the church. It is marked by 
two small stones, one at the head, the other at the foot. It was 
opened in 1782, and bones of enormous size found in it. There 
are some interesting rocking stones in the neighbourhood. 

All the foregoing attractions of Buxton are within an easy 
drive, and are best visited by road. More extended excursions 
should be made by the same mode of conveyance to Chats worth, 
Haddon Hall, and the district. 

Chatsworth House, 

or, as it is sometimes called, the Palace of the Peak, the seat of 
the Duke of Devonshire, is perhaps the most splendid mansion 
in England. The old hall was pulled down early in the sixteenth 
century. The building which succeeded held Mary Queen of 
Scots in the custody of fhe Earl of Shrewsbury. Hobbes, the 
philosopher, resided for some years in the same structure. A 
third building, erected in the beginning of the eighteenth cen- 
tury, on the site of the former structure, now forms a part of the 
present magnificent pile. The later additions were begun about 
fifty-six years ago, when the north wing, an increase of nearly 
400 feet to the length of the building, was built, after the 
designs of Sir Jeffery Wyatville. It was completed in 1840. 
The park in which Chatsworth House stands is eleven miles in 
circumference, and is remarkable for its natural scenery and the 
artificial additions made. The visitor is conducted through the 
lower hall and a corridor to the great hall, a noble apartment, 
gorgeous with the mural paintings of Verrio and Laguerre. The 
exploits of Caesar have given the artists subjects for these bright 
and glowing paintings. The other apartments which the visitor 
should not fail to see are the chapel, a long gallery hung with 
drawings and sketches, the state bed-room, drawing-room, and 
dining-room, and the sculpture gallery. Perhaps the most valu- 
able, certainly the most unique, art treasures of Chatsworth are 
hung in the upper south gallery. They consist of some thousands 
of original drawings, sketches, and outlines by the greatest 
masters of the French, Flemish, Venetian, Spanish, and Italian 



CHATSWORTH HOUSE. 389 

schools. Here are drawings in pen and ink, or reed and colour, 
or chalk or crayon, by Raffaelle, Rembrandt, Titian, Leonardo 
da Vinci, Claude, and a host of other celebrities, forming a col- 
lection of valuable varieties without parallel in this country. 
There are besides many pictures of historical value by the great 
Italian and Dutch masters, with some fine productions of Rey- 
nolds and other English painters of the last century, and a few of 
the masterpieces of Landseer, Collins, Eastlake, and others of the 
British school. Another characteristic feature of this home of 
art is the collection of wood carvings by the greatest masters, 
including Grinling Gibbons, Lobb, Davies, and Watson. The 
sculpture gallery is a noble apartment, above 1 00 feet in length, 
lofty and well lighted from the roof. The walls are of un- 
coloured sandstone, and form an admirable background for 
the magnificent productions of the most eminent of the Italian, 
German, and English sculptors. Thorwaldsen's statue of ''Venus 
with the Apple," Tenerani's " Cupid extracting a thorn from the 
foot of Venus," Schadow's "Tilatrice," Canova's " Endymion " 
and "Hebe," his colossal bust of the first Napoleon, a grand, 
bold, and massive conception, are among the art treasures accumu- 
lated here. Gibson's "Mars and Cupid," and works by Chantrey 
and Westmacott may also be seen in this gallery. Another great 
feature of Chatsworth House is the huge store of books which forms 
the library. In one apartment alone, the great library, nearly 100 
feet long, there are about 30,000 volumes, some of which are among 
the rarest in existence, in addition to an unrivalled collection of 
illuminated manuscripts and other curious and elaborate produc- 
tions of the monastic age. In the cabinet library are the whim- 
sical titles to sham books supplied by the elder Tom Hood. 
Among others are " Inigo on Secret Entrances," "Cursory 
Remarks on Swearing," " Lambe on the death of Wolfe," "Jack 
Ketch, with Cuts of his own Execution," "Barrow on the Com- 
mon Weal," etc. The orangery, the gardens, in which seventy 
men are kept constantly at work, and the gigantic system of 
waterworks are other features of interest. The famous cascade, 
consisting of a series of flights of steps, is to be seen on the 
slope of a hill. The water descends from a classic temple 
adorned with dolphins, naiads, sea-lions, and other marine 
monsters, through the mouths and urns of which, as well as from 
other concealed vomitories, the fountain streams forth, and, cover- 
ing the broad surface of the channel, dashes headlong down the 
steep, and disappears at the bottom among masses of rock, en route 
to the Derwent. A curiosity of waterworks, not far from the 
cascade, is an artificial tree, which, at a touch from an attendant, 
spouts forth from every branch and twig a shower of close rain 
upon any person who happens to be beneath it ; while jets, 



390 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

concealed in the surrounding herbage, concentrate by the same 
action their water upon the same victim. One of the numerous 
fountains hurls its water over 200 feet high ; other jets ascend 
to a height of 100 feet. Here, too, is the great conserva- 
tory erected by Sir Joseph Paxton. It covers more than an 
acre of ground, and is parallelogram in form. If laid end to end 
its sash bars would extend for forty miles ; and its glass covers 
an area of 70,000 square feet. It is filled with the rarest exotics. 
A carriage drive has been formed round the interior. 

Haddon Hall, 

the best preserved specimen of the ancient baronial halls of 
Old England, may also be visited. It is almost unique, as 
an untouched sample of the houses that were occupied by 
the aristocracy of England in olden times. It was built by 




Haddon Hall. 

the Vernons, in the commencement of the eleventh century, 
and now belongs to the Duke of Rutland. 

We extract the following admirable account of Haddon Hall 



II ADDON HALL. 391 

from The Land we Live in: — " Haddon Hall stands on an 
eminence which rises bluffly from the river, in the midst of broad 
level meadows. As its embattled turrets are seen from among 
the trees, which partly conceal the extent of the building, it 
wears a stern and warlike aspect ; but it appears more of a 
stronghold than it really is. The oldest part was erected in 
the fifteenth century, but the greater portion belongs to the six- 
teenth. The manor at the Domesday Survey belonged to the 
Avenels, from whom it passed by marriage to the Vernons and 
Bassets. In the reign of Henry VI. it had fallen wholly to the 
former. The last Vernon was the Sir George, the ' King of 
the Peak ; ' at his death it fell to his daughter Dorothy, wife 
of Sir John Manners, second son of the Earl of Rutland. 
You cross the Wye byl an old bridge, and then approach 
Haddon Hall by a long and rather steep slope. A lofty em- 
battled tower is before you, the large gateway of which is the 
grand entrance. On passing through this you find yourself in 
a tolerably spacious quadrangle, the buildings around which 
speak aloud of a time when state was maintained after a fashion 
very different from that of our own days. In the court-yard 
your attention is chiefly called to the chaplain's room. Its con- 
tents are, first, some pewter dishes and platters of capacious 
size. Then there are huge jack-boots, thick leathern doublets, 
and cumbrous match-locks, for which, unless literally of the 
church militant, the clerk would hardly seem a fitting keeper. 
But why the cradle should be placed here it is difficult to guess. 
The visitor will notice the fireplace and stone fender. From 
the chaplain's room you pass naturally to the chapel. It is a 
curious and noteworthy building erected before the middle of 
the fifteenth century, being, with the hall, the most ancient part 
of the edifice. It is rude and small, but most valuable as an 
example of the domestic chapel of that age. In the windows are 
some fragments of the original stained glass, bearing the date 
1427. The great hall was erected before 1452. It is a good-sized 
room, though hardly so large as some other existing halls. The 
roof is open : the walls to a good height are lined with pannelled 
oak wainscoting. Round two of its sides is carried a gallery of 
carved oak, but this appears to be somewhat less ancient than 
the room. At the end of the hall is a dais ; and there is a 
capacious fire-place with huge andirons. But a curious instru- 
ment in this hall speaks in coarser tones of the rudeness of 
ancient hospitality. It is a kind of iron handcuff, which is 
fastened against the screen ; when any guest refused to drink off 
a proper potation, he was punished by locking his hand in this 
frame, which is fixed at some height above the head, and the 
remainder of the draught was then poured down the arm. It 






3Q2 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

was also used for the punishment of some other small offences. 
From the great hall you pass to the dining-room, an apart- 
ment constructed when it had become the fashion for the lord 
to dine in private, except on some special occasions. It is pro- 
ably one of the oldest of these private dining-rooms ; it was 
erected about 1545. It must have been in its day a splendid 
room. The ceiling is divided into compartments by carved 
beams, which have been richly coloured and gilt. The walls 
are covered with pannelled oak, a fanciful carved cornice is 
carried round the room, and the fire-place is profusely carved. 
Among other figures the portrait of Henry VII. and his Queen 
must not be overlooked. Here, as in the other rooms, the 
boar's head, the crest of the Vernons, and the peacock, that 
of the Mannerses, are of perpetual recurrence. The drawing- 
room, and the bed-room connected with it, are particularly 
interesting. In the former is a noble bay-window. Both are 
hung with tapestry that will repay examination. The old 
furniture in these rooms should not pass unnoticed. The wide 
doors will also be observed, and it will be noted that they were 
all once covered by arras hangings, as some of them still are. 
From these rooms you pass to the long gallery, a room 109 
feet long by 18 wide and 15 high. The room appears of course 
both narrow and low, from being so long ; but the appearance is 
greatly improved and the inconvenience lessened by these vast 
bay windows, which occur at regular intervals on one side of it. 
This apartment was built in the reign of Elizabeth, and there is 
a tradition that the first ball given in it was opened in person by 
the Virgin Queen. In the withdrawing-room adjoining the ball- 
room are some noticeable features, and also a few pictures. 
The floor of this gallery is said to have been cut from a single 
oak which previously grew in the park. There are many other 
rooms which will be shown to the stranger, and all of which 
are more or less worth looking over. Some have arras hang- 
ings and old furniture. In one is a curious antique state-bed, 
brought here from Belvoir Castle ; the last person who slept 
in it, you are told, was George IV., when Prince Regent. 
One of the rooms bears the name of Dorothy Vernon, the 
daughter of the King of the Peak, ' the circumstances of whose 
loves,' it has been said, ' have thrown such a romantic interest 
over Haddon.' This lady, it will be remembered, perhaps — for 
the story has been told a hundred times and in as many ways- 
formed a secret attachment to Sir John Manners, and when her 
father refused to consent to their union, eloped with him. We 
aie sorry to tell the story in this bald style, because the lovely 
one and her adventures are evidently great favourites with the 
fair visitants to Haddon ; but as we cannot do justice to these 



HADDON HALL. 



393 



love stories, and do not like to spoil them, we prefer to run the 
least risk by using the fewest words possible. A little oratory is 
shown, to which the fair one used to retire in order to watch 
from the oriel the fond youth's coming, and the lattice is pointed 
out through which they used to exchange sighs and greetings. 
The spot, too, is shown whither they repaired for their stolen 
interviews, and the door by which on a festal evening the lady 
escaped 'Into the night and to the arms of love.' It was 
through the lady thus won, let us repeat as a climax, that the 
Haddon property (and a good deal more) passed to the Rutland 




Terraca Steps, Haddon Ha 



family. The slightest sketch of Haddon Hall would be justly con- 
demned that left the gardens unnoticed. These, though neglected, 
show the tall clipped hedges and the narrow alleys which the 
memory always associates with the ancient hall, but which are so 
seldom found existing. Here, however, they have been preserved, 
and now, happily, are little likely to be destroyed. The terrace, 
with its quaint balasters, is too well known from pictures to need 
more than mention here. The upper terrace (or, if the fair 
reader pleases, Dorothy Vernon's walk) has been seldom painted 
or praised, but to our thinking it is, with the delicious avenues 
of noble limes, far more charming. We had almost forgotten to 



394 LQXDON AND NORTJI-IVESTERN GUIDE. 

mention the view from the Eagle Tower, and from the turret at 
its angle. From the tower the eye ranges far and wide over a 
beautiful country, and then turns to gaze with fresh interest upon 
the roofs and courts of the ancient mansion. " 

Matlock Bath. 

[Hotels : " New Bath/' " Walker's," and " Devonshire."] 
Matlock (population 3 834) has tepid springs, but, being 
inferior to those cf Buxton, they do not attract visitors to the 
same extent as the picturesqueness of its situation, its posi- 
tion, sheltered by the natural walls of limestone cliffs, its 
natural caverns, and the grandeur of the Heights of Abraham 
— so called from their resemblance to the hills over Quebec — 
Musson Hill, and the other surroundings merit. The prospect 
from the heights is unique : in extent, it embraces five counties. 
Dr. Darwin, the author of Zoonomia and the Loves of 'the Plants -, 
was one of the many eminent authors and other celebrities 
whose names are associated with the district through which 
we are now journeying. We may also mention Samuel Richard- 
son, the father of English novelists, a native of Derby; Sir 
Richard Arkwright, the inventor of the " spinning jenny " and 
founder of the cotton manufacture of Great Britain; Izaak 
Walton, the Complete Angler ; his friend, Charles Cotton; and 
Thomas Moore, who here, in the retirement of Slopperton 
Cottage, wrote his Lalla Rookh and many other poems. 

The principal buildings which now constitute Matlock Bath, 
so called to distinguish it from the village of Matlock, some 
two miles distant, are those which have sprung up in connec- 
tion with the warm springs. The church, though of no great 
dimensions, deserves notice. It is of the same cruciform 
design as the old abbey churches and cathedrals, built in the 
Decorated Gothic style, and surmounted by a tower and hand- 
some crocketed spire of 129 feet. 

The caverns, of which there are six, and the petrifying wells, 
where the process of petrifaction may be inspected, deserve 
attention. The Rutland, or Old Nestor, is the most remark- 
able and largest known of the caverns. It was successively 
worked as a lead mine by Romans, Saxons, Danes, and Nor- 
mans. In the Roman gallery may be seen numerous traces 
of the Latin workmen's handicraft. The Cumberland Cavern 
ranks next in extent, and does not seem to have been much 
worked, being nearly untouched by the miner. The Devon- 
shire Cavern is small, in comparison with those already men- 
tioned, but of a distinct character, being flat-roofed, while the 
others are arched or dome-like. There is an exit from this at 



MATLOCK BATH— ALTON TOWERS. 395 

the higher part of the mountain. The New Speedwell Mine, 
however, will have more interest for the mineralogist than 
any of its fellows : the crystallization is very fine, the spar, 
and the cubic fluor spar being spread about in the utmost 
beauty and profusion. The stalactites in this mine are among 
its most interesting features, and the visitor will be charmed 
with their extreme beauty as he proceeds through its course, 
and will see the water slowly dropping through the rocks, in 
the same unceasing and monotonous manner as it has done 
for centuries. Besides these there are the Grand Fluor Spar 
Cavern and the High Tor Grotto, both of which exhibit some 
curious forms of crystallization. Our brief sketch would be 
incomplete without mentioning the delightful rambles to the 
" Romantic Rocks," or Dungeon Tors, and the " Lovers' 
Walks." 

Very beautiful ornaments of various descriptions are skil- 
fully executed in gypsum, spar, stalactites, etc., and can be 
had at the different museums, of which there are a great 
many, this manufacture being the principal trade of the 
locality. 

From Matlock Bath, the district, which includes Alton Towers 
and Dovedale, may be visited by road, a most pleasant drive, or, 
in the former case, by road to Ashbourne, and thence by rail, via 
Rocester, to Alton Towers ; the tourist, however, is advised to 
take the road. 

Alton Towers. 

[Inn: "White Hart."] 

The estate on which Alton Towers stand was one of the many in 
possession of Lord Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury, the " Scourge of 
France," who is represented in Shakespeare's Henry VI. as "lying 
at the feet of Joan of Arc." In the time of this John Talbot, the 
first earl, Alton, situated upon the southern spurs of the high 
land of Derbyshire, was bleak, rocky, heath-clad, almost unin- 
habited mountain land. The famous gardens, called by Mr. 
Loudon one of the most extraordinary scenes in Europe, was a 
bare, rocky glen, the home of the wild fauna of Britain. A 
succession of fourteen earls overlooked the natural capabilities 
of Alton ; and it was not till the last quarter of the eighteenth 
century, when Charles, fifteenth earl, succeeded to the title and 
estates, that Alton was under any other care than that of an 
agent who resided in a house called Alton Lodge, standing upon 
the site of the modern building now constituting Alton Towers. 
Alton Castle, a stronghold of the Vernon family, lays claim to 
greater antiquity. It was dismantled by order of Parliament 



396 LOXDON AXD NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

during the Civil War, and has since fallen into ruins. At present 
the remains of one tower, and little else, can be seen of this 
structure ; the remainder of the site is occupied by a remarkable 
group of buildings called the Monastery, designed and erected 
under the superintendence of the elder Pugin . They were never 
finished, owing to the death of Earl Bertram, and the estates 
passing, after a protracted and expensive law-suit, into the hands of 
the present Protestant possessors. The Monastery buildings form 
a highly picturesque element in the views about Alton Towers. 
Never was the newly-developed taste for the picturesque, fos- 
tered by the school of the lake poets, better exercised than when 
the Alton Lodge was selected by the heads of the house of Talbot 
as the site of a family seat. The additions and alterations were 
commenced in 1814 by Charles, the fifteenth earl of this historical 
house. He directed his attention chiefly to developing the 
natural beauties of the grounds, planting trees, forming gardens, 
terraces, etc. For the vast pile of buildings, consisting of towers 
and galleries but loosely connected together, forming so pic- 
turesque an assemblage in the distance, the lover of the beautiful 
in art is indebted to John and Bertram, sixteenth and seventeenth 
earls of Shrewsbury. Pugin was largely employed in the later 
structures of Alton Towers, and the stamp of his genius is seen in 
the noble proportions and exquisite details of much of the exterior 
and interior. Upon the death of the last-mentioned peer, the title 
and estate was the matter in dispute of a long and costly lawsuit. 
When, finally, the cause was settled in favour of the father of the 
present holder of the title, the costs were so excessive that it was 
necessary to send to the hammer the splendid collection of works 
of art, costly and recherche furniture, and articles of virtu of all 
descriptions, labouriously garnered by the previous earls. Not- 
withstanding, Alton Towers, uninhabited and deflowered, is an 
object of remarkable interest to the tourist. 

The visitor enters by a flight of steps, guarded by two Talbot 
dogs, holding gilt banners bearing the family motto, " Prcst d^ ac- 
complish through a noble gateway, into a square apartment, above 
which rises a lofty embattled tower. In this room, an ancient 
retainer of the family, a blind Welsh harper, in the days of Earl 
John, used to sit and play over the well-loved airs of his native 
land. A door, 20 feet high and magnificently painted with the 
escutcheon of the Talbot family in full size, opens into the 
armoury, a long narrow gallery, once filled with a splendid col- 
lection of arms and armour, gradually accumulated during the 
lapse of centuries, and lighted by stained-glass windows. Under 
the oak roof hang a series of flags, among which may be specially 
remarked the blue banner of the hereditary high steward of 
Ireland. At the end of the armoury is a pair of open screen 



ALTON TOWERS. 397 

work doors of large size, formed of spears and halberds, admit- 
ting to the once richly-furnished picture gallery, a noble apart- 
ment 150 feet long, having a fine oak roof. It is lighted from 
above. Beyond the picture gallery is the octagon room, a 
spacious apartment, designedly like the Chapter House of Wells 
Cathedral. The roof is supported by a cluster of columns in 
the centre, around which are seats. In the windows are por- 
traits of the bishops and archbishops of the Talbot family. Next 
succeeds the Talbot gallery, the work of Pugin, in which are the 
quarterings of the family, from the tkne of the Conquest. Open- 
ing to the north of the octagon room is the conservatory, in which 
is a collection of rare and beautiful plants, trees, and flowers. The 
other apartments worthy of notice are the state rooms, including the 
boudoir, an octagonal room, the bedroom, with a richly panelled 
roof, and containing a gilt and elaborately carved state bed 
18 feet high, and 9 feet wide. The white marble chimney-piece 
is exquisitely carved. The dining-room, the west and north 
library, in which latter is the poet's corner, from the window of 
which a most magnificent prospect may be obtained ; the music- 
room, the drawing-room, and the chapel, the latter one of the 
finest efforts of Pugin, are all worthy of notice. 

The grounds and gardens of Alton Towers are of a remarkable 
character, and contain many monuments to different members of 
the family. The grounds abound with conifers and other trees. 
Among the objects most worthy of remark are the Gothic 
Temple, in memory of Earl John, and containing his bust, with 
the inscription, " He made the desert smile;" an imitation of 
Stonehenge, some of the rocks being nine tons in weight ; a 
choragic temple, containing a bust of Earl Charles ; the grand 
conservatory, 300 feet long, designed by Mr. Abrahams, consist- 
ing of seven richly gilt domes and connecting corridors. The 
central dome is the palm house. There are some strange foun- 
tains in the grounds, one called the war fountain, from the 
numerous jets crossing each other like spears. Another, the cork- 
screw fountain, is a short pillar standing in a pool filled with 
water plants : it has deeply-grooved sides, in which the water 
flashes like bands of silver ; and the Chinese or Pagoda fountain, 
of which the name indicates the character. 

About four miles from Alton Towers, on the road to Ash- 
bourne, is Mayfield Cottage, near a village of the same name. It 
was in this pretty but humble cottage, described by Thomas 
Moore as "a poor place, little better than a barn," that the great 
poet lived with his wife "Bessie," and composed Lalla Rookh. 
It was the sweet chimes of Ashbourne floating upon the still air 
that suggested to the author of the Irish Melodies, the charming 
song, Those Evening Bells, 



Dovedale. 

The river Dove, a confluent of the Trent, rises among the up- 
lands of Axe Edge, and flows through and is the great charm 
of one of the most picturesque spots in England. It has been 
described as "a secluded valley or glen, through which flows a 
clear and rapid stream, with green banks and shelving slopes, 
hemmed in by bold and lofty hills, mantled with thick scrub and 
brushwood, through which protrude grey weather-beaten crags 
and walls of naked limestone rock." The Dove — and the vale 
through which it glides, quietly but swiftly, and anon rushes with 
turbulence and wrath, now contracting as the perpendicular sides 
close upon it, or widening as it passes by gently-swelling knolls 
and rising uplands — is famous in the memory of all who love 
sylvan beauty ; but its most noted place in the heart is in associa- 
tion with those apostles of the rod, Izaak Walton and his dear 
friend, Charles Cotton. The latter says of it, — 

" O my beloved nymph, fair Dove, 
Princess of rivers, how I love 
Upon thy flowery banks to lie, 
And view thy silver stream." 

And again he refers to it in the following lines : — 

" The rapid Garonne, and the winding Seine, 

Are both too mean, 

Beloved Dove, with thee 

To vie priority ; 
Nay, Tame and Isis, when conjoined, submit, 
And lay their trophies at thy silver feet." 

Among the more famous spots in Dovedale is a remarkable 
group of rocks, called the Tissington Spires. Another group 
simulates the character of an ecclesiastical edifice, and is called 
Dovedale Church, opposite to which is a singular arch and cavern, 
known as Reynard's Cave, where Cotton would resort when hard 
dunned by his creditors. Next in interest are the "straits" of 
Dovedale, where the perpendicular cliffs narrow the current, 
leaving but an uncertain foothold to the tourist. Pickering Tor 
and other spots of great beauty claim more than a passing notice. 

Resuming our notice of Matlock Bath, from whence we pre- 
sume the traveller to have visited Alton Towers and Dovedale, 
a visit may be made to Willersley Castle, the seat of the Ark- 
wright family. It stands in remarkably picturesque grounds. 
Close to is Cromford, where Sir Richard Arkwright erected the 
first cotton factory mills, which still employ numerous hands. 
In Cromford church is a statue, by Chantrey, to the memory of 
Mrs. Arkwright and her children. More to the west is Lea 
Hurst, the home of Florence Nightingale, of Crimean memory. 



SECTION XXXVII. 

MANCHESTER (Victoria) TO LEEDS, HARROGATE, YORK, 
AND SCARBOROUGH. 

IN passing from Manchester to Leeds the tourist will find 
plenty to occupy his attention. The scenery of the locality 
is mountainous and picturesque. In the distance lofty moun- 
tain ranges are presented to view, while in the foreground 
specimens of fine landscape and beauteous valley scenery 
compose the picture. Rivers and streams gracefully meander 
through the country, while laborious specimens of industry in 
the shape of various kinds of mills stud the valleys. Owing 
to the mountainous character of these parts, the tourist will 
one moment find himself in the total darkness of a tunnel, 
and, before his eyes become accustomed to the sudden 
change, be restored to the light of day. The direct route 
between these important cities is by the London and North- 
Western Railway, which runs in as straight a line as it 
is possible to join them. The travelling is decidedly good, 
about two hundred trains a day passing over along the line. 

Leaving Manchester, we pass Miles Platting, Park, Clayton 
Bridge, and Droylsden, arriving at the important station, 

Ashton-under-Lyne 

[Hotels : i( Park," " Market," and " Railway "], 
a busy cotton manufacturing town of 37,389 inhabitants, and 
situated on the river Tame. Here are nearly one hundred cotton 
mills, occupying a formerly bare and worthless tract of land 
belonging to the Earl of Stamford. The older portions of the 
town, Charleston and Boston, date from the American war ; 
while the parish church was built in the reign of Henry VI. 
Ashton is the New Jerusalem of the followers of Johanna South - 
cott, who have a handsome chapel here. There is a small model 
barracks in the town. 

Staleybridge, 
the next station, is a town containing nearly 21,092 inhabitants; 
it is partly in Lancashire and partly in Cheshire, an old bridge 
connecting the two parts of the town. 

Passing Mossley, near which is Bucton Castle, an old British 
camp, we arrive at Greenfield, from whence a short branch 
takes the traveller to 



Oldham 

[Hotels: "Angel" and "Black Swan"], 
a large and industriously occupied town of 113,100 inhabitants. 
The staple products are cotton, fustians, corduroy, hats, and coal. 
Resuming the journey, 

Saddleworth 

[Hotels : " Commercial " and " King's Head "] 
is the next station. It has a population of 19,923 inhabitants, 
occupied chiefly in the manufacture of shawls. The town, at 
the foot of the rock, called Pots and Pans, is a little island of stone 
houses, in the hollow of some hills, which rise in an amphitheatre 
around it ; it consists of two straggling streets of shops and cot- 
tages, the ground so abrupt and irregular that the back door of 
one house will be often on a level with the top story of another. 
The high road, railway, canal, and river all run side by side 
within a few hundred yards of each other, in a deep valley sur- 
rounded by a labyrinth of hills. Passing Diggle, 

Standedge Tunnel 

is reached. This is a magnificent undertaking, piercing the hills 
which divide the counties of York and Lancaster. It is the 
longest tunnel on the line of the North- Western Company, 
being cut for a distance of 5,323 yards through solid shale 
and rock. It is a fine work of engineering skill, and is 
well worth a visit. It is so excellently constructed that, 
although upwards of three miles in length, and in parts of 
no less a depth than 650 feet below the surface of the rock, 
it is so straight that you can see from one end to the other. 
We should mention that it is named from a mountain, 
from whence flow, into Yorkshire on the one side, and into 
Lancashire on the other, the streams by which the nume- 
rous mills in the valleys are worked. Besides this tunnel, 
which really consists of two — one for the working of the up, 
and the other of the downdine traffic — there is a third, through 
which the Huddersfield Canal flow.-. The barges are worked 
through their subterranean passage by men called " leggers," 
whose office it is, lying on their backs and pressing their 
feet against the walls, to propel the heavy floating masses and 
their burdens from one end to the other. Emerging from the 
tunnel, Marsden station is reached. The townspeople are chiefly 
engaged in the woollen manufactures. At Slaithwaite, the next 
station, there are excellent mineral springs. Passing Golcar and 
Longwood, we enter Huddersfield tunnel, 1,067 yards long, and 
reach the town of 



HUDDERSFIELD, E'IC.—MORLEY. 401 

Huddersfield 

[Hotels: "Queen's," "George," and "Imperial"], 

an important manufacturing town of nearly 75, coo inhabitants. 
Woollens, fancy valentias, and shawls are the principal industries. 
The town sends one member to Parliament. The Ramsden 
canal runs to the river Calder, and another connects the town 
with Staleybridge, running through a tunnel three miles and a 
half long, and 656 feet above the level of the sea at its highest 
point. Within a few miles is Kirklees Hall, on the site of the 
nunnery where, according to old ballads, Robin Hood was bled 
to death by a nun. Here may be seen his grave, with the in- 
scription of his death and burial. The churches and other public 
buildings of Huddersfield are well designed and ornamental ; 
they are built for the most part of stone. The water supply is 
drawn from Longwood, three miles distant. The next stations 
are Bradley and Mirfield, after which the tourist arrives at 

Dewsbury 

[Hotels: "Buck," "Royal," "Wellington," and "Man and Saddle "J, 
a corporate town of 45,293 inhabitants, engaged in the manu- 
facture of blankets, carpets, broadcloth, and cotton goods. In 
All Saints' Church, there is a cross to the memory of Paulinus 
the first bishop of York, who flourished in the seventh century. 
The cross bears the inscription, " Hie Paulinus predicavit eele- 
bravit, a.d. 627." It fell down in 1805, and was replaced by a 
facsimile. 

Batley 

[Hotel : " Station "], 
the next station, is a borough town, incorporated in 1868. It is 
noted for its extensive woollen and carpet manufactories ; and its 
fine church (in the Later English style) contains some extremely 
interesting monuments. Its population in 1871 was 35,616. 
Batley is the junction for 

Birstall 

[Hotels : " Black Bull " and " Railway "], 
whose population, numbering 54,505, are principally engaged 
in the woollen and mining industries. The ruins of Old Howley 
Hall, in the neighbourhood, should not be passed unnoticed. 
Next to Batley, we reach 

Morley 

[Hotels: "Royal" and "Prospect"], 
inhabited by seme nine or ten thousand souls, chiefly weavers. 



4 02 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

Here is another relic of the great Civil War, in the shape of the 
ruins of St. Mary's Chapel, made use of by the Presbyterians 
during that troublous period. 

Traversing the Money tunnel (3,370 yards long), and passing 
Churwell (in whose neighbourhood are Middletor^ Lodge and 
the coal mines at Eeeton, used at the time of the Restoration) 
and Wortley, we reach 

* Leeds. 

[Hotels : ''Queen's," "Albion," "Griffin," "West Riding," "Victoria," 
and " Bull and Mouth. "J 

The river Aire flows by the town, which is surrounded by 
charming scenery. Its origin is wrapped in obscurity, but the 
Venerable Bede, who wrote above a thousand years ago, 
makes frequent mention of it ; so that it must have been a 
place of some importance even then. 

Leeds is the chief seat of the woollen manufacture of 
England; and, as it possesses advantageous railway communi- 
cation with every important town in the kingdom, it is both 
prosperous and populous, and is yearly increasing in extent. 
The last census returns give the number of its inhabitants as 
259,212. It returns three members to Parliament. The 
parish contains about six or seven square miles, and, with the 
eighteen or twenty townships by which it is surrounded, was 
formerly a moorland tract, of little or no value. The district 
owes its present prosperity to the discovery of coal and iron 
beneath its surface, which has given a wonderful impetus 
to its manufactures. The town now contains many public 
buildings, among which are some of the most handsome in 
the three kingdoms, and all the accessories of a flourishing 
town. There are various iron foundries, machine works, 
chemical works, and soap factories. A large leather market, 
too, is held there. But the production of woollen goods has 
been its chief business for centuries, as appears by a passage 
in Lord Clarendon's History of the Great Rebellion. Speaking 
of Leeds, Bradford, and Halifax, he calls them " three very 
populous and rich towns, depending wholly upon clothiers." 
All kinds of cloth are manufactured, from the coarsest to 
the most superfine. Every improvement that science and 
experience could suggest has been eagerly adopted by the 
manufacturers and no expense lias been spared in the desire 
to attain perfection. The satisfactory result of this is that 
first-class Yorkshire cloths are now equal to those of the 
West of England, which so long carried off the palm of 
superiority in the markets of the world. 

The appearance of Leeds has of late years been greatly 



improved by the erection of handsome structures en the site 
of old and dilapidated buildings ; the town is yearly being 
beautified under this process of reconstruction. Still the cloth- 
halls themselves, as might have been expected from the dates 
of their erection, are exceedingly plain in their appearance. 
The Mixed Cloth Hall was built in 1758. It is of brick, quadran- 
gular, 382 feet long by 198 feet in width, enclosing an open 
area. The White Cloth Hall was built in 1775, and is on the 
same plan and of nearly the same extent as the other. The 
markets are held on Tuesdays and Saturdays, in the forenoon, 
and last about an hour. On the site of the old castle is a stone 
edifice, of Grecian architecture, called Commercial Buildings. 
It contains a news-room, seventy feet long!; the other portions 
are devoted to business purposes as offices. The castle, all 
traces of which have long since disappeared, was famous for 
the incarceration of Richard II., before his murder at Ponte- 
fract. Among others buildings worthy of notice may be men- 
tioned the Slock Exchange, the County Court, the Leeds 
and Yorkshire Insurance Company's offices, and the offices of 
the Leeds Mercury — all of which are in Albion Street. Among the 
chief ornaments of the town are the New Town Hall, in Park 
Lane, and the New Corn Exchange : the former cost upwards 
of ,£130,000. It is a lofty rectangular pile, surrounded by 
Corinthian columns and pilasters, supporting an entablature 
and attic, and rising altogether to a height of about sixty-five 
feet. The tower is 225 feet in height, exclusive of the vane. The 
principal facade has a deeply-recessed portico of ten columns, 
and is approached by a flight of twenty steps, 135 feet in 
length, with pedestals at each end, on which are four couchant 
lions. The main entrance is to the south, with a large open 
space in front, in which is placed a bronze statue of the Duke 
of Wellington. At either side of the vestibule, which is 
beautifully paved with encaustic tiles, stand marble statues 
of the Queen and the late Prince Consort. Passing through 
the vestibule, the Victoria Hall is in front. This is truly mag- 
nificent, and when lighted with gas and filled with people 
presents a sight seldom equalled^ whether viewed in relation 
to its size, the harmony of its proportions, or the extreme 
beauty of its decorations. Its dimensions are 162ft. by 72ft. 
The Old Corn Exchange, at the top of Briggate, was built 
between 1826 and 1828, at a cost of ^12,500. It is of stone, 
and forms a conspicuous object, principally from its situation. 
The lower story is rusticated, and above rise two Ionic 
columns supporting an entablature and pediment, between 
which is placed a marble statue of Queen Anne, and above 
it the clock. Like other public buildings in Leeds, it soon 



4 o 4 LONDON AXD NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

became loo small, and the first stcne cf the New Corn 
Exchange, which is situate in Call Lane, a short distance from 
Briggate, was laid in 1861. It was opened in 1863. It is a 
dressed store erection, in the form cf a Roman amphitheatre, 
with an area of 2.055 yards, length igo feet, width 136 feet, 
eighty- six feet high from the basement floor, and lighted from 
the top, with entrances to the south-east and south-west. The 
ground floor forms the exchange, and during business hours 
presents a scene of bustle and great animation. On the 
second floor there are a large number of offices ranged round 
It, and reached by a galleiy. The cellars are used as wine 
and spirit vaults. The Stock Exchange, Albion Street, was 
erected in 1847, D Y lne Share-brokers Association, for their 
own accommodation, at the cost of ,£"12,000. The Leeds 
Royal Exchange is one of the most handsome buildings in 
the town c Its foundation stone was laid in Septtmber, 1872, 
by Prince Arthur (Duke of Connaught), and the building was 
opened with much pomp and ciicumstance in the following 
autumn, having occupied a year in building. 

Besides the wocllen trade, of which it is now the principal 
manufacturing place in the kingdom, Leeds also does a great 
real in leather and iron manufactures. The annual value of 
the manufactured woollen goods varies from ;£6,ooo.ooo to 
^7,000,000, while the extent of the leather trade may be esti- 
mated by the fact that 2,750.000 hides are tanned eveiy year. 
In the manufacture of flax Leeds ranks next to Belfast, one 
establishment alone employing 2,500 hands, and spinning 
ic,oco,cco yards cf linen daily. The iron trade affords em- 
ployment to about 60,000 people. (For further information, 
and for excursions, see Shaw's Shilling Guide to Leeds.) 

At a short distarce, and all accessible by rail or omnibus, 
are the villages of Kirkstali, with its venerable and picturesque 
abbey; Headingley, with its ancient oak; Adel, with its Nor- 
man church, erected about 1140; Meanwood and Wee t wood, 
with their watermills and characteristic scenery, which would 
have gratified the taste of Hobbema, Ruysdael, or Patrick 
Nasmyth ; Gledhow, immortalized by the pencil of Turner; 
Gypton ; Roundhay, with its noble park, lakes, and cascade ; 
Seacroft, memorable in historic record as the place where a 
battle was fought ; Whitkirk, the birthplace of the builder of 
the Eddystone Lighthouse; Temple Newsam, renowned as a 
preceptory of Knights Templars, established in 1181; Os- 
mondthorpe, once a royal residence; Oulton, the birthplace 
of the learned Dr. Bentley, with its elegant Gothic church; 
Methley, with its beautiful sylvan scenery; Esholt Springs, 
A r ith its fine avenue of trees, etc. 



HARROGA TE— KNARESBOROUGH— YORK. 405 



Leaving Leeds there is nothing calling for special notice ill 
the train arrives at 

Harrogate 

[Hotels : "White Hart," "Crown," " Adelphi," "George," and "Pros- 
pect," in Low Harrogate; "Queen's," "Granby," "Prince of Wales," and 
" Royal," in High Harrogate], 

about the largest of the English inland watering-places. The 
spa is visited during the season by a concourse of visitors 
varying in numbers from 10,000 to 10,500, while the standing 
population is 6,843. There is an abundance of hotel 
accommodation and of amusements, and some interesting 
excursions may be made — in particular, to Bolton Abbey, 
where Mary, Queen of Scots, was immured for the two years 
previous to her execution, while Elizabeth was vacillating 
between her desire to rid herself of a rival and her fear of in- 
curring public odium* Other places of note are Ripley Castle, 
Ripon Cathedral, Studley Royal, with the exquisite grounds 
of Earl de Grey's country mansion, and Tadcaster (the 
Roman Calcaria), with its " magnifice structum, sine flum'uie 
pontem." The neighbourhood of 

Knaresborough, 

our next station, is associated with the unhappy fate of Richard 
II., who was confined in the castle, now in ruins, with the 
murderers of Thomas a Becket, and the less noted murderer, 
Eugene Aram. The former took refuge in Knaresborough 
Church, and the scene of Eugene Aram's crime is pointed out 
in St. Robert's Cave near the river. This place is also cele- 
brated for its Dropping Well, the waters of which have 
petrifying properties. (Population 5,208.) 

Passing Ribston Hall, formerly belonging to the Knights 
Templars, and celebrated as the place where the Ribston 
pippin apples were first cultivated, we reach Goldsborough, 
in the vicinity of which is the fine old Elizabethan mansion of 
Goldsborough Hall, and pass Allerton, Cattal, and Hammer- 
ton. The line next carries us to Maston, the scene of the 
famous ba'-tle in which Prince Rupert was defeated bv Crom- 
well and Fairfax, and a death-blow inflicted on the Royalist 
hopes. The journey is continued through the stations of 
Hessay and Poppleton to 

York 

[Hotels : "Midland," "Adelphi," "York," and "George."] 
This city, if we are to believe Geoffrey of Monmouth, was 
founded by Eboracus, the great grandson of iEneas. There 



4 o6 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

is no doubt, however, that it was a place of importance even 
before the invasion of the Romans, who, shortly after their 
subjugation of the natives, made it their head-quarters, and 
originated so many alterations and improvements that they 
may be regarded as the real founders. By these pioneers of 
r rogress, it was called Efroracum, but the modern name seems 
to have originated in the Saxon title, Eurewic or Yarewic ,- 
i.e. the " Town on the Eure," a name by which the river is 
still known, until it is joined by the Ouse, twelve miles from 
York. It was an imperial city from a.d. 70 to 427, and the 
head-quarters of the Legio Sexta Victrix. Indeed, York played 
a prominent part in the later Roman history. Here died the 
Emperors Severus and Constantius, and here were crowned 
the fratricide Caracalla and Constantine the Great. It is a 
question whether the latter was not a native of the place. On 
the withdrawal of the Romans in the commencement of the 
fifth century, the Saxons, under Hengist, established them- 
selves in York, which subsequently figured conspicuously 
in the intestine wars, so rife during the Saxon period, and 
made a most determined stand against the Normans, after 
Harold's death, at Hastings, in 1066. William the Conqueror 
razed the city to the ground and devastated the whole country 
for miles round. York rose again, and, notwithstanding that 
it suffered a terrible conflagration in the reign of Stephen, 
when the cathedral and forty other churches were reduced to 
ashes, gradually regained its importance, until once more, in 
1460, it began to assume a foremost place in the kingdom, 
on the breaking out of the Wars of the Roses. In this year 
Richard, Duke of York, was defeated by Margaret of Anjou's 
forces, and the Amazon queen had his head crowned with a 
fool's cap and placed on the city gates. Four years afterwards 
his son Edward was crowned in the minster. 

Within the last two centuries the place has retrograded, and 
is now remarkable only for its architectural and antiquarian 
remains ; for York has not deigned to enter the lists of com- 
merce with the other great English marts. The present popu- 
lation is 50,765. 

The Minster is the foremost of the public buildings in York. 
We read of a Bishop of Eboracum as early as the year 314, 
but, on the evacuation of the island by the Romans, Chris- 
tianity was stamped out by the Saxon invaders, and did not 
again find its way to York until the advent of Paulinus, who 
converted Edwin, King of the Northumbrians, and many of 
his nobrlity, in 627. This monarch began to build a hand- 
some church on the site of the Roman temple to Bellona, the 
Goddess of War: this was completed in the second succeed- 



ing reign. The edifice has been destroyed and rebuilt no less 
than four times. Archbishop De Grey began the construction of 
the present building in 1246 ; but he lived only to complete the 
south transept, in which he lies buried. The north transept 
was finished in 1260, and the entire structure some time at the 
end of the fifteenth century. Throughout this period of 250 
years, the greatest care was taken that the different parts and 
styles of architecture should blend together into an harmonious 
whole. The west front presents the most striking appearance 
of any part of the building. It is flanked by two lofty towers, 
196 feet in height, each with eight crocketed pinnacles. Be- 
tween these is a very rich window, surmounting the great 
recessed doorway, in the arch over which is represented, in 
admirable tracery, the Temptation, and Expulsion of Adam 
and Eve from Paradise, all in the Decorated English style, 
while the highest part of this noble facade gradually assumes 
the Later Perpendicular style. The south side of the nave 
harmonizes with this front, but is not so profusely ornamented. 
The transept is of an earlier date, and in the Pointed style. 
The south entrance is of more chaste design than the front 
already noticed, and the decorations, though not so elaborate, 
are numerous and varied. Notice especially the circular, or 
marigold, light surmounting the pointed windows beneath. 
The east front dates from the reign of Edward III., and is 
a superb specimen of the architecture of the fourteenth cen- 
tury. The great window was considered by Pugin to be " the 
finest window in the world." It is certainly superb, occupying 
the entire space between the buttresses, which are adorned 
with elegant niches, canopies, and pedestals. The north side 
is somewhat plainer than the south, but the elegant propor- . 
tions of the chapter-house, and the impressive outline of the 
grand central tower, present, on the whole, a magnificent 
coup (Tail. It is also celebrated for its five long lancet win- 
dows, known as the Five Sisters. The extreme length of 
York Minister from east to west is 524 feet, while the length 
of the transepts from north to south is 241 feet, and the breadth 
of the east and west fronts are respectively 105 and 109 feet. 
The interior of this noble pile is, if possible, more striking, 
and, though most richly embellished throughout, contains no 
redundancies. All the windows are filled with stained glass 
of admirable execution, while most of them are adorned 
besides with exquisite tracery. The arches of the nave, the 
capitals of the columns, and the knots in the grand ceiling 
are superior to anything extant in the Perpendicular style. 
Then the variety afforded by the Pointed style of the principal 
transept, and the grand central tower, supported by four piers, 



of clustered columns and niched arches, and illuminated by- 
eight windows shedding "a dim religious light" — all go to 
make up a tout ensemble which must deeply, impress the visitor. 
The sculpture on the decorated organ screen and the tombs 
will next attract notice. The screen contains fifteen niches, 
filled with statues of the English kings, from William the 
Conqueror to Henry VI. Above are three rows of smaller 
figures, representing angels, and in the centre is the canopied 
entrance to the choir, with elaborate iron gates. The list of 
the tombs and monuments would fill a chapter. The tomb 
of Archbishop de Grey, the founder, is one of the finest, and 
that of Mrs. Mathew, in a niche under the east window, the 
most curious. This lady was the daughter of the Bishop of 
Chichester, was married successively to the Archbishops of 
York and Canterbury, and had four sisters, each of whom was 
married to a bishop. In the chapter-house, in an octagonal 
Gothic structure of fine proportions, with beautifully vaulted 
roof, is preserved the Horn of Ulphus and other relics. Near 
the entrance is inscribed the following Latin couplet, which, 
we must allow, is not vain boasting : — ■ 

" Ut rosa phlos *phlorum 
Sic est domus ista domorum." 

The Minster Library, open on Saturdays to the public, con- 
tains valuable MSS. of the eleventh, twelfth, and thirteenth 
centuries, together with some works printed by Caxton's press 
and other curious volumes, to the number of 8,ooo. The ivy- 
mantled ruins of St. Mary's Abbay, originally founded in 1088 
by William Rufus, are situated near the Yorkshire Museum, 
which has the Roman Multangular Tower on the opposite 
side. They consist of portions of the church (one side of 
which exhibits eight light Gothic windows), a small court 
with some broken columns, and the Norman archway in Mary- 
gate, which formed the ancient entrance to the Abbey Close. 

The Roman Multangular Tower seems to have been one 
of the towers on the line of walls with which the Romans 
environed the city. The diameter of the interior of the tower 
at the base or floor is about thirty-three feet six inches; and 
the plan consists of ten close sides of a nearly regular thir- 
teen-sided figure ; the whole of the ten sides being retained 
internally and externally by the rampart walls, which are 
curved about four feet seven inches from the exact line. The 
interior has been divided into two equal portions by a 
wall two feet eleven inches in thickness. At the height of 
about five feet, there seems to have been originally a timber 

* i.e. ph, pro f. 



YORK. 409 

floor; and another about nine feet five inches above. The 
lowest rooms of the tower appear to have had a mortar floor 
laid upon sand, and no aperture but the entrance to each. At 
present in the second floor, which was divided into two 
apartments, there are only fragments of two apertures, and 
these seem to have been merely for the purpose of surveying 
the general line of the rampart wall on each side. 

The Museum is a fine Doric structure, 200 feet in length, 
with a central portico of four columns supporting an unembel- 
lished pediment. It contains a good natural history collection, 
some interesting fossils, and a series of curious tapestry m^s 
of the counties, woven during the reign of Elizabeth. 

The Manor House, situated at the back of the Museum 
gardens and buildings, was built in the reign of Henry VIII., 
and was the residence of "Bluff King Hal" for some time 
during 1541. The building is now used as a school for the blind. 

The ruins of St. Leonard's Hospital, founded by King 
Athelstane in the year 936, stand behind the Multangular 
Tower. The cloisters form the principal part of these ruins. 

The Castle is situated toward the south of the city. From 
the many alterations made during the present century, it 
presents little of the appearance of an ancient castle, and 
Clifford's Tower is the only portion of the original structure 
now existing. The castle stands within the walls, on a mound 
formerly occupied by a Roman fortification, and dates from 
the reign of the Conqueror. Its walls enclose an area of 
four acres, and include the courts of law and the county gaol. 

After leaving the castle the tourist may cross the ferry and 
examine The Walls and The Bars, or gates. These, to a great 
extent, efther occupy the same lines, or lie parallel to the 
ancient Roman walls. Indeed the Micklegate Bar was 
supposed by Drake to be of Roman origin, though we cannot 
refer the remainder of the walls farther back than the reign 
of Edward I. Leland, an accurate writer of the reign of 
Henry VIII., gives the following description, which, allowing 
for some unimportant alterations, is still true : — " The city of 
York is divided by the River Ouse ; but that part which is on 
the east side is twice as large as that on the west. The great 
tower at Lendal had a chain of iron to cast over the river, 
then another tower, and so on to Bootham Bar ; from thence 
to Monk Bar ten towers, and to Layerthorpe Postern [since 
removed] four towers. For some distance the deep waters of 
the foss defended this part of the city without the walls ; and 
from thence to Walmgate Bar three towers ; then Fishergate 
Bar, walled up in the time of Henry VII. [now thrown open], 
and three towers, the last a postern ; from which by a bridge 



4lo LOXDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

over the foss, to the castle, and the ruins of five towers, were 
all that remained of it. On the west side of the river was put 
a tower, from which the wall passed over the dungeon to the 
Castle, or old Bailey, with nine towers to Micklegate Bar ; 
and between it and North Street Postern ten towers : the 
postern was opposite to the tower at Lendal, to draw the 
chain over the river between them." 

Among the public buildings not already noticed we may 
mention the Guildhall, a fine old Gothic pile dating from 1446, 
with panelled roof and a handsome front towards the river. 
Behind this is the Mansion House, which contains some good 
portraits ; and to the left is the Post Office, an unpretending 
building. The Corn Exchange, built in 1858, and the Assembly- 
rooms are worth visiting. The latter building contains a fine 
hall, in the Egyptian style, designed by Lord Burlington. Near 
by is the Concert-room for the triennial musical festival, with a 
frieze by Rossi. These, with the Merchants' Hall, in Fossgate, 
and Merchant Taylors' Hall, now used for a national school 
building, both belonging to the ancient guilds of the city, form 
the principal features of the town. There are, however, a 
large number of churches and chapels, many of which would 
claim notice, if space permitted. 

Taking the train again at York for Scarborough, we pass 
through Haxby and Strensall stations to Flaxton, near which 
are the towers of an old castle in which Richard III. confined 
Henry VII. 's wife, Elizabeth of York. After Barton Hill and 
Kirkham, we arrive at Castle Howard station, close to which 
is Castle Howard, Lord Carlisle's seat, by Vanbrugh. Passing 
a few more stations on the line we at length reach 

Scarborough. 

[Hotels: "Grand Hotel," "Crown," "Queen's," "Royal," "George," and 
" Blanchard's."] 

The IC Queen of English Watering-places" has a resident 
population of 24,259, and is situated in the recess of a lovely 
bay, with a coast extending to Flamborough Head. It com- 
mands an almost boundless sea-view, and has a delightful 
shore of smooth and firm sand, sloping gradually down to the 
sea, with rocks and deeply-indented bays. The town gradually 
rises 200 feet from the very water's edge, in successive tiers 
of well-drained streets, in the form of an amphitheatre. The 
venerable walls of the castle adorn the summit of a lofty pro- 
montory, forming its eastern apex ; while the splendid iron 
bridges, respectively 414 feet and 800 feet in length, with sus- 
pensions of seventy and eighty feet, the numerous fishing and 
pleasure boats and steamers, and the sands, crowded with 



company, riding, driving, walking, or bathing, create a scene 
which must be witnessed to be appreciated. No less pic- 
turesque is the background of this brightly coloured picture, 
which presents a beautifully-diversified country of hill and 
dale and sylvan scenery. From Oliver's Mount, which rises 
600 feet above the level of the sea, may be viewed as magnifi- 
cent a panorama as can well be imagined. To the rear, and 
gradually extending parallel with the immediate coast, rises a 
bold and mountainous tract of richly-cultivated land as far as 
the eye can reach towards the moors on the north. Inde- 
pendently of these attractions, the saline and mineral waters, 
justly celebrated for their wondrous cures in numerous dis- 
orders, would alone be sufficient to constitute Scarborough a 
place of note. 

The name of the town is derived from two Saxon words — 
skaer, a rock, and burgh, a town — and we find it occurring in 
the old Danish chronicles ; for Scarborough can lay claim to 
considerable antiquity. There are several traces of Roman 
encampments in the neighbourhood, and it has sent represen- 
tatives to Parliament from the earliest times. 

The building of the castle was commenced in 1136, for 
some time previous to which Scarborough was but little 
known, having sunk into comparative insignificance after 
being plundered and burnt in 1066, by Tosti, Earl of North- 
umberland, and Harold Hadrada, King of Norway. This 
castle of William-le-Gros, Earl of Albemarle, stands on a 
cliff, bounded on three sides by the German Ocean, and 
elevated nearly 300 feet above the level of the sea, presenting 
to the north-east and the south a vast sweep of craggy, per- 
pendicular rocks, totally inaccessible. The view from the 
summit is very fine. The western aspect is bold and majestic. 
A high, steep, and: rocky slope, thinly covered with verdure, 
commands the town and the bay by its superior elevation. 
Up to 1818 the castle could not be approached, except by a 
drawbridge ; but in that year it was removed, and the present 
stone bridge was built. Scarborough Castle has sustained 
two sieges. One of these, by the Parliamentary forces of 
Cromwell, in 1644-5, under Sir Hugh Cholmondeley, lasted 
nearly a twelvemonth. A most gallant defence was made, 
and the garrison capitulated with all the honours of war, after 
being nearly starved to death. 

The piers and harbours of Scarborough have for many cen- 
turies been deemed of such consequence to the northern 
trade on this side of the island that in very early times royal 
grants were made for their maintenance and security. In 
1732 the harbour was adjudged to be too dangerous and con- 



tracted, and, the ancient pier being inadequate for the in- 
creased requirements of the town, an Act was procured for 
enlarging both, at an estimated cost of ,£12,000. By that Act 
a duty of one halfpenny per chaldron was levied upon all coals 
carried in any ship or vessel from Newcastle, or ports belong- 
ing to it (this is now reduced to one-half), together with 
sundry other duties on imports, exports, and shipping payable 
at Scarborough. This old pier is called after Vincent, the 
engineer who completed it. Its entire length is 1,200 feet, the 
general breadth being from thirteen to eighteen feet. The new 
portion is broader than the old ; near the extremity it is forty- 
two feet. In 1763 the force of the sea in a violent gale of wind 
made a breach near the Locker-house, and the waves passing 
through washed many ships out of the harbour; the vessels 
were driven on the rocks beyond the spa and became com- 
pletely wrecked. Again, on the evening of New Year's Day, 
1767, another storm arose, by which all the ships were broken 
loose from their moorings, and a new vessel was washed off 
the stocks. These disasters led to the erection of a new pier, 
extending from the foot of the Castle Cliff, and sweeping 
farther out into the sea. The breadth of the foundation is 
sixty feet at the commencement; in the centre it is sixty-three 
feet. The elevation is forty, and the breadth at the top forty- 
two feet : the length is 460 yards, or 1,380 feet. The harbour 
is thus tolerably well sheltered by the land and the piers. 

Among the principal buildings maybe mentioned the Grand 
Hotel, opened July, 1867, the largest hotel in England. It is 
in the Italian style, and cost £"go,ooo in building alone, apart 
from the furnishing. The sea-front is ten stories high, and 
there are upwards of 300 bed-rooms. The Pavilion Hotel, 
opposite the railway-station, is also a handsome structure of 
its kind. 

The Museum is in the form of a rotunda, of the Romano- 
Doric order of architecture ; the cornice, which deserves par- 
ticular notice, was imitated from the Theatre of Marcellus, at 
Rome. The internal form was suggested by that celebrated 
geologist, Dr. Smith, and is designed to give an idea of the 
respective positions of the various strata, and of the fossil 
remains in their natural order, as they would be presented to 
view, supposing that a vertical section were made through the 
crust of the earth. Very few local museums can equal this 
for curious and unique specimens, in their several departments. 
Notice in particular the skeleton, beautifully preserved, of a 
British chieftain of most uncommon stature. It was taken 
out of a barrow in this neighbourhood, and was lying in a 
coffin which had been formed by hollowing out the trunk of 



WHITBY. 413 



an oak tree : when found, it was black with age. The collec- 
tion, as a whole, is well worth seeing. 

The Town Hall is not remarkable, but the parivh church of 
St. Mary's, occupying a prominent site above the town, is a 
venerable structure. It is the oldest church in Scarborough, 
and appears at one time to have been of great extent ; it pro- 
bably formed part of the Cistercian abbey and church founded 
by Edward II., and suppressed in the reign of Henry V. Its 
peal of bells are said to be the finest in the world, being the 
prize bells from the Great Exhibition of 1S51. It also contains 
a few stained-glass windows worthy of notice. There are 
numerous other churches and chapels, the best of which, from 
an architectural point of view, are St. Martin's-on-the-Hill ; 
the new Wesleyan Westborough Chapel, nearly opposite the 
railway-station, which has a fine portico with Corinthian 
columns, and the Roman Catholic Chapel, in the Castle Road, 
a building in the Decorated style. 

The Cliff and Ramsdale Valley Bridges aLo deserve men- 
tion, both as conveniences and ornaments. They were built 
by companies and halfpenny tolls are levied on pedestrians 
cros ing. There is always ample amusement at this delight- 
ful watering-place — charming rambles to sights in the vicinity, 
promenades in the day, and a theatre and concert in the even- 
ing, besides weekly balls held at the Grand Hotel. 

(For detailed information and descriptions of Scarborough 
and the vicinity see Shaw's Shilling Guide.) 

Whitby 

[Hotels : "Royal," on the West Cliff, " Angel/' and "White Horse "] . 
is twenty-one miles from Scarborough, and can be reached 
eithtr by train or steamer. The latter route is very enjoyable, 
particularly when the wind is westerly and the sea calm. The 
steamer then hugs the land, affording fine views of the coast, 
and occupying only an hour and a half in the journey. 

Whitby, or the " White Town " (the topographical termina- 
tion, &)•', is Danish and means town), is of great antiquity, though 
not rich in historical associations. It sprang up in connection 
with the abbey, founded by Oswy, King of Northumbeiland, 
in the year 658, and has at present a population of 13,094. 
Originally it was little more than a fishing-port, but in the 
seventeenth and eighteenth centuue?, it gradually increased the 
number and tonnage of its shipping, and it is now the sixth port 
in England. It is situated on the acclivities of the Esk 1 ? 
banks, which are united by a drawbridge, but the streets are 
narrow, and the general appearance unimpcsing. The new 



414 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

portion, along the West Cliff, contains some handsome dwell- 
ing-houses, and offers simple accommodation for tourists. The 
abbey ruins overlook the town from a high cliff on the east, 
and the parts of the church, which alone remain, indicate 
pretty clearly the former magnificence of the edifice, ere the 
feat of " Henricus Octavus," who, says the monkish couplet, 
" took more than he gave us," stripped it of everything of 
value, and consigned it to " the wild waste of all-devouring 
years." The groining of the aisles, however, the deep mould- 
ings of the six windows, which occupy the place of the usual 
great eastern window, and the pointed arches, supported on 
clustered columns, are in a tolerable state of preservation, and 
quite adequate to reviving " the legends of departed time." 
These legends are many and curious. Sir Walter Scott has 
preserved some in Marmion : — 

" Then Whitby's nuns exulting told 
How to their house three barons bold 

Must menial service do ; . . . 
Tb.e} ? told how in their convent cell 
A Saxon princess once did dwell, 

The lovely Edelfled ; 
And how, of thousand snakes, each one 
Was changed into a coil of stone, 

When Holy Hilda pray'd ; . . . 
They told how sea- fowls' pinions fail, 
As over Whitby's towers they sail, 

And sinking down, with flutterings faint, 

They do their homage to the saint." 

A colour is given to the story of the snakes by the fossil am- 
monites which are frequently discovered in the rocks. Among 
the geological treasures of the localty the petrified crocodile, 
found near Saltwick and preserved in the museum at Whitby, 
deserves mention. The monk Caedmon, whose poems are the 
earliest in the English language, belonged to the Whitby 
chapter, and the celebrated marine painter, Chambers, was a 
native of the place. Six miles south-east is Robin Hood's 
Bay, a picturesque spot, traditionally associated with the cele- 
brated outlaw. 

Bridlington, or Burlington 

[Hotel : •' Alexandra "J, 
lies eighteen miles to the south of Scarborough, and fhe 
beyond Flamborough Head. It is a place of some antiquity, and 
contains a very handsome church, lately restored, the stained 
glass window of which is worth seeing. Bridlington Quay, a 
somewhat fashionable watering-place, is about a mile from 
the old town. A very pleasant drive may be made to Flam- 
borough Head, which is well worth seeing. 



CHEADLE HULME— ALDERLEY— SANDBACH. 415 

SECTION XXXVIII. 

MANCHESTER TO CREWE. 

PASSING from Manchester to Stockport, which has already 
been alluded to on page 378, and leaving the latter place, 
we arrive at 

Cheadle Hulme 
(population 2,929), two miles and a half before reaching which, 
the celebrated viaduct is crossed . This viaduct is one of the rail- 
way marvels of our time, for it exhibits a roadway actually reared 
above a populous town and spanning a valley nearly a third of a 
mile in length. The height of the parapet above the River Mersey 
is 1 lift. The viaduct has twenty-seven magnificent arches. 
The cost of the undertaking was upwards of ^70,000. On each 
side thronged streets and narrow lanes stretch far below, while 
mills and factories rise out of a dense mass of houses. A branch 
line runs from Cheadle Hulme to Macclesfield. 

Handforth and Wilmslow are the next stations, after which 

Alderley 

[Hotel: " Trie Queen "] 
is reached. The town is near the seat of Lord Stanley of Alderley. 
The manor of Alderley has been in the hands of the Stanleys, a 
collateral branch of the family of the Earls of Derby, since the 
middle of the fifteenth century. Alderley Hall was burnt down 
in 1779, when the offices were fitted up as a farmhouse. Alder- . 
ley Park is celebrated for its fine timber trees. From the Edge, 
some very extensive views may be obtained ; these embrace Man- 
chester and Stockport on the one hand, and the mountains of 
the Peak on the other. On the Edge stands a beacon used in 
cases of invasion ; down the hill is the holy well, the waters of 
which, in olden days, were supposed to be an antidote to barren- 
ness. Passing Chelford and Holmes Chapel, the next station is 

Sandbach 

[Hotel: ''George"] 
a town of 3,259 inhabitants, prettily situated on the river 
Wheelock, from which the Welsh mountains and Derbyshire 
hills can be seen in fine weather. Its trade is chiefly in silk and 
salt. Lord Crewe is the owner. There is a fine old cross in the 
market place. Leaving this station the train passes on to 
Crewe, which we have already noticed. 



416 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 



L 



SECTION XXXIX. 

CREWE TO OSWESTRY AND SHREWSBURY. 

EAVING Crewe and its extensive works, the first station 
passed is Willaston, after which we reach 

Nantwich 

[Hotels : " Lamb," " Crown," and " Union "], 
a town with a population of 6,673, which owed its former 
prosperity to its brine springs and salt works, a local industry 
of great celebrity and antiquity. Xow the chief manufactures 
are of shoes, cheese, gloves, and cotton goods. The houses are 
mostly old, and built of timber and plaster. The church is large, 
cruciform, with stalls, stone pulpit, and an octagonal tower. 
Passing Wrenbury station, we arrive at 

Whitchurch 

[Hotels : " Victoria," " White Lion," and "Swaa"], 
a town with a population of 3,696, prettily situated on an emi- 
nence, at the summit of which stands the church, a handsome 
edifice, rebuilt in 1722 on the site of a more ancient structure. 
Tt contains several effigies of the Talbots, one of which is to the 
memory of the famous Earl of Shrewsbury. 

Passing Prees station, the next place of any note is 

Wem 

[Hotels : " White Horse," "Castle," and " Buck's Head "], 
the birthplace of Jeffries, of infamous memory, who was 
educated at Shrewsbury School. Wem was taken by Sir W. 
Brereton, and given to Jeffries by James II., who created him 
Baron Wem. Tire line next serves Yorton and Hadnall stations, 
and arrives at 

Shrewsbury 

[Hotels : " Raven," "Lion, and " George"], 
the capital of Shropshire. Its great antiquity is evidenced by 
the narrow but picturesque streets, with their quaint names and 
timbered houses (population 23,406). Macaulay gives a graphic 
account of its ancient importance in the first volume of his 
History. The site is formed by a peninsular promontory of 
'be Severn's bank, and the town is thus surrounded on three 



SHREWSBURY. 417 



sides by the river. The place was first built on by the 
Britons, and grew into importance under the Saxon rule. Mont- 
gomery erected a strong Norman castle, after the Conquest, on 
the neck of the peninsula, to secure the only approach by land, and 
from this time Shrewsbury became one of the strongest and most 
important of the Welsh border towns. The castle has been partly 
restored, and the keep and walls are in good preservation. 

The Old Market House is of the Elizabethan era, and contains 
a statue of Richard of York, the immediate ancestor of the royal 
House of York. A new Market Hall and Corn Exchange has 
recently been built at a cost of about ^50,000. The County and 
Town Hall is a handsome modern building, replacing the ancient 
Booth Hall, erected in Edward II. 's time. It contains many royal 
portraits, as well as one of Admiral Benbow, who was born in 
Shrewsbury. Notice as well as the gate and old hall of the Council 
House, the Clothworkers' Hall, and the Grammar School, which 
was founded by Edward VI. Bishop Butler was once master ; 
and among the former celebrated pupils were Fulke Greville, 
Wycherley, the comic dramatist of the Restoration period, and 
Sir Philip Sidney, the most accomplished and most chivalrous 
knight of a chivalrous age. 

The principal church is Holy Cross, which stands near one of 
the two handsome bridges that span the Severn. It is a Norman 
structure, originally connected with an abbey founded after the 
Conquest, and has an exquisitely-traced Gothic pulpit of stone. 
The cruciform church of St. Mary is also very old, and has an 
elegant spire, 220 feet in height. Besides these, notice the 
modern church of St. Chad, a circular building, with a copy of 
the "Descent from the Cross" of Rubens in the great window. 
The avenue leading hence to the river is called the Quarry 
Promenade. 

The battle of Shrewsbury, in which Henry IV. defeated the 
Percys in 1403, and in which Falstaff, according to his own 
account, engaged Hotspur himself, "a long hour by Shrewsbury 
clock," was fought at Battlefield, three miles north of the town. 
In the vicinity is the celebrated Shelton Oak, seated amid the 
topmost boughs of which Owen Glendower watched the issue of 
the battle. This noble tree has a girth of forty-four feet. 

Sundorne Castle, on the grounds of which stands Hanghmond 
Priory ; Hawkstone Park, with its pretty grottoes, fine views, ami 
Lord Hill's column, 112 feet high; and Condover, an Eliza- 
bethan mansion containing a good collection of paintings, should 
be visited. An excursion to Uriconium, at Wroxeter, a buried 
city of the Romans, will also prove interesting. Portions of 
streets, houses, baths, and a market-place, together with nume- 
rous domestic utensils and coins, have been excavated. 



27 



418 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 



SECTION XL. 

WHITCHURCH TO OSWESTRY AND ABERYSTWITH. 

FROM Whitchurch a line leaves the route and proceeds in a 
westerly direction, passing the stations of Fenn's Bank, 
Bettisfield, and Welshampton to 

Ellesmere, 

a small town on the shores of a lake of the same name. Excel- 
lent views may be obtained from the site of the old castle. The 
Ellesmere Canal (now incorporated with the Shropshire Union 
Canal, and belonging to the London and North- Western 
Company) is an important element in the internal naviga- 
tion of Great Britain. It passes through some of the richest 
mining districts, and serves to connect the midland canals with 
the Severn system of water carriage. By it, there is a water 
communication between the ports of Bristol and Liverpool, and 
likewise a junction of the rivers Humber, Trent, Mersey, Dee, 
and Severn. A visit should be paid to Ellesmere church, which 
has a fine tower and excellent windows. 

Passing Frankton station, we reach Whittington, where are the 
remarkable ruins of Whittington Castle, said to have been the 
birthplace and residence of Fitz-Gwarin, one of the barons who 
opposed King John. The village is picturesquely situated. Two 
miles to the west is 

Oswestry 

[Hotel : " W ynnstay Arms "], 

a town with a population of 7,306, employed in paper and corn 
mills, flannel and linen manufactures, and the mining industry. 
It occupies a strongly defensive situation upon high land, and was 
anciently fortified. The remains of a wall surrounding the town 
may be seen. Here Cswald, King of Northumbria, lost his life 
in 642, in a battle wiC Penda. It was in the castle, the ruins 
of which may be seen on a hill outside the town, that Henry IV., 
when Duke of Plereford, met to settle his difficulties with the 
Duke of Norfolk. 

From Oswestry, continuing the route, we pass through some un- 
important stations to Welshpool, and from thence to Machynlleth 
and Aberystwith (already described on page 225). 



NE WPOR T— WELLING TON— WELSIIPO OL. 419 

SECTION XLT. 

STAFFORD TO SHREWSBURY AND WELSHPOOL, 

SHREWSBURY and Central Wales may also be reached by a 
branch line, which leaves Stafford in a westerly direction, 
and passing Hanghton and Gnosal, arrives at 

Newport 

[Hotels : " Royal Victoria," "Crown," and "Raven"], 
a town with a population ol 3,202, situated near the Roman 
Watling Street. It contains a fine church of the fifteenth century, 
much of the value of which was lost in recent restoration. Lilies- 
hall, the seat of the Duke of Sutherland, is in the neighbour- 
hood. From hence Donnington, Trench, and Hadley stations 
are passed successively, when the traveller reaches 

Wellington 

[Hotels : "Bull's Head," "Carlton Arms," and "Wrekin"], 
situated about two miles from the base of the Wrekin, from 
whence a most extended prospect may be obtained. It contains 
about 6,000 inhabitants, principally employed in coal, iron, and 
lime works. Passing Admaston, Walcot, and Upton Magna 
stations, the tourist arrives at Shrewsbury. 

From Shrewsbury the line passes Hanwood, where is a short 
branch to Minsterley, next through the stations of Yockleton, 
Westbury, Middleton, and Buttington, before reaching 

Welshpool 

[Hotels : " Royal Oak " and ' ' Lion "], 
a borough of some 7,000 inhabitants, chiefly engaged in the flannel 
manufacture,^ malting and tanning being subsidiary trades. 
Welshpool is seated at the head of the navigation of the Severn, 
and carries on a considerable inland trade. It is no way re- 
markable for the character of its architecture. Among the 
many picturesque seats which surround Welshpool, particular 
attention may be called to Powis Castle, a residence of the Earl 
of Powis. It is seated on a commanding eminence, affording 
very extensive views. The grounds surrounding it are large and 
well planted, and are generously thrown open to the inhabitants 
of the town, about a mile distant. The Castle is a noble and 
romantic structure. It contains a gallery 117 feet long by 20 
feet broad, holding a valuable collection of paintings, sculpture, 
and articles of tfirth. 



420 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 



SECTION XLIL 

SHREWSBURY TO HEREFORD. 

THE route from Shrewsbury to Hereford lies along the 
"marches," as they were formerly called, the boundary 
between England and Wales. Passing the stations of Condover, 
Dorrington, and Leebotwood, we come to 

Church Stretton 

[Hotels : " Church Stretton Hotel" and " Buck's Head "], 
a small Salopian town, with a population of 1,756, situated in 
a fine rugged hollow, between the Long Mynd Hills and Wen- 
lock Edge. The neighbourhood is very beautiful, and many sheep 
are pastured on the hills. Here we again meet with traces of 
Watling Street, one of the finest specimens of Roman roads extant. 
It commenced at Dover, and terminates at Cardigan ; it was 
formed of large sticks with wattles (hence its name) between 
them. At Caer Caradoc [i.e., the Hill of Caractacus), in the 
vicinity, the remains of an old British camp are still to be seen. 

Passing Marsh Brook, we arrive at Craven Arms (see page 
453), whence a direct line leads to Llandovery, Caermarthen, 
and Swansea. The next stations are Onibury and Bromfield, 
after which the tourist reaches 

Ludlow 

[Hotels : " Angel " and " Feathers "], 
on the Shropshire side of the river Teme, which here divides 
that county from Hereford. It is a well-built borough town 
(population 5,087), dealing principally in agricultural produce. 
The surrounding country is rich in scenery and fine old country 
seats, and the town itself contains the noble ruins of Ludlow 
Castle, as well as a noticeable cruciform church of the fifteenth 
century, whose oak roof and tower and main entrance cannot 
fail to excite admiration. The castle was built by Roger 
Montgomery, to whom the defence of the "marches" was 
entrusted by William the Conqueror. The ruins consist of the 
keep, 1 10 feet in height, two towers, a chapel after a Norman 
design, and the great hall, where Milton's masque, Comns, 
was performed ; the subject being an incident which occurred to 
the daughter and two sons of the Earl of Bridgewater, the then 
Lord President of Wales and the "marches," when journeying 



WOOFFERTON— LEOMINSTER— HEREFORD. 421 

through Haywood Forest towards Ludlow. Here, anterior to 
this, took place the marriage between Henry VII. 's eldest son 
Arthur and Catherine of Arragon. The most interesting of the 
seats already referred to are Denham House, the late residence 
of Prince Lucien Bonaparte, and Wigmore, about seven miles dis- 
tant, on the grounds of which stand the ruins of an old castle 
once belonging to the Mortimers, Earls of March. 

Woofferton 

is the next station in continuing the southern journey. From 
this station a branch line takes the tourist to Tenbury, situated 
on the river Teme, Bewdley, Stourport, and Droitwich. Leaving 
Woofferton, we pass Berrington and Eye, and arrive at 

Leominster 

[Hotels: ''Royal Oak" and "Talbot"], 
a borough town (population 5,863), manufacturing coarse cloth, 
hats, and leather gloves. There are many of the old-fashioned 
semi-wood-and-plaster houses, the ornamentations of which show 
that the bygone inhabitants were either in affluent circumstances 
or were anxious to be thought so. The church, lately restored, 
contains some curious monuments. Visits should also be paid 
to the Butter Cross (a singular building, formed of timber, and 
erected about 1633), the Market House, the Gaol, and the 
Workhouse (formerly part of a priory. 

Pursuing the journey, the tourist successively passes Ford 
Bridge, Dinmore, and Moreton stations, and arives at 

Hereford 

("Hotels : " Green Dragon," " City Arms," " Mitre," " Greyhound," an 
" Black Swan"], 

the capital of the shire, situated on an ancient ford of the Wye, 
hence its name (population 18,347). The "ford" was formerly 
protected by a castle, erected by Harold, but this has long since 
disappeared, and the site is now occupied by a monumental column 
in honour of Nelson. The castle was remarkable as being the 
scene of De Spencer's execution by the barons, and the deposition, 
subsequently, of his royal patron, Edward II. The older por- 
tions of the town are situated on low ground, with the houses 
closely packed together. Traces of the wall may still be seen, but 
The Cathedral, in which are held the festivals of the Three 
Choirs, is the most attractive remnant of Hereford's antiquity. 
Situated near the river, it has been recently restored under the 
superintendence of Sir Gilbert Scott. A former restoration of the 
west front by Wyatt was a decided failure. The see is a very ancient 



one, a bishopric having existed here, according to Archbishop 
Usher, since the sixth century. The present building, however 
does not date farther back than 1079, when it was commenced by- 
Bishop Loreng, but was not completed until a century afterwards, 
and several minor portions were added at various periods subse- 
quently. Two other structures had successively stood on the same 
site, and some archaeologists maintain that parts of the present 
building must be referred to the ninth century. The exterior 
exhibits much dissimilarity of style, and the incongruous west front 
is a great disfigurement. Note especially the northern facade, 
the Gothic chapels, the metal screen between the nave and choir, 
the reredos, and the Cantilupe shrine. The cathedral is a cross, 
325 feet in length, and 100 feet across the transept. The vault- 
ing of the roof is seventy feet high, and of the grand central 
tower 144 feet. There is a curious map of the world in the 
library, of Saxon time ; the tiled floor also should be noticed. 

The remaining points to be observed in the city are the Shire 
Hall, where concerts of the triennial musical festivals are held, the 
Corn Exchange, Market House, and an ancient White Cross, 
erected in the fourteenth century as the spot where the country 
people were wont, during the plague, to lay their agricultural 
produce, without entering the town. 

Hereford was Garrick's native city. Cider and perry are 
brewed, and a considerable trade is done in hops, wool, and cattle, 
of which last the Hereford breed is remarkably fine. There are 
many interesting seats in the neighbourhood, of which Foxley 
should at least be visited, being planned by Sir Uvedale Price, 
the author of Essays on the Picturesque and other works on 
landscape gardening and kindred subjects. 



SECTION XLIIL 

WOOFFEETON TO DHOIIWICH, via TENBUFvY AND 
BEWDLEY. 

FROM Woofferton Junction, the line proceeds in an easterly 
direction for about five miles before reaching Tenbury, a small 
town of about 1,200 inhabitants, situated in a pretty agricultural 
district, given to the growth of orchard fruit and hops. The 
beautiful Teme, a confluent of the Severn, passes Tenbury, and 
gives a great charm to the district. Leaving Tenbury the train 



BE WDLE Y— DROITWICH. 



passes through the minor stations, called Newnham Bridge, Neen 
Sollars, Cleobury Mortimer, and Wyre Forest to 

Bewdley 

[Hotels: "George" and " Black Boy "], 
a more considerable town of over 3,000 inhabitants, prettily 
situated on the banks of the glorious Severn. The bridge was 
built by the famous Telford, the engineer who constructed the 
suspension bridge over the Menai Straits. Bewdley lies on both 
sides of the Severn, to which it is indebted for much of its pros- 
perity. Pursuing the route, we are taken past Stourport, a 
small town with a considerable trade in agricultural products and 
glass, to Hartlebury Junction. Near the town of the same name 
is Hartlebury Castle, the seat of the bishops of Worcester, de- 
stroyed by Cromwell but rebuilt by the later bishops. From the 
junction a run of about foilr miles conducts the tourist to 

Droitwich 

[Hotel : George "], 
a town of 3j5°4 inhabitants, which owes its importance to the 
existence of extensive beds of rock salt some hundred feet below 
the surface. Brine springs supply the salt, which is procured in 
great fineness by evaporating the water at a high temperature. 
The town is connected with the system of the Severn naviga- 
tion by a canal six miles in length, capable of bearing vessels of 
600 tons burden. At Westwood Hall, the original of Addison's 
Sir Roger de Coverley lived in the bosom of his tenantry. His name 
was Sir Herbert Pakington. His descendants still own the 
seat. Ombersley Court is the seat of Lord Sandys. Both these 
estates are near Droitwich. 



SECTION XLIV. 

HEREFORD TO BIRMINGHAM, via MALVERN, WORCES- 
TER, DROITWICH, KIDDERMINSTER, AND STOUR- 
BRIDGE. 

LEAVING the cathedral city of Hereford already described 
on pp. 421-2, the traveller passes successively the stations of 
Withington, Stoke Edith, close to which are the remains of a priory 
and a Roman Camp, and Ashperton, to Ledbury, a town of 
nearly 3,000 inhabitants, engaged in the manufacture of rope and 



424 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

twine, cider and perry. The country around is largely occupied 
with hop gardens and orchards. After passing Colwall, the 
traveller arrives at a group of three stations which form the inland 
watering- place or spa of Malvern. They are 

Malvern Wells or Little Malvern 

[Hotels: " Essington's/' "Holywell/' and "Admiral Benbow *'], 

Great Malvern 

[Hotels: "Imperial/' "Abbey," "Foley Arms/ "Belle Vue," and 
" Beauchamp"], 

Malvern Link 

[Hotel: " Malvern Link "]. 

These comprise a most attractive and healthy watering-place. 
The hills on which they are situated are an isolated ridge sup- 
posed to be of volcanic origin, and form the boundary line be- 
tween the counties of Hereford and Worcester. They are 
chiefly composed of limestone and sandstone, together with 
syenite and granite, and afford excellent and extensive pasturage 
from base to summit to large flocks of sheep. On one side of 
the range is the valley of the Severn, and on the other the 
"sylvan Wye," the "wanderer through the. woods," winds 
along its picturesque banks. The view from the Worcestershire 
beacon, the highest summit (1,444 feet) is unequalled, embracing 
beautiful rural and mountain scenery, and distant prospects of 
Gloucester, Worcester, and Hereford Cathedrals, Tewkesbury 
Abbey Church, the town of Cheltenham, and the Severn. The 
beacon light was visible from twelve different counties. The 
view from the the Herefordshire beacon, near Little Malvern, is 
also very extensive, and the summit possesses another attraction in 
one of the most perfect ancient British encampments extant. The 
scenery about Malvern Link is also very fine. It is completely 
made up of lofty hanging woods, and deep shady glens, watered 
by rushing trout streams, where the lullaby of falling waters 
makes perpetual music; whilst occasional escarpments of purple 
or red rocks add wildness to the bold scenery, and here and 
there, peeping through orchard trees, appear old-timbered farm- 
houses, still intact in their obscurity, with turreted chimneys and 
numerous diamond-paned windows. The Wych Pass, to the 
south of Malvern, also deserves mention. 

The springs, tepid and sulphuretted, and the hydropathic esta- 
blishments, together with its salubrious climate, are the magnets 
which chiefly draw visitors in the first instance to Malvern, but 
antiquities and architectural ornaments are not wanting. The 
handsome cruciform church of Great Malvern, which is by Sir 



WORCESTER. 425 



Reginald Bray, the architect of Henry VII. 's chapel at West- 
minster Abbey, has lately been restored, and contains some 
ancient monumental figures and stained-glass windows. Hard 
by are the remains of Malvern Priory, founded before the Con- 
quest, and famed as the priory of Robert Langland, the author 
of Piers Ploughman, a most interesting alliterative poem, in the 
early English stage of the language, illustrative of the manners 
and customs of the period {i.e., the fourteenth century). The 
church and priory at Little Malvern are also picturesque both 
in situation and appearance. The " storied " windows of the former 
are worth examining. Notice, too, the Roman Catholic church. 
Resuming the route at Malvern Link, the train hurries the 
traveller past Bransford Road and Henwick stations to the 
ancient cathedral city of 

Worcester 

[Hotels: " Star and Garter," " Hop Pole," "Bell," "Unicorn," and 
" Crown"], 

containing a population of 38,116 souls. It is situated on the 
left bank of the Severn, and carries on several important branches 
of manufacture. Of these, glove-making gives employment to 
upwards of 1,500 hands, who send into the markets annually 
more than half a million of pairs of gloves, chiefly kid and leather. 
Another distinctive manufacture is the production of fine porcelain 
china, known as "Worcester ware." It was established by Dr. 
Wall about a hundred years ago. The Royal Porcelain Works 
are in Worcester. The chief attraction to visitors is 

The Cathedral, which stands south of the city, between the 
Birmingham canal and the river. It is in the form of a double 
cross, 394 feet long, with a pinnacled tower 170 feet high. The 
greater portion of the building is in Early English ; but the crypt 
is Norman, and the vaulting of the interior is of various dates, 
and consequently in various styles. The whole structure has 
lately been restored at the enormous cost of ^100,000. The 
western arches of the nave are probably a portion of the original 
cathedral erected by Oswald in the tenth century, but the rest of 
the building is subsequent to the Conquest, being the restoration 
of Wulstan in 1084. The stone vaulting was commenced in the 
north aisle of the nave during the early part of the fourteenth 
century, by Bishop Cobham, and succeeding bishops continued 
the work. Accordingly, the different developments of Gothic as 
they sprung into use appear in this ancient structure. The nave 
is a specimen of the Later Pointed and Transition period, the 
arches resting on clustered columns with foliated capitals. The 
choir is in the Early Pointed style, with arches not quite so acute. 
The north of the nave is Decorated, while the south is Perpen- 



426 LOXDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

dicular ; the chapel of Prince Arthur is of the Florid order, and 
the cloisters exhibit the characteristics of the Decorated Pointed 
style. These have been lately restored, and contain, like the 
rest of the cathedral, windows filled with some of the finest 
specimens of stained glass to be found in England, The old 
place is very rich in tombs and monuments ; it contains the earliest 
royal monument in the country — that of King John — which was 
opened in the last century and the body shown to the people. 
There are, besides, monuments to Littleton, the celebrated legal 
authority of the fifteenth century ; Prince Arthur, the eldest 
brother of Henry VIII. ; Bishop Hough (one of Roubiliac's hap- 
piest attempts) ; and the lately erected reredos, raised to the 
memory of his wife by Dean Peel. Every third year, in turn 
with the choirs of Hereford and Gloucester, musical festivals 
are held in this structure for the benefit of the widows and 
orphans of clergymen. The tower of the cathedral has been 
recently enriched by the addition of a magnificent peal of bells, 
at a cost of £3,000. 

Several of the City Churches also deserve a visit. Hard by 
the cathedral stands the modern church of St. Andrews, built 
after the early Gothic style. Though the design of a common 
mason, the spire is a truly admirable work, rising 155 feet from 
a tower, 90 feet high, while its greatest diameter is only 20 feet. 
Notice also St. Peter's, St. Alban's, and St. Helen's. The old 
Episcopal Palace contains some royal portraits, as does also 
the Guildhall. The Grammar School, where Samuel Butler 
was educated, was founded by Elizabeth. Edgar's Tower 
is the remnant of the ancient castle ; and there are pre- 
served in it the MSS. of the monks, the marriage bond of 
Shakespeare, and an autograph of Sir Thomas Lucy, the proto- 
type of "Justice Shallow." Another piece of antiquity is the 
house, in New Street, where Charles II. stayed previous to the 
battle of Worcester, and from which he narrowly escaped, by 
the back door, as the soldiers of Cromwell were forcing their 
way in at the front entrance. The old hospital, near Ledbury 
Gate, where the Duke of Hamilton died of the wounds received 
at this battle, was standing until lately. A handsome bridge 
of five arches crosses the Severn. At Claines, near which are 
remains of White Ladies Nunnery, are preserved the bed and cup 
used by Elizabeth during her visit in 1585. 

Leaving this ancient and interesting city the route conducts the 
traveller to Droitwich and Hartlebury Junction, which have 
been already described in the preceding section. At the latter 
station, the line takes a more northerly direction in order to 
visit the busy town of 



K1DDERMINS 7 ER—S TO URBRID GE. 427 



Kidderminster. 

[Hotels : "Lion" and " Black Horse "], 
The population exceeds 20,800, who are chiefly engaged in 
its manufactures, amongst which stands first the production of 
the kind of carpet, well known as " Kidderminster." The town 
is well built and regular, and stands on either bank of the river 
Stour. From the church may be obtained an extensive and 
beautiful view, embracing the hills of Wales and the Malvern 
range, with an extended sweep of country. The church stands 
on the top of a hill, and is worthy of inspection for the beauty 
of its windows. The Grammar School was founded by Charles I. 
Kidderminster was honoured with the ministrations of the pious 
Baxter, of whom the Saiufs Rest is the best memorial. A statue 
of the celebrated divine has been recently placed in a conspicuous 
position in the town. 

There is nothing calling for notice after leaving Kiddermin- 
ster, en route for Birmingham until we reach 

Stourbridge 

[Hotel : " Talbot"], 
having passed the intermediate stations of Churchill and Hagley. 
The town under notice is a handsome busy manufacturing com- 
munity of about 9,376 souls. Here the tourist will have entered 
the region of the " black country, 5 ' coal and iron being found in 
abundance in the vicinity. Stourbridge has most extensive glass 
manufactures. 

From hence the line passes Lye, Cradley, and Oldbury, three 
places engaged in Birmingham manufactures. Thence by Smeth- 
wick Junction to Birmingham, already noticed on pages 265-73. 



SECTION XLV. 

CREWE, via WARRINGTON, TO THE NORTH. 

TOURISTS from London to the North do not necessarily 
visit Liverpool, the Scotch through carriages being 
separated from the other portions of the express trains at Crewe, 
and despatched, as we have already stated (page 263), via 
Warrington. After leaving Crewe, the train passes Minshull 
Vernon and Winsford (see pages 261-2), and reaches Hartford, 
the junction for North wich. The train here passes through a 



4 2S LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

deep cutting, emerging from which we see Grange Hall standing 
on a well-wooded eminence. The next station is Acton Bridge, 
after leaving which we pass through a number of cuttings and 
over a long embankment, which ends in the famous 

Dutton Viaduct. 

This is more than a quarter of a mile long, and carries the line 
over the vale of Dutton and the river Weaver ; it consists of 
twenty arches, and is constructed of red sandstone. A very 
extensive view is obtained from the centre of the viaduct ; the 
barges are seen pursuing the intricacies of the Weaver Naviga- 
tion, whilst charming views of the river and of glorious landscapes 
are obtained. Passing over an embankment by which the line 
is carried over Dutton Bottoms, and which affords glimpses of 
beautiful hills and dells and of Aston Hall, a noble edifice, the 
seat of Sir A. J. Aston, G.C.B., we run through Preston Brook 
tunnel and station. At this spot, we note the junction of the 
Bridgewater and the Grand Trunk canals. The line is now 
crossed by a canal viaduct and passes over the Birkenhead and 
Cheshire Junction Railway. We next reach Moore station, leaving 
which, we run over the Moore viaduct, of twelve arches (hence 
its local name of Walton Arches), which crosses the river Mersey 
and the Mersey and Irwell canals, at this spot running side by 
side, and reach the busy town of 

Warrington. 

[Hotels : " Patten Arms " and " Lion."] 
Warrington occupies the site of an old town of British founda- 
tion, its name being originally Waerington, signifying a fortified 
place. It is 181 miles from London, and stands on the great 
Roman road from the north to the south of the county. Its 
population in 1871 was about 33,000, and it returns one member 
to Parliament. The town was made a Roman station under 
Agricola. During the Civil War, it sided with the king, and 
suffered severely for its loyalty. There are not many old build- 
ings now remaining, in consequence of the severe conflicts which 
formerly occurred in the town. The bridge over the Mersey was 
built by Thomas, Earl of Derby, to enable Henry VII. to pay him 
a visit. The navigation of the Mersey is free from this town to the 
sea, and vessels of 1 5 1 tons can get up to Bank Quay, where 
shipbuilding was at one time successfully carried on. Warrington 
is noted as having been the town from whence the first stage- 
coach in England started ; and for its Academy, among whose 
masters were Aikin, Priestley, Taylor, Enfield, Gilbert, Wake- 
field, etc. The building was but recently removed to form a new 



WINWICK— RARLESTOWN JUNCTION. 429 

street. The first newspaper in Lancashire (the Advertiser) was 
published here in 1756 ; it is still extant. The writings of 
Howard, Mrs. Barbauld, and other eminent authors were issued 
from its press. The parish church, dedicated to St. Elphin, is of 
Saxon origin; it has recently been rebuilt. The edifice is a beau- 
tiful one ; its tower and spire are among the most lofty in the 
United Kingdom. There are many other churches and chapels, 
some of them of considerable architectural pretensions. The 
Clergy Diocesan Orphan Schools, on the ancient Mote Hill, 
adjoining the parish church, are worthy of a visit, as are 
also the Library and Museum, the Boteler Grammar School, 
and other buildings. Warrington is the seat of considerable 
factories, especially of iron and wire. Many Roman remains 
have been found in the neighbourhood ; and the recollection of 
a priory founded in the thirteenth century is preserved in the 
street nomenclature. Warrington is an important junction ; it 
is midway between Liverpool and Manchester, and nearly equi- 
distant from Chester. The town gives a title to the Grey family, 
Earl of Stamford and Warrington. Stockton Heath, an en- 
closure to the south of the town, is supposed to have been the 
Roman Condate. 

Adjoining the line, though without a station, is the pretty 
village of 

Winwick, 

about two miles and a half north of Warrington station. With 
one exception (Doddington, Cambridgeshire), the rectory is the 
richest in the kingdom ; its patronage is vested in the Earl of 
Derby. Tradition asserts that Winwick was the chosen residence 
of Oswald, king of Northumberland, and that the church marks 
the spot where he fell, fighting against the Pagans of Mercia in 
642. The church is of ancient foundation, and contains effigies 
of the Leghs, of Lyme, and other distinguished families ; it is 
dedicated to St. Oswald. A well, named after that saint, was 
supposed to be possessed of peculiar sanctity ; pilgrimages were 
formerly made to it, and it still supplies the holy water for the 
neighbouring Catholic chapels. There are no less than thirty- 
seven endowed charities (includmg a good grammar school) in 
the parish. 

Earlestown Junction 

is the next station after leaving Warrington ; from thence the 
line runs to Wigan, via Golborne, catching views of rich land' 
scapes in all directions. The route to Carlisle is fully described 
in the following section. 



430 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 



SECTION XLVI. 

LIVERPOOL TO CARLISLE. 

WE now purpose returning to Liverpool, in order to explore 
the country north of that port, as far as Carlisle, the end 
of the main line of the North- Western system. Taking the train 
at the Lime Street station, the tourist will proceed, via Huyton, 
Prescott, and Thatto Heath, to St. Helens (described on 
page 362). From thence, passing Garswood and Erynn stations, 
he reaches 

Wigan 

Hotels : "Clarence," "Victoria," "Eagle and Child," " Railway," and 

"Nicholson's Temperance"], 

a cotton manufacturing town in Lancashire, with a population 
of 39,110 inhabitants, situated near the head of the little river 
Douglas, and of considerable antiquity. King Arthur is said to 
have defeated the Saxons near Wigan. All Saints' Church, with 
its tower, dates from before Edward III.'s time, and contains 
tombs of the Bradshaigh family, ancestors of the Earl of Crawford 
and Balcarres. There is a monumental pillar in Wigan Lane, in 
honour of Sir T. Tyldesley, who fell at the battle of Wigan 
Lane in 1651, when the Royalists under the Earl of Derby were 
routed by Colonel Lilburne. Six weeks after that, the Earl was 
beheaded at Bolton. In 1648, Cromwell paid Wigan a visit, 
still commemorated by Cromwell's Ditch on the township border. 
The Pretender visited it in 1745. 

The vicinity of Wigan abounds with cannel coal, of a fine 
jetty black, capable of being worked into blocks for building 
and for ornaments of various character. From thence, the line lies 
through Standish, the seat of a family of the same name, near 
which is Haigh Hall, the residence of the Earl of Crawford and 
Balcarres. Coppull, Euxton, Leyland, and Farrington stations 
succeed, after which we reach 

Preston 

[Hotels : " Bull and Royal," "Red Lion/"' "Victoria," and "Castle"], 
another, but larger, cotton manufacturing town, with a population 
of 85,427, standing on a hill above the beautiful valley of the 
Ribble. It has been the scene of many struggles, both military 
and industrial. King John, two of the Edwards, John O'Gaunt, 
and James I. successively visited the town. During the civil 
war Preston was first occupied by the Royal party, but was 



quickly taken by the Parliamentary forces. It was again taken 
by the Earl of Derby, who demolished the defences. At Ribble- 
ton Moor, near by, the Duke of Hamilton was defeated by Crom- 
well in 1648; while in 1 71 5 the friends of the Pretender were 
routed by Generals Willesj and Carpenter on the same spot. 
The "Guilds" of Preston are held every twenty years, when the 
operatives and various trades and the aristocracy of the county 
assemble to join in the festivities of the season, the expense of 
which is borne by the town. It has been the scene of many 
severe struggles between the operatives and the cotton masters, 
the largest of which was a strike which lasted for thirty-nine 
weeks, in the winter of 1853-4, when nearly sixteen thousand 
people were thrown out of employment. The town is governed 
by a corporation, consisting of a mayor, twelve aldermen, and 
thirty-six councillors. It has numerous charters, conferring con- 
siderable privileges on its inhabitants ; the first extant was granted 
by Henry II., and the most recent by George IV. The parish 
church, dedicated to St. John, was rebuilt in 1855 ; it is in the 
Decorated style of architecture, and its tower contains a good 
peal of eight bells. There are numerous other churches and 
chapels in the town. 

The inhabitants are provided as well as those of any town in 
England with the means of recreation and exercise. The Aven- 
ham and Miller Parks, situated on a sloping piece of ground on 
the banks of the river Ribble, to the south of the town, are exten- 
sive and tastefully laid out. The terraces and gardens command 
good views of the river and the surrounding country ; the higher 
ground adjoining is covered with handsome villa residences. 
The former covers an area of nearly twenty-four acres ; the latter 
is eleven acres in extent, and was presented to the corporation by 
the late Mr. Thomas Miller, one of Preston's merchant princes, on 
condition of their founding an exhibition of ^"40 to enable deserv- 
ing scholars from the Grammar School to prosecute their studies 
at Oxford or Cambridge. It contains a statue of the late Earl 
of Derby, by Noble, of London, the result of two public sub- 
scriptions, the one contributed by the country gentry and the 
other by the working classes, who raised ^600 in pennies. 
Moor Park, a mile from the town, has an area of a hundred acres ; 
and the Marshes on its western side, twenty-two acres in extent, 
are also used as a recreation ground. Moor Park, Miller Park, 
and Avenham Park were laid out by the operatives, at the public 
expense, as a means of subsistence, during the cotton famine of 
1864-6. 

Preston has a good Town Hall, by Scott, but few other worthy 
architectural monuments. There are many beautiful walks in 
the neighbourhood of the town. Sir Richard Arkwright was 



432 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 



born there in 1732, and thirty-six years after commenced some 
of his improvements in connection with the cotton-spinning 
machinery. 

Leaving this once aristocratic town, near which is Stonyhurst 
College, a noted educational establishment of the Jesuits, made 
famous in the great Tichborne trial, as the scene of Roger Tich- 
borne's later boyhood, we pass Broughton, Brock, Garstang 
Junction, Scorton, Bay Horse, and Galgate stations, and reach 
Lancaster 

[Hotels : " King's Arms," " Feathers," "Queen," " Bear and_ Staff," 
and " County"], 

a town of over 17,000 inhabitants, situated on the Lime. The 
most prominent feature in connection with this well-known town 
is the castle, a strong fortress erected by John O 'Gaunt, in the 
reign of Edward III. It stands on a hill on the west side of the 
town, on the site of one built after the Conquest by Roger de 
Poictou. It is now converted into a county gaol. The county 
courts are attached to this building. The Duchess of Lancaster 
is one of the titles of the Queen ; the chancellorship of the duchy 
is a ministerial office, the magistrates of the borough being ap- 
pointed by the holder of this office. On the north of the castle 
stands St. Mary's, an old church, the exterior of which dates 
from the fifteenth century. It contains carved stalls, screen, and 
monuments. Lancaster has a considerable trade, vessels of from 
two to three hundred tons approaching the town. Table-baize, 
silk, and varnish are largely made here. Cotton and hard- 
ware manufactures constitute the principal exports. Professors 
Owen and Whewell were born in Lancaster and educated at the 
Grammar School. The origin of the town is lost in the mists of 
antiquity ; but the remains found in the neighbourhood from 
time to time prove that it was a Roman station) It has played a 
conspicuous part in the history of England. 

From Lancaster, the line approaches and passes through a 
portion of the romantic and beautiful lake districts of Cum- 
berland and Westmoreland. The first station is 

Hest Bank, 

a pretty watering-place on Morecombe Bay (see Mr. Bellew's 
Blount Tempest), with the Westmoreland and Cumberland 
mountains for a background, and the wide sands of the bay in 
front. 

Bolton-le- Sands is the next station ; whence the line passes 
to Carnforth, a place rapidly increasing in importance from its 
participation in the iron trade of the district, through bold and 
magnificent scenery. Drunal Mill Hole, a limestone cave, 800 



SHAP— PENRITH. 433 

feet deep, is two miles from the village. The line pursues its 
way past Burton and Holme stations to Milnthorpe, where it is 
upon the soil of Westmoreland. Now in cuttings, and now upon 
massive embankments, the rails pass through Oxenholme (see 
page 442), Grayrigg, and Low Gill Junction stations ; the 
junction is one with the Ingleton branch, which serves the 
towns of Sedburgh, Kirkby Lonsdale, and Ingleton. 

The railway now skirts the Dillicar Hills, and the scenery 
around increases in picturesque beauty and grandeur. At various 
points the windings of the silvery Lune are descried from the line, 
and soon afterwards the line passes through the great Dillicar 
cut. About twenty yards from the line stand the remains of 
the ancient Roman station of Castle Field, by which the moun- 
tain pass was of old defended. Near to is Borrow Bridge, a 
romantic spot, celebrated for trout fishing, the scenery about 
which is the most beautiful along the whole line ; the traveller 
seems to be hemmed in on all sides by stupendous hills. 

Passing Tebay Junction, the tourist proceeds along the Lime 
embankment (95 feet high), formed in the bed of the river, 
through the rich mineral district of Tebay Fell. 

Shap 

[Hotels : " Shap Spa," "Greyhound," and ■" King's Arms"] 
is the next station. It was from the granite quarries here that 
the stone used in constructing the Thames Embankment was 
obtained. Shap Abbey (anciently called Heppe) is situated on 
the banks of the Lowther, about a mile from the village. It was 
founded by Thomas, son of Gospatrick, in 1 1 50, and appears to 
have been an extensive structure, though only a tower of the 
church is now standing. There are some Druidical remains in 
the neighbourhood. At the wells is a mineral spring, whose 
water is of nearly similar quality to that at Leamington. Running 
over Shap summit, the highest point of the line is gained ; it is 
1,000 feet above the level of the sea, and 888 feet above the 
level of the line near Lancaster ; the train runs through a cutting 
in the hard rugged rock 60 feet deep. 

Near the next station, Clifton, a skirmish took place between 
the forces of the Pretender and the Duke of Cumberland in 1745. 
Over the Lowther embankment and viaduct the traveller passes 
from the county of Westmoreland into that of Cumberland, 
shortly after which the train halts at 

Penrith. 

[Hotels : "New Crown," " Family and Commercial," and '"George"], 

an ancient, clean, and neat town of 8,317 inhabitants. An army 
of 30,000 Scots laid Penrith waste in the reign of Edward III., 

________ ____ __ _, 



carrying away many of the townsfolk prisoners ; it was sacked 
again in the reign of Richard III. The town is overlooked by 
the noble ruins of an ancient castle, supposed to have been built 
by the Nevilles. The Duke of Gloucester, afterwards Richard 
III., resided there. In the contest between Charles I. and the 
Long Parliament it passed into the hands of the Commonwealth, 
by whose adherents it was dismantled. It afterwards became 
the property of the Dukes of Portland, who sold it in 1783, with 
Inglewood Forest and the honour of Penrith, to the Duke of 
Devonshire. A subterranean passage leads from the castle to 
Dockrey Hall, in the town, about three hundred yards 
distant. St. Andrew's Church, renewed in 1722, contains an 
old tower, and the portraits of Richard Plantagenet and his wife, 
in stained glass. In the churchyard is a singular monument of 
antiquity, called the Giant's Grave, the origin of which is in- 
volved in mystery. It consists of two stone pillars, standing at 
the opposite ends of a grave 1 5 feet asunder, and tapering from 
a circumference of 1 1 feet 6 inches at the base to 7 feet at the 
top. Between these are four other stones ; the whole are covered 
with Runic and other unintelligible carvings. Near them is another 
stone, called the Giant's Thumb. These remains are said to be 
a monument to the memory of Owen Ccesarius, a giant. 

From the Beacon Hill to the north of Penrith a magnificent 
view may be obtained. There are many antiquities in the neigh- 
bourhood of Penrith, dating, some of them, from pre-historic 
times. A short distance on the Westmoreland side of Eamont 
Bridge, in a field on the right of the road, about a mile and a 
half from Penrith, is a curious relic of antiquity, King Arthur's 
Round Table, a circular area about twenty yards in diameter, 
surrounded by a fosse and mound, with two approaches opposite 
each other conducting to the area. It is supposed to have been 
designed for the exercise of feats of chivalry, the embankment 
around serving for the spectators. Higher up the River Eamont 
is Mayborough, an area of nearly 100 yards in diameter, sur- 
rounded by a mound, composed of pebble stones elevated several 
feet. In the centre of the area is a large block of unhewn stone 
1 1. feet high, supposed to have been a place of Druidical Judi- 
cature. Six miles north-east of Penrith, on the summit of an 
eminence, near Little Salkeld, are the finest relics of antiquity in 
this vicinity, called Long Meg and her Daughters. The " Daughters" 
consist of a circle, 350 yards in circumference, formed of sixty- 
seven stones, some of them 10 feet high ; while Long Meg stands 
seventeen paces from the southern side of the circle, a square 
unhewn column of red freestone, 15 feet in circumference and 
iS feet high. Of course, the remains are of Druidical origin. 
A mile and a half from Penrith is Brougham Hall, the seat 



CARLISLE. 435 



of the late Lord Brougham and Vaux, near to which are the 
ruins of Brougham Castle. There are many other gentlemen's 
and noblemen's seats in the neighbourhood, including Lowther 
Castle, the residence of the Earl of Lonsdale, a grand pile of build- 
ings, built after designs by Smirke. 

From Penrith to Carlisle the line passes through a tame and 
uninteresting country ; the stations of Plumpton, Calthwaite, 
South waite, and Wreay lying between. 

Carlisle 

[Hotels: "County," "Bush," ''Coffee-House," "Crown" and Mitre ''] 
is an ancient city, pleasantly situated between the Eden, Caldew 
and the Peteril rivers. First occupied by the Britons (it is said 
that King Arthur held his court in this town), it afterwards be- 
came a Roman station, and was fortified by them about the time 
of Agricola. It was formerly the key to Scotland on this side of 
the island. Under the name of Luguvallhmi it was one of the 
chief stations on Hadrian's Wall. Carlisle Castle is said to have 
been erected by William Rufus. Carlisle was taken by David, 
King of Scots, and afterwards besieged unsuccessfully by Robert 
Bruce in 1312. It suffered severely during the Civil War, 
espousing the cause of Charles I. In 1745, it surrendered to 
Prince Charles Stuart, and on being retaken by the Duke of 
Cumberland, was the scene of great cruelty to the conquered 
party. Carlisle was made a bishopric by Henry I. in 1 133. The 
Cathedral, recently restored and embellished under the superin- 
tendence of Owen Jones, was originally part of a Norman priory, 
built on a crucifix plan, of red freestone. It contains a monu- 
ment to Dr. Paley, Archdeacon of Carlisle, and two or three 
fine brasses. There are many other churches in Carlisle. The 
court-houses were built at an expense of ;£ioo,ooo. A conside- 
rable portion of the old castle still remains ; this part includes 
the keep, a lofty and massive tower, in which there is a deep 
well. The whole has been restored and is a striking feature in 
the town. The castle is now used as a gaol. The apartments in 
which Mary Queen of Scots was confined on her flight to Eng- 
land after the battle of Langside are towards the northern part. 
There are several old-fashioned houses in the Market Place, from 
whence many of the streets converge. The cross, which dates 
from 1682, and the ancient Moot Hall, are worthy of inspection. 
The town is famous for the manufacture of cottons, ginghams, 
chintzes, checks, and hats. It is celebrated for its fancy biscuits, 
which are produced by machinery. The population is about 
31,049. 



436 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 



SECTION XLVII. 

PRESTON TO LYTHAM, BLACKPOOL, AND FLEETWOOD. 

F*ROM Preston (page 430) a branch line runs through a rich 
agricultural district, passing Lea Road and Salwick stations 
to 

Kirkham 

[Hotels : " Black Horse," " Railway," and " Gun Tavern "], 
a small town with a population of 3, 593? chiefly interested in 
the manufacture of cotton, linen, sacking, and sailcloth. There 
are the remains of an old Norman church. 

Passing Wray Green, Moss Side, and Warton stations, the 
tourist arrives by a branch railway of four miles at 

Lytham 

[Hotels : " Clifton Arms " and " Queen's "], 
a small port and watering-place, situated at the mouth of the 
Ribble, with a population of about 3,257, engaged in fishing. 
A pier of 900 feet long by about 20 feet broad, supported by 
cylindrical iron pillars, with an asphalted footway, has conferred 
an impetus to Lytham since 1865, the date of its openir-g. A 
line seven and a half miles long traverses the coast, passing 
Lytham Lighthouse, St. Annes-by-the-sea, and South Shore, to 

Blackpool 

[Hotels: " Imperial," " Bailey's," "Clifton Arms," " Pier," Lane End," 
" Beach," "Royal," "Victoria," and "Brewer's"], 

a rapidly increasing and much frequented bathing-place, situated 
along a range of cliffs in front of a fine sandy beach. A new 
pier and promenade was opened in 1863. Since then an ad- 
ditional pier has been erected, and extensive improvements in 
the town have been made, the most important being a public 
carriage drive and promenade, of about three miles in length, 
extending from South Shore to the "Gynn," and giving an un- 
interrupted view of the Irish Sea, the coast of North Wales, 
the Cumberland and Westmoreland hills, and, in fine weather, 
the Isle of Man. During the "season" steamers ply from the 
two piers to Llandudno, Southport, Morecambe, and Piel, for 
Barrow and the Lake District, the Isle of Man, and other places 
of resort. 

In 1 86 1 the population of Blackpool and the adjoining village 



R 



BLA CKPOOL—ELEE TWOOD— MORECAMBE. 437 

of South Shore was about 4,000; but in 1871 it had increased to 
upwards of 7,500. It is still being rapidly augmented. 

The encroachments of the sea at South Shore and Blackpool, 
have been prevented by solid walls of masonry, to form and pro- 
tect the carriage drive, but beyond this the sea gains fast upon 
the land. About a quarter of a mile from the shore is the 
Penny Stone, three miles and a quarter to the north of I lack- 
pool, on which there once stood a small inn, the only vestige 
left by the ocean of the village of Singleton Thorpe. Return- 
ing by a short branch to the Fleetwood and Preston direct 
railway, we pass through Poulton-le-Fylde to 

Fleetwood 

[Hotels: "Crown," "Royal," and "Victoria"], 
a new watering-place at the mouth of the " Wyre," commanding a 
very extensive and magnificent view of Morecambe Bay, and the 
hills in the Lake District. A daily steamboat connection with 
Belfast forms a favourite route for travellers to the north of Ire- 
land. Forty years ago Fleetwood was a rabbit warren. It is 
now a thriving seaport, with a fleet of upwards of one hundred 
fishing boats ; the vessels hailing from the port are valued at not 
less than a quarter of a million pounds sterling. The quay is 
1,300 feet long, and a large and commodious dock will be opened 
shortly. The population, at the last census 4,428, is now sup- 
posed to be nearly 6,000. Fleetwood is a military station, with 
accommodation for a thousand men. 



SECTION XLVIII. 

LANCASTER TO MORECAMBE, FURNESS ABBEY, Etc. 

A SHORT line of three miles' length conducts the tourist 
from Lancaster (page 431), through Bare Lane, to 

Morecambe 

[Hotels: "North-Western," "King's Arms," "West View," and 
"Queens "], 

from whence excellent views may be obtained of the bay and 
lake mountains of Cumberland and Westmoreland. There are 
two spacious promenades, together extending over two miles. 



BLA CKPO OL—FLEE TWO OD—MORE CA A/BE. 437 

of South Shore was about 4,000 ; but in 1871 it had increased to 
upwards of 7,500. It is still being rapidly augmented. 

The encroachments of the sea at South Shore and Blackpool, 
have been prevented by solid walls of masonry, to form and pro- 
tect the carriage drive, but beyond this the sea gains fast upon 
the land. About a quarter of a mile from the shore is the 
Penny Stone, three miles and a quarter to the north of Black- 
pool, on which there once stood a small inn, the only vestige 
left by the ocean of the village of Singleton Thorpe. Return- 
ing by a short branch to the Fleetwood and Preston direct 
railway, we pass through Poulton-le-Fylde to 

Fleetwood 

[Hotels: "Crown," "Royal," and "Victoria"], 
a new watering-place at the mouth of the " Wyre," commanding a 
very extensive and magnificent view of Morecambe Bay, and the 
hills in the Lake District. A daily steamboat connection with 
Belfast forms a favourite route for travellers to the north of Ire- 
land. Forty years ago Fleetwood was a rabbit warren. It is 
now a thriving seaport, with a fleet of upwards of one hundred 
fishing boats ; the vessels hailing from the port are valued at not 
less than a quarter of a million pounds sterling. The quay is 
1,300 feet long, and a large and commodious dock will be opened 
shortly. The population, at the last census 4,428, is now sup- 
posed to be nearly 6,000. Fleetwood is a military station, with 
accommodation for a thousand men. 



SECTION XLVIII. 

LANCASTER TO MORECAMBE, FURNESS ABBEY, Etc. 

A SHORT line of three miles' length conducts the tourist 
from Lancaster (page 431), through Bare Lane, to 

Morecambe 

[Hotels: "North-Western," "King's Arms," "West View," and 
"Queens "], 

from whence excellent views may be obtained of the bay and 
lake mountains of Cumberland and Westmoreland. There are 
two spacious promenades, together extending over two miles. 



438 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

At the end of an excellent pier is a good aquarium. The beauti- 
ful sands furnish splendid bathing facilities . 

Morecambe Bay is a fine sheet of water, eight or ten miles 
wide when the tide is up ; but twice a day, at low tide, the sands, 
to the extent of several miles, are left perfectly dry, except in 
the channel of the rivers Kent and Leven, and may be crossed 
by vehicles of every description. Guides, employed by Govern- 
ment, are stationed at the places where the rivers flow, to 
conduct travellers across in safety. On the opposite side is 
South or Lower Furness, where the beautiful remains of the 
abbey may be seen. In the season steamers sail from More- 
cambe to Piel. 

Returning from Morecambe, another line rejoins the main line 
at Hest Bank (page 424). Passing Bolton-le- Sands, and again leav- 
ing the main line at Carnforth junction, we travel by the " over- 
sands" route, to Furness, "the key to the Lakes." Crossing 
the river Kent, we pass Silverdale and Arnside, obtaining from 
the latter station a fine view of the estuary of the Kent, with the 
tops of the Westmoreland mountains in the distance. Crossing 
a viaduct over the estuary, with the waves of the sea lashing its 
iron pillars and embankment, we reach the fashionable watering- 
place of 

Grange, 

very picturesquely situated at the mouth of the Kent, on the 
Furness side of Morecambe Bay. Its climate is said to resemble 
Matlock, Buxton, and Torquay; while the vicinity of Winder- 
mere and Arnside enables tourists to visit the numerous objects 
of interest in this delightful neighbourhood. There is a large 
hotel in the village, while a causeway connects it with Holme 
Island, which is well worthy of a visit. Castle Head, once a 
Roman station, is within easy walking distance, and an omnibus 
runs daily to Newby Bridge and Lakeside. The houses and 
terraced gardens of Grange, nestling around its pretty Gothic 
church, form a charming panorama. 

Kents Bank, a mile further on our route, from whence the huge 
unwieldy form of Humphrey Head is visible, and Cark (three miles 
from Kents Bank), the station for Flookburgh and Cartmel, are 
passed ; and crossing another viaduct over an inlet of Morecambe 
Bay, we reach 

[ inversion 

[Hotels : "Sun," "Braddyll's Arms," and "Temperance"], 
a town and port with a population of 9,186 souls, supposed to 
derive its name from Ulph, a Saxon lord of the olden time. Its 
houses, of gray stone, are snugly ensconced in the slopes or at 



the base of the hills which protect the town from the north and 
east winds ; and it contains two churches, besides Independent, 
Wesleyan, and Roman Catholic chapels. St. Mary's Church, the 
chief religious edifice, has an old Norman door, and several 
stained glass windows ; it was rebuilt in 1804. A model cottage 
hospital, with fourteen beds, was erected in 1873. The Hill of 
Hoad, on which stands a monument to Sir John Barrow, Bart. , 
formerly Secretary to the Admiralty, is a prominent object ; and 
pleasant excursions may be made to various places of interest 
in the neighbourhood. Among these are Chapel Island, Carris- 
head Priory, Swarthmoor Hall (formerly the residence of George 
Fox, the founder of the Society of Friends), the first meeting 
house built by him (where is preserved his Bible), the charming 
village of Bardsea, etc. A branch line runs from Ulverston to 
Windermere. 

Leaving Ulverston, the line passes the village of Pennington, 
where a large mound, called Ella Barrow, is supposed to be 
an ancient Saxon tumulus ; while near, on the hillside, are the 
remains of a British or Saxon fortification. Lindal, the next 
station, is at the entrance to the mining district of Furness, 
whose beds of iron ore yield 600,000 tons annually. Dalton, 
the ancient capital of Furness, was formerly a place of impor- 
tance, and is now increasing. This is owing to the neighbour- 
hood of 

Furness Abbey. 

Among the vast number of monastic ruins in the kingdom 
there are few more imposing in their appearance, or affecting in 
their decay, than this noble ecclesiastical edifice. There is an 
admirably-conducted hotel near the station— a modern building, 
but fitted up inside to harmonize with the antiquity of the scene. 
Leaving the station, the tourist is but a few paces from the abbot's 
private chapel, 48 feet by 20 feet. Over the doorway is a pretty 
niche for a statue, with a trefoil head ; but passing on farther 
and coming to a turnstile, a full view of the church is presented. 
This is a cruciform building, with various subdivisions, 300 feet in 
depth and 65 in breadth — " a noble wreck, in ruinous perfection," 
with its richly ornamented doorways, short but beautifully 
moulded pillars, and groined arches. Lichens of various hues 
cover the walls, besides ivy, grass, and ferns, adding picturesque - 
ness to the venerable pile. The abbey was founded in n'27, 
by Stephen, Earl of Moreton and Boulogne, afterwards king. 
On the outside of the eastern window of the chancel, supporting 
the mouldings at each side, are two crowned heads, representing 
Stephen and his wife, Maude For further details, we must 
refer the tourist to Shaw's Shilling Guide to the district. 



MAfe 




FUR NESS ABBEY— PI EL. 



441 




Chapter House, Furness Abbey. 

At Furness is a kind of "four-cross roads" junction of the 
railway system. We have travelled thus far by the first " road." 
A second runs to 

Piel, 

from whence an excellent view is obtained ot the gloomy 
ruins of the pile of Fouldrey. The walls of this ancient strong- 
hold exhibit few traces of exterior ornament. They enclose a 
large space surrounded by a moat, but the action of the waves has 
eaten away the hill, on which the structure stands, to the very base 



442 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

of the building. It is in the Anglo-Norman style, and has no archi- 
tectural beauties ; but hanging, as it does, over the waters, with its 
massive battlements, it is an impressive sight. The castle formerly 
belonged to the Abbots of Furness. It was at Piel that Lambert 
Simnel, who personated the young prince murdered in the tower 
by Richard III., landed, in the reign of Henry VII. Steamers 
run during the season from the pier at Roe Island to Fleetwood 
and Morecambe and to the Isle of Man. 
Another branch runs to 

Barrow-in-Furness 

[Ixxs ; " Ro} T al Oak/' and " Red Lion"], 
a thriving corporate town of upwards of 40,000 inhabitants, 
situated on the Barrow Rock, but yesterday reclaimed from the 
sea ; while a fourth runs along the coast to Whitehaven, described 
in page 451. 



SECTION XLIX. 

OXENHOLME JUNCTION TO WINDERMERE. 

THE rail from Oxenholme Junction to Windermere affords an 
easy and delightful means of access to the lake district, from 
the London and North- Western system of railways. From the 
platform of Oxenholme station a fine view is obtained of 

Kendal 

[Hotels : " King's Arms," " Commercial Inn," and " Crown "], 
the largest town in Westmoreland, containing a population of 
13,446, chiefly engaged in the carpet, woollen, linsey, worsted, 
clog, and other minor works. The woollen manufacture was 
founded here by some Flemish weavers, who settled in Kendal 
early in the fourteenth century at the invitation of Edward III. 

The barony of Kendal was granted by the Conqueror to one of 
his followers, Ivo de Taillebois ; it now belongs in part to the Earl 
of Lonsdale and in part to the Hon. Mrs. Howard. The 
church of Holy Trinity had four chantries, and contains many 
tombs and brasses, besides curious inscriptions. The ruins of an 
old castle, in which Queen Catherine Parr, who survived Henry 
VIII. , was bom, crown the summit of a steep elevation on the 
east of the town. 



WINDERMERE— TROUTBECK— THE LAKES. 443 

Passing Burneside and Staveley stations, a short distance beyond 
the latter of which, from Orrest Head, the grandest and most 
extended view of the lake is obtained, we reach the town of 

Windermere, 

where the tourist will be able to rest and refresh himself after his 
journey, at a commodious hotel, which 

" Overlooks the bed of the Windermere, 
Like a vast river, stretching in the sun. 
With exultation here the tourist sees 
Lake, islands, promontories, gleaming bays, 
An universe of Nature's fairest forms, 
Proudly revealed, with instantaneous burst, 
Magnificent, and beautiful, and gay." 

Before the introduction of the railway into the district, there 
was not a house on the site of this flourishing village. Thanks, 
however, to the beauties of the spot, numerous houses have sprung 
up in the parish, which includes within its bounds the hamlets of 
Applethwaite and Troutbeck, and portions of Ambleside and 
Underwelbeck. The population in 187 1 was 4,787. The church, 
a modern edifice, has been twice enlarged to meet the require- 
ments of the inhabitants ; and there is a good circulating library 
and other conveniences in the place. 

From the summit of the hill behind the hotel, a magnificent 
view of the surrounding country may be obtained. The walks 
in the neighbourhood are numerous and pleasant ; one of the 
best of them leads, through scenery of the finest description, to 

Troutbeck, 

a hamlet somewhat remarkable for its cottage architecture. The 
signboard of its inn ("The Mortal Man") is quite a curiosity 
It depicts the portraits of two well-known characters in the vale 
— one of them rubicund and jolly, with a nose giving unmistake- 
able evidence of a love for the bottle ; the other with a visage 
remarkable for the longitude of its outline, and its cadaverous 
hue. Beneath are the lines — 

" ' Oh ! mortal man, that liv'st on bread, 
How comes thy nose to be so red ? ' 
' Thou silly ass, that looks so pale, 
It is with drinking Birkett's ale.' " 

In describing a tour through the Lake district, we shall assume 
that the traveller starts on his journey on a kke steamer from the 
southern extremity of the lake, at Lake Side. 

The Lakes. 

The exquisite beauty of this district, its variety of colouring, 
and its endless charms, have been so often described by the 
eloquence of the poets of the Lake school, not to speak of the 



444 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE, 

host of less distinguished admirers whom the attractions of the 
place have inspired, that we shall merely give the outlines of the 
several routes, and enumerate the best excursions to be made from 
the different stand-points. For a descriptive guide to the Lakes 
we advise the tourist to provide himself with Shaw's Shilling 
Guide to the English Lakes, and pocket editions of Wordsworth, 
Wilson, Coleridge, and Southey. There is not a spot of 
interest in the district which has not its poetic " Guide from 
the pen of one of those writers, or in the poetic prose of De 
Quincey. If any adequate idea be gained from books of this 
lovely scenery, it will only be from the inspired outpourings of 
those lovers of nature. Windermere is only a mile in breadth, 
and, being eleven in length, has many features of a broad river. 
It is fed by numerous streams, and is in many places upwards of 
forty fathoms deep. The first few miles after leaving the Lake 
Side pi-er are the least beautiful of the journey. Then the steamer 
approaches the island of Silver Holme, and soon after on the 
same side, Gras Holme and Ling Holme. 

Among the stately mansions decorating the hill-sides on either 
hand, we must call the attention of the tourist to Storr's Hall. 
It occupies a peninsular rising ground, on the right hand side, 
and overlooking, as it does, the upper and lower portions of the 
lake, which narrows considerably, is the most enviable residence 
imaginable. We now pass Berkshire Island, and reach the 
Ferry Hotel. Rounding the point on which the hotel stands, we 
are in the midst of a cluster of islands. Of these Belle Isle, or 
Cunven's Island, is the largest. On the west of this are the Lily 
of the Valley Islands, on which that sweet flower grows wild in 
great luxuriance. After this the lake expands once more, and 
the character of scenery becomes very different. Along the 
western side a range of rocky hills (or fells, as they are called) 
overhangs the water, varied by ravines, where 
" The primrose pale, and violet flower, 
Find in each cliff a narrow bower." 

Away on the right-hand shore is the neat village of 
Bowness 

[Hotels : " Royal," " Old England," and " Crown "]. 
It is about a mile and a half from Windermere railway station, 
and is situate 

" Midway on long Winander's eastern shore, 
Within the crescent of a pleasant bay ; " 
while due north, beyond Ambleside, rise the tall heads of Wans - 
fell and Loughriggfell, in bold grandeur of outline. The steamer 
now enters Bowness Bay. We should recommend the tourist to 
make Bowness his head-quarters for a day or two, and to put up 
at one of the comfortable hotels at that village, picturesquely 
built on the sloping margin of the bay. Here is a very romantic 



BOWNESS— AMBLESIDE. 445 

old church, the oldest in the country, next to Grasmere. It 
has a large square tower, and a fine chancel window with stained 
glass, brought from Furness Abbey. 

Bowness is centrally situated for excursions, being but six 
miles from Ambleside, eight from Kendal, and two from the 
Windermere railway station. The first excursion we should 
advise would be a row up to Ambleside and back, to see the 
upper portion of the lake. Leaving Bowness the entire northern 
extent of the lake is visible. In front are three small islands ; on 
the left, Rayrigg Bank, with Windermere Hotel, near the summit 
of the hill ; and Rayrigg House at the base, near the water's 
edge. In this house William Wilberforce, the statesman and 
philanthropist, of negro emancipation celebrity, used to reside. 
On the other side is the Vale of Troutbeck, between Wansfell 
Pike and the High Street Range. Along these mountains runs a 
Roman road, in very good preservation. Hen Holme, the first 
of the three islands above mentioned, is now reached, then Lady 
Holme, and Rough Holme. High Wray, on the left-hand shore, 
comes next in sight. On the opposite shore is Calgarth Hall, 
and about two miles farther Low Wood Inn. The white cross 
on the promontory, near the inn, was erected to commemorate 
the death of a young man who accidentally lost his life at this 
spot. A short distance to the north of the inn, Dove's Nest is 
seen to peep out of its seclusion. Here resided the gifted poetess, 
Mrs. Hemans, and here she planted the rose-tree to which the 
admirers of her works pay homage. On the opposite shore is 
Wray Castle, one of the finest of the many fine seats that stud 
the hills on either side of the lake. Two miles nearer to Water- 
head, on the right side, is W r ansfell Holme, almost rivalling it in 
picturesqueness of situation. Still another villa to be noticed is 
Bratha Hall, overlooking the water-lily covered-surface of Pull 
Bay. Close to Rydal Mount, at one time the residence of the poet 
Wordsworth, is the pretty village of 

Ambleside. 

[Hotels : " Salutation/' " Queens," " Low Wood." and " Commercial."] 
The tourist is now at Waterhead. Ambleside is situated at 
the base of Wansfell, on the site of an ancient Roman station. 
The vale which it occupies is girt round on all sides, save where 
it opens towards the lake. The most striking building is St. 
Mary's Church, situated in the centre of the valley, not far from 
Harriet Martineau's residence. It has three stained-glass win- 
dows, one of which was presented to the church by some American 
and English friends of Wordsworth. 

While at Ambleside the tourist can visit the Stock Ghyll Force 
Waterfall, about a quarter of a mile from the town. The path 



446 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

leads through a densely-wooded mountain gorge, watered by an 
impetuous rivulet, which, dashing— 

"Amid the shaggy rocks, 

Now flashes o'er the scatter'd fragments, now 

Aslant the hollow channel rapid darts ; 

And falling fast from gradual slope to slope, 

With wild infracted course and lessen'd roar, 

It gains a safer bed, and steals at last 

Along the mazes of the quiet vale." 

Following the course of this stream the fall suddenly bursts on 
the view, the rugged boulders, jutting through the waters bound- 
ing over the cliff, contrast finely with the sheen of the foaming 
torrent. There are three ledges of rocks, over which the water 
pours successively, thus forming three falls. The full height of 
the " Force " is seventy feet. The water in the deep basin which 
the falling volume has formed at the bottom is beautifully clear, 
and it is a question whether, on the whole, the miniature cataract 
is not a prettier sight when comparatively tame than when heavy 
rains have increased the bulk of the waters, but marred their 
transparency. 

Returning to Bowness, either by boat or road, the tourist 
should proceed to the "station" above the Ferry Inn. It ad- 
mirably fulfils the purpose for which it was erected — that of 
commanding views of the surrounding district. The approach is 
by a meandering, densely-shaded path, about a quarter of a mile 
from the inn. The tower has but one large room, with five win- 
dows, each overlooking a different prospect. A book is kept for 
visitors to enter their names, and many royal signatures may be 
seen in it. Scandal Beck is not quite half a mile from Ambleside, 
on the Keswick road, and to Rydal Waterfalls but two and a 
half miles ; but we should advise the tourist to postpone his visit 
to this poetic region until he is returning from an excursion round 
by Langdale and Grasmere, which we shall now briefly describe. 
Crossing the ferry, he will, by car, traverse the road leading to 
Esthwaite Water to Hawkshead. Having arrived at the top of 
High Cross (about four miles from the ferry), a most extensive 
prospect is had of Coniston Vale and Water, the Old Man, 
Wether-lamb, and Tilberthwaite mountains ; while, looking back 
in the direction from which he has come, the tourist will see 
Windermere, the islands, and the mountains fringing the eastern 
shore. 

Having feasted the eyes on these landscapes, he may descend 
into the valley to Waterhead Inn, where a boat can be pro- 
cured for a row down two miles of the lake. There is a steam 
gondola that makes a circuit of the lake twice daily, but the 
scenery of its lower portion is hardly worth viewing in com- 
parison with what will be seen ere we bring him again to his 
hotel. Returning to Waterhead, he can visit the neighbouring 



AMBLESIDE. 447 



copper mines, if his taste lies in that way, or ascend the Old Man 
Mountain. This feat may be accomplished in about an hour and 
a half, and, allowing one hour for the descent, more time is not 
occupied than will be amply compensated for by the views afforded 
from the summit. 

The Tilberthwaite road should now be taken. This will 
conduct the tourist to Skelwith Bridge. A walk of a few 
hundred yards up the river brings him to Skelwith Force, 
returning from which he will resume his seat on the car, and 
proceed up Colwith, and over to Little Langdale (two and a 
half miles from Skelwith Bridge.). At the top of Little Lang- 
dale, the road on the right of Wrynose, ascending Lingmoor, must 
be taken. It is very steep, and visitors must walk up ; but what 
a lovely spot greets the admiring gaze ! The romantic seclusion 
of this lake is ever charming— 

" For him who lonely loves 
To seek the distant hills, and there converse 
With Nature." 

Ascending the ridge of the hill, Great Langdale lies beneath, 
with the ruggedly precipitous Pikes in front — a pass equal to any 
in the kingdom. Descending into the valley to the foot of the 
Pikes, and leaving the pass into Borrowdale on his left, the 
tourist can proceeed to Dungeon Ghyll Waterfall, formed by 
the mountain stream flowing down between Harrison Stickle and 
the Pike of Stickle, one of which may be ascended. 

If the tourist has lingered amid the charms of the different 
scenes through which we have brought him up to this, it may 
be too late in the day to take the circuit of Elterwater, Gras- 
mere, and Rydal Mount. In such a case, he will return direct 
by Clappersgate, and take up the route on the following day. 
His road lies along the dale to Elterwater. From this he takes 
the way leading over Redbank, from Chapel Stile. The scenery 
becomes much grander as the hill is surmounted. On the right 
are seen Loughrigg Farm and Grasmere Vale. On the north, or 
left hand, lie Easdale and Helm brag, overhanging the village, 
and in front is the glassy lake. Taking the road along the 
eastern side of the hill, he skirts Grasmere Lake and village, 
where Wordsworth and Coleridge are buried, and approaches 
Rydal. In the grounds of Rydal Hall are two waterfalls, and 
in the immediate vicinity is Rydal Mount, the residence of Words- 
worth, These two spots need no description from our pan, but 
the tourist will do well to compare the poet's word-painting with 
the reality. Ambleside is but two miles from this spot and 
Bowness. The entire distance of the circuit is about twenty-five 
miles. 



448 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

Next day may be devoted to an excursion to Patterdale, by 
coach ; thence by steam round the shores of 
Ullswater. 

This is the second largest of the English lakes, and its scenery, 
from Patterdale to Lyulph's Tower, about half-way up on the left- 
hand shore, is not surpassed by any of the other lakes. From 
Patterdale the ascent of Helvellyn is most conveniently made. 
It is but five miles and a half to the summit, a great portion of 
which distance may be ridden. The tourist next proceeds to 
Keswick 

[Hotels : " Royal Oak," " Station/' and " Queen's Head "J, 
which he will do well to make his head-quarters for a few days. 
Coaches ply regularly between Windermere, Ambleside, and Kes- 
wick, performing the journey in two hours and a quarter. Keswick 
is a clean little market town, most delightfully situated at the north 
end of Derwentwater. This lake is three miles long, and a mile and 
a half broad midway between either end. It contains numerous 
islands, amongst which is a floating island, which appears and dis- 
appears at intervals. The principal of the other islands are 
Lord's, St. Herbert's, Vicar's, and Ramp's Holme. Derwent- 
water has more wild magnificence — often opproaching sublimity 
— than any of the other lakes. Rowing on its limpid waters, 
and skirting the shores of its many islets, one feels that — 
"The whole might seem 
The scenery of a fairy dream." 

The walks, too, along the hill-sides bordering the lake, are parti- 
cularly fine from a scenic point of view. 

Ere taking the tourist, however, on any excursion, we must 
call his attention to the museum at Keswick, where a very accu- 
rate model of the Lake district is exhibited, and to Greta Hall, 
the former residence of Southey. About a mile from the town, 
on the south, is Castlerigg, the summit from which Gray, looking 
back on the views of Derwentwater and Bassenthwaite, was im- 
pelled to exclaim that he wished he could go back again. In the 
same vicinity are the remains of a Druidical circle. 

Having made the circuit of the lake by water, the tourist 
should proceed to visit Lodore and Borrowdale, via Castle Heads 
and the Walla and Falcon Crags. Borrow House, in the grounds, 
of which the cascade is situated, is about two miles from Keswick. 
Visitors are readily admitted on application to the lodge. The 
fall is 124 feet high. From this the tourist can make a circuit, 
by the village of Watendlath, from which splendid views are had 
of the lake and of Skiddaw, regaining the Borrowdale road a 
little south of the Bowder Stone, which can be seen as he returns 
towards Lodore ; or the direct road may be followed, by which 



The Lodore Cascade 
is but a mile distant. A description of this fall is hardly 
necessary ; we could only copy Southey's account of how the 
waters 

" Come down at Lodore." 

Two miles from the Cascade stands the Bowden Slone. The 
summit of this huge mass of stone, which weighs upwards of 
1,900 tons is reached by a ladder. The clamberer is rewarded 
by a fine view of the dale and the crag on the opposite side of 
the river, called Castle Crag, because once fortified by the Romans. 
The road now leads back by Grange and the western side of tne 
lake, the whole distance being about twelve miles. The tourist 
can then either ascend Skiddaw (io| miles), or drive to Bas- 
senthwaite Water. The drive round the lake from Keswick is 
eighteen miles ; but if time be an object, the tourist can drive to 
Ouse Bridge, and return by train from Bassenthwaite station. 
This lake commands the best aspect of Skiddaw that can be 
obtained, and affords great opportunities for angling. 

The following day may be agreeably spent in a trip into 

St. John's Vale. 

The road to Threlkeld (four miles distant), by the river Greta, 
which flows beneath Skiddaw and Saddleback, is first taken. 
Near the village a branch road turns off to the right by the 
banks of another stream, variously called the Naddle Beck and 
St. John's Beck. This route is interesting as being the same 
which Arthur is made to traverse in Scott's Bridal of Trier- 
main : — 

" With toil the king his way pursued, 
By lonely Threlkeld's waste and wood, 
Till on his course obliquely shone 
The narrow valley of St. John." 

The great Dodd, rising on the right to 2,804 feet, and Nath- 
dale Fell on the left, with Saddleback behind, as he wended his 
way along, are the hills spoken of in the poem : — 

" Paled in by many a lofty hill, 

The narrow dale lay smooth and still, 
And, down its verdant bosom led, 
A winding brooklet found its bed ; 
But midmost of the vale a mound 
Arose, with airy turrets crown'd, 
Buttress and rampires circling bound, 
And mighty keep and tower." 

The mass of rock, mistaken by Arthur for a " fairy fortress," 
stands on the great Dodd side (east) of the vale, opposite to St. 
John's Chapel. A strange peculiarity about the situation of the 

29 



450 LONDON AXD NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

chapel is that, notwithstanding the fact that it occupies a lofty 
site, it is unbrightened by the sun's rays during three months of 
the year. If time permit the drive may be prolonged to Thirl- 
mere Lake, whence the road, via WatendlaSi, can be taken for 
the return journey. Or the tourist might stay at the Borrowdale 
Hotel for the night, and proceed in the morning to Buttermere, 
Honister Crag, and Scale Force. From the hotel the road lies 
southward for a mile and a half to Rosthwaite, about a mile 
beyond which, near Seatoller demesne, famous for its plumbago 
mine, a road to the left leads to Wast Water. Keeping, how- 
ever, to the right, the steep way leading over Buttermere Hause 
(i,ioofeet) must be ascended. The prospect from the summit 
is most extensive, stretching backward over Borrowdale to 
Helveliyn, and in front commanding a fine view of the valley in 
which lie Buttermere and Crummock Water. As the road 
descends to Buttermere Dale, an almost perpendicular wall rises 
on the left to the height of 1,500 feet. This is Honister Crag. 
The face of this mighty crag has storey upon storey of chambers 
cat into its solid depth, whence roofing-slates are excavated. 
The road now winds along over the eastern shore of the lake to 
Hasness, affording ample time to admire the mountain summits 
on the opposite shore. Of these the principal are the High Stacks, 
High Crag, High Style, and Red Pike. We now reach the 
village of 

Buttermere. 

[Ixxs : ft Fish " and " Victoria."] 
"The waters of the lake,'"' says De Quincey, "are deep and 
sullen, and the Carren mountains, by excluding the sun from 
much of its daily course, strengthen the gloomy expression. At 
the foot of this lake lie a few unornamented fields, through which 
rolls a little brook, connecting it with the larger lake of Crum- 
mock." A short distance across the brook falls one of the 
highest cascades in the Lake District — Scale Force ; but as the 
road is a bad one, the better way of visiting it is to proceed to 
Scale Flill Inn, four miles farther on the east side of Crummock, 
which will land the tourist within half a mile of the fall. 



SECTION L. 

PENRITH TO WHITEHAVEN AND MARYPORT. 

TAKING his departure from Penrith, the tourist first passes 
through the stations of Blencow and Penruddock, to 
Troutbeck, whence conveyances start for Ullswater, through the 
wild valley of the Matterdale. Passing Threlkeld, he arrives 
at the metropolis of the lake district, 

Keswick, 

already described on page 448. Passing through a beautiful 
valley, the line next comes to the station of Braithwaite, and, 
traversing the length of Bassenthwaite Water, arrives at a station 
of the same name. Passing Embleton, the tourist reaches 

Cockermouth. 

Hotels : " Globe," " Sun," and " Appletree."] 
Cockermouth (i.e. the mouth of the Cocker, a small river, at 
whose junction with the Derwent the town is situated) is a 
place of some antiquity, but principally interesting to the lover 
of poetry as being the birthplace of Wordsworth. The castle, 
which stands on the east bank of the river, was built soon after 
the advent of William I., but was dismantled by Cromwell's 
followers. A portion of the building is still habitable, and 
occasionally occupied by Lord Leconfield, the lord of the 
manor. Thence the route lies through the stations of Brigham, 
Broughton Cross, Marron, the junction for Cleaton and Egre- 
mont, Camerton, and Workington Bridge, to 

Workington 

[Hotels : • Railway Station," "Green Dragon" "and " New Crown"], 

a coal port and market town, with a population of 7,979, 
situated on the south bank of the Derwent, near its mouth. 
It has a good harbour and a considerable trade, due to the 
mining industries of the neighbourhood. ' The salmon fishery is 
important. Here is an old church, with a fine tower, and many 
municipal buildings and offices. On the east side of the town 
is Workington Hall, belonging to the Curwen family, beauti- 
fully situated on an elevation near the banks of the Derwent. 
It is a large quadrangular structure of considerable antiquity. 
Mary Queen of Scots took refuge here on landing in England, 
after the battle of Langside ; and the apartment which she 



occupied is pointed out to visitors as the Queen's Chamber. 
Taking a southern turn, the line traverses a district rich in mineral 
wealth, passing through Harrington and Part on, to 

Whitehaven 

[Hotels : " Globe," t{ Golden Lion," "Albion," " Black Lion," and 
" Indian King"], 

a considerable market town and seaport, situated on a bold 
rocky shore at the entrance of the Sohvay Frith, about three 
miles north of the lofty promontory of St. Bees Head. The 
town is built at the north end of the vale of St. Bees. It has a 
population of 18,451, engaged in the coal trade and herring fishery. 
In 1566 six fishermen's huts were the only human habitations on 
the site of this prosperous town. Since that time the rise of the 
town has been very rapid, due in a large measure to the liberality 
and enterprise of the Lowther family, the lords of the manor, 
and the valuable layers of coal beneath it. The coal measures 
form a thin strip round the coast past Workington and Mary- 
port. The mines are worked by deep shafts a quarter of a 
mile down, close to the edge of the sea, under which they run 
more than two miles. Some of them are eight or ten feet thick 
with good coal. As much as 1,500 tons is frequently taken to the 
shore for exportation in one day. The sea sometimes bursts into the 
mines, causing considerable loss to property. Steam-engines 
of great power keep the mines clear of water. 

The harbour is spacious and commodious ; as many as two hun- 
dred vessels belonging to the harbour trade with the home ports, 
America, West Indies, and the Baltic, in addition to nearly the 
same number engaged in the coal trade. The bay and harbour 
are defended by batteries, now falling into decay, but once of 
considerable strength in consequence of the alarm caused when 
Paul Jones descended, during the American war, upon the 
harbour and spiked the guns of the fort, setting fire to three 
vessels lying near. Paul Jones served an apprenticeship in 
Whitehaven. From Workington the line runs north by the 
sea-coast, through the small bathing-place of Flimby, to 

Maryport 

[Hotels : " Golden Lion," " Senhouse Arms," and " Star "], 
also a busy coal-exporting seaport, with a population of 7,443. 
Most of the trade is done with Ireland ; the town is rapidly 
increasing, owing to the convenience afforded by the strong 
piers and quays erected along the banks of the Ellen, on whose 
shore it is situated. A lighthouse secures the navigation. A 
line of railway runs from Maryport to Carlisle, by an interesting 
and picturesque route. 



SOUTH WALES. 



SECTION LI. 

SHREWSBURY TO SWANSEA AND PEMBROKE. 

HAVING thus conducted the tourist through that portion of 
England, traversed by the North- Western line and its 
branches, we will now retrace our steps, ere we enter the * ' land 
o' cakes," and describe the districts of South Wales, hitherto 
unvisited. Starting from Shrewsbury, the line runs along the 
Welsh border as far as Craven Arms (see page 420), from whence 
the journey lies through very beautiful scenery. Leaving Craven 
Arms, the stations are Broome, Hopton Heath, Bucknell, and 

Knighton 

[Hotels : " Central Wales " and " Norton Arms'.'], 
which derives its Welsh name (Tref-y-Clawdd) from its situation 
on the earthen rampart raised by Offa as a separation between 
the British and the Saxons, called Offa's Dyke, which may still 
be traced for some distance. We next pass Knucklas, Llan- 
gunllo, Llanbister Road, Dolau, Penybont, and reach 

Llandrindod 

[Hotels : " Pumphouse," " Rockhouse," and " Llanerch Inn "], 
an ancient village, its name signifying "the Church of the 
Trinity," and now a rising watering-place, much frequented for 
its sulphur and chalybeate springs, which were known so far 
back as the year 1670. The train next arrives at 

Builth Road, 

where a junction is effected with the Mid-Y\ T ales Railway (a line 
extending from Llanidloes and Newbridge on the Wye, to Builth, 



454 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

Brecon, and Neath) ; then, crossing the river Wye, the tourist 
passes Cilmery, Garth, Llangammarch, Llanwrtyd Wells, and 
Cynghordy, and reaches 

Llandovery 

[Hotels : " Castle," " Clarence," and " Lamb "], 
whose population of about 1,900 are chiefly engaged in the 
manufacture of woollen stockings. It is a straggling town, 
situated at the head of the Vale of Towey, on the River Brau, 
and surrounded by wild and barren hills. On the west bank of 
the river are the ruins of a castle. From Llandovery the route is 
by the Vale of Towey, passing through the stations of Llanwrda, 
Llangadock, Glanrhyd, and Talley Road, to 

Llandilo or Llandilofawr 

[Hotel : ' ' Cawdor Arms "], 
a beautifully situated town on the banks of the River Towy, 
with 5,440 inhabitants. The river abounds with salmon, trout, 
and eels, and is here crossed by a handsome marble bridge. At 
Llandilo we break off for Swansea, passing by Derwydd Road, 
Llandebie, Pantyffynnon, Pontardulais, where a branch line 
serves the prosperous port of Llanelly, at a length of seven miles, 
and a number of minor stations to 

Swansea. 

[Hotels : " Mackworth Arms," " Castle," and u Cameron Arms."] 
Swansea (population 57,000) is the principal seat of the copper 
trade, though the neighbouring soil does not contain that mineral. 
The approach by night is exceedingly imposing, owing to the 
appearance of the sky illuminated with the glare of the copper 
furnaces. The ore is brought to Swansea to be fluxed, not only 
from Cornwall, but even from America and Australia, the abun- 
dance of coal in the neighbourhood facilitating the various pro- 
cesses of calcining and refining. 

Previous to the year 1720 the Cornish miners directed their 
exertions to the acquisition of tin only ; but a copper refinery 
being established in Swansea in that year, the hitherto neglected 
copper ore, which was thrown aside as dross, began to be utilized, 
and Swansea now refines some 20,000 tons yearly. The fumes 
from the works prejudicially affected the pasturage in the vicinity, 
but an invention has lately been patented by Mr. Vivian, by which 
the copper smoke can be condensed to sulphuric acid and utilized 
for manure. The largest of the works, of which there are eight, 
employs about 550 men. 

The harbour is an artificial one, and is now supplemented by 
floating docks, as the ebb tide leaves it almost dry. The Post 



SWANSEA— CAERMAR THEN. 455 

Office, beneath the large quadrangular tower of the old Norman 
Castle, the Church of St. Mary, the Royal Institution of South 
Wales, with its handsome Ionic portico and efficient museum 
and library, and an extensive Market House, are the most note- 
worthy buildings. The town is much frequented on account of 
its mineral spring. Gower, the friend and brother poet of Chaucer, 
and Beau Nash, were natives of Swansea. 

Anthraqite, or smokeless coal, is abundant in this district. 
Tin, ziuc, and pottery works, are also to be found in Swansea ; 
and the bay is so beautiful as to have earned the appellation of 
a "miniature Naples." The peninsula on which Swansea 
is situated terminates on the south-west in Worms Head, so 
called from the shape of the cliffs of which it is composed. 
These run into the sea for a distance of three-quarters of a 
mile, with an elevated extremity about 250 feet in height, re- 
sembling a sea-serpent's head. This is burrowed through by 
an enormous cave, and in boisterous weather a grand effect on 
eye and ear is produced. 

The peninsula, of which Worms Head forms a part, between 
Caermarthen and Swansea Bays, is inhabited for the most part 
by the descendants of the Norman and Flemish dependents of 
William's barons, who are still a distinct colony, differing in 
language and dress from the native Welsh. 

From Swansea an excursion may be made, by means of the 
railway from Rutland Street to Oystermouth, a pretty little 
bathing place, near the lighthouse on Mumbles Head, with an 
old Norman castle. Communication is kept up between this 
port and Ilfracombe by a steamer which runs once a week. 



Resuming the route to the west from Llandilo, we pass through 
a number of small stations to 

Caermarthen. 

[Hotels : " Ivy-bush " and " Boar's Head."] 
This town (population 10,488) is the capital of the county, 
well situated at the head of the Towy Vale, and carrying on an 
extensive trade. The public buildings are better than one might 
expect from the size of the place ; they include a Town Hall, 
Market House, Grammar School, Assembly-rooms, and large 
Diocesan Training School, the Gothic front of which (200 feet in 
length) is much admired. Monuments to the memory of Sir 
Thomas Picton and General Nott stand near the old Guildhall 
and in Nott Square respectively ; and in the old church is the 
tomb of the benevolent and eccentric Sir Richard Steele, one of 
the originators of periodical literature. Like Goldsmith, the good 
Sir Richard was too full of the "milk of human kindness " to 



456 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

amass any money, though he continually possessed considerable 
sums. The church also contains a well-executed copy of the 
Transfiguration and the effigy of an ancient Welsh hero. 

The harbour is about three miles below the town, near the 
mouth of the Towy, which discharges itself into the noble ex- 
panse of Caermarthen Bay. 

Leaving Caermarthen, the line passes through St. Clears and 
Whitland stations to Narberth, a small town with a population 
of 2,546. From thence we pass through Kilgetty, Begelly, 
and Saundersfoot stations, to 

Tenby 

[Hotels : " Gate-house," "White Lion," and "Coburg"], 
on an elevated rocky promontory (population 3,810). Itself a 
picturesque town, it is the centre of a district rich in both coast 
and inland scenery. It has a very old church, remains of the 
walls which once encircled the town, and the ruins of an ancient 
castle. Excursions may be made to the islands of St. Catherine 
and St. Morgore. The latter contains caverns and some ecclesi- 
astical remains. Tenby is famed for its sea-shellr.. From Tenby 
a journey of eleven miles, passing through the stations of Penally, 
Manorbier, and Lamphey, conducts the tourist to 

Pembroke 

[Hotels : " Dragon " and Lion "], 
the capital of the county. Like Tenby it is of great antiquity, 
and is remarkable as being the birth-place of the Earl of Rich- 
mond, who, after the defeat of Richard III. at Bosworth, ascended 
the throne as Henry VII., and, by his marriage with Elizabeth 
of York, united in his person the rival claims of " the Roses, " 
the wars consequent upon which had so long devastated the 
country. 

The ruins of an old castle built by Arnulph de M oligomer oc- 
cupy the summit of a hill commanding the town. The keep is 
seventy feet high. Under the hall is a large cave. It was 
began in 1092, and further enlarged by Strongbow. The old 
church of St. Michael is worthy of notice. 

Pembroke Dock 
is a royal dockyard at the head of the magnificent estuary known 
as Milford Haven, which is crossed twice a day by a steamer from 
Hobb's Point, about a mile from Pembroke station. The dock- 
yards cover an area of eighty-eight acres, and have a sea-front 
of half a mile. The docks were formerly at Milford, but were 
transferred to their present position in 181 5. Milford has since 
declined. 



ABERGA VENNY—NE WPOR T. 45 7 



SECTION LII. 

HEREFORD TO ABERGAVENNY, NEWPORT, AND 
CARDIFF. 

HEREFORD is the starting-point for another tour in South 
Wales, the line passing through Tram Inn, St. Devereux, 
Pontrilas, Pandy, Llanfihangel, and Abergavenny Junction to 

Abergavenny. 

[Hotels: "Angel "and "Greyhound."] 
Abergavenny (population, 4,803) is an ancient town, situated, as 
its name implies, at the junction of the Gavenny and the Usk. 
It occupies the site of a Roman station, known as Gobannhim. 
The ruins of an ancient castle form a very picturesque object in 
the surrounding scenery. The castle was founded by Hamrae- 
line de Bohun at the Conquest, but passed ultimately into the 
possession of the Neville family, who take the title of earl from 
it. A Tudor gate is the chief portion now remaining. Traces 
of a priory are to be found in the town, the church, in which are 
some ancient monuments, having been its chapel. An old 
Grammar School and a Modern Cymseidiggion Society's Hall 
are among its public buildings. The town was formerly noted 
for its springs, flannel, and for its Welsh wigs, made of goat's 
hair, some of which sold for forty guineas each. An old bridge 
of fifteen arches crosses the Usk, close to which a neat iron 
bridge also crosses the river, and in lightness of design forms a 
striking contrast to the old stone structure. Salmon and trout 
fishing are plentiful, which fact, coupled with the beautiful 
scenery of the neighbourhood, has made Abergavenny a resort for 
tourists and health-seekers. Large numbers of villas are in 
course of erection, and this thriving town promises, when some 
contemplated improvements are carried out, to be a rival to 
Malvern. The Sugar-loaf Mountain, 1,856 feet high, near 
Abergavenny, commands from its summit a most extensive and 
beautiful prospect. The ascent is easy, and though it occupies 
three hours, the view from its top amply repays the trouble. 

From Abergavenny the tourist proceeds through Penpergwwn, 
Nantyderry, Pontypool, Pontnewydd, and Cwmbran stations, to 

Newport 

[Hotels: "King's Head," "West Gate," and "Queen's "J, 
another bustling mineral port (population 31,247), situated on 
the Usk, about four miles from its mouth. There are several 



458 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE, 

tine docks, including the new Alexandra Dock, the ruins of an 
ancient castle, and a handsome building, called the Victoria 
Hall, comprising assembly-rooms and county court house ; its 
fine portico of six Corinthian columns is surmounted by a statue of 
the Queen. Newport was the scene of a Chartist rising in 1839. 
The tourist may make a deviation at Abergavenny Junction 
from the route to visit Blaenavon, Ebbw Vale, Tredegar, and 
Merthyr. The first station of note is Brynmawr, whence a branch 
line takes the tourist over four and three-quarter miles to Blae- 
navon. Past Beaufort (for Ebbw Vale), Trevil, Nant-y-Bwch, 
and Rhymney Bridge, the train runs to Dowlais, where the traveller 
changes for 

Merthyr Tydfyl 

[Hotels : " Angel/' " Bush/' " Castle," and " Railway"], 
a considerable mining town, of 97,000 inhabitants, worthy of 
remark on account of its active iron blast furnaces, forges, and 
smelting works. It is best seen at night. The town is situated 
at the head of the valley of the Taft, and, with its church, de- 
rived its name (which means "the Martyr Tydfyl") from St. 
Tydfyl, the daughter of Brychan (a Welsh chief), who was put 
to death for her adhesion to Christianity in the early ages of the 
British Church. 

Cardiff 

[Hotels: "Royal," " Cardiff Arms," "Angel," " Queen's," and " Mount 

Stuart"] 

(population 39,536) is situated at the mouth of the River Taff, 
and belongs in great part to the wealthy Marquis of Bute. It 
is the great depot for the coal and iron produce of the surround- 
ing district, and is of considerable antiquity. Remains may still 
be seen of the town walls, and the castle in which Henry I. kept 
his fiery brother, Robert, imprisoned until his death, having pre 
viously had his eyes put out. The town, however, owes its great- 
ness to commerce. The exports amount annually to ^3.000, 000 
and the increasing trade has led to the formation of a ship- 
canal, docks, a tidal basin, and a pier, where vessels can land 
even at low water. The tide recedes so much in the estuary 
of the Severn as to necessitate the formation of this work, 26,000 
feet long. The castle has recently been magnificently restored 
by its noble owner, and fitted as a residence, from designs by the 
celebrated architect, Mr. Burgess. The parish church is a vene- 
rable building, with an elegant tower, and the new town hall is 
a handsome structure, in the Italian style. Cathay's is the 
principal public park. Hensol and Wenvoe Castle are two 
fine seats in the neighbourhood. 



r 



SCOTLAND. 



SECTION LIII. 

CARLISLE TO GLASGOW, via CARSTAIRS JUNCTION. 

WE have .thus in imagination conducted our readers through 
the beautiful scenery of the Emerald Isle and Wales, and 
visited nearly every place of any note in England. We will now 
accompany our friends upon a circular tour through Scotland, 
proceeding northwards along the west coast, and by the Cale- 
donian Canal, and journeying southwards on our return through 
the heart of the country, as well as by the east coast. We 
purpose making Carlisle our point of departure and working our 
way back to it, for the historic reason that that town was the key 
to Scotland during the fierce straggles between England and 
Scotland, as well as because it is the most northern station of any 
importance in England on the route we purpose to travel. 

Entering our carriage at the Citadel station (built from a design 
by Mr. Tite, the architect of the Royal Exchange, London), and 
crossing the Calder and the Eden, we arrive at 

Rockcliffe. 

From hence a fine view is afforded of Solway Firth, an estuary 
thirty miles in length and twenty in breadth at its mouth. 
The tidal wave is a striking phenomenon in this place. At 
the flood tide it rushes up the channel, with a crest of from 



SCOTLAND. 



SECTION LIII. 

CARLISLE TO GLASGOW, via CARSTAIRS JUNCTION. 

WE have .thus in imagination conducted our readers through 
the beautiful scenery of the Emerald Isle and Wales, and 
visited nearly every place of any note in England. We will now 
accompany our friends upon a circular tour through Scotland, 
proceeding northwards along the west coast, and by the Cale- 
donian Canal, and journeying southwards on our return through 
the heart of the country, as well as by the east coast. We 
purpose making Carlisle our point of departure and working our 
way back to it, for the historic reason that that town was the key 
to Scotland during the fierce struggles between England and 
Scotland, as well as because it is the most northern station of any 
importance in England on the route we purpose to travel. 

Entering our carriage at the Citadel station (built from a design 
by Mr. Tite, the architect of the Royal Exchange, London), and 
crossing the Calder and the Eden, we arrive at 

Rockcliffe. 

From hence a fine view is afforded of Solway Firth, an estuary 
thirty miles in length and twenty in breadth at its mouth. 
The tidal wave is a striking phenomenon in this place. At 
the flood tide it rushes up the channel, with a crest of from 



460 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

three to six feet high, at the rate of ten miles an hour, to the 
danger of all inexperienced persons who may be on the sands or 
in small boats on the water. 

A few minutes bring us to the Esk, which we cross on a seven- 
arched viaduct, and proceeding along the Guards' embankment, 
formed upon a deep moss which absorbed thousands of tons of 
earth before a sufficently solid foundation was laid, we pass 
Floriston station. We next reach Gretna Green station, the last 
in England, and directly afterwards cross the Sark, the boundary 
between the two kingdoms, and reach 

Gretna 

[Hotels : " Sark Bank" and " Graham Arms "], 
the first station in Scotland. Gretna was formerly celebrated 
for the marriages of fugitive lovers from England. More than 
three hundred marriages took place annually in this and the 
neighbouring village of Springfield. Gretna was, too, the scene, 
in the days of yore, of many border frays, the traces of which are 
apparent in the neighbouring ruins. At 

Kirkpatrick, 

(four and a half miles distant, and the next station), some of the 
fiercest of these continual struggles took place. Leaving Kirk- 
patrick, the line crosses the Kirtle, on a viaduct of nine arches, 
and then passes the tower of Robert Gill, a noted freebooter, who, 
like many other reckless "chields" of former times, made the 
border districts the scene of his frequent raids. We next pass 
Kirtle Bridge, Ecclefechan, and Lockerbie. In the neighbourhood 
of the latter is Brick Hall, whose "Old Mortality" died in 1801. 
The first station on leaving Lockerbie is Nethercleugh, close 
to which are Jardine Hall, the residence of the celebrated na- 
turalist, Sir William Jardine, and Shedlin Tower (supposed to 
be haunted), the ancient seat of the family. Dinwoodie is next 
reached, and Wamphray, five miles from which, after crossing 
the "silver Arrow," we enter the Beattock refreshment station, 
whence omnibuses take visitors to Moffat (see pp. 462.3). 
Leaving Beattock, we next come to 

Elvanfoot, 

fourteen miles distant. The station rests on a high summit 
level of the Lowther Hills, which, at an elevation of 3,150 feet, 
stretch along the left-hand side of the line from Beattock. 
At the opposite side of the railway, the now small stream of the 
Clyde may be traced to its source. Following up the course of 
this river, the railway descends to the valley towards Carstairs, 



ABING TO \\ ^—S YMING TON. 46 1 

passing the ruined fortress of Crawford Castle, the scene of one 
of Sir William Wallace's doughty deeds. 

Abington 
(five miles from Elvanfoot) is situated at the mouth of the Glen- 
gonnor, a stream in whose bed considerable quantities of gold, 
silver, and lead have been found. Arbory Hill, on the left, 
contains ruins of a Druidical temple. 

The train now reaches Lamington, the seat of Baillie Cochrane, 
Esq., M.P. Passing 

Symington 

station, the line winds along the base of Tintoch, which rises 2,312 
feet above the sea. This mountain, the name of which is said 
to be the " Hill of Fire," is crowned by a Druidical cairn. In 
one of the stones there is a hole, formed, according to tradition, 
by the pressure of Sir William Wallace's thumb when grasping 
the stone on the evening previous to the battle of Boghall, or 
Biggar, and alluded to in the following rhyme : — 

" On Tintoch-tap there is a mist, 

And in that mist there is a kist, 

And in the kist there is a caup, 

And in the caup there is a drap : 
Tak' up the caup, drink off the drap, 
And set the caup on Tintock-tap. " 

There is a branch line from Symington to Peebles and the 
"Land of Scott." Leaving the station, we pass an old ruin 
called Fatlips Castle, on the left, and Quoth quan Law, the hill 
where Wallace held a council of war before his victory at 
Biggar. " Wallace's Chair," the stone on which he sat, is still 
pointed out. We now arrive (five miles) at Carstairs, the 
junction for Edinburgh and Glasgow. The Glasgow route, pur- 
suing a westerly course, crosses the Mouse near Cleghorn, in the 
vicinity of which is Craiglockhart Castle, and the Lockhart 
family's modern mansion — Lee Castle — in which is preserved 
"Lee penny," celebrated in the Talisman of Scott. We now 
hurry past Braidwood and Hallbar Tower, an ancient strong- 
hold of the Douglases, and, crossing the gorge of "Jock's Gill," 
enter Carluke station, whence we reach tlfe coal and iron dis- 
tricts of Lanarkshire. The next station is Overtown, after 
which, crossing another gorge — " Garrion Gill" — we reach 
Wishaw, the seat of Lord Belhaven, near which is the ruin of 
Cambusnethan. We are now near Glasgow, and can enter that 
important town by several routes. 



462 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 



EXCURSION XVI. 
BEATTOCK TO MOFFAT AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD. 

LEAVING Beattock station (page 460) in a well-horsed and 
comfortably-fitted omnibus, a drive of two miles, along a 
road surrounded on every side but one by lofty hills, brings us 
to the fashionable watering-place and village of 

Moffat 

[Hotels : " Annandale Arms," " Buccleugh Arms," and " Sinclair's "J, 

one of the best spas in Scotland. The drive of two miles from 
the station is not particularly interesting. On the right is seen 
Loch House Tower, a solitary square ruin, and away to the 
south Lochwood Castle, belonging to the Johnstones of Annan- 
dale. Three stones by the roadside mark the spot where three 
of this family were slain in a conflict with the followers of Baliol. 
Moffat consists of one main street, in which are the principal 
shops, the hotels, and the reading-room. The outskirts of the 
village contain some pretty residences, built of black marble, 
quarried from the craig near the mineral well. The well-house 
is about a mile and a half from the village, near a steep bank, 
where the well burn forms the fountain. The water, which is 
sulphurated, not saline, is beautifully clear, but has a rather 
disagreeable odour. The Hartfell range of mountains, the 
highest in the south of Scotland, ranging in altitude from 2,000 
feet to 2,600 feet, are among the hills of the neighbourhood. 
Pleasant residences are scattered in the valleys between them. 

The excursion from Moffat to the " Grey Mare's Tail " water- 
fall, Loch Skene, and St. Mary's Loch, in Yarrowdale (sixteen 
miles), is one of the many delightful drives in this neighbour- 
hood. Coaches leave every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, 
at ten in the morning, and return in time for the evening train, 
so that the tourist may proceed on to Glasgow the same night. 
The road lies through Moffatdale by the Craigieburn Wood — 
the wood mentioned in a song written by Burns for an un- 
poetical lover, who thought to soften his fair one's heart with the 
tribute, but to no purpose. Having passed Craigieburn, the 
vale narrows. On the left is the steep hill of Saddleyoke, and 
opposite this, Bodsbeck — from which Hogg's romance, The 
Brownie of Bodsbeck, derives its name. The sound of the 
waterfall can now be heard, though it is still a long way off. 



LOCH SKENE— ST. MARTS LOCH. 463 

When at length it bursts on the sight, it must be admitted that 
its name is not inappropriate, and that Scott has not exaggerated 
in the following description : — 

' ' Through the rude barriers of the lake, 
Away the hurrying waters break, 
Faster and whiter, dash and curl, 
Till down yon dark abyss they hurl ; 
Then issuing forth, one foamy wave, 
And wheeling round the giant's grave, 
White as the snowy charger's tail, 
Drives down the pass of Mofifatdale." 

A steep and dangerous road leads from the " tail " to 
Loch. Skene 
(about two miles distant), whence the stream of Moffat- 
water flows to the point where it launches itself forward for its 
fall of 300 feet. The loch is a dark and desolate tarn, 1,000 
feet above the level of the sea, containing two or three rocky 
islets frequented by eagles. Having reached the top of the pass, 
the coach now descends by the course of the Yarrow, which flows 
into the Loch of the Lowes — a bleak-looking piece of Water, 
about a mile long, divided by a narrow neck of land from 

St. Mary's Loch, 
a small stream connecting the waters of the two lakes. The 
latter, and more celebrated of the two, is rather more than 
seven miles in circumference, and in some places is thirty 
fathoms deep. Even in the present day it is sometimes 
visited in the winter by flights of wild swans. There can be 
little doubt that both sheets of water were originally one, the 
neck which now divides them having been raised by the opposite 
currents of the Corsecleugh and Oxcleugh Burns. St. Mary's 
Loch has ever been a favourite source of inspiration to the 
British poets — -Scott, Wordsworth, Hogg, and many lesser men 
having each in turn celebrated its romantic beauty. The chapel 
of St. Mary stood upon the eastern shore of the lake, and gave 
it its name. Nothing but vestiges now remain, although the 
building was used for worship up to the seventeenth century ; it 
had, however, been injured much earlier by the clan of Scott, 
in a feud with the Cranstouns. Outside the cemetery, at a dis- 
tance of some 400 yards, is a small mound, known as Binram's 
Cross : this is pointed out by tradition as being the burial-place 
of a wizard, who was also priest of the neighbouring chapel. 
A short time before he reaches the lake, the tourist passes 

Chapelhope, 

the site of another ancient church, and the monument of James 



464 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

Hogg, the "Ettrick Shepherd." From this point the tourist 
can take another coach on to 

Selkirk, 

past Dryhope Tower, the birth-place of Mary Scott, the "Flower 
of Yarrow," and Mount Benger, the cottage of her historian, 
James Scott. We recommend this road, for it leads through the 
Braes of Yarrow, of which Wordsworth has sung — 

" If care with freezing years should come, 

And wandering seem but folly ; 
Should we be loth to stir from home 

And yet be melancholy ; 
Should life be dull, and spirits low, 

'Twill soothe us in our sorrow, 
That earth has something yet to show— • 

The bonny Holms of Yarrow." 

The tourist will find other attractions than those of scenery, 
for about a mile beyond Yarrowford and Broadmeadows (the 
seat of H. Lang, Esq.) stands Newark Castle, the scene of 
Scott's Lay of the Last Minstrel. Opposite the castle, on the 
banks of the Yarrow, is Foulshiels, the cottage where Mungo 
Park was born. At the junction of the Ettrick and Yarrow, 
buried in a forest of trees, is Bowhill, the hunting seat of the 
Duke of Buccleuch. Hard by was fought the battle of Philip- 
haugh, between General Leslie and Montrose, by which the 
latter's hopes of restoring the royal family were for ever crushed. 

Selkirk was an ancient hunting-seat of the Scottish kings. 
It is no longer a town of much importance, but it is within five 
miles of Abbotsford, the residence of Scott, and contains monu- 
ments erected in memory of the poet and of Mungo Park. 
We shall now assume that our tourist returns to Moffat, z'id 
Ettrick and Midler Burn. About two miles south from the road, 
by following the course of the Rankle, past Tushielaw Hill and 
Tower, where lived Adam Scott, " The King of the Border 
Thieves," the farm steading of Buccleuch is reached. The original 
seat of the present ducal family, whence the title is derived, stood 
in this place ; faint traces of a dwelling are still visible. A deep 
ravine, or clench, on the Hawick road, is shown as the place 
where the buck was slain. Returning to the main road, the 
tourist passes Thirlstane, the seat of Lord Napier, and the village 
of Ettrick, the birthplace of Hogg, and so back to Moffat. 

Other excursions may be made from Moffat to the Devil's 
Beef-tub (five miles), Hartfell Spa, and Garnol Spa (about five 
miles each), and Wamphray Glen (eight miles). 



LANARK. 465 



EXCURSION XVIL 
CARSTAIRS TO LANARK AND DOUGLAS. 

A BRANCH line leaves Carstairs Junction for Lanark and 
Douglas. The route is interesting, as the neighbourhood 
was Wallace's hiding-place, when his life was sought by the 
English king, and consequently 

*' Each rugged rock proclaims great Wallace' fame, 
Each cavern wild is honoured by his name ; 
Here, in repose, was stretched his mighty form , 
And there he sheltered from the night and storm." 

Lanark 

[Hotels: "Clydesdale," "Commercial," "Douglas," and " Black Bull "] 
is but four miles and a half from Carstairs. It is a very ancient 
town (population 5,099), though no longer of any importance, 
save for its associations. The first Scottish Parliament met 
here, in 978, in the reign of Kenneth II. Here, also, the 
patriot Wallace lived ; and here, in 1297, he began his career 
by the slaughter of Haselrigg, the English sheriff, in vengeance for 
the murder of his wife. The town consists of a principal street, 
with a number of smaller thoroughfares branching from it. The 
Grammar School is famous from the fact of General Roy and 
Judge Macqueen having been educated there. The vicinity is full 
of places connected with the exploits of Wallace, a statue of 
whom stands in a niche over the principal entrance of the parish 
church. 

The nearest of the falls, Bonnington, is but two miles and a half 
from Lanark ; but Corra Linn, about a mile farther down the 
river, is usually visited first. The fall is so called from Corra, 
the daughter of the king of Strath- Clyde, said to have been 
precipitated into the boiling waters by her frightened palfrey. 
The best view is obtained from the opposite cliff, whence the 
entire descent of eighty-four feet can be seen. The waters make 
three leaps, the highest being fifty feet. Another fine view may 
be had from the little mirrored pavilion erected by Sir James 
Carmichael. The ruins overhanging the cliff are those of Core- 
house Castle. Near the ruin is Wallace's Leap, where two 
projecting rocks narrow the river. The leap was made to gain 
the shelter of a cave in the opposite cliff, after the death of 
Haselrigg. Corra Linn, although only the second of the thr ee 



falls in point of size, is undoubtedly first in point of beauty. 
Seen, as it should be, from below, the foaming waters, as they 
are projected in a double leap over the precipice, the black and 
weltering pool below, the magnificent range of dark perpendicular 
rocks, 1 20 feet in height, which sweep, around on the left, the 
romantic banks on the opposite side, the river calmly pursuing 
its onward course, and the rich garniture of wood with which the 
whole is dressed, combine to form a spectacle with which the 
most celebrated cataracts in other parts of the Old World will 
scarcely stand a comparison. 

From Corra Linn the tourist proceeds to Bonnington, through 
Sir Charles Ross's romantic grounds. Above this fall the river 
flows strongly, but without rage, between wooded and moss-grown 
banks, deserving the encomium of Wordsworth — 

" For thou, O Clyde, hast ever been 
Beneficent as strong ; 
Pleased in refreshing dews to steep 
The little trembling flowers that peep 
Thy shelving walks among." 

But just before reaching Bonnington Linn it changes its course, 
and, splitting its current upon an opposing rock, dashes in twin 
falls over a precipice, thirty feet high, into a deep basin at the 
bottom. Stonebyres, the largest of the falls, is four miles below 
Bonnington, and is best seen from the grounds of Stonebyres 
House, the seat of General Douglas. The approach to the fall 
is, however, by no means an easy one. 

From Lanark the tourist should make a slight detour to visit 
Cartlane Crags and Wallace's Cave, situated on the Mouse, about 
a mile from Lanark, in a north-westerly direction. The cliffs 
rise on one side of the glen to the height of 400 feet. The abyss 
formed by this and the opposite side of the Mouse is spanned by 
a three-arched bridge, just near Wallace's Cave. A little beneath 
is a narrow single-arched bridge, built during the Roman occu- 
pation. 

Taking the branch train again at Lanark, we set out for 

Douglas 

(seven miles distant), through Douglasdale, to the castle of " The 
Douglas " — the Castle Dangerous of Sir Walter Scott's novel. 
In the neighbourhood of the town is an extensive coalfield, which 
adds considerably to its prosperity. 



A NNA N—D UM FRIES. *fi 7 



SECTION LIV. 

CARLISLE TO GLASGOW, via AYR (LAND OF BURNS). 

A SECOND route from Carlisle to Glasgow conducts one 
through the county of Ayr— classic ground on account of 
its connection with Robert Burns. Passing through Gretna 
(already described on page 460), the junction between the two 
lines is a little to the north, and the next station is 

Annan 

[Hotel : (l Queensbury Arms "], 
a busy town, with 3,170 inhabitants, engaged in the coasting and 
shipbuilding trades, salmon fisheries, and gingham factories. Dr. 
Blacklock, the blind poet, and Edward Irving were natives of 
this place. Annan is situated at the mouth of a river of the 
same name, which forms an excellent harbour in the Sol way 
Frith. The ruins of a castle built by the Bruces may yet be seen 
in the neighbourhood. 

Cummertrees and Ruthwell come next, and passing Racks, we 
reach the station at 

Dumfries 

[Hotels : "King's Arms," "Commercial," u Railway," " Swan," and 
" Queensberry "], 

the burial-place of Burns. The town (population 15,435) is an 
ancient one, and, apart from its associations in connection with 
the poet, contains some interesting antiquities, amongst which 
may be mentioned the monastery erected by Devorgilla, the 
mother of John Baliol, in which Robert Bruce murdered the 
Red Comyn. Near the monastery is the bridge, built at the 
same time, which is supposed to be the oldest in Scotland. 
The number of the arches was originally thirteen : of these only 
six remain. The structure, however, is still used as a foot- 
bridge, The grave of Burns is in old St. Michael's Churchyard. 
He was originally buried in the north corner, but in the year 
18 1 5 his body was removed to a vault beneath a handsome 
monument, which was erected by public subscription at a cost 
of ;£ 1,450. The marble group by Turner elli, contained within, 
shows the Genius of Scotland enrobing the poetic husbandman, 
who stands by his plough, in the mantle of inspiration. The 
text of this design is the passage in one of the poet's dedications 
in which he says, " The poetic genius of my country found me, 



46S LONDON AXD NORTH-WEST ERN GUIDE. 

as the prophet bard Elijah did Elisha, at the plough, and threw 
her inspiring mantle over me." The church pew, on which 
Burns had cut his initials during ''wearying sermonizing," has 
been lately removed. The unpretending house in which he 
died, however, is still to be seen, in Burns Street. Many ot 
Burns's best poems were composed in the grounds of Lincluden 
Abbey, the residence of Major Young, and at Ellisland, where 
he resided for some time as tenant of Patrick Millar, the pro- 
jector of the steamboat. The vicinity of Dumfries is interesting. 
Visits may be made to many places, the scenery of which is 
graphically depicted by Scott in his Guy Mannering and Red 
Gauntlet ; to the ruins of New Abbey, erected in the twelfth 
century, and Creffell, with its cloud-capped summit, 1,831 feet 
above the level of the sea ; and to other places. 

Leaving Dumfries. station, and travelling by the Ayr line, 

Holywood 

station is soon reached. The place derives its name from the 
grove of sacred Druid oaks that grew by the parish church. The 
train continues its course from this station along the banks of the 
Xith. On the right is Queensberry Hill (2,140 feet), skirting 
which we come to Closeburn, where Sir James Stuart Menteath 
formerly resided. 

Closeburn, 

the next station, is near the castle of that name. Closeburn 
Castle, the former seat of the Kirkpatricks, is in a good state 
of preservation. This family, descended from the Kirkpatrick, 
who completed the murder of Comyn after Bruce had smitten 
him in the church, is closely connected with that of the ex- 
Empress of the French. In the neighbourhood is the cascade, 
90 feet in height, known as Crichup Linn, or the " Grey Mare's 
Tail," of which the Old Statistical Account says, "Nothing can 
be more striking than the appearance of this linn from the bottom. 
The darkness of the place, upon which the sun never shines ; the 
rugged rocks, rising over one's head, and seeming to meet at the 
top, with here and there a blasted tree, seeming to burst from 
the crevices ; the rumbling of the water falling from rock to 
rock, and forming deep pools, together with some degree of 
danger to the spectator whilst he surveys the striking objects that 
present themselves to his view — all naturally tend to work upon 
the imagination." Leaving Closeburn, Borjorg Tower may be 
seen on the opposite bank of the river ; then passing into Niths- 
dale, 



THORNHILL— SANQUHAR— NEW CUMNOCK, 469 
Thornhill 

[Hotel : " Queensberry Arms "] 
is reached, a remarkably clean village, in the centre of which 
rises a pillared cross, surmounted by a winged Pegasus. Outside 
the village, on rising ground, is the magnificent pile of Drum- 
lanrig Castle, belonging to the Duke of Buccleugh. An excursion 
may be made from Thornhill (eight miles) to Minihive, embracing 
sights of Tynron Doon, a conical hill fort, Maxwellton Braes 
(the home of "Annie Laurie"), and Craigenputtock, the former 
residence of Thomas Carlyle. 

Leaving Thornhill, and passing Carron Bridge, the train runs 
through a tunnel under the grounds of Drumlanrig, and then 
affords some splendid prospects as it approaches 

Sanquhar 

(population 1,324). Overlooking the town is the castle of the 
same name, the ancient residence of the Crichtons ; and Elliock 
House, a mile from the castle, is pointed out as the birthplace of 
the celebrated " Admirable Crichton." Sanquhar is intimately 
connected with the history of the Covenanters. It was here that 
Richard Cameron, with twenty-one associates, fixed to the market 
cross the document in which they renounced their allegiance to 
Charles, and which is known as the " Sanquhar Declaration." 

The train from this place runs westward towards Kirkconnell, 
the "parish of fifty streams " (amongst which are two mineral 
springs). Between Kirkconnell and New Cumnock, on the 
right-hand side, Glenarry Hill is descried ; behind it stands the 
Three-shire Stone, marking the spot where Dumfries, Lanark, 
and Ayrshire join their borders. As we advance, the country 
becomes more and more undulating, until, approaching 

New Cumnock 

[Hotel: "Crown"], 
the hills rise on every side. Amongst the streams which take 
their rise amid these hills is the Afton, the subject of one of 
Burns 's songs. 

We are now in the land consecrated by the muse of the 
" Ayrshire ploughman. " Near Old Cumnock the train crosses 
the Lugar River by a very handsome viaduct, 756 feet in length 
and 150 feet above the level of the river. The hurried glimpses 
allowed, as the train speeds, of this fine structure, are as beautiful 
as they are brief. To the south are seen Blackcraig and the 
Afton Braes — 

" Far mark'd with the courses of clear winding rills." 



470 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

On the right-hand rise Cairntable, Cairns Muir, and Wardlow, 
while in front stretches the beautiful estate of the Marquis of 
Bute, with Auchinleck and the river Ayr, and the ocean in the 
distance. The residence of the Marquis is called Dumfries House. 
In it are some fine Louis Quatorze tapestries, presented by the 
' ' Grand Monarque " himself to one of the Earls of Dumfries. 
The ruins of Terringzean Castle, the ancient seat of the Loudon 
family, are in the demesne, which extends its fine plantations 
across the river Lugar. 

In the graveyard at Cumnock (once the place of execution) 
Alexander Peden, the celebrated covenanting, preacher, and 
Thomas Richard, another martyr to the cause, are buried. In 
the vicinity of the viaduct is a small cottage, famous as the birth- 
place of William Murdoch, the inventor of lighting by gas. Two 
miles farther is 

Auchinleck 

[Hotel : " Railway "] 
(pronounced Affleck), the residence of Sir James Boswell, the 
biographer of Dr. Johnson. 

From Auchinleck there is a branch line (nine'miles long) across 
Aird's Moss, to 

Muirkirk, 
[Hotel : " Black Bull "J, 
where Richard Cameron and his followers were cut off. This 
spot is marked by "Cameron's Stone." This was also the scene 
of the execution of John Browne, the " Christian Carrier," over 
whose grave is the following curious inscription : — 

" Here lies the body of John Browne, martyr, who was murdered in this 
place by Graham of Claverhouse, for his testimony to the covenant 
and work of Reformation, and because he did not own the authority 
of the then tyrant, destroying the same ; who died the last of May, 
a.d. 1685 ; and of his age 58. 

" In death's cold bed the dusty part here lies 
Of one who did the earth as dust despise ; 
Here, in this spot, from earth he took departure ; 
Now he hath got the garland of the martyr. 
Butcher'd by Claverhouse and his bloody band, 
Raging most ravenously over all the land, 
Only for owning Christ's supremacy, 
Wickedly wrong' d by encroaching tyranny, 
Nothing, how dear so ever, he too good 
Esteem'd, nor dear for any truth his blood." 

The ironworks at Muirkirk are worthy of a visit. 

Resuming our journey on the main route, we now cross the 
Ballochmyle Viaduct, which spans the Ayr at a height of 95 feet, 
with a single magnificent arch of 100 feet span. 



MUIRKIRK—MA UCHLINE—KILMARKO CK. 47 1 

Sorn Castle, a very ancient edifice overlooking the rivulet of 
Bank Burn, the villages of Sorn and Catrine, and the cascades 
of Cleugh Burn, are also in the neighbourhood. Catrine is a 
place of considerable manufacturing industry, and is supposed 
to resemble the Lowell factories in the United States. The 
works were originally begun by Claud Alexander, Esq., of 
Ballochmyle, and David Dale, of Glasgow, merchant, in the 
year 1786. Where Catrine stands there were then only two 
families, those of the miller and the blacksmith ; but the place 
soon became populous, its chief support being derived from ex- 
tensive cotton and bleaching works. The scenes of several of 
his poems were laid by Burns in this charming vicinity. Here 
he]was a frequent visitor at the house of Professor Dugald Stewart 
and his wife, of whom the poet said, 

" Learning and worth in equal measures trode 
From simple Catrine, their long-loved abode." 

In the Braes of Ballochmyle too, which stretch from Catrine 
along the river to Haughford Bridge, are the subject of one 
of his most exquisite pieces. The Lass of Ballochmyle is an- 
other lyric referring to this place, elicited by a romantic episode 
in which Miss Alexander, the "bonny lass," was startled at the 
sudden appearance of the poet in a lonely part of the Catrine 
wood. 

Having crossed the viaduct, the train now enters the 

Mauchline 

[Hotels : " Loudonn " and Black Bull "] 
station. This village is also much celebrated in the bard's 
songs ; for his farm of Mossgiel was situated only a mile from 
Mauchline. Here he was married to Jean Armour ; here is the 
field where his plough turned up the "mouse's nest" and bruised 
the "daisy;" and here is Poosie Nancy's cottage, where the 
1 ' Jolly Beggars " met, opposite to the church whose rector the 
poet satirized as " Daddy Auld." Wishart preached in Mauch- 
line church (lately rebuilt) in 1544, and the Royalists were 
defeated on the moor in 1647. A stone on the Green records 
the martyrdom of five persons in 1685. 

From Mauchline the line lies near Loudon Castle and Kirk, 
along the valley by Galston, and thence to the junction at 

Kilmarnock 

[Hotels : " George," " Black Bull," and " Turf "1, 

where the poet's first volume was published in 1786. The town 

at present carries on an extensive trade, and is celebrated for its 

woollen manufactory. The population in 1871 was 22,963. 



472 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

Kilmarnock was the birthplace of the eminent Sir James Shaw, 
of whom a colossal statue stands at the end of King Street. At 
Rice art on, not far from the town, the greatest of the Scotch 
heroes — William Wallace — was educated by his uncle Richard. 
The tourist will now take the branch line to 

" Auld Ayr, whom ne'er a toun surpasses 
For honest men and bonnie lasses," 

via Troon, Monkton, and Prestwick. Passing Troon, we have 
the sea on the right, in front the Heads of Ayr, and on the 
left Fullerton House, the seat of the Duke of Portland. From 
the Monkton station the steeples of Ayr can be seen ; and 
now passing Prestwick, a town of mean appearance, where the 
magistrates can imprison, but not lock the prison door, we enter 
the station at Ayr — a spacious building in the Elizabethan style. 
The river must be crossed by the "new brig " ere we reach 

Ayr 

[Hotels : " King's Arms," " Queen's," and "Ayr Arms "J, 
proper, which has a population of 17,851. The "auld brig" 
is about 200 yards higher up the river, and both still exhibit the 
features so quaintly sketched by the poet :■ — 

" New brig was buskit in a braw new coat, 
That he at Lunon frae ane Adam gat, 
In's hand five taper stanes as smooth's a bead, 
Wi' birls and whirly-gigums at the head. 

" Auld brig appear'd o' ancient Pictish race, 
The vera wrinkles Gothic in his face. 
He seem'd as he wi' time had wrastled lang, 
Yet teughly doune, he bade an unco bang." 

There are many fine public buildings in Ayr : among these may 
be mentioned the Court House, County Hall and Assembly- 
room, at the farthest end of Wellington Square, as one ap- 
proaches from the new brig ; and the Gothic structure called 
Wallace Tower, in High Street. It contains the "dungeon 
clock 5 ' and bells, alluded to in the poem above quoted, and a 
lofty niche at the front presents to view a colossal statue of 
William Wallace. There is another statue of the Scottish hero 
at the corner of New Market Street, occupying a niche in the 
house wherein Wallace found shelter on one occasion. "The 
Fort," erected by Cromwell in 1652, around the old parish 
church of St. John, which he converted into an armoury, stands 
a little to the left of the river as you walk towards the harbour 
from Wellington Square. The ancient castle and -palace of Ayr 
is supposed to have occupied the same site. The old tower, 
which formed a part of the church, is now fitted up as a 



residence. To obtain a general view of the town the tourist 
should ascend Brown Carrick Hill. It commands views of the 
Burns Monument, the New Bridge of Doon, Doon Brae Cot- 
tage, Alio way Kirk, Burns's own cottage, and the town, with 
the Island of Arran and the Firth of Clyde in the distance. 
On the left are Castle Newark, and the ruins of Greenan Castle 
impending over the sea from a high cliff. An excursion along 
this portion of the coast (south of Ayr) will repay the tourist. 
About five miles below William the Bold's castle of Greenan 
is Dunure Castle ; while three miles beyond this Culzean is 
reached — a magnificent Gothic pile, erected by the Earl of 
Cassilis in 1777, containing a splendid collection of paintings, 
ancient armour, and curious works of art, and surrounded by 
four acres of most delightful pleasure-grounds. Beneath the 
castle the ceaseless action of the waves has formed fine caverns, 
and to crown these attractions it is in the immediate vicinity of 
Kirk oswald, where Burns went to school, and where the im- 
mortal Tarn O'Shanter and Souter Johnny lie buried. The 
place is also mentioned in Hallowe'en : 

" Upon that night, when fairies light 
On Cassilis' Downans dance, 
Or owre the lays, in splendid blaze, 
On sprightly coursers prance ; 
Or for Culzean the route is ta'en 
Beneath the moon's pale beams ; 
There up the cove to stray and rove 
Amang the rocks and streams.' 

It was at Turnberry Head in this neighbourhood that Robert 
Bruce landed, when he commenced the gallant struggle for his 
throne which culminated in his victory at Bannockburn. About 
ten miles out to sea, Ailsa Crag, belonging to the Marquis of 
Ailsa, rises abruptly from the waves to the height of 1,103 f ee t« 
On its summit stands the ruin of an old tower — the whole form- 
ing a striking object when seen from the shore of the mainland. 

We shall now take our tourist to visit the birthplace and 
monument of the Ayrshire bard — a distance of two miles only. 
Proceeding by the road, on the right from High Street, we pass 
the site of the " Barns of Ayr," into which the English entrapped 
Richard Wallace and other Scotch nobles on pretence of a friendly 
feast, but hanged them in pairs as they arrived. The fearful 
vengeance wreaked by William Wallace was long remembered 
with terror by his enemies. In the midst of the carousals, in 
which the English rejoiced over their act of treachery, he fired 
the barns, and upwards of 500 perished in the flames. Continuing 
to advance, we pass many of the stages in Tarn O'Shanter's flight 
before we reach " Alloway's auld haunted kirk." These, how- 



474 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

ever, give precedence to the " clay bigging " in which the poet 
drew his first breath, 25th January, 1759. It stands a little to 
the left of the magnificent residence of Roselle, on a small farm 
of seven acres which was vented by William Burns, the poet's 
father. It is now let as a public house by the Corporation ot 
Shoemakers in Ayr, to whom William sold it on removing to 
Lochlee. A recess in the kitchen is still pointed out as the spot 
wherein Robert was born. The little bedstead which occupied 
the nook was purchased at a public sale by a stable-boy, who 
afterwards resold it for £20. About a mile to the south-east of 
this cottage is Mount Oliphant, the farm subsequently rented by 
Burns's father. Proceeding on our way to the monument, we 
now pass Doonholm on the left, and reach the kirk. It is now 
a roofless ruin ; but the walls are still in a good state of preserva- 
tion, and the bell occupies its old place at the gable end. 
Near the gate of the churchyard is the grave of the poet's 
father, formerly marked by a stone with the following epitaph 
from his son's pen : — 

" O ye whose cheek the tear of pity stains, 

Draw near with pious reverence and attend. 
Here lie the loving husband's dear remains, 

The tender father and the generous friend, 
The pitying heart that felt for human woe, 

The dauntless breast that fear'd no human pride, 
The friend of man — to vice alone a foe ; 

For e'en his failings leant to virtue's side ! " 

To the left of the church rises the monument, directly over the 
new bridge of Doon. It is of a composite style, partly Grecian, 
partly Roman, containing a circular apartment on the ground 
floor, in which are some relics of the poet, and amongst them the 
Bible given by Burns to Highland Mary in the 

" Hallow'd grove 
Where by the winding Ayr we met, 
To live one day of parting love." 

This interesting relic, having been taken to America by the person 
to whom it had descended, was purchased by a few gentlemen in 
Montreal for ^25, and presented to the founders of the monument. 
At the other side of the church are the grounds of Doon Brae 
Cottage and the " auld brig of Doon," over which Tarn urged 
his grey mare Meg to escape Cuttysark and the witches. It may 
interest the visitor to know that the original of the hero of Burns s 
poem was a certain Douglas Graham, of Shanter Farm, near 
Kirkoswald. On his tombstone in the cemetery of that village 
he is designated by his fictitious name. But we must leave the 
tourist to ramble through the rest of this locality alone : our space 
will not permit us to give more details. 



IR VINE—KIL WINNING— DALR Y. 47 5 

Resuming the route which we have already described as far as 
Ayr, and passing Troon once more, the train now approaches 

Irvine, 

leaving, on the right, the Hill of Dundonald, where stand 
the ruins of the castle in which King Robert Stuart wooed and 
won his bride. Irvine is interesting as the town where Burns 
endeavoured to establish himself as a flax-dresser. 

Leaving Irvine, the train enters the grounds of Eglinton Castle, 
one of the most magnificent mansions in the kingdom. Apart from 
its architectural beauty and the tasteful manner in which the ancient 
and modern are blended in the internal fittings, the castle is 
remarkable for the celebrated Eglinton tournament, which came 
off in 1839. Among those who entered the lists was Louis 
Napoleon, afterwards Emperor of the French, who died in 
exile at Chiselhurst, in Kent, January, 1873. 

The train now wheels into the old town of 

Kilwinning 

[Hotel : " Eglinton Arms "], 
celebrated in the Freemasonry world as having one of the oldest 
lodges in the United Kingdom, its foundation being coeval with 
that of the abbey, viz. 1107. The south transept of this abbey 
still remains, a remarkably handsome specimen of the First 
Pointed style. Kilwinning is also famous for its Archers' Com- 
pany and their "popinjay" target — so well described in Sir 
Walter's S cott's Old Mortality. 

We now pass the Kilmarnock Junction, and follow the course 
of the Dusk to 

Dairy. 

[Hotels : " King's Arms " and " Blair Arms."] 
In the wooded valley of the Dusk is a remarkable limestone 
cave, with natural columns, resembling a fretted Gothic arch. 
Being regarded with superstitious awe by the people, it afforded 
a safe refuge to the hunted Covenanter in the reign of Charles 
II. Dairy is the seat of the Blair Ironworks. Outside the 
station, Kersland Castle is passed on the right ; it was formerly 
the abode of a famous Covenanter whose castle was always 
open to the unfortunate of his sect. Near it is Caerwinning 
Hill, on which the Scots encamped previous to the battle of 
Largs ; the traces of their fortifications are still apparent. 

Kilbirnie station and loch are now left behind, while Ave pass 
on the left the ancient Castle of Glengarnock, belonging to the 
Earl of Glasgow, and the ruins of Hazlehead and Giffen Castle. 
Beith next comes in view, and soon after Lochwinnoch, beauti- 



476 LOXDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

fully situated on the steep declivity of Mistylaw (1,246 feet 
above), at the opposite shore of the picturesque Lake of Castle 
Sempill. The lake contains three islets, on one of which stand 
the ruins of an ancient fortalice. The ascent of Mistyalw is 
worth making, twelve counties being visible from its summit. 

After leaving Milliken Park station the train passes, on the 
right, the ruins of Elliston Tower, the former residence of 
the Sempill family ; and on the left may be seen the exquisite 
gardens, conservatories, and wooded lawn of the castle. The 
line now lies through a cutting, emerging from which it traverses 
the valley of the Cart, passing the rising town of Johnstone. 
Near to this is Elderslie, the reputed birthplace of Sir 'William 
Wallace. Here is pointed out the trunk of an old oak which 
sheltered the hero on one occasion when closely beset by the 
English soldiers. Farther away in the same direction Stanelie 
Castle and "Wood display themselves, with the Braes of Glennifer 
in the background. 

The train is now carried on a high level to Paisley station, 
from the elevation of which a square pile of buildings, contain- 
ing the court-house and gaol, and abbey ruins, is beheld. The 
town of 

Paisley 

[Hotels : " County" and " George "], 

anciently Passaleth, stands on the site of a Roman fortified camp. 
It contains a population, principally manufacturing, of 48,257, 
and some fine churches and public buildings. Special mention 
deserves to be made of the Free Library, which, with the " Foun- 
tain Gardens," was the munificent gift to the town of Sir Peter 
Coats. Paisley produces a very large quantity of manufactured 
cottons, silks, and velvets, the trade having first begun about 
1700, by the making of linen thread. The ground and buildings 
surrounding the abbey are owned by the Duke of Abercorn, who 
is the present representative of Claud Hamilton, the last abbot. 
The burial vault of the family is in the Echoing Vault at the 
south side of the building, which also contains the tomb of Mar- 
jory Bruce, who married Walter Stuart, the founder of the abbey 
(1163), and died from the effects of a fall from her horse, leaving 
behind one son, Robert, who was delivered by the Cesarean 
operation after her death. This Robert Stuart was the first of 
that "royal line of kings," nearly all of whom died violent 
deaths, until the union of the two crowns, and who subsequently 
to that event kept up their character of a doomed race until their 
alleged extinction in the early part of the present century. The 
chancel and the window of the north transept are all that now 
remain of thii ancient abbey church : but a fair idea of its origi- 



P AISLE Y—ThVWALA. 477 

nal grandeur may be derived even from these. Entering by the 
great western pointed door, which is recessed in deep mouldings 
of a rich character, and surmounted by three splendid windows 
superbly traced, the visitor is at once struck by the great altitude 
of the vaulted roof. There are three distinct semicircular tiers 
of arches, with pointed arches formed within them. Besides 
Marjory Bruce, two Scottish queens are buried in the abbey. 
Paisley was the birthplace of Professor Wilson, and of his 
equally well-known namesake, the celebrated American ornitho- 
logist ; also of Tannahill, Motherwell, and other literary cele- 
brities. 

As we proceed to Glasgow, now but seven miles distant, we 
see, on the left, before entering the Arkleston tunnel, the top 
of Teetotal Tower, a Chinese-looking structure, erected by an 
eccentric advocate of total abstinence. On the right, at the 
other extremity of the tunnel, the ruins of Cruickston Castle, 
where Mary, Queen of Scots, spent her honeymoon with Darn- 
ley, display themselves on the wooded bank of the White Cart 
River. Also on the right, as Ave draw near the Paisley Canal, 
we pass Ibrox House, and on the left have a distant peep at the 
handsome spire of Govan Church. We are now in the midst of 
the Glasgow manufactories, with a view in front of the house- 
covered Hill of Garnett, and on the left the harbour, and stop at 
the Bridge Street station in Glasgow. 



SECTION LV. 

CARLISLE, via DUMFRIES, TO STRANRAER. 

HP HIS route is becoming very popular on account of the access 
J- it affords to the north of Ireland with a short sea passage. 
The line to Dumfries has been described in the last section 
(see page 467). 

At Dumfries junction, the line to Stranraer leaves the main line 
to Glasgow. It passes 

Tinwala,^ 
celebrated as the birthplace of Patterson, the founder of the 
Bank of England. In the neighbourhood is Locher Moss 
(twelve miles long), at one time the site of a forest. The ruins 
of a castle and of two camps at Torthorwold should also be 
visited. 



47S LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

The next station is 

Maxwelltown, 
situated about a mile and three quarters from Dumfries, of which 
it forms a fashionable suburb. Helen Walker, the original of 
Sir Walter Scott's "Jeanie Deans," in the Heart of Midlothian, 
was born here, and on a monument erected to her memory will 
be found an inscription by the celebrated author. 

Lochanhead, Killywhan, Kirkgunzeon (near which are the re- 
mains of three Roman camps), Southwick, and Dalbeattie are 
passed, and the tourist reaches 

Castle Douglas 
[Hotels: " Douglas Arms," " Commercial," and '"' King's Arms"], 
a neat and well-built town of growing importance, with a 
population of 2,274. In its vicinity is Carlingwark Loch, 
covering 100 acres, and studded with picturesque little islands. 
On a small island in the Dee, about a mile to the west, is 
Threave Castle, an old stronghold of the Douglasses. It was 
rebuilt about the close of the fourteenth century by Archibald 
the Grim, a natural son of Earl James, who fell at Otterburn, and 
was the scene of many of his acts of cruelty and oppression. 
Above the main gateway may be observed a projecting block of 
granite, called "the hanging stone," of which the eighth Earl 
of Douglas boasted that "the gallows knot of Threave had not 
wanted a tassel for the last fifty years." It was at Threave this 
savage baron put to death Sir John Hemes, of Terregles, and 
Sir Patrick Maclellari, the sheriff of Kirkcudbright, with circum- 
stances of aggravated cruelty, which afterwards led to his own 
murder at Stirling Castle. A short distance to the south is 
Gelston Castle, a modern building, erected by the late Sir W. 
Douglas. 

Passing Crossmichael and Parton stations, we reach 

New G-alloway, 

standing on the river Ken. Near this town is Kenmure Castle, a 
place famous in history as the seat of Lord Kenmure, who took 
part in the Jacobite rebellion of 1745. 

From thence the railway runs, through Dromore, to 

Newton Stewart 

[Hotels ; " Galloway Arms/' " Grapes," " Queens Arms," and " Crown"], 
a town with a population of 2,873, principally engaged in the 
manufacture of leather. It possesses a noble bridge of five 
arches over the River Cree, on which the town is situated. 



CREE TO WN— STRANRAER— PORTPA TRICK. 479 

Cairnmuir, 2,000 feet high, towers among other hills to the 
north. 

The next station on the route is Palnure, after which 

Creetown 

is reached. In the neighbourhood are many valuable granite 
quarries, from some of which was furnished the limestone of which 
the Liverpool docks were built. The place is memorable as being 
the scene of much of the action in Sir Walter Scott's novel, Guy 
Mannering. Dirk Hatteraick's cave is pointed out to visitors, 
as well as the Gauger's Leap, over which the smugglers threw 
Mark Kennedy. 

Passing in succession the stations of Kirkcowan, Glenluce, 
Dunragit, and Castle Kennedy, we reach 

Stranraer 

[Hotels : l< King's Arms," "George," and " Commercial "], 
a port which has lately acquired considerable importance from 
its close proximity to the Irish coast, between which, at Larne, 
and Stranraer there is a daily service of commodious steampackets, 
making the passage in about three hours, having also communi- 
cation with Ayr and Glasgow by steamer, and by coach with 
Whithorn and Wigtown. Stanraer is situated at the head of Loch 
Ryan, and is accessible to vessels of large tonnage. The town, 
which had a population in 1 87 1 of 5,939, is not attractive, but the 
neighbourhood is interesting. Four miles distant are the ruins of 
Castle Kennedy, the property of the Earl of Stair, but formerly the 
seat of the powerful Earls of Cassilis. It was burnt down in an 
accidental fire in 1 7 15. The grounds are laid out in the old style 
of landscape gardening, and are open to the public every day, 
except Sunday. They are kept in excellent condition ; the grassy 
terraces torm an excellent promenade, the pinetum is interest- 
ing, and on one of the neighbouring lochs a heronry is situated. 
Culhorn and Lochnaw Castle are also in the neighbourhood, 
the seats respectively of the Earl of Stair and Sir Andrew 
Agnew, Bart. ; while on the western shore of Loch Ryan, in a 
beautiful situation, stands Loch Ryan House, the seat of Sir 
William Wallace, Bart. 

Leaving Stranraer, the line runs through Colfin station to 

Portpatrick, 

situated on a very rocky coast, with extensive sea views. Port- 
patrick is a small village, whose few inhabitants are engaged for 
the most part either in fishing or weaving. 



4 8o LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 



SECTION LVI. 

GLASGOW. 

[Hotels : "Queen's," " Carrick's," "Royal," "George," "Crown," "Cla- 
rence," "North British,' and "Victoria."] 

Tramways, — An excellent system of tramways exists in Glasgow, by which 
easy conveyance to all the leading points of interest is obtained. 

Cab Fares. — Not exceeding one mile, is. each. Additional half-mile or 
part, 6d. each. Half fare returning. 

THIS is the chief city in Lanarkshire, and, from a commercial 
point of view, in Scotland (population 477, 144). In respect 
to wealth, population, and trade, Glasgow ranks next to London 
and Liverpool. Like the last-named city, its rise has been as- 
tonishingly rapid, and, in the same way as its English rival, it 
owes its progress to the energies and industry of its citizens. 

" Let Glasgow flourish by the word 
And might of every merchant lord, 
And institutions which afford 
Good homes the poor to nourish," 

sang Andrew Park, and it is thus that Glasgow has risen from 
the miserable fishing-hamlet of olden time. The portion of the 
city occupying the northern bank of the Clyde is girt in on the 
north-east and north-west by the ranges of hills, named respec- 
tively Kirkpatrick and Campsie. The river, which is navigable 
up to the city by ships of 2,000 tons, owing to the enormous 
sums lavished in deepening and widening it, is spanned by five 
bridges, from the largest of which, Glasgow Bridge, a fine view 
is commanded of the Broomielaw, or harbour, at once the cause 
and effect of Glasgow's prosperity. Upwards of ^"2,000,000 has 
been expended on this gigantic work. It is 400 feet wide, and 
extends down the stream for a mile and a half, walled on either 
side by superb ranges of quays. In the beginning of the present 
century the Clyde was here scarcely more than a third of its 
present width, with green banks, and a depth of water of barely 
five feet flowing between : now ships drawing twenty-one feet of 
water may come up at full tide. Looking up the stream, the 
course of the river can be followed for some distance, affording a 
good view of the Custom House on the northern bank. Previous 
to the Declaration of Independence, tobacco was the chief import 
in which the Glasgow merchants embarked their capital. They 
then began to cultivate the sugar and cotton trades, in which still 
greater fortunes were made than by the " tobacco lords," while 




GLASGOW CATHEDRAL— ARCHES IN THE CHOIR. 



GLASGOW. 481 



of late years, the iron and ship-building trades have bid fair to 
excel either of the already-mentioned sources of Glasgow's wealth. 
In fact, the ship-building yards of the Clyde have now become 
the most celebrated in Europe. This celebrity is deserved, not 
only from the excellence of the vessels launched, but from the 
fact that here was constructed the first steamer worthy of the 
name that was ever built in Europe. Mr. Miller's experiment 
at Dalswinton preceded the launch of the Comet in point of 
time, but could hardly be compared with the Glasgow steamer 
in any other respect. This little vessel was built by Mr. Henry 
Bell, in the year 181 2, more than four years later than Fulton's 
successful application of steam as a motive power for vessels. 

Assuming the tourist to have put up at one of the hotels in 
George Square or the vicinity, we shall now proceed to point 
out the principal objects of interest in the city. This square, 
our starting-point, contains several monuments. Of these the 
chief is that to Sir Walter Scott — a fluted Doric column, rising 
from the central garden-plot to the height of eighty feet, and 
surrounded by a colossal statue of the poet and novelist. The 
sculptor was, we presume, a Lowlander, seeing that he has put 
the shepherd's plaid over the wrong shoulder. Opposite the 
Post Olfice, on the southern side of the square, are statues of 
Sir John Moore (the subject of Wolfe's Elegy) and of Lord 
Clyde, who were both natives of Glasgow. Proceeding west- 
ward from those, we come to the very fine bronze figure of James 
Watt, by Chantrey. Besides these, there are a statue of Sir Robert 
Peel and equestrian statues of the Queen and the late Prince 
Consort. In the immediate vicinity of the square are the North 
British Railway Station, the Athenaeum High School, and the 
Andersonian University, with an attendance of about 1,700 
students. Proceeding from George Square, en route for the 
Cathedral, the tourist will ascend the upper part of High Street, 
known as the "Bell of Brae," where, according to Blind Harry, 
Sir William Wallace defeated Percy and his English forces. 
Reaching the top we have on our left Rotten Row, or the 
" Street of Processions," which marks the boundary of the 
ancient cathedral city. On the right is the former site of the 
Duke of Montrose's castle, and the -house in which Queen Mary 
nursed Darnley through the small-pox, just before his murder at 
Edinburgh by the infamous Bothwell. We now approach 

The Cathedral, 

the finest specimen of Gothic architecture in Scotland ; in the 
year 1579, it was saved by the citizens from the fury of the 
Reformers. It was founded in the reign of David I., 1123, 
by Bishop Achaius, and built by Murdo, the famous architect 



482 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

of the other gigantic structures mentioned in the following inscrip- 
tion on his tomb : — 

" Iohn Murdo sum tym callit was I, 
And born in Parysse certainly ; 
And had in keping al mason werk, 
Of Sanct Audreys, ye high kirk 
Of Glasgu, Melros, and Paslay, 
Of Nyddysdayll, and of Galway, 
Pray to God and Mari baith, 
And sweet Sanct John, to keep 
This haly kirk fra skaith." 

It does not appear, however, to have been finished till H97> this 
being the date on the dedication stone. The plan is cruciform, 
and extends in length 230 feet, across the walls ; in breadth, 
sixty-three ; in height, within the walls, ninety. There are two 
square towers, one of which has a pointed octangular spire, rising 
to the height of 225 feet. Three churches, with their respective 
clergy, were originally comprised in the one building. Of these 
the crypt, used as the church of the Barony parish, is thus 
described in Rob Roy : "An extensive range of low-browed, 
dark, and twilight vaults, such as are used for sepulchres in other 
countries, and had long been dedicated to the same purpose in 
this, a portion of which was seated with pews, and used as a 
church. The part of the vaults thus occupied, though capable 
of containing a congregation of many hundreds, bore a small 
proportion to the dark and more extensive caverns which yawned 
around what may be termed the inhabited space. In those waste 
regions of oblivion, dusky banners, and tattered escutcheons indi- 
cated the graves of those who were once, doubtless, ' princes in 
Israel. ' Inscriptions, which could only be read by the painful 
antiquary, in language as obsolete as the act of devotional charity 
which they implored, invited the passengers to pray for the souls 
of those whose bodies rested beneath." This portion of the 
building extends beneath the choir. The most modern additions 
which have been made to Glasgow Cathedral are eighty-one 
stained glass windows, inserted within the last half- century, partly 
by Government grants, and partly by the liberal contributions of 
the nobles and gentry. Most of them were executed in Munich, 
at the Royal Establishment of Glass Painting ; some are in the 
first style of art. The names of the particular artists and the 
subjects depicted will be found in a little descriptive catalogue 
sold on the premises for a few pence. 

The Cathedral is bounded on the east by the Molendinar Burn, 
across which the " Bridge of Si^hs " leads to 



The Necropolis, 

which was opened in the year 1830, upon an eminence, rising 
abruptly to the height of 250 feet, and commanding almost the 
only general view to be obtained of Glasgow. This city of the 
dead is tastefully laid out, and teems with monumental erections 
of every description, from the statue-crowned Doric column of 
Knox to the "frail memorials," 

*' With uncouth rhyme and shapeless sculpture deck'd," 

which " implore the passing tribute of a sigh " for the sleepers 
beneath the turf. The prospect from here is very fine. To the 
south and west the city's maze of streets spreads out, diversified 
by the various church steeples and the larger public buildings. 
Due south at the foot of the hill are the mineral spring of Lady- 
well, and the Bridewell, or Gaol. On the north-west towers 
the St. Rollox chimney, which draws off the poisonous effluvia 
of the largest chemical works in the world, and vomits them 
towards the clouds into the pure air at a height of 468 feet. 
The diameter of this huge chimney varies from thirty-six feet at 
the base to fourteen feet at the summit. Glancing round towards 
the south once more, Nelson's Monument is seen ; and nearer, 
almost at our feet, the Hunterian Museum and College, now 
converted into the Coatbridge railway station. The company 
have shown much taste, by sparing the more antique portions of 
the old structure, in the necessary alterations which have been 
made. The Museum, however, had to be demolished, and the 
fine collection of books, coins, paintings, etc. valued at ;£ 130, 000, 
has been removed to the new University buildings. 

Passing down High Street, on our return from the Necropolis, 
we reach 

The Saltmarket, 

which readers of Rob Roy will remember as the abode of Bailie 
Nicol Jarvie. This and Bridge-gate, nearer the river, where 
Cromwell lodged, were formerly the principal streets of the city, 
but are now inhabited by the very poorest classes. After this 
we pass Gaol Square and the city Court-houses, and enter 

Glasgow Green, 

the people's park — which is divided into three portions, called 
High Green, Low Green, and King's Park. In High Green 
stands Nelson Obelisk, 143 feet high. From this the tourist will 
do well to proceed to the south side to Queen's Park, which has an 
area of 100 acres. The south end of this park was the battle-field 
of Langside, where Mary's forces were defeated by the Regent 



484 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

Murray, as she was on her way to Dumbarton Castle. Mary, 
who had watched the varying phases of the struggle from Cath- 
cart Castle (not Cruickston Castle, as Scott wrongly represents 
in The Abbot), after witnessing the defeat of her adherents, 
fled to the borders, and thence to the fatal shelter of Elizabeth's 
dominions. 

Returning to the north side, via the splendid thoroughfares of 
Eglinton and Bridge Streets, we proceed to view the west end of 
the town. We reach Argyle Street, which runs almost parallel 
with the course of the river for a distance of three miles, if we 
include the Trongate, as its eastern extremity, finishing at the 
Cross, is called. Here stands the statue of William III., and 
the Tontine Buildings, formerly the centre of Glasgow's commer- 
cial industry. The Town Hall buildings are also to be seen 
here. The portraits, however, have been removed from the 
hall, and the piazza of the Tontine has been converted into 
shops. Nearly all the principal streets run horizontally north 
and south from Argyle Street. Close by the point reached in 
coming from the bridge is Buchanan Street, the site of the 
best shops, most of which are very elegant structures. The 
south-western corner of the block of buildings between Bucha- 
nan and Queen Streets is cut off by the Arcade, a favourite 
promenade. At the north end of the same block is 

The Royal Exchange, 

the finest building . in Glasgow. It is of the Corinthian order 
of architecture, and cost ^50,000. The news-room, 130 feet 
by sixty, is beautifully decorated, and has a remarkably handsome 
arched ceiling, supported by fluted columns. It is free to the 
public. In front of the Exchange a colossal equestrian statue of 
Wellington has been erected, at a cost of ^"10,000. The pedestal 
contains representations of the duke's various victories in alto- 
relievo. Behind the Exchange stands the Royal Bank. 

Walking down Gordon Street, from the Exchange, and 
turning to the right, we reach Sauchiehall Street, in which 
are situated the Corporation Galleries, containing the late 
Archibald McLellan's fine collection of ancient paintings, the 
marble statue of Pitt, by Chantrey, from the Old Town Hall, 
besides other art treasures. The entire district from this 
westward to the park contains numerous churches and chapels 
of great elegance, and, as we approach the park gate, the 
handsome residences of the Glasgow aristocracy. Kelvin Grove 
Park, or the West End Park, as it is now called, situated on the 
western bank of the Kelvin, has cost the corporation upwards of 
£ 1 co. coo, and, considering its situation and the manner in which 
it is laid cut, well deserves the estimation in which it is held by 



all Glasgow men. A short distance north of the park are the 
Botanic Gardens, which cannot fail to please. They are admira- 
bly laid out, have a fine collection of native and foreign plants, 
and are most picturesquely situated on the banks of the Kelvin. 

The Observatory 

stands at the southern extremity, commanding views of the 
New University, 

of the opposite bank of the stream, and of the city. The founda- 
tion of the university was laid by the Prince of Wales in 1868, 
and £"260,000 has been already expended on its erection ; but 
the central tower is not yet quite completed, nor are the great hall 
and hospital. Its style is of the Early English character, and 
its area, exclusive of the grounds, six acres. The buildings, 
which are fitted up with all the latest improvements in regard to 
heating and ventilation, were formally opened on the 7th Novem- 
ber, 1870. 

The principal railway stations are the Bridge Street station 
(Glasgow, South- Western, and Greenock Railways), a gloomy 
looking structure near the Broomielaw Bridge ; the Caledonian 
South-side station (for Bothwell and Hamilton) ; the Edinburgh 
and Glasgow station, in Dundas Street ; and the Caledonian, in 
Port Dundas Road. 



EXCURSION XVI II. 
HAMILTON AND BOTHWELL CASTLE. 

THE tourist will book at the Caledonian South-side station, 
which can be reached by omnibus. During the run from the 
South-side station to Rutherglen, a fine view is obtained by look- 
ing back over the river towards the Green, and its backgrounds 
of stores and factories. 

Rutherglen 
(pronounced Ruglen) is a quiet, rustic-looking town, except 
during the carnival at the annual horse-fair. Rutherglen Castle, 
once a famous stronghold, is now a complete ruin. The battle- 
field of Langside is quite close, and it was here, and not at 
Renfrew, as stated by Sir Walter Scott, that poor Mary was 
stopped in her flight, after witnessing the discomfiture of the 



Hamiltons and her other supporters. The church of Rutherglen 
is remarkable as the place where Wallace concluded a truce 
with the English in 1297, and where his betrayal was subse- 
quently arranged by Monteith. On the right of the line stands 
Castlewick House, where Mary slept the night before Langside. 
Approaching 

Cambuslang, 

the next station, of which town Loudon, the naturalist, was a 
native, we have the Clyde on our left. The village church, 
whose steeple forms a conspicuous object, was the scene of the 
great religious revivals in 1742. Soon after passing Cambuslang, 
the train takes the Hamilton branch-line, and, passing Blantyre 
Priory and bleaching-fields, draws near the suburbs of 

Hamilton 

[Hotels : ,c Commercial," "Douglas," and " Clydesdale"] 
(population 11,498). We are now in the midst of the iron and 
coal district, which at night has the appearance of a country 
on fire, in consequence of the number and magnitude of its 
foundries. 

Hamilton Palace, with its grounds, covers a very considerable 
area between the town and the river. The old palace was a 
simple structure, but the new front, 264 feet eight inches in 
length, consists of a projecting Corinthian portico, with two 
rows of columns : these columns are of Dalserf freestone, each 
of a single block, notwithstanding that they are twenty-five feet 
in height, and three feet three inches in diameter. The magni- 
ficence of the interior corresponds to the appearance of this 
noble front. The number of art treasures,- consisting of paint- 
ings, statues, etc., is so great that printed catalogues are laid in 
each room. Among the chefs-dceuvre may be mentioned Van- 
dyck's " Charles I.," besides many family portraits by the same 
distinguished artist ; portraits by Hamilton, Reynolds, Lely, 
Mytens, and others ; the " Entombment of Christ," by Poussin, 
also one by Titian on the same subject; Correggio's "Dying 
Madonna;" Snyder's "Stag-hunt; " together with a host of mis- 
cellaneous works by Rembrandt, Carlo Dolci, Guido, the Caracci, 
Salvator Rosa, Rubens, and Spagnoletto, amounting in all to 
2,000 pieces. Among the other objects of interest we may 
mention the travelling chest of Napoleon, a cabinet presented 
by the late Emperor of Prussia, and the cabinet and jewel-case 
of Mary Queen of Scots. But an attempt to exhaust the attrac- 
tions of the palace would fill a moderate-sized volume. W.«tf 
can only add that the furnishing of this magnificent residenr^h 
will surpass the highest anticipations of visitors. Within ^1 by 



BOTHWELL BRIDGE AND CASTLE. 487 

grounds are the handsome mausoleum, with its richly-decorated 
octagonal chapel, and the ruins of Cadzow Gastle, at the " Old 
Oaks " (supposed to be a remnant of the Caledonian Forest). 
Here are still preserved specimens of the original wild oxen of 
Scotland. These magnificent animals, which are nearly white 
in colour, are almost the only representatives remaining in this 
country of the primeval inhabitants of the forests. There is, 
however, a similar breed at Chillingham Castle, in* England, the 
seat of Lord Tankerville. 

On the opposite bank of the Avon, a tributary of the Clyde, is 
Chatelherault, an imitation ruin, erected in 1730, to represent a 
chateau of the same name in France, from which the Hamilton 
family take one of their titles. The walls of this chateau are 
decorated with wood-carving and stucco of the Louis Quatorze 
period. The whole of the district is so rich in soft rural land- 
scapes, and so famous for its orchards (notwithstanding the con- 
tiguity of the foundries), that it has been called the " Garden of 
Scotland." It also abounds in fine country seats. 

Two miles north of Hamilton the Clyde is spanned by the 
famous 

Bothwell Bridge, 

at the south side of which was fought the desperate battle 
between the Covenanters and the Royalist forces under the Duke 
of Monmouth, in the reign of Charles II. The graphic descrip- 
tion of this battle in Scott's Old Mortality will be familiar to 
most of our readers. At about a mile from the bridge, on the 
level ground extending from the northern bank of the river, stands 
Bothwellhaugh, the ancient seat of James Hamilton, the assassin 
of the Regent Murray. Nearer the bridge is the now fashionable 
village of Bothwell, the birthplace of the poetess Joanna Baillie. 
Between this and Uddingstone station, on the declivity of the 
north bank, is 

Bothwell Castle, 

the grandest feudal ruin in Scotland ; and on a lofty rock 
on the opposite shore stand the ruins of Blantyre Priory, which 
add considerably to the picturesqueness of the whole land- 
scape. The castle is of Norman architecture, and built of 
fine-grained red sandstone. It is 234 feet long by ninety- 
nine in breadth, and has a massive circular tower at each end. 
The walls are for the most part fourteen feet thick, and about 
sixty feet in height. The church occupied part of the east end : 
it may be recognised by its Gothic windows and lofty arched roof. 
Wordsworth says of the surrounding scene : ' ' We sat upon a 
bench under the hig[h trees, and had beautiful views of the dif- 



438 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 



ferent reaches of the river, above and below. On the opposite 
bank, which is finely wooded with elms and other trees, are the 
remains of a priory, built upon a rock, and rock and ruin are so 
blended that it is impossible to distinguish one from the other. 
Xothing can be more beautiful than the little remnant of this holy 
place ; elm trees grow out of the walls and overshadow a small 
but very elegant window. It can scarcely be conceived what a 
fome, the castle and priory impart to each other, and the river 
Clyde flows on smooth and unruffled below, seeming, to my 
thoughts, more in harmony with the stately images of former 
times than if it roared over a rocky channel, forcing its sound 
upon the ear. It blended gently with the warbling of the smaller 
birds, and the chattering of the larger ones, that had made their 
nests in the ruins. In this fortress the chief of the English 
nobility were confined after the battle of Bannockburn. If a man 
is to be a prisoner, he scarcely could have a more pleasant place to 
solace his captivity." 

The modern residence, Bothwell House, adjoins the ruin. It 
is of simple architecture, but large and commodious, consisting of 
a centre and two wings, built of the same red stone as the castle. 
The public apartments are very spacious, and in several of the 
rooms are excellent paintings, especially some portraits by 
Vandyck. The narrow single-arched bridge, spanning the 
South Calder, about a quarter of a mile from Bothwell Bridge, 
is believed to be of Roman origin. 

The tourist will now re-enter the train at the Uddingstone 
station, and return to Glasgow. 



SFXTION LVIL 

GLASGOW TO STIRLING, THE TROSSACHS, LOCH 
LOMOND, DUMBARTON, AND GLASGOW. 

HP HE tourist will book by the North British Railway, from the 
A Dundas Street or George Square stations. The ascent to 
Cowlairs is made through a long tunnel; Thence we proceed to 
Bishop Briggs, where may be seen, on either hand, the quarries 
from which most of the stone was brought with which Glasgow 
is built. In the neighbourhood is Robroyston, where William 
Wallace was betrayed into the hands of the English by the "fause 
Monteith." A branch runs northward to Campsie and Killearn. 



GREENIIILL JUNCTION— BANNOCKBURN. 4§9 

The next station is the Lenzie junction, about six miles from 
Glasgow. About six miles farther is Croy, near which, at 
Kilsyth, the Covenanters suffered a signal defeat in 1645. We 
now reach Castlecart, sixteen miles from Glasgow, where some 
traces of the Wall of Antoninus, which at one time intersected 
Scotland, following almost the same course as the present line of 
railway between Glasgow and Edinburgh, may be distinguished. 
In the glen of Red burn, below the station, the remains of the 
great Caledonian Forest are seen. Three miles beyond this 

Greenhill Junction 

is reached ; here carriages must be changed for Stirling. The 
train for the north now crosses the Grand Union Canal, and 
having on the right hand Camelon, formerly the capital of 
the Picts, but now a mere village, approaches Larbert, amid 
the glow of the Carron iron- works. About four miles from 
Greenhill and three and a half from Larbert, is Falkirk, at 
present remarkable for its great cattle trysts, and formerly the 
scene of two great battles — the one between Edward I. and 
William Wallace, in which the latter was defeated ; the other, 
in 1745, between the Highlanders, under Prince Charles Edward 
Stuart, and the royal forces, under General Hawley, in which 
fortune favoured the Scotch. In Larbert churchyard is buried 
the celebrated traveller, James Bruce. 

A little beyond. Larbert are two conical hills, called Dunipace 
(a hybrid word, from dun, a hill, and pax, the Latin for peace), 
traditionally supposed to have been constructed in commemoration 
of a peace between the Romans and the natives. The train now 
passes the remains of Pliny's Sylva Caledonia, a forest which at 
one time covered the entire area of the Highlands. Bannock- 
burn House, on the left-hand side of the line, was the head- 
quarters of Prince Charles Edward Stuart, previous to the battle 
of Falkirk. At a distance of six miles from Larbert, we reach 
the 

Bannockburn 

[Hotel: " Muirhead's "] 

station, immediately beyond which the great battle was fought, 
in 1 3 14. There is not much to be seen on the field, as all the 
positions can be equally well traced from Stirling Castle. Gillies 
Hill, St. Ninian's, and Brock's Brae were the points occupied 
by Bruce. The standard of independence stood on the summit 
of the brae, in a stone which may still be seen — the sole relic of 
the battle. It is called the "Bore Stone," and is now protected 
by an iron grating from the Vandalism of certain tourists, els e it 



490 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

must have shared the same fate as the first tombstone over the 
grave of Burns's father. 

About three miles south-west of this was fought the battle of 
Sauchieburn (1488), between James III. of Scotland and his 
insurgent nobles. The unfortunate king, in flying from the battle, 
was thrown from his horse, and being taken into a neighbouring 
mill, was subsequently murdered by one of the insurgents, who 
passed himself off as a priest. 

Approaching St. Ninian's station, a good view is had of 

Stirling 

[Hotels: "Royal," " Golden Lion/' and "Temperance"], 
which is considered to resemble Edinburgh, from a dis- 
tance ; but the likeness, if likeness there be, disappears as the 
tourist approaches nearer. The name is said to be derived from 
strivlin, "a place of strife." The castle, however, was formerly 
called Snowdoun (the Fortified Hill on the River), as we learn 
from Scott, — 

" For Stirling's tower 
Of yore the name of Snowdoun claims." 

The town, which has a population of 14,276, is picturesquely 
situated on a rising ground to the south of the Forth, over-looked 
by the castle, which crowns the ridge of the rocky eminence. 
The principal street, leading to the castle, is broad, and allows 
some views of the quaint old buildings of the ancient portion of 
the town. Amongst these maybe noticed "Mar's Work," an 
incongruous assemblage of Gothic corbels, quaint inscriptions, 
and decorated architecture of an ecclesiastical character, accounted 
for by the supposition that most of the materials were sacrile- 
giously taken from the ruins of Cambuskenneth Abbey, by the 
founder, the Regent Mar. A little farther on we pass " Argyle's 
Lodgings," once the residence of the Argyle family ; it originally 
belonged to Sir William Alexander, the poet, who was in 1632 
created Earl of Stirling. He originated the project for colonizing 
Nova Scotia, and obtained a grant of that vast territory. The 
building, which is a fine specimen of the early period of Scottish 
architecture, is now used as a military hospital. There are many 
other curious old houses in this quarter, most of them with quaint 
devices, and two other buildings which deserve to be noticed — 
the Greyfriars Church, founded in 1494, by James IV., and 
Cowan's Hospital. The former is a building in the Pointed 
Gothic Style, of a type, however, peculiar to Scotland, and more 
resembling the French than the English models. The old place 
has been hallowed by the preaching of Knox, James Guthrie, 
the " Martyr," and Ebenezer Erskine, the founder of the Secession 



STIRLING. 491 



Church of Scotland. It is divided now into two distinct churches, 
known respectively as East Church and West Church. Cowan's 
Hospital is a strange old edifice, crowned by a turret steeple, 
founded in 1638. The garden attached is worth visiting as a 
model of the old Dutch style, with regularly clipped trees and 
stone terraces. 

The Castle is entered from an esplanade by a drawbridge over 
two deep fosses. From Queen Anne's Battery, on the left, after 
entering, a splendid view is obtained ; it embraces Edinburgh, 
the Pentland, Ochil, and Lammermoor Hills, Falkirk, and 
Cambuskenneth Abbey. On the south can be seen the summit 
of Tinto and the Campsie Hills, and on the west the vale of 
Menteith, bounded by Ben Voirlich, Ben Lomond, Benvenue, 
and Ben-Ledi. From the battery on the right of the draw- 
bridge, you overlook Dunblane Cathedral, the Bridge of Allan, 
Airthrey Castle, Abbey Craig, the Wallace Monument, and the 
Heading Hill, the ancient place of execution. Here on the 
24th and 25th May, 1425, Murdock, Duke of Albany (who had 
been Regent during the captivity in England of the youthful 
prince James I. of Scotland), Duncan, the aged Earl of Lennox, 
his father-in-law, and his two sons, Walter and Alexander, were 
beheaded within sight of their own Castle of Doune. This point 
of observation is connected with the memory of the beautiful but 
unhappy Mary of Scotland by its name of "Queen Mary's View." 
But the most interesting feature in Stirling Castle is the Douglas 
Room, which is situated in that part of the building, to the south- 
east, which was built for his own residence by James V., and 
still bears the name of the Palace. Unfortunately the room was 
much damaged by fire in 1855, but it has been carefully restored, 
and is open to visitors. The name of the apartment refers to the 
fact that it was the scene of the assassination of William, Earl of 
Douglas, by the hand of the king himself. The Earl had openly 
defied all law and order, and had joined a league with the Earls 
of Ross and Crawford to support each other in all quarrels, not 
even excepting their sovereign from the possible consequences of 
their lawless compact. Under the protection of a safe conduct, 
James persuaded Douglas to visit him in Stirling Castle, and 
attempted to reason him out of his contumacy, but in vain. At 
length, losing all control, the king drew his dagger and stabbed 
the Earl, saying, " If thou wilt not break the bond, this shall ! " 
The unhappy man was despatched by the attendant nobles, and 
his body flung into the garden, where, in 1797, the skeleton was 
discovered during some excavations. On the west side of the 
quadrangle is a long building, which was formerly the Chapel 
Royal ; it is now used as an armoury. The C| Black Walk " 
extends round the castle and overlooks its ancient royal gardens, 



492 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

with the octagonal enclosure called the King's Knot, in which 
the courtiers used to engage in feats of arms. 

On leaving Stirling en route for Callander, the Highland 
mountains bound the view on the left-hand side of the rail ; while 
Abbey Craig, the Wallace Monument, and the Ochil Hills limit 
the prospect on the right, until the 

Bridge of Allan 

[Hotels : " Philip's Royal," " Queen's," and "Jack's Temperance "] 
is reached. This fashionable spa is delightfully situated in a 
wooded valley, sheltered on the north by the Ochil Hills. It 
derives its name from the river Allan, which is here crossed by 
a bridge. There is a handsome pump-room, and a hydropathic 
establishment is close by. The waters, which are considered 
very efficacious for scrofulous diseases, have an extremely bitter 
taste. The battle-field of Sherriffmuir lies away six miles to 
the north. The victory was claimed by the Earl of Mar, who 
represented Chevalier St. George, and also by the Duke of 
Argyle, who commanded the Royalists forces. 

Four miles beyond the Bridge of Allan, 

Dunblane 

[Hotels : " Kinross " and "Dunblane "] 
is reached, a picturesque old town, containing one of the few cathe- 
dral churches spared by the Reformers. The Church, which 
stands on the eastern bank of the Allan, overlooking the town, 
was founded by David I. in 1142, and restored by the Bishop of 
Dunblane a century later. It is still used as a parish church, 
and is in excellent preservation. The nave appears to be in an 
older style than the choir, and is probably part of the original 
structure of David. It is of the pointed Gothic character, and 
not so highly decorated as the choir. The western window, 
over the doorway, is a magnificent specimen of the Lanceolated 
style, and, with the exquisite little window in the gable will 
compare in beauty of proportion and design with anything in 
Melrose. The interior contains some fine monuments, and a 
double row of huge columns, supporting arches on which rise 
others. The building is 216 feet in length by seventy-seven in 
breadth, and the tower is 128 feet high. The most interesting 
objects in the church are three slabs of blue marble, said to be 
the memorials of three daughters of the first Lord Drummond, 
who were poisoned by the intrigue of the English party in Scot- 
land. The youngest, Margaret, whom it was desired to wed with 
the son of Henry VII., had been secretly married to James IV. 
The celebrated Archbishop Leighton was at one time Bishop 



DOUXE— CALLANDER. 493 

of Dunblane, and bequeathed his valuable library to the town : 
admission is granted on application. 

The line now turns off from Allan, westwards, towards 

Doune 

[Hotel : " Woodside "], 
a pretty village on the Teith, where the great roads running 
from Perth to Glasgow and from Fort William to Edinburgh 
intersect each other. The Teith is here crossed by a remarkably 
fine bridge of two arches, erected in 1535, by Spital, the tailor, 
who has also left behind some architectural monuments of his 
genius at Stirling. From the bridge there is a splendid view 
of Doune Castle, and the encircling hills on the north. The 
ruins of the castle stand on the neck of land formed by the 
junction of the Ardoch and Teith. It was one of the largest 
baronial residences in Scotland, and of extremely massive con- 
struction, the walls being for the most part ten feet thick. The 
principal tower is eighty feet high, and the entrance at its base 
still retains the ancient iron doorway. The great hall is roofless, 
and the chapel has all but disappeared. This castle was pro- 
bably built by the ambitious Murdoch, Duke of Albany, who 
usurped the regal power during the imprisonment in England of 
James I. It was subsequently occupied as a royal residence, and 
"Queen Mary's Hall" is still pointed out. The Castle is men- 
tioned in Scott's Lady of the Lake, Fitzjames, "the Knight of 
Snowdoun," being represented as having slept there the night 
previous to the combat between himself and Roderic Dhu. 

Leaving Doune, the train passes the Earl of Moray's seat of 
Doune Lodge on the right, behind which may be discried Ben 
Voirlich, Stuck-a-Chroan, and Uam Var. Keeping along the 
north bank of the Teith, we see on the left Lanrick Castle, and 
shortly after, Cambusmore, an old residence of the Buchanans, 
where Sir Walter Scott composed The Lady of the Lake. Two 
miles beyond this we reach 

Callander 

[Hotels : "Dreadnought" and " MacGregor's "], 
a village situated below the junction of two streams, which flow 
from Loch Lubnaig and Loch Vennachar, and whose united 
waters flow onward from this point under the name of the Teith. 
The village is small, and only interesting to the tourist as the 
first place going north at which he will hear Gaelic spoken, and 
as a convenient centre from which to make many pleasant excur- 
sions, and for the excellent view from the bridge of Benledi. 
The ascent of this mountain is generally begun from this point. 



494 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 
A visit may be made to the Roman Fort, and 

" Carchonzie's torrents' sounding shore," 

in the Vale of Bochastle, and to Bracklinn Falls, two miles on the 
opposite side of Callander. The falls are formed by the river 
Kelty, which here has forced a channel through a hill of red 
sandstone, and bursts through, realizing very sufficiently the de- 
scriptive lines of Thompson : — 

" Between two meeting hills it bursts away, 
Where rocks and woods o'erhang the turbid stream ; 
There gathering triple force, rapid and deep, 
It boils and wheels, and foams, and thunders through." 

Bracklinn is a dangerous place, and great care is requisite, as 
the edges are unprotected and slippery, and the fall fifty feet 
high. The chasm is crossed by a rude bridge of planks, pro- 
tected by hand-rails, from which, some twenty-five years ago, a 
man and woman belonging to a wedding-party fell into the 
seething waters, and were, of course, drowned. 

Returning from the Roman Camp, a splendid view of Benledi 
is obtained. The hill closes the prospect to the west, and towers 
to the height of 3,009, according to some, or, more correctly, to 
2,863, f eet above the sea-level. The route to Loch Lomond is 
from Callander by the coach, via the Trossachs. 

Crossing the river Leny at Kilmahog Bridge, the route lies 
by the Vale of Bochastle, from whence may be seen Samson's 
Putting Stone, a huge boulder on the side of an opening of 
Benledi. Next past Dunmore, where there are remains of an 
old British fort, surrounded by three tiers of ditches and mounds, 
the latter strengthened and secured with stones, and provided 
with a reservoir for water. Approaching Loch Vennachar to the 
south, where now stand the ruins of an old mill, flows the 
Teith, and in that locality is Coilantogle Ford, to which Roderick 
Dim, in the Ladyoftlie Lake, pledged his word to lead Fitzjames 
in safety. A bridge leads across the ford, and soon after Loch 
Vennachar bursts upon the view. Two miles above Coilantogle, 
at Miltown, is the beautiful cascade of a mountain torrent. It is 
undeniable that the scenery in this place has suffered, in a pic- 
turesque sense, on account of the erection by the Glasgow Water 
Company of artificial works in connection with the mills on the 
Teith, as they were forced to raise the banks of Loch Ven- 
nachar several feet, to form the necessary reservoir. The route 
now retraces the course of the fiery cross, as it passes along the 
northern shores of the loch. 

The tourist is now close to the spot where, after the whistle of 
Roderick Dhu, before the wondering gaze of Fitzjames — 



CALLANDER— THE TR OSS A CHS. 495 

" Instant through copse and heath arose 
Bonnets, and spears, and bended bows : 
On right, on left, above, below." 

The level ground lying between Lochs Achray and Vennachar 
is Lanrick Mead, the muster-place to which the symbol of 
the fiery cross bade the members of Clan Alpine. Loch Ven- 
nachar is five miles in length and one and a half in breadth, 
with two small islands upon its bosom. As the coach approaches 
" Duncraggan's huts," an eminence is reached, from which a 
splendid vista, terminating in Ben Venue and the Trossachs, is 
opened to the admiring gaze. "Duncraggan's Huts " now appear, 
and here formerly stood the New Trossachs Hotel. It was, how- 
ever, destroyed by fire some years since, and has not been rebuilt. 
The coach now draws near Glenfinlas on the right, and passes 
the Brigg of Turk, where Fitzjames discovered he had outpaced 
all his followers. The deer forest of Glenfinlas is the property 
of the Earl of Moray, and is greatly esteemed on account of the 
extent and richness of its pasture. About one mile up Glenfinlas 
is the cataract of the "Hero's Targe," well worth a visit, if oppor- 
tunity permits. Leaving the Brigg of Turk behind, the coach 
quickly traverses the two miles of road which run along the 
northern shore of lovely Loch Achray, sometimes at an elevation 
of fifty feet, sometimes bordered so thickly by trees as to shut out 
all sight of the water. Views of the Trossachs are caught as 
we approach the pass from the headland jutting into Loch 
Achray. The copse clothes its shores from the water's brink to 
the summit of the steepest rock. The road now approaches the 
Trossachs Hotel, near the entrance to the far-famed 

Trossachs. 

The hotel is a handsome modern castellated building, com- 
manding some fine prospects. The accommodation is excellent, 
and although the situation may at first be thought to be some- 
what secluded, the visitor need not grudge a stay of several days. 
Delightful excursions may be made on foot to many notable 
spots in the neighbourhood — such, for instance, as Glenfinlas 
or Aberfoyle — and there is much to be seen, in connection with 
the neighbouring lochs and mountains, which will repay the lover 
of nature. The scenery is accurately described in the Lady of 
the Lake. Indeed, the whole place has become so imbued with 
the spirit of the poem that the guides actually profess to identify 
the place, as if the romance had been matter of history ! 

The Pass of the Trossachs is now entered— 

"A narrow inlet, still and deep, 
Affording scarce such breadth of brim 
As served the wild duck's brood to swim." 



496 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

It is about a mile long, and receives its name from the manner 
in which its almost perpendicular sides "bristle" with trees of 
every description. Before the construction of the present road 
there was "no mode of issuing out of the defile," says Scott, 
"excepting by a sort of ladder composed of the branches and 
roots of trees : " — 

" No pathwav met the -wanderer's view, 
Unless he climb'd with footing nice 
A far projecting precipice : 
The broom's tough roots his ladder made, 
The hazel saplings lent their aid." 

To the right of the road is a deep morass, named the " Witches' 
Bog." A sombre and narrow defile, about half a mile in length, 
between two ramparts of jagged and rent rock, and overhung 
with shrubs and old trees, whose gnarled arms and mossy trunks 
shoot out on every hand, introduces us to Loch Katrine, not at 
first in its full magnificence, but about twenty yards further it 
bursts upon us in all its glory. This ravine, too, is the supposed 
place where Fitzjames's "gallant grey " 

" Stretch'd his stiff limbs, to rise no more," 

and fell exhausted with the prolonged chase, leaving his master 
to wander on foot. 

Loch Katrine 

and Ellen's Isle, with all its wooded honours, now come into view. 
The latter lies but a short distance up the loch, and within a few 
minutes' sail of the pretty little pier whence the steamer starts. 
Here the tourist can procure a rowing boat and proceed, by Coir- 
nan-Uriskin, or the " Goblin Cave," and Bealach-nam-Bo, to the 
romantic retreat which Scott has made the home of the "Lady." 
Rowing along the southern shore from the extremity of the pass, 
in which the Knight of Snowdoun first lost himself, the visitor, 
gazing upwards, for the first time realizes the full grandeur of 
Ben Venue, 2,863 feet high, from which numerous streamlets 
pour down between the rocky defiles. Among these, at the base 
of the mountain, is Coir-nan-Uriskin, "a deep circular amphi- 
theatre of at least six hundred yards of extent in its upper dia- 
meter, gradually narrowing towards the base, hemmed in all 
round by steep and towering rocks, and rendered impenetrable 
to the rays of the sun by a close covert of luxuriant trees " (Dr. 
Graham). 

" By many a bard, in Celtic tongue, 
Has Coir-nan-Uriskin been sung : 
A softer name the Saxons gave, 
And called the grot the GcLT.n Cr.vc." 




LOCH KATRINE AND BEN VENUl 



LOCH KATRINE— STRONACHLACHAR PIER. 497 

Behind the precipitous ground above this cave, at a height of 
eight hundred feet, is the magnificent glen, overhung with birch 
trees, called Bealach-iiam-Bo, or the "Pass of the Cattle," 
through which the cattle carried away in a foray on the Lowlands 
were driven to the shelter of the Trossachs. 

"Above the Goblin Cave they go, 
Through the wild pass of Beal-nam-Bo," 

The ascent of Ben Venue is made from the Pass of Cattle, 
along the course of a mountain torrent. Loch Katrine stands 
four hundred feet above the sea ; it is about ten miles in length, 
and in some parts five hundred feet in depth. 

Embarking in the steamer which traverses this lake, from the 
Trossachs Pier to Stronachlachar, the tourist is earned close to 
Ellen's Isle, which seems to float in beauty on the water. On 
each side lofty mountains rear their heads towards the sky, and 
as the steamer passes between these Brobdignagian guardians 
of "Ellen's Isle," we have Breanchoil, Letter, Edraleachdach, 
Strongarvalty, Ardmacmuin, Coilchrae, and Portnanellan, on the 
right ; with Glasschoil, Calogart, and, more distantly, Bencho- 
chan, on the left. The white gravelled bay under Breanchoil, 
called "Silver Sand," was the scene of the meeting represented 
as taking place between Ellen Douglas and the disguised king, 
after the latter had lost his steed. 

Soon the vessel approaches, on the right hand side, at the 
head of the lake, several thickly wooded islets, on one of 
which are the ruins of MacGregor's Castle, and spread before 
and around is a vista which for perfection of beauty rivals, if it 
does not excel, any other scene in the whole of Scotland. Be- 
hind expands the lake in all its varied beauty, and on either hand 
rise the giant mountains Ben Venue and Ben An ; but of these 
there could not probably be a better description than has been 
given by Sir Walter Scott, and we may therefore dispense with 
any attempt at doing again what has already been done so well. 

A passing glimpse is obtained of Ben Lomond on the left, 
shortly after which we reach 

Stronachlachar Pier, 

situated on a pretty bay near the western extremity of the lake. 
At the hotel an open coach is waiting to convey tourists to In- 
versnaid on Loch Lomond. 

Halfway to Inversnaid we meet with Loch Arklet, completely 
obscured by the shadow of Ben Lomond, from which the Arkill 
flows, falling into Loch Lomond at the inn of Inversnaid, where 
it forms a beautiful cascade. A little beyond is the Fort of In- 
versnaid, erected for the purpose of keeping in check the lawless 



498 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

depredations of the MacGregors under Rob Roy. Here General 
Wolfe, the hero of the siege of Montreal, was at one time 
quartered. Two houses are pointed out on the way as the former 
residence of Rob Roy and the birthplace of Helen MacGregor. 
A mile further is the Inversnaid Hotel, a comfortable retreat, 
erected in 1848, from which, as all the steamers stop here, many 
pleasant excursions can be made. The cascade of the. Arkill is 
best seen from the lake, as it is so close upon its shore that its 
beauties cannot be properly appreciated by a spectator standing 
on terra fir ma ; the fall is about 30 feet. 

The Tarbet Inn, on the opposite shore of Loch Lomond, is 
also an excellent centre from which to investigate the attractive 
district of the lake. We take up the description of Loch Lomond 
from Balloch, where the tourist must take the train for the Clyde 
and Glasgow. 

Loch Lomond. 

Loch Lomond is about twenty-three miles long, and, at the 
southern extremity, six broad ; thence it gradually narrows, until 
it becomes a little broader than the Clyde below the Broomielaw. 
Its depth increases as its breadth grows less, and at the base of 
Ben Lomond is little under 120 fathoms. The area of the lake 
is 20,000 acres, and its elevation is twenty-two feet above the 
level of the sea. There are thirty-two islands, of various sizes 
and outlines, scattered over its surface, the principal being Inch- 
murren, Inch Lonaig, Inch Tavanach (" the Isle of Monks"), and 
Inch Cailliach ("the Isle of Nuns "). They belong, for the most 
part, to the Duke of Montrose, who uses Inchmurren, the 
largest, as a deer park. Inch Lonaig is remarkable for the old 
yew trees which are growing on it, and, as well as Inch Tavanach, 
has frequently been converted into a sort of improvised sanatorium, 
where confirmed drunkards have been sent with a view of curing 
them of their vicious habits. Another island is Inch Cailliach, 
celebrated as having been the burying-place of the MacGregors. 
" Upon the halidom of him that sleeps beneath the gray stone at 
Inch Calliach ! " was a favourite oath among the members of that 
warlike clan. Numerous monuments belonging to that family 
still remain on the island. Our readers will doubtless remember 
that, when Roderick Dhu sent forth the fiery cross, 

" The shafts and limbs were rods of yew, 
Whose parents in Inch Cailliach wave 
Their shadows o'er Clan Alpine's grave ; 
And answering Lomond's breezes deep 
Soothe many a chieftain's endless sleep." 

These islands are the characteristic features of Loch Lomond. 
They are finely wooded, and add greatly to the beauty of the 



LOCH L03I0XD. 499 



scenery. On both the east and west sides of the lake rise 
precipitous mountains, the loftiest of which, Ben Lomond, 
ascends from the water's edge to the height of about 3,000 feet. 
McCulloch styles Loch Lomond "the pride of the Scottish 
lakes." 

As the steamer leaves Balloch, the tourist will notice on his 
right the ruins of the Lennoxes' old stronghold, Balloch Castle, 
then Butruich Castle; while on the left — " bosomed high amid 
tufted trees " — are the handsome country seats, Auchendennan, 
Cameron House, Aucheneglish, and Arden. But we will allow 
Professor Wilson to describe the beauty of this, the " epitome of 
all the other lakes." "Along the margin of the water," he says, 
" as far as Luss-ay, and much farther, the variations of the fore- 
ground are incessant. Had it no other beauties, it has been 
said, but those of its shores, it would still be an object of 
prime attraction — whether from the bright green meadows, 
sprinkled with luxuriant ash trees, that sometimes skirt its 
. margin ; or its white pebbled shores, on which its gentle bil- 
lows murmur, like a miniature ocean ; or its bold rocky pro- 
montories, rising from the dark water, rich in wild flowers and 
ferns, and tangled with wild roses and honeysuckles ; or its 
retired bays, where the waves dash, reflecting like a mirror the 
trees which hang over them, an inverted landscape. The islands 
are for ever arranging themselves into new forms, every one 
more and more beautiful ; at least so they seem to be, per- 
petually occurring, yet always unexpected ; and there is pleasure 
even in such a series of slight surprises that enhances the delight 
of admiration. And alongside, or behind us, all the while, are 
the sylvan mountains, laden with beauty ; and ever and anon 
open glens widen down upon us from chasms, or forest glades 
lead our hearts away into the inner gloom — perhaps our feet ; 
and there, in a field that looks not as if it had been cleared by 
his own hands, but left clear by nature, a wood-man's hut. Half 
way between Luss and Tarbet the water narrows, but it is 
still wide. The new road, we believe, winds round the point of 
Farkin ; the old road boldly scaled the height, as all old roads 
loved to do. Ascend it, and bid the many-isled vision, in all 
its greatest glory, farewell. Thence upwards prevails the spirit 
of the mountains. The lake is felt to belong to them, to be 
subjected to their will — and that is capricious ; for sometimes 
they suddenly blacken it when at its brightest, and sometimes, 
when its gloom is like that of the grave, as if at their bidding, all 
is light. We cannot help attributing the skyey influences which 
occasion such wonderful effects on the water to prodigious 
mountains, for we cannot look on them without feeling they 
reign over the solitude they compose. The lights and shadows 



5oo LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

flung by the sun and the clouds imagination assuredly regards as 
put forth by the vast objects which they colour ; and we are 
inclined to think some such belief is essential in the profound 
awe, often amounting to dread, with which we are inspired by 
the presence of mere material forms. But be this as it may, 
the upper portion of Loch Lomond is felt by all to be most 
sublime. Near the head all the manifold impressions of the 
beautiful, which for hours our mind had been receiving, begin to 
fade, as if some gloomy change has taken place in the air — there is 
a total obliteration, and the mighty scene before us is felt to possess 
not the hour merely, but the day. Yet should sunshine come 
and abide awhile, beauty will even glimpse upon us here, for 
green pastures will smile vividly, high up among the rocks. The 
sylvan spirit is serene the moment it is touched with light ; and 
here there is not only many a fair tree by the waterside, but yon 
old oak wood will look joyful on the mountain, and the gloom 
become glimmer in the profound abyss. Wordsworth says 'that 
it must be more desirable, for the purposes of pleasure, that lakes 
should be numerous, and small or middle-sized than large, not 
only for communication by walks and rides, but for variety, and 
for the recurrence of similar appearances.' The Highlands 
have them of all sizes — and that, surely, is best. But here is 
one which, it has been truly said, is not only incomparable in its 
beauty as in its dimensions, exceeding ail others in variety as it 
does in extent and splendour, but unites in itself every style of 
scenery which is found in the other lakes of the Highlands ! He 
who has studied, and understood, and felt all Loch Lomond, 
will be prepared at once to enjoy any other fine lake he looks 
on; nor will he admire nor love it the less though its chief 
character should consist in what forms but one part of that wonder 
in which all kinds of beauty and sublimity are combined." 

On the eastern shore is the Pier of Balmaha, where the steamer 
stops to land and take in passengers. Here is the famous pass 
through which the Highland clans poured in their descents on the 
Lowlands. The steamer now crosses the lake, amid a host of 
rocky islets, towards the picturesque village of Luss, situated at 
the entrance to a glen of the same name. 

This neighbourhood was the scene of those bloody contests 
between the MacGregor and Colquhoun clans, which termi- 
nated so evilly for both. From Luss the steamer recrosses 
the lake to Rowardennan Pier, where the tourist must land 
if he wishes to make the ascent of 

Ben Lomond. 

Guides and ponies can be had at the inn, from which the sum- 
mit — by the path, which ponies traverse the entire way — is but four 



BEN LOMOND— LOCH LONG. 501 

miles distant, and the view from an elevation of 3,175 feet can 
be better imagined than described. It embraces, northwards, the 
countless Grampian Hills, which seem piled one upon the other; 
eastward, Stirlingshire, the river Forth, Stirling Castle, and Edin- 
burgh Castle ; southward, Tinto (the Hill of Fire), Ailsa Craig, 
Glasgow, Dumbarton Castle, and the islands of Bute and Arran ; 
while farther west in the dim distance, the Isle of Man and 
Ireland appear ; due westward lie the ocean and the Hebrides ; 
beneath, Loch Lomond, appearing little bigger than a pond. 
The visitor, however, must account himself fortunate if he can 
behold this superb prospect, for the weather in these mountainous 
districts is extremely variable, and Ben Lomond, as a rule, 

" Through shrouding mists looks dimly down ; 
For though perchance his piercing eye 
Doth read the secrets of the sky, 
His lengthy bosom scorns to show 
Those secrets to the world below." 

Should this be so, the tourist will resume his voyage coasting 
along the base of he mountain, which is beautified by 

" Close woven shades, with varying grace, 
And crag and cavern." 

He now passes Rob Roy's Rock, which rises almost perpendi- 
cularly from the water to the height of thirty feet. From this 
Rob Roy used to lower his captives into the lake with a rope 
round their bodies, plunging them in and out of the water until 
they promised to pay the ransom demanded. 

From this point the steamer steers across towards Tarbet, 
where the tourist can land and proceed to Arrochar (about twp 
miles), at the head of 

Loch Long, 

whence he can return by steamer to Glasgow, or he can take the 
coach through Glencroe to Inverary. But we should recommend 
him to continue on board the boat, and view the head of the loch. 
Leaving Tarbet, the steamer again crosses to the opposite shore, to 
Inversnaid. The Arkell cascade can be seen from the deck of the 
vessel. The steamer, however, continues her course past Rob 
Roy's Cave, where that redoubted freebooter had often to seek 
shelter from his pursuers. It was also the resting-place of The 
Bruce, in his flight after the disastrous battle of Dairy. At this 
portion of the lake, the scenery is entirely Alpine in its character. 
The now narrow waters of the loch are overlooked by Ben An 
and Ben Voirlich, both rising more than 3,000 feet above the 
level of the sea. Passengers are here landed, on the left-hand 
or western shore, at the head of the lake, whence the tourist may 



502 LONDON' AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

proceed to Inverarnan, as a starting-point ; the tourist may then 
take a coach either to Oban, via Loch Awe, or to Aberfeldy, vid 
Killin and Loch Tay. 

These wild fastnesses of the north-western shores of Loch 
Lomond were the headquarters of the MacFarlanes, who never 
tired of pouring down on the fertile plains of the Lowlands and 
sweeping away their booty. The usual rendezvous was the shore 
of Loch Sloy, a gloomy tarn, near the base of Ben Voirlich. As 
their descents were always made at night, the moon is prover- 
bially known in the district as " MacFarlane's lantern." 

If the tourist decide to visit Arrochar and Loch Long, he 
must take up the route at Tarbet. The road of two miles 
from the one loch to the other lies over a hill, from which a 
fine view is had of the peculiar-shaped mountain called the 
"Cobbler," of which McCulloch says, "The resemblance is 
preserved in all its integrity, even to the base of the precipice ; 
but the whimsical effect of the form is there almost obliterated 
by the magnificence of those bold rocks, towering high above, 
and perched, like the still more noble Scuir of Eig, on the 
utmost ridge of the mountain." At Arrochar the tourist once 
more embarks, and glides down the sinuous extent of Loch Long, 
passing on the western shore Argyle's Bowling-green, and Loch 
Goil, an armlet of the sea, running inland in a north-westerly 
direction from the shore of Loch Long. This loch has been 
immortalized by Campbell in his touching ballad of Loi'd 
Ulliifs Daughter. On the same side, a little farther down, is 
Holy Loch, opposite which the lamentable collision between the 
Comet and another steamer resulted in the loss of fifty lives. 
The boat now approaches the mouth of the loch. On the western 
extremity stands the fashionable watering-place of 

Dunoon 

[Hotels : "Argyll," " Crown," and " Royal"], 

the ruins of the once famous Dunoon Castle occupy a precipitous 
rock near the pier. The rock was first fortified by the Norsemen, 
and subsequently belonged to the High Stewards of Scotland, 
passing through many vicissitudes until bestowed on the Camp- 
bells, the present noble family of Argyle. Queen Mary resided 
here in 1563, while on a visit to her sister, the Countess of 
Argyle. Taking up the route to Glasgow at 

Balloch, 

where the train takes up the passengers close to the Loch pier, 
we pass on to the next stage of the journey, Dumbarton, through 
the Yale of Leven. In this valley, in the parish of Cardross, was 



born Dr. Tobias Smollett, the historian and novelist. A Tuscan 
column connects the memory of the author of Roderick Randm 
with his native vale. He has celebrated his birthplace in the 
sweet ode commencing — 

"On Leven's banks, while free to rove 
And tune the rural pipe to love — 
Pure stream, in whose transparent wave 
My youthful limbs I used to lave, 
No torrent stains thy limpid source, 
No rocks impede thy dimpling course, 
That sweetly warbles o'er its bed, 
With white, round, polish'd pebbles spread : 
Devolving from thy parent lake, 
A charming maze thy waters make. 
By bowers of birch and groves of pine, 
And hedges flower'd with eglantine." 

A journey of four miles and a half, through Alexandria, 
Renton, and Dalreoch, takes the traveller to 

Dumbarton 

[Hotel : ' ' Elephant "]. 
The town has a population of 11,414, and carries on a con- 
siderable trade, chiefly in ship building, many of the largest ocean 
steamers being here constructed in the world-famed yards of the 
Dennys' and others ; but there is nothing save the castle to interest 
the tourist. Dumbarton Rock is situated at the mouth of the 
Leven. The name was originally Dum-Briton (the Fort of the 
Britons), of which Dumbarton is a corruption ; it was the head- 
quarters of that ancient people. The rock on which it is built 
rises abruptly to the height of 560 feet, and divides into two 
summits, one of which is named "Wallace's Seat." In the for- 
tress this hero was confined after his betrayal by the ' ' fause 
Monteith," and his two-handed sword, measuring five feet six 
inches, may be seen in the armoury. The view from the summit, 
which is ascended by a stair built in a natural cleft in the rock, 
is exceedingly fine, including a great extent of the Clyde, with 
Greenock and Port Glasgow, and extending northwards to the 
mountains and lochs of Argyle, Loch Lomond, Ben Lomond, 
and the Vale of Leven. From Dumbarton the most pleasant 
route to Glasgow is up the Clyde, a description of which will 
be found on page 537, though the effect at night, when the 
tourist will probably make the trip, as the river side is illumi- 
nated by the factory fires, is very different to the daylight aspect, 
though equally picturesque. Passing through the numerous ves- 
sels which line the quays of the river, the boat slowly slackens 
her paddles at the wharf at the Broomielaw, Glasgow, already 
described on pages 480 to 485. 



504 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 



EXCURSION XIX. 

STIRLING TO CAMBUSKENNETH ABBEY, RUMBLING 
BRIG, CASTLE CAMPBELL, etc. 

WHILE at Stirling (page 490), the tourist should not fail to 
visit the many objects of interest in the neighbourhood. 
These include, in addition to the places described in the pre- 
ceeding pages, Cambuskenneth Abbey, distant a mile and a 
half ; Rumbling Brig and Castle Campbell, sixteen miles, etc. 

Cambuskenneth Abbey 

is one of many founded by David I. 1 147. It was one of 
the largest and wealthiest in Scotland. A remnant of the walls 
and a belfry tower, twenty feet high, are all that are now left of 
the structure. James III. and his wife Margaret were interred 
near the high altar ; their remains were discovered in the year 
1864, when her Majesty Queen Victoria erected a monument 
on the spot. The rocky eminence rising behind the abbey to 
the height of 560 feet is crowned by a monumental tower to 
William Wallace, which is open to the public, and will repay a 
visit for the enjoyable prospects it affords of the maze-like wind- 
ings of the Forth ; it is 220 feet high, and is surmounted by an 
open crown. 

The excursion to the Rumbling Brig can now be made by the 
Devon Valley Railway. To the left of the line lie the Ochil 
range of mountains. On that side also is passed the castellated 
mansion, then belonging to Mr. Sheriff Tait, in which Burns 
resided for a time, and where he composed his poems of " How 
pleasant the banks of the clear winding Devon," and " Sweetest 
Maid on Devon's banks. " 

Dollar 
is principally remarkable for its academy, erected by the late Mr. 
McNab, a native of the parish, at a cost of ^"10. coo, while its 
endowments amount to ,£90,000. 

Castle Campbell, 

or the Castle of Gloom, occupies the precipitous projection of a 
portion of the Ochil range. The castle was dismantled by the 
Duke of Montrose, on his way to the battle of Kilsyth, and the 
donjon keep alone remains entire, from the top of which the whole 
district southwards may be seen. Four miles east stands the 



RUMBLING BRIG—LOCH MENTEITH, ETC. 505 



Rumbling Brig, 

so called from the noise made by the stream beneath. The 
original Rumbling Brig (built in 17 13 to replace a very shaky 
wooden one) may be seen below the present fine structure. As 
it consisted but of a single narrow arch, eighty-six feet above 
the channel of the river and without parapets, it could hardly 
have been safer than the wooden bridge. The bridge now used 
is a hundred and twenty feet above the stream, and commands 
some of the most superb prospects in the Highlands. The 
Devon, which flows beneath, makes its descent from the Ochil 
heights almost entirely by two falls — the Devil's Mill and the 
Cauldron Linn, two of the finest cascades in Scotland. 

Having feasted his eyes on the weird beauties of the bridge and 
its surroundings, the tourist may be tempted to proceed six miles 
farther eastward, to Kinross and Loch Leven, and visit the scene 
of Queen Mary's imprisonment and romantic escape, so graphic- 
ally described in Sir Walter Scott's novel. 

Loch Leven Castle 

now in a ruinous condition — is of almost fabulous age, its erec- 
tion having been ascribed to a British king. This lake must not 
be confounded with one of a similar name, near the Pass of 
Glencoe. It used to be written Eleven, and the title is supposed 
to have been given to it in consequence of the number eleven 
occurring so frequently in the old descriptions. It is eleven miles 
in circumference ; it is fed by eleven streams ; eleven kinds 
of fish are caught in its waters ; eleven chiefs' lands surrounded 
it ; and on the eleven estates grew eleven kinds of trees. 
The excursion to 

Loch Menteith and Aberfoyle 

is made by taking the Forth and Clyde Railway to Port Menteith 
or Bucklyvie station. This loch is remarkable for the softness 
of its beauty and colouring. It is oval shaped, contains two 
densely wooded islands, and is about seven miles in circum- 
ference. On Talla Island are the ruins of the baronial fortress 
of the Earl of Menteith ; on the other and more interesting islet, 
Inchmahome, or the " Island of Rest," stand the remains of the 
Priory of Inchmahome, where the princess Mary, then only four 
years of age, was brought after the battle of Pinkie. If the 
tourist desires to visit Aberfoyle and Loch Ard in this excur- 
sion, he should book to Bucklyvie, not Port Menteith. Coaches 
are always in waiting for the trains, to carry tourists to the lakes ; 
but if there be a party it will be better to take a special car. 



506 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 



SECTION LVIII. 

GLASGOW TO EDINBURGH BY CALEDONIAN RAILWAY, 

LEAVING Glasgow by the Buchanan Street station, on the 
direct route to the metropolitan city of Scotland, the stations 
passed are Stepps Road, Garnkirk, Gartcosh, Gartsherrie, Coat- 
bridge, Whifflet, Holytown, Newarthill (where is a short branch 
through Cleland and Newmains to Morningside), Bellside, Shotts 
(the seat of extensive ironworks), Fauldhouse, Breich, Westcalder 
(where there is an old fort, and many Roman coins were dis- 
covered), New Park, and 

Midcalder 
[Hotel: "The Lemon Tree"], 
a pretty little place (population 579), situated on the river 
Almond. In the neighbourhood are a few places of interest. At 
Calder House, Knox first administered the Sacrament after the 
Reformation, and the memory of that event is perpetuated by a 
fine portrait of the great Reformer, preserved with religious care. 
Greenbank was the native place of Archbishop Spottiswood, the 
church historian. The ruins of Lennox Tower (the residence of 
Queen Mary and Darnley) and Baberton should also be visited. 
The latter was the hunting seat of James VI., and Charles X. of 
France resided there for a time, after the revolution of 1830 
Next follow Currie, Kingsknowe, and Slateford, after which the 
train enters 

EDINBURGH. 

Hotels: "Slaney's Douglas," 35, St. Andrew Square, next Royal Bank 
" Royal," 53, Princes Street, opposite Scott's Monument ; " Edinburgh," 
36, Princes Street, opposite Waverley Station ; "Balmoral," 91, Princes 
Street, next New Club ; "Hotel Francais," 100, Princes Street ; "Cale- 
donian,' 1, Castle Street, corner of Princes Street ; " Clarendon," 104, 
Princes Street; "Palace," no, Princes Street; "Alma," 112, Princes 
Street ; " Kennedy's," 8, Princes Street, close to Post Office ; "Waterloo," 
24, Waterloo Place ; " Waverley Temperance," 43, Princes Street] 

Hackney Carriages. — For a distance from the stand not exceeding a mile and 
a half, is., and 6d. for every additional half-mile. Half-fare returning. — ■ 
By time, is. for first half-hour, and 6d. for every additional quarter of an 
hour. — For a table of fares to and from the different places in and about 
Edinburgh, and for a fuller account of this fine city, see Shaw's shilling Guide 
to Edinburgh. — Tourists will find the new tramway omnibuses, which have 
recently commenced running, of great service. The lines extend from the 
Caledonian Railway Station to Leith, and take in many of the principal 
streets of the New Town. From the roof of the tram a fine view can be had. 
Edinburgh, the capital of Scotland, has a population of 

196,500 inhabitants, and is universally admitted to be one of the 

most beautiful cities in Europe, whether in its panoramic 



EDINBURGH. 507 



views, handsome buildings, or picturesque site. It is situated 
within two miles of the Firth of Forth. On the east it is 
overlooked by Salisbury Crags and Arthur's Seat ; on the 
south-west by the Hills of Braid, Blackford, and Pentland ; 
and on the north-west by the Hill of Corstorphine. From 
the last, wooded to the top, are seen some most enchanting 
views of the town. The city is built upon a series of ridges 
or hills, giving to it a remarkably undulating appearance. 
The first and highest hill, crowned by the castle, gradually 
declines eastward towards Holyrood Palace, on which ridge 
and its slopes is built the Old Town of Edinburgh. The 
second, commencing to the south-west of the castle, is of 
smaller elevation, and runs in a south-east line to the foot of 
Salisbury Crags ; while to the north, again, is the third ridge, 
upon which nearly all the New Town is built : this runs 
nearly due east and west, terminating at the Calton Hill, and 
slopes gradually on the north side towards the Firth of Forth. 
Strangers are much struck by the view of the Old from the 
New Town, the houses towering one above the other, in con- 
sequence of the inequalities of the ground, which imparts to 
the ancient city a picturesque diversity of outline, and the piles 
of massive old masonry, forming the range of buildings from 
the valley up to the High Street, which covers the entire side 
and summit of the hill from the castle to Holyrood. The 
ramparts of the castle, the Calton Hill, and the footpath on 
Salisbury Crags will be found the best points for viewing the 
city and surrounding country, from either of which the Old 
and New Town are seen in beautiful contrast to one another. 
Some of the more distant views are no less celebrated. In 
Marmion Sir Walter Scott has chosen that from Blackford 
Hill. We ourselves prefer the summit of Craiglockhart. But 
perhaps the most popular is that from "Rest and be thankful," 
a stone seat on the eastern side of the Hill of Corstorphine, 
placing the distant architecture of the city, with its castle, 
crags, and church spires, beneath the eye in minute and 
miniature exactness. 

The old part of the town — from the castle down to the 
head of the Canongate, and known by the names of the Lawn- 
market and the High Street — was originally the only part 
surrounded by the city wall, afterwards extended, of which 
remains may still be seen in Drummond Street, Bristo, and 
the Vennel in Lauriston, where as a boundary wall of the 
Heriot's Hospital grounds a considerable portion remains, 
including what is nowhere else seen, one of the watch-towers 
which existed at fixed distances round the whole original 
wall : this one is in a very good state of preservation. In the 



5o8 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

fifteenth century, and up to the time of the Union, many of 
the nobility lived in the High Street and Canongate ; but 
after the removal of the Government to London, they soon 
deserted these localities. Towards the middle of last century 
the New Town was begun, and has gradually grown into the 
extensive range of streets and squares which now meets the 
eye of the spectator. 

The population of Edinburgh and Leith, according to the 
census of 1871, was 240,777. 

In a central position between the Old and New Town, in 
the East Princes Street Garden, stands the 

Scott Monument, 

which we propose making our starting-point in the four 
walks through the city. This picturesque structure is in 
the shape of an open spire, 200 feet in height. An in- 
terior staircase ascends to a gallery a few feet from the top, 
which affords a most pleasing bird's-eye view of the city. 
Under the lower ground-arch is the statue of Sir Walter 
Scott with his favourite dog Maida, by Steell, in grey Carrara 
marble. The five figures occupying the niches above the 
arches are, Prince Charles Edward, Meg Merrilees, the Last 
Minstrel, the Lady of the Lake, and George Heriot. It is 
proposed to fill all the niches with figures, illustrating charac- 
ters from the works of Scott ; and a lofty room above the first 
arch is to be used to contain relics of the poet, and a collection 
of every edition of his writings which can be obtained. 

The architect — Mr. George M. Kemp, a self-taught genius 
— was originally an operative mason. His natural aptitude 
for architectural pursuits was raised into enthusiasm by an 
early visit to Roslin Chapel ; he subsequently travelled on 
foot over a large portion of Great Britain and part of the 
Continent, supported only by his mechanical industry, and 
visiting, in the course of his journeyings, all places containing 
cathedrals or other Gothic structures. On returning to his 
own country, he carried off the palm in a competition of 
plans for a Gothic monument to the memory of Scott, but 
died from the effects of an accident, before the monument was 
completed. This was done in 1844, at a cost of ,£15,650. 
Admission to the galleries, from which a series of the finest 
views of the city can be obtained, is obtained on a payment of 
two pence. The gardens in which it stands, called the East 
Princes Street Gardens, are elegantly laid out. Unrestricted 
access is afforded to the public; and there are no public 
gardens in the United Kingdom better preserved from injury. 

Proceeding west along Princes Street, on the same side, 



EDINBURGH. 509 



and in a line with the Scott Monument, is a full-length 
bronze statue, by S.eell, of Professor Wilson, the celebrated 
" Christopher North," of Blackivood's Magazine, author of 
The Isle of Palms and other well-known works. It was 
erected in March, 1865, by public subscription, and, while 
excellent as a likeness, is considered one of the finest pieces 
of statuary in the kingdom. We next come to the 

Royal Institution, 

at the foot of the Mound. This elegant Doric structure was 
erected from a design by W. H. Playfair. Over the pediment 
is placed a colossal statue of her Majesty, by Steell, excellent 
for the truthfulness of the likeness at the date when it was 
made. Within are the apartments of the Royal Institution 
for the Encouragement of the Fine Arts (which enjoys the 
administration of the Spalding fund for the support of aged 
and decayed artists), as also those of the Board of Trustees 
for the Improvement of Manufactures and Fisheries in Scot- 
land. There is also a fine statue gallery, with casts from the 
antique and the Elgin Marbles, to which the public have access 
on Wednesdays and Fridays, from ten to four, admission six- 
pence, and on Saturdays,' from ten to four, free. The Royal 
Society of Edinburgh occupies the whole western wing, where 
they have a fine library, museum, and collection of portraits 
of eminent men of science. The Scottish Antiquarian Museum, 
rich in Scottish antiquities, occupies a portion of the building: 
admission to this may be obtained on Thursdays and Fridays, 
from ten till four, on payment of sixpence ; and on Tuesdays, 
Wednesdays, and Saturdays, from ten till four, and from seven 
till nine in the evening (of Saturdays only), free. 

On the other side, at the north-eastern corner of the West 
Princes Street Gardens, is a statue, in white marble, of Allan 
Ramsay, the author of " The Gentle Shepherd." 

The National Gallery. 

The building for the National Gallery, together with a suite 
of rooms for the Exhibitions of the Royal Scottish Academy, 
stands also on the Mound, above and a little to the southward 
of the Royal Institution. The foundation-stone was laid in 
August, 1850, by H.R.H. the late Prince Consort, and the 
design is also by Mr. Playfair. 

It is in the Ionic order, and has porticoes of six pillars on 
the east and west fronts, with antas or pilasters extending 
along the sides, and two smaller porticoes, consisting of four 
pillars, on each of the south and north fronts. The rooms 



510 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

occupied by the Royal Scottish Academy form the east division, 
entering by a door on the north front, and consist of five 
octagonal apartments for the annual exhibition of pictures and 
sculpture by the modern masters, together with a library and 
council-room for the Academy. The whole is lighted by 
cupolas in the roof. The National Gallery occupies a similar 
suite of apartments on the west side. It is open free to the 
public on Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays, 
from ten till four, and also from seven till nine on Saturday 
evenings : on Thursdays and Fridays sixpence is charged for 
admission. A fine collection both of old and of modern paint- 
ings is contained in the Gallery. 

The site of the Royal Institution and National Gallery, the 
value of which was estimated at ^30,000, was given by the 
Town Council. It forms part of 

The Mound, 

an accumulation of earth, collected chiefly from the founda- 
tions of houses built in the town at various periods. Per- 
mission was granted for depositing the earth in the valley 
called the North Loch, now Princes Street Gardens ; and, as 
the accumulation increased, the possibility of a communica- 
tion by such means became apparent, and consequently a 
systematic plan was acted upon, and in course of time this 
very convenient passage between the old and new parts of the 
city was completed. 

At the head of the Mound stands 

The Free Church College, 

an elegant Elizabethan structure, with fine towers and crocketed 
finials. The eastern part of the building is used as the Free 
High Church. On a portion of the ground occupied by this 
building stood the palace of the Regent Mary of Guise, mother 
of •Mary, Queen of Scots. The edifice was erected from de- 
signs by W. H. Playfair. 

Immediately adjoining the Free Church College, on our 
right, are the 

National Security Savings Bank Buildings. 

A portion of the adjoining ancient buildings was restored 
after their destruction by fire in the autumn of 1857, anc * was 
rebuilt in the Scottish Baronial style. 

The immense pile of buildings on the east side of the bank, 
towering ten stories in height, was at no distant period oc- 
cupied by the elite of Edinburgh society. David Hume, the 



EDINBURGH. 511 



historian, at one time occupied one of the upper flats ; and 
Boswell here entertained Dr. Johnson on his visit to Scotland. 
These tenements still remain, as examples of the lofty piles 
of buildings almost peculiar to this city. 

A little farther on, at the foot of Bank Street, stands 

The Bank of Scotland, 

a large massive building, with well-proportioned Corinthian 
columns, and having its front adorned with the arms of its 
chartered company. This is the oldest banking establishment 
in Scotland, having been incorporated by Act of Parliament in 
1695. The original building was erected nearly seventy years 
ago, at an expense of ^75,000, and was by no means a very 
sightly structure. In 1865 two wings on either side of the 
part looking towards Bank Street were commenced ; these 
(now completed) are flanked by piers and Corinthian pillars — 
with campaniles ninety feet high from the level of Bank Street, 
forming a group with the central cupola, 112 feet high from 
the same level. These campaniles consist of four clusters of 
shafts, joined by arches and covered by stone domes, each 
having on its apex a single allegorical figure. From the 
north (Princes Street), while this building presents an imposing 
mass, it is too distant to give effect to the handsome detail 
existing upon that frontage. Adjoining the eastern wing of 
this building, towards Bank Street, will be found a new 
street, having its opening opposite St. Giles's Church, made 
by the Bank of Scotland. This, called St. Giles's Street, is 
built in the Baronial style, with a width of from thirty-eight 
to forty-eight feet. By passing the Bank front into this street, 
a charming view of the New Town is obtained through the 
railed space enclosing the ground adjoining the Bank on the 
east, while a very convenient access to the Waverley bridge 
will be found by an openstaircase in the corner. Returning to 
and proceeding up Bank Street, and turning to the right, the 
Lawnmarket is entered, the picturesque and quaint-looking 
old buildings of which, many of great antiquity, will be sure 
to attract the attention of the visitor. Right in front, in the 
centre of the street, is Victoria Hall. The opening to the 
right, up the Castle Hill, is Ramsay Lane, on the one side of 
which is the great reservoir of the Edinburgh Water Trust 
Works, capable of containing 1,800,000 gallons ; on the other 
the very interesting establishment of the Original Ragged 
Schools, founded by the late Rev. Dr. Guthrie. Ramsay 
Lane takes its name from the house of Ramsay, the poet, 
which is situated to the north of the Water Trust Reservoir, 
on the north side of Castle Hill. A little further up is 



U2 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 



The Castle. 

From the Castle Esplanade, on either side, singularly attrac- 
tive views may be had. The colossal statue on the north side 
is that of the Duke of York, by Campbell. The handsome 
Runic cross on the right was erected by the officers and 
privates of the 78th Highland Regiment, to the memory of 
their companions-in-arms who fell during the Indian mutiny 
of 1857. Passing the outward barrier of the castle, we arrive 
at a strong palisade with a dry ditch underneath, crossed by a 
drawbridge, and defended by a gate with two small flanking 
batteries. The roadway passes through two other gates to 
the right, beyond the first of which are situated the Artillery 
Stores and Argyle Battery. The Armoury is on the west of 
the Castle Rock, containing 30,000 stand of arms, beautifully 
arranged, and a bomb-proof powder magazine. On the 
highest platform of the castle, 383 feet above the level of the 
sea, stands the monster gun Mons Meg. On the carriage of 
the gun is an inscription which states that it was made at 
Mons, in Brittany, i486. After having been employed at the 
siege of Norham Castle, it burst on being fired in 1682, on the 
visit of the Duke of York; it was removed to the Tower of 
London in 1684, but restored to the Castle of Edinburgh by 
George IV. in 1829, and welcomed by the citizens with great 
demonstrations of joy, as a national relic. The highest habi- 
table part of the castle is occupied by a small quadrangle of 
100 feet square, west of the Half-moon Battery, the houses in 
which are principally used as hospitals and barracks. The 
eastern side was once a royal residence : to this gratuitous 
access, with the services of an attendant, are liberally afforded, 
to inspect the small room at the south-east corner, in which 
James VI., the only son of Mary, Queen of Scots, was born, 
19th June, 1546. Tradition asserts that the child was subse- 
quently let down the face of the high precipice over which the 
window of this small closet opens to the foot of the Castle 
Rock, in a basket, and conveyed for safety to Stirling Castle. 
The roof is decorated with the initials M. R., a crown sur- 
rounded by thistles, and some verses of a quaint description 
in black letter, of which copies are to be had on the spot ; and 
the little window has been agreeably filled with beautifully 
stamed glass by Mr. Ballantine. Situated on the higher part 
cf the Castle Rock, close to the Mons Meg Battery, is St. 
Margaret's Chapel, dedicated to the sainted queen of Malcolm 
Canmore. This miniature oratory has been restored at the 
expense of her present Majesty, after a long period of neglect, 
and is now used on the occasion of the baptism of any child 




EDINBURGH CASTLE, FROM THE GRASSMARKET. 



EDINBURGH. 513 



born in the castle. Hard by, on the east side of the quad- 
rangle, is the Crown Room, wherein are deposited 

The Regalia, 

to which admission is free. The Scottish Regalia consist of 
a crown, sceptre, sword of state, and other crown jewels, 
and along with them are exhibited some valuable jewels 
bequeathed by the Cardinal York, the brother of Prince Charles 
Edward, to George IV., and sent to Edinburgh Castle in 1830; 
viz., the golden collar of the Garter conferred by Queen 
Elizabeth on James VI., w r ith the George and Dragon, the 
badge of the order, believed to be the most superb jewel of the 
kind existing. The whole are secured within a strong iron 
cage, and shown by lamplight. In the same apartment is 
exhibited the oak chest in which the Regalia were deposited 
at the Union, and in which they lay lost until the year 1817, 
when they were discovered by Sir Walter Scott. 

Retracing our steps down the Castle Hill the visitor will 
notice the antique small houses on either side, which, with 
their numerous fiats and small windows, render this street one 
of the most picturesque in Europe. On the right will be seen 
the 

Victoria Hall, 

a building finished in the year 1844, f° r tne meetings of the 
General Assembly or Convocation of the Church of Scotland ; 
the tower and spire are 241 feet in height. 

On the south of Victoria Hall is St. John's Free Church, 
built at the disruption for that celebrated preacher the late 
Dr. Guthrie. Turning to the right we pass St. Columba's, an 
Episcopal Church, and next to it is the Normal Seminary of 
the Church of Scotland; a little beyond is a small block of 
buildings, erected for the married soldiers of the garrison. 
Looking up to the castle from this point, the small window is 
pointed out from which tradition states that James VI. was let 
down in a basket, not to the road on which the visitor stands, 
but farther down still, to 

The Grassmarket, 

on our left, to which we now descend by a flight of steps. 
This square has an interest cf a peculiar kind : here the 
Covenanters suffered death. The common gallows stood for 
a long time at the east end of the Market, and the spot is now 
distinguished by paving-stones arranged in the form of a St. 
Andrew's cross. The description of Porteous' death in the 
Heart of Midlothian will give an idea of the scene this 
place presented in those troublous times. A Corn Exchange 

~~ 33~~ 



was erected here in 1841, the interior of which is worthy of a 
visit; before the Crystal Palace was seen, it afforded Edin- 
burgh some foretaste of what light, space, and glass could 
effect in imparting airy elegance within doors. It is 152 feet 
long, and ninety-eight broad, and is rcofed with glass. The 
facade to the front is in the Italian style, with a campanile at 
the west end. 

At the east end of the Grassmarket is the West Bow, lead- 
ing to George IV. Bridge, at the corner of which stands the 
Highland and Agricultural Society's Museum. Opposite the 
Museum, on the east side of George IV. Bridge, is the New 
Sheriff Court, a building in the Italian style, beyond which, 
in the Byzantine style, is the Congregational Church of St. 
Augustine. 

At the south end of the bridge is 

Greyfriars' Churchyard, 

anciently the garden of the Franciscan monastery which 
stood in the Grassmarket. It contains many interesting monu- 
ments well worth inspection ; among others those of George 
Buchanan, Dr. Robertson, the historian, Dr. Black, the chemist, 
M'Laurin, the mathematician, Allan Ramsay, the poet, Sir 
George Mackenzie, Adam, the architect, Dr. Hugh Blair, and 
M'Crie, the biographer of Knox. Here is also the tombstone 
on which the Solemn League and Covenant was signed, on the 
1st of March, 1638, by the excited multitude, many of whom 
drew blood from their arms and inscribed their names with it 
in lieu of ink. 

Leading Greyfriars' Churchyard, and turning to the right, 
we enter the Forest Road, a new and elegant connection 
between George IV. bridge and the meadows. In the centre 
of this street, en the left, stands the Oddfellows' Hall, erected 
by that body in 1873 : it contains, amongst other conveniences, 
a fine lecture-hall and concert room. Further along, on the 
right-hand side, a large gate gives entrance to the Volunteer 
Drill Hall, a spacious erection occupying the whole rear space 
of this side of the street, having an arched glass roof in one 
span, under which are drilled the men of the Edinburgh 
battalions. It also possesses numerous other apartments and 
conveniences for the use of the officers and men. 

This little street is a good specimen of the renovated Scot- 
tish style of domestic architecture, the quaint cross-stepped 
gables facing the street, and bearing in many cases mono- 
grams and the ornaments of the thistle, fleur-de-lys, and rose- 
to be seen in the old buildings of the High Street, Canongate, etc. 
The south end of the street enters Lauriston Street, turning into 



EDINBURGH. 515 



which by our right, and proceeding a few yards westward, we 
arrive at the grounds in which stands 

Heriot's Hospital, 

endowed by George Heriot, goldsmith to James VI., and 
opened for the admission of boys in 1659. The plan is 
ascribed to Inigo Jones. The number of boys admitted is 
180, the fatherless sons of freemen having a preference. 
They must not be under the age of seven, and not above ten, 
and they generally leave at fourteen. If any are found 
advanced scholars at the termination of their studies in the 
hospital, and feel desirous of following some learned profes- 
sion, they have an allowance of £^o for four years at the 
University. The treasurer of the hospital issues tickets of 
admission at his office in the Royal Exchange, free to any 
stranger, every day, with the exception of Saturday. 

Crossing the road opposite Heriot's Hospital entrance gate, 
and returning in the direction of Forest Road, we pass the 
front of the Surgical Hospital, forming the frontage of a large 
square, in the centre of which formerly stood Watson's Hos- 
pital — an institution for the education of the sons of decayed 
merchants, now absorbed among several large new blocks of 
building containing the Medical Hospital and administrative 
departments, which together constitute, as a whole, the New 
Royal Infirmary Buildings. 

We have now arrived at the head of the Central Meadow 
Walk, the entrance to which is here indicated by two hand- 
some pillars, surmounted by two unicorns, holding shields, on 
which are engraved on one side the arms of Scotland, and 
on the other those of the city. 

Before proceeding, it is worth mention that it is intended 
to erect upon the space at present occupied by Teviot Row and 
Park Place, situate to the left of this entrance, complete class- 
rooms, theatres, laboratories, and museums, with the latest 
scientific improvements, for the medical faculty of the Uni- 
versity of Edinburgh. A University Hall will also be built 
here, and used for the conferring of degrees, the holding cf 
examinations, and for all public academical ceremonials. 
The estimated cost of these buildings is ^"ioo,cco, a sum which 
it is proposed to raise by voluntary subscription ; the buildings 
will be additionally useful in consequence of their close proximity 
to the Mew Royal Infirmary. 

The Meadows. 

The " Meadow Walk," which we now enter, is bounded 
on the right by the Infirmary buildings, and on the left by 



516 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

George Square afterwards alluded to. To the right, at the 
first intersecting walk, are the Royal Hospital for Sick 
Children and the Merchant Company's Boys' School, which 
latter has to some extent taken the place of Watson's Hos- 
pital, in so far as that the " foundationers" of the latter institu- 
tion are here educated. The Meadows are about a mile and 
a half in circumference. The walks round this promenade 
are well sheltered with trees on each side. At their east 
end, called Hope Park, is the Archers' Hall, and at the 
west end of this meadow, adjoining the central promenade, 
or Meadow Walk, are placed the butts for the exercise of the 
Royal Company of Archers, who are the Queen's body-guard 
in Scotland. A handsome roadway for carriages, the Melville 
Drive, has been constructed around the southern side of the 
Meadows, while some very handsome ranges of houses will 
be found at the western end, facing the park on one side and 
Bruntsfield Links on the other. 

At the western end of the Meadows is the open space of 
ground — the remnant of the Borough Muir — on which Sir 
Walter Scott, in ]\Iarmion, describes the troops of Scotland 
as mustering for the march to Flodden. Half-way between 
the brow of the Hill of Morningside and the church on the 
declivity may still be seen on the roadside the " Bore Stane," 
on which James IV. fixed his standard in 1513. 

South of the Meadows are the Bruntsfield Links, principally 
devoted to the games of golf and cricket ; also Barclay Church, 
with its tall spire, Gillespie's Hospital, and Merchiston Castle, 
the birth-place and residence of Napier of Merchiston, the 
inventor of logarithms. 

Walking round the Links, along the path by the wall, we 
reach Warrender Park — destined shortly to be laid out in a 
series of handsome squares and crescents, already designed — 
the seat of Sir John Warrender of Lochend, Bart. ; a little 
beyond which is St. Margaret's Nunnery. Turning hence 
towards the new suburb of Grange, the " Land of Canaan " is 
reached ; it is studded with beautiful villas and gardens, and 
the House of Grange, the seat of Sir John Dick Lauder, Bart., 
of Fountainhall. This house was formerly the residence of 
Kirkcaldy, one of the murderers of Cardinal Beatoun, after- 
wards the champion and last adherent of the cause of Mary, 
Queen of Scots. It was from this house that Lady Grange 
was kidnapped by the celebrated Rob Roy, and carried, first 
to Balquhidder, and afterwards to St. Kilda. It is alleged 
that this outrage was perpetrated at the instigation of her 
husband, Lord Grange, who was one of the Lords of Session, 
and brother to the Earl of Mar, lest his lady should reveal to 



the Government the secret of the insurrection then organizing, 
and which broke out in 1715. Here, too, Hume, the historian, 
and Dr. Blair resided ; and here Dr. Robertson died, in 1793. 
Returning by the Grange Cemeteiy, where several celebrities 
are interred, and Chalmers's Memorial Church, we reach George 
Square, the only large square in the southern districts, the 
residence of the aristocracy of a former generation. In No. 
25, on the west side, Scott spent his boyhood. To the north- 
east of this place, in Nicholson Street, is the Royal College 
of Surgeons, the portico of which is supported by six fluted 
Ionic columns. Still farther north stands 

The University. 

It began about the time of the Reformation, and was estab- 
lished as a place of education by King James VI. in 1582. The 
apartments, becoming too small for the concourse of students, 
and the whole building being considered mean and incom- 
modious, the foundation-stone of the present University build- 
ings was laid by Lord Napier, a descendant of the great dis- 
coverer of logarithms, on the 16th November, 1780. Want of 
funds, and various causes, for a long while retarded the com- 
pletion of the structure. At length, in 1815, a Parliamentary 
grant was obtained, in yearly instalments of ^10,000, until 
1822, when the quadrangle may be said to have been com- 
pleted. The handsome portico has been much and justly 
admired. The pillars, of the Roman Doric order, twenty-six 
feet in height, are each of one solid stone. The quadrangle 
is 358 feet long by 255 feet wide, and contains a statue of the 
late Sir David Brewster. There is an excellent anatomical 
museum, and the library is most tastefully fitted up, and in 
admirable order; it contains about 130,000 volumes, with 700 
valuable and curious MSS., among which is the beautifully 
illuminated missal of St. Katherine. The splendid hall may 
be visited on producing an order from any of the patrons, 
the Town Council of Edinburgh. 

Next to the University, on the same side, is the 

Industrial Museum, 

in the Venetian Renaissance style, and built throughout 
of the grey sandstone of the neighbourhood, the shafts of the 
smaller columns being in Melrose red sandstone. It consists 
of two projecting wings, containing the lecture-room and 
offices ; in the rear is the Museum proper, consisting of a 
series of courts opening into a great hall, 260 feet long by 
seventy feet wide, and seventy feet high. The Museum is 



well worthy of a visit, having one of the finest and most com- 
plete collections of birds in the world. There is also a pretty 
good collection of animals, and some very interesting fossil 
remains, with minerals, shells, corals, insects, fishes, serpents, 
and various natural productions. The whole are arranged in 
the most beautiful order, and are in excellent preservation. It 
is open to the public on Wednesdays from ten till four, and on 
Saturdays from ten till ten. An extension of this building, in 
completion of the original design, is now in progress of con- 
struction, to find room for which two squares of some antiquity 
have been demolished. 

A fine open frontage has been obtained for both the In- 
dustrial Museum and the north side of the University, by the 
formation of Chambers Street, a handsome wide new 
thoroughfare, intended to connect the South and George IV. 
Bridges. The structures to be erected on the yet unbuilt side 
will be subject to conditions of style which will not detract 
from the opposite buildings. As a specimen, the 

Watt Institution and School of Arts, 
nearly opposite the centre of the Industrial Museum, furnishes 
a good Guarantee. This institution formerly existed in a 
square, demolished in the construction of this street, and has 
been rebuilt at a cost of about ,£9,000. It is in the mixed 
Italian style. Over the doorway is placed the monument of 
James Watt, which formerly occupied a pedestal in the centre 
of Adam Square. The institution, founded in 1821, possesses 
some interest from its being among the earliest efforts in Scot- 
land to provide evening classes for the advanced education of 
mechanics. 

Returning to the Scott Monument, a second walk may be 
undertaken next day, eastwards along Princes Street, past the 
North British Railway Terminus, and the Register House, an 
institution for the registration of mortgages and sales of landed 
and household property, in which are also contained the ancient 
historical muniments of Scotland. 

In front of this building is a bronze equestrian statue of the 
Duke of Wellington, erected in 1852 at a cost of ;£io,ooo, and 
opposite, at the foot of the North Bridge, is 

The General Post Office. 

The foundation-stone of this stately structure was laid by 
H.R.H. the late Prince Consort, on the 23rd October, 1861 ; 
it was one of the last public acts he performed. The build- 
ing was opened for business on the 7th May, 1866. The front 
to Princes Street is 137 feet in length, and the facade to the 



EDINBURGH. 519 



North Bridge is 178 feet long. The building consists of three 
stories, being sixty-six feet in height in Princes Street, and 
upwards of 100 feet at the south side. The northern corners 
are considerably higher, giving them the appearance of massive 
towers. The principal floor is decorated by numerous Corin- 
thian columns. 

Crossing the bridge, we arrive at 

The Royal Exchange, 

on the right-hand side of High Street, which was built in 
1761. Within the quadrangle are the City Chambers and 
various other offices connected with the city. In the High 
Street, almost opposite to the entrance to the Exchange, stood 
the Cross, the site of which is indicated by a circle of pave- 
ment. Here royal proclamations are made by the heralds and 
pursuivants, with all the pomp that usually accompanies such 
acts. 

Continuing our walk up the High Street, we come to 

The High Church, 

or Cathedral of St. Giles, at the entrance to the Parliament 
Square. St. Giles was the tutelary saint of Edinburgh, and 
the legend concerning him mentions that he was of illustrious 
parentage, and born in Greece. In the reign of James II. 
(1437 — 1460), Preston of Gorton got possession of an arm- 
bone of the saint, which he bequeathed to this cathedral, 
where it was kept amongst the treasures of the church till the 
Reformation. Forty altars, it is said, once stood in the church, 
so greatly was it esteemed as a religious establishment. James 
III. in 1466 erected it into a collegiate church. At the 
Reformation the sacred utensils were seized and sold by the 
magistrates, and the money, after repairing the church, went 
to augment the funds of the corporation. The building, which 
was entirely renovated in the exterior in 1832, contains three 
places of worship. The division called the High Church has 
a gallery, with a throne and canopy for the Sovereign, which 
is used by the Lord High Commissioner to the General 
Assembly when attending divine service during the sitting of 
that body, and has lately undergone restoration at consider- 
able cost. Right and left of the throne are pews appropriated 
to the magistrates of the city and the judges of the Court of 
Session, who attend church on Sunday in their robes. The 
tower or spire of the cathedral, the only part that has not 
undergone the process of restoration, consists of an imperial 
crown, and is seen with fine effect from various points both 
within and without the city. The church is a beautiful 



520 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

Gothic building, 206 feet long, no in breadth at the west 
end, i2g in the centre, and only seventy-six at the east 
end. It stands on a considerable elevation, and the spire is 
161 feet high. It was in this church that, in 1637, Charles I., 
endeavouring to establish the Episcopalian service and disci- 
pline, created such a ferment among the people as to prevent 
any further attempt at making it the established religion of 
the country. 

Within the cathedral are interred the bodies of the Regent 
Murray, who was shot at Linlithgow in 1570, and the great 
Marquis of Montrose, who was hanged in 1650. The monu- 
mental brass commemorative of " the good Regent," with a 
Latin inscription from the pen of George Buchanan, was in 
possession of Lord James Stuart of Donibristle (the seat of 
the Earl of Morav), and has been handed over to the Society 
of Antiquaries. On the outer wall facing the High Street is 
a tablet, pointing out the family burying-ground of Napier of 
Merchiston. Nearly in front of this, at the north-east corner 
of the cathedral, stands the old City Cross, which, in 1756, 
was removed from the High Street, and re-erected in the park 
of Lord Somerville's house of Drum, three miles from Edin- 
burgh. In the spring of 1866 it was restored to the city, and 
placed where it now stands. 

Behind the church is the Parliament Square, in the centre 
of which is an equestrian statue of Charles II. Here were 
interred the remains of John Knox, the Scottish Reformer, 
the neighbouring ground in former times having been the St. 
Giles's Church-yard : the spot is marked by a metal plate 
inserted in tlm roadway. The principal buildings are appro- 
priated to the. Courts of Session, Justiciary, and Exchequer. 
On the east end of the square are the Police Office, the Union 
Bank, and the Exchequer Chambers. Farther to the right, or 
west, is 

The Parliament House. 

This is the oldest building in the Parliament Square. The 
others have been built within the past few years, and the Par- 
liament House faced anew, to harmonize with the rest. The 
ength of the building is 133 feet, and the breadth ninety-eight. 
The great hall in which the Scottish Parliaments were held is 
called the Outer House ; it is 122 feet long by forty-nine in 
breadth, with a fine oak roof and floor. At the north end is 
a beautiful statue of the first Lord Melville, by Sir Francis 
Chantrey, and at the south end, by the same eminent artist, 
one of President Blair; opposite is a recumbent figure of Lord 
President Dundas; and again, near Melville's statue, an ex- 



quisite and highly characteristic one cf Duncan Forbes of 
Culloden, another president, by Roubiliac ; while on each side 
of the principal entrance are statues of the late Lord Presi- 
dent Boyle and Lord Jeffrey, by Steell. Some good por- 
traits of celebrities of the Scottish Bench and Bar adorn the 
walls, their names being printed on the portraits as well as on 
the statues themselves. The most striking is a full-length 
portrait of Lord Brougham, by Daniel Macnee, R.S.A. The 
building was much enriched, in 1870, by the insertion of hand- 
some sta : ned-glass windows. 

Passing through a door leading from the Outer House, on 
the west side, we come to the Advocates' Library, the histori- 
cal room of which is to connect the Outer House with the 
buildings proposed to be erected at the south of the County 
Hall, and to front the street leading along George IV. Bridge. 
The books of the library are deposited below the Parliament 
House, in various rooms and galleries. The library consists 
of about 260,000 volumes, and is exceedingly rich in MSS.,two 
thousand in number, chiefly connected with Scottish history 
and literature. By the liberality of the Faculty, the library is, 
like that of the British Museum, free for literary consultation. 
A statue of Sir Walter Scott, by Greenshields, is shown in a 
room below, and over the lobby door is preserved a pennon 
which is said to have been carried by the Earl Marischal of 
Scotland at the battle of Flodden, in 1513. In the New Hall 
are shown the National Covenant of 1638 and the King's 
Confession. 

The range of buildings extending between the Cathedral 
and the County Hall is called the Signet Library, and belongs 
to the Society of Writers to the Signet, a class of legal prac- 
titioners resembling the solicitors of London. The upper 
apartment of this library is a superb room, 140 feet long by 
forty-two in breadth. In the centre of the room is a cupola, 
with paintings in oil of Apollo and the Muses, together with 
the historians, poets, and learned men of all ages and nations. 
The library is a very fine one, and in admirable order ; it 
consists of upwards of 60,000 volumes. At the head of the 
staircase and in other parts of the building are some fine por- 
traits and marble busts of Scottish worthies. 

Facing the entrance to the Parliament Square is the County 
Hall, the large fluted Ionic portico of which fronts the County 
Square, wherein stood the City Tolbooth, called the " Heart 
of Midlothian," from which Scott took the title of his novel. 
The site of the building is marked by stones in the pavement, 
arranged in the shape of a heart. 

Passing the Tron Church, and proceeding down the High 



522 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

Street, we come to John Knox's House, situated on the left, 
close by the Fountain Well. It is said to be the very oldest 
stone building in the locality. Here the Reformer resided, 
for a short time, in 1559, and again in 1563 ; here he narrowly 
escaped the shot of an assassin while engaged in the com- 
position of his History of the Reformation. A charge of six- 
pence is made for inspecting the curiosities in the house, 
many of which have recently been added, and may be seen 
on Wednesdays and Saturdays, from 10 till 4. 

On the front of a house opposite are medallion heads, evi- 
dently Roman, of the Emperor Severus and his consort Julia. 
Here stood the old Netherbow Port. The church adjoining, 
on the north side of the street, called John Knox's Church, is 
a modern Gothic edifice, belonging to the Free Church body. 
Just below it is Leith Wynd, where a portion of the old wall 
still remains ; the wynd was at one time a principal outlet 
from the city northwards. 

Opposite is St. Mary's Street, leading south, lately widened 
and rebuilt on one side by the Improvement Commission of 
the city. Passing on down the Canongate, which (in con- 
tinuation of High Street we have now entered), we have, a 
little lower on our left, another of the city improvements, in a 
street called Jeffrey Street. Here stands Trinity College 
Church. This building originally occupied a portion of the 
present North British railway station. It was built about 1460, 
by Mary of Gueldres, Queen of James II. of Scotland ; she 
was also buried in it, and on its demolition, which took place 
about 1843, her body was found and re-interred in Holyrood 
Abbey. The railway company bound themselves to save the 
stones and re-erect the building on a site chosen by the city. 

Proceeding down the Canongate, on the left, is the old 
Canongate Tolbooth, outside of which will be seen the pillory 
and whipping-post, a slight stone pillar raised upon steps. 
Adjoining is the Canongate Church, where the graves of 
Adam Smith, Dugald Stewart, and Dr. Gregory may be seen ; 
and close by Burns erected a tombstone over his brother 
poet Ferguson. 

Not far from this, between the Canongate and Queen's 
Park, is 

The Palace of Holyrood. 

The palace is an elegant stone edifice of a quadrangular 
form. The length is about 230 feet from north to south, but 
somewhat less from east to west. The west front consists 
only of two stories, surmounted by a double balustrade ; and 
the portico in the centre is adorned with massive columns, 



EDINBURGH, 523 

which support a cupola, in the form of an imperial crown. 
The other three sides of the square are composed of three 
stories. The gallery contains a collection of the portraits of 
106 Scottish kings, from the earliest times, painted chiefly by 
De Witt. Some of the portraits, especially of the earlier 
kings, were painted from the fancy of the artist, some were 
taken from old coins, and others of a later date were copied 
from private pictures. A picture supposed to have been the 
altar-piece of Trinity College Church, above referred to, has 
lately been restored to Holyrood, by order of her Majesty. 

The present palace has never been the residence of royalty, 
except during the visit of George IV., and occasionally of her 
Majesty Queen Victoria, in her progress to and from Balmoral. 
James V., in 1528, erected the north-west towers, which are 
more generally known by the name of Queen Mary's apart- 
ments, and in which she resided. In these towers are the 
presence chambers, in which Queen Mary had the well-known 
interview with John Knox ; the dressing-room, with the 
small apartment adjoining it, having a secret stair leading 
from the chapel to the palace, by which Darnley and his 
associates entered and murdered Rizzio ; and the bed-cham- 
ber, in which is still the Queen's bed and some other relics of 
former days. The stains of Rizzio's blood are said to be still 
visible on the floor. 

In 1793 apartments were fitted up for the Count d'Artois 
(afterwards Charles X. of France) and the Dues d'Angouleme 
and Berri. Prince Charles Edward Stuart held his court here 
in 1745, and George IV. in 1822. 

The Abbey Church, now in ruins, was founded by David I., 
1128. This fine specimen of Gothic architecture has suffered 
much at different periods from barbarous hands ; but in 1816 
means were resorted to for preventing its further decay. A 
charge of sixpence is made for seeing the palace and chapel, 
every day, except Saturday, on which day free admission is 
allowed. The abbey, and all within the abbey grounds, in- 
cluding the whole space on which stands Arthur's Seat and 
Salisbury Craigs, walled all round, and known by the title of 
the King's, or, more recently, Queen's Park, is a sanctuary for 
insolvent debtors, who procure apartments in the houses 
adjoining the palace. 

On leaving the palace by the south side, we enter the 
Queen's Park, where will be seen, stretching to the right and 
left, the Queen's Drive, one of the finest promenades about 
Edinburgh, affording an extraordinary range of panoramic 
prospects. 

Returning to Holyrood Palace, and turning to the right 



524 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

towards the Calton Hill, wereach Burns's Monument, contain- 
ing a collection of the poet's MSS. and many interesting 
relics. The line building opposite Burns's Monument, nearly 
underneath Nelson's Monument, is the High School of Edin- 
burgh, a justly admired Greek structure, and one of the 
greatest ornaments of the city. It is composed of a centre and 
two wings. The wings have abasement story; and the whole 
building, including the lodges, extends in length somewhat 
above 400 feet. The Doric columns of the centre block are 
above twenty-two feet in height ; those of the corridors, right 
and left, are about a third shorter. 

Opposite is the County Gaol, and a little farther on, is the 
ptair leading to 

The Calton Hill. 

The first building at the top, on the left, is the monument 
to Dugald Stewart, professor of moral philosophy in the 
University of Edinburgh, who died in 1828. The monument 
is after Lysicrates' choragic "Lantern of Demosthenes," at 
Athens. 

Just above is the Old Observatory, on the top of which is 
an anemometer, placed there at the desire of the British 
Association, for the purpose of recording observations on the 
wind. Within the same enclosure is the New Observatory, 
erected in 1818. At the corner, next to Nelson's Monument, is a 
monument to the memory of Professor Playfair, who filled the 
chair of natural philosophy in the university. To the right, 
in an unfinished state, is the national monument, designed 
10 commemorate the gallant achievements of our countrymen 
during tne Peninsular war. The model of the building is the 
Parthenon at Athens. Next to this is situated Nelson's 
Monument, erected in 1815. Above the door is the crest of 
Nelson, cut in stone, and a carving of the stern of the "San 
Jose,'* with an appropriate inscription. From the top of the 
monument, which is 102 feet in height, is seen one of the 
most splendid panoramic views in the world. The visitor has 
aiso access to the inspection of a variety of optical and 
scientific objects contained in the structure, for the whole of 
which there is a charge of is. In the apartments will be 
found the autograph of the hero, copies of addresses to 
him, and various other things connected w r ith his name and 
actions. A time-ball has been erected for the purpose ot 
enabling captains of vessels to correct the time of their 
chronometers without the risk of bringing them ashore. It 
is lowered precisely at one o'clock, Greenwich time. In con- 
nection with this time-ball, there has been placed in the 



Half-moon Battery at the Castle a time-gun, which is dis- 
charged by electricity at the same hour. 

Passing along the terrace, the stranger has, stretched out 
before him, the whole of the New Town of Edinburgh, the 
regularity of which is strongly contrasted with the seemingly 
confused masses of the Old Town. 

From this point the long avenue of Leith Walk may be seen, 
connecting Edinburgh with Leith in an almost unbroken line. 
Advancing still farther, till the point is rounded, the whcla 
bay, or Leith roads, as it is commonly called, opens up before 
the spectator, and on a clear day presents a scene acknow- 
ledged to be only inferior to the Bay of Naples. The town of 
Leith lies right before the spectator; to the left is the village 
of Newhaven, and to the right the beautiful watering-place 
of Portobello. From the latter point several other towns are 
seen, situated on the bend of the coast, as it curves round on 
the one hand towards the Island of May, and on the other to 
the Bass Rock, which may be distinctly recognised in the ex- 
treme distance on the right. About midway in the water in 
front is the island of Inchkeith, on which a lighthouse with a 
revolving light is erected ; and up the river to the left are 
various islands diversifying the face of the Forth. On the 
opposite shore is the county of Fife, where may be seen the 
towns (beginning on the west or left hand) of Aberdour, Burnt- 
island, Kinghorn, and Kirkcaldy. The prospect is beautifully 
bounded by the Fife or Lomond Hills. 

Near to the base of Nelson's Monument are the Bridewell 
and the County Prison ; below are the Political Martyrs' 
monument and the tomb of David Hume, the historian ; the 
North Bridge and Princes Street lie to the west, and across the 
valley are seen the spires of the Tron Church, of St. Giles, 
and of Victoria Hall, the view being bounded by the Castle. 

After making the complete circuit of the hill, and descending 
the steps into Waterloo Place, on the right hand is the Calton 
Convening Room, and directly opposite the Calton Burying- 
ground. The roadway having been cut through the midst of 
this place of sepulture, it is ascended by a flight of steps. A 
circular monument to David Hume, and an obelisk to the 
memory of Muir, Palmer, and Gerald, designated " The 
Martyrs' Monument," are placed in this ground, small por- 
tions of which, screened by a retaining wall with niches, 
occupy either side of the street. 

The tourist will now return to Scott's Monument, passing 
on his way the Old General Post Office and the Office of 
Inland Revenue. Turning eastwards through St. Andrew's 
Street, he will enter 



26 LOXDOX AND XORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 



St. Andrew Square, 

This square, the first built in the New Town, contains some 
of the finest ornaments of the city. The first building on the 
right is the National Bank of Scotland, with a somewhat plain 
exterior, and immediately adjoining is the British Linen Com- 
pany's Bank. In the adjoining recess stands the Royal Bank 
of Scotland, in front of which is a statue of the Earl of Hope- 
toun: the telling-room of this bank is well worthy of a visit. 
On the other side of the recess is Slaney's Douglas Hotel, 
where the ex-Empress of the French, the Prince and Princess 
of Wales, etc., resided during their visits to Edinburgh. In 
the centre of the garden in the midst of the square a tall fluted 
column, 136 feet high, after that of Trajan at Rome, sustains 
a statue of Henry, First Viscount Melville, fourteen feet 
in height. The other buildings of note are the various insur- 
ance offices. It may be interesting to many to mention that 
the gifted statesman and orator, Lord Brougham, was born at 
a house on the west side of the square. 

From this side we enter George Street, the second finest 
street in Edinburgh. On the right stands the Standard Insur- 
ance Office, with a sculptured pediment, on which are repre- 
sented the Ten Virgins. A little farther on is St. Andrew's 
Church, with a handsome portico of four Corinthian columns, 
and a beautiful tapering spire 168 feet in height, containing a 
peal of eight bells. On the opposite side of the street are the 
Commercial and Clydesdale Banks, and in the centre is a 
bronze statue of George IV. Farther down, at the corner 
of Frederick Street, is a statue of William Pitt. 

Proceeding westward, the next intersecting street is Castle 
Street, where, at the central crossing point in George Street, 
it is intended to erect a monument to Dr. Chalmers. Sir 
Walter Scott lived for a long period in Castle Street, at Xo. 
39, a few doors north of George Street. At the western ex- 
tremity of George Street, we enter 

Charlotte Square, 

the first portion of the New Town of Edinburgh, designed 
upon a uniform plan. It is the work of Adam, and presents 
six facades, the eastern and western sides being divided in the 
middle, and the north and south entire — each facade being 
thus a counterpart of that opposite, and composed of elegant 
centres and wings. 

On a space occupying the middle of the western side, equal 
to the width of George Street, stands St. George's Church, a 
miniature of St. Paul's in London; with its dome, it closes the 



view from the east or St. Andrew's Square end of George 
Street. 

An octagonal garden fills the middle of the square, in the 
centre of which stands 

The Prince Albert Memorial. 

Of this the pedestal alone is erected ; it is a handsome square 
mass of polished granite, and has cost about ;£i,6oo. At each 
corner are extended bases, while on the four sides are compart- 
ments ; on the former will stand bronze figures, while the 
latter will he filled in with bas-reliefs of the same material. 
The statue of the Prince, which will surmount this pedestal, is 
an equestrian one (now in course of preparation), and will 
form the most successful and ambitious of all the previous 
efforts of the eminent sculptor, Steell, to whom the work has 
been entrusted. The entire cost will be about ^15,000. The 
access to the monument is by a broad walk, entering the gar- 
den opposite George Street. 

Passing to the western side of the square, and proceeding 
down Hope Street to Princes Street, we are confronted by St. 
John's Church, a building in the florid Gothic style, by Burn. 
It is a copy of St. George's Chapel, Windsor. The stained 
glass window above the altar is by Egglington, of Bristol. The 
church, which is externally graced by embossed gothic orna- 
ments, has a well-proportioned western tower, and elegant 
entrance-door. Opposite this, on the right, is the terminus 
of the Caledonian Railway. Turning down the Lothian 
Road, the tall handsome spire of St. Cuthbert's, or the 
West Kirk, appears. The body of the structure is not equal 
to the spire, and has nothing worthy of notice, save the ef- 
effective monument to its late pastor, Dr. Dickson. Leaving 
this we reach the basin of the Union Canal, which connects 
Glasgow with Edinburgh. Between the Lothian Road and 
the Castle is St. Mark's Chapel, the only Unitarian place of 
worship in the city. Proceeding hence towards the Hay- 
market station, we pass some of the finest of the modern 
residences, and come to the handsomest of the Edinburgh 
hospitals, 

Donaldson's Hospital, 

built in the Elizabethan style. Its length from east to west is 
270 feet, and from south to north 257 feet, enclosing a quad- 
rangle 176 by 154 feet. There are four square towers at each 
angle, ninety-two feet in height, and four octagonal towers in 
the centie of the principal front, 120 feet high ; there are 
also three octagonal towers in the quadrangle, each about 



528 LONDON AND NORTH- WESTERN GUIDE. 

ninety feet high, and several smaller turrets of various heights. 
The interior is admirably fitted up with culinary and bathing 
apparatus, etc., is beautifully painted, and the chapel windows 
are filled with magnificent stained glass. Strangers can get 
the address of some director from any bookseller, and receive 
an order of admission by a written application. 

Proceeding on to Coltbridge, and turning to the right, we 
reach the Orphan Hospital, a splendid building, with imposing 
centre and wings, raised upon a terrace, ascended by a broad 
flight of steps, and having an entrance portico of seven Tuscan 
columns, supporting a pediment with a clock. The building 
was finished in 1833, at a cost of ^16,000, and is calculated 
to accommodate about 200 children. 

A few paces farther on is the entrance to the Dean Cemetery, 
the beautiful situation of which, and the care with which it is 
kept, are worthy of all praise. A square-built monument, of 
simple and severe design, rising on steps, near the great over- 
hanging willows at the western wall, marks the spot where 
the celebrated editor of the Edinburgh Review, Lord Jeffrey, 
lies interred. Immediately adjoining is Lord Rutherford's 
monument, formed of Peterhead red granite. Here are like- 
wise interred Lords Moncrieff, Cockburn, and Cunningham, 
also Professors Wilson, Forbes, and Thomson, together with 
the celebrated painters, Sir William Allan and David Scott, 
and Playfair, the architect. 

Leaving the cemetery, by the north gate, we pass on the left 
the Dean Church, a little farther to the west of which is 
Stewart's Hospital, a fine Elizabethan structure, for the educa- 
tion of poor children. 

Turning towards Edinburgh, we re-enter by Clarendon 
Crescent and the Dean Bridge, consisting of four arches, each 
ninety-six feet in span — in all 447 feet long and thirty-nine 
wide, rising 106 feet above the wild and rocky section of strata 
laid bare in the bed of the stream below. It was finished in 
183 1, from a design by Thomas Telford, Esq., and has this 
peculiarity that it has double arches, the upper ones sup- 
porting the foot pavements being themselves supported by 
pilasters, based upon the piers. 

On the west side stands Trinity Episcopal Chapel, a minster- 
like structure, with crypts and tombs below. W 7 hen viewed 
from the valley this chapel has a very picturesque appearance. 
To the east a handsome series of terraces and crescents covers 
the height opposite to the back of Moray Place, and the ground 
sloping towards the Water of Leith is terraced and laid out as 
a garden. On the other side of the bridge, looking down the 
ravine, an elegant temple is seen on the ri^ht bank ; this edi- 



EDINBURGH. 529 



fice is called St. Bernard's Well, and is much resorted to in the 
morning by invalids. The temple, which was erected by Lord 
Gardenstone, is adorned with a statue of Hygeia, a reference 
to the medicinal nature of the spring, which is considerably 
sulphureted. 

On the rising ground in the distance is Fettes Hospital and 
College, recently built on the Fettes grounds at Comely Bank. 
The hospital is in the French Gothic style, of the time of Francis 
I., and cost about ^"80,000. It is intended for the maintenance, 
education, and outfit of fifty young persons whose parents have 
died poor, or are unable, from poverty, to give suitable education 
to their children. The trustees have adopted the plan of Rugby 
and other English public schools, and have made arrangements 
for the admission of day-scholars, for the accommodation of 
whom boarding-houses are erected in the vicinity of the college. 
The education given includes English, Greek, modern lan- 
guages, mathematics, and scientific and artistic instruction. 
Prizes in the form of scholarships, tenable during residence at 
the college, and exhibitions to be held at Edinburgh and other 
universities are awarded to the scholars. 

Leaving the bridge, and walking up Lynedoch Place, we 
reach Melville Street the centre of which is occupied by a 
bronze statue of Viscount Melville. An Episcopal cathedral 
is about being erected here, the necessary funds having been 
bequeathed by the late Miss Coates. 

Quitting this spot, en route for our starting-point, we arrive at 
Moray Place, which has long maintained its pre-eminence 
amongst the splendours of domestic architecture which have 
caused Edinburgh to be denominated a city of palaces. The 
houses are massive Doric structures, built upon Moray Park, 
the property of the Earl of Moray. From this issues Queen 
Street, once the fashionable promenade of Edinburgh. 

Proceeding eastward to Queen Street Hall, the Synod hall 
of the United Presbyterian Church, we pass the Physicians' 
Hall, which has a handsome projecting portico, supporting 
statues of iEsculapius, Hippocrates, and Hygeia. Next to the 
Queen Street Hall is the Philosophical Institution, comprising 
a reading-room and library, besides the lecture-rooms. Turning 
down St. David Street, on the right, we once more reach the 
Scott Monument. 

Setting out from the monument for the fourth time, the 
tourist will proceed eastwards to Leith Street and Catherine 
Street, from which a fine view is gained of Leith Walk and 
the town of Leith. On the left is the Theatre Royal, and 
adjoining it St. Mary's Roman Catholic Chapel. To the north, 
in York Place, is St. Paul's Church. Thence, proceeding by 



34 



53Q LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

Broughton Street, Mansfield Place, and Bellevue Crescent, 
we -reach St. Mary's Church, with a spire 185 feet high, and a 
Corinthian portico, with fine capitals. To the left lies the 
Royal Gymnasium. A little farther down is Canonmills 
Bridge, close to which, on the left we see 

Tanneld Hall, 

now a wool store, but likely to be long remembered as being 
the place prepared for the reception of the ministers, who, on 
the 18th May, 1843, constituted themselves into an independent 
body, under the name of the Free Church of Scotland. In this 
hall also took place the union between the United Secession 
and Relief Churches, on the 13th of May, 1847. 

Proceeding a short distance along Inverleith Row we arrive 
at the Caledonian Horticultural Society's Experimental Gar- 
dens, which are laid out with very great taste. Strangers are 
admitted free at any time, except on exhibition days, when a 
charge of is. is generally made. 

A little farther on, on the same side, are 

Tlie Royal Botanic Gardens, 

containing fourteen acres of ground. The superintendent's 
house is situated on the right-hand side of the entrance, 
immediate!}' adjoining which is the class-room of the Pro- 
fessor of Botany. The garden presents every facility for the 
study of botany. A grant of ^"6,000 was received lately from 
Government to rebuild the palm-houses, which were formerly 
very insufficient. The public are admitted to the grounds at 
any t me, but to the palm-houses and hot-houses on Saturday 
only. 

The tourist may return by the Xorth British station of the 
Granton Railway, Granton is now an independent port, and 
a place of importance, on account of its piers, the property 
of the Duke of Buccleuch, by whom they and the. adjacent 
breakwaters were built. Here the London, Aberdeen, Stir- 
ling, and Fife steamers arrive, and from hence they depart. 
The Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee Railway extends along the 
east side of the pier, conveying passengers to the sides of the 
steamers. To the east is the Chain Pier, now almost exclu- 
sively used for bathing purposes. Beyond this is the fishing 
village of Newhaven, the inhabitants of which form a distinct 
community, seldom intermarrying with any other class. 
About a mile along the coast is Leith Fort, the head-quarters 
of the Royal Artillery in Scotland, containing accommoda- 
tion for 350 men. The town of 



LEITH. 53? 

LEITE 

(population 44,227), the seaport of Edinburgh, is situated about 
two miles from the centre of the metropolis, yet, in reality, 
joined with it by Leith Walk. 

Leith is divided by the river into two portions, called North 
and South Leith ; they are connected by two drawbridges 
and an elegant stone bridge. The old part of the town is 
built very irregularly, the streets being narrow and crowded ; 
but the new streets to the south and east are spacious and 
cleanly. Until the passing of the Burghs Reform Bill, in 1833, 
Leith was under the control of the magistrates of Edinburgh, 
but since then its civic affairs have been managed by a pro- 
vost and bailies, a treasurer and council. The chief attrac- 
tions for such as may visit Leith are the harbour, docks, and 
extensive shipping. The public buildings worthy of notice 
are the Exchange Buildings, a spacious Grecian structure, at 
the bottom of Constitution Street, and fronting Bernard Street, 
comprising the assembly-rooms, public reading-rooms, and 
the post-office ; the Custom House, also in the Grecian style ; 
the Trinity House, in the Kirkgate, founded in 1555, and 
rebuilt in 1817; the High School, on the south side of the 
Links ; the Corn Exchange, Bernard Street ; and the Town 
Hall, comprising police-office, cells for prisoners, and court- 
rooms for the sheriff and other authorities. The piers also 
are well worthy of a visit; they project seaward consider- 
ably more than a mile, extending past the Martello tower, and 
form fine evening promenades. On the way to the piers we 
pass, on the south side of the harbour, the Prince of Wales 
Graving Dock, much used by the Hamburg and New York 
Shipping Company, who refit all their fleet here. Adjoining 
this dock a floating deck, covering nearly thirteen acres, has 
been recently constructed, with a depth of water at the 
dock gates, in spring tides, of twenty-seven feet. An excellent 
view of Edinburgh and Leith may be had from the end of 
either pier. Leith, together with Musselburgh, Portobello, 
and Newhaven, returns a member .to Parliament. The trade 
of the port lies chiefly in corn, wine, and timber, while a large 
traffic by screw steamers is carried on with Hamburg, Rotter- 
dam, Christiana, London, Hull, Newcastle, and other ports. 

After seeing everything of importance, we should recom- 
mend the visitor to take one of the tramway cars plying 
between Edinburgh and Leith, every five minutes, which will 
conduct him to the place whence he started. 



EXCURSION XX. 
EDINBUBGH TO ROSLIN, HAWTHOBNDEN, Etc. 

ONE of the pleasantest summer excursions in the vicinity of 
Edinburgh is to Roslin and Hawthornden ; it is one 
which no stranger should neglect. Roslin may be reached by 
the coach running daily during the season at n a.m.; it is 
about seven miles from Edinburgh, the road leading through the 
suburb of Newington and the small village of Liberton. Or 
the trip may be made by the Peebles Railway, from Waverley 
Bridge station to Hawthornden and Roslin stations. At 
Roslin wilb >' ound a commodious hotel, recently erected. 

Boslin Cliapel 

was founded oy William St. Clair, of Roslin, Prince of Orkney, 
in 1446. The chief object of interest is the Apprentice's 
Pillar, respecting which a romantic legend is related by the 
guide. The florid Gothic tracery, the astonishingly elaborate 
sculptures, and the profuse and beautiful ornamentation of the 
pillars, cornices, etc., would occupy pages of detail. It sus- 
tained a good deal of injury at the period of the Revolution of 
1688, but has lately undergone the process of restoration, and 
is now used as an Episcopal place of worship. 

Koslixi Castle 
was built by the same nobleman who founded the chapel. In 
1554 it was burned by the English under the command of the 
Earl of Hertford, and it was taken by Monk in 1650. The 
more ancient parts of the castle are indicated by the huge 
masses of fragments. The modern part was rebuilt in 1652. 
What remains shows it to have been once a place of great 
strength, moated and only accessible by a drawbridge. The 
situation is uncommonly romantic, being on a steep promon- 
tory of rock overhanging the bed of the river, which sweeps 
round two sides of it, the opposite side being so flat as to be 
occupied by an extensive bleach-field. At the point of this 
peninsula the bed of the stream is contracted by a large mass 
of reddish sandstone, over which it falls, forming when the 
the river is in flood a beautiful cascade, or linn. This linn is 
said to have given name to the place. The banks below the 
castle become extremely precipitous, and are covered with 
natural wood; and, for more than a mile below, the stream is 
confined on both sides by high perpendicular walls of sand- 
stone, which in many places have been worn into unusually 



ROSLIN—HA WTIIORNDEN. 533 

picturesque and fantastic shapes by the action of the water. 
The castle is separated from the country on the land side by a 
deep ravine, over which the only access is by a strong bridge, 
which remains entire. 

Roslin is celebrated in history for three successive victories 
obtained in one day (the 24th February, 1303), by Sir Simon 
Fraser and Sir John Comyn, with 10,000 men, over 30,000 
English invaders, under the command of John de Seagrave. 

The tourist, if in a cab or coach, will find it advisable to send 
it round to Lasswade, and to descend the valley of the Esk by 
the footpath on the bank to that village : by this arrangement 
he will enjoy a delightful stroll among the woods. 

Hawtliornden 
was the residence of Drummond, the historian and poet, a 
descendant of whom now resides there. The house and 
old castle stand on the edge of a lofty precipice of freestone 
rock, at the foot of which is the river, and midway, in the 
side of the rock, are hewn out some extraordinary caverns. 
Tradition assigns their construction to the Pictish monarchs, 
and has called one the King's Gallery, another the Guard- 
room, and a third the King's Bed-chamber. It seems more 
probable that they owe their origin to the destructive wars 
between the Scots and the English ; and it appears to be 
tolerably certain that they served as a hiding place for Sir 
Alexander Ramsay and his bold companions, during the 
contest of Bruce and Baliol. Besides the above-mentioned 
three caves, there is a fourth, a smaller one, called the Cypress 
Grove, where Drummond is said to have composed many of 
his poems and prose compositions. To obviate complaints 
made by parties visiting Hawthornden, access is now given by 
tickets, allowing the bearers to pass through the grounds.* 

A short way farther on is the village of Lasswade, a thriving, 
busy, snug retreat, in which Sir Walter Scott resided for some 
years after his marriage. It is supposed that he had Lasswade 
in his mind when he drew the picture of Gandercleuch in the 
Tales of My Landlord. Here also Professor Tennant, the 
erudite author of Anster Fair, taught the village school be- 
fore his great philological attainments were known. 

The manufacture of paper is the principal business carried 
on along the river Esk; there are no less than five large mills 
within a short distance of each other. Indeed, in this district 
there is more paper made than in any other part of Scotland, 
and great quantities of it are sent to London. 

* Admission is given on Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday, 
entering from the Hawthornden gate only. 



534 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

The tourist, if desirous, can now reach Edinburgh by railway 
or the Lasswade road, but it would be advisable to visit Mel- 
ville Castle, the beautifully situated seat of Lord Melville. 
About a mile and a half east of this is 

Dalkeith Palace, 

the seat of the Duke of Buccleuch, situated close to the town 
of Dalkeith. The house stands on the site of an older building 
of great strength, which had stood several sieges. For some 
centuries it was the principal residence of the family of Morton, 
from whom it was purchased, in 1642, by the ancestors of the 
present noble proprietor. Dalkeith Palace was built by Anne, 
Duchess of Buccleuch and Monmouth, about the beginning of 
the last century. The park in which it stands is about 800 
acres in extent, and completely surrounded by a wall of stone 
and lime, eight or nine feet high. Charles II. resided here for a 
short time, and entirely furnished an apartment on the occa- 
sion of the marriage of the Duke of Monmouth with the heiress 
of the house. George IV. also resided here, in 1822 ; and here 
her Majesty Queen Victoria held her first receptions in Scot- 
land, in 1843. Dalkeith Palace is adorned with some fine old 
paintings. The grounds and gardens are exceedingly beautiful. 
Wednesday and Saturday are the days for admission to the 
palace in the absence of the family, although strangers coming 
from a distance are often admitted at other times, when they 
cannot take advantage of the days set apart. About a mile 
from Dalkeith is 

Newbattle Abbey, 

the seat of the Marquis of Lothian. The house is modern, and 
built on the site of a Cistercian abbey, founded by David I. 
Some curious stone relics of antiquity are still treasured round 
it. In the library are some beautiful and valuable illuminated 
manuscripts, which formerly belonged to the abbey, and seme 
fine pictures, among which are a halt-length portrait of Darnley 
and a beautiful head of Man' of Guise, the mother of Queen 
Mary. The house is surrounded by a fine wooded lawn, about 
thirty acres in extent. Several trees of enormous size are to 
be seen in the park, which is a favourite resort of pic-r,ic 
parties. About two miles farther south, on the Esk, is 

Dalhousie Castle, 
the seat of the Earl of Dalhousie, a short way from which 
stood the mansion of "the Laird of Cockpen." Some beau- 
tiiul walks are to be found along the steep and woody banks of 
the river. A short way beyond Dalhousie, near the inn at 

I 



BORTHWICK CASTLE— CRICHTON CASTLE, 535 

Fushie Bridge, is Borthwick Hall, the residence of Charles 
Lav/sen, Esq., late lord provost of Edinburgh. 

Borthwick Castle 
was built about the year 1430, hy Sir William de Borthwick, 
by licence of James I. of Scotland. It is one of the largest 
and best-preserved of the old buildings remaining in this 
country, and stands with imposing grandeur in the centre of a 
small, but beautiful valley watered by the Gore. Its form is 
nearly square, being about seventy-four by sixty-eight feet 
within the walls, which are of hewn stone within and without, 
and are near the bottom thirteen feet, and at the top six feet 
thick. From the ground to the battlements, it is ninety feet 
high, and including the roof, which is arched and covered with 
flagstones, the whole is about no feet. The castle is sur- 
rounded on three sides by water and steep banks ; and at 
equal distances from the base are square and round towers, 
which, before the use of artillery, must have been impregnable. 
Queen Mary retired hither for some time with the Earl of 
Bothwell, before her final separation from him at Carbeiy. 
Cromwell bent his cannon against it exactly at the weakest 
part, where there was a chimney. 

By ascending the height on the east about a couple of miles, 

Crichton Castle 

(originally the seat of the celebrated Chancellor Crichton) is 
reached. This castle was levelled to the ground, during the 
minority of James II., by William Earl of Douglas, in con- 
sequence of some feud he had with the Chancellor ; but in the 
reign of James IV., having become the property of the Hep- 
burns, Lords of Bothwell, it was rebuilt with increased mag- 
nificence. It is now the property of William Burn Callander, 
Esq., of Preston Hall. Crichton Church, a Gothic building 
near the castle, was founded in 1449 by the Chancellor. 

The tourist may now return to Edinburgh, either by the 
Hawick Railway — one of the stations of which is at Tynehead, 
near Crichton Castle, another at Dalhousie, near Newbattle, 
and a third at Eskbank, by Dalkeith — or follow on by the 
village of Pathhead to Oxenford Castle (the Earl of Stair) and 
Preston Hall — both places well worthy of a visit — and thence 
by Carbery Hill, where Queen Mary was separated from Both- 
well, and where she held her conference with Kirkcaldy of 
Grange, the top of the hill being still called the Queen's seat. 
On arrival at the Musselburgh station, the tourist should visit 
Pinkie House, a fine specimen of the Scottish manor-house of 



536 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

the sixteenth century, and the adjacent grounds, which are 
beautiful. This building deserves special interest from its 
having afforded a lodging to Prince Charles Edward on the 
night after his victory at Prestonpans ; he also spent a night 
there when on his march into England. 

Musselburgh is only six miles from Edinburgh ; its ancient 
Roman bridge spanning the Esk is an object of antiquarian, 
historical, and architectural interest. We next reach 

Portobello, 

(population 5,481), which has long been a favourite watering- 
place, owing to its fine sands and the convenience of access 
from the city. Connected by very frequent trains and omnibus 
traffic with Edinburgh, this has almost become a suburb of that 
city; while a handsome promenade of nearly a mile along its 
beach, and a pier of 1,250 feet, with seats capable of accom- 
modating two thousand persons, render it well worthy of a visit. 
The return to Edinburgh may be made by rail. A little beyond 
are the cavalry barracks at Piershill, and the railway workshops 
at St. Margaret's. On the left, after passing through below the 
arch, is the Queen's station, where her Majesty always alights 
on her way to Holyrood ; and shortly afterwards the train 
arrives at Edinburgh, where the exit from the railway platform 
to the Waverley Bridge is close to the Scott Monument. 



SECTION LIX. 

GLASGOW TO GREENOCK, DOWN THE CLYDE, THROUGH 
THE CRINAN CANAL TO OBAN, Etc. 

LE A V 1JN G the wharf at the Broomielaw, by the steamer lona, 
which usually leaves Glasgow at seven every morning, the boat 
paddles through the lines of sailing and steam vessels, often two and 
three deep, which crowd the quays on either side. The northern 
shore is the starting point for the fleets of steamers which ply be- 
tween Glasgow and almost every port of the United Kingdom. 
Here, too, below Napier's Docks, lie the ocean steamships of the 
Anchor and Allan lines. The southern line of quays is generally 
the rendezvous for the larger sailing-ships. The first break in 
this continuous line is on the right-hand side, where the river 
Kelvin, celebrated in Lyle's ballad of Kelvin Grove empties itself 
into the Clyde. The boat stops here, at Partick. Opposite is 



Govan, 

which bears a striking resemblance to Stratford-on-Avon, a 
resemblance which has been heightened by the lately-erected spire 
of the parish church, designed on the model of that at Stratford. 
Some fine seats are now passed on both banks of the river, until the 
steamer reaches 

Renfrew, 

on the left hand. This ancient burgh gives the title of baron 
to the Prince of Wales. The site of Renfrew Castle, in which 
the Stuarts resided ere coming to the throne, is now occupied 
by soap-works, which were partly built from the materials of 
the castle. Below Renfrew, on the same side, where the united 
streams of the Cart and Giyfe flow under Inchinnan Bridge to 
the Clyde, a large block of stone marks the spot where the 
Earl of Argyle was wounded and captured in 1685. The man- 
sion, a little lower down, is Erskine House, belonging to Lord 
Blantyre. The neighbouring obelisk was erected in commemo- 
ration of a former lord, who was accidentally shot in the 
Brussels riots of 1830. The river expands, as Bowling Bay, on 
the right, is approached. The hills forming the background of 
the bay are called 

Kilpatrick, 

being, according to Scottish tradition, the birthplace of St. Patrick. 
The legend relates that the holy man was much beset by minions of 
Satan, from whom at last he was compelled to fly, setting sail in a 
small boat to Ireland. Disappointed in their objects, his Satanic 
Majesty's satellites, or their leader, snatched up a huge boulder 
from the hill-side, and flung it after the fugitive. This of course 
fell short of the mark, and is now called Dumbarton Rock ! 
Landing at Bowling Pier, en route for the celebrated fortress 
which has been erected on this magical rock, the tourist passes 

Bunglass Point and Castle. 

The latter is supposed to have been a Roman station, ter- 
minating the Great Wall of Antoninus, which was erected across 
" the breadth of Scotland as a defence against the Picts of the 
north, and the remains of which are still to be traced at Bowling. 
Near by stands the monument to Henry Bell, whom we have 
already mentioned as the builder of the first steamer that was 
ever launched on the Clyde. The reader will find Dumbarton 
the next point of interest down the Clyde, described on page 495. 
Following the course of the stream, he arrives at 



538 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 
Greenock 

[Hotels : " Tontine," "White Hart," "Royal," and " Buck's Head"], 
(population 57,138), a seaport which at present ranks second to 
few in the kingdom. Its shipbuilding yards, from which some 
of the largest ocean steamers have been launched, are well worth 
a visit. Here is buried " Highland Mary," the object of Burns's 
purest and most fervent love. Her untimely death tinged the 
whole of the poet's life, and, had she lived, there can be little 
doubt that her pure affection would have prevented the excesses 
which have stained the character of her lover. The deep pathos 
of all his poems in reference to Mary comes with an unmistak- 
able ring from the heart. Gait, the novelist, well known to lovers 
of Scottish humour by his Ayrshire Legatees ; is also interred in 
Greenock. The town itself possesses little worthy of note from 
an architectural point of view, if we except the monument 
erected to the memory of James Watt, the perfecter of the 
steam-engine in Great Britain, who was a native of the place, 
being born here in the year 1736. 

Passing next to Gourock Bay, the headquarters of the Northern 
Yacht Club's fleets of pleasure boats — the lighthouse on the left 
is the " Cloch," one of the chief lights on the Clyde — we cross 
the Firth of Clyde to Dunoon, already described on page 502. 

Pursuing her course from Dunoon, the Iona hugs the shore 
of the Cowal peninsula, on which Dunoon is situated, passing 
the village of Indian on the right. Cowal terminates at Toward 
Point, on which a lighthouse has been erected. Rounding this, 
on our right we see Toward Castle, the residence of A. S. Fin- 
lay, Esq., and open Rothesay Bay in the Island of Bute. 

Rothesay 

[Hotels : "Star," "Queen's," "Victoria," "Bute Arms," and "Victoria 
Royal "], 

the county town of Bute, occupies the centre point of this semicir- 
cular bay, and must be of considerable antiquity, as the castle was 
built in 1 ico. Robert II., the first of the Stewarts, created his son 
Duke of Roth esay, a title now born bythe heir apparent to the Crown, 
The ruins of the castle consist of a circular court, about 500 feet 
in circumference, environed by massive walls, and strengthened 
by five towers, the whole surrounded by a fosse and terrace-walk. 
The temperature is so equable that Rothesay has been frequently 
styled the " Montpelier of Scotland," and is a favourite resort 
of consumptive invalids. 

The Island of Bute is eighteen miles in length, and from three to 
five broad. Mount Stuart, the seat of the Marquis of Bute, lies on 
the eastern coast, about five miles from Rothesay. But the steamer 



ROTHESA Y—LOCH FYNE. 539 

keeps the northern shore to the Kyles of Bute, as the sound between 
Cowal and the island is called. On the right-hand side two 
lochs are passed ; they run into the mainland, and exhibit some 
very wild and beautiful scenery. They are named Striven and 
Ridden, respectively. On the peninsula between them is 
situated Mr. Campbell's beautiful seat of South Hall, on the 
declivity of the mountain range of Argyle, which terminates here 
in a succession of circular cones. The trees to the west of the 
house are planted in two rows, to represent the positions of the 
French and English at Waterloo. The French are above, and 
charging the English below. Upon the right centre is an oblong 
clump, intended to represent the square of the 42nd, in which 
regiment the owner's father served as an officer at Waterloo. 

On the left hand, after leaving the bay, Port Bannatyne and 
Kaimes Castle may be seen on the island just before entering the 
narrow and charming windings of the Kyles. Between Colin- 
traive pier and the second of the lochs the sound is further 
narrowed by four small islets, called the Burnt Islands. A fort 
stands on one, which was erected by Argyle, in 1685, at the time 
of the Monmouth invasion. Dr. McCulloch says, "It is only 
by the fall and the rise of the tide, and the appearance of the 
seaweeds on the rocks, that we are led to suspect the maritime 
nature of this channel, since it is so far removed from the sea, 
and so involved in all that class of ornament and scenery which 
we are accustomed to associate with fresh water, that it is 
scarcely possible to divest ourselves of the idea of being in an 
inland lake. At the same time it is no less beautiful than extra- 
ordinary, the land rising suddenly and high from the water oftei. 
into lofty cliffs, interspersed and varied with wood, the trees 
growing from the fissures of the rocks even at the very margin 
of the sea, and aiding, with the narrowness of the strait and the 
height of the land, to produce a sober green, shadowy tone of 
forest scenery, which adds much to the romantic effect of this 
fairy-like sea." 

The Kyles end as the steamer approaches the comparatively 
open space between Lamont Point and Ettrick Bay, in Bute. 
Before rounding the point, Kaimes powder mills are seen on the 
right, and the island of Inchmarnock on the left, with the re- 
mains of a chapel. A stoppage is made at Tignabruaich pier, 
after which, rounding Lamont Point, we find ourselves in 

Loch Fyne, 

Here on the right is Aird Lamont House, the residence 
of the Lamont family. As the lona steams up this fine 
basin, the hills of Knapdale extend north and south on 
the left, while those of Cowal limit the prospect on the right ; 



540 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

away to the south lies Goatfell, the loftiest of Arran's granitic 
and grotesquely-shaped mountains. We now approach the 
village and harbour of East Tarbert, the head-quarters of the 
famous Loch Fyne herring fishery. The little harbour, which is 
overlooked by an old castle built by Bruce in 1326, is so locked 
in by rugged cliffs, and the entrance to its sheltering bosom is so 
narrow, that the steamer usually disembarks her passengers at a 
temporary pier erected outside the haven. Passing Barmore, 
the seat of Mr. Campbell, and Invemeil Kirk, we reach 

Ardrishaig 

[Hotel : ' ' Ardrishaig "], 
the eastern terminus of the Crinan Canal. This canal extends nine 
miles in length from Loch Fyne, or rather Loch Gilp, as the 
armlet on which the villages of Ardrishaig and Lochgilphead 
stand is called, to the Western Ocean, converting the Mull of 
Cantire into an island. It was constructed to save the circuitous 
passage round the Mull, a distance of seventy miles. There 
are fifteen locks to the canal, and the canal boat, for which 
the Iona is changed at Ardrishaig, makes the passage in about 
two hours. During the summer months, coaches ply between 
Ardrishaig and Ford on the shore of Loch Awe, whence a 
steamer runs to the head of the loch. There the coach is taken 
for Oban. 

For the first two miles the canal boat is drawn along the 
shore of Loch Gilp to the village of Lochgilphead, opposite 
which is Kilmory Castle, and its umbrageous grounds. On the 
left we now pass the mansion of Auchindarroch, the chapel and 
palace of the Bishop of Argyle, and the Argyleshire lunatic 
asylum. 

The canal now begins to descend to the Atlantic, and is here 
joined by the river Ard. Passing Poltalloch House, the old 
village of 

Crinan 
may be observed, crowning a rocky eminence, which becomes 
insulated at high water. Crinan stands near the extremity of the 
canal, opposite to the Castle of Duntroon and the picturesque 
island-studded Loch Craignish, on the right-hand side. The 
tourist here embarks once more in a steamer (on board of which 
dinner is served), and passes through what has been called a 
miniature Archipelago. The channel between Craignish Point 
and one of the chain of islands by which the loch is intersected 
is called the Dorishtmsohr, or Great Gate. On the left is the 
large island of Jura, with its three domed -shaped mountains, the 
" Paps," between which and Scarba, a little to the north-west, 
is the famous whirlpool of 



CQRRIE BHREACHAX. 541 



Corris Bhreachan 

(pronounced Corrivrechan), celebrated in the songs of Scott, 
Campbell, and Leyden. The whirlpool is caused by a sunken 
pyramidal rock, obstructing the tidal wave in its passage through 
the otherwise deep sound between the islands. As a matter of 
course, the whirlpool is the scene of a romantic legend, the most 
acceptable version of which runs as follows : — A certain Prince of 
Denmark, named Bhreachan, loved the King of Scotland's daugh- 
ter, but her father insisted upon a proof of his love, and it was de- 
cided that he should anchor his ship for three days and three nights 
in the whirlpool which now bears his name. This he unhesitatingly 
did, using, by the advice of a wizard, three cables, one of hemp, 
one of silk, and one of maidens' hair. The women of Denmark 
gave their hair to help the handsome prince, but one of them 
was not a maiden. On the first night, and the second, the 
hempen cable and the silken broke, but the ship rode safely till 
the dawn of the third day. Then the hair of the frail one 
snapped, and all the cable parted, so that the prince and his men 
went down in their ship ; and the place was called " Corrie 
Bhreachan," or Bhreachan's Cauldron. When the whirlpool is 
at its strongest the roar may be heard for miles, and it is averred 
that the shrieks of the ill-starred crew may yet be heard above 
the voice of the angry waters ; at flood- tide, with a strong 
south-westerly wind blowing, the effect is sublime. 

Groups of islands, called the Slate Islands,, are scattered on every 
side throughout the rest of the passage to Oban. Approaching 
the Sound of Kerrera, which terminates in the Bay of Oban, we 
pass between Luing and Scarba, and then between Easdale and 
Seil, at the former of which the steamer usually stops. One of 
the slate quarries in this island descends to the depth of 120 feet 
beneath the sea. The disposition of land and water on this coast 
suggests the idea that the ^Yestern Highlands, from the line in 
the interior, whence the river descends to the Atlantic, with the 
islands beyond to the outer Hebrides, are all parts of one great 
mountainous plain, inclined slantways into the sea. First, the 
long withdrawing valleys of the mainland, with their brown, 
mossy streams, change their character as they dip beneath the 
sea-level ; and become sea-water lochs. The lines of hills that 
rise over them jut out as promontories, till cut off by some 
transverse valley, lowered still more deeply into the brine, and 
that exists as a kyle, winch, or sound, swept twice every day by 
powerful currents. The sea deepens as the plain slopes down- 
ward ; mountain-chains stand up out of the water as large islands, 
single mountains as smaller ones, lower eminences as mere 
groups of pointed rocks, till at length, as we pass outwards, all 



trace of the submerged land disappears, and the wide ocean 
stretches out and away its unfathomable depths. At the entrance 
of Kerrera Sound, a beautiful vista extends in front ; it is closed on 
the one hand by the lofty cliffs of the island, on which stand the 
ruins of Gylen Castle, in which Alexander II. died, and on the 
other by Ben Cruachan, and the rocky shore of the mainland, 
which, from Loch Feochan and Ardincaple Point, is protected 
from the fury of the Atlantic by the island, which acts as a 
natural breakwater. 

Oban. 

[Hotels : "Alexandra," " Great Western/' "Imperial," "Caledonian," 
" Queen's," and " King's Arms," etc.] 

The steamer now enters the beautiful " White Bay " of Oban, 
which affords one of the safest anchorages in the kingdom. The 
town (population 2,413), with its white-walled houses (whence 
the name), extends along the graceful sweep of the bay, and is 
overhung from behind by an amphitheatre of green ivy-clad 
mountain cliffs. Steamers leave every morning for Fort Wil- 
liam, en 7'oicie for the Caledonian Canal and Inverness ; four times 
a week for Iona, Staffa, and the circuit of Mull ; and daily for 
Ballachulish and Glencoe. There is also coach communication 
with Ardrishaig, Loch Lomond {via Taynuilt, Dalmally, and 
Inverarnan), Loch Awe, Inverary, and Fort William. 

Jkmolly Castls 

stands on a rugged promontory about half a mile north 
of the town. It belongs at present to Admiral St. John 
McDougall, the representative of the ancient lords of Lorn, 
who opposed the passage of Bruce after the battle of Methven. 
The brooch torn from the King's cloak in the struggle is still 
preserved by the McDougails, and is known as the "Brooch of 
Lorn." Visitors to the ruins are admitted through the lodge 
gate on certain days, but the castle can be reached at any time, 
by water. "The principal part which remains," says Scott, "is 
the donjon or keep, but fragments of other buildings, overgrown 
with ivy, attest that it had once been a place of importance, as 
large, apparently, as Ardtornish or Dunstaffhage. These frag- 
ments enclose a courtyard, of which the keep probably formed 
one side, the entrance being by a steep ascent from the neck of 
the isthmus, formerly cut across by a moat, and defended, doubt- 
less, by out-works and a drawbridge. Beneath the castle stands 
the present mansion of the family, having on the one hand Loch 
Etive, with its islands and mountains, on the other two romantic 
eminences tufted with copsewood. There are other accompani- 
ments suited to the scene ; in particular, a huge upright pillar or 



DUNSTAFFNAGE CASTLE. 543 

detached fragment of the sort of rock called plum-pudding stone, 
upon the shore, about a quarter of a mile from the castle. It is 
called Clach-na-choin, or the Dog's Pillar, because Fingal is said 
to have used it as a stake to which he bound his celebrated dog 
Bran. Others say that when the Lord of the Isles came upon a 
visit to the Lord of Lorn, the dogs brought for his sport were 
kept beside this pillar. Upon the whole, a more delightful and 
romantic spot can scarce be conceived." 

Bunstaffnage Castle 

is situate about three miles north of Oban, on the southern 
promontory at Loch Etive's mouth, and facing the fertile slopes 
of the island of Lismore — i.e. the "Great Garden." It 
is not historically certain when this royal pile was erected ; 
but there can be no doubt that it was the residence of the 
Dalriadic kings, and the seat of government from the year 500 
to the period of the Pictish invasion. Here was preserved 
the famous coronation stone, until removed by Kenneth II. to 
Scone in 842, whence it was conveyed to London by Edward I., 
after his subjugation of the country. It is now in Westminster 
Abbey, set in Edward the Confessor's chair of oak. An old 
prophecy, supposed to have been engraved on the groove at the 
bottom of the stone, ran thus : — 

" Ni falleat fatum, Scot!, quocunque locatum 
Invenient lapidem, regnare tenentur ibidem.' 

and has been rendered — 

"Unless old prophecies and words are vain, 
Where'er this stone is found the Scots shall reign." 

This prophecy was fulfilled when James VI. of Scotland became 
also James I. of England. It has been removed from West- 
minster Abbey but once since it was deposited there, on the 
installation of Cromwell, in Westminster Hall, as Lord Pro- 
tector. The castle appears to have been quadrangular, with 
circular towers at the corners. About 150 yards off are the roof- 
less ruins of an old chapel, exhibiting some remains of tasteful 
Gothic architecture. The view from the battlements of Dun- 
staffnage is delightful, and will probably tempt the tourist to visit 
the salt-water fall at Connell Ferry, on Loch Etive, the noise of 
which can be heard at the ruins. Tourists wishing for a more 
detailed description will do well to consult Shaw's Shilling 
Guide to the district. 



544 LONDON AND NORTH- WESTERN GUIDE. 



EXCURSION XXI 
OBAN TO STAFFA AND IONA. 

STEAMERS leave Oban every Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, 
and Saturday, to make the tour of the island of Mull, stop- 
ping at the islands of Staffa and Iona long enough to allow an 
inspection of their natural and artificial wonders. The voyage 
occupies about eleven hours in calm weather ; when it is other- 
wise we should not recommend tourists to make the excursion, 
unless they are good sailors. Leaving Oban, the steamer crosses 
the mouth of Loch Linnhe, passing Lismore on the right, and 
keeping Mull on the left. On the former will be seen the ruins 
of Achinduin Castle, crowning the apex of a high rock at the 
north-western shore. The "Lady's Rock/' near at hand, is 
visible only at low water. Here Maclean of Duart, whose castle 
appears on our left, exposed his wife, that she might be carrried 
away by the flowing tide. The story is finely worked up in 
Joanna Baillie's tragedy of the Eamily Legend. 

At the eastern headland, guarding the mouth of Loch Aline, 
which runs up into Ossian's country of Morven, stand the ruins 
of Ardtornish Castle. In this ancient stronghold of the Lord of 
the Isles, John of the Isles, the then lord, concluded the treaty 
by which he bound himself to support Edward IV. of England 
against the Scottish king. Loch Aline House occupies the pro- 
montory on the other side of the loch, and on the opposite shore 
the steamer now reaches Aros Bay, the village of Salen, and 
Aros Castle. From this point a view is obtained of the saddle- 
shaped summit of Bentallach (2,800 feet), and the sfill loftier 
ridge of Benmore (3,000 feet), in the interior of Mull. The coast 
of the island now becomes much bolder and more precipitous, 
and is generally well wooded. Meantime, on the Morven coast, 
we are passing the Roman Catholic Chapel lately erected on the 
site of Drimnin House ; and close by may be seen the remains 
of Kill undine Castle. 

Tobermory. 

[Hotel: "Royal. "J 

Turning to the left, we enter the harbour of Tobermory, 
or the "Well of Mary," so called from a "holy well" near 
the town. This is the capital of Mull ; and if its size cannot 
command respect, its surroundings, of sylvan beauty and maritime 
grandeur, must extort our admiration. The little harbour is land- 
locked by the verdant island of Coloe, or Colay ; it has high, 




FIN'GAL^S CAVE., STAFFA. 



rocky, wooded banks, forming a sheltering margin inside. One 
of the vessels o*~ the Spanish Armada was captured and sunk op- 
posite the harbou r by Maclean of Duart, and several of her guns 
have lately been recovered. It was here that Dr. Johnson and 
Boswell landed when visiting Mull during their Hebridean tour. 
Two miles north of Tobermory, on the left, we pass Bloody Bay, 
so called as being the scene of a naval battle between two clans. 
Hard by is the lighthouse of Runa-Gal, warning strangers of the 
dangers of this part of the rocky coast. Opposite, on the right, 
is Loch Sunart, and, farther out, the point of Ardnamurchan, 
the most westerly cape of Scotland. Between the loch and the 
point is the Castle of Mingarry, erected on the summit of a per- 
pendicularly scarped rock. The steamer is now on the broad 
Atlantic, and steers, in a southerly direction, towards Staffa. 
Before rounding Callioch Point, 

Sunepol House 

is seen on the beach ; here the poet Campbell lived as a tutor in 
his youth, and here he composed his Exile of Eri)i and much of 
the Pleasures of Hope. From Callioch Point he could behold 
thirteen islands, and, in his Elegy written in Mull, has told us 
how much his romantic imagination was fed by the 

" White wave foaming to the sky, . . . 
The dark blue rocks in barren grandeur piled." 

The steamer now approaches the 

Tresnish Isles, 

a ridge extending for five miles in a north-easterly direction, and 
in some degree forming a breakwater, towards the north-west, 
for the island of Staffa and the bay of Loch Tua, in Mull. The 
group consists of four principal islands — Cairnburg (really two 
distinct islands), Fladda, Linga, and Bach — in addition to a 
number of intervening rocks. We next pass the columnar island 
of Geometray, — 

'"'And Ulva dark, and Colonsay, 
And all the group of islets gay 
That guard famed Staffa round." 

Rather closer to the shore of Mull is a little uninhabited island, 
called Inchkenneth, where the chief of the Macleans formerly 
resided, and hospitably entertained Dr. Johnson. 

Staffa. 

At length we reach Staffa, at a distance of about eight miles 
from the west coast of Mull. It is nearly oval in .shape, and 



546 LOXDOX AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 



54 



rather more than a mile in circumference. .The highest point 
lies to the south-west, and is about 144 feet above the sea. The 
islet is covered with luxuriant grass, which affords pasture for a 
few cattle. The entire facade of the island, the arches, and the 
floorings of the caves, strangely resemble architectural designs 
and are frequently described by terms borrowed from the tech- 
nical vocabulary of the art. Even the surface of the summit of 
the island, presenting at several points the ends of small columns 
projecting from the irregular basalt, may aptly be compared to a 
tesselated pavement. The caves are so numerous that the whole 
circuit of the island is perforated with them ; but the marvels of 
Staffa are found on the eastern side, where those scenes are dis- 
played which for so many years have been the theme of poets 
and the inspiration of artists. 

The steamer usually disembarks her passengers on the eastern 
side, as it is more accessible than the others. Here, landing in 
a small boat, the tourist will visit the Clam, or Scallop-shell Cave, 
and the Buachaille, or Herdsman, which is separated from the 
main island by a narrow channel, through which the transparent 
sea- water dashes impetuously. ''This lesser isle," says Wilson, 
"is in itself a perfect gem in respect to its beauty of basaltic 
structure, being composed entirely of the most symmetrical 
columnar forms, several of them bent in a peculiar manner, and 
the generality lying on their sides." 

From the Herdsman the tourist proceeds to 

Fingal's Cave, 

thus described by the geologist McCulloch : "The sides of this 
cave are, like the front, columnar, and, in a general sense, per- 
pendicular. The columns are frequently broken, and irregularly 
grouped, so as to catch a variety of direct and reflected tints, 
mixed with, unexpected shadows, that produce a picturesque 
effect which no regularity could have given. The ceiling is 
various in different parts of the cave. The surfaces of the 
columns above are sometimes distinguished from each other by 
the infiltration of carbonate of lime into their interstices. It 
would be no less presumptuous than useless to attempt the 
description of the picturesque effect of that to which the pencil 
itself is inadequate. But even if this cave were destitute of that 
order and symmetry, that richness, arising from multiplicity of 
parts, which it possesses, still the prolonged depth, the twilight 
gloom, half concealing the playful and varying effects of reflected 
light, the echo of the measured surge as it rises and falls, the 
transparent green of the water, and the profound and fairy soli- 
tude of the whole scene, could not fail strongly to impress a mind 
gifted with any sense of beauty in art or in nature." The arched 



IOXA. 547 

opening of Fingal's Cave is nearly seventy feet in height, and 
supports a mass of about thirty feet more ; the chasm attains a 
length of some 230 feet. The remaining portions of the island 
comprise the Boat Cave, the Great Colonnade, and Mackinnon's, 
or the Cormorant's Cave. 

Iona. 

[Hotel: "St. Columba"]. 

Returning to the steamer we now proceed to Iona, which lies 
about nine miles to the south. In any other situation the remains 
of Iona would be consigned to neglect and oblivion ; but con- 
nected as they are with an age distinguished by the ferocity of its 
manners and its independence of regular government — standing 
a solitary monument of religion and literature — the mind imper- 
ceptibly returns to the time when this island wes the "light of 
the western world," a gem in the ocean, and is led to contem- 
plate with veneration its silent and ruined structures. The island 
is variously called Iona, a corruption of Ithona the Island of the 
Waves), and Icolmkill (the Isle of St. Columba's Cell). Its sur- 
face is low, in comparison with the other islands, and it is but two 
miles and a half in length by one in breadth. It has no harbour, 
and only a very rude pier. Visitors must therefore land by means 
of small boats ; but few will be deterred by this drawback from 
treading the sacred ground of the " blessed isle." " That man," 
says Dr. Johnson, "is little to be envied whose patriotism would 
not gain force upon the plains of Marathon, or whose piety 
would not grow warmer among the ruins of Iona ! " 

The village consists of a row of about fifty cottages, which 
form what is called the "street : " one of these has been con- 
stituted an hotel. St. Columba took up his abode on the 
island in the year 563, bringing the light of learning from Ireland, 
and it soon became famous for its saints. Shortly after another 
seed of fame was sown, by its being selected as a place of sepul- 
tiue by the Scottish kings, who thought thus to save their remains 
from the fate awaiting those buried in less-favoured spots ; for it 
was foretold that, 

" Seven years before that awful day 

When time shall be no more, 
A watery deluge will o'er-sweep 

Hibernia's mossy shore. 
The green-clad Isla, too, shall sink, 

While, with the great and good ; 
Columba's happy isle shall rear 

Her towers above the flood." 

Nothing now remains of the nunnery but the chapel, which is 
in the Norman style : the chancel, nave, and portions of a vaulted 



roof can still be seen. Inside is the tomb of the Prioress Anna, 
with a Latin inscription. From the nunnery the tourist is gene- 
rally conducted to Reilig Orain, the burial-ground, passing on the 
way Maclean's Cross, one of the only two remaining entire out 
of 360. The carving on the cross is of scroll-work, and is a very 
fine specimen of pristine workmanship. In the cemetery lie 
buried forty kings of Scotland (the last being Macbeth), two 
Irish and one French king, besides innumerable princes, chieftains, 
and monks. 

St. Oran's Chapel is within the boundaries of the cemetery, and 
is the oldest ruin on the island. It is forty feet by twenty-two, 
and is supposed to have been partly erected late in the eleventh 
century, by St. Margaret, queen of Malcolm Canmore, upon the 
site of the original cell. The triple arch in the interior is of a 
later date. This arch seems to have formed a canopy to the tomb 
of St. Oran, at least the place is pointed out as such ; but the 
graves have been so often rifled that it is a matter of doubt 
whether the saint's remains are on the island at all. Notice also 
the mutilated cross of Abbot Mackinnon, and other monumental 
stones, exhibiting every description of workmanship, from the most 
exquisite tracery to the rudest of attempts at sculptured figures. 
Among them is the tomb of Angus Macdonald, Scott's ' ' Lord of 
the Isles," and here lies one of the Argyle family, the only 
Campbell buried on the island. The Runic cross of St. Martin 
stands in front of the cathedral church of St. Mary. It is cut 
out of a solid block of red granite, and is fourteen feet high, and 
eighteen inches broad. Its proportions and the Runic sculpture 
are very much admired. 

The cathedral is of the usual cruciform design, 1 60 feet by 
twenty-four, but built in so many different styles of architecture 
that we must suppose additions and alterations to have been made 
from time to time, down to the sixteenth century. The square 
tower, at the intersection of the nave and transept, rises upwards 
of seventy feet in height, and is supported by four arches, and 
plain cylindrical columns with grotesquely sculptured capitals. 
The cloisters, the bishop's house, and the alleged burying-place 
of St. Columba are also pointed out. After leaving the Blessed 
Isle, the steamer hugs the southern shore of the Ross of Mull, 
passing the Corsaig Arches and the ivy-clad castle of Moy at 
Loch Buy, where Dr. Johnson was so hospitably entertained by 
the Macleans. The steamer now crosses from Mull towards the 
Sound of Kerrera, which she enters at the mouth, already de- 
scribed in our account of the voyage from Crinan. 



GLEXCOE. 549 



SECTION LX. 

OBAN, via BALLACKTJLISH AND GLENCOE, TO FORT 
WILLIAM. 

AVERY pleasant voyage may be made from Oban, to Balla- 
chulish and Glencoe, where the clan Macdonald were so 
foully massacred in 1692. This incident, an ineffaceable blot 
on the reign of William III., is too well known to need a 
detailed description. WilHam himself wrote, after the issuing 
of the " Proclamation of Indemnity:" " As for the clan 
Mclan of Glencoe, and that tribe, if they can be well distin- 
guished from the rest of the Highlanders, it will be proper, 
for vindication of public justice, to extirpate that set of thieves." 
The warrant was signed and countersigned in the king's own 
handwriting, and was executed under circumstances of the 
foulest treachery. Campbell of Glenlyon, who commanded the 
band of murderers, was uncle to young Macdonald's wife. He 
and his men were received as friends, and lived for a fortnight 
on the hospitality of their intended victims, till, on the night of the 
13th February, they were joined by more soldiers, and, falling upon 
their entertainers, massacred them under circumstances of the 
most hideous brutality. Macaulay says : " How many old men, 
how many women with babes in their arms, sank down and slept 
their last night in the snow ; how many, having crawled, spent 
with toil and hunger, into nooks among the precipices, died in 
those dark holes, and were picked to the bone by mountain ravens 
— can never be known. But it is probable that those who 
perished by cold, weariness, and want were not less numerous 
than those who were slam by the assassins." The excursion can 
be made by steamer, any day but Sunday, returning to Oban the 
same evening. Or the tourist, en route for Inverness, can stop 
at the Ballachulish Hotel, and proceed next day through the 
Caledonian Canal. The steamer generally leaves at six in the 
morning, and, steaming past Dunolly and Dunstafmage Castles, 
enters the sound between Lismore and the mainland. Approach- 
ing the northern extremity of Lismore, Eriska Island, blocking 
up the mouth of Loch Creran, is passed on the right, and soon 
after the steamer enters the Sound of Shuna, between the island 
of that name on the left, and Castle Stalker on the mainland. This 
castle was built by Stuart of Appin for the accommodation of 
James IV. The clan Stuart were among the most devoted ad- 
herents of the royal house of Stuart, and many relics of that 
ill-fated family are in possession of Stuart of Appin. 



550 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

The steamer is now fairly on the waters of Loch Linnhe, the 
first of that series of inland lochs by which the water com- 
munication is maintained between Fort William and Inverness. 
Passengers are landed at Ballachulish, at the mouth of Loch 
Leven. The scenery approaching this point is very grand ; the 
hills, ranging from 2,000 feet downwards, and the Bo ^ of 
Glencoe, with Ben Nevis over-topping all on the r»o- 
most picturesque adjuncts to the scenery. Baiiachulish is 
remarkable for its enormous quarries of roofing-slate. From 
Ballachulish the tourists are conveyed by coach to Glencoe. 
Sufficient time is allowed for visitors to make a superficial 
inspection of the glen. The chief points of interest are Ossian's 
Cave, a hole in the mountain-side inaccessible to any but good 
climbers, a small waterfall known as Ossian's Bath, and the 
beautiful little river Cona, so celebrated in the magnificent 
poems of the ancient bard of the Highlands. 

When the tourist returns to the steamer he is once more 
carried along the waters of Loch Linnhe to Loch Eil. At the 
head of this loch is situated the district of the Camerons, and 
the Vale of Glenfinnan, where Prince Charles Edward unfurled 
his standard in 1745. 

Fort William. 

Hotels: "Caledonian," " Temperance/' and "Queen's."] 
Fort William is situated on the eastern shore of Loch Eil, 
where it bends eastward to Prince Charles's monument and Glen- 
finnan. On the right of the fort rises Ben Nevis, the highest 
of the Highland mountains, to the altitude of 4,406 feet. The 
present fort was built in the reign of William and Mary, on the 
site of an older edifice, erected by General Monk to overawe 
Cameron of Loch Eil into submission to the Protectorate. The 
little town which has sprung up near the fort has three hotels, 
and has been built with some pretensions to regularity. 
Inverlochy Castle, which, according to tradition, belonged in 
succession to all the great personages, mythical and otherwise, 
of ancient Scotland, stands at the mouth of the river Lundie, 
a little north of the fort. It consists of four circular towers 
joined by a wall some twenty feet high, forming a quadrangle of 
considerable dimensions, and must have been a far more im- 
portant fortress than Fort William. On the neighbouring plain 
was fought the bloody battle of Inverlochy, in which Montrose 
defeated the Argyles and the Campbells in 1645. From Mary- 
birrgh, where she lands passengers for Fort William, the steamer 
proceeds to Corpach, on the northern shore of Loch Eil and the 
entrance to the Caledonian Canal. 



THE CALEDONIAN CANAL. 551 



SECTION LXI. 

FORT WILLIAM TO INVERNESS, via CALEDONIAN 
CANAL. 

THE entrance has now been reached of the Caledonian Canal. 
This great undertaking has cost the nation ,£ 1 , 2 00, 000. 1 1 is 
sixty miles in length, thirty-eight miles of which are made up by 
the waters of Lochs Lochy, Oich, and Ness, the remaining 
twenty- two miles being cut ; its depth is twenty feet. There 
are twenty-eight locks, each about 180 feet long, and forty in 
breadth. The Lochiel Hotel is about a mile from Corpach Pier. 
Here tourists usually put up if they mean to make a stay in 
order to ascend Ben Nevis and visit the vitrified fort and the 
parallel roads of Glenroy. Between Corpach and Banavie 
there are eight locks, appropriately called " Neptune's Stair- 
case," by which the canal makes its ascent across the rising 
country. To avoid the delay of such ascent, the tourist usually 
embarks at Banavie, which can be reached by omnibus. The 
canal steamboat now commences the voyage up to Inverness. On 
the right stand the ruins of Tor Castle, of which nothing certain 
is known, except that it belonged to the chief of the Mackintoshes. 
The ascent to the waters of Loch Lochy is made by two locks. 
This sheet of water is ten miles in length ; its first portion is 
known as the ' ■ Dark Mile. " Here is Achnacarry House, the seat 
of the chief of the Cameron clan, and, hard by, the ruins of the 
old residence, burned by the Duke of Cumberland after the battle 
of Culloden. Behind this, on the left, stretches the beautiful and 
romantic Loch Arkaig, containing the island burial-place of 
Locheil. Loch Oich is about three miles and a half 1 ong, and 
much varied in outline. On the left, where the river Garry 
discharges the waters of the loch of that name into Loch 
Oich, are the ruins of Invergarry Castle. The Well of the 
Seven Heads, on the roadside near the ruins, is surmounted by 
a monument commemorating the summary execution of seven 
brothers who murdered two of their kinsmen in order to enjoy 
their estate. The monument was erected by the eccentric Colonel 
MacDonald, of Glengarry, who is supposed to have been the 
original of Scott's Fergus Mclvor in Waverley, At Aber- 
chalder, on the north-western extremity of Loch Oich, where 
Prince Charles assembled his forces before proceeding south, the 
descent to Loch Ness begins. The cutting is two miles in length, 
and, as the steamer takes an hour and a half to pass the seven locks, 
tourists generally walk, and may visit the vitrified fort of Torduin. 
Loch Ness is twenty-four miles long, one and a half in breadth, 



552 LOXDON AND NORTH- WESTERN GUIDE. 

and in many places nearly 800 feet deep, for which reason it is 
never frozen over. The scenery of Loch Ness was much admired 
by Dr. Johnson ; and though that lover of town life cannot be 
upheld as an authority on such a point, still there is much that 
is agreeable in the wooded sides of the valley. About six miles 
from Fort Augustus, there is a pier, and a comfortable hotel at 
Invermoriston, on the left. But the greatest attraction of this 
loch is not reached for six miles farther, when the steamer stops 
at the pier of Foyers, to afford an opportunity of visiting the 
celebrated falls of that name. Time is allowed only to visit the 
lower fall, but this is by far the grandest, descending through a 
narrow gap over a precipice ninety feet in height. The height 
of the three leaps united is 200 feet. Having viewed this, the 
finest cascade in the kingdom, the tourist re- embarks and resumes 
his journey down Loch Ness. On the opposite shore to the falls 
he soon reaches Urquhart Castle, standing on a promontory of a 
little bay at the base of the Maolfourvinie mountain. In the 
beginning of the tenth century, it fell into the hands of the chief 
of the Grant clan (Earl of Seafield), and has since continued 
to belong to that family. It was taken in 1303 by Edward I. 

The next object of interest, at the north-eastern extremity of 
the lake, is Aldaurnie House, the birth-place of Sir James 
Mackintosh, historian and philosopher. Loch Dochfoir is now 
entered, through a narrow channel, near which are traces of a 
Roman encampment and the splendid seat of Dochfoir Flouse. 
Here the steamer enters the cutting once more, and proceeds to 
Muirtown, the north-eastern terminus of the canal. About a 
mile south of this is the city of Inverness. 

Inverness, 

[Hotels: ''Station," "Railway,- "Caledonian," " Union," "Royal," and 
" Queen's."] 

This city (population 14,463), the capital of the Highlands, is 
finely situated on the right bank of the river Ness. The streets 
are regularly built, and, though of great antiquity, the city having 
been created into a royal burgh by David I., present quite a 
modem appearance. The Town Hall, in High Street, contains 
some pictures and the "Stone of the Tubs" (so called from its 
having been used at one time as a resting-place for their vessels 
by persons drawing water from the river), which has been pre- 
served with the greatest care since Ronald of the Isles burnt the 
town on his way to the battle of Harlaw, in 141 1. 

The old cross of Inverness is built into the wall, where it may 
be seen, surmounted by the arms of the town and those of the 
kingdom. The Castle was one of the strongholds of Macbeth, 
and is traditionally the place in which Duncan the Meek was 



murdered. This, however, is open to much doubt. It was 
razed to the ground by Duncan's son, Malcolm, who built on its 
site another castle, which was destroyed by Montrose in 1646. 
Two bastions and part of a curtain are all that now remain. 
The new cathedral stands on the opposite side of the river ; it is 
in the Gothic style and highly decorated, with some very fine 
stained-glass windows. Outside the town, near the firth, stood 
Cromwell's fort, which was razed after the Restoration. A mile 
away on the opposite side of the town is Craig Phadric, (the hill 
of Patrick) a hill on which stands a vitrified fort. 

An excursion should be made to Culloden Moor. The train 
brings the tourists within a mile of the battle-field. Here Prince 
Charles Edward fought Lis last battle for the crown of his fore- 
fathers, on the 1 6th April, 1746. The moor is a gloomy tract, 
and the rising ground where the hottest of the fight raged is 
covered by a spruce-fir plantation. The cruelties practised by 
the Duke of Cumberland after the battle are still remembered 
with execration by the inhabitants. About a mile south, across 
the river Nairn, is the plain of Clava, on which are some stone 
circles and cairns, 



EXCURSION XXII. 

INVERNESS TO ISLE OF SKYE AND BACK. 

To Skye, by Rail, via Dingwall. 

^F^HE railway communication between Dingwall and Strome 
X Ferry for Skye has only been established since September, 
1870, and affords the greatest advantages to the tourists. _ Leaving 
Inverness, the line runs along the shore of Beauly Firth, and 
passing through parts of the Bunelerew and Lovat Estates, crosses 
the river Beauly, famed for its scenery. From Beauly the train 
runs due north to Dingwall, across the peninsula formed by the 
firths of Moray and Cromarty, and called the Black Isle. 

Dingwall. 

[Hotels : " Caledonian " and "National."] 
Dingwall (population 2,125) is the county town of Rosshire, 
and is rising into importance now that the railway has made 
ingress and egress an easy matter. Proceeding westward from 
the town the Castle of Tulloch is seen on the north, with its 
beautifully wooded park stretching away to the base of snowclad 



554 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

Ben Wyvis. On the south is Druimchat, or the Cat's Back, on 
the summit of which stands the largest and best preserved speci- 
men of the vitrified forts, constructed by the Picts — this bears 
the name of Knockfarrel. We now cross the Peffery and com- 
mence the ascent of the steep incline to Strath peffer station 
(four miles and a half from Dingwall), about a mile and a half 
from which is a spa, little known until it became accessible by 
rail, but now yearly becoming more fashionable. Some interest- 
ing excursions can be made in the neighbourhood, and it is 
decidedly the best starting-point for the ascent of Ben Wyvis, 
the " Mountain of Storms." The falls of Rogie, in a picturesque 
surrounding of birch-clad mountains, are distant about five miles. 

Approaching Garve, the next station, the line crosses the 
Blackwater close to some falls, and then follows the sweep 
of the northern shore of Loch Luichart, affording glimpses of 
some charming scenery. With occasional views of the lake 
and Kinloch-Luichart lodge, the train at length crosses the 
Carron by a fine iron girder bridge of ioo feet span, and 
skirts the rapids of Gradie before reaching the margin of Loch 
Cullin. Achanault is the next station, and here the tourist will 
notice the change in the character of the scenery, the verdure 
becoming greener and the mountains more picturesque in out- 
line. Six miles and a half beyond this we reach Achna- 
sheen, where travellers can stop to make an excursion to Loch 
Maree and the ruggedly grotesque mountains between it and 
Gairloch. After Achnasheen is left behind, the railway follows 
the windings of the Led Gowan River to Loch Gowan. Soon 
after the Ault Gargan is crossed, the last stream running east- 
ward, and marking the vicinity of the watershed of the country. 
The train now descends by the banks of the Carron to Strath- 
Carron station, whence the Udale, a stream running out of Glen 
Udale, is crossed ; and the line for the remaining eight miles fol- 
lows the line of the southern shore of Loch Carron, stopping 
at Strome Ferry. 

The steamer leaves for Skye soon after the arrival of the first 
train from Dingwall. Opening the mouth of Loch Carron we 
get a view of Skye and the Cuchullin Hills. Steaming along- 
shore for Broadford, in the middle of a bay of the same name, 
the little green island of Pabba is passed, described by Hugh 
Miller as like "a little bit of flat, fertile England, laid down, 
as if for contrast's sake, amid the wild rough Hebrides." It is a 
rich gleaning ground for the geologist, and may be reached in 
a small sailing boat from Broadford, which latter village is often 
made a centre for excursions, as it contains a convenient hotel. 
Leaving Broadford the vessel passes the island of Scalpa, 
Lochs Ainort and Sligachan, divided from each other by one 



PORTREE. 555 



mile and a half of coast line, with the fine peak of Glamaig 
showing at the head of the latter. Passing through Rasay 
Sound, with Rasay or Raasay Island on the right, the steamer 
makes for the singularly majestic entrance to Loch Portree, des- 
cribed by Hugh Miller as " a palace gateway, erected in front 
of some homely suburb that occupies the place which the palace 
itself should have occupied." 

Portree 

[Hotels : " Portree," " Royal,'' and "Caledonian "] 
is situated on rising ground on the right hand of the loch, and is 
usually reached about eight o'clock in the evening. The 679 
inhabitants do a large fishing trade during the herring season. 

The island of Skye is the largest of the group, termed the 
" Inner Hebrides." In length about fifty miles, it varies in 
breadth from four to twenty-four miles. Its whole coast is 
indented with so many inlets and lochs that scarce one spot is 
more than four miles from the sea. It is a rich ground for the 
geologist, abounding in fossil remains, with specimens of 
columnar basalt, as in its " Storr Rock " and "Quiraing," the 
crowning point of interest being the stupendous peaks of 
Amygdaloidal Trap, of the Cuchullin Range. 

Portree is an excellent centre from whence to visit many 
spots of interest : Prince Charles's Cave, where the prince 
found shelter after his ill-fated attempt to regain the throne of 
his fathers ; Storr Rock, a rugged, grand mountain, with a 
perpendicular cliff descending 500 feet from the summit ; the 
Quiraing, nearly 1,800 feet high, consisting on the north-east 
side of precipitous columnar basalt and fluted rocks, sloping on 
the west, the summit a turf-covered platform, surrounded by 
pinnacled peaks and columns ; and Loch Coruisk, the finest in the 
island. Its situation is singularly wild and grandly picturesque, 
surrounded by the Cuchullin Hills, full of the most grotesque, 
pinnacled and rugged forms. The tourist may return to Broadford 
from Loch Coruisk, and thence to Inverness, or start on the re- 
turn trip from Portree. 

Should the tourist wish to journey further north, he may return 
to Dingwall, from whence the railway (passing Dunrobin, the 
princely seat of the Duke of Sutherland, en route) runs along the 
northern shores of the Moray Firth to Helmsdale, and inland to 
Halkirk, whence the line branches to Wick and Thurso. From 
the latter port, a visit may be paid to the Orkney and Shetland 
islands, rendered classic by Scott in his Pii-ate. At Kirkwall, the 
ancient cathedral of St. Magnus, founded in 1138, and the ruins 
of the adjoining palaces, are among the objects worthy of note. 



556 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 



SECTION LXII. 

INVERNESS, via FORRES AND HIGHLAND RAILWAY, 
TO PERTH AND STIRLING. 

TURNING his face southward once more, the tourist has 
the choice of two routes, the one by the Highland Railway, 
running through the heart of the country to Perth ; while the 
other, by Elgin, Aberdeen, and Forfar, runs to the same point, — 
for a great part of the way, by the sea coast. 

Leaving Inverness by the first-mentioned line, the train runs 
past Culloden Moor (page 553) to Dalcross, with its old castle. 
To the left is Fort George, erected after the suppression of the 
rebellion of 1745, in order to keep the Highlanders in check. 
The fortifications cover about fifteen English acres, and there is 
accommodation for nearly two thousand men. The fort, which 
is built on the plan of the principal European fortresses, is 
situated on a sandy promontory running northwards into the 
Moray Firth, at the extremity of which is Campbeltown, a small 
fishing village, named after the Campbells of Cawdor. Two 
miles further on we reach 

Nairn 

(population 4,220), an ancient royal burgh, and has lately 
risen into some importance as a fashionable watering-place. 
In the vicinity, at distances of a mile and a half and five miles 
respectively, are the ruins of Rait Castle, a stronghold of the 
Mackintoshes, and Cawdor Castle ; the latter is interesting from 
an architectural point of view, as well as from its picturesqueness 
of situation and the curious legend of its foundation. The 
Thane of Cawdor, having received license from King James II., 
in 1454, to erect a fortified castle, consulted a proficient in the 
black art as to the best site for his intended residence, and having 
been directed to raise the walls round the third hawthorn-tree at 
which an ass laden with gold should stop, he did so. The tree 
may still be seen in a room on the basement floor of the tower, 
where it has remained ever since. 

Leaving Nairn station, the train is carried over the river of that 
name by a handsome stone viaduct of four arches of ninety feet 
span each ; and passing through Sir J. Dunbar's estate of Boath, 
where Montrose defeated the Covenanters in 1645, reaches Hard- 
moor, "the blasted heath — " where the three witches respectively 
hailed Macbeth, Thane of Glamis, Thane of Cawdor, and King. 
The clump of dark pines on a rising ground to the right of the 
line is pointed out as the identical spot where Banquo and Macbeth 



met the weird sisters. On the same side of the line, about two 
miles distant, is Darnaway Castle, the seat of the Earl of Moray. 
In the vale of Findhorn, on the left of the line, are the beautiful 
seats of Dalvey House and Brodie House, the former of which is 
famed for its exquisite flower-gardens. The river Findhorn is 
now crossed by an iron tubular bridge 450 feet in length, and the 
train reaches 

Forres. 

[Hotels : "Fraser's" and " Railway."] 
This town (population 3,959), which was created into a royal 
burgh in the reign of William the Lion, is built on a gravel 
bank at the mouth of the Findhorn, and consists almost entirely 
of one long street, the houses of which exhibit the pointed gables 
and low doorways of the Saxon period. The town cross is in 
the decorated Gothic style, and there are two conspicuous monu- 
ments : one to Dr. Thomson, who lost his own life through his 
devoted care of the wounded in the Crimea, is on a mound which 
in former times was successively occupied as a site by a Roman 
fortress and a baronial castle ; the second, or Nelson's Tower, 
stands on a hill to the south of the town. The castle, of which 
all traces have disappeared, was the destination of Macbeth and 
Banquo when confronted by the witches. About a mile and 
a half east of the town is the famous " Sweno's Stone," a pillar 
about twenty feet high, carved over with figures of warriors, 
mounted and on foot, besides birds, animals, and Runic knots, 
all cut in alto relievo. Antiquarians are at variance as to the 
date and cause of its erection, but it is generally believed to re- 
cord the final defeat of the Danes, in 1014. The scenery of the 
Forres district is very highly eulogized in Wild Sports of the 
West, by Mr. St. John. 

Leaving this richly-cultivated region, the line lies over the 
Rafford embankment and through a deep cutting, whence it 
issues to the banks of the Altyre Burn, and through a portion 
of the demesne of Altyre, the seat of Sir Gordon Cumming, 
Bart., on to Dunphail, on approaching which views are had of 
the receding Moray Firth and the Mountains of Ross, Inverness, 
and even (in fine weather) of Sutherland and Caithness. Leav- 
ing Dunphail, the Divie viaduct, a handsome structure of seven 
arches, the span of which is forty-five feet, and the height 106 
feet, is crossed. Passing through a long cutting the train now 
makes the ascent towards Achanlochan. Loch-an-Dorb, two 
miles on the right of the line, contains an islet with an area of 
an acre, the whole of which is covered by a quadrangular for- 
tress of the Comyns, which Edward I. was at great pains to 
take. ■ Passing Dava station, the line enters on the Earl of Sea 



558 LOXDOX AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

field's lands, and descends from Brae Moray through a rocky 
defile, whose sides are covered with birch and fir, to Grant Castle, 
at the entrance of the glen, whence several deep cuttings and 
long embankments lead to Grantown. The " Haughs of Crom- 
dale," in the neighbourhood, were the scene of a bloody conflict 
between King William's troops and the Jacobite adherents, in 
1690. 

The line now crosses the Allan Water and D 11 main, and passes 
Broomhill station on to the Boat of Garten Junction, whence it 
runs over an undulating gravel plain above the Spey, and then 
through a fir wood to the cultivated plain on which the Aviemore 
station is situated. Some delightful excursions can be made 
from this spot to Loch Aan, Loch-an-Eilan Castle, Glenmore, 
and the Grampian Hills, of which Ben Muich Dhui rises to the 
height of 4,295 feet. About a mile from here the tourist may 
see a wall running down the mountain-side from the north. 
This is the boundary between Strathspey and Badenoch, and 
the border-line between the counties of Inverness and Elgin, 
or Moray. The train now passes from the Earl of Seafield's 
estates to those of the Duke of Richmond. On the right are the 
cliffs of Craigellachie, which have given to the Clan Grant the 
slogan, " Stand fast, Craigellachie," and on the left is the isolated 
hill of Tor of Alvie, upon which is a cairn to the memory of 
the Highlanders who fell at Waterloo, as well as a monument to 
the last Duke of Gordon. On the other side of the line are the 
charming little loch and the parish church of Alvie. The tra- 
veller next passes through the wooded estate of Kinrara, and 
reaches the Boat of Insh station. From this to Kingussie the 
Grampians limit the view on the left, with Loch Insh intervening. 
Farther on, on the same side, Belleville House (Colonel Brewster 
Macpherson) is seen, occupying the site of Raits Castle, an 
ancient stronghold of the Comyns, fabled to have been built by 
Ossian. 

Near to Raits is an artificial cave of supposed Pictish origin. 
On the opposite side is the village of Lynchatt, near which, on 
rising ground, may be seen a monument to Macpherson, to 
whom is attributable the honour of having rescued from oblivion 
the poems of Ossian. 

We now enter the Kingussie station, to the right of which 
are the principal buildings of the little town, with the ruins of 
a chapel and a site of an old monastery. Beyond the village, 
on the left, to the south of the Spey, are the ruins of Ruthven, a 
residence of the Comyns, Lords of Badenoch. It was here that 
the Highland clans rallied and reassembled two days after their 
disastrous defeat at Culloden, and were subsequently dismissed 
to their respective homes by Prince Charles Edward, there to 



await the tender mercies of Cumberland. Coaches run daily 
from Kingussie to Fort William. 

After passing Newtonmore, the next station, we cross the 
Spey over an eight-arched timber bridge, pass Ettridge Bridge 
on the left, and reach Dalwhinnie station, from which a glimpse 
is had of Loch Ericht, near which Prince Charles Edward 
found shelter. We next arrive at Dalnaspidal, where General 
Cope had an army to oppose the prince's progress southwards. 
The general, however, marching onward, the clans declined 
battle, and, availing themselves of the unguarded pass, pushed 
down southwards through the Lowlands and over the borders 
as far as Derby, to the terror and consternation of the English. 
There can be little doubt that, if the march had been con- 
tinued, London would have fallen into the prince's hands 
without his having to fire a single shot. The opportunity, 
however, was not seized, and "the tide in the affairs" of the 
Stuart dynasty, not being "taken at the flood," the currrent set 
against them. On the right of the line, Loch Garry may be 
seen. The train is now on the watershed of the country, from 
which it quickly descends to Calvine, or Struan station, crossing 
the river Garry by a fine three-arched stone bridge. Beneath 
the centre arch of eighty feet, an older structure spans the river, 
exhibiting a most peculiar appearance. Soon after, the Brtiar 
Water is crossed — a stream wdrich rushes headlong down its 
narrow rocky bed over ledges which form three distinct groups 
of falls, varying from thirty-five to five feet in height. The banks, 
-which were bare, are now clothed with fir, ash, and shrubs, in 
compliance with the Humble Petition of Brtiar Water, written 
by Burns after visiting the falls in their original state. We are 
now skirting 

Blair Athole 

[Hotel : " Athole Arms "], 
bn our left. At the opening of Glen Tilt stands the Castle, with 
many historical associations, but no architectural beauty. An 
amusing story is told of the old place by Sir Walter Scott. 
When besieged by the prince's army in 1746, Sir Andrew 
Agnew was governor and made a resolute defence. Hunger 
was beginning to do its work on the garrison, when a few of the 
officers, unknown to Sir Andrew, tried the effect of the follow- 
ing ruse. Having procured a suit of the stem old commander's 
uniform, they skilfully stuffed it with straw so as to impose on 
the besiegers. This guy they placed in a window in the tower, 
telescope in hand, as if reconnoitring. "The apparition," says 
Sir Walter Scott, "did not escape the hawk's eyes of the High- 
landers, who continued to pour their fire on the turret window, 



560 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

without producing an adequate result. The best deer-stalkers 
of Athoie and Badenoch persevered, nevertheless, and wasted 
their ammunition in vain on this impassable commander. 
This prank is said not to have been without a salutary effect : 
the clansmen, already predisposed to regard the sheriff with 
a superstitious awe, now found their surmises as to his in- 
vulnerability so thoroughly confirmed that henceforth they 
became hopeless of success and eventually retired." Near 
to the castle are the ruins of the old church of Blair, where 
Viscount Dundee was buried. Besides the falls at Bruar Water, 
already mentioned, we have in this neighbourhood a whole series 
of most beautiful cascades in Glen Tilt, formed- by the Fender 
and another tributary. The pedestrian tour from Blair Athoie 
through this glen to Braemar on the Dee (pages 568-9) (a dis- 
tance of thirty miles), is very popular. Here also are the battle- 
field of Killiecrankie, Loch Tummel, and the Falls of Tummel 
and Rannoch, so that the inducements to make a short stay in 
the vicinity are of a most varied character. The Athoie estates, 
too, are beautifully wooded, one duke alone having planted as 
many as twenty-seven millions of larch, besides other trees. 
There are, it is supposed, upwards of 10,000 deer within 100 
square miles of these ducal territories. 

Leaving Blair Athoie station the train crosses the Tilt- by a 
fine viaduct of 100 feet span, and, after a run of three miles, 
reaches 

Killiecrankie, 

contiguous to the famous pass through which (27th July, 1689) 
General Mack ay came, with 4,000 of King William's troops, un- 
molested, until they reached the platform at the mouth of the 
glen, where he was allowed by his chivalrous opponent to form 
his troops. Lord Dundee now drew up his own forces, number- 
ing 1,800 Highlanders and 300 Irish, on the Hill of Lude, and 
poured down in full force, with such irresistible fury that the 
Lowlanders were annihilated at the first onset, the whole con- 
flict not lasting a quarter of an hour. But the victory was dearly 
bought, at the cost of the life of John Grahame of Claverhouse, 
Viscount Dundee ! 

Leaving Killiecrankie station, the train enters a short tunnel, 
four miles farther reaches the Pitlochrie station, passes on the 
right the old inn of Moulinearn, celebrated for its Athoie brose 
(a mixture of honey and whiskey), and arrives at Ballinluig, 
the junction for Aberfeldy. A short way before entering the 
station, a monumental Celtic cross to the Duke of Athoie may 
be seen ; it stands on the former site of an old royal castle. 
Passing Guay and Dalguise we now reach Birnam, the station for 



DUNKELD. 561 



Dunkeld. 

[Hotels : " Birnam/' " Duke of Athole's Arms," and " Royal."] 

Birnam Hill, which rises to the height of 1,580 feet close to 
the station, was once covered with a forest; but, as Mr. Pen- 
nant wittily remarked, it has never recovered the march to 
Dunsinane, and is now comparatively bare. The cathedral, 
at the west end of the town, is the object of most interest in 
Dunkeld, and is a venerable old structure, exhibiting features 
partly Norman and partly of the First Pointed period. The 
nave is in ruins, but the choir is still used as the parish church. 
This cathedral is supposed to have had its origin in a Culdee 
cell ; a regular establishment was founded about 729, and the 
place was created into an episcopal see by David I. in the 
beginning of the twelfth century. The tower, ninety feet in 
height, and some very ancient tombs, together with two larch- 
trees in the church-yard, supposed to be the oldest in the 
kingdom, complete the attractions. Amongst the tombs notice 
those of Bishop Sinclair, who led the Scots against Edward 
IPs. forces, and inflicted a crushing defeat on them at Doni- 
bristle, and the monumental statue of the "Wolf of Badenoch," 
son of Robert II. and Elizabeth Muir. Dunkeld is famed, too, 
as having been the see of Gavin Douglas, the first translator 
of Virgil into Scottish verse. There is a fine cascade in the 
magnificent grounds of Athole House, which until lately was 
most picturesquely seen from " Ossian's Hall," a mirrored 
pavilion erected over the fall, maliciously destroyed in 1869, 
From Dunkeld were commenced, in 1729, the roads under, 
the supervision of General Wade, which now afford such 
facilities to Highland tourists. 

Leaving Dunkeld, the train skirts Birnam Hill and enters a 
short tunnel, emerging whence, the Malakoff Arch is seen on 
the right. This arch was designed and commenced as an en- 
trance to Murthly Castle, which now may be seen on the left. 
Near it is the old castle of Murthly, and a small but very elegant 
Roman Catholic chapel with stained-glass windows. The 
train now leaves the Tay, and, passing the wooded estate of 
Murthly, reaches Murthly station and Stanley Junction, where 
again the Tay's broad stream is seen. Four miles farther the 
train passes Luncarty. Here a great battle was fought in 990 
between the Scots and Danes, in which the latter were de- 
feated. We are now distant but four miles from the " fair 
city of Perth," to reach which we pass on the right the en- 
trance to Glen Almond, where "Bessie Bell and Mary Gray" 
lie buried. Over their grave at Dronach Haugh, near Lyne- 



36 



562 LOXDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

doch Cottage, is the simple inscription — telling their romantic 
friendship : — 

" They lived, they lo'ed, they died. 

They were twa bonnie lasses ; 

They biggit their bower on yon burn brae, 

They theekit it ower wi' rashes ; 

They theekit it ower wi' rashes green, 

They theekit it ower wi' heather ; 

But the pest came from the burrows toun. 

And kill'd them both together." 

On the left, at the opposite side of the Tay, lies Scone Palace, 
two miles and a half from Perth. It is at present the seat of 
the Earl of Mansfield, by whose family it has been rebuilt in 
modern times. It has characteristics of architectural beauty, 
and contains numerous relics of the old structure, especially 
a bed worked by Mary, Queen of Scots. It was from here 
that Edward I. removed the famous coronation stone, now in 
Westminster Abbey. There is no admission to the house or 
grounds. 

Perth 

[Hotels : " Royal George," " Pople's British," and " Queen's"], 
a town eminent for the beauty of its situation, a place of great 
antiquity, and traditionally said to have been a Roman founda- 
tion. That victorious nation pretended to recognise the Tiber 
in the much more magnificent and navigable Tay, and to 
trace in the large level space known by the name of the 
North Inch a near resemblar.ee to the Campus Martius. It 
was upon this same North Inch that the fight described in 
Scott's Fair Maid of Perth took place. The population of 
Perth was 25,580 in 1871. 

One of the most beautiful points of view which Britain, or 
perhaps the world, can afford is the prospect from a spot 
called the Wicks of Baiglie, from which the traveller beholds, 
stretching beneath him, the vale of the Tay, traversed by its 
ample and lordly stream ; the town of Perth, with its two 
large meadows, or inches, its steeples and its towers ; the hills 
of Moncrieff and Kinnoul, finally rising into picturesque rocks, 
partly clothed with woods ; the rich margin of the river, 
studded with elegant mansions ; and the distant view of the 
Grampians. The principal objects of interest now extant are 
the old church of St. John, from which Perth was once known 
as St. Johnstone ; the County Buildings, with a portico of 
twelve fluted columns, facing the river, and containing some 
fine pictures ; the Lunatic Asylum, and the statues of Scott 
and Burns. 



PERTH— EL GEY. 



Excursions should be made to the Moncrieff and Kinnoul 
Hills, the view from which is called by Pennant " the glory of 
Scotland ; " to the Wicks of Baiglie ; to Dupplin Castle and 
the Birks of Invermay, at both of which last-named places aie 
fine old sculptured stones. Abernethy, eight miles and a half 
from Perth by railway, where there is a fine specimen of the 
round towers, built after the same manner as those in Ireland, 
should also be visited. Another interesting excursion by rail 
can be made to Crieff, via Methven. At the latter place was 
fought a great battle, in 1306, when Bruce was defeated. 
Two miles to the north of Methven is Trinity College, for the 
education of the clergy, and in the neighbourhood are several 
pretty country seats. From Crieff a pleasant trip can be taken 
along the Almond Water to the traditionary tomb of Ossian. 



SECTION LXIII. 

INVERNESS, via ELGIN AND ABERDEEN, TO PERTH 
AND STIRLING. 

THE route follows the same line as described in the last sec- 
tion, until we arrive at 

Forres, 

already described on page 557, whence it takes a north-easterly 
direction to Kinloss, Alves, and, at twelve miles' distance, 

Elgin 
[Hotels : "Station," " Star," and " Gordon Arms"], 
a venerable, elegantly built town of 7,339 inhabitants, situ- 
ated on the river Lossie, about five miles from the sea. 
It contains some remarkable old houses and streets, and 
one of the finest ruins in Scotland, namely, the Cathedral. 
This noble pile was founded by Bishop Moray in 1223, but, 
having been burned down by the " Wolf of Badenoch," was 
not rebuilt until the fifteenth century. A graphic description 
of the building and the neighbouring scenery is given in 
Sir Thomas Lauder's Wolf of Badenoch. The style of archi- 
tecture is the First Pointed order, of which it is the best 
specimen in Scotland. Its maximum length is 289 feet, 
and breadth eighty-seven ; the western towers are eighty-four, 



564 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

and the eastern sixty-four feet, in height, and though much 
defaced by " godless hands," it is still a splendid relic of archi- 
tectural taste. The stone coffin of King Duncan may be seen 
near the south gate, for the victim of Macbeth was interred 
here previous to the removal of his remains to " Iona's sacred 
isle ; " and equally deserving of attention are the Apprentices' 
Aisle and the beautiful octagonal chapter-house. About six 
miles southwards from the town stand the ivy-mantled remains 
of Pluscarden Priory, founded by Alexander II. in the thirteenth 
century. This structure was Gothic, but externally nothing 
can be seen save its picturesque garment of foliage; within, 
however, the traces of its ancient beauty can be followed, and 
there are some mural paintings still extant. In the neigh- 
bourhood, and worthy of a visit, are Duffus Castle, an old 
stronghold of the lords of Moray, and the rocks and caves of 
Covesea, where are some curious ancient carvings. 

After Elgin no station of importance is reached until we 
arrive at 

Aberdeen 

[Hotels: " Douglas/' " Queen's," "Imperial," "Northern," "St 
Nicholas," "City," and "Forsyth's Temperance"], 

the third city of Scotland in point of size, having a population 
in 1871 of 88,125. There is an Old Aberdeen and a New 
Aberdeen : the former is situated about a mile to the north of 
the latter, near the mouth of the Don ; and the sc-called new 
town on the Dee, whence its name. Both towns are of great 
antiquity, dating from the year 893, though historic records 
seldom mention the name until the twelfth century : the title 
" New" means nothing more than that the town on the Dee 
has increased in size and beauty, whereas its contemporary 
on the Don has decayed. Near the " auld town " is the 
" Brig o' Don," with its one arch and its black deep salmon 
stream beneath. Byron says that he used to pause before 
crossing it, and yet lean over it with a childish delight, being 
an only son by the mother's side. These commingled feelings 
were caused by an old proverb : — 

" Brig o' Balgounie, black's your -\va' ; 
Wi' a wife's ae son, and a mear's ae foal, 
Doun ye shall fa' ! " 

When Edward I. overran Scotland Aberdeen fell with the 
other strongholds, but the English garrison was shortly 
afterwards expelled by the inhabitants, who rallied with the 
watchword " Bon-accord ! " This cry has ever since been 
the motto on the town arms. The salmon-fishery of the 
Dee is very valuable, and returns a large revenue to the 



ABERDEEN— MONTROSE— FORFAR. 565 

Town Commissioners, upon whom the right was conferred by 
Robert the Bruce. In New Aberdeen the handsome streets, 
the houses of which are almost without exception built of 
granite, and the numerous public buildings, deserve every 
attention. Union Street, Castle Street, and King Street are 
especially worthy of notice. The first contains some excellent 
architecture and a bronze statue of the late Prince Consort, 
and extends about a mile in length, a portion being carried 
over the Denburn Valley by an angle-arched viaduct of granite, 
with a span of 130 feet. Here are the East and West Churches, 
the Trades Hall, and the Town and County Bank, with a 
statue of her present Majesty. Castle Street contains the 
Market Cross, an octagonal Gothic building, embellished with 
medallions and the coats of arms of the Scottish kings, a 
statue of the Duke of Gordon, and the Town House, a notice- 
able structure with a tower 200 feet high, and a three-dialled 
clock. This edifice contains some portraits and an armoury. 
The buildings of Marischal College also stand in the New 
Town. King Street leads to Old Aberdeen, where are St. 
Machar's Cathedral, the University of King's College, and the 
" Brig of Balgounie," mentioned by Byron in Don Juan. 
Byron lived in Broad Street during his youth, at No. 68, 
which house still retains his name. Before departing from 
the Granite City the tourist should visit the docks and 
ship-building yards. The former cover an area of thirty-four 
acres, and have an entrance seventy feet wide : they are still 
in course of improvement. The latter send out sailing-vessels 
that rival in speed and beauty the famous American clippers. 

Leaving Aberdeen, the line borders on the sea-coast as far as 
Forfar, the most important place passed being Stonehaven, a 
considerable fishing port, close to which are the hoary ruins of 
Dunotter Castle. From Dubton, a branch runs to 

Montrose 
[Hotels : " Star/' " Queen's/' and iC Crown "] 
(population 14,548), a somewhat extensive port. Here is one 
of Sir S. Brown's suspension bridges, 432 feet long and lying on 
towers 72 feet high. But the town is chiefly noted from the 
fact that Joseph Hume and the great Marquis of Montrose were 
born in the place ; while another local event of historic import- 
ance was the embarkation here of Douglas ("the good Lord 
James "), with the heart of Bruce for the Holy Land. 

Forfar 

[Hotels : " County Arms/' " Commercial," and " Union "] 

is a town of considerable antiquity, whose population (11,031) is 



566 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

principally engaged in the shoe and weaving trades. It has 
been latterly much improved, and has now many good public 
buildings. In the town house may be seen the bridle with 
which people were harnessed in the "good old times," previous 
to being burnt in the "Witches' Howe." In the neighbour- 
hood are Restenet Priory and Finhaven Castle, at which the 
Earl of Crawford received James II. 

Leaving Forfar, the tourist has the choice of two routes. The 
one (with branches to places of importance in the interior) goes 
via Stanley junction direct to Perth. The other (more circuitous) 
runs along the sea-coast to the same town, and affords the 
traveller an opportunity of visiting Arbroath and Dundee. 

Arbroath 
Hotels : " White Heart," " Royal," and George "] 
has a population of 19,974. The proper name of the town, or 
Aberbrothock, signifies its situation at the mouth of the Bro- 
thock. It was formerly noted for a rich mitred abbey, 
founded in 1178 by William the Lion, who was buried in it. 
All that now remains is a ruined church, 770 feet long, with 
its cloisters and fine east window. The chapter house, the 
great gate, and prison are also in existence. The Bell Rock 
is about ten miles south-east ; it is the Inch-gate rock of 
Southey's well-known lines. The lighthouse was under the 
special care of the abbots, one of whom placed a bell there, so 
that 

" When the rock was hid by the tempest's swell, 

The mariners heard the warning bell ; 

And then they knew the perilous rock, 

And blessed the Abbot of Aberbrothock." 

The present lighthouse was built by Stevenson, its height being 
115 feet. 

Dundee 

[Hotels : "Royal George/' '"'Salutation," "Star," Vi British," " Queen's," 
and " City "] 

is the capital of Forfarshire, and the third largest town in Scot- 
land, its population in 1871 being 118,974. Dundee Law, in 
the immediate neighbourhood, is 5 2 5 feet high ; it was there 
that Montrose sat while his troops sacked the town in 1645. 
During the present century the harbour has been greatly im- 
proved, and about 50,000 tons of shipping now belong to the 
port. Spinning and weaving flax are extensively carried on in 
the town. Queen Victoria visited Dundee in 1844, and a 
triumphal arch near the harbour commemorates the event. 



DUNDEE. 567 

There are twenty places of worship in the town. Three 
churches stand together, on the site of one founded by William 
the Lion (the hero of Scott's Talisman), in pursuance of a vow at 
sea on returning from the Crusades ; he also built a castle here, 
which figured prominently in the wars of independence under 
Wallace and Bruce, the former of whom was educated at the 
priory of the town. Many of the natives of the place have 
attained eminence, and Graham of Claverhouse was created 
Viscount of Dundee by James II. Sir David Baxter presented 
a splendid park to the corporation. The seats of several noble- 
men are in the neighbourhood. 

From Perth (already described on page 562) a run of thirty- 
five miles, past spots we have already noticed in our trip to the 
Trossachs (pages 488, etc. ), brings the tourist to Stirling. 



EXCURSION XXIII. 
ABERDEEN TO BALMORAL AND BLAIR ATHOLE. 

MANY pleasant excursions might be made by the numerous 
branches from the lines the route of which we have just 
sketched. Thus a detour might be made from the main line of 
the Great Northern of Scotland at Grange to Banff, the seat of 
the Earl of Fife, a descendant of the Macduff who fought Mac- 
beth and revenged the death of Duncan, and whose eldest son 
still bears the title of Viscount Macduff. From Banff, another 
branch, via Turriff, rejoins the main line at Inveramsay. 
Another trip might be made from the Dyce junction to the 
ports of Fraserburgh and Peterhead, the latter famous for its 
beautifully coloured granite. But the favourite excursion is that 
from Aberdeen along Deeside to her Majesty's Highland home 
at Balmoral, and thence by a journey on " shanks's ponies," 
to Blair Athole, on the Highland railway. 

Leaving Aberdeen, the train runs along the side of the Dee, 
through splendid scenery, which a royal personage is reported to 
have pronounced ■ ' De-cide-dly among the finest in Scotland." It 
passes Culter, near the site of the Roman Devana, and many 
historic country seats, ancient battle-fields between rival clans, 
and Lumphanan, the scene of Macbeth's death, where a cairn 120 
feet high is pointed out as his grave. Drum House, Crathes 
Castle, and Aboyne Castle, the seat of the Marquis of Huntly, 
are specially worthy of notice. Though an extension of the line 
past Balmoral to Braemar has been often discussed, 



Ballater 

[Hotel: "Monaltrie Arms"] 
is at present its terminus. It is a fashionable watering-place, 
close to the Pannanich Springs. Thence a coach runs to Braemar, 
passing 

Balmoral Castle, 
a full view of which is afforded from the road. Admission can 
only be obtained during her Majesty's absence, and the Queen 
usually resides there in the tourist season. The castle is located 
in a dell formed by a noble range of hills on the south side of the 
Dee, nearly opposite Crathie, the parish church of which her 
Majesty attends when she resides at her Highland retreat. The 
site of the castle is a slightly elevated plateau at the foot of the 
Craigan-Gowan hill, commanding an extensive and picturesque 
view of the Dee and its valley. The palace was built from de- 
signs by Mr. William Smith, of Aberdeen, on the site of an older 
castle, purchased from the Earl of Fife. It is in the Scottish 
baronial style of architecture, and comprises two blocks of build- 
ings, with connecting wings, bartisan turrets, and a projecting 
tower, 80 feet high. The royal farm lies in a valley a little 
to the west of the castle. 

Abergeldie, 
the Highland residence of the Prince of Wales, is romantically 
situated on the banks of the river Dee. The word Abergeldie, 
in the Gaelic, signifies the spot where the burn of Geldie falls 
into the Dee, just as Aberdeen signifies the place where the Dee 
falls into the sea. Approached by the high road from Aberdeen, 
Abergeldie seems, as it were, closed in by the mountains at the 
foot of which it rests, and thus appears to be isolated, though, 
in fact, it stands in the midst of the valley and may be seen from 
the private grounds of Balmoral, almost buried in the deep masses 
of the woodlands which intervene. There is a rough, simple 
grandeur in the building itself — massive, as the original walls 
amply testify — while the large square clock tower, mounted on 
another no less strong, but circular in its form, the deep set 
windows, and the material of which it is composed, give it, as is 
due, an antique and romantic appearance. Built for another age 
and for less peaceful times, it is still in keeping with the craggy 
mountain sides ; but when we ' ' think what is now and what 
hath been," it is neither with disappointment nor ill-will that we 
see cultivation creeping almost in at its doors, while the corn 
and cattle rest secure from those predatory excursions, at one 
time not uncommon, to gratify the pleasure or revenge, as the 
case might be, of some powerful chief with no very distinct idea 
of meum and tuum as regarded his neighbours' property or his 



CASTLE TON OF BRAEMAR. 569 

own. Abergeldie was formerly the property of the Duchess of 
Kent, who bought it in order to be near her illustrious daughter. 
It has always been celebrated for its birch trees, whose fame 
furnished the theme of the well-known song, "The birks of 
Abergeldie. " 

Castleton of Braemar 

[Hotels : " Invercauld Arms " and " Fife Arms "] 
is an old Highland village, from whence excursions may be 
made in the neighbourhood. It is situated at the southern 
extremity of Aberdeenshire, in the heart of those Grampian Hills 
where the supposed father of young Norval fed his flocks. The 
castle of Braemar, which stands in the midst of the glen, is a 
picturesque object. It is said to have been built by Malcolm 
Canmore for a hunting-seat, and is the scene of the " Stag Hunt " 
in Waverley, where the standard of rebellion was raised in 1715. 

Invercauld, where the Braemar gathering takes place annually, 
is a noble mansion, the seat of the chief of the Farquharson clan. 
It is situated on a rising ground, which forms the southern terrace 
of Craig Heik, a finely-wooded mountain that rises about 2,000 
feet above the level of the sea. 

Byron frequently resided at the farmhouse of Ballatruh, and 
has celebrated the neighbouring scenery in his noble tribute to the 
beauties of Loch-na-gar, the ascent of which (about twelve miles) 
opens to the traveller the best general view of the surrounding 
scenery. From Braemar the route will lie through Glen Tilt to 
Blair Athole (a distance of about thirty miles), as already noticed 
on page 560. 



SECTION LXIV. 

STIRLING TO EDINBURGH AND CARLISLE, via MEL- 
ROSE AND ABBOTSFORD. 

STIRLING is connected with Edinburgh by a line running 
bid Greenhill junction. The two towns are thirty-six miles 
apart, and the line runs along the south coast of the Firth of 
Forth. 

Leaving Edinburgh by the North British station, the train dashes 
through a tunnel under Calton Hill, on emerging from which 
some picturesque views of the environs of the northern capital 
are obtained ; these include the Abbey and Palace of Holyrood, 
the steep-cut cliffs, called Salisbury Crags, with St. Anthony's 



570 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

Chapel, a small ruin perched on the verge of the next precipice, 
Arthur's Seat, and Dunsappie Hill, all comprised in the Queen's 
Park. Portobello, Millerhill, and Eskbank are passed ; and we 
reach 

Dalhousie. 

Beneath the embankment of the station nestles the village of 
Newbattle, and Newbattle Abbey, the residence of the Marquis 
of Lothian, is seen standing on its sheltered lawn by the bank of 
the Esk. The line crosses the valley on a viaduct at Dalhousie, 
so that a most enchanting view is afforded of the Esk. The 
houses of Harden Green and Dalhousie Mains are passed, and 
the Modern Gothic church of Cockpen. Overhanging the Esk, 
on the right, is the massive circular tower of Dalhousie Castle, 
the seat of the Marquis of Dalhousie. Near the next station, 

Gorebridge, 

may be seen the ruins of Newbyres Castle, with Borthwick Castle 
on the right, and onwards on the left the massive remains of 
Crichton Castle. In the manse of Borthwick was born Dr. 
Robertson, the historian of Scotland. Continuing along the 
valley of the Gore, we pass Fushiebridge and enter the valley of 
Gala Water, celebrated by Burns in the song, 

" Braw, braw lads of Gala Water." 

We pass Tyne Head,Heriot, Fountainhall, Stow, and Bowland, 
and reach 

Galashiels 

[Hotels : " Commercial," " Abbotsford," " Railway "], 
which means literally "the Shepherds' Huts on the Gala." It is 
a manufacturing town of about 9,678 inhabitants. The scenery 
derives its beauty from the wood abounding on the banks and 
slopes of the vicinity. The Tweed is beautifully disclosed 
from point to point of its progress till lost among the project- 
ing hills above Drygrange, whilst the villas and residences 
studding the river banks greatly enhance the charm of the 
view. A short branch line runs from Galashiels to 

Selkirk 

(population 4.640), which in olden times gloried in her shoe- 
making citizens. Many of the old ballads celebrate her 
sturdy followers in St. Crispin's art, who appear to have: been 
as brave in the field as they were unequalled in their trade. 

A chain of forts, connected by a deep fosse and double ram- 
part, supposed to be the work of the ancient Britons, is met 
with a little west of Galashiels, from which point it extends to 
the Cumberland Mountains. 




MELROSE AEDEY, 



MELROSE— MELROSE ABBE \ \ 



Leaving Galashiels, the line curves along the beautiful serpen- 
tine head of the Gala. It is then carried on the summit of ay. 
embankment, from whence a most charming view of the town, 
the Tweed, and its rich valley may be obtained, towards the 
pretty village of Darnick, and over the Tweed by a viaduct of 
five fine arches. The plain is here environed on all sides by 
woods and water : to the south, embosomed in the woods 
planted by Sir W. Scott, lies Abbotsford. We now reach 

Melrose. 

[Hotels : "George," " King's Arms," "Abbey," and "Commercial."] 
The station is in admirable harmony with the romantic 
region which surrounds it ; and though the town is not large, 
it presents a pretty and notunimposing aspect. It is situated 
at the base of three remarkable conical peaks, known as the 
Eildon Hills, and long renowned in song and story from the 
days of Thomas of Ercildoune. The cross, twenty feet high, 
in the centre of the market-place (whence the streets diverge 
in the form of a Saint Andrew's cross) is of great antiquity : 
it bears the usual figure of the unicorn and arms of Scotland. 
The summit level of the eastern peak of the Eildons (the 
Trlmontium of Tacitus), on which are the remains of a vast 
encampment a mile and a half in circumference, affords an 
extensive prospect of the windings of the Tweed, and the 
numerous scenes of Border battle. 

The beautiful suburb of Gattonside, a region of gardens and 
orchards, is connected with Melrose by an iron bridge. A 
walk of five minutes brings us from the station to 

Melrose Abbey, 

which, independently of all the poetry and romance with 
which it has become associated, is one of the finest relics of 
the palmy days of Gothic architecture. Founded in 1136 
by David I., and dedicated to the Virgin, it was colonized by 
Cistercian monks. The ground plan of the abbey church is in 
the shape of a Latin cross, turned towards the east. The 
western side of the central square tower, eighty-four feet in 
height, by which the church.was surmounted, remains based on 
a lofty, pointed arch, terminating at its summit in a tall balus- 
trade of stone, elegantly formed, with pierced quatre-foiled rails 
and roses underneath them in bas-relief. The English in 1321 
injured and plundered the abbey ; but four years afterwards it 
was restored at the cost of King Robert the Bruce. Richard 
II. burned it in 1384; Sir Ralph Evers and Sir Bryan Latoun 
plundered it in 1545, on which occasion a bloody conflict 
ensued, when the " raiders " were overtaken at Lilliard's Edge ; 



572 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

and it was pillaged later in the same year by another party of 
English. Shortly afterwards the Scottish retainers of the 
Lords of Congregation, in their zeal for reformation, initiated 
a course of demolition which was effectually completed by the 
bombardment of Cromwell from Gattonside. A popular satire, 
perpetuated by Sir Walter Scott, declares that 

" The monks of Melrose made fat kail 
On Fridays when they fasted ; 
And neither wanted beef nor ale. 
So long as their neighbours' lasted.'' 

This was probably one cause of the vengeance of the reformers. 
That there was good ground for the satire is shown by the 
fact that in 1533 the general chapter of the order found it 
necessary to send a commissioner to visit and reform the 
abbey, as the monks there, in common with their brethren at 
Newbattle and Balmorino, had grievously transgressed their 
rule. 

"The buildings within the convent." says the Rev. Adam 
Milne, in his account of the parish of Melrose (1730), " for the 
residence and service of the abbots and monks, with garden 
and other conveniences, were once enclosed with a high wall, 
about a mile in circuit." The other abbey buildings being razed, 
the church alone, whose ruins extend in length, from east to 
west, 258 feet, by 137 feet in breadth, remains to indicate 
by-gone splendour. Entering the principal doorway remaining 
on the south — the way to which is through the passage in the 
church — it is found to be composed of recessed mouldings of 
great delicacy, beauty, and variety, filleted with foliage, and 
supported on light, finely-proportioned pilasters. The foliage, 
emanating from two finely-sculptured busts, terminates in a 
grotesque Gothic head, immediately surmounting a gracefully- 
canopied niche, in which the figure of the Saviour formerly 
stood. Rich-tabernacled projections protrude on either side. 
Tabernacled spires also terminate the cornices supported on 
the angular buttresses at this end of the building. The but- 
tresses themselves are niched for the reception of images, two 
niches in each : the brackets are supported by monks. Two 
of these are perfect, with long flowing beards, one holding in his 
extended hand a fillet, inscribed, "Rassics est quia ipse voluit;" 
and the other, " Cum venit Jesus cessabit umbra." Eight 
niches (in some of which mutilated figures yet remain), de- 
creasing in size according to the altitudes at which they are 
placed and ornamented with floral garlands, also surmount 
the entrance arch, and descend gradually on either side of it. 
The arms of Scotland occupy a central compartment over the 
arch, surmounted by a full-length figure of St. John the Bap- 



ABBOTSFORD. 573 

tist, enveloped in clouds, with heavenward gaze, and bearing a 
fillet on his breast with the words, " Ecce Filius Dei." Over this 
entrance-door, a window of great magnificence, twenty-four 
feet by sixteen, whose tracery is yet entire, rises gracefully in 
interlacing curves into a wheel of seven compartments, and 
terminates in a pointed arch, with four dividing bars. The 
great east window, generally known as " the apprentice's win- 
dow " (from a legend that it was the work of an apprentice 
during the absence of his master, who, on his return, was so 
envious of his success that he murdered him), has been thus 
described no less poetically than just : — 

" Thou would'st have thought some fairy's hand, 
'Twixt poplars straight the osier wand, 
In many a freakish knot had twined ; 
Then framed a spell when the work was done, 
And changed the willow wreaths to stone." 

For a detailed description of the whole structure and its 
historical associations we must refer the tourist to Shaw's 
Shilling "Guide to Abbotsford, Melrose, and the Scottish 
Border," as the exigencies of space compel us to hasten on to 

Abbotsford, 

the abode of the mighty novelist and poet, Sir Walter Scott, 
and now the property of James R. Hope Scott, Esq., Q.C., 
which is about three miles distant from Melrose, and is finely 
situated on the Tweed, above the spot where the Gala empties 
its waters into that river. It overlooks the fine sweep of the 
river and the beautiful meadow on the opposite bank, which 
almost seems as if contrived to form part of the estate. Nothing 
is more apt to give a full conception of the extent to which 
the merit of creating Abbotsford belonged to the poet than the 
fact that its site was formerly occupied by a small farmstead- 
ing, rejoicing in the designation of Clarty-hole. Thus the 
heart of the romancer clung, as he said, to the place he had 
created, for there was not a tree that did not owe its being to 
him. He made the place before the evil days of his destiny 
set in, and there the finest of his novels were written. 

The Abbotsford property extends chiefly southward ; it in- 
cludes within its bounds Cauldshield's Loch, whence emanates 
a rivulet running through the Rhymer's Glen, the traditionary 
rendezvous of True Thomas with his elfin love, the Fairy 
Queen. For miles along the banks of the Tweed gigantic 
forest trees fling their shadows over its white and silvery 
surface and bright bordering sward ; and the woods are pene- 
trated in all directions by winding walks planned by Sir Walter 
himself, and once pruned and tended by his own hand. The 



574 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

house is approached by a lofty gateway, leading to an open 
space of about half an acre in extent. At the gateway the visitor 
will observe the jougs, implements of torture or restraint, 
formerly employed by the Douglases (with whom Scott claimed 
to be connected) at Thrieve Castle, their ancient seat in Gallo- 
way. Opposite the gateway, in a stone screen with open 
Gothic arches, a handsome iron fretwork affords a glimpse of 
the garden. The house front, too, is visible, extending 160 
feet in length. Sculptured stones from all parts of the country 
are inserted in the building. Among these may be noticed one 
from the old Tolbooth of Edinburgh, half-way up the wall, with 
a Scriptural device ; and a stone on the east side of the mansion 
from the burgh of Selkirk, inscribed, 

" Up with ye sutors of Selkirk." 

In fact, the entire composition of the edifice is made up of 
quaint and curious fragments of the antique, with modern 
imitations, woven into an indescribably picturesque assemblage 
of masonry. The fantastic groups of chimneys, gables, pro- 
jecting windows, turrets, and balconies are combined in a 
manner which it would be impossible to reduce to order, 
method, or consecutiveness ; but the general effect is at once 
pleasing and surprising. Almost every celebrated antiquarian 
building throughout Scotland has contributed something to 
Abbotsford. Even the palaces of Holyrood, Dunfermline, and 
Linlithgow, and the churches of Melrose and Roslin, have 
furnished their share. The projecting porch by which the 
house is entered is copied from the palace at Linlithgow, and 
the doorway is surmounted by a magnificent pair of antlers. 
The hall, forty feet in length, is filled with curiosities, and its 
walls are tastefully decorated with old armour and panels filled 
with the armorial bearings of the house of Scott and its col- 
lateral branches. Inside the hall is an arched room, with 
stained-glass windows, containing relics, principally arms, of 
Rob Roy, Montrose, Claverhouse, Napoleon, Hofer, James VI., 
etc. The drawing room is fitted up with antique ebony furni- 
ture given by George IV. ; and the library, the largest room in 
the house, contains 20,000 volumes, some chairs, the gift of the 
Pope, a writing-desk presented by George III., and a silver urn 
presented by Byron. The little study in which Scott used to 
write adjoins the library. It contains a few pictures, cabinets, 
old claymores, and the clothes worn by Sir Walter just previous 
to his death. 

From Melrose an excursion may be made up the Leader 
Water to Earlston, four miles distant. 



EARLSTON, ETC.—DRYBURGH ABBEY. 575 

Earlston, 

anciently Ercildoun, the residence of Thomas the Rhymer, is 
situated at the base of the Black Hill, about two miles from Dry- 
grange Bridge, where the old abbots of Melrose had their chief 
granary. A small part of the Rhymer's dwelling of Learmont 
Tower is still remaining, and on a stone in the front wall of 
Earlston Church is inscribed, " Auld Rhymer's race lies in this 
place." The line continues along the course of the Tweed, 
passing close to the south of the secluded village of 

Newstead, 
a place which seems to have arisen under the shadow of Red- 
stead Abbey, a large and splendid religious house, like Melrose, 
the foundations of which have not yet totally disappeared. 
The number and variety of Roman coins and spears (some of 
which are preserved at Abbotsford) found here seem to indi- 
cate that the Romans had been prior occupants of the spot. 
We next reach 

St. BoswelFs, 

on the way to which a fine prospect is afforded of the Eildon 
Hills on the one hand, and of the Black Hill, with Earlston, 
on the other, while the foreground of the picture is made up of 
the vale of Leader and Ravenswood. The village of old Mel- 
rose may, too, be seen in the distance, occupying a site on a 
flat peninsula formed by a sudden bend of the Tweed. 

St. Bos well's is a convenient railway centre for visiting the 
famous abbeys of Dryburgh. and Jedburgh. The former may 
be reached by a walk of two miles along the tortuous Tweed, 

Dryburgh. Abbey 
is situated on a richly wooded peninsula, encircled by a bold 
sweep of the Tweed. Here, among fruit trees and flowering 
shrubs, itself completely covered with the foliage of creeping 
plants, the picturesque old structure is seen in the vicinity of 
the Earl of Buchan's mansion. The ruins are those of a Saxon 
monastery founded in 1 150, but the site is believed to have been 
previously a place of Druidical worship. The western gable of 
the nave, the ends of the transept, with part of the choir and 
domestic buildings of the abbey, are all that remain. A semi- 
circular arch of four single shafts distinguishes the western 
door, and the southern part of the transept contains a large 
window divided by four mullions. But the most beautiful as 
well as the most interesting part of the ruin is St. Mary's 
aisle, with its splendidly arched roof springing from clustered 
columns. Here are the burial-places of the Halyburtons, 
Erskines, and Haigs, and the grave of Scott. 



576 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

On a brow of the hill behind the abbey is a colossal statue 
of Sir Wm. Wallace ; and a bust of Thomson, the poet, sur- 
mounts a neat model of the Temple of the Muses. 

From St. Bos well's the route to Jedburgh is via Maxton, 
where, at Mutown House, Sir Walter Scott wrote Marmion and 
several other of his works ; Rutherford, to Roxburgh, where the 
traveller takes the branch line train to Jedburgh, passing first 
Old Ormiston, and next arrives at Nisbet, to the left of which are 
the remains of the celebrated fortress of Cessford, noted 
in the early Scottish wars ; while in the vicinity of More- 
battle, a neighbouring village, are the ruins of Luton Tower, 
a gift from William the Lion to the Somervilles. A mile 
and a half beyond Nisbet we reach Jedfoot Bridge, near 
which, amongst other interesting remains, are traces of the 
Roman Watling Street, paved with whinstone, and in a 
state of tolerable preservation. After another drive of a mile 
and a half we reach 

Jedburgh 

[Hotels : " Spread Eagle," " Royal Exchange/' and " Black Bull "] 
(population 3,322). This picturesquely situated town, with 
its grand monastic ruins crowning a ridge overlooking the 
streets, produces a pleasing effect from whatever side it is ap- 
proached. As the chief town of the Middle Marches, it was 
of course the great scene of the border frays, and its royal 
castle was alternately held by the English and the Scots. 
The sturdy burghers of Jedburgh acquired great fame for 
their use of the " Jethart staff" in these encounters, and their 
war cry, " Jethart's here ! " struck terror over many a field. 

The only part of the abbey now standing is the church. 
The eastern end of the choir is gone, and so are the cloisters, 
but the walls of the nave, central tower, and choir remain, 
though exhibiting many traces of the cannon's work in 1544. 
What has been spared is sufficient to indicate the ancient 
magnificence of the abbey. The tracery of the window in the 
north transept — the two splendid Norman doors, and the 
combination of three or four different styles of architecture in 
the choir and nave, would alone deserve a visit, apart from 
the attractions offered by the glorious view from the lofty 
square tower. This panorama comprehends the Valley of the 
Jed, whose banks are frequently overhung by ruins of towers, 
castles, and abbeys, andthehillsdividingEnglandfrom Scotland. 

Leaving St. Boswell's, we pass New Belses station, and reach 
Ilassendean, or Hazeldean, famous in Border song as the resi- 
dence of Jock-o'-Hazeldean. From thence the line approaches 
the thriving manufacturing town of 



HAWICK— NEW CASTLETON. 577 



Hawick 

Hotels : " Tower," " Crown," "White Hart," and " Commercial "], 
situated at the confluence of the Teviot and Slitrig (population 
II '35°)- Branksome Tower, the scene of the Lay of the Last 
Minstrel, lies within two miles and a half, an early residence of 
the Barons of Buccleuch. General Simpson, a hero of the 
Crimean War, was a native of Hawick. The tourist next arrives 
at Stobbs, near which is Stobbs Castle, the seat of Sir W. F. 
Elliot and -the birthplace of General Lord Heathfield. 

The line next passes Shankend and Riccarton junction, from 
whence a run of three miles and a half brings us to Steele Road, 
near which is Hermitage Castle, said to be haunted. It stands on 
the banks of Hermitage Water, and was the seat of the Lords 
Soulis, and afterwards of the Douglasses, Lords of Liddesdale. 
William de Soulis, a reputed sorcerer, is said to have been boiled 
to death in obedience to the careless words of Robert Bruce, at 
the Nine-Stane Rig, a Druidical circle near Hermitage water, 
five stones of which are still visible ; two are pointed out as those 
on' which the cauldron rested. The castle is still very entire. 
Leaving Steele Road, the train crosses the Cheviot Hills to 

New Castleton, 

a village of 886 inhabitants. Just after leaving the station the 
train passes the ruins of Mangerton Tower, an old stronghold of 
the Armstrongs. A cross on the opposite side of the Liddel 
commemorates one of the Armstrongs of Mangerton who had 
been murdered at Hermitage. At Kershope Foot^ the line 
crosses from Scotland into England, and running along the side 
of the romantic Liddel, at the base of the Cheviot Hills, we pass 
Redding Junction and Scotch Dyke, and next come to Longton, 
on the east bank of the noble river Esk (whence there is a short 
branch to Gretna Green). Next come West Linton and Harker 
stations, and reaching the central station at Carlisle, we terminate 
our circular tour through the northern kingdom of Great Britain. 



37 



TO THE CONTINENT. 

SECTION LXV. 

CHOICE OF EOTJTES. 

WE have thus conducted the tourist, from point to point, 
through the northern and most striking portions of the 
British Isles. No place possessing general interest, upon the 
line of the London and North- Western Railway, or which can 
be approached upon its connections (and there are few which 
cannot), has been passed without mention. At the same time we 
have been enabled to give a complete account of the economy of 
this line ; and yet have abstained from unnecessary digression, so 
as to suit the requirements of travellers whose time may be 
limited. We will now presume that our friend will proceed to the 
Continent, which may be easily reached from any point we have 
noticed in the preceding pages. There is an abundant choice of 
steamers between most parts of Great Britain and the rest of 
Europe, good sea boats running between Newcastle and Ham- 
burg ; Hull and Hamburg ; Harwich and Rotterdam ; Harwich 
and Antwerp ; Southampton and St. Malo {via the Channel 
Islands, which, should time pennit, would amply repay the 
trouble of a visit to their charming shores) ; Southampton and 
Cherbourg ; Southampton and Havre ; Newhaven and Dieppe ; 
London and Hamburg ; London and Antwerp ; London and 
Ostend ; London and Calais ; and Folkestone and Boulogne. 
It is, however, customary for the tourist to travel to the Con- 
tinent, via London ; and while in the metropolis he cannot do 
better than call at the offices of Messrs. Gaze and Son, 142, 
Strand* (or of their agents, Messrs. Norton and Shaw, 7 

Messrs. Gaze have also a branch office at 4, Parker Street, Liverpool, 
where the tourist may secure his ticket immediately on landing in England. 



LOXDOX TO BOULOGNE AXD CALAIS. 579 

Garrick Street, and West Entrance Lodge, Euston Square), 
where he can obtain tickets and every necessary information for 
continental travelling. There are five routes, with each of 
which the London and North- Western Railway Company have 
through booking arrangements. These routes are : — 

1. By the South-Eastern Railway, via Folkestone and Boulogne, 
or by Dover and Calais, a route which will enable the tourist to 
visit Tunbridge Wells and Hastings. 

2. By the London, Chatham, and Dover line, via Chatham, 
Canterbury, Dover, and Calais, 

3. By the London, Brighton, and South Coast Line, via 
Brighton, Newhaven, and Dieppe ; and by Littlehampton and 
Honfleur. In addition to the above-named places, Eastbourne, 
Chichester, and Portsmouth may be reached by this line. 

4. By the London and South- Western Railway, viti Southamp- 
ton and Havre. Among the chief places of interest served by 
the South- Western are Winchester, Salisbury, Portsmouth, 
Exeter, Plymouth, Portland, etc. 

5. By the Great Eastern line, via Colchester and Harwich, 
and Antwerp and Rotterdam. 

We will briefly describe each route. 



SECTION LXVI. 

LONDON, via FOLKESTONE, TO BOULOGNE ; or via DOVEK, 
TO CALAIS. 

LET us begin with the route most commonly used, as being 
the most direct and having the shortest sea passage — that 
via Dover and Calais — a route to which additional interest has 
been lately attached by the fact of Captain Webb having gal- 
lantly swam across the Channel between the two points. The 
head-quarters of the South-Eastern Railway, at London Bridge, 
are joined by the recently-constructed continuation of the line 
with Cannon Street, Waterloo, and Charing Cross. This short 
railway crosses the Thames by two magnificent bridges, affording 
facilities for local traffic between the portions of the metropolis 
through which it runs which are largely utilized, and giving the 
tourist about to proceed to the Continent a choice of stations 
from which to take his departure. The company, too, possesses 
a number of suburban lines which have proved of great advantage 
to business men. Passing London Bridge station, the train 



5 So LONDON AXD NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

speeds along by New Cross and Lewisham, affording views, first 
of a forest of chimney-pots, and then of the Surrey Hills and 
Penge Hill, with the Crystal Palace. Eleven miles from London 
the train passes 

Chislehurst, 

a quarter of a mile from which station is Camden Place, the 
residence of the Empress Eugenie and of the Prince Imperial, 
and the scene of the death of Napoleon III. 

Passing several unimportant stations, we arrive at Tunbridge, 
situated nearly midway on the line from Red Hill to Ashford, 
one of the straightest pieces of railway in the kingdom. From 
Tunbridge Junction a loop line runs, via, Tunbridge Wells, Battle, 
St. Leonards, Hastings, &c, rejoining the main line at Ashford. 

Tunbridge Wells 

[Hotels : " Calverley," " Kentish Royal/' and " Royal Sussex "] 
is a fashionable inland watering-place, with a resident population 
of 19,410. It owes its prosperity to a visit of Dudley Lord North, 
a young nobleman attached to the court of James I. The place 
was a favourite resort of the queen of Charles II., Queen Anne, 
and the late Dowager Queen of France. It contains some good 
shops and a market-place, in addition to the spa, the public baths, 
the parade, and the usual proportion of places of worship, hotels, 
theatres, etc. Running past some half-dozen small stations, the 
tourist reaches 

Battle 
[Hotels: "George" and "Star"] 
(population, 3,495), the scene of the celebrated battle which 
placed William the Norman on the throne of England. After 
the struggle, William erected, on the spot where Harold fell, the 
abbey of Battle, in which prayers were to be perpetually offered 
up for the souls of those who had fallen. The remains of this 
once magnificent structure, still extant, are quite sufficient to 
attest its former grandeur. The old Norman church, -with its 
embattled tower, fine peal of bells, and ancient monuments and 
brasses, should also be seen. 

Passing the junction with the London, Brighton, and South 
Coast Railway, and running through the "Bo-Peep " tunnel, the 
train next draws up at 

St. Leonard's-on-Sea 

[Hotels : " Royal Victoria," " Royal Saxon/' and " Bo- Peep"], 
a town, sixty-two miles from London, which has been built and 
incorporated within the la^t forty-five years and has a population 



of 2,737. It enjoys the advantages of a delightful situation and 
most equable climate, in addition to all the late improvements in 
domestic architecture. It was to the Marine Hotel here that the 
Empress Eugenie came, after a brief sojourn in Ryde, on her 
flight from Paris. Close by stands Pelham Cottage, where 
Louis Napoleon resided before his eventful landing at Boulogne. 
One mile further on, we reach 

Hastings 

[Hotels: "Queen's,' "Marine," "Albion," "Swan," "Castle," and 
"Royal Oak "J, 

which has a population of 26, 554. There is not a more interest- 
ing spot in England than Hastings. Nearly a thousand years 
ago money, specimens of which are still to be seen, was coined 
here ; and how long previously the site may have been occupied 
by the Saxons, we need not attempt to settle. There was a 
castle here before William the Conqueror came to fight Harold ; 
but William enlarged it, and part of his work (or that of the 
Earl Robert, who received the castle from him) is still standing. 
The area of the castle is now laid out as a flower-garden ; it 
is in the form of a triangle with rounded corners. The base 
near the sea was built on the edge of the cliff, which rises per- 
pendicularly to the height of 250 feet. The view commanded 
is only excelled by that from the neighbouring Fairlight Downs. 
The entire vicinity teems with the most bewitching umbrageous 
nooks, extensive views, and fashionable sea-side promenades. 
Of these last the Esplanade, reaching nearly the entire way 
from the Marine Parade to the Marina at St. Leonard's, a dis- 
tance of about two and a half miles, is unequalled in the king- 
dom. 

The line now takes a northerly course, the next stations being 
Winchelsea, Rye, Appledore, Ham Street, and Ashford (popu- 
lation, 8,458), the junction for Hastings, Folkestone and Dover, 
and Ramsgate, vid Canterbury (see pages 583-4). Ashford has 
sprung into commercial importance since it has become the 
great depot of the South-Eastern Railway Company. 

Leaving Ashford, our course lies in an easterly direction. At 
Westenhanger, a short branch runs to Hythe (noteworthy as 
being the head-quarters of the school of musketry) and Sand- 
gate, a delightful place of resort for those in search of health or 
pleasure. Shorncliffe, the next station past Westenhanger, is 
the site of a permanent camp of instruction for artillery, cavalry, 
and infantry, with accommodation for from three to five thousand 
men. Running over a viaduct, spanning the Ford Valley and 
758 feet long, having nineteen arches, some of them a hundred 
feet high, we at length reach 



582 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 



Folkestone 

[Hotels : " Pavilion " and " Clarendon "] 
(population, 13,698), where the tourist will find good accommo- 
dation. The town (of which Harvey, the discoverer of the circu- 
lation of the blood, was a native) is ill-built ; it is more retired 
than Dover, Ramsgate, or Margate. It is, however, rapidly 
becoming a fashionable watering-place. Folkestone Harbour is 
connected with the town by a short branch, and from thence 
steamers 1*1111 to Boulogne in about two hours. 

The line is continued to Dover (described in the following sec- 
tion), passing under three tunnels — the Martello tunnel, 636 yards 
long; Abbott's Cliff tunnel, the largest on the line, 1,940 yards 
long; and Shakespeare's Cliff tunnel, 1,393 yards long. This 
latter consists of two tubes, thirty feet high, and ventilated by 
means of seven shafts sunk from the surface of the hill, rendered 
famous by the pen of the immortal Shakespeare. 



SECTION LXVII. 

LONDON, via DOVER, TO CALAIS. 

TOURISTS to the Continent, via Dover and Calais, have an 
alternative route before them — that by the London. Chat- 
ham, and Dover Railway. The London termini of this line are 
at Holborn Viaduct and Victoria, and the company have also 
large stations at Ludgate Hill and Blackfriars, as well as quite 
an extensive system of metropolitan railways. 

Leaving either of the above-named stations, the tourist, after 
passing the junction of Swanley (for Sevenoaks and Maid- 
stone), in due time arrives at 

Rochester 

[Hotels : " Bull Inn and Victoria," " Crown/' " Silver Oar," and " King's 
Head "] 

(population, 18,352). The view from the bridge of its fine old 
Norman castle, with the river laving the base of the keep, is 
very charming. It occupies the site of a Roman station, and 
the spot has probably been fortified ever since ; but the main 
portion of the present structure was raised by Odo, Bishop of 
Bayeux, the natural brother of William the Conqueror. The 
keep or " Gundulph's Tower," so called because built by the 



CHA THAM—CANTERBUR V. 583 

bishop of that name, is the most striking object from every point 
of view. It is about 75 feet square and 105 feet in height, with 
massive walls. The Cathedral was among the first erected by 
the Saxons on their conversion to Christianity, and Rochester is 
the oldest bishopric in England. The original edifice suffered 
much in the disturbed times of the Saxon era, but was recon- 
structed with great magnificence by Bishop Gundulph, in 1080. 
The Town Hall, the Free School, St. Katherine's Hospital, 
and Watts's Almshouses are the other public buildings in 
Rochester worthy of note. The next station is 

Chatham 

[Hotels: "Mitre, "Sun," "Chert Arms," "Ship," "Gibraltar," "Queen's 
Head," and " Navy and Army"], 

a military depot, forming one town with Rochester. It was a 
mere hamlet until the establishment of the great naval dockyard. 
It is now, however, a parliamentary borough of 45,792 inhabi- 
tants. The old church of St. Mary contains the tomb of Stephen 
Borough, the discoverer of the passage to Archangel. The 
arsenal, dockyard, and barracks should certainly be visited. 
There is free admission at ten in the morning and two in the 
afternoon. The dockyard, originally of very limited dimensions, 
was founded in the reign of Elizabeth, now extends upwards 
of two miles and a half along the Med way. The best time for 
visiting these important works and Sheerness fort and dockyard, 
on Sheppey Island, at the mouth of the Medway, is during the 
" siege operations," carried on during a considerable portion of 
the summer. 

Resuming the journey, the train passes one or two unimportant 
places and reaches Sittingbourne (population 6, 148), the junc- 
tion for Sheerness, another naval station with 13,956 inhabitants, 
whose dockyard covers about sixty acres, where the ships of the 
royal navy are laid up in ordinary. Sittingbourne and Faversham 
are important centres of the hop-growing district. Hop gardens 
are here to be seen in all directions, and the various operations 
connected with the culture of the vine, whose fruit forms a prin- 
cipal ingredient in the manufacture of Old England's " nut- 
brown ale," may be watched with interest from the carriage 
window. Passing Faversham and Selling, the train next reaches 

Canterbury 

[Hotfxs : " Rose/' " Fountain," " Fleur-de-Lis "] 
(population, 20,962), which town is the seat of the primacy of 
England. During its occupation by the Romans it was called 
Duroverniim. The Saxons named it Cant-waru-byrig, or "the 
city of the men of Kent." This was subsequently contracted 



584 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

into C ant u aria, from whence its present name. The city con- 
tains many buildings of importance, the chief of which is 

The Cathedral built in the form of a double cross, having two 
transepts, with two steeples at the west end, the outer walls of which 
are richly embellished with statues of sovereigns and archbishops 
from the time of Queen Bertha to that of Queen Victoria. The 
edifice contains several tombs of kings and princes, martyrs and 
bishops, and was formerly noted for the shrine of Thomas a Becket, 
situated on the end of the choir, in the ascent to the chapel of 
the Blessed Trinity, formerly called by a Becket's name. The 
pavement, it will be seen, is worn away by the knees of the 
countless myriads who, in ages gone by, sought to gain the 
martyr's intercession for the forgiveness of their transgressions. 
The tomb of Edward, the Black Prince, son of Edward III., 
and called by Shakespeare ' ' that young Mars of men, " is in 
close proximity to that of a Becket. The archbishop's throne 
and the carving and ancient glass in the choir are worthy of 
notice. 

St. Augustine's Monastery was commenced in the year 521, 
and was originally dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul. It was 
considerably enlarged by St. Dunstan, who re-dedicated the 
building to its founder. It gradually increased in wealth until 
the time of Henry VIII., who seized it and converted it into a 
palace for his own use. Its remains were sold by auction in 1844, 
and were purchased by Mr. Henry Beresford Hope, who restored 
the great gateway, and built within its walls a college for the 
education of missionaries. 

St. Martin's Church stands on the rising ground near the 
monastery. It is venerable from its antiquity, and from the fact 
that it was the first place of worship used by the British after 
their conversion to Christianity. 

No station of importance is met with between Canterbury and 

Dover 

[Hotels : u Lord Warden," <s Ship," "Imperial," and " Dover Castle "] 
(population, 28,506), chiefly remarkable for its ancient castle, 
and as being the principal port of landing from, and embarka- 
tion for, the French coast. The English Channel is here twenty- 
one miles broad, and the passage is made in an hour and twenty 
minutes. Besides the Castle and Shakspeare's Cliff, as it is called, 
from the celebrated speech of Edgar, in King Lear y notice the 
Town Hall, formerly the Maison Dieu. It was built in the reign 
of John, for the harbouring of pilgrims on their way to and from 
the Holy Land. 

The Castle stands on the cliff protecting the south-east side 
of the valley of the Dour, in which the old town has been built. 



This curious old pile occupies an area of about thirty-two acres, 
and has incorporated in its old walls the workmanship of the 
successive nations that overran and occupied the country — 
Roman, Saxon, and Norman — as well as architecture of a more 
modern date. The principal points to be noticed are the 
Roman pharos, or lighthouse — built about the year 43 — and a 
temple ; the subterranean barrack accommodation ; the keep 
built in the reign of Henry III. ; the towers, of various dates 
from Earl Godwin's time downwards ; and the different modern 
erections. Notice also "Queen Elizabeth's Pocket-pistol," a 
piece of Dutch ordnance, twenty-four feet long, presented by 
the States to the Queen of that name; it at one time bore the 
lines, — 

" Polish me bright, and keep me clean, 
I'll send a ball to Calais Green." 

The infantry barracks crown the height over the town, to which 
there is communication by a shaft from Snargate Street. 

Dover is now the principal of the once-famed Cinque Ports. 
The Admiralty Pier is still unfinished; it will form one side 
of the harbour of refuge, and be the landing-place for the mail- 
packets. It is constructed of huge blocks of granite, and is being 
built with so much care that only a few yards are completed each 
year. This harbour, when finished, will enclose 400 acres, and 
will have two entrances, the one 150 and the other 700 feet wide. 



— ¥- 



SECTION LXVIIL 

LONDON, via BRIGHTON AND NEWHAVEN, TO DIEPPE, 
ROUEN, AND PARIS ; AND via LITTLEHAMPTON TO 
HONFLEUR. 

LIKE most of the railways south of the Thames, the London, 
Brighton, and South Coast Company (by whose line the 
tourist will travel on this route to the Continent) possesses more 
than one terminus in the metropolis. Their three great London 
stations are situated at Kensington, Victoria, and London Bridge ; 
and passengers are booked at Wapping by the East London line, 
which joins the system at New Cross. Their network of local 
lines gives access to a number of the most populous southern 
suburbs, and has proved a profitable source of revenue to the 
shareholders. The chief places of attraction in the immediate 
neighbourhood of London are the Crystal Palace (see pages 
360-1), and 



586 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE, 
Epsom 

[Hotels : " King's Head " and " Spread Eagle "] 
(population, 6,276), eighteen miles from London. The Epsom 
course is the site of the Derby, the annual struggle for the blue 
ribbon of the turf, when from the grand stand may be seen one 
of the most extensive gatherings of people from all parts of the 
country. It is estimated that upwards of a hundred thousand per- 
sons assemble every year to see the Derby run, and witness what 
William IV. termed "the noble sport of a free country." Epsom 
is also celebrated for a mineral spring, whose waters are of a 
highly aperient nature, and, being distilled, yield the homely 
medicine known as Epsom salts. 

One of the chief places of interest on the railway,, situated at 
the point where the line branches out east and west, is 

Brighton. 

[Hotels: "Grand," "Bedford," "Albion," "Norfolk," "Royal," "York," 
"Bristol," "Old Ship," "Terminus," "Pier," " Clarence," etc.] 

This is the most celebrated of the English marine watering- 
places, (population, 90,011). It is a modern town, having first 
become the resort of fashion on the building of the Pavilion 
by George IV. Here is the New Pier, which surpasses the 
celebrated Chain Pier, both in beauty of design and in accom- 
modation for promenaders. It is 1,115 ^ eet m length, and is 
constructed of ornamental iron work. Trie principal public 
buildings are the Market Hall ; the New Town Hall ; St. 
Peter's Church, built by Sir C. Barry, the architect of the 
new Houses of Parliament ; the old parish church of St. 
Nicholas, crowning the hill to the north-west of the tow T n ; 
the theatre in the New Road, etc. 

Next to the Devil's Dyke — a hill, with Roman remains, a 
few miles off, commanding a lovely bird's-eye view westward 
to the Isle of Wight, and eastward of Beachy Head and the 
sea as far as the Downs — the best view may be had from the 
hill on which the parish church stands. 

But the principal attraction of Brighton is the new Aquarium, 
built at the foot of the Marine Parade, close to the Chain Pier. 
Here may be seen a superb collection of fishes and other 
denizens of the sea, sporting in vast tanks. At one end is a 
charming fernery, with a fall of fresh water. 

Leaving Brighton, after a short run of about eight miles, 
passing Falmer station, the train arrives at 

Lewes 

[Hotels : " White Hart," " Star," " Crown," and " Bear "], 
an important junction with the direct line from London to 



NEWHA VEN— EASTBOURNE— PEVENSEY. 587 

Newhaven. Lewes is one of the most ancient boroughs in 
the county of Sussex (population 10,753). It is situated on 
the Ouse, about seven miles from the sea, and surrounded by 
an amphitheatre of chalk hills. 

Newhaven 

[Hotels : " London and Paris," " Old Bridge/' " Bidden," and " White 
Hart"] 
(population, 2,549), an old-fashioned fishing town - at the 
mouth of the Ouse, is rapidly increasing in importance, on 
account of its steamboat traffic with Dieppe (sixty-four miles 
distant) and Paris. It was here that Louis Philippe landed 
after his flight from Paris in 1848. An obelisk on the coast 
records the wreck of the ship Brazen, 

Bishopstone village (one mile) and Seaford (three miles) 
are reached by a short branch from Newhaven. The latter is 
a rising watering-place, commanding extensive views of Seaford 
Bay, and well sheltered from the north and east winds. 

Returning to Lewes, a run of about a dozen miles lands 
the tourist at 

Eastbourne 

[Hotels : " Cavendish," " Burlington," and " Sussex "] 
(population, 10,361), a town supposed to have been the Roman 
Anderida, which has of late years become a fashionable and 
thriving watering-place. Situate about three miles east of 
Beachy Head, the grandest cliff along this part of the coast, 
and 564 feet in perpendicular height, its sands are a favourite 
resort for promenading and bathing purposes ; while from its 
pier head may be enjoyed a magnificent view of Pevensey Bay, 
as far as St. Leonards and Hastings, to which towns and to 
Beachy Head water excursions are frequently made. 

From Eastbourne the line runs through Pevensey and 
Bexhill, to St. Leonards and Hastings (already noticed on 
pages 580-1). 

Pevensey 

[Hotels: " Royal Oak," and " Corporation Arms "% 
now a ghost of its former self, possesses many attractions for 
the antiquary, not the least of which is to be found in the fact 
that William the Conqueror is supposed to have landed on its 
shores previous to the battle of Hastings. The southern 
walls of the castle were formerly washed by the waves ; but 
the sea has now retired for a distance of fully two miles. The 
area within the outer walls is about seven acres, and at the 
eastern end of this enclosure stands a moated keep, of qua- 
drangular form, with round towers. 



588 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

Returning to Brighton, a run of nineteen and a half miles 
brings us to Ford Junction, where the more direct 

Mid Sussex Railway 

from London (via Three Bridges and Horsham) joins the 
coast line. Ashort branch from hence conducts the tourist to 

Littlehampton 

[Hotels: "Norfolk," " Beach/' and "George"] 
(population, 3,272), a retired watering-place, whose sands 
afford excellent sea-bathing. The railway company have 
recently established a system of steam communication with 
Honfleur, on the opposite side of the Channel, and distant 102 
miles. In the summer, steamers run to Jersey and Brittany. 
Littlehampton, though now an independent place, was formerly 
the port for 

Arundel 

[Hotels : " Norfolk Arms " and " Railway "], 
a small town with a population of 2,956 souls, chiefly remark- 
able for its ancient church and castle. The chancel contains 
several fine monuments of the Fitzalances, and the latter is 
said to have been founded by Alfred the Great. The keep, 
with its flagstaff, visible from the railway, is all that now 
remains of it. Arundel is a seat of the Duke of Norfolk, to 
whose family it gives a second title. 

Leaving Ford Junction and passing Barnham, the junction 
for Bognor, we reach 

Drayton, 

which, in July each year, presents a busy scene, in consequence 
of the proximity of the Duke of Richmond's seat, Goodwood, 
only three miles distant. Here the Goodwood Cup and other 
prizes are run for, when thousands of the highest and fairest 
of the land flock to see the most aristocratic race-meeting of 
the season. 

The train next stops at 

Chichester 

[Hotels: "Dolphin," "Globe," "Wheatsheaf," "Fleece," and 
"Anchor"], 

which, as its name imports, was a Roman station. The 
town (population, 7,825) is built on the usual plan of two 
long streets intersecting each other at right angles, and 
having a gate at each end, leading through the walls to 
the four cardinal points. At the point of intersection stands 



PORTSMOUTH, 589 



a Market Cross, of very fine execution. The walls at pre- 
sent afford an enjoyable walk round the town, sheltered by 
broad elms. The Grammar School, founded in the fifteenth 
century, matured the youthful faculties of John Alden, the 
eminent historian, antiquary, and statesman of the time of 
the Great Civil War, and William Collins, author of the 
Passions and other exquisite odes. Notice also St. Mary's 
Hospital, the hall and church of which date from the thirteenth 
century, and the Cathedral, a cruciform structure of the twelfth 
century, partly Norman and partly Early English, with a hand- 
some octagonal spire lately restored. The Lady Chapel con- 
tains a library of old and scarce books ; and there are also 
some paintings, besides monuments to Collins, the poet, 
Huskisson, the statesman, and Chillingworth, the celebrated 
controversialist and divine. 

Portsmouth 

[Hotels: " Queen's," "Fountain," "Blue Posts," "Pier," "York," 
"Wellington," " Sussex," and a host of others] 

(population, nearly 120,000), the first in rank of the English 
ports as a naval station, is about sixteen miles distant from 
Chichester, and is the western terminus of the South Coast 
system. The old town is the great naval arsenal of the king- 
dom ; on this account it was till recently fortified in the old- 
fashioned style, with walls, ravelins, ramparts, bastions, and 
wet ditches. But as the chain of forts on Portsdown Hill, and 
those in the Solent, erected on the plan adopted by the late 
Lord Palmerston, have rendered them unnecessary, the ram- 
parts have been, on sanitary grounds, to a great extent re- 
moved, and the moats filled up. The harbour is narrow at the 
mouth, but opens immediately within into an extensive basin, 
which affords the best anchorage in the kingdom, being suffi- 
ciently deep to float the largest vessels at low tide and large 
enough to accommodate the entire British navy. The all- 
absorbing attractions of Portsmouth are the navy, the dock- 
yard, and the fortifications. These last-named have hitherto 
been considered impregnable ; they include the chain of forts 
on Portsdown Hill, to which reference has already been 
made. This hill or chalk cliff is nearly 500 feet in height, 
and commands the entire port and roadstead in front. At 
the foot of the hill is Porchester, the original naval station 
founded by the Romans (Portus Magnus). The massive walls 
erected by them, in some places twelve feet thick, were 
supplemented by a great keep and other fortifications by 
different kings down to the reign of Henry VIII., in whose 
time Porchester was the only naval arsenal of England. 



590 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

The receding of the sea necessitating some change, the 
dockyard on Southsea Island, commenced by Henry VII., 
was now extended, and has gradually expanded to its present 
dimensions, a total area of 117 acres, and a water front nearly 
a mile in length. Admission can be obtained by application 
at the gate, but foreigners must obtain orders from the 
Admiralty. In the harbour may be seen the Victory, the 
favourite flagship of the mighty Nelson. A brass plate on 
the quarter-deck marks the spot where the hero fell. The 
Duke of Wellington, which figured conspicuously in the late 
Russian war, is also anchored in the harbour ; it is the flag- 
ship of the port admiral. A buoy in the roadstead marks the 
spot where the Royal George foundered at her moorings, in 
1782, when Admiral Kempenfeldt and three hundred seamen 
were drowned, besides a crowd of civilians and women. 

The terminus at Portsmouth is connected with Southsea 
pier by a tramway, and steamboats start frequently from the 
pier for 

The Isle of "Wight, 
a distance of six miles, and land passengers at Ryde. This 
delightful island has deservedly earned the title of the " Garden 
of England," on account both of its beautiful and varied 
scenery and its surprisingly equable and salubrious climate, 
which make it the favourite resort of consumptive invalids. 
The average annual mortality at Ventnor, on the south-east 
of the island, is the lowest in the kingdom. But for the story 
of this " beautiful isle of the sea," of its battles, victories, and 
defeats ; of its chines, cliffs, and coves ; bays, harbours, and 
piers; downs, heaths, sands, and shingles ; castles, churches, 
and priories, and the thousand and one beauties of fair Vectis, 
we must refer our readers to Shaw's Shilling Guide to the 
Island. 



SECTION LXIX. 

LONDON, via SOUTHAMPTON, TO HAVRE. 

THE fourth route by which the traveller may leave England 
for the Continent is that adopted by the London and 
South- Western Railway, one of the oldest of the transpontine 
railway companies, and perhaps the most extensive of any of the 
lines south of the river Thames. Its terminus is at Waterloo 
station, near that "bridge of sighs" of which Hood wrote so 



WIMBL ED ON— GUILDFORD. 591 

pathetically ; but it also possesses a branch line connecting it 
with Ludgate Hill station, with running powers over a portion 
of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway, by which means 
it has access to most of the suburbs of the metropolis. A 
short line running to Willesden Junction, too, connects it with 
the London and North- Western system and all the principal 
towns and cities of the kingdom. 

Leaving Waterloo station, the train reaches Vauxhall, at one 
time famous for its pleasure gardens, near to which is Lambeth 
Palace, the London residence of the Archbishop of Canterbury, 
already noticed on page 348. We next come to Ciapham Junc- 
tion, where there is an interchange of traffic with most of the 
leading railway companies, and where a branch (that to Windsor) 
communicates with Richmond and the other places, fully de- 
scribed in Excursion XIII. (pages 355-8). A run of about four 
miles conducts the tourist to 

Wimbledon, 

pronounced by Mrs. S. C. Hall to be "the most interesting of 
all the manors that environ the metropolis." Wimbledon 
Common was formerly celebrated for "affairs of honour," and 
notorious as the resort of highwaymen. Now the meetings of 
the Rifle Association are held here yearly, when the crack 
marksmen of the kingdom engage in ' ' affairs of honour " of a 
different kind, and its highwaymen are those who voluntarily 
undergo forced marches along the highways and byeways of 
" Merrie England," in order to qualify themselves for the defence 
of their hearths and homes, should occasion for their services ever 
arise. 

Esher, two stations further on, is noteworthy from its proximity 
to Claremont, the scene of the last days of Louis Philippe and 
his queen, Marie Amelie. They were both buried in a Roman 
Catholic chapel near Weyb ridge. At Woking, celebrated for its 
cemetery, 

The Direct Line to Portsmouth 

(a town already noticed on pages 589-90) branches off. The only 
town of any importance is 

Guildford 

[Hotels : "White Hart " and "White Lion "] 
(population, 8,020), a borough town situated on the river Wey. 
It has several parish and other churches and chapels, a county 
hall, assize court (in which the Surrey assizes are held, alter- 
nately with Kingston and Croydon), and other public buildings. 
Guildford is the seat of several important manufactories, and 
there is a good racecourse about two miles from the town. 



Leaving Woking, the first place of interest reached is 
Salisbury. 

[Hotels: " White Hart," "Red Lion," and " Three Swans."] 
This town (population, 12,903) is also known by the name of 
New Sarum. It sprang up around the cathedral, founded in 
1 219, when Richard le Poor transferred the see from Old Sarum. 
The cathedral was not, however, finished till the beginning of 
the fourteenth century, when the topstone was placed on its 
magnificent steeple, believed to be the highest in the kingdom. 
The entire structure is built in the Early English style. It would 
be impossible for us to enumerate the countless beautiful features 
of this glorious edifice ; but perhaps the following couplets convey 
as much as any lengthy but inadequate description : — 

"As many days as in one year there be, 
So many windows in this church we see. 
As many marble pillars here appear 
As there are hours throughout the fleeting year. 
As many gates as moons one year doth view ; 
Strange tale to tell, yet not more strange than true." 

Stonehenge, 

a Druidical temple on Salisbury Plain. It appears to have 
originally consisted of two circles and two ovals, composed of 
huge upright blocks of stone, with others laid across the top. 
The outer circle is about a hundred feet in diameter, and was 
composed of about thirty upright stones, surmounted by imposts, 
and forming a kind of architrave ; a part of this circle, having 
the opening between the two inner uprights wider than those 
between the others, is supposed to have been the entrance to 
the temple. Within this greater circle, at a distance of eight 
feet from it, runs another, of small stones of irregular shape, 
perhaps part of a much older temple. Within these circles stand 
two ovals, the outer of which is formed of triliths of various heights, 
increasing from east to west, the tallest left standing being more 
than twenty feet in altitude. The inner oval consists of small 
pillar-stones ; and a slab of micaceous sandstone, lying within this, 
is pointed out as the altar stone. It is about fifteen feet long, 
and does not appear to have been much raised above the ground. 
The whole temple is surrounded by a low earthen wall and by a 
ditch about 479 yards in circumference. 

Leaving Salisbury, the line passes a number of smaller stations, 
including Yeovil, a municipal borough, with a population of 
8,527, whose charter dates from an early age. At a distance of 
eighty-eight miles from the former place, and 171^ from London, 
the tourist reaches 



EXE TER—PL YMO UT1L 593 



Exeter 

[Hotels : " Clarence " and " New London "], 

where the main line proper may be said to terminate. Exeter is 
a cathedral city, with a population of 34,650, agreeably situated on 
a rising ground on the eastern bank of the river Exe, from which 
it takes its name. The river is navigable up to the town, which 
gives the title of Marquis to the family of Cecil. The principal 
buildings are: — The Sessions House, with its fine elm walk, adorned 
with statues of Ackland and Denham ; the Guildhall, an antiquated 
looking edifice, containing several interesting portraits ; the Pic- 
ture Gallery ; the Albert Memorial Museum, etc. But rising 
above all is the Cathedral, founded in the eleventh century, but not 
completed for nearly a century and a half afterwards. Its uniformity 
of design has not, however, suffered on this account, as the original 
plan was preserved in the later additions. The building consists 
of a nave with two side-aisles, two short transepts, a chapter- 
house, a choir with two side- aisles, ten chapels or oratories, and 
a room, called the consistory court. 

From Exeter a branch line runs to Exmouth, its port, a water- 
ing-place first brought into notice by a judge of the circuit having 
received great benefit from sea-bathing and the salubrity of the 
air, when in a very precarious state of health. Sidmouth and 
Seaton, two other watering-places, are reached by short branches 
which leave the main line before reaching Exeter. From the 
cathedral city the line runs round a curve to Yeoford Junction, 
where it divides, one fork running to Plymouth and the other to 
Ilfracombe and Torrington, situated at the mouth of the Bristol 
Channel, vid Barnstaple Junction. 

Plymouth 

[Hotels: "Royal," " Chubb' s Commercial," " Duke of Cornwall," 
"Harvey's," "Globe," and "Albion"] 

is one of the finest and strongest ports in the kingdom ; it 
possesses a naval dockyard and a stupendous breakwater. 
The town (population, 68,758) derives its name from the river 
Plym, at the mouth of which it stands. The Batten and Edge- 
combe Hills protect the roadstead on either hand ; Hoe Cliffe, 
on which the Citadel stands, shelters it from behind ; while 
across the north stretches the gigantic breakwater, composed 
of 2,500,000 tons of stone. It is almost a mile in length, with 
a slight curve inward at either end, allowing a passage for 
shipping. The average width of the base is seventy-five yards, 
and from this grand foundation it slopes upwards to about an 
average width of eleven yards along the top. A lighthouse 
marks the western and a fort the eastern extremity. The 
principal buildings are the naval and military hospital, the 

_ 



594 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

marine barracks, and the commissariat department, which 
cost the nation upwards of ,£1,500,000. 

On the opposite side of the Tamar estuary, or Hamoaze, 
as it is called, stands 

Devonport 
[Hotel: "Royal"], 
a parliamentary borough of 64,034 inhabitants, municipal 
population, 49449. The most striking feature of the town is 
the naval dockyard, which, with the gun-wharf, has an area 
of seventy-five acres. The usual building-slips, storehouses, 
and manufactories are to be seen there ; but the steam docks 
at Keyham, connected with Devonport by a floating bridge, 
are still more interesting. 

The fortification of Plymouth Sound was commenced at 
the time of the Spanish Armada, and it was in this roadstead 
that Drake, Howard, and Hawkins collected their fleet, , 
mostly composed of merchantmen hastily equipped, which 
scattered the vast armament of Philip, and laid the founda- 
tion of British supremacy on the seas. 

About ten miles off the port of Plymouth 

The Eddystone Lighthouse, 

one of the greatest triumphs of marine architecture, stands 
on an insulated rock, the scene of numerous disasters. Two 
successive structures had already been demolished, when John 
Smeaton, the celebrated engineer, was consulted. He made 
the trunk of the oak tree his model, as it seemed to him to 
possess the greatest power of resistance to external violence. 
Tourists wishing to visit the Land's End, the most western 
point of England, can book for Penzance and Truro by the 
Cornwall Railway ; but as the South-Western line terminates at 
Plymouth and Devonport, we must now retrace our steps to 
Basingstoke, where the Southampton trains leave the main 
line. 

Basingstoke 

is a municipal borough with a population 01^5,574; its parish 
church is interesting. The edifice is said to have been built 
by Bishop Fox, about 1520, and its windows contain some fine 
modern painted glass, as well as portions of the glass removed 
from the ancient chapel of the Holy Ghost, the ruins of which 
should be visited. 

Winchester 

[Hotels : " George," "Black Swan," and " White Svran "] 
(population, 16,366) is a city of great antiquity, having been 
the capital of the ancient Belgce, a Roman station, and sub- 



sequently the chief town of the West Saxons anterior to the 
Conquest. After that event it continued to be an occasional 
royal residence down to the reign of Henry VIII. In the 
Town Hall is preserved to this day the original "Winchester 
bushel" given by King Edgar, and which remained until 1826 
the standard English measure. A palace, erected by Charles 
II., occupies the site of the old castle. It is now used as 
barracks for the Rifle Brigade, but its chapel has been con- 
verted into a shire hall. At the east end of this hangs King 
Arthur's "Round Table," dating from the reign of Stephen. 
It contains portraits of the knights, with their respective names. 
The tourist should not omit seeing the venerable Hospital of St. 
Cross, founded by Henry of Blois, Bishop of Winchester, and 
brother to King Stephen, for thirteen poor men, and also to pro- 
vide relief for a hundred poor men of the city. The establish- 
ment now is much reduced both as regards indoor and outdoor 
relief, but a quantity of bread and cheese and beer is supplied to 
the porter for all wayfarers who choose to knojck at the door and 
demand it. Dr. Lingard was a native of Winchester, and here, in 
185 1, Mr. Andrews entertained the Hungarian patriot, Kossuth. 
The Cathedral, in which was preserved the Domesday Book, 
previous to its transference to Westminster Abbey, is worth 
visiting. The construction of the building is somewhat unique. 
It exhibits specimens of almost the entire series of styles which 
have been fashionable in England from the Anglo-Saxon period, 
and exceeds in length all the cathedrals of the kingdom, being 
518 feet from east to west. The bishopric of Winchester is said 
to be the richest in the kingdom. 

Passing Bishopstoke, the junction for Portsmouth, the tourist 
arrives at 

Southampton 

[Hotels : " Imperial," " Royal/'' " Dolphin," (i Radley 5 ?," " Star," and 
Crown "J, 

the chief mail-packet station in England. The Peninsular and 
Oriental, the Royal Mail Steampacket (for South America, 
West Indies, and Vancouver's Island), the Union Steamship 
(for Madeira and West Coast of Africa), and the North German 
Lloyd Steamship (for Bremen and Antwerp, from North America 
and Havannah) companies, all make Southampton their entrepot. 
The town stands on an estuary of the combined waters of the 
Teet and Itchen, and contains 53,741 inhabitants. 

The only attraction for the tourist will probably be an excur- 
sion to Lyndhurst and Stony Cross, in the New Forest, which 
has recently attracted attention from its connection with "the 
Shakers." At the latter place stood the famous Canterton Oak 



596 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

off which Tyrell's arrow glanced and killed William Rufus, in 
i ioo. The spot is now marked by an inscribed stone. Notice 
also, on the Itch en, the Military Hospital, founded in 1856, for 
the instruction of the army and navy medical officers. It is built 
of red brick, pointed with stone, and presents a very handsome 
facade a quarter of a mile in length. About three miles distant, 
in the same direction as the hospital, stands Netley Abbey, of 
which Horace Walpole gives a description. 

Christchurch, Bournemouth, and other fashionable watering- 
places may be visited by a continuation of the line which runs 
from Southampton to Dorchester, Weymouth, and 

Portland, 

celebrated for its convict prison and its breakwater. The latter 
is a massive stone causeway, a mile and a half long and a 100 
feet high above its wide nibble base. Intended as a harbour of 
refuge, near the bend in the middle an opening is left for the 
entrance of ships, at a point protected by a strong fort. The 
history of the breakwater (justly considered as one of the crown- 
ing glories of the reign of Queen Victoria) is briefly epitomised 
by the inscriptions on its foundation and terminal stones : — 

"From this spot, on the 25th of July, 1840, Albert, Prince 
Consort of Queen Victoria, sank the First Stone of the break- 
water." 

"Upon the same spot, on the 10th of August, 1872, Albert 
Edward, Prince of Wales, laid the Last Stone, and declared 
the work completed." 



SECTION LXX. 

LONDON, via COLCHESTER AND HARWICH, TO ANTWERP 
AND ROTTERDAM. 

THIS, the fifth route to the Continent, is in connection with 
the line belonging to the Great Eastern Railway Company, 
who enjoy the monopoly of serving the towns in the eastern 
counties, from which fact the system was formerly known as the 
Eastern Counties Railway. Of late years, however, its large 
development has fully justified the change made in its title. 
The head-quarters of the system are at the new and splendid 
Liverpool Street terminus, in constructing the lines to which the 
company conferred a boon on the inhabitants of the metropolis 
by the destruction of the nests of hovels in and about Long Alley 



STRATFORD JUNCTION— COLCHESTER. 597 

and its neighbourhood. The position of this station is such as to 
afford a much-needed connecting link between the northern and 
southern railway systems, by connection with the Metropolitan 
line, whose Bishopsgate station is contiguous. From it radiate a 
number of branch lines, which run to most of the northern and 
eastern suburbs, having their termini at Woolwich, Ongar, Ching- 
ford, Buntingford, Hertford, and Enfield ; whilst the main lines 
make the circuit of the district the railway was designed to serve, 
with " grid-iron" branches to all its chief places of interest. 

Leaving the Liverpool Street station, the line crosses Bishops- 
gate Street and reaches Shoreditch station, formerly its metro- 
politan terminus. 

Stratford Junction 
connects the main lines to Cambridge and to Colchester (by the 
latter of which we suppose our tourist to be travelling), and the 
branches for Loughton and Ongar, for Woolwich, and for Victoria 
Park, and with the North London line. Here the company 
have their works. 

Romford (noted for its ales), Brentwood (formerly a place of 
rest for pilgrims to the shrine of Thomas-a-Becket), and other 
stations are passed, and the tourist reaches 

Chelmsford 

[Hotels : " Saracen's Head," "White Hart," and " Bell] 
(population 9,318), the county town of Essex, where the assizes 
and quarter sessions are held. The parish church, dedicated to 
St. Mary, the shire hall, Edward VI. 's Grammar School, the 
theatre, gaol, etc., are among its chief attractions. The ancient 
conduit, quadrangular in form, is 15 feet high and built of 
stone and brick. The purest of water is perpetually flowing 
from it, and the quantity discharged is considerable. Near the 
conduit is a monument to Lord Chief Justice Tindal, a native of 
the town, and formerly a pupil at the Grammar School. 

Nothing of moment greets the eye until, at a distance of fifty- 
one miles from London, the train reaches 

Colchester 

[Hotels : "Three Cups," " Fleece," " Red Lion," and "George "], 
on the river Colne, supposed to be the Cameloduniim of the 
Romans (population, 26,343). Here reigned Cymbeline and 
Caractacus, the famous British kings ; and here, according to 
some authorities, the Emperor Constantine the Great was born. 
There are remains of a Norman abbey, built in the reign of 
the Conqueror, consisting of an ancient gateway, and St. 
Botolph's Church, of which the west front is still standing. 
There are traces also of the ancient walls, and several very 



598 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

old houses, dating from the fifteenth century downwards. Col- 
chester manufactures silk and velvet, and has been a military 
station of some importance since the Russian war, when a train- 
ing camp was established in the neighbourhood. 

Journeying from Colchester, we leave the main line at Man- 
ningtree, eight miles further on, and in due time reach 

Harwich. 

[Hotels : " Great Eastern," " Three Cups," and the " Cliff Hotel " at 
Dovercourt.] 

This seaport (population, 6,079) stands near the junction of the 
Stour and Orwell rivers, which here, blending their waters, form 
a fine estuary, that expands into an inlet capable of affording 
anchorage to a large fleet. These advantages have made Harwich 
the packet-station for the steamers plying daily to Rotterdam 
(120 miles). There is also a line to Antwerp (140 miles), run- 
ning thrice a week, and affording a short route to Germany. The 
town itself, especially on approaching it from the sea, presents 
a very picturesque appearance, with its breakwater, lighthouses, 
fort, and esplanade, crowned by the church, which occupies a 
prominent position in the centre of the view. The neighbour- 
hood, too, has considerable attractions. Not the least of these 
is Dovercourt, with its handsome church, rebuilt during the pre- 
sent century, an agreeable suburban watering-place. Returning 
to Manningtree, the next place of interest is 

Ipswich 

["Hotels : " Crown and Anchor," " Golden Lion," " White Hart," and 
''White Horse "], 

the county town of Suffolk. It is a very old town, and exhibits 
traces of its antiquity. Ipswich was the birthplace of Cardinal 
Wolsey, whose father was a butcher here ; the house in which 
Wolsey first saw the light is still shown to the curious. The 
town boasts of a public park and arboretum, and contains 42,947 
inhabitants. It derives its principal celebrity at the present day 
from the extensive works of Messrs. Ransom and Sims, agricul- 
tural implement makers. 

Lowestoft 

[Hotels : " Royal," " Suffolk," and " Crown "] 
(population, 15,246) is a seaport, built on a sandy cliff overlooking 
the German Ocean, remarkable as being the landing-place of the 
first American ambassador, Adams, in 1784. George III. had 
the good grace to receive him cordially, and to endeavour in 
some measure to blot out the remembrance of his past cruelty 



GREA T YARMOUTH—NOR WICH—EL Y. 599 

and obstinacy. The Duke of York defeated the Dutch in a 
naval engagement off the port, in 1685. Lowestoft possesses two 
good harbours, and does a considerable trade with Denmark. 

Great Yarmouth 

[Hotels : " Royal," "Victoria," "Angel," and " Bath "] 
is an' ancient and extensive seaport and watering-place, with a 
line sandy beach, at the mouth of the river Yare. Its popula- 
tion in 1871 was 41,819. It is principally known for its trade in 
fish, " Yarmouth bloaters " being of universal celebrity. It was 
formerly surrounded by a wall, portions of which may yet be 
traced ; the wall had ten gates and sixteen towers. The Town 
Hall, the parish church, and the new fishmarket are its only 
noteworthy buildings ; the quay, the beach, and the marine 
drive are enjoyable places for exercise. Caister Castle, erected 
by Henry VIII. , and B rough Castle, a well-preserved Roman 
camp, are within easy excursion limits. 

Norwich 

[Hotels : " Royal," " Norfolk," " Maid's Head," and " Castle "], 
the county town of Norfolk, occupies an imposing site on the 
banks of the Wensum, which intersects the town. The greater 
part stands on the south of the river, on the sides and summit 
of a hill, which is crowned by the ancient castle. This fea- 
ture, together with the cathedral towers and the spires of the 
different churches, gives a most picturesque appearance to 
the town, and the numerous open spaces laid out as gardens 
and squares, and planted with trees, confirm the good impres- 
sion made by a distant view. Norwich (population, 80,386) 
is the centre of a flourishing trade in woollen manufactured 
goods, mohair, silk, and worsted. The Cathedral is situated 
on low ground, which detracts considerably from its appear- 
ance. Originally the structure was of wood, but this material 
was gradually replaced by stone during the four centuries 
succeeding its foundation in iog6. The dates of the different 
erections are not fixed with certainty, and several styles are 
exhibited; but Anglo-Norman characteristics predominate. 

Ely 
[Hotels : " Lamb " and " Bell " ] 
is another cathedral city, with a population of 8,166. It is 
situated on an island, round which the river Ouse flows, and 
which gives its name to the city. The cathedral was founded in 
1 109, when the bishop was first consecrated; but the nave, the 
oldest portion of the present edifice, was not completed till 1174 



6oo LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 

It is one of the largest, and in many respects the handsomest, of 
our English cathedrals. 

Peterborough (see pages 317-8) and Cambridge (pages 320-2) 
have been already noticed. 

Newmarket, 

the " turf metropolis," is situated on the borders of the counties 
of Cambridge and Suffolk. It owes its origin to the hunting 
seat erected here by James I., and to the partiality of his suc- 
cessors to the spot, a partiality which well-nigh caused Charles 
II. to lose his life at the hands of the Rye House conspirators. 

Bury St. Edmunds, 

the next station of any importance, stands upon the slope of a 
hill, and is a borough of great antiquity (population, 14,928). 
Edmund, king of East Anglia, was buried here, and the town 
owes its importance to an abbey founded by Canute, to com- 
memorate Edmund's martyrdom. 

From Bury the tourist may reach Harwich, via Ipswich and 
Manningtree, or via Melford, Colchester, and Manningtree. 



OUR welcome task is now complete. We have accompanied 
the tourist to every spot worth visiting in the British Isles, 
now traversing the plain, and then wandering by the seashore ; 
now journeying through the lovely vales of the interior of the 
country, and now climbing the mountains or standing on the 
summit of its ocean cliffs from whence 

" The ravished eye 

Sees earth with heaven, and heaven 
With ocean vie ; " 

and now we would lay down our pen, yet, ere doing so, would 
bid those who have accompanied us thus far, " Adieu," and 

"Bon Voyage." 



INDEX. 


A. 


Ardrishaig, 540 


Abbotsford, 573-4 


Ardwick, 363 


Aber, 206 


Arkleston Tunnel, 477 


Aberchalder, 551 


Armer's Hole, 178 


Aberdeen, 564-5 


Armitage, 290 


Aberdovey, 225 


Arnside, 438 


Aberfeldy, 560 


Aros Bay, 544 


Aberfoyle, 505 


Arran Isles, 146 


Abergavenny, 457 


Arundel, 588 


Abergavenny Junction, 457 


Ashperton, 423 


Abergeldie, 568-9 


Ashton-under-Lyne, 399 


Abergele, 208 


Astley, 363 


Abernethy, 563 


Aston Abbott's House, 275 


Aberystwith, 225-6, 418 


Athenry, 142 


Abington, 461 


Atherstone, 290 


Achanasheen, 554 


Athlone, 141, 156 


Achanault, 554 


Aylesbury, 329-30 


Achanlochan, 557 


Ayr, 472-3 


Achill Island, 152 




Acton (Cheshire), 262 


B. 


Acton Bridge, 428 


Baberton, 506 


Adare Castle, 135 


Bagillt, 210 


Admaston, 419 


Bala, 227 


Afon-Wen, 219 


Balbriggan, 183 


Aghadoe, Ruins of, 125 


Balla, 156 


Ailsa Crag, 473 


Ballachulish, 549 


Alderley, 415 


Ballater, 568 


Alexandria, 503 


Ballatruh, 569 


Allerton (Lancashire), 233, 260 


Ballina, 153 


Allerton (Yorkshire), 405 


Ballinamallard, 183 


Alrewas, 300 


Ballinasloe, 142 


Alsager, 291 


Ballingan, 180 


Alton Towers, 395-7 


Ballinluig, 560 


Alves, 563 


Balloch, 502 


Ambleside, 445-8 


Ballochmyle Viaduct, 470 


Ampthill, 319 


Ballybay, 184 


Annan, 467 


Ballybrack, 192 


Antrim, 169 


Ballycarry, 168 


Arbroath, 566 


Ballycastle, 166-7 


Ardnamurchan, 545 


Ballyhaimis, 156 



602 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 


Ballyhooley, 108 


Ben Voirlich, 501 


Ballymena, 169 


Ben Wyvis, 554 


Ballymoe, 156 


Berkhampsted, 277 


Ballymoney, 169 


Berkshire Island, 444 


Ballymote, 156 


Berkswell, 273 


Bally muny, 156 


Berrington, 421 


Ballynahinch, 149 


Beswick, 363 


Ballyshannon, 157 


Betley Road, 263 


Ballysodare, 153, .156 


Bettisfield, 418 


Ballyvaughan, 139 


Bettws-y-Coed, 207, 219 


Balmaha, 500 


Bewdley, 421, 423 


Balmoral, 568 


Bexhill, 587 


Banbridge, 174 


Bicester, 323 


Banbury, 328 


Billing Road, 317 


Bangor, 205 


Birkenhead, 230 


Bannockburn, 489-90 


Birmingham, 265-273, 296, 427 


Bantry Bay, 112 


Birnam, 560 


Bare Lane, 437 


Birstall, 401 


Barford, 315 


Bishop Briggs, 488 


Barlaston, 293 


Bishopstoke, 595 


Barmouth Junction, 225 


Bishopstone, 587 


Barnewell, 317 


Blaby, 305 


Barnham Junction, 588 


Blackpool, 436-7 


Barton Hill, 410 


Blackrock Castle, 91 


Barton Moss, 363 


Blackrock (Dublin), 191 


Barton and Walton, 300 


Blackwater, 101 


Barrow-in-Furness, 442 


Blaenavon, 458 


Basingstoke, 594 


Blair Athole, 559-60 


Bassenthwaite, 451 


Blakesley, 310 


Batley, 401 


Blarney Castle, 96-9 


Battle, 580 


Blarney Stone, 96 


Bay Horse, 432 


Blencow, 451 


Bealach-nam-Bo, 496 


Bletchley, 296, 318, 323, 327 


Beattock, 460, 462 


Blisworth, 275, 310, 315, 322, 328 


Beaufort, 458 


Blunham, 320 


Beauly Firth, 553 


Blvthe Bridge, 294 


Beaumaris, 205 


Boat of Insh, 558 


Bebington, 229 


Bod organ, 203 


Beddgelert, 216 


Bolton-le-Sands, 432, 430 


Bedford, 319-20 


Bonnington, 466 


Beechwood Tunnel, 6, 7 


Bo-Peep Tunnel, 580 


Beeston, 233 


Borth, 225 


Begelly, 456 


Both well Bridge, 487 


Belfast, 169-72 


Bothwell Castle, 487-8, 535 


Bellaghy, 169 


Bournemouth, 596 


Belleek, 157 


Bowland, 570 


Bellside, 506 


Bowling Bay, 537 


Ben An, 501 


Bowness, 444-5 


Ben Lomond, 498, 500 


Bow Street, 225 


Ben Venue, 496, 497 


Boxmoor, 277 



INDEX. 


603 


Boyle, 156 


Bute, 538 




Brackley, 328 


But term ere, 450 




Bradley, 401 


Buttevant, 129 




Braemar, 560, 568 


Buttington, 419 




Braidwood, 461 


Buxton, 380-6 




Braithwaite, 451 


By field, 310 




Brandon, 274 






Bransford Road, 425 


C. 




Bray, 192 


Cader Idris, 227 




Brecon, 454 


Caermarthen, 420, 455-6 




Breich, 506 


Caernarvon, 215 




Bricket Wood, 330 


Cahirciveen, 127 




Bridge of Allan, 492 


Caledonian Canal, 551 




Bridlington Quay, 414 


Callander, 493-5 




Brig o'Don, 564 


Callioch Point, 545 




Brigham, 451 


C'althwaite, 435 




Brighton, 586 


Calveley, 233 




Brinklow, 291 


Calvine, 559 




Brittania Tubular Bridge, 204 


Cambridge, 320-2 




Broadford, 554 


Cambuskenneth Abbey, 504 




Broad Green, 362 


Cambuslang, 486 




Brock, 432 


Camden Town, 280 




Bromborougb, 229-30 


Camerton, 451 




Bromfield, 420 


Campsie, 488 




Broome, 453 


Canals, List of, 13 




Broomhill, 558 


Canterbury, 579 




Broughton, 432 


Capenhurst, 229 




Broughton Cross, 451 


Capital, etc., of the Com pan) 


r, 12 


Brownhills, 298 


Cappoquin, 102 




Bruar Water, 559 


Cardiff, 458 




Bruree, 134 


Cark, 438 




Brynmawr, 458 


Carlingford Lough, 179 




Brynn, 430 


Carlisle, 435, 452, 459, 467, 


477 


Buckingham, 327 


Carluke, 461 




Bucklyvie, 505 


Carndonagh, 160 




Bucknell, 453 


Carnforth, 432, 438 




Builth, 453 


Carran Tual, 123-5 




Builth Road, 453 


Carriage Works, Wolverton 


43" 


Bulkington, 291 


52 




Bundoran, 157, 183 


Carrick-a-Rede Bridge, 165- 


6 


Burlington, 414 


Carrickfergus, 168 




Burneside, 443 


Carrickmines, 195 




Burns' Monument, 467-8 


Carron Bridge, 469, 554 




Burslem, 292 


Carstairs 461, 465 




Burton (Westmoreland), 433 


Cartlane Crags, 466 




Burton-on-Trent, 295, 300-1 


Cartmel, 438 




Bury Lane, 363 


Cashel, Rock of, 130 




Bury St. Edmunds, 600 


Castle Ashby, 317 




Bush, 180 


Castlebar, 153, 156 




Bushey, 279 


Castleblaney, 184 





604 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 


Castlecart, 489 


Clones, 184 


Castle Campbell, 504 


Clonsilla, 140 


Castleconnel, 135 


Clontarf Castle, 189 


Castle Douglas, 478 


Closeburn, 468 


Castle Howard (Wicklow), 199 


Cloyne, 90 


Castle Howard (Yorkshire), 410 


Coatbridge, 506 


Castle Kennedy, 479 


Cockermouth, 451 


Castlereagh, 156 


Colchester, 597-8 


Castlerock, 161 


Coleraine, 160, 168 


Castleton (Derbyshire), 386-8 


Colfin, 479 


Castleton of Braemar, 569 


Colintraive Pier, 539 


Castletownroche, 108 


Collins Green, 362 


Castor, 317 


Collooney, 156 


Catrine, 471 


Coloe, 544 


Cattail, 405 


Colwall, 424 


Cavan, 141 


Colwich, 290 ■ 


Chapel-en-le-Frith, 379-80 


Comber, 176 


Chapelhope, 463-4 


Colwyn Station, 208 


Charlecote, 315 


Commercial Traveller's Schools, 


Charleville, 129 


279 


Chatham, 583 


Condover, 417, 420 


Chat Moss, 3, 363 


Cong, 147-8 


Chatsworth House, 388-90 


Connemara, 146 


Cheadle Hulme, 415 


Conway, 206 


Cheddington Junction, 276, 329 


Cookstown Junction, 169 


Cheetham, 363 


Coppull, 430 


Chelford, 415 


Cork, 92 


Chelmsford, 597 


Drives in its Vicinity, 94 


Chester, 210-5, 22 9 


Cork and Limerick Direct Rail- 


Chichester, 588-9 


way, 129 


Chislehurst, 580 


Corpach, 550 


Christchurch, 596 


Corra Linn, 465 


Chorlton-upon-Medlock, 363 


Corrie Bhreachan, 541 


Churchill, 427 


Corwen, 209, 227 


Church Stretton, 420 


Coventry/ 273-4, 281 


Churwell, 402 


Cowal, 538 


Cilmery, 454 


Cowlairs, 488 


Clapham Junction, 591 


Cradley, 427 


Claremorris, 156 


Craigieburn Wood, 462 


Claydon, 323 


Craig Phadric, 553 


Clayton Bridge, 399 


Craven Arms, 420, 453 


Cleaton, 451 


Creetown, 479 


Cleland, 506 


Cresswell, 294 


Cleobury Mortimer, 423 


Crewe, 233, 263, 291, 409, 416, 


Clifden, 150 


427 


Cliffs of Moher, 139 


Crewe Mechanics' Institution, 41 


Clifton, 433 


Crewe Works, 19-42 


Clifton Mill, 308 


Deviation Works, 37 


Clifton Tunnel, 6, 7 


Engine Works, 40 


Clondalkin, 133 


History of, 19 



INDEX. 605 


Crewe Works, continued — 


Dewsbury, 401 


Old Works, 21 


Diggle, 400 


Rail Works, 38 


Dingwall, 553-4 


Steel Works, 28 


Dinmore, 421 


Workmen's Houses, 40 


Dinwoodie, 460 


Criccieth, 219 


Directors, List of, 10, 12 


Crick, 275 


Disley, 379 


Crieff, 563 


Ditchford, 317 


Crinan Canal, 540 


Ditton, 260 


Croom, 134 


Ditton Junction, 233 


Crosby Street Station (Liver- 


Ditton Viaduct, 233 


pool), 249 


Dolau, 453 


Cross Lane, 363 


Dolgelly, 226 


Crossmichael, 478 


Dollar, 504 


Croy, 489 


Donaghadee, 172 


Crystal Palace, 360-1 


Donnington, 419 


Culloden Moor, 553, 556 


Donnybrook, 195 


Culloville, 184 


Dorrington, 420 


Culter, 567 


Douglas, 466 


Cummertrees, 467 


Doune, 493 


Curragh of Kildare, 132 


Dovedale, 398 


Currie, 506 


Dove Holes, 380 


Curwen's Island, 444 


Dover, 584-5 


Cushendall, 167 


Dowlais, 458 


Cwmbran, 457 


Downpatrick, 176 


Cynghordy, 454 


Dowth, 182 




Drayton, 588 


D. 


Drogheda, 181 


Dalbeattie, 478 


Droitwich, 421, 423, 426 


Dalcross, 556 


Dromore (Connemara), 153, 174 


Dalguise, 560 


Dromore (Scotland), 478 


Dalhousie, 570 


Droylsden, 399 


Dalkeith Palace, 534 


Drumlanrig Castle, 469 


Dalkey, 192 


Dryburgh Abbey, 575 


Dalnaspidal, 559 


Dublin, 184-9 


Dalreoch, 503 


Dubton, 565 


Dairy, 475 


Dudley, 296 


Dalton, 439 


Dudley Port, 265, 297 


Dalwhinnie, 559 


Duffws, 220, 223 


Darlaston, 297 


Dumbarton, 503, 537 


Dava, 557 


Dumfries, 467-8, 477 


Davenport, 379 


Dunamon, 156 


Deepfields, 265 


Dunblane, 492 


Delphi, 151 


Duncraggan's Huts, 495 


Denbigh, 209 


Dundalk, 179, 184 


Denbigh Hall, 5 


Dundee, 566-7 


Derby, 295, 302-3 


Dundrum, 195 


Derwydd Road, 454 


Dundrum Station, 130 


Devil's Bridge, 226 


Dunglass Castle, 537 


Devonport, 594 


Dunham Hill, 231 



6o6 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 


Dunkeld, 561 


Etruria, 292 


Dunmore, 494 


Euston Station, 1, 8-ti, 281 


Dunmurry, 173 


Euxton, 430 


Dunolly Castle, 542 


Exeter, 593 


Dunoon, 502, 538 


Extent of the System, 12 


Dunphail, 557 


Eyam, 387 


Dunragit, 479 


Eye, 421 


Dimrobin, 555 




Dunseverick Castle, 165 


F. 


Dunstable, 328 


Fairhead Cliffs, 166 


Dunstaffnage Castle, 542 


Farrington, 430 


Dutton Viaduct, 428 


Farthinghoe, 32S 


Dyce Junction, 567 


Fauldhouse, 506 




Fearnslock, 141 


E. 


Fenn's Bank, 418 


Earlston, 574-5 


Fenny Compton, 310 


Earlestown Junction Waggon 


Fenny Stratford, 312 


Works, 53, 362, 429 


Fermoy, 108 


Eastbourne, 587 


Ffestiniog, 223-4 


Eastham, 258-9 


Ffestiniog Railway, 220-4 


East Tarbert, 540 


Ffordd Helen, 224 


Ebbw Vale, 458 


Fingal's Cave, 546-7 


Ecclefechan, 460 


Firth of Forth, 569 


Eccles, 363 


Fiaxton, 410 


Eccleshall, 263 


Fleetwood, 437 


Edge Hill, 233, 260, 362, 


Flimby, 452 


Edinburgh, 506-30, 532, 569 


Flint, 210 


Eddystone Lighthouse, 594 


Flookburgh, 438 


Eglington Castle, 475 


Floriston, 460 


Egremont (Cumberland), 451 


Folkestone, 582 


Egremont (Lancashire), 257 


Ford Bridge, 421 


Elgin, 563-4 


Ford Junction, 587 


Ellen's Isle, 497 


Forfar, 565-6 


Ellesmere, 418 


Forres, 557, 563 


Ellesmere Canal, 418 


Fort Augustus, 551-2 


Ellesmere Port, 229 


Fort George, 556 


Elmesthorpe, 305 


Fort William, 550-1 


Elton, 317 


Fota Island. 91 


Elvanfoot, 460 


Fountainhall, 570 


Ely, 599, 600 


Foxford, 153, 156 


Embleton, 451 


Foyers, 552 


Engine Works, Crewe, 19 


Foynes, 136 


Ennis, 140 


Frankton, 418 


Enniskillen, 158, 183 


Frodsham, 231 


Epsom, 586 


Furness Abbey, 439-41 


Eriska Island, 549 


Furness Vale, 379 


Erriff River, 151 


Fushiebridge, 570 


Eskbank, 570 




Eton College, 3-3 


G. 


Ettingion, 310 


Galashiels, 570, 571 



INDEX. 


607 


Galgate, 432 


Gresford, 228 




Galway, 143-6 


Gretna Green, 460, 467 




Galway Bay, 145 


Grey Mare's Tail, 462-3 




Gamlingay, 320 


Greys tones, 195 




Gap of Dnnloe, 119 


Groeslon, 219 




Gamkirk, 506 


Guay, 560 




Garstang Junction, 432 


Guildford, 591 




Garswood, 430 


Guy's Cliff, 289 




Gartcosh, 506 






Garth, 454 


H. 




Gartsherrie, 505 


H addon Hall, 390-4 




Garve, 554 


Hadley, 419 




Giant's Causeway, 161-4 


Hadlow Road, 229 




Gilford, 174 


Hadnall, 416 


, 


Gland ovey, 225 


Hagley, 427 




Glanrhyd, 454 


Halewood, 233, 260 




Glasgow, 480-5, 488, 500, 536 


Halfwav- House, 148 




Glenarm, 167 


Halkirk, 555 




Glenbrook, 91 


Hamilton, 486-7 




Glencoe, 549, 550 


Hammerton, 405 




Glendalough (Connemara), 14S- 


Hainmerwich, 298 




1 5 ( => 


Hampton Court, 356 




Glendalough (Wicklow), 197 


Hampton in Arden, 273 




Glenfinlas, 495 


Hampton Lucy, 315 




GlengarifTe, 112-5 


Handforth, 415 




Glenluce, 479 


Hanley, 293-4 




Gnosal, 419 


Hanwood, 419 




Golborne, 429 


Harker, 5 77 




Golcar, 400 


Harlech, 224 




Goold's Cross, 130 


Harrington, 452 




Goragh Wood, 174 


Harrogate, 405 




Gorebridge. 570 


Harrow, 279 




Gormanstown, 182 


Hartford, 262, 427 




Gougaune-BaiTa, in 


Haniebury Junction, 423, 


426 


Gourock Bay, 538 


Harwich, 59S 




Govan, 537 


Hastings, 581 




Grange, 438 


Hathersage, 388 




Granton, 530 


Haughton, 419 




Grasmere, 447 


Hawick, 577 




Gravesend, 360 


Hawthomden, 533 




Grayrigg, 433 


Haxby, 410 




Great Bridge, 297 


Hazeldean, 576 




Great Malvern, 424-5 


Hazel Grove, 570. 




Great Yarmouth, 599 


Hazle-Hatch, 133 




Green castle, 160 


Headfoicl, 129 




Greenfield, 399 


Heaton Chapel, 378 




Greenhill Junction, 4S9, 569 


Heaton Xorris, 378 




Greenock, 538 


Helm don, 528 




Greenore, 18, 179, 180 


Helmsdale, 555 




Greenwich, 358-9 


Helsby, 229, 231 





6o8 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 


Hen Holme, 445 


Invercauld, 569 


Henwick, 425 


Inverness, 552-3, 556, 563 


Hereford, 421-2, 423, 457 


Inversnaid, 597 


Heriot, 570 


Iona, 547-8 


Hermitage Castle, 576 


Ipswich, 598 


Hessay, 405 


Irvine, 475 


Hest Bank, 432, 433 


Islip, 323 


Higham Ferrers, 317 


Isle of Wight, 590 


Hillsborough, 174 


Ivinghoe, 5 


Hilltown, 175 




Hinckley, 304 


j. 


History of the Liverpool and 


Jardine Hall, 460 


Manchester Railway, 2 


Jedburgh, 576 


History of the London and Bir- 


Jewry Wall, 305 


mingham Railway, 3 


John Brown's Grave, 470 


History of the London and 


Jura Island, 540 


North -Western Railway, 1 




History of the Manchester and 


K. 


Birmingham Railway, 5 


Kaimes Castle, 539 


Hobb's Point, 456 


Kanturk, 129 


Hockley, 420 


Kendal, 442 


Holme, 433 


Kenilworth, 281 


Holme Island, 438 


Kenmare, 115 


Holmes Chapel, 415 


Kensal Green Cemetery, 280 


Holyhead, 202-3 


Kensal Green Tunnel, 6 


Holy town, 506 


Kents Bank, 438 


Holywell, 210 


Kenyon Junction, 363 


Holywood, 468 


Kenyon Tunnel, 6, 7 


Hooton, 229 


Kerrera Sound, 541-2 


Hopton Heath, 453 


Kershope Foot, 577 


Hough, 363 


Kesh, 158 


Howth, Excursion to, 189-90 


Keswick, 448, 451 


Huddersfield, 401 


Kew, 355 


Huddersfield Tunnel, 6, 7, 400 


Kidderminster, 427 


Hulme, 363 


Kidsgrove Junction, 291 


Huskisson, 3, 256 


Kilbirnie, 475 


Huyton, 362, 430 


Kilburn, 280 


Hythe, 581 


Kilcock, 141 




Kildare, 132 


I. 


Kilearn, 488 


Ilfracombe, 455 


Kilgetty, 456 


Ince, 229 


Kilkee, 137-9 


Inch Calliach, 498 


Kilkeel, 175, 178 


Inchigeela, in 


Killala Bay, 153 


Inchmahome Island, 535 


Killarney, 116 


Inchmarnock, 539 


Killiecrankie, 560 


Ingleton, 433 


Killywhan, 478 


Inismore, 146 


Kilmallock, 129 


Innisfallen Island, 126 


Kilmarnock, 471 


Inniskeen, 184 


Kilpatrick, 537 



Kilroot, 168 
Kilrush, 136-7 
Kilsby Tunnel, 4, 6, 274-5 
Kilwinning, 475 
Kineton, 310 
Kingsknowe, 506 
King's Langley, 277 
Kingston-on-Thames, 356-7 
Kingstown, 191 
Kingussie, 558 
Kinioss, 563 
Kirkby Lonsdale, 433 
Kirkconnell, 469 
Kirkcowan, 479 
Kirkgunzeon, 478 
Kirkham (Lancashire), 436 
Kirkham (Yorkshire), 410 
Kirkpatrick, 460 
Kirkwall, 555 
Kirtlebridge, 460 
Knaresborough, 405 
Knighton, 453 
Knockcroghery, 156 
Knocklong, 130 
Knucklas, 453 
Kylemore Pass, 150 
Kyles of Bute, 539 

L. 

Lady Holme, 445 
Lady's Rock, The, 544 
Lake Side, 443 
Lakes, The, 443-4 
Lakes of Killarney, 117-8 
Lamington, 461 
Lamphey, 456 
Lanark, 465 
Lancaster, 432, 437 
Land of Scott, 461 
Larbert, 489 
Larne, 167-3 
Lasswade, 533-4 
Laytown, 182 
Lea Green, 362 
Lea Hurst, 398 
Leamington, 284-5 
Lea Road, 436 
Leasowe, 258, 272 
Ledbury, 423 
Ledsham, 229 



Leebotwood, 420 

Leeds, 402-5 

Leenane, 151 

Leicester, 305-7 

Leigh, 294 

Leighton, 328 

Leigh ton Buzzard, 276 

Leith, 531 

Lenzie Junction, 489 

Leominster, 421 

Levenshulme, 378 

Lewes, 586-7 

Leyland, 430 

Lichfield, 298-300 

Lichfield Junction, 290, 300 

Lidlington, 319 

Lifford, 158 

Lilbourne, 308 

Lily of the Valley Islands, 444 

Limerick, 134-5 

Limerick Junction, 130 

Lime Street Station, 260, 362, 

Lime Street Tunnel, 6, 7, 260, 

362 
Lindal, 439 
Linslade Tunnel, 4, 6 
Lisbellaw, 184 
Lisburn, 174 
Lisdoonvarna, 139 
Lismore (Ireland), 107-8 
Lismore (Scotland), 549 
Lisnaskea, 184 
Littlehampton, 588 
Little Malvern, 424-5 
Liverpool, 234-256 
Llanberis, 217 
Llanbister Road, 453 
Llandebie, 454 
Llandilo, 454 
Llandovery, 420, 454 
Llandrindod, 453 
Llandudno, 206 
Llanelly, 454 
Llanfihangel, 225, 457 
Llangadock, 454 
Llangammarch, 454 
Llangollen, 227 
Llangunllo, 453 
Llanrhaidr, 209 



39 



6io LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 


Llannvst, 207 


Lough Erne, 158 


Llanwnda, 219 


Foyle, 160 


Llanwrda, 454 


Gill, 154-5 


Llanwrtyd Wells, 454 


Glendalough, 149 


Llyn Coron, 203 


Inagh, 149 


Llyn Cwellyn, 216 


Mask, 148 


Lochanhead, 478 


Neagh, 172-3 


Loch Aline, 544 


Swilly, 160 


-an-Dorb, 557 


Lower Lake, Killarney, 127 


Ard, 505 


Lowestoft, 598-9 


Arkaig, 551 


Low Gill Junction, 433 


Carroh, 554 


Lowtherstown, 158 


Coruisk, 555 


Lubenham, 308 


Creran, 549 


Lucan, 133, 140 


Dochfoir, 552 


Ludlow, 420-1 


feil, 550 


Luffenham, 309 


Fyne, 539 


Lurgan, 174 


Gowan, 554 


Luss, 500 


Katrine, 496-7 


Luton, 329 


Leven, 505, 550 


Lye, 427 


Linnhe, 544^ 550 


Lytham, 436 


Lochy, 551 




Lomond, 494, 498 


M. 


Long, 501 


Maam, 148 


Menteith, 505 


Macclesfield, 415 


Ness, 551-2 


Macclesfield Tunnel, 6, 7 


of the Lowes, 455 


Machynlleth, 225, 418 


Oich, 551 


Macroom, no-n 


Portree, 555 


Madeley, 263 


Skene, 463 


Magilligan, 161 


Sunart, 545 


Maguire's Bridge, 184 


Tay, 196-7 


Mail Department, 63-76 


Vennachar, 494, 495 


Malahide, 183 


Loch Leven Castle, 505 


Mallow, 108-9 


Lockerbie, 460 


Mallow (Junction) 129 


Lodore Cascade, 449 


Malvern, Great, 424-5 


London, 332-54 


Malvern Link, 424-5 


Londonderry, 159-60 


Malvern Wells, 424-5 


London Orphan Asylum, 278 


Manchester, 363-78, 399, 415 


Longford, 156 


Mangerton, 122 


Longsight, 378 


Manorbier, 456 


Longton (Stafford), 294 


Manulla Junction, 156 


Longwood, 400 


Market Harborough, 308-9 


Lord's Bridge, 320 


Marron, 451 


Lough Ballynahinch, 149 


Marsden, 400 


Bonn, 149 


Marsh Brook, 420 


Corrib, 146-7 


Marston Gate, 329 


Dan, 196-7 


Marston Green, 273 


Derg, 157 


Maston, 405 


Derryclare, 149 


Maryborough, 131 



INDEX. 


611 


Maryburgh, 550 


Moss Side, 436 




Maryport, 452 


Mostyn, 210 




Matlock Bath, 394 


Mount Melleray Abbey, 102 


-6 


Mauchline, 471 


Moyne Abbey, 153 




Maxton, 576 


Muckross Abbey, 120 




Maxwelltown, 478 


Muirkirk, 470 




Maynooth, 141 


Muirtown, 552 




IVIeanwood, 404 


Mull, 544-5 




Medbourne Bridge, 309 


Mullingar, 141, 156 




Meeting of the Waters, 199 


Multyfarnham, 156 




Mellifont Abbey, 182 


Murthly, 561 




Melrose, 571 


Musselburgh, 535-6 




Melrose Abbey, 571 


Myrtle Grove, 100 




Menai Suspension Bridge, 204 






Merchandise Department, 82-4 


N. 




Merthyr Tydfil, 458 


Nairn, 556-7 




Methven, 563 


Nantlle, 219 




Midcalder, 506 


Nant Mill, 216 




Middleton, 419 


Nantwich, 416 




Miles Platting, 399 


Nant-y-Bwch, 458 




Millerhill, 570 


Nantyderry, 457 




Milliken, Park, 476 


Narberth, 456 




Mill Street, 129 


Narborough, 304 




Milltown Malbey, 138 


Navan, 182 




Milnthorpe, 433 


Neath, 454 




Minfford, 220 


Neen Sollars, 423 




Minshull Vernon, 262, 427 


Neston, 229 




Minsterley, 419 


Nethercleugh, 460 




Mirfield, 401 


Newarthill, 506 




Mistylaw, 476 


Newbattle Abbey, 534, 570 




Moffat, 460, 462 


New Belses, 576 




Moher, Cliffs of, 139 


Newbliss, 184 




Moira, 174 


Newbridge, 132 




Mollington, 229 


New Brighton, 257 




Monaghan Road, 184 


Newcastle, 175, 176-8 




Monasterevan, 132 


New Castleton, 577 




Monkton, 471 


New Cumnock, 469 




Monkstown, 90 


New Galloway, 478 




Monte, 141 


Newhaven, 587 




Montrose, 565 


Newmains, 506 




Moore, 428 


Newmarket, 600 




Morcutt Tunnel, 6, 7 


New Mills, 379 




Morecambe, 437-8 


Newnham Bridge, 423 




Moreton, 421 


New Park, 506 




Morley, 401 


Newport (Salop), 419 




Morley Tunnel, 6, 7, 402 


Newport (Mon.), 457-8 




Morningside, 506 


Newport Pagnell, 275 




Morton Pinkney, 310 


Newry, 174-5 




Mossley, 399 


Newspaper Department, 75 


-80 


Mossley Hill, 233 


Newstead, 575 





612 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 



Newton, 363 
Newton Bridge, 362 
Newtonmore, 559 
Newton Stewart, 478 
Newtown Butler, 184 
Newtown Stewart, 183 
Nine Stane Rig, 577 
Nisbet, 576 
Northampton, 315-7 
Northchurch Tunnel, 4, 6, 277 
Norton Bridge, 263 
Northwich, 261 
Norwich, 599 
Novelty, The, 3 
Nuneaton, 291, 304 

O. 

Oban, 542, 544, 549 
Officials, Chief, List of, 12 
Oldbury, 265, 427 
Old Cumnock, 469 
Oldham, 400 
Old North Road, 320 
Old Ormiston, 576 
Olney, 276 
Omagh, 158, 183 
Onibury, 420 
Ordsal Lane, 363 
Oswestry, 418 
Oundle, 317 
Overton, 317 
Overtown, 461 
Owen Riff River, 148 
Oxenholme, 433, 442 
Oxford, 324-7 
Oystermouth, 455 

P. 

Pabba, 554 
Paisley, 476-7 
Palnure, 479 
Pandy, 457 
Pantyffynnon, 454 
Parcel Department, 81-2 
Park, 399 
Parkgate, 229 
Parkside, 3, 362 
Park Street, 330 
Parsonstown Junction, 131 



Partick, 536 

Par ton (Cumberland), 452, 

Parton (Scotland), 478 

Passage, 91 

Pass of Kimaneigh, 11 1-2 

Patrick's Well, 134 

Patricroft, 363 

Peak Cavern, 380 

Peebles, 461 

Pelsall, 298 

Pembroke, 456 

Pembroke Dock, 456 

Penally, 456 

Pendleton, 363 

Penkridge, 264 

Penmaen Mawr, 206 

Pennington, 439 

Penny Stone, The, 437 

Penpergwwn, 457 

Penrith, 435, 451 

Penruddock, 451 

Pensarn, 208 

Penybont, 453 

Penygroes, 219 

Permanent Way, 14-17 

Perth, 562 

Peterborough, 317-8 

Pettigoe, 157 

Pevensey, 587 

Piel, 441-2 

Pitlochrie, 560 

Pinner, 279 

Pleaskin Head, 164 

Plumpton, 435 

Plymouth, 593-4 

Pneumatic Despatch Company, 

82 
Points, Signals, & Telegraphs, 

54-62 
Polesworth, 290 
Pont Aberglaslyn, 217 
Pontardulais, 454 
Pontnewydd, 457 
Pontrilas, 457 
Pontypool, 457 
Pont-y-Cysylltan, 228 
Poppleton, 405 
Portadown, 174 
Portarlington, 131 
Port Bannatyne, 539 



INDEX. 613 


Portland, 596 


Ripon Cathedral, 405 


Portmadoc, 219 


River Kelty, 494 


Port Menteith, 505 


River Moy, 153 


Portobello, 536, 570 


Roade, 275 


Portpatrick, 479 


Roade Cutting, 5 


Portree, 555 


Rob Roy's Rock, 501 


Portrush, 161 


Roby, 362 


Portsmouth, 589-90 


Rochester, 582-3 


Port Stewart, 161, 168 


Rock Battery, 258 


Potton, 320 


Rockcliffe, 459 


Poulton-le-Fylde, 437 


Rocket, The, 3, 25 


Powerscourt, 193-4 


Rockingham, 309 


Poyntzpass, 174 


Rock Lighthouse, 258 


Prees, 416 


Rock of Cashel, 130 


Prescot, 430 
Prestbury Tunnel, 6, 7 


Romford, 597 


Roscommon, 156 


Preston, 430-32, 436 


Roslin, 532-3 


Preston Brook, 428 


Rossett, 228 


Preston Brook Tunnel, 6, 7, 428 


Ross Island, 126 


Prestwick, 471 


Rosstemple, 134 


Primrose Hill Tunnel, 4, '6, 7, 281 


Rosstrevor, 175, 180 


Prince Charles's Cave, 555 


Rothesay, 538-9 




Rough Holme, 445 


Q. 


Routes to the Continent, 578-9 


Quainton Road, 323 


Royal Observatory, 359 


Queen's Bridge, 172 


Ruabon, 228 


Queenstown, 71, 74, 89 


Rugby, 274, 291, 308 




Rugeley, 290 


R. 


Rumbling Brig, 504-5 


Racks, 467 


Runcorn, 261 


Radway Green, 291 


Runcorn Bridge, 232, 261 


Railway Clearing House, 85-8 


Rush, 183 


Rainhill, 362 


Rushall, 298 


Raits Castle, 556 


Rutherford, 576 


Rasay, 555 


Rutherglen, 485-6 


Rathdrum, 199 


Ruthin, 209 


Rathfryland, 175 


Ruthven, 558 


Rathlin, 166 


Ruthwell, 467 


Rathnew, 196 


Rutland Street, 455 


Redding Junction, 577 


Rydal Mount, 445 


Renfrew, 537 




Renton, 503 


S. 


Rhewl, 209 


Saddleworth, 400 


Rhuddlan, 208 


St. Alban's, 330-2 


Rhyl, 208 


St. Anne's Hill, 99 


Rhymney Bridge, 458 


St. Asaph, 209 


Riccarton Junction, 577 


St. Boswell's, 574-5, 576 


Richmond, 355-6 


St. Catherine, 456 


Ridgmont, 319 


St. Clear's, 456 


Ringstead, 317 


St. Devereux, 457 



6i4 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN GUIDE. 


St. Helen's, 362, 430 


Sorn, 471 


St. Helen's Junction, 362 


Sorn Castle, 471 


St. John's Vale, 449 


South Hall, 539 


St. Kevin's Kitchen, 197-8 


Southampton, 595-6 


St. Leonard's-on-Sea, 580 


South Shore, 436 


St. Margaret's 536 


South Stack Lighthouse, 202-3 


St. Mary's Loch, 463 


Southwaite, 435 


St. Morgore, 456 


Southwick, 478 


St. Ninian's, 490 


Speke, 233, 260 


St. Oran's Chapel, 548 


Spital, 229 


St. Winifred's Well, 210 


Spon Lane, 265 


Salford, 363, 365 


Staffa, 545-6 


Sallins, 133 


Stafford, 263, 264, 290, 419 


Salisbury, 592 


Staleybridge, 399 


Saltney, 210 


Staleybridge Tunnels, 6, 7 


Salwick, 436 


Stamford, 310 


Sandbach, 415 


Stanbridge Ford, 328 


Sandy, 320 


Standedge Tunnel, 6, 7, 400 


Sanquhar, 469 


Standish, 430 


Saundersfoot, 456 


Standon Bridge, 263 


Scalpa, 554 


Stanley Junction, 561, 566 


Scarborough, 410-13 


Staveley, 443 


Scarvagh, 174 


Steamers, List of, 18 


Scorton, 432 


Stechford, 273 


Scotch Dyke, 577 


Steele Road, 577 


Seaton, 309 


Stepps Road, 506 


Sedburgh, 433 


Stevenson, George, 2, 3 


Selkirk, 464, 570 


Stewkley, 276 


Shankend, 577 


Stirling, 490-2, 496, 567, 569 


Shap, 433 


Stobbs, 477 


Sheerness, 583 


Stockport, 378-9 


Sherriffmuir, 492 


Stockport Tunnel, 6, 7 


Shilton, 291 


Stoke Edith, 423 


Shinnagh, 129 


Stoke Pogis, 358 


Shorncliffe, 581 


Stoke-upon-Trent, 292-3 


Shotts, 506 


Stone, 293 


Shrewsbury, 416-7-419, 420, 453 


Stonehenge, 592 


Shugborough Tunnel, 6, 7 


Stonyhurst College, 432 


Silverdale, 438 


Stony Stratford, 318 


Silver Holme, 444 


Stourbridge, 427 


Skye, 553, 555 


Stourport, 421 


Slaithwaite, 400 


Stow, 570 


Slateford, 506 


Stowhill Tunnel, 4, 6 


Slate Islands, 541 


Strabane, 158, 183 


Sleeping Saloon Carriage, 47-9 


Straffan, 133 


Sligo, 154 


Stranraer, 479 


Smedley, 363 


Stratford Junction, 597 


Smethwick, 265, 427 


Stratford-on-Avon, 289, 310-15 


Snowdon, 218-9 


Strath Carron, 554 


Solway, The, 459 


Strensall, 410 



INDEX. 



6i5 



Strome Ferry, 553 
Stronachlachar Pier, 497-i 
Struan, 559 
Studley Royal, 405 
Sudbury, 279 
Sunepol House, 545 
Sutton, 229 
Sutton Weaver, 262 
Swanbourne, 323 
Swansea, 420, 454-5 
Sweno's Stone, 557 
Symington, 461 



Tadcaster, 405 
Talk-o'-th'-Hill, 291 
Talla Island, 505 
Talley Road, 454 
Tarn worth, 290 
Tandragee, 174 
Tan-y-B\vlch, 220 
Tan-y-Grisian, 220 
Tara, Hill of, 182 
Tarbert, 136 
Tarbet, 501 
Tattenhall, 233 
Tebay Junction, 433 
Templemore, 131 
Tenbury, 421, 422 
Tenby, 456 
Thatto Heath, 430 
Theddingworth, 30S 
Threlkeld, 451 
Thirlmere Lake, 450 
Thornhill, 469 
Thorpe, 317 
Thrapston, 317 
Three Bridges, 588 
Threlkeld, 451 
Thurles, 130 
Thurso, 555 
Tile Hill, 273 
Tinwala, 477 
Tipton, 265, 297 
Tobermory, 544 
Towcester, 310, 328 
Towyn, 224 
Tram Inn, 457 
Tredegar, 458 
Trefnant, 209 



Tremadoc, 219 

Trench, 419 

Trentham, 293, 295 

Trent Valley Loop Line, 289 

Tresnish Isles, 545 

Trevil, 458 

Trevithick's Steam-Coach, 1 

Tri-composite Carriage, 49 

Tring, 276-7 

Tring Cutting, 5 

Troon, 471, 475 

Trossachs, 495-6 

Troutbeck, 443 

Trumrnery, 174 

Tunbridge, 580 

Tunbridge Wells, 580 

Tunnels, Length of, etc., 6-y 

Tunstall, 291 

Turriff, 567 

Turnberry Head, 473 

Tweed, The, 570, 571, 573 

Twickenham, 356 

Tyne Head, 570 



Uddingstone, 488 
Ullswater, 448, 451 
Ulverston, 438-9 
Underwelbeck, 443 
Upton Magna, 419 
Uriconium, 417 
Uttoxeter, 295 



Valentia, 127-9 
Vauxhall, 591 
Verney Junction, 323, 327 
Voyage from Dublin to Holy- 
head, 200 

W. 
Waggon Works, Earlestgwn 

Junction, 53 
Walcot, 419 
W r all, 298 

Wallace's Cave, 466 
Wallace's Leap, 465 
Wallace's Seat, 503 
Wall of Antoninus, 489, 537 
Walsall, 297-8 



Wamphray, 460, 464 

Wansford, 317 

Wansford Tunnel, 6, 7 

Wapping (Liverpool), 260 

Wappingham, 328 

Warrenpoint, 175 

Warrington, 428-9 

Warton, 436 

Warwick, 286-9 

Wasperton, 315 

Waterhead. 445-6 

Waterloo Station (Liverpool) 

249, 260 
Watford, 278, 330 
Watford Tunnel, 4, 6, 278 
Waverton, 233 
Waverton Tunnel, 6, 7, 
Wavertree, 233 
Weaste, 363 
Wednesbury, 297 
Wednesfield Heath Tunnel, 6, 7 
Weedon, 275 
Welford, 308 
Wellingborough, 317 
Wellington (Shropshire), 419 
Welshampton, 418 
Welshpool, 418, 419 
Wem, 416 
Westbury, 419 
Westcalder, 506 
Weston, 293 
Westhanger, 581 
West Linton, 577 
Westport, 151-3 
Whaley Bridge, 379 
Whifflet, 506 
Whitby, 413-4 
Whitchurch, 416, 41S 
Whitehaven, 452 
Whitland, 456 
Whitmore, 263 
Whittington, 418 
Wichnor, 300 
Wick, 555 

Wick low, Tour through. 190-9 
Wigan, 429, 430 
Willaston, 416 



Willesden Junction, 279-81 

Willington, 301 

Wilmslow, 415 

Wimbledon, 591 

Winchelsea, 581 

Winchester, 594-5 

Winchnor, 300 

Windermere, 443 

Windsor Castle, 357 

Winsford, 261, 262, 427 

Winslow, 323, 327 

Winwick, 429 

Wishaw, 461 

Withington, 423 

Woking, 591 

Woburn Sands, 318 

Wolvercott Tunnel, 6, 7 

Wolverhampton, 264 

Wolverton, 275 

Wolverton Carriage Works, 43 

Wooden Bridge, 199 

Woodlawn, 142 

Woofferton, 421, 422 

Woolwich, 360 

Worcester, 425-6 

Wooton Underwood, 330 

Workington, 451-2 
! Workington Bridge, 451 
I Worleston, 233 

Wortley, 402 

Wray Green, 436 

Wreay, 435 

Wrenbury, 416 

Wrexham, 228 

Wroxeter, 417 

Wyre Forest, 423 

Y. 

Yardley Chase, 317 
Yel vert oft, 308 
Yeoford Junction, 593 
Ynys-las, 225 
Yockleton, 419 
York, 405-10 
Yorton, 416 
Youghal, 99, 100 



Hazell, Watson, and Viney, Printers, London and Aylesbury. 



INDEX TO ADVERTISEMENTS. 





PAGE 




PAGE 


Hotels : — 




Hotels, continued 




Bangor 


. • 636 


Kilkee 


, . 645 


Belfast 


. • 637 


Killarney . 


. 642 


Bethesda . 


. . 636 


Leamington 


645-6-7 


Beddgelert . 


. 639 


Liverpool • 


632-45 


Bettws-y-Coed 


. . 638 


Llanberis , 


. 648 


Buxton 


• 637 


Llandudno . « 


. 649 


Caernarvon 


639.40 


London 


. 63I, 650 


Chester 


. 641 


Newry . , 


. 65O 


Colwyn Bay 


.641-2 


Oxford 


. 65O 


Conway 


. 641 


Portrash . 4 


• 6SO 


Cork . 


• 643 


Rosstrevor Quay 


• 635 


Dublin 


•643-4 


Stratford-on-Avo 


n . 651 


Glasgow 


. 638 


Warrington 


. 651 


Greenore . 


. 634 


Warwick . • 


. 651 


Holyhead . 


• 633 






Miscellaneous, on a 


iloureJ pages \ 


and . . 628, 


630, 652-6 


Railway Companies 




• • 


626-30 


Steamboat Arrange 


ments . 


. 


618-28 


Tourist Agents . 






657-8-9 



40 



618 ADVERTISEMENTS. 

Shortest, Quickest, and Safest Route to America. 

"GUION LINE" 

OF 

UNITED STATES MAIL STEAMERS FOR 
NEW YORK, 

Forwarding Passengers to all parts of the UNITED STATES 
and CANADA, at Low Rates. 



The Liverpool and Great Western Company's full-powered 
Steamers. 



Idaho 
Nevada .. 
Wisconsin 
Wyoming 
Nebraska 



3,131 tons. I Manhattan 

3,200 „ Minnesota 

3,000 ,, Montana 

3,000 ,, Dakota .. 

3,326 „ California 



2,869 tons. 
2,887 „ 
3.5oo „ 
3oQO „ 
3>3°° „ 



Utah . . . . . . 3,400 tons. 

Sailing from Liverpool every Wednesday, calling at Queenstown the 
following day for Passengers. 

CABIN PASSAGE TO NEW YORK.— Fifteen, Seven- 
teen, and Twenty Guineas each Berth, according to the size, 
situation, and accommodation of the State-rooms, all having the 
same privileges in the Saloon in regard to meals and attendance. 
Children under twelve years Half-fare, and Infants Free. 

Return Tickets issued as low as by any other first-class line. 

Saloon, and all Cabin Sleeping Berths, are on the main deck, and not 
below, which makes them very desirable for travellers. 

Some of the Steamers have a limited number of Berths for Intermediate, 
at £9 9s. 

Steerage Passage to New York, Boston, Portland, Baltimore, or 
Quebec, Six Guineas, including an unlimited supply of provisions, cooked 
and served up by the company's servants. 

An experienced Surgeon is attached to each Steamer ; also Cabin and 
Steerage Stewardesses. 

Drafts for^i and upwards issued on Williams and Guion, 29, Broadway, 
New York ; also Tickets for Passages from New York to Liverpool. 

Apply, in New York, to Williams and Guion ; in Paris, to J. M. Currie, 
7, Rue Scribe ; in London, to Norton and Shaw, 7, Garrick Street, W.C. 
and Euston Square, N.W.; in Belfast, to William Langtry, 52, Waring 
Street ; in Dublin, to Wells and Holohan, or Peter Jones and Sons, Eden 
Quay ; in Cork, to MacDonnel Brothers ; in Queenstown, to James 
Scott and Co. ; and in LIVERPOOL to 

GUION AND CO., 
25, WATER STREET, 115, WATERLOO ROAD, 
and 11, RUMFORD STREET, 

P. S. Agents of this Line will be found in almost every town in the 
kingdom. 



AD VER TISEMENTS. 



619 



ALLAN ROYAL MAIL LINE. 




SHORTEST OCEAN PASSAGE 

TO 

CANADA AND THE DNITED STATES. 



ss. 


Sardinian. 


SS. 


Prussian. 


ss. 


North American 


ss. 


Circassian. 


SS. 


Austrian. 


SS. 


Corinthian. 


ss. 


Canadian. 


ss. 


Nestorian. 


SS. 


Manitoban. 


ss. 


Polynesian. 


ss. 


Peruvian. 


SS. 


Phoenician. 


ss. 


Sarmatian. 


SS. 


Moravian. 


SS. 


Waldensian. 


ss. 


Caspian. 


SS. 


Hibernian. 


SS. 


Saint Patrick. 


ss. 


Scandinavian. 


ss. 


Nova Scotian. 







One of the above full-powered Mail Steamers will be despatched from 

LIVERPOOL TO QUEBEC 

Every Tuesday and Thursday in Summer, 

LIVERPOOL TO PORTLAND 

Every Tuesday and Thursday in Winter, 

LIVERPOOL TO HALIFAX, NORFOLK, 
AND BALTIMORE, 

Every alternate Tuesday, forwarding Passengers on easy terms to all parts of 

CANADA AND THE UNITED STATES. 

The Steamers of this Line are replete with every comfort 

and modern appliance. 

For further particulars apply to Allan, Brothers, and Co., Alexandra 
Buildings, James Street, Liverpool, or to any of the authorised agents of this 
well-known and favourite line, to be found in almost every town and village 
in the kingdom, from whom intending passengers are advised to buy passage 
tickets. 



620 



AD VER TISEMENTS. 




City of Antwerp 
City of Berlin 
City of Bristol 
City of Brooklyn 
City of Brussels 
City of Chester 
City of Durham 




City of Limerick 
City of London 
City of Montreal 
City of New York 
City of Paris 
City of Richmond 



The Liverpool, New York, and Philadelphia Steamship Company's Royal 
Mail Steamers are appointed to sail from 



Tuesdays and Thursdays, and from 

NEW YORK TO LIVERPOOL 

Thursdays and Saturdays, 

Calling at Queenstown (Ireland) to land and embark her 
Majesty's Mails and Passengers. 

BATES OF PASSAGE AND GENEEAL INFORMATION. 

SALOON PASSAGE : Twelve Guineas, Fifteen Guineas, and Eight- 
een Guineas, according to the accommodation, all enjoying eaual privileges. 
STEERAGE PASSAGE to New York includes an unlimited supply 
of cooked provisions, served out by the Company's Stewards. 
Passengers booked to all parts of the United States and Dominion of Canada 
at low rates. 

Passengers by this line can also be forwarded to San Francisco (California), 
India, China, and Japan, by Great Pacific Railway and Mail Steamship Com- 
pany, at through rates. 

( An experienced Surgeon is attached to each steamer. No charge for medi- 
cine or attendance. 

The steamers of this old-established line are fitted and replete with every 
comfort: ladies' boudoirs, gentlemen's smoking-rooms, bath-rooms, etc., for 
the comfort and convenience of passengers. The state-rooms are light and 
airy. They afford the best accommodation for all classes of passengers, and 
are amongst the largest and fastest steamers afloat. 

Every Inf ovulation given and Tickets issued by the following Agents of 
the Company : — 

New York, John G. Dale, at the Company's Offices, 15, Broadway ; Bos- 
ton, M. S. Creagh, at the Company's Offices, 102, State Street ; Philadel- 
phia, O'Donnell and Faulk, at the Companv's Offices, 411, Chesnut Street; 
Chicago, F. C. Brown, at the Company's Offices, 86, South Market Street ; 
Paris, H. Keene, at the Company's Offices, 9, Rue Scribe ; London, Fives 
and Allen, 61, King William Street; Manchester, A. W. Wilson, at the 
Company's Offices, 38, Fountain Street ; Glasgow, Alexander Malcolm , Jun., 
at the Company's Offices, 40, St. Enoch Square ; Queenstown, C. and W. D. 
Seymour and Co. ; Belfast, John McKee, 42 ?.nd 43, Donegal Quay ; or by 

WILLIAM INMAN, 

At the Head Offices of the Company, 62, 63, 64. and 65, Tower Buildings 
South, 22, Water Street, LIVERPOOL. 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 621 

CUNARD LINE. 

g With the view of diminishing the chances of collision, the steamers of this 
line take a specified course for all seasons of the year. 

On the outward passage from Queenstown to New York or Boston, cross- 
ing meridian of 50 at 43 Lat. , or northing to the north of 43. On the homeward 
passage crossing the meridian 50 at 42 Lat., or northing to the north of 42. 

THE BRITISH & NORTH AMERICAN ROYAL MAIL STEAMERS, 




Appointed by her Majesty's Postmaster-General to sail every Saturday for 
New York, direct, and every Tuesday for New York and (or) Boston. 

Rates of Cabin Passage-Money : 15 Guineas, 17 Guineas, and 21 Guineas, 
according to the accommodation. Return Tickets (available for Six Months) 
30 Guineas. 

Rates of Passage -money by the Steamers carrying no Steerage Passengers: 
Chief Cabin, Twenty-six Pounds ; Second Cabin, Eighteen Pounds. Return 
Tickets (available for Six Months) : Chief Cabin, Forty-five Pounds. Children 
between two and twelve years half-fare. 
These rates include stewards' fee and provisions, but without wines or 

liquors, which can be obtained on board. 

Passengers booked through to San Francisco, China, Japan, India, New 

Zealand, and Australia, by Pacific Railway and Mail Steamers. 

DOGS not taken on any terms. 

To prevent disappointment or difficulty, passengers are respectfully in- 
formed that packages of merchandise will not be allowed to be shipped as 
luggage, or with their luggage. 

All cabin passengers are allowed twenty cubic feet of personal luggage, 
free of freight, but the agents do not guarantee to reserve room for more than 
that quantity ; and passengers will be charged freight on their personal 
luggage, when it exceeds half a ton measurement. 

The passengers and goods for New York are intended to be landed at 
Jersey City, within the jurisdiction of the Custom-house of New York. 

Drafts issued on New York for sums not exceeding ,£10, free of charge. 



Apply at the Company's Office, New York, to Charles G. Francklyn, 
Agent ; at the Company's Office, Boston, to James Alexander, Agent ; in 
Havre, to Burns and MacIver, Quai d'Orleans ; in Paris, to Burns and 
MacIver, 12, Place de la Bourse ; in London, to William Cunard, 6, St. 
Helen's Place, Bishopsgate Street, and 28, Pall Mall, S.W. ; in Dundee, to 
G. and J. Burns, ii, Panmure Street ; in Glasgow, to G. and J. Burns, 30, 
Jamaica Street ; in Belfast, to A. G. S. McCulloch and Son ; in Queens- 
town, to D. and C. MacIver; or in Liverpool to 

D. and C. MacIver, 8, Water Street. 



622 AD VER T IS E ME NTS. 



NATION AL LINE TO HEW YORK. 

NOTICE. 

This company takes the risk of insurance (up to ,£100,000) 
on each of its vessels, thus giving passengers the best possible 
guarantee for safety and avoidance of danger at sea. 

The most southerly route has always been adopted by this 
company to avoid ice and headlands. 



LARGEST STEAMERS AFLOAT. 



One of the magnificent full-powered Iron Screw Steamships, 



Steamships. Tons. 

Egypt 5,064 

Spain 4,900 

Italy 4,302 

France 3,571 

Canada 3,500 

Greece 3, 500 



Steamships. Tons. 

England 4,900 

The Queen 4,441 

Holland 3,847 

Erin 3,956 

Helvetia 3,974 

Denmark 3,7 2 3 

Will sail from Liverpool to New York every Wednesday, from Queenstown 
every Thursday, and from London every Wednesday. 

The Saloon accommodation is unsurpassed — the state-rooms being un- 
usually large, and open off the saloons situated in poop on deck. 

Rate of Passage, 12, 15, and 17 Guineas, according to accommodation in 
state-room — all having same privilege in saloon. Return Tickets, twenty- 
four Guineas. 

The COMFORT of STEERAGE PASSENGERS specially 
considered — the accommodation being unequalled for space, 
light, and ventilation. 

> Rates of Passage — on reduced terms — include abundance of fresh pro- 
visions served up, cooked by company's servants. 

Medical attendance free. 

Stewardesses in attendance on female steerage passengers. 

Steerage passengers forwarded to Quebec, Boston, Philadelphia, Baltimore, 
San Francisco, and all the inland towns of United States and Canada on 
favourable terms. 

Passengers booked through to Australia, New Zealand, China, and Japan. 

For freight or passage apply to 

THE NATIONAL STEAMSHIP COMPANY (Limited), 

23, Water Street, Liverpool, or to their Agents, 
N. and J. Cummins and Bros., Queenstown. 

F. W. J. Hurst, 69, Broadway, New York. 

Smith, Sundius, and Co., 33, Gracechurch Street, London. 

W. S. Rowland, 57, Charing Cross, London. 

Express and Agency Co. (Limited), 5, Rue Scribe, Paris. 

G. Odinet and Co., Havre. 



A D VER TISEMENTS. 



623 



WHITE STAR LINE. 



UNITED STATES MAIL STEAMEES. 



Tons. 

Oceanic - 3,707 
Baltic- - 3,707 
Republic - 3,707 
Adriatic - 3,888 
Celtic - 3,888 



Captains. 
J. W. Jennings. 
H. W. Hewitt. 
B. Gleadell. 
Hamilton Perry. 
W. W. Kiddle. 



Tons. 
Gaelic - 2,651 
Belgic - 2,651 
Britannic 5,004 
Germanic 5,004 



Captains. 
H. Parsell. 
J. Metcalfe. 
W. H. Thompson. 
C. W. Kennedy. 



The first-class, full-powered, Iron Screw Steamships of this Line sail 
from 

Liverpool for New York every Thursday, 

calling at Queenstown on Friday, returning 

From New York every Saturday, 

carrying the United States mails. 

These splendid steamships, new and uniform in model and arrangements, 
have been specially designed to attain the highest possible regularity and 
speed, and to insure the utmost comfort and convenience to passengers. 

The cabin accommodation — comprising ladies' private saloons, com- 
modious smoke rooms, extensive libraries, pianos, bath rooms, instant 
communication with the stewards by means of electric bells, etc. — is unsur- 
passed for elegance, completeness, and comfort. 

The saloons will be found to afford unusual space, the whole breadth of 
the ships being devoted to this purpose ; they are light, lofty, well ventilated, 
and handsomely furnished, whilst the comfort of passengers in the colder 
portions of the year is amply provided for by an extensive arrangement of 
hot water pipes and capacious fire grates. Being placed amidships, the 
saloons are removed from, the noise and motion experienced in the after 
fart of the vessel. 

These vessels are fitted to carry a limited number of steerage passengers, 
the accommodation being of the very highest order, and the lighting, ven- 
tilating, warming, and sanitary arrangements are unsurpassed in any 
vessel afloat. 

The vessels are constructed in seven water-tight compartments, and every 
precaution is taken to insure safety. 

For full particulars of passages, rates, etc., etc., apply to 

ISMAY, IMRIE, AND CO., 

34, Leadenhall Street, London, E.C., 
io, Water Street, Liverpool. 

New York Office, 19, Broadway, R. J. Cortis, Agent ; 
Chicago Office, 96, South Clarke Street, Alfred Lagergren, 
Agent. 



624 ADVERTISEMENTS. 

"AN CHOR" LI NE. 

REGULAR STEAM COMMUNICATION 
BETWEEN GREAT BRITAIN AND THE UNITED STATES, NEW 
BRUNSWICK, NOVA SCOTIA, FRANCE, PORTUGAL, SPAIN, 
ITALY, SICILY, EGYPT, AND THE ADRIATIC. 

ATLANTIC SERVICE. 

Steamers leave Glasgow forNEW York (calling at Moville, Lough Foyle, 
to embark Passengers only) every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. 

From New York for Glasgow every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. 

From Glasgow, Liverpool, and London, for Halifax, N.S., and St. 
John, N.B., once a month from March till October. 

Rates of Passage for New York— Saloon Cabin, Saturday's Steamers, 
£x6 16s. and £17 17s. ; Thursday's Steamers, £12 12s. and £13 13s., ac- 
cording to accommodation and situation of berths. Return Tickets, Twenty- 
Two and Twenty-Four Guineas. For Halifax, N.S., and St. John, N.B. — 
Saloon cabin, ^13 13s., and Tuesday's Steamers, £14. 14s. and ,£15 15s; 
MEDITERRANEAN SERVICE. 

Steamers leave Glasgow about every Ten Days for Lisbon, Gibraltar, 
Genoa, Leghorn, Naples, Messina, and Palermo ; Fortnightly for 
Trieste and Venice ; and Monthly for Algiers, vTunis, Malta, and 
Alexandria. Cabin Fares to Lisbon, £6 6s. ; Gibraltar, £S 8s. ; Genoa, 
£12 12s. ; Leghorn, £x-$ 13s. ; Naples, Messina, Catania, and Palermo, .£14 
14s. ; Trieste and Venice, ,£16 16s. ; Algiers, £10 10s. ; Tunis and Malta, 
£x2 12s. ; Alexandria, .£15 15s. Passengers are found in a liberal table, and 
all necessaries, except wine and liquors, which can be had on board at 
moderate prices. No steward's fee. 

MEDITERRANEAN AND ATLANTIC SERVICE. 

Steamers are despatched from Genoa, Leghorn, Naples, Messina, 
Palermo, Marseilles, and Gibraltar, for New York, once a fort- 
night ; and from Trieste and Venice, for New York, once a month. 
Steamers also leave Malaga, Almeria, Valencia, and Denia, for New 
York, as inducement offers. Fares from Gibraltar, ,£16 16s. ; from Mar- 
seilles, Genoa, Leghorn, Naples, Messina, Palermo, Trieste, and Venice, £21 ; 
from Malaga, Almeria, Valencia, and Denia, ,£18 18s. Passengers are found 
in a liberal table, and all necessaries, except wine and liquors, which can 
be had on board at moderate prices. No steward's fee. 

Apply to HENDERSON BROTHERS, Queenstown, Londonderry, 7, 
Bowling Green, New- York ; Chicago ; Union Bank Buildings, Dundee ; 
Drontheim, and Christiania, Norway ; Gothenburg, Sweden ; 17, Water 
Street, Liverpool; 5, East India Avenue, Leadenhall Street, London, E.C. ; 
Steinmann and Ludwig, Antwerp; Morris and Co., and A.Behrens, Ham- 
burg; C. Clark and Co., Bordeaux; Rosenkilde Brothers, Christianssand; 
Lowe Brothers, Civita Vecchia ; William Miller, Florence and Leg- 
horn ; Charles Figoli, Genoa; James Glasgow and Co., Gibraltar; 
Mascarenhas and Co., Lisbon ; Thomas MacCulloch and Son, Malaga ; 
Wm. Jaffray, Almeria; Dart and Co., Valencia and Denia ; O. F. Goll- 
cher, Malta; Jos. Kuhlman, Algiers; Cesar Foa, Tunis ; Fleming and 
Co., Alexandria; Jules Frisch, Marseilles; Henry John Ross and F. 
Tagliavia and Co., Messina; Holme and Co., Naples; Peter Tagliavia, 
Palermo ; MacBean and Co., Rome ; S. R. Forbes, Rome ; C H. Vander- 
hoof, Rome ; De Waal and Voorrips, Rotterdam ; Greenham and Al- 
lodi, Trieste ; Charles D. Milesi, Venice ; or to 

HENDERSON BROTHERS, 
Union Street, Glasgow. 



AD VER TISEMENTS. 625 

FLEETWOOD TO BELFAST 

AND THE NORTH OF IRELAND, 

EVERY EVENING (SUNDAYS EXCEPTED), 

In connection with the Lancashire and Yorkshire and London 
and North- Western Railways. 

THE NORTH LANCASHIRE STEAM NAVIGA- 
TION COMPANY'S Royal Mail Steam Ships "Thomas 
Dugdale" (new steamer), " Princess of Wales," "Prince 
Arthur," or " Royal Consort," leave 

FLEETWOOD FOR BELFAST 
every evening (Sundays excepted), at or after 7.30 p.m. after 
arrival of trains from London, Birmingham, Hull, Newcastle, 
Bradford, Leeds, Liverpool, Manchester, Preston, and all parts 
of the kingdom, returning from 

BELFAST TO FLEETWOOD 
every evening (Sundays excepted), at 7.45 p.m., arriving in 
Fleetwood in time for early morning trains to the above places. 
When the packet is late on arrival at Fleetwood special trains 
are despatched to Preston, Manchester, Liverpool, etc., for the 
accommodation of the passengers. 

FARES.— Saloon, 12s. 6d.; Steerage, 5s.; Return Tickets 
(available for One Month), Saloon, 21s. ; Steerage, 8s. 6d. 
Through Tickets, Single and Return, are also issued from all the 
principal stations of the London and North- Western, Lancashire 
and Yorkshire, North-Eastern, Great Western, Great Northern, and 
Manchester, Sheffield, and Lincolnshire Railway Companies, to 
Belfast, and vice versa. Return Tickets are available for one month. 

SPECIAL TOURISTS* TICKETS 
are issued during the Summer Season, via the Fleetwood Route, 
whereby Tourists may visit all places of interest in the North of Ire- 
land and Dublin. For particulars see the Company's Book of 
Tourists' Arrangements. 

At Fleetwood the railway trains run alongside the steamers, and 
passengers' luggage is carried from the train at the quay on board 

FREE OF CHARGE. 

Fleetwood is unrivalled as a steam packet station for the north of 
Ireland, and the unexampled regularity with which the Belfast Line 
of Steamers have made the passage between the two ports for more 
than thirty years, without the loss of a single life, is probably without 
a parallel in steamboat service, and has made this route the most 
popular, as it is certainly the most expeditious AND DESIRABLE, 
for Passengers, Goods, and Merchandise, between the great centres 
of commerce in England and the North and North- West of Ireland. 

For further information see Bradshaw's Guide, page 304 ; or 
apply at any of the stations of the Railway Companies before named ; 
HENDERSON and CO., Belfast ; or to 

THOS. H. CARR, Fleetwood. 



626 AD VER T1SEMENTS. 

SHORTEST SEA ROUTE 

BETWEEN 

GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND, 

Vid LARNE AND STRANRAER. 



Daily Sailings (Sundays excepted). 
SEA AND LOCH PASSAGE UNDER THREE HOURS. 



Trains go alongside the Steamers at Larne and Stranraer. 

Through Tickets issued at Belfast, Larne, Londonderry, etc., 
to the principal Stations in England and Scotland, and vice versa. 

For full particulars as to fares, etc., see the London and 
North-Western and Caledonian Railway Companies' Guides and 
Tourist Programmes, Bradshaw, and other Guides ; or apply to 
Edward J. Cotton, General Manager, Belfast and Northern 
Counties Railway, Belfast. 

BELFAST & NORTHERN COUNTIES 
RAILWAY. 



CHANT'S CAUSEWAY 

AND 

NORTH OF IRELAND SCENERY. 



Tourist Arrangements for Londonderry, Portrush, Giant's 
Causeway, Antrim Coast, Shane's Castle on Lough Neagh, 
Antrim (for round tower, the most perfect in Ireland), Larne, 
and Belfast. 

For information as to tourist fares and arrangements from 
England and Scotland, see Programmes of the principal English 
and Scotch Railway Companies, or apply to Edward J. Cotton, 
General Manager, Belfast and Northern Counties Railway, 
Belfast. 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 627 

Isle of Man Steam-Packet Company. 

SEASON ARRANGEMENTS, 1875. 

The Isle of Man Company's Royal Mail Steamers "King 
Orry," 1,028 tons, 550-horse power; "Tynwald," 696 tons, 
500-horse power; "Douglas," 609 tons, 350-horse power; 
"Snaefell," 607 tons, 350-horse power; or other first-class ves- 
sels, ply daily (Sundays excepted), from 23rd May to 30th Sep- 
tember, from Prince's Landing-stage, Liverpool, to Douglas, at I 
afternoon ; returning from Douglas each week-day at 8 morning 
during July and August, and in June and September at 9 morning. 

During June, July, August, and September a steamer leaves 
Liverpool for Ramsey direct each Monday at noon, and via 
Douglas every Friday at 1 afternoon, returning from Ramsey to 
Liverpool direct on Saturdays. 

Tourists' Tickets can be obtained at any of the principal 
railway-stations in England. 

For further information, apply to Thomas Orford and Son, 
22, Water Street, Liverpool ; or John J. Goldsmith, Douglas. 
Douglas, April, 1875. 

ISLE OF MAN RAILWAYS. 

The Isle of Man Railways offer the best and most convenient 
mode of access to all the principal places of interest and attraction 
in the Isle of Man. 

These Railways have been constructed for the express purpose 
of conveying the large number of excursionists who annually visit 
the Island. 

Trains run to and from Douglas to the undermentioned places 
daily, at short intervals, at cheap fares : 

Stations to Book to. Places of A ttractioiu 



Peel 



St. John's . 
Union Mills , 
Port Soderick 

Ballasalia . 

Castletown • 

Port St. Mary 

Port Erin 



!Peel Castle. 
Nairbyl Bay. 
Glenmaye Waterfall. 
( Glen Helen. 
\ Rhenass Waterfall. 

Kirk Braddan Church, 
f Port Soderick Bay. 
( Crogga Glen. 
i Rushen Abbey. 
( LangnessPoint. 

{King William's College. 
Castletown. 
Castle Rushen. 
J Port St. Mary. 
( The Chasms. 

{Port Erin. 
Bradda Head. 
Calf of Man. 



628 ADVERTISEMENTS. 

GLASGOW AND THE HIGHLANDS. 
Royal Eoute, via Crinan and Caledonian Canals. 

Stcame-s sail during the season for Oban, Fort William, Inverness, Staffa, 
Iona, Glencoe, Tobermory, Portree, Gairloch, Ullapool, Lochinvar, and 
Storroway ; affording tourists an opportunity of visiting the magnificent 
scenery of Glencoe, the Coolin Hills, Loch Coruisk, Lochmaree, and the 
famed Islands of Staffa and Iona. 

Time-bill, with map and tourist fares, free by post, on application to 
DAVID HUTCHESON and Co., no, Hope Street, Glasgow. 

FFESTINIOG RAILWAY. 



Trains are run in connection with the Cambrian Railway at 
Minfford Junction ; by which arrangement passengers are able 
to go up the line, giving ample time to visit the slate quarries 
at the upper terminus, Duffws ; or to go on by the Ffestiniog 
and Blaenan Railway to the village of Ffestiniog, three miles 
distant ; and return in time to catch the Cambrian Railway at 
Minfford Junction for Barmouth, Dolgelly, and Aberystwyth, 
or Criccieth, Pwllheli, and Avonwen Junction for the London 
and North- Western Railway for Caernarvon. 

There are twelve trains run daily, six up and six down. 

First, second, and third class carriages are run by all 
trains, return tickets being issued for the same. 

Open first class carriages are run by every train, by which 
passengers are able to command an extensive view of some of 
the most beautiful scenery in North Wales. 

GOUT and RHEUMATISM.— The excruciating 
pain of gout or rheumatism is quickly relieved and cured in a few 
days by that celebrated medicine, BLAIR'S GOUT and RHEUMATIC 
PILLS. 

They require no restraint of diet or confinement during their use, and are 
certain to prevent the disease attacking any vital part. 

Sold by all medicine vendors, at is. i£d. and 2s. cd. per box, or obtained 
through any chemist. 

BILIOUS and Liver Complaints, Indigestion, Sick 
Headache, Loss of Appetite, Drowsiness, Giddiness, Spasms, and all 
Disorders of the Stomach and Bowels are quickly removed by that well- 
known remedy, FRAMPTON'S PILLS OF HEALTH. 

They unite the recommendation of a mild operation with the most success- 
ful effect ; and where an aperient is required nothing can be better adapted. 
Sold by all medicine vendors, at is. i£d. and 2s. od. per box, or obtained 
through any chemist. 



AD VER TI SEME NTS. 629 

Midland Great Western Eailway 
of Ireland. 



THE DIRECT ROUTE FROM DUBLIN 

TO THE 

WEST AND NORTH-WEST OF IRELAND, 

affording cheap and expeditious conveyance for 

PASSENGERS, PARCELS, AND GOODS 

to Athenry, Athlone, Ballina, Ballaghaderrin, Boyle, Bailie- 
borough, Ballinasloe, Ballinrobe, Castlebar, Carrick-on- Shannon, 
Clara, Clifden, Cavan, Claremorris, Crossdonry, Ennis, Gort, 
Galway, Lisdoonvarna, Longford, Loughrea, Mo: i:e, Mullingar, 
Roscommon, Sligo, Swinford, Tuam, Westport, and other im- 
portant towns. 

Also forming connections with the following railways, viz. : — 

At Athenry, with the Athenry and Ennis, and Athenry and 
Tuam Companies. 

At Athlone and Clara, with the Great Southern and 
Western Company. 

At Cavan, with the Irish North- Western and Ulster 
Companies. 

And at Navan, with the Northern Company. 



DURING THE SUMMER SEASON 

CHEAP CIRCULAR TOURIST TICKETS 

Are issued at the principal stations on the London and North- 
Western and other Railways in England and Scotland to Galway, 
Westport, Ballina, or Sligo ; also from Broad stone station, 
Dublin, enabling the holders to visit the romantic district of 
Connemara, the beautiful Lakes of Kylemore and Glen- 
dalough, Killery Bay, and Sal Ruck Pass ; the grand 
ocean cliffs of Achill and Erris ; the famed spas of Lisdoon- 
varna, and the popular watering-places of Kilkee and Miltown 
Malbay. on the coast of Clare ; and many other interesting 
localities in the neighbourhood of Sligo, Ballina, Westport, and 
Galway. 

%* Refer to Tourist Programmes of the respective railway and 
steam companies, or apply to 

J. E. WARD, Manager. 

Broadstone, Terminus, Dublin, May 1875. 



630 ADVERTISEMENTS. 

IRISH NORTH-WESTERN 
RAILWAY. 



THE ROYAL MAIL ROUTE 

Between Londonderry (the Maiden City) and Dublin, vid 
Enniskillen, 

The Route for Lough Erne, Bundoran, Belleek, 
Sligo, the Donegal Highlands, etc. 

For particulars of Tourist Arrangements, see Programmes, 
which can be had on application at the various stations, or from 

HENRY PLEWS, Manager. 
Enniskillen. 



SPECIALITIES FOR TRAVELLERS AND OTHERS. 



EDWAED TANjSTS 

PAPER COLLARS AND CUFFS 

Of the best make, for Ladies and Gentlemen. 

SAMPLES AND ILLUSTRATED PRICE LIST 

SENT FOR SIX STAMPS. 



EDWARD TANN, 308, High Holborn, W.C. 
ARMSTRONG & WEBSTER, 

WINE AND SPIRIT MERCHANTS, 

75, GREAT TOWER STREET, LONDON, E.C. 

Samples and Prices sent on application. 

Stores Shipped Free of Duty. 



AD VER TISEMENTS. 



631 



LONDON & NORTH-WESTERN RAILWAY 
COMPANY. 




These hotels are situated one on each side of the entrance to 

Euston station. 

The Porters attend the Arrival of the Trains, 



632 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 



LONDON & 



NORTH-WESTERN 
COMPANY. 



RAILWAY 



£ s 



1 > 
_§3 



rt C2 










IMDOtf & IORTH-WESTEM HOTEL, 

Z/^f.5 STREET, LIVERPOOL. 



The hotel is connected with the arrival and departure platforms 
of the London and North- Western Railway Company's terminal 
passenger station at Lime Street, Liverpool. 



AD VERTISEMENTS. 



633 



LONDON & NORTH-WESTERN RAILWAY 
COMPANY. 




This hotel adjoin* Ike Holyhead terminus, and is very convenient 
for passengers travelling between England and Ireland. 



4* 



634 



AD VER TISEMENTS. 



LONDON & NORTH-WESTERN RAILWAY 
COMPANY. 




This hotel adjoins the Greenore terminus, and is very con- 
venient for passengers travelling between England and Ireland 
by this route. 



AD VER TISEMENTS. 



635 



THE M0U3&NK HOTEL 













AND 






, 


'J! ;':. 


,;l!!j 




: -vv: v ^ : ;'"- 1 : ■ '^BH 


If Hill 


• 










>-«l 


rlSBS 










THE WOODSJCDE HOTEL; 

FOR. TARIFF APPLY TO THE MANAGER. 



6*6 ADVERTISEMENTS. 



BANGOR, NORTH WALES. 



BRITISH HOTEL., 

NEAR THE STATION. 

Handsome Coffee Room and Private Sitting Room. 

Billiard Soom, witii Two New Tables. 

'Bus meets all the Day Trains, and is Free to and from the Hotel. 

L. H. PHILLIPS, Proprietor. 
Posting and Livery Stables. 

BANGOR, NORTH WALES. 

THE CASTLE HOTEL 

is situated midway between the Menai and Tubular Bridges and 
the far-famed Penrhyn Slate Quarries at Bethesda. 

An Omnibus meets every Train. 
A Coach to and from Bettys-y-Cced Daily during the Season, 

In connection with the London and North-Western Railway. 

JOHN DENHAM, Proprietor. 

BANGOR, NORTH WALES. 



RAILWAY HOTEL, 

jfamilp, Commercial, and 39og(ttns; l?ouge, 

Nearest the Station, Bangor. 

FRED. JONES, Proprietor. 

DOUGLAS ARMS HOTEL, 

BETHESDA, NORTH WALES. 



Five Minutes' Walk to the Penrhyn Slate Quarries. 
Boats on Lake Ogwen. 

OMNIBUS TO AND FBOM THE RAILWAY STATION; 

Bangor. 
T. AND H. BUCKLAND, Proprietors. 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 637 

MANTELL'S 

EGLINTON AND WINTON HOTEL, 

HIGH STREET, BELFAST. 

FIRST-CLASS FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL ACCOMMODATION. 

Busses attend arrival and departure of all trains and steamers. 

Terms moderate. 



BUXTON. 



PAJLlAGjEi JcjCO x jG Jd 



This magnificent hotel is in close proximity to the railway 
stations, baths, public gardens, etc., and commands extensive 
views of the surrounding country. The public rooms are very 
spacious and elegantly furnished, and replete with every conve- 
nience. 

ALAN SADLILANDS, Manager. 

GEORGE HOTEL, BUXTON, 

FOR FAMILIES AND GENTLEMEN. 



This hotel, pleasantly situated near the railway stations, and 
close to the Baths and Pavilion Gardens, is now enlarged and 
much improved, and will be found replete with every comfort. 

Bedrooms and Rooms en suite on the Ground Level. Billiards. 

MRS. HALL (late Miss Lees), Proprietress. 



638 ADVERTISEMENTS. 

BETTWS- Y-CQED, NORTH WALES."" 
WATEELOO HOTEL. 

This old established heuse and fishing station has recently undergone ex- 
tensive alterations, and will be found to possess the quietude of a private 
residence. It is situated a few hundred yards from the Bettws-y-Coed rail- 
way station and village, and near Fairy Glen and Lleder Valley. 

N. B. Fishing tickets for all the surrounding rivers can be obtained at the 
bar, 

POSTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. 

MISSES WILLIAMS, Proprietresses. 

BETTWS-Y-COED, NORTH WALES. 



THE GWYDYR HOTEL. 



This hotel offers every advantage to families and tourists. 
It is situated near the railway station. Arrangements made 
for boarding on application. 



FISHING TICKETS TO BE HAD AT THE BAR. 



Posting in all its branches. 



E. FAICHNEY, 

Proprietor. 



GLASGOW. 

HANOVER g|$ HOTEL, 

HANOVER STREET, GEORGE SQUARE. 

MERTON R. COTES. 

"The editor of B radshaiv highly recommends this hotel for its superior 
arrangements, excellent management, and domestic comforts." — 7th Sept., 1871. 

" First-class hotel for families and gentlemen, replete with the comforts of 
home."— Murray's Scottish Tourist, 1871. 

" Quiet family hotel, combining excellence in every department. '—Black's 
Guide, 1871. 



ADIER TISEMENTS. 639 

CAERNARVON.-PRINCE OF WALES HOTEL. 

EXCELLENT ACCOMMODATION FOR VISITORS. 
Posting fares, is. per mile ; half fare back. For pair of horses, is. 6d. 

per mile. 

Distances of Places from Caernarvon (in miles).— Beddgelert, 13 

Bangor, 9 ; Beaumaris, 13; Capel Curig, 18; Clynnog, 10; Menai Bridge, 8 

Nevin, 26 ; Llanberis, 8 ; Upper Llanberis, 10; Pwllheli, 20 ; Portmadoc, 21 

Nantlle Vale, 9 ; Nant Mill, 6 ; Snowdon Range, 8 : Round Snowdon, 36. 

List of Prices. — Bed, is. 6d. to 2s. ; Breakfast, is. 6d. to 2s. ; Luncheon 
is. 6d. to 2s. ; Dinner, is. 6d. to 3s. ; Tea, is. 6d. to 2s. 
Refreshments ahvays on the Table. Public and Private Sitting Rooms. 
High Class Wines, viz.: Sherry, Port, Claret, Champagne, etc., etc. 
Dinners Daily, from 12 to 2 o'clock. 



BEDDGELERT. 



THE 



ROYAL A ND GOAT HOTEL. 

This establishment is beautifully situated in the midst of soma 
of the finest scenery in Wales, and is within a mile and a half of 
the Aberglaslyn Pass. It is in the hands of a new proprietor, 
Mr. Richard Humphrey, late of the Padarn Villa Hotel, Llan- 
beris; has undergone a most complete repair'; is newly and hand- 
somely refurnished ; and the intention is that a reputation for 
attention, comfort, and moderate charges shall be permanently 
earned. Coaches will ran during the season between Portmadoc, 
the Hotel, and Llanberis. 

It has an excellent coffee room, billiard room, smoking 
room, etc. 

Fishing on Lakes Gwynant, Bina&, and Gader. 

$5 X*s 



£& Xi& :p asp am $ @ sap ict wt srps sp 

BANGOR STREET, 
WITHIN FIVE MINUTES' WALK OF THE STATION 
Every accommodation for tourists, families, and commercial 
gentlemen, and the comforts of home, combined with moderate 
charges. 

GEOE&E OWEN, Proprietor 



640 AD VER TISEMENTS, 

CAERNARVON, NORTH WALES. 

THE EOYAL AID SPORTSMAN 
HOTEL, 

Opposite Chief Entrance to Caernarvon Castle* 



THE COFFEE BOOM IS THE LARGEST IN WALES. 



Posting in all JBraiacltes. 
An Omnibus mtrfs eveiy Train. 

Steamers from the back of the hotel across to Anglesea every 
hour. 

JOHN PUGH, Proprietor. 



CAERNARVON, NORTH WALES. 



ROYAL HOTEL (LATE UXBRIDGE ARMS), 

FIRST-CLASS FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL ESTABLISHMENT, 

Beautifully situated on the banks of the Menai Straits, and in close 
proximity to the railway station. 

EDWARD HUMPHREYS, proprietor. 



An omnibus will regularly attend the arrival of each train at the 
railway station. 

BILLIARDS IN DETACHED PREMISES. 

During the season a Four-horse Coach round Snowdon, after 
the arrival of the 9.25 a.m. train, vid Beddgelert, Vale of 
Gwynant, and the Pass of Llanberis, arriving at the hotel for 
dinner, and in time for the train for Llandudno, Ryhl, etc. 



"I 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 641 

C ONWAY . 

Very Central for Tourists in North Wales. 



THE CASTLE HOTEL. 

FIRST-CLASS FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL HOTEL. 
COMMODIOUS COFFEE EOOM. PEIVATE BOOMS. 

POSTING. BILLIARDS. 



N.B. — Passengers from Irelaad to England will find thisamo** conrenieftt 
place at which to break their journey. 

CHESTER. 



QUEEN 

RAILWAY HOTEL 

Stands in its own grounds, with croquet lawn, etc., 
is connected with the station by a covered way, and 
its porters have the exclusive privilege of meeting all 
trains on the platform^ and are in attendance day 
and night. Within a few minutes' walk of the 
Cathedral. 

SEASIDE, NORTH WALES. 



COLWYK BAY HOTHL, 

Near Conway. Three Minute? walk from Colwyn Station. 
Splendid Sea Terrace and Promenade. 

BEAUTIFUL WOODLAND WALKS. 

LARGE GENERAL COFFEE ROOM, A LADIES' COFFEE ROOM. 
AND A BILLIARD ROOM. 

Every Accommodation for Sea Bathing. 



642 ADVERTISEMENTS. 

COLWYN BAY, NORTH WALES. 
PWLL-Y-CROCHON HOTEL 

(LATE THE RESIDENCE OF LADY ERSKINE.) 

This first-class family hotel is most beautifully situated in its own finely- 
wooded park in Colwyn Bay, commanding splendid land and sea views, and 
miles of delightful walks in the adjacent woods. It is within ten minutes' walk 
of Colwy n Station, and a short drive of Conway and Llandudno. 

Sea-Bathing, Billiards, Posting. 

J. PORTER, PROPRIETOR. 

KILLARNEY, 



LAKES OF KILLARNEY. 



By Her Most Gracious Majesty's Special Permission. 

THE ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL, 

Patronized by H.R.H. the Prince of Wales; by H.R.H. 
Prince Arthur, on his visit to Ireland ; and by the Royal 
Families of France and Belgium, &c. 



This hotel is situated on the Lower Lake, close to the water's 
edge, within ten minutes' drive of the railway station, and a 
short distance from the far-famed Gap of Dunloe. It is lighted 
with gas, and has a postal telegraph office attached. 

TABLE D'HOTE DURING THE SEASON. 

Boarding terms from November to May. 

THE BILTON HOTEL, 

55 & 56, UPPKR SACKVILLE STREET, 

DUBLIN, 

has been enlarged and newly furnished. 

The Bilton has been established upwards of fifty years, and 
is largely patronised by the nobility, gentry, and officers of both 
services and their families, for whom it is specially adapted. 
All communications to be addressed to the Proprietor. 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 643 

COTTON'S IMPERIAL HOTEL, 

Pembroke Street. 

CORK, JRELAND. 

P. CU RRY, Prop rietor. 

This long-established and well-known hotel is conducted on the most 
approved and modern system. It possesses every requisite to promote the 
comfort and convenience of Tourists. The hotel contains 

One Hundred and Ten Bedrooms, 

Ball-room, Two Coffee-rooms, Commercial Room, a Drawing Room for 
Ladies and Families, several Suites of Private Apartments, Smoking and 
Billiard Rooms, Bath Rooms, etc., etc. 

A TABLE D'HOTE DAILY. 
The hotel adjoins the General Post-Office, as also the Commercial Build- 
ing, where merchants meet on 'change, and the earliest telegraphic news is 
received, at the reading room, to which visitors to the hotel have free ac- 
cess. It has been patronized within the last few years by all the different 
sovereigns and royal families of Europe visiting Ireland, — by all the suc- 
cessive Lords-Lieutenant, — and has, every season, 

THE BEST AMERICAN PATRONAGE. 

THE CHARGES WILL BE FOUND MOST MODERATE. 

The Imperial omnibuses attend the arrival and departure of each train. 

P. CURRY, late " Railway Hotel," Killarney. 

THE 

SHELBOURNE HOTEL, 

St. Stephen's Green, 
DUBLI N, IRE LAND. 

JURY AND COTTON, Proprietors. 

This splendid hotel, one of the finest in Europe, was reopened in 1867, 
after having been rebuilt from the foundation, and all modern improvements 
added, including FIRE-ESCAPE and PATENT ELEVATOR, giving 
easy access to upper rooms. 

It contains, on the ground floor, a magnificent Coffee Room, a Ladies' 
Coffee Room, Drawing Room, a Table d'Hote Room, and a General Reading 
Room. There are also a Smoking Room, a Billiard Room, a Hair-dressing 
Room, and a Telegraph Office. In addition to these there are six floors, 
containing 

One Hundred and Fifty Bedrooms, 

With Bath Rooms, and 24 first-class Sitting Rooms, arranged en suite for 
the convenience of families, whereby the privacy of home, with the complete- 
ness of a first-class establishment, is secured. 

The situation of the hotel is the most delightful in the city. Its aspect is 
southerly, and from each window a splendid view of the Dublin and Wicklow 
Mountains is obtained, whilst it has the advantage of possessing, for the use 
of its visitors, the large and beautifully laid out pleasure-grounds of the 
Green. As respects the railways, the situation is also more central than that 
of any other hotel in Dublin. 

TABLE D'HOTE DAILY. 
Every arrangement for tJie comfort of American Visitors. 



644 ADVERTISEMENTS. 

THE 

GRESHAM HOTEL, 

UPPER SACKVILLE STREET, 

DUBLIN. 



This magnificent establishment — admitted to be one of the 
best in Europe — patronized by the Imperial Family of France, 
and several of the reigning families of the Continent, ex-presi- 
dents of America, ambassadors, nobility, gentry, and the 
public from all parts of the world. It has been remodelled, 
elegantly furnished, and, with entire renovations, is now 

REPLETE WITH EVERY POSSIBLE MODERN 
IMPR O FEME NT. 

It contains 1 20 Bed Rooms, 19 magnificent Drawing Rooms 
and Sitting Rooms, with spacious and elegant Coffee Rooms for 
Ladies and Gentlemen ; with several suites of rooms particularly 
adapted for families. 

A SUPERB BILLIARD & SMOKING ROOM. 



The proprietors, being determined not only to maintain the 
world-wide reputation of The Gresham Hotel, but to meet 
the advance of public opinion respecting the charges of first-class 
hotels, have decided upon a reduction of their tariff, now in 
operation, and to which they invite the attention of the nobility, 
gentry, tourists, and families. 

The Leading American Journals take?i in. 

CONTINENTAL LANGUAGES SPOKEN. 



PROPRIETORS: 

THE GRESHAM HOTEL COMPANY (LIMITED). 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 645 

LOWER S HANNON AND KILKEE. 
MOORE'S HOTEL, KILEEE. 

Tourists purposing to visit the delightful scenery of the western coast 
are respectfully informed that this establishment has been fitted up in a 
style that w&l insure them all the accommodation and comfort of a city 
hotel. A magnificent Public Drawing Room for Ladies, Billiard Room, 
a*nd a Smoking Room. Every exertion is used by the proprietor to secure 
from each individual a confirmation of the character his house bears. 

Table d'Hote dtiririg the Season. Hotel Omnibus and Porter attend 

the Steamers. 

Kilkee has high recommendation as a route from Killarney to Connemara. 

The Midland Great Western Ticket, No. 6, is available from Broadstonc 

for Kilkee, Circular Tour (see Prospectus). 

A car to and from Kilkee to Lisdoonvarna, via Cliffs of Moher, during season. 

MANOE HOUSE HOTEL, 

LEAMINGTON. 

FOR FAMILIES AND GENTLEMEN, 

Beautiful]}^ situated in its own grounds, within three minutes' 
walk of North- Western and Great Western stations, and. one 
minute's walk from the post office. 

CHARGES VERY MODERATE. 

ELEGANT COFFEE BOOM FOR LADIES. 

Private Roo??is en suite. 

Spacious Billiard Room and Croquet Lawn, Archery Ground, 
Pleasure Boats, &c. 

Special attention has- been given to selection of the Wines, 
i&c, quality and purity of which are guaranteed. 

Terms on application. 

There is excellent spring water on the premises. 

WILLIAM WALSH, Manager. 

"THE MIDLAND" 

DINING ROOMS, 

51, and 53, LIME STREET, LIVERPOOL. 

Ladies and gentlemen, or commercial gentlemen travelling, 
will find the above rooms replete with every accommodation and 
attention. 

JOHN HIND, Proprietor. 



646 



AD VERTISEMENTS. 



LEAMINGTON -REGENT HOTEL. 

A [First-class family and Hunting Establishment 



o 



P3 






* : 1 ; . ; . : :"t& 






3i 



I i 







O 

H 






o 



Flys and Omnibus meet all the &reat Western and 

London and North- Western Trains. 

Posting, &c. 

L. BISHOP, Proprietor. 



AD VER TISEMENTS. 



647 



LEAMINGTON-CROWN HOTEL. 

For Families and Gentlemen. — Ladies' Coffee Room. 




Situated close to the railway stations. Two minutes' walk 
from the Post-office. 



648 AD VER TISEMENTS. 



LLANBERIS. 

THE DOLBADARN HOTEL AND POSTING 
HOUSE. 

This hotel has, since last season, been completely renovated and con- 
siderably enlarged, in view of adding to the comfort of those who may favour 
it with their patronage. Guides and ponies to Snowdon at Reduced Charges. 
Boats on the Lake, &c Coaches during the season to all parts of the 
Principality. R. ROBERTS, Proprietor. 

EOTAL VICTORIA HOTEL, 

LLANBEBIS. 



This hotel (which makes up more than sixty beds) is one of the best 
.modern -built houses in the kingdom, and is beautifully situated at the junc- 
tion of the two splendid lakes at the foot of Snowdon. 

The ruins of Dolbardarn Castle are close to the hotel, which is within 
view of Mr. Assheton Smith's far-famed slate quarries, and at the entrance 
to the beautiful Pass of Llanberis. 

The proprietor has spared no expense in rendering the hotel in every 
respect a first-class house— determined that it shall become celebrated for 
its comfort and accommodation, for the excellence of its wines, and for the 
attention and civility of its servants. 

An unusually large cellar of wines— Ports of the vintages of 1840, 1842, 
1844, 1847.. 

Posting in all its branches — respectable and experienced drivers. 

Well accustomed ponies, which, with ease and perfect safety, carry the 
visitors tb the very summit of Snowdon {the easiest and shortest ascent being 
from the Llanberis side of the mountain). The principal guide has a good 
knowledge of the plants indigenous and peculiar to Snowdon. 

The lakes and streams of Llanberis are celebrated for the sport they 
afford the angler. 

Boats on the lakes, for visitors to the hotel only, with trustworthy 
attendants. Divine service in English on Sundays. 

The MISSES WILLIAMS, Proprietresses. 



LLANBERIS. 
PADARN VILLA HOTEL. 

This hotel is under new management, has been reently beautified, and 
will be found one of the most comfortable and best-conducted houses in the 
Principality. A new billiard room added. Posting in all its branches. 
Coaches during the season to and from Bettws-y-Coed, Capel Curig, Bedd- 
gelert, and thence per rail to all parts of the kingdom. Ponies and guides 
to Snowdon at reduced charges. MRS. GRIFFITHS, Proprietress. 



649 



ird<m.W L 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 649 

LLANDUDNO. 



jl JcjL jK Jq.0 jc Aju MO X JEjCl 

Is the oldest established in the town ; it has been recently much enlarged 
by the addition of a Splendid Coffee Room and Ladies' Drawing Room. Its 
situation is elevated, and from its windows a fine view of the town, together 
with both Llandudno and Conway Bays, is obtained. Its furnishing will be 
found most complete. It is within two minutes' walk of the beach. 

ALL ATTENDANCE CHARGED IN THE BILL. 

LLANDUDNO. 



CAPACIOUS AND ELEGANT COFFEE-ROOM AND 
DRAWING-ROOM, WITH SEA-VIEW. 



TABLE D'HOTE DAILY. 



A COMMODIOUS AND COMFORTABLE BILLIARD-ROOM. 

Stabling, Coacli-liouse, and Loose Boxes* 

©mntfros meets tfje Status. 



Extract from John Bull, August 31st, 1 87 1. 
,c Of Welsh hotels, we may mention with especial favour. . . . While 
'the Adelphi Hotel' is far the best at Llandudno." — Notes for Tourists. 



ST. GEORGE'S HOTEL, LLANDUDNO. 

ISAIAH DAVIES, Proprietor. 
AN ELEGANT COFFEE ROOM FACING THE SEA. 



TABLE D'HOTE DAILY. 



Billiards. A New Croquet Ground. 

An Omnibus Meets Every Train. 



42 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 649 

LLANDUDNO. 



jlJEjLJG JB.0 x AJu JSlO XjKjLi 

Is the oldest established in the town ; it has been recently much enlarged 
by the addition of a Splendid Coffee Room and Ladies' Drawing Room. Its 
situation is elevated, and from its windows a fine view of the town, together 
with both Llandudno and Conway Bays, is obtained. Its furnishing will be 
found most complete. It is within two minutes' walk of the beach. 

ALL ATTENDANCE CHARGED IN THE BILL. 

LLA.NDXJI3NO. 



^^^i^^M,!, a w *,&■ Mi m a 

CAPACIOUS AND ELEGANT COFFEE-ROOM AND 
DRAWING-ROOM, WITH SEA-VIEW. 



TABLE D'HOTE DAILY. 



A COMMODIOUS AND COMFORTABLE BILLIARD-ROOM. 

Stabling*, Coacli-lioitse, and Loose Boxes. 

<©mtufms meets tfje Crams. 



Extract from John Bull, August 31st, 1 87 1. 
* c Of Welsh hotels, we may mention with especial favour. . . . While 
'the Adelphi Hotel' is far the best at Llandudno." — Notes for Tourists. 

ST. GEORGE'S HOTEL, LLANDUDNO. 

ISAIAH DAVIES, Proprietor. 
AN ELEGANT COFFEE ROOM FACING THE SEA. 



TABLE D'HOTE DAILY. 



Billiards. A New Croquet Ground. 

An Omnibus Meets Every Train. 



42 



650 ADVERTISEMENTS, 

THE DRUMMOND HOTEL, 

EUSTON TERMINUS, LONDON. 

FOR FAMILIES AKD GENTLEMEN. 

Reasonable and Comfortable, 
Conveniently situated for reaching all parts of London. 

A NIGHT PORTER. 

H. SIRKETT, Proprietor. 

VICTORIA HOTEL, 

MARGARET SQUARE, NEWRY. 

This hotel is situated in the principal street of the prosperous 
and busy borough town of Newry. It has been recently fitted 
up, and is admirably adapted to meet the requirements of Families 
and Commercial Gentlemen. 

M. McFEDRIES, Proprietress. 

Bus attends all Trains. Posting in all its Branches, 
THE 

ANTRIM ARMS HOTEL, 

PORTRUSH. 

The only first-class hotel facing the sea, with an uninterrupted 
view of the Atlantic. 

POSTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. 

T. E. LINDEN, Proprietor. 

OXFORD. 
ROEBUCK HOTEL. 

WILLIAM PARK, Proprietor. 

This first-class hotel having recently been enlarged, visitors 
to Oxford will find it replete with every comfort ; and from its 
situation it is most convenient for 

Families, Boating Parties, and Commercial Gentlemen. 
Ladies' Coffee Room. Billiards. 



AD VER TISEMENTS. 65 1 

PATTEN ARMS HOTEL, 

WAEKING-TON, 

FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL HOTEL, 

RAILWAY STATION. 
NIGHT PORTER. 

STRATFORD-ON-AVON. 

SHAKESPEABE HOTEL. 



This old established hotel is centrally situated, being next door to the 
Town Hall, a few minutes' walk from the house where Shakespeare was born, 
five doors from where he died, and within five minutes' walk from the grand 
old church where his remains lie buried. The hotel has recently been en- 
larged and re-decorated throughout, and contains every requisite for the 
comfort and accommodation of families and commercial gentlemen. Omni- 
buses and carriages bearing the name of the hotel meet all the trains. 

C. JUSTINS, Proprietor. 

WARWICK ARMS HOTEL, 

WARWICK. 



A FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. 

Five minutes' walk to the Castle. Central to all places of 

interest. Ladies' coffee room. 

POSTING, etc. 

LEONARD BALDWIN, Proprietor. 

M. COOK, 
WOOLPACE, 

FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL HOTEL, 

MARKET SQUARE, WARWICK. 



652 ADVERTISEMENTS. 

WILLIAM lHHl SUMNEES, 

48 & 50, OLD HALL STREET, LIVERPOOL, 

FOR THIRTY YEARS A PRACTICAL 

BREECH-LOADING GUN AND RIFLE 

MANUFACTURER 

Of every description, with Barrels bored to shoot medium or very- 
close and hard. 

Old Barrels can be re-bored on the new system, or new Barrels 
fitted. 

My Patent Wedge Fast Action Breech-Loader is the strongest 
in the world. Price from^io upwards. 

Ammunition of all kinds, wholesale and retail. 

JET ORNAMENTS, 



JOHN JACKSON, 
manufacturer of 3fet ©rnamentg 

To H.R.H. the Duchess of Cambridge, 

ETC., ETC., 

16, WESTBOROUGH STREET, 

SCARBOROUGH. 



A select assortment of Jet Ornaments in plain and ornamental designs 
always in stock, and a choice selection of fine Enamel Paintings, Cameos, 
Mosaics, Ammonites, Ivory, etc., set in Jet, as Brooches, Bracelets, etc 

A List of Prices Post Free. 

GOODS SENT SAFELY PACKED TO ALL PARTS. 

Established upwards of thirty yesai . 



AD VERTISEMENTS. 



653 



EOBEET JONES, 
GUN MANUFACTURER, 

60, DALE STREET, LIVERPOOL. 

Special manufacturer of fine quality SPORTING GUNS and 
RIFLES. 

Inventor and patentee of JONES'S PATENT CENTRAL- 
FIRE BREECH-LOADING GUNS. 

Prize Medals have been awarded at Several Exhibitions. 

HARRIS, JONES, & SHiNGLETON, 



Jmwnmtt 




Wa&oxs, 



319, OXFORD STREET, LONDON 

(10 doors West of Regent Circus), 

AND AT 60, NEW BOND STREET. 



Newest and Best Goods at the most Moderate Prices. 

Patterns and Forms of Self-Measurement sent to all parts of the World. 

CHUBB'S PATENT SAFES 

Fire and Thief-Resisting, and 

PATENT DETECTOR LOCKS. 

Illustrated Price Lists gratis and post free. 

CHUBB & SON, 

Makers to the Queen and the Bank of 
England^ 
57, St. Paul's Churchyard, London ; 28, 
Lord Street, Liverpool ; 68, Cross Street, 
Manchester ; Horseley Fields, Wolver- 
hampton ; and 80, St. Vincent Street, 
Glasgow. 




654 AD VERTISEMEh'TS. 

ESTABLISHED 1780. 



WILLIAMS AND POWELL, 
MANUFACTURERS OF FINE BREECH-LOADERS, 

Inventors and Sole Manufactttrers of the Patent 

11 SIMPLEX" BREECH-LOADER AND INDEPENDENT EXTRACTOR. 

This is the simplest and strongest action ; it consists of only 
two pieces, the lever and grip being one solid piece of steel. 
Can be use'd either with or without the spring. Pronounced the 
best Top Snap in the trade. 

The Independent Extractor does not weaken the 
Barrels, and can be removed at pleasure. It has great ad- 
vantages over all other extractors. 

Guns guaranteed to make patters of from 1 60 to 230 pellets 
of No. 6 shot at 40 yards in 30-inch circle. 

Drawings and illustrated catalogues on application. Address 
to office : 

SOUTH CASTLK STREET, LIVERPOOL. 



THE LEAMINGTON 

APNEUMATIC MINERAL WATERS. 

Under Royal Patronage. 

Kinmond and Co. beg to call the attention of dealers and consumers of 
mineral waters to the numerous spurious imitations of their manufactures 
which have been caused by the general excellence and purity of these waters, 
and to announce that all mineral waters made by them are now, and have 
been for some time, labelled "Kinmond and Co.," late "J. Daily and Co." 
(same as labels affixed), and none are genuine and are not made by the old 
firm of J. Daily and Co. which do not bear the names " Kinmond and Co.," 
ate "J. Daily and Co.," and our trade mark. 

LEAMINGTON SODA APNEUMATIC 

WATER. BRIGHTON SELTZER. 

Supplied to Her Majesty the Supplied to Her Majesty the 

Queen, 1858. Queen, 1858. 

H.R. H. the Prince of Wales, H. R. H. the Prince of Wales, 

1862. 1862. 

EINMOND & Co., (late J. DAILY & CO.), LEAIIMTON. 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 655 

IRON AND BRASS BEDSTEADS. 



PEYTON & TEDCASTLE 

Respectfully invite inspection of their extensive showrooms, 
which contain a stock of upwards of 

3,000 IRON AND BRASS BEDSTEADS. 

P. & T. also wish to direct attention to their display of 
BEDROOM FURNITURE, 

Consisting of suites in mahogany, walnut, oak, American ash, 
satinwood, polished pine, plain and inlaid, by far the largest 
variety to be seen in Ireland. 

Please note, — 

PEYTON AND TEDCASTLE, 

Bedstead Manufacturers, Cabinet Makers, & Upholsterers 
40, UPPER S ACKVILLE STR EET, DUBLIN. 

Manufactory— BORDESLEY WORKS, BIRMINGHAM. 

GREENSILL'S 

FAR-FAMED MONA BOUQUET. 

THE ORIGINAL AND ONLY GENUINE. 

The increasing popularity of this exquisite Perfume is a proof of 
its excellent quality. Introduced in 1852. 

T. S. GREENSILL, 78, Strand Street, Douglas, Isle of Man, 

bona-Jide Proprietor and Inventor. 



AGENTS. — London : J. Sanger and Son ; S. Maw, Son, and Thompson; 
Wm. Edwards ; F. Newbury and Sons ; Wm. Mather ; Barclay and Sons ; 
Whittaker and Grossmith. Liverpool : Evans, Sons, and Co. ; Clay, Dod, 
and Case ; R. Sumner and Co. ; Raimes and Co. Manchester : J. Wool- 
ley ; Jewsbury and Brown ; Lynch and Bateman. Edinburgh : Duncan 
and Flockhart ; Sang and Barker. Dublin : M 'Master, Hodgson, and Co. 
York: Sutcliffe and Headley ; Clark, Bleasdale, and Co. Thirsk : Wm. 
Foggitt. Bristol : Ferris and Co, Leeds : Goodall, Blackhouse, and Co. 

REGISTERED TRADE MARK — TOWER OF REFUGE. 



656 



ADVERTISEMENTS, 




JOSEPH GILLOTT'S 

CELEBRATED 

ST EEL PEN S. 

SOLD BY ALL DEALERS THROUGHOUT THE WORLD. 

Every Packet bears 
the fac simile 
Signature 




MR. E. BALL, 

DENTIST, 

4, BRIDGE STREET, SPRING GARDENS, 
BUXTON. 



78, GROSVENOR STREET, OXFORD STREET, 
MANCHESTER. 



AD VER TISEMENTS. 659 

HENRY GAZE k ~M 

Tourist Directors and Hotel Contractors. 



AGENTS FOR TOURIST TICKETS TO FRANCE, 

BELGIUM, HOLLAND, THE RHINE, 

SWITZERLAND, GERMANY, ITALY, AND ALL PARTS OF 

THE CONTINENT, 

By Short Sea Routes, vid Calais, Boulogne, and Ostend. 

TOURIST AGENTS FOR THE 

LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN RAILWAY. 

CIRCULAR TOURS FOR 

ENGLAND, IRELAND, SCOTLAND, AND WALES. 

SHAW'S CIRCULAR TOURS IN IRELAND. 



GAZE'S POPULAR TOURS 

TO PALESTINE, EGYPT, GREECE, ETC., AND DAHABEAH 

TRIPS UP THE NILE. 



Agents for all the principal Atlantic Steamship Companies, and 

for Tourist and General Travel in 

THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



GAZE'S HOTEL COUPONS FOR SELECT HOTELS IN 
EUROPE AND THE EAST. 



GAZE'S TOURIST GAZETTE, 2d., post free 3d., 
to be obtained of H. Gaze and Son, Tourist Office, 142, 
Strand, or at the following Branch Offices : — 

Liverpool. — Norton and Shaw, Parker Street. 

Manchester, Abel Heywood and Son, Oldham Street. 

Birmingham, Mr. J. Mallinson, New Street, Station. 

Rome, Mr. S. R. Forbes, 79 & 80, Piazza di Spagna. 

Paris, 30, Boulevard des Italiens. 

Brussels, Mr. Suffell, 8, Montagne de la Cour. 

Geneva, Mr. Natural, 12, Grand Quai. 

Jaffa, Mr. P. Blattner (Chief Eastern Office). 

Jerusalem, Mr. Hornstein, Mediterranean Hotel. 

Cairo, Mr. Friedmann, Hotel du Nil. 

Beyrout, Mr. Bassoul, Hotel d'Orient. 

And at New York, Auburn, and Toronto. 
Also at Messrs. Smith and Sons' Railway Bookstalls. 



660 * ADVERTISEMENTS. 

LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN RAILWAY 
OF ENGLAN D. 

ROYAL MAIL ROUTE. 

Passengers from the United States intending to visit Europe are informed that 
THROUGH TICKETS 

for the portion of the journey across England by the London and North-Western Rail- 
way (the direct route from Liverpool to London) are obtainable AT ANY OF THE OFFICES " 
OF THE TRANS-ATLANTIC STEAMSHIP COMPANIES IN NEW YORK AND BOSTON. 

LIVERPOOL TERMINUS. 

At Liverpool (one of the termini of the line) arrangements of a mostcomp ete character 
have been made for dealing with passengers to and from America, as well as their bag- 

fage. On arrival at Liverpool, carts will be found in readiness to convey passengers' 
aggage to the Lime Street station, the scale of charges in operation being regulated by 
a tariff laid down by the municipal authorities. The company have representatives 
appointed to meet the steam vessels on arrival at Liverpool, and to act on the instructions 
of the passengers with reference to the conveyance of their luggage. A magnificent 
hotel, "The North-Western," containing upwards of two hundred bedrooms, with 
spacious coffee room available for ladies and gentlemen, andjreplete with every accom- 
modation, adjoins this terminus. 

EXPRESS TRAINS. 
at frequent intervals, leave for London (which is reached in five hours), Manchester, 
Birmingham, and all parts of the kingdom. 

At Liverpool (Lime Street terminus) THROUGH TICKETS can be obtained for all 
parts of the United Kingdom, either for tours or single journeys. Passengers wishing 
to make arrangements for Continental journeys can obtain every information at Messrs. 
Gaze and Son's branch offices at the Lime Street station, and No. 4, Parker Street ; 
or at the head office in London (142, Strand). Passengers desiring to obtain informa- 
tion in Liverpool respecting the London and North-Western Railway, should apply 
to Mr. James Shaw, the district superintendent at Lime Street station. 
IRISH MAH. TO LONDON. 

The Cunard, Inman, and other lines of steamers put in at Queenstown, and by alighting 
at this place, American passengers can avail themselves of the Irish mail trains by the 
Great Southern and Western Railway to Dublin, and thence proceed to Kingstown, 
the port from which the magnificent steam vessels of the City of Dublin Company leave 
for Holyhead, where on landing the passengers can at once seat themselves in the 
splendidly-equipped carriages of the London and North-Western Company's celebrated 
Irish mail train for London. 

The mail train completes the journey from Holyhead to London (264 miles) in seven 
and a half hours, there being only three stoppages on the way. The engines are pro- 
vided with an apparatus by which they are enabled, as they travel, to take up water 
from horizontal troughs which are laid between the rails. Sleeping saloons are at- 
tached to the night mails both from and to London. 

KENILWORTH, WARWICK, STRATFORD ON-AVON. 

The Irish mail trains from Holyhead, and the express train from Liverpool, afford 
a rapid service to Birmingham. Kenilworth and Warwick are easily reached by the 
trains from New Street station, Birmingham. 

A new line of railway has been opened through from Stratford-on-Avon to London, 
•via Blisworth, by which quick trains are run daily. 

LONDON TERMINUS. 

The London terminus of the London and North-Western Railway is at Euston 
Square, and there are two hotels for the accommodation of families and gentlemen, 
immediately adjoining the station — the "Victoria," on the western side and the 
" Euston," on the eastern side of the entrance. 

The London and North-Western Railway Company have central offices in Manchester 
and Birmingham, with complete arrangements for through bookings. The company's 
superintendents will afford all information to visitors in those districts. For information 
respecting trains, fares, etc., apply to Mr. G. P. Neele, Superintendent of the Line, Euston 
station. 

The London and North-Western Ralway Company have also through booking ar 
rangements for parcels and goods traffic from Liverpool and Holyhead, to all the prin- 
cipal towns in the kingdom and on the Continent. Full particulars as to merchandise 
can be obtained of Mr. Thomas Kay, Chief Goods Manager, Euston station. 

GEORGE FINDLAY, Chief Traffic Manager. 



KEATING'S PERSIAN INSECT 
DESTROYING POWDER, 

As supplied to H.M. Govermnent Clothing Depot. 

This powder is quite harmless to animal life, but is unrivalled in destroying 
Fleas, Bugs. Flies, Cockroaches, Beetles, Gnats, Mosquitoes, Moths in furs, 
and every other species of Insect. Sportsmen will find this an invaluable 
remedy for destroying Fleas in their Dogs, as also Ladies for their Pet Dogs. 

Sold by all chemists and druggists in packets, is. ; tins, 2s. 6d. ; or is. packets, 
freebypost, for fourteen postage scamps, and 2s. 6d. on receipt of thirty-three, by 

THOMAS KEATING, Chemist, 
ST. PAUL'S CHURCHYARD, LONDON E.C. 

KEATIM'S WOEM TABLETS? 

A purely vegetable sweetmeat, both in appearance and taste, furnishing 
a most agreeable method of administering the onlv certain remedy for 
INTESTINAL or THREAD WORMS. It is a perfectly safe and mild 
preparation, and is especially adapted for children. 

Sold by all druggists in tins, is. ijd. and 2s. gd. each. Put up in small 
boxes " specially" for post, which will be forwarded on receipt of 15 stamps. 

THOMAS KEATING. St. Paul's Churchyard, London, E.C. 



SHAW'S TOUEISIS' PICTURESffdE 

GUIDE-BOOKS, 

REVISED YEARLY. 

Each Book contains Tzvclve Coloured Plates, numerous other 

Engravings, and one or more New Maps. 

Price One Shilling. 

London and its Environs. ] North Wales. 

Scarborough and Neighbour- ; Edinburgh and its Environs, 

hood. Inverness, Skye, &c. 

Buxton and Neighbourhood. Glasgow and the Clyde. 

Leamington and Neighbour- Abbotsford, Melross, &c. 

hood. The Trosachs, &c. 

Leeds and Neighbourhood. 
Liverpool and its Environs. 
Nottingham and its Environs 
Furness Abbey. 
The English Lakes. 
The Isle of Wight. 
The Isle of Man. 



Oban, Staffa, and Iona. 
Wieklow and Dublin. 
Limerick and the Shannon. 
Killarney, Cork, &c. 
Connemara — Galway to Sligo. 
Carlingford Bay, Newry, &c. 
Giant's Causeway and Belfast. 



WHITE AND SOUND TEETH. 

(Established by forty years' experience as the best preservative 
for the Teeth and Gums.) 




The original and only genuine is pre- 
pared solely by Jewsbury and Brown, 
Chemists, Manchester, and bears the 
signature and trade mark of the Pro- 
prietors. 



Retailed at is. 6d. and 2s. 6d. per Pot by the principal Per- 
fumers, Chemists, etc., throughout the United Kingdom, 
America, and the Colonies. Warranted to keep in any climate, 
and supplied by all the leading wholesale houses. [4-z. 



'It" I i i • I • i • I ' ' I ■ 



BUKROUGHES & WATTS, 




MANUFACTURERS OF 



Billiard Tables, from 55 Griiineas, 12ft. by 6ft., Baga- 
telles, Billiard lamps, and Gas-Fittings. 



%zttzz$> JTmurc^s, mtir S^ats xrf all bistxiftions* 
Superfine West of England Cloths, of all qualities and colours. 



200 Tables, in various designs and in every description of wood, on view ; 

500 in process of manufacture, from which customers may select. 

Timber for 2,coo in Stock. 



SOLE AGENTS FOR FULLER'S PATENT CUE CRAMP. 




Sole Contractor to Her Majesty's War Department and 
Admiralty. 

Shippers' Price List on Application. 



STEAM WORKS: 

DEAN STREET, HOLLEN STREET, AND RICHMOND 
BUILDINGS. 

OFFICES AND SHOW BOOMS: 

19, SOHO SQUARE, 
LONDON, 
and 87, MARKET STREET, Manchester. — 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



022 141 237 



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